(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best measuring & layout products

OK, your situation is perfect.

For starters, you want to do this right. There are 4 ways you should be monitering your progress.

Body Weight

For obvious reasons you'll want to measure and track your body weight. This scale is pretty much the gold standard for cost and precision, however if you already have a scale it's fine to stick with that. A problem many people have is weighing themselves compulsively, sometimes even 6 or 7 times per day. DON'T DO THIS, trust me. Weigh yourself...

• Once a week
  
  
• In the morning before consuming any drinks or food
  
  
• After you've evacuated your bowels
  
  Measurments
  
  Many people on a diet will measure their progress solely based on their body weight. Often times however the scale will get stuck. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, often times your body will go through a re-composition (less fat/more muscle), which won't be reflected on the scale, however you'll notice your clothes will be more loose fitting as muscle is denser than fat, thus you'll be smaller. Buy some sort of measuring tape and take measurements...
  
  
• once a week
  
  
• in the morning, before eating/drinking, after evacuating bowels
  
  
• Waist: Measure a half-inch above your belly button or at the smallest part of your waist
  
  
• Hips: Place tape measure around the biggest part of your hips
  
  
• Thighs: Measure around the biggest part of each thigh
  
  Pictures
  
  My biggest regret from my own weight loss journey is not taking pictures. Not only will it help motivate you, but posting your progress pics to r/keto will help inspire others as well. Take a picture once a week, and try to keep it as consistent as possible. Put the camera in the same place, stand in the same place, same lighting, only underwear etc.
  
  Bloodwork
  
  Go to your doctor for a blood test. INSIST on a VAP test for your cholesterol levels, not the standard (and innacurate given low trig levels) method. The frequency that you get your bloodwork rechecked is up to you, but 3 months into your keto diet seems like a good point to get it rechecked. Probably the most important marker of healthy cholesterol levels is your HDL:Triglyceride ratio (anything over 0.5 is great), and your total VLDL. Despite what you've heard, your total cholesterol level is not a useful indicator for heart health.
  
  Diet
  
  OK, now onto the good stuff, your diet. This is a great place to start. It's a sample one week meal plan made by one of r/keto's very own. Try to stay under 50g of net carbs per day (net carbs = total carbohydrate count minus fiber). For starters go through your entire pantry and refrigerator and get rid of anything you shouldn't be eating on the keto diet. Pasta, candy, chips, soda, bread etc etc. If you can, donate or give it away. If not, don't use that as a reason to keep it. Just throw it away. Trust me, you don't want temptation around, especially in the first few days.
  
  The general philosophy of r/keto (especially with overweight/obese individuals) is to eat when you're hungry, and stop when you're full. The majority of people find this is good enough, however if you find yourself not making any progress then by all means start counting calories.
  
  Now it's time to go shopping. Your diet is going to consist of meats, eggs, seafood, vegetables, low-carb dairy, nuts and seeds. Cooking oils to use are butter, olive oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, or any animal fat (lard, beef tallow...).
  
  Meats
  
  Anything goes. If you're trying to save money go for the cheaper and fattier cuts of chicken (thighs, drumsticks and wings can often be had for <$1.00 per pound).
  
  Eggs
  
  Don't worry about what you've heard with regard to eggs = cholesterol = heart attack. It's untrue, eat as many as you want, yolk included.
  
  Vegetables
  
  Potatoes and corn are way too starchy to include in a ketogenic diet. Tomatoes and carrots are a bit high on the sugar side, but are fine in moderation. Always include vegetables in every meal. They're awesome, and awesome for you.
  
  Low-carb dairy
  
  Heavy cream and cheese are legit. Greek yogurt is a bit carby but fine in moderation.
  
  Nuts and seeds
  
  Almonds are many ketoers favorite snacks. If you're craving something sweet, Emerald dark chocolate or cinnamon almonds are pretty awesome, and relatively low carb.
  
  MUST DO's
  
  Watch Fat Head for free on Hulu. This movie has been a life changer for many people including myself, even though Tom Naughton is a huge fucking dildo in my opinion.
  
  Read Something Awful's Guide to Ketosis. Your single most valuable resource for information on a ketogenic diet (excluding r/keto of course :P).
  
  Read r/keto FAQ
  
  And of course, if you ever have questions, don't hesitate to consult r/keto, we're here to help. Good luck!

i'm not a fan of buying kits or any sort of bargain tool sets. you get what you pay for and those i have found are usually not worth thier weight.

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start with the basics. for pliers and screwdrivers i'd go for Klein Tools. thier 11-in-1 screwdriver is usually all I needed when going to figure out a problem in a tenant's apt. they even make precision screwdrivers. a pair of linesman plier and needlenose are both super handy. an adjustable wrench is a great tool to have. always helpful to not have to go digging for the right size. pump pliers are prefect for any stuck valve or even to get your garden hose on and off. i'd also get a voltage tester. if you do anything with electrical wiring before you zap yourself you can test if the power is on or off.

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for a tape measure you can't go wrong with a classic Stanley. there's lots of options in this department. stanley also makes decent saws. for general purposes the SHarptooth will work. hack saws are for cutting any sort of metal. a general socket set is also good to have. if you're working with any sort of wood you'll need a good block plane. same goes for for chisels. if you're nailing on trim you'll need a nailset so you can hit the head of the nail and not the wood around it.

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there's lots of types of utility knives available too. Stanley still makes thier classic model. Dewalt recently released a snap-off blade knife that's all-metal. i have a half dozen already, they feel good in your hand and it's easy to get a new sharp edge. Milwaukee makes flip-open utility knifes that are pretty handy too. or you could go for a classic Olfa. that metal tail doubles as a paint can opener.

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a good pair of Aviation Snips will do a lot for you. they're great for cutting sheet metal, siding, metal fencing or even some plastics.

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i buy all my Squares and Levels from Empire Tools. start with a torpedo level. they're the most handy and most often used in my kits. from hanging paintings to leveling your stove to building a workbench.

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i've had lots of hammers, currently use Stiletto ones but a good Estwing will last you a lifetime. they also make the best small pry bar.

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good paintbrushes are easy to find. Wooster makes a few. just make sure you clean them well after each use and store them either in the original packaging or wrapped in newspaper so you don't ruin the bristles.

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clamps are always handy in and around the house and shop.

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a good caulk gun like this Tajima is last you a lifetime.

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if you're doing any sort of furniture making get yourself a kregjig. it's a pocket hole jig. worth every penny!

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want to get fancy? get a stud finder. ditch the battery ones and go for a Studpop. it finds the screws or nails already holding up your drywall.

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don't know if you're considering cordless power tools. personally, i'd get into the Milwaukee M12 line. you can start with a basic set and expand from there. it's one of the largest lines of 12V tools and they're as powerful if not more powerful than some 18V tools. i know a plumber who uses them exclusively because every power tool he needs is run of the same battery. you can always add tools or bigger capacity batteries as you need them later from their full line.

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let me know if you want more info or ideas or need help sourcing particular tools. my brother used to run a tool and hardware store so i've been looking for the best of the best for years.

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A few hundred dollars is plenty to get setup with a basic set of tools. With only a basic set of tools you can get a lot done. Additional tools will only improve the speed and make things a bit easier.

You'll need a few marking tools. A combo square, marking gauge, bevel gauge and marking knife should cover most of your marking and layout needs. Empire makes decent entry level combo squares. They certainly aren't the best but they're cheap and should be enough to get you started. If you wanted to get something a bit better Lee Valley makes nice double squares the a in the mid level price range. The ducks guts of marking tools is starrett. They're expensive but are buy it for life tools. For the marking gauge you can make your own if you want or buy one. Veritas make nice marking gauges for a reasonable price. Same goes for the marking knife. If you want to buy one Veritas also make an inexpensive one that works nice. For the bevel gauge just pick one up from a home center. They cost around $10 for a decent one.

From there you'll need some saws. A panel saw is good for cutting wood to rough size and backsaw is good for joinery. For an inexpensive panel saw these are fairly good. They aren't the best but the only other real option is to restore a vintage saw. If you did want to go for a vintage saw you should find plenty of info on that though google. Backsaws need to be a little bit better quality because they are used for finer work. The entry level into back saws are the Veritas backsaws. I'd recommend starting with a crosscut carcass saw which is good for general use.

A jack plane will allow you to flatten are square up your wood. The only good inexpensive option is to buy vintage. Fortunately there is a lot of guides and info on restoring vintage planes online. Do some research on finding and restoring vintage planes then find a No. 5 bench plane to restore. A decent No. 5 should cost you about $30-50.

A 1/4" and 1/2" chisels will cover your chiseling needs for getting started. Narex makes inexpensive but good quality chisels. I wouldn't but a set, jst get a 1/4" and 1/2" and then add sizes you want later. You'll need a mallet to use with the chisels. they're fairly easy to make but you can buy one if you want.

The last thing for a basic tool kit is something to drill holes with. A lot of hand tool users still opt for a cordless electric drill. If you want a unpowered hand tool option you need a brace + auger bits for larger holes and a eggbeater drill + twist bits for smaller holes. Again you'll need to buy vintage for these tools as no one makes them for a reasonable price anymore.

I moved from Boston to Athens GA and bought my first real (but still cheap) home. Its a great functional house but all the storage space had this very cheap wire shelving that absolutely sucks. The 120sf master closet was not functional at all. Neither was the laundry room. Or the 4 other bedroom closets. Or the pantry.

So I called California Closets and Inspired closets. Two national chains and the only providers of a service like this in Athens GA. They both had very slow response times and took more than 3 weeks to visit my home to do a walk through and then another 2 weeks to get a quote. Inspired never showed up.

They were PRICEY. California came with this proposal for $2,929.

Our goal was to get rid of our dressers in our master bedroom and have some drawers in the closet so we could fit all of our clothing in there. California let us know that an option with 16 drawers (8 for each of us) would be $5,000 or more plus tax. He also let me know the install team is backed up and it would take 6 weeks until they could get to the job. I didn't bother hassling him for a quote.

So I shopped around a bit and decided to buy some Easy Track systems from Build.com. I looked around my house and decided to not only build out my master closet but also my laundry room, pantry, three guest bedroom closets and basement bedroom closet.

I measured each closet and drew some designs on a notebook. This and this.

Then I made this list of the Easy Track systems I would need to order to accomplish all of this.

Then I compiled my order on Build.com. I called them and was able to get a 10% discount on the pricing. Here is my receipt.

$2,710.02 + $189.70 tax for a grand total of: $2,899.72

Then I borrowed my neighbors miter saw and got to work. First I ripped out the old wire shelving and then spackled the holes and repainted. This took about an hour. I drank 2 miller lites while doing this. If you end up starting a business I recommend skipping that step.

I drank two more miller lites and listened to this audiobook while I put together all 16 drawers with wood glue and a rubber mallet. This took about 3 hours total and was the hardest part of the entire process.

The next morning I hung the track system on the wall using my laser level (which is the most handy tool ever for a home owner) and started the install. This took a total of about 8 hours for the master closet. I got a lot faster on the second half. If I were doing it again I would probably get it done in closer to 5 hours.

This is the final product:

Master closet empty. Full. Laundry room. Pantry.

We cleaned out all three of our dressers and fit all of the things from the previous closet layout in with ease. Then we listed them on craigslist.

I went on and did the other 4 closets and easily multiplied my available storage space in this home by at least 8x overall.

How much would all this work have cost me if I hired it out? No telling. Maybe $8k? $10k? 15k? Not to mention the fact it would have taken about 10 weeks from the desire to get it done to actually getting it done.

I spent about 20 hours and $3k. I think I could do the next one in 10 hours total.

Are you a little handy and a fast learner? Set something up and start offering this service! Doing this while you have a full time job is the perfect way to start. More on that here.

Don’t like closet building? Check out this list and take your pick.

Here's what I would buy if I were equipping my garage workshop on a budget from scratch today:

• Table Saw - Unless you go for hand tools, this is the absolute core of your shop. Do not buy a new saw for less money than this under any circumstances, because it's false economy and you'll soon outgrow it. You may wish to buy a cheaper used model, in which case you should shop for a Craftsman 113 (aim for a belt drive rather than direct drive) on Craigslist. Spend up to $150 and plan to build or buy a better fence in the first year, which will bring you up to roughly the same capability as the new saws.
  
• Drill and Driver - You need a drill anyway. Everyone does. This is nothing fancy, but it's a tolerable set that should last a hobbyist quite a while, and both batteries and extra tools are cheap. Grab a set of drill bits and a few impact-rated screwdriver bits, or a fancy combo set of both.
  
• Miter Saw - Indispensable for cutting long pieces. You may eventually wish to get a big 12" sliding monstrosity to make wider pieces easier to work with, but you can also do that with a table saw. I suggest an inexpensive variant of the most basic type of miter saw to start, so you've got a good foundation to work from but don't have a ton of sunk cost if you upgrade later.
  
• Circular Saw - You'll use this for breaking down sheets of plywood bigger than your table saw can handle. You can also use it as a stand-in for the table saw for the first few projects. I'm recommending a lightweight cordless model for convenience during these simple, short tasks, but if you work with thick materials you may eventually want a powerful corded one as well - I've got a cordless and then a monstrous 15-lb worm drive saw for heavy duty use. If you just want to split the difference right off the bat and have one tool that's okay for everything and not great at anything, get a basic corded one.
  
• Jigsaw - For cutting curves and small notches. Make sure you get one with orbital motion, but other than that you can go pretty cheap on this because you won't use it that often. However, buy top-of-the-line blades; I really like Bosch blades.
  
• Router - This is a very capable middle-of-the-road router. You'll eventually want to add a plunge base, and might add a lightweight trim router to make edge profiles more easily. You can get accessories to expand on this, or you can eventually dedicate it to a router table and buy new for those other things - the variable speed motor on this is ideal for table use.
  
• Sander - This is the most general-purpose sort of sander, although it's a little on the aggressive side for final sanding. Just hand-sand where you need more finesse until you know what other sanders you might want.
  
• Combination Square - Use this for laying out cuts and holes and stuff.
  
• Speed Square - That blue book will show you tons of neat tricks with this square. Mostly you're going to use it as a short guide for the circular saw, though.
  
• Tape Measure
  
  Edit: Looks like that's about $1,100.00 depending on your local tax rate and how much of it you can slip past untaxed. That's steeper than I expected, but it's also an entire barebones shop for less money than the table saw I really want.

Woodpecker makes super nice stuff but they are hilariously expensive, I think a lot of it is because they tend to produce stuff in small production runs and don't really have the volume to keep prices down. Wood is gonna move over time and even a harbor freight caliper can measure more accurately than I can cut something anyway. Woodworking isn't machining, stuff doesn't have to be accurate to a thou.

Incra and Kreg have some marking tools that are very good and much more reasonably priced than woodpecker. I use this thing more than pretty much any other marking tool in the shop.

Amazon has nice straight edges that are guaranteed straight to within good tolerances. I have a couple and they are dead straight measured against a laser and my table saw.

Squares are easy to check, just use a known straight edge like your table saw, scribe a line, flip the square and if its off it will be obvious. I buy squares from harbor freight, check a few in the store to find one that is accurate. An expensive square or straight edge is gonna get screwed up eventually when I inevitably drop it or bang it on something, and with harbor freight I just take it back and get a new one.

Rockler has some house brand stuff like their wheel gauge that's pretty good.

The best marking knife I have owned is a chip carving knife I bought at a flea market. Speaking of which, flea markets, garage sales and swap meets are good places too, buy old quality stuff cheap and restore it.

I've done business with Plaza Japan in the past, they have a good selection and low prices; you'll pay for shipping so best or order more than just one product to take advantage of that.

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Amazon isn't bad, just check the prices compared to other stores. I've gotten great deals, and I've seen items posted at silly prices too. If you got prime then shipping is covered, although keep in mind that lots of the low price ship kits are shipped from Japan so the free shipping takes a while. Also read the reviews, I've had a couple of sellers not ship but Amazon had my back every time.

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As for tips for a beginner, get the right tools right off the bat, this tool kit is a good start, I like these brushes (although you might want to get an additional bigger one as well), and I use this brush cleaner. Get a paint pallet for mixing, remember some paints like Tamiya need thinner while ones like AK don't. For more on brushes watch this quick video. You'll likely want some modeling masking tape. If you'll be doing something with lots of decals like a Carrier get some Microset & Microsol plus decal/hobby scissors. You'll need some kind of filler putty, I like miliput. Later on you'll want to mess with things like washes (vallejo makes a great out of the bottle wash) simple washes can make you stuff suddenly look pro because of what it does to small details, if you're going to be doing ships with specific paint schemes look in to the AK sets they'll be 5-6 colors all as part of a theme (like Royal Navy ships).

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Most importantly you should start with something cheap. Your first few models will be learning experiences, so play around with those cheap $10 IJN destroyer kits till you get comfortable, use it to test painting techniques, then build that $50 HMS Ark Royal kit.

I think a Food processer is very important! You can use veggies in crazy ways if you can break them down. Even nuts can be used as a cookie base. It's a little more work but making homemade sauces can be so much healthy, especially if you can sneak in extra veggies!

Lets all sing Portion Control amen. And don't forget measuring cups and spoons, to control condiments, you could also just use the cups instead of the fancy portion measurer



I also recommend getting one of these under desk peddlers promise yourself you'll use it when watching T.V or doing reddit.

Pedometer a nifty affordable way to keep track of how much you are actually walking. I'm going to buy one just to make myself walk more!

Tape measure this is going to be surprisingly important. I've been trying to get back into shape since last September and I've only lost 15 pounds. I didn't keep track of my measurements, and I wish I had. My pants are almost falling off, but the proof of the numbers would be more of a morale booster. Easier to pass on the second helping of Chinease food if you KNOW you're making progress!

I wish you great luck! I think eating healthy is most important,but it feels so good, to just work the heck out,and be covered in sweat, and know you whooped that workouts ass! And another idea is to watch your department stores, I got my $200 stationary bike for $40 bucks,because it was a floor model,and was missing a little cover on one of the edges that touch the floor.

A good chisel to go along with her rock hammer is great for sampling

Also, a scratcher/scribe with a neodymium magnet on the end is incredibly useful for testing hardness and magnetics of a rock

I use a compact mineral identification guide a ton as well. There are many out there, but this one is the one I use - others may be better

Edit: And the most (imo) important part of fieldwork are the notes you take, so a waterproof field notebook is a must-have if she'll be mapping in a rainy environment. This one has geological charts and diagrams in it as well


Above are good lower priced items, but if you really want to go all-out, good boots and a rain jacket are indispensable , but they have to fit very well so she may be better off picking those out herself (at least that's the way I feel about them)

Hope this helps!

Here's a good square: https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101CB-Square-Layout-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504672358&sr=8-2&keywords=swanson+square

Black and Decker isn't currently known for being a great brand, but they have some great prices on cordless tools.
This black and decker cordless drill is a great bang for the low asking price: https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120C-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B005NNF0YU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504672428&sr=1-4&keywords=drill
The combo with the circular saw is pretty damn good. If you don't need to cut curves, I would pick a circular saw instead of a jigsaw.

Black and decker also sells a cordless jigsaw: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDCJS20B-Lithium-Jigsaw/dp/B019OF6T38/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673042&sr=1-2&keywords=black+and+decker+jigsaw

The Harbor freight aluminum bar clamps are fantastic for clamping larger pieces together, and the smaller steel bar clamps are also fantastic for everything else. You can go with pipe clamps, that will cost slightly more than the aluminum bar clamps, but they will work significantly better.

There is no such thing as an objectively ideal fit.

Fit is about balancing goals.

For someone in your situation (two bikes with different current setups) there are three major ways to start to explore this.

1 - Make the bikes identical, and start tweaking from there as you discover "problems" you want to try and address.

2 - Leave them different and compare and contrast.

3 - Use a camera with a timer or a friend to photograph you on the two bikes and start to look at current body position vs "goal" body position and evaluate your own fit.

I'm 110% with Andrewcooke that the way to start is a bunch of cheap stems. I have everything from 50 to 130 with a variety of angles at home. Cheap stems are $10 or less used. You only really need two seatposts (straight and setback) in your fit parts bin. (TBF, that's less and less true every year as 27.2 becomes less standard)

Using trig or this great stem comparison tool you can calculate the changes to stack and reach.

Using a $50 XY laser you can easily measure your own true stack and reach numbers, and transfer fits between bikes with different geometries.

The value of #3 is that a lot of fit (and why I have paid for a fit more than once) is about you, and the rotation of your hips, how you hold your arms, and how you position your body. Depending on hip rotation you can take a "good fit" and cause yourself pain.

And last, after all that aimless musing on my part, don't rush into this, there's nothing better than miles to help you decide on reach and stack.

Saddle height, that's a different issue, that's much more black and white.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, money and space are a lot less of a concern. Rather than throw out hypotheticals, I'll give you some examples of tools you can actually buy right now:

Panel saw. Yeah, 10 bucks. It's actually a nice saw too. The only issue is the teeth cannot be sharpened - but it's 10 bucks. Use this for breaking down big stock into smaller stock

Back Saw. Also 10 bucks. Same as above. Disposable but cheap and will last a long time (it's disposable because the teeth have been hardened). This is for precision cross cuts and cutting tenons.

Dovetail/fine joinery saw. 25 bucks plus a 3 dollar xx slim double taper saw file to make it not suck.

Now for some planes. These may seem kind of pricey for "broke" status, but these aren't POS-get-you-by planes. These are lifetime tools. To get something comparable new, you are looking at 150.00 to 300.00 a piece. You can get better deals by bidding on some planes, but these are all "buy it now"

Stanley #4. Needs some love but that's a good user for 30 bucks.

Stanley #5 for 42$

Stanley #7. 90 bucks.

Pick up a 4 dollar card scraper too.

Chisels

Narex $36. Use one of these and a block of wood to make yourself a router plane also.

Combination square 10 bucks.

A cordless drill of some sort and some bits (assuming you have one already)

70 bucks in 2x12's so you can make a knock down Nicholson style workbench which doesn't need vises. When you are done working, break it down and put it in the closet.

35 bucks for a pair of holdfasts from Gramercy

30 bucks worth of F style clamps from harbor freight will get you started there.

14 bucks to get sharp (not at all ideal but completely workable on a budget)

So for 410.00 or the price of a decent sander and miter saw, you can make literally anything in a small space with a small amount of localized dust. The trade off of course it time and labor.

Down the road you are definitely want to get some better saws, maybe some specialty planes, different chisels, some better measuring/marking equipment. But this will more than get you started.

Good on you for jumping into it! First of all you definitely want to thin down your paints. Here is a good video on how to do so by the best 40k painter in the world. Secondly, if you are having trouble with some of the straight line bits like on the chest, neck, and leg pads of the commander, painters tape can help you practice and keep things straight. It's not the most reliable tool so I wouldn't use it as a crutch but it will help as you get more experience. Tamiya masking tape is decent and used a lot in the model painting community. Lastly, I'm not sure what size brush you're using but it could be that getting a smaller one will help. Keeping a medium brush around is good for painting large sections but I'd recommend picking up something like an artificer brush and painting with just the very tip of it to work on smaller detailed sections.

The slab is about 3" thick throughout. I was told that it dried outside for almost 10 years before being planed and finished, but that was in the Philippines which has a much higher equilibrium moisture content. Also, it was moved from the Philippines to Nebraska. In February. A bit of a temperature change as well.

I bought this $20 moisture meter from amazon, and should be able to report the results this weekend: http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Meter%C2%AE-MD-812-Display-Digital-Moisture/dp/B008V6I840/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458875725&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+moisture+meter

I'm not around enough to do the job myself, and I trust a professional to do the job much better than I. I'll certainly be discussing the options with him though, so I'm very appreciative of your advice. I spoke to a few different people, some who recommended just epoxy and some butterfly inlays in addition to the epoxy. I only got one actual price quote, which was $1,500- that was just epoxy, but of course would include refinishing the table.

Not really. I have a Zircon, not sure of the model number but I'll get it to you when I get home. It's definitely the best one I've ever used, but as far as things go that's like being the smartest kid with Downs Syndrome. It's also super cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-Pro-SL-Deep-Scanning/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416506428&sr=1-5&keywords=zircon+stud+finder There's a pricier brand out there called Franklin that some people rave about but they're worthless for plaster.

Thanks for the reply! Using a studpop to locate studs.

So I can't screw anchors into that metal drywall corner correct?

And you're saying I can use toggle bolts wherever on the wall even if there isn't a stud? That's awesome. The shades are a bit heavy but I'm not going to be putting my weight on them. So if I can just put those anchors in anywhere I'd be pretty satisfied with that as a solution. Also as a sidenote, I also ordered this. There's nothing in here that can freely support the curtains and curtain rod right?

Someone just asked a similar question earlier this week. Their budget was only $20 but there are a ton of good ideas in that thread and you could just get him a few items.

The most popular item was the Incra Precision T-Rule and Incra has a quite a few other items that he may find useful (regular precision rule, bend rule, centering rule, protractor) and they all come in different sizes. If the 3" is too small, there is 6", 12" and 18". Just search Amazon for "Incra Rule" and you'll see them all. I've added the 3" T-Rule and Regular Precision Rule to my Xmas list. I've also added the 6" T-Rule and the protractor to my own "Wanted List" for a future purchase.

My recommendation in that thread was a woodworking calculator that computes within Feet and Inches down to 1/32. It does metric, areas, board feet, and more as well. Very useful tool that most people don't realize how much they would use.

And here's a link to the thread itself: http://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/2olpbx/best_woodworking_gift_for_under_15/

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

I agree with everyone else that since you already sense you have a problem with pelvic rotation that is something you should investigate and try to address. However, what you describe also sounds to me like a classic case of simply having the bars too low for your flexibility and/or a bad saddle angle.

You did not mention what angle do you have that SMP at? After a lifetime of trying different saddles to solve problems not too different from what you describe, I am pretty confident you will not find anything better than that Drakkon, unless it is a different SMP. However, these saddles are very sensitive to the fore-aft angle you are using and a bad angle could cause what you are describing. Before you try a different saddle, it might be worth it to get an angle finder like this and place it on a board or cookie sheet or anything you have that will span the saddle from front to back. Then follow the great advice on Steve Hogg's SMP page to see if you can get a better angle. I hope your seatpost allows you to make fine adjustments to the saddle angle.

I feel you pain, because I'm in the middle of doing this in my home. After some experimentation, I'm replacing. It just wasn't worth the effort, even though all my trim is red oak.

Back to your situation...

With a newly finished floor, you don't want to use any chemical stripper or heat near the new work and risk damaging it. That leaves mechanical stripping.

Sanding will take forever as latex will gum up the pads. Then you're replacing the pads often and may still damage the floor. Using a scraper will get the paint off, but still leaves additional sanding and refinishing to be done.

If you like the style of the base, it looks like 4 1/2" clam, that's pretty common and fairly inexpensive. Personally, I'd replace with something little better, maybe colonial base, or if your home is older, a three-piece base (cap, base, show) stained to match the floor.

To install molding, you need a miter saw, coping saw, nailer or hand nail it, and one of these for the outside corners, and knowledge on how to cope an inside corner..

You can make a huge variety of joints with just a few tools. This is close to what my toolset looked like when I cut my first dovetails.

Note: None of these are affiliate links. I don't get paid if you buy these.

$28 Dozuki "Z" saw
I prefer western style saws (like the Veritas saw /u/jbaird recommended), but you will be able to cut very nice joints with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-07029-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495827959&sr=8-2&keywords=japanese+saw+dovetail

$14 Empire combination square
https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-E280-Professional-Combination/dp/B000EU0ZB0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828208&sr=8-4&keywords=combination+square

$10 pocket knife for laying down lines:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-049-Pocket-Knife-Rotating/dp/B00002X201/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828775&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+knife

$24 marking gauge:
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-152M-Miniature-Rosewood-Mortice/dp/B001V9KOSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828829&sr=8-1&keywords=rosewood+gauge

$35 chisel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SG70L4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You could also get:

$49 DMT coarse sharpening stone. Only sharpening stone you need. Get a strop eventually.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WP1L0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$5 Stanley Coping saw. Will help you remove dovetail waste.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-106-8-Inch-Length-4-Inch/dp/B00009OYG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495829310&sr=8-1&keywords=coping+saw

Provided you're gonna buy lumber that's already prepped, you should be good to go with the above. I'd suggest building things rather than 'practicing joinery'. You'll get plenty of joinery practice along the way :)

Here are some suggestions of good brands but substitute with lesser brand as you see fitted:

• USA made 17 oz hammer: [Vaughan] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vaughan-Stealth-17-oz-Solid-Steel-Milled-Face-Rip-Hammer-15-5-in-steel-handle-and-magnetic-nail-start-RS17ML/206936857)
  
• USA made Nubla deadblow: 2lbs
  
• Germany made [7] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-7-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-180/100668967) and [10] ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-10-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-250/100668982) in knipex cobra
  
• ratcheting screwdriver: wera [Megapro] (https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-211R2C36RD-13-Ratcheting-Driver/dp/B004VJY1EC/), Williams ...
  
• pry bars: [USA made craftsman] (https://m.sears.com/Craftsman-25-IN.-PRY-BAR-WITH-STRIKE-CAP/p-00943383000P), [USA vaughan] (https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-B215-15-Inch-Original-SuperBar/dp/B00002N5VN/ref=asc_df_B00002N5VN/)
  
• Japan made [Engineer scissors] (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PH-55-Tetsuwan-Scissors-GT/dp/B005QTRJA4/)
  
• torpedo level, 24in, 48in: USA made or [Stabila] ( https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/stabila-1889-4pc-level-set)
  
• metric/sae wrenches or ratcheting: [tekton] (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Combination-Wrench-Keeper-Metric/dp/B00OXUPMGK/), gearwrench or better USA made SK
  
• 6 in squares: [swanson] (https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-Tool-S0101CB-Square-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/)
  
• auto lock 25ft tape measure: [Milwaukee] ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-25-ft-Compact-Auto-Lock-Tape-Measure-48-22-6825/304616955), [fatmax] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-FATMAX-25-ft-x-1-1-4-in-Auto-Lock-Tape-Measure-FMHT33338L/204624581)
  
• punches: [dasco] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-Pin-Punch-Set-6-Piece-22/100155966)
  
• chisel
  
• clamps: bessey bar clamps, quick clamps like [irwin] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-4-Pack-Assorted-Mini-One-Handed-Bar-Clamp/1000914800) , [kreg clamps] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-3-in-Wood-Project-Clamp-3-in-Handscrew-Clamp/1000105667)
  
• foldable saw horses like [these] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-2-Pack-27-25-in-W-x-32-in-H-Plastic-Saw-Horse-1000-lbs-Capacity/50333339)
  
  power tool, cordless is preferred. Some brands to consider, makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Bosch:
  
  
• drill driver/impact
  
• circular saw
  
• jig saw
  
• Reciprocating saw
  
• Oscillating multi tool
  
• random orbit sander
  
• 1/4 and /or 1/2 in router

Hi there! This is pretty much what you would need:

1. Dovetail Saw
   
2. ½” & ¼” Bevel Edge Chisels
   
3. Mallet
   
4. Fret Saw (optional but highly recommended)
   
5. Hand Plane (Smoother, Jointer, Fore, or Block Plane)
   
6. 1 Pair Dividers
   
7. Marking Knife (this can be an exacto knife or specialized dovetail marking knife)
   
8. Dovetail Marker
   
9. Combination Square
   
10. Some kind of workbench or surface to work on.
    
11. Glue (I recommend Old Brown Glue)
    
12. Shooting Board
    
13. Some way to break down your stock, either panel saws/tablesaw/bandsaw.
    
    If you would like some resources for instruction I would check out Rob Cosman's or David Barron's dvd's. If you'd like any more help please don't hesitate to ask!

There will be people that disagree, because to some extent it is about preference, and it also depends on what, exactly you do. Having said that, I'll give you a run down of stuff I either had when I started, or use frequently, or serves multiple purposes, etc.

• Combination square for measuring and marking right angles
  
• Tape measure
  
• Typical wood saw for big, sloppy cutting
  
• Better saw for precise cutting. I like japanese ryoba or type of backsaw
  
• Basic set of wood chisels. Nothing crazy is needed to start, just know you might be sharpening more often until you get better ones
  
• Personally, it really changed my game when I got an old Stanley No. 4 hand plane off ebay and fixed it up. This you might want to wait for and it depends if you want to get into stuff where you'll use it.
  
• Drill.
  
• Electric sander. If it's to expensive to start get one of those sanding blocks where you tuck in the sand paper.
  
• Clamps. You might start with bar clamps from harbor freight. The plastic quick clamps from there will break. The bar clamps aren't too bad. If you can buy better clamps to start, definitely do it, but you can get by on those.
  
• wood glue
  
• 2 part epoxy... when my first joints didn't fit... this helped!
  
• drawer liner. I put it under stuff so it doesn't slip.
  
• hammer and mallet
  
  Other than that, it really depends on what you want to do. I left out power tools except for a drill because when I started I couldn't even afford that and used my dad's. I never like when people give starter lists that include table saws and stuff, because if I had seen that on a woodworking starter list I would have been turned away. You can start with cheap stuff and make good pieces, it just takes a little longer and a lot more elbow grease.

I'm assuming you have drywall with wood studs. All you really need is the wall mount, a drill, and a stud finder. A pencil would be useful aswell for marking stuff out.

You'll need to locate your wall studs. You can do this using a basic stud finder. Use the stud finder to locate and mark a stud close to where you want the screen to be. You might not get it exactly where you want it because studs are only placed every so often, 16" on center is common. Then after your sure a stud is there (I always knock on the wall and listen to double check) you can start to mount it. You'll need to buy the actual mount. I use this basic wall mount for one of my screens and it is quite adjustable. Align the wall mount along the stud to where you want it then drill pilot holes for the screws. After you drill the pilot holes just screw the mount in. Try pulling on it a bit just to make sure its stable and secured into the stud. Then (if you bought the mount I linked) you just screw the plate into the back of your monitor and slide it in. If all goes well it should be mounted solidly to the wall.

Three things he's missing here from a 30+ year modelling/gaming vet:

Using a push pin is great...on 28mm plastics. If you're dealing with metals, that pin isn't going to last long. I use a Tungsten Carbide Scriber to mark my pilot holes, (this does other duties with scratchbulding plasticard)

Using paperclips is ok if you're doing this casually. I've found 1/32" (and other sizes) brass rod is less hassle as it's A: thinner diameter B: No unfolding and straightening, and C: puts less wear and tear on cutters (you can use your sprue trimmers with no ill effect). Also works great as scratch-built hand holds on tanks, antennae, arrow shafts, etc.

He missed a great oppurtunity to share the ancient art of locating the opposing hole with a bit of blu-tak (poster putty). Comes in handy particularly when the first hole isn't centered, or you're pinning to an area that isn't obvious where the mating hole goes (uneven surface, etc)

• Drill hole A as he did on the thunderhammer bearing side.
  
  
• Stick a small ball of blu-tak on the opposing side B where you want to drill the mating hole.
  
  
• Spit on the back of your hand, and apply side A to spit.
  
  
• Apply side A to side B exactly where you want it with force, then slowly remove side A. A casting of side A hole will be on side B.
  
  
• Drill into side B exactly where the casting is, enough to start the hole. Remove blu-tak, finish drilling. Voila.

Not needing to lock down after moving makes squareness much easier to achieve.

I just bought this and I love it. highly recommend.

Here's what I would personally recommend for a decent minimum starter set, assuming you're just looking for general homeowner/handywork tools:

• 5-in-1 screwdriver
  
• 16 oz. claw hammer
  
• 6 in. adjustable wrench
  
• Measuring tape
  
• Allen wrenches
  
• Pliers
  
  Those are all solid quality tools that I've personally used in the past. There's obviously tons of other stuff you'll need along the way if you're into fixing things but that's a great starting point.

I was a telecom installer/electrician for many years, and none of that "we'll just run the phone wire under the carpet/staple along the baseboard" nonsense. My boss was insistent about putting wire inside walls. Over the years we'd tried just about every stud finder available. The classic Zircon is about as good as they get... but that's not saying much. They work fine with drywall of uniform thickness, but if you're looking at older mortar/plaster on lathe or button-board walls, forget it. Believe it or not, the stud finder we used most often was a 10 inch piece of stainless steel spring/piano wire, .030" diameter I think, though maybe larger. Basically the smallest we could securely grip with the cordless drill chuck. Clip and file the end into a roughly symmetrical spear point, and run it into the wall where you intend to install a box or MPLS ring, or where you intend to anchor something to a stud. Most studs are 16" on center, so you can guesstimate a likely starting point by measuring from the corner of the room. We used that plus the Zircon to choose our starting point. If you're installing wire and hit a void, you start sawing a hole for your box/MPLS. If you hit wood and want to anchor, drill again 1/2" in either direction to find the stud center and anchor. Now, if you hit a stud and want empty wall, or hit empty wall and want a stud, start drilling more holes horizontally, about every 3/4" until you find what you want. The advantage of drilling with thin piano wire is that it's trivially easy to fill the tiny holes.

I really like this finder, it's cheap, easy to use, and accurate. Just make sure you use a fresh 9v Zircon StudSensor Pro SL Edge Finder Deep-Scanning Stud Finder with SpotLite Pointing System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KwDjDbCSJY23J

Wow, prices have really come down since I last looked. I was looking at a few different Bosch models, and they all seemed good. Something like this

Definitely do not use White Out lol...you want White Testors Acrylic Plastic Model Paint and I would recommend using thin masking tape to help you from getting paint where you don’t want it to go - when you’re done, use Mod Podge to seal the parts you painted:

Paint

Masking Tape

Mod Podge

Not HF but I bought this $38 self leveling laser level from Amazon and it's actually been working well -- always tested true level with my bubble levels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N33JJ3R/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some good suggestions, but this ruler would be my pick. It is constantly being used when doing precision work. Always in my pocket. Got my dad who is an old school woodworker one, and he loved it.

http://www.amazon.com/INCRA-TINYT03-Precision-T-Rule-3-Inch/dp/B002GU68LM/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

OMG she is sooooo cute! This pinterest may have some cool ideas for you. I think you could get away with putting shelves up, even in a rental. You'd just need to make sure you have one of these to find the studs!

https://www.amazon.com/TR-Industrial-Collapsible-Measuring-Yellow/dp/B01018D7MS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549555576&sr=8-3&keywords=rolling+measurement+wheel I just use one of these cheap and easy you just have to walk to make it work and super accurate.

Honestly I've tried a bunch of different stud finders with bad results like you indicated. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY a few years back and have never missed a stud for anchoring or cutting in new electrical boxes.
The magnet method works good as well. My pops used to use it with a little device like this one https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Stanley-47-400-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B002YCSIJC

• Just buy some pre-made patch cables you can get them in all sorts of pretty colors for $12.99 for 150 foot cable on Amazon.
  
  
• Buy one of these: 3-foot long wood auger bit
  http://www.westwayelectricsupply.com/irwin-1890751-flexible-installer-wood-auger-tip-1-2-x-36.html
  
  
• And one of these: push-pull rod kit and a fish-tape:
  http://www.pushpullrods.com/
  http://www.techtoolsupply.com/Wire-Installation-Tools-Push-Pull-Rods-Glow-Rods-s/530.htm
  
  
• and of course with a drywall saw, you can cheat by cutting holes in the drywall then putting some of these in places like inside closet walls...
  http://www.lowvoltagecables.com/blank-wall-plate-white.html?
  
  http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7013
  
  www.all-wall.com/Categories/USG-Sheetrock-Drywall-Tools/Sheetrock-Tools-Jab-Saw.html?
  
  
• Also some of these tools are handy:
  
  
  Stud finder with AC wire locator
  https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY
  
  
• non-contact voltage detector
  http://www.jensentools.com/fluke-1ac-a1-ii-non-contact-voltage-detector/p/433-973
  
  I've installed dozens of cameras, and many ethernet jacks, both for myself and for some friends and even a couple of business installs. Its not difficult, you just need to figure out where to drill.
  
  
  
  
  
  

At a pop-up stall, it is a gimmick but not a scam. It is a practical tool when used with other measurements. No good doc will take the scan done at the pop-up and use it to actually evaluate their patient. They may do a re-scan in the office (and probably have a 20 second bit on why the in office scan is more accurate if there is a noticeable difference).

The gray box is likely a Tytron scanner.

The short version explanation is that it has two temperature sensing probes that measure the skin temperature on either side of the spine. While the specific temperature of the skin is not a major factor in the evaluation, the difference between the two sides is.

Without getting super technical, significant (+/- 2º to 5ºF) differences in lateral temperature are an indicator of a problem area of the spine. It does not prescribe what adjustment may be necessary, but the magnitude of temperature difference post-adjustment should be smaller.

The scanner has two small wheels that roll along the back or neck to keep track of distance traveled (Think a mini [one of these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01018D7MS/)) and keeps a constant scan of temperature. The difference can be graphed in a line that shows Left, Difference, Right or as shown on that pop-up display with a bar chart showing scales of difference. The larger the temperature difference, the bigger the bar.

So in short: It's a good tool to assist in confirming an evaluation but it is not a specific diagnostic tool. It also happens to be a good non-invasive marketing tool.

Yes, A nail or (scribe)[http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-88CM-Tungsten-Carbide/dp/B00004T7S1/] would be your best bet for very long term, not scrubbing off, food-safe method for marking metal (and maybe glass)

FYI, Amazon has cheap inclinometers. You can get a pretty good estimate from a $10 construction inclinometer.

Thanks!

It's just a laser level. I picked it up when started this project. I used it for framing, tile, cutting in the niche and setting my shower doors plum. Great tool. http://amzn.com/B00NQUJ2AK

I've had studfinders like yours and had the the same issues. I recently bought this one and it works really well. Also lights up multiple lines, which makes it easy to find the center.

ProSensor T6 Professional Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LF2BRY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I've had good luck with this $20 meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008V6I840/

/u/whitetiger and /u/skinslip1 for helping me get through hours of solidworks on plug.dj. All of me, loves all of you.

http://amzn.com/B000ETUNEU , because I needed one in the shop today.

There's a black on on Amazon for $15. It's not "contractor grad", but it's probably ok. Same brand. The red one is on Amazon, as well.

While engineer squares are usually the most accurate, and they're excellent for tool setup, they lack the functionality that a good combo square has.

If you need something that you know is square, find one of those plastic drafting triangles. Since they're cast in acrylic, they're guaranteed accurate, and they wont bend out of square (instead they'll just crack or shatter). Seems everybody I know has one left over from a geometry or drafting course.

For those looking.


QUICKDRAW DIY Self Marking 25' Foot Tape Measure - 1st Measuring Tape with a Built in Pencil - Best Steel Tape - Power Locking Tape Ruler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P14T90W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lvhDbQ1XHBJ2

Here
QUICKDRAW DIY Self Marking 25' Foot Tape Measure - 1st Measuring Tape with a Built in Pencil - Best Steel Tape - Power Locking Tape Ruler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P14T90W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F-AmDb3FY3S46

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N33JJ3R/

$32 USD. Works great.

Oh ya definitely mildew. And it a lot less than I thought it would be. It'll most likely come off with just a good scrubbing. I highly doubt you have any other moisture problems. But if you want to be extra sure we use a much more expensive version of this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008V6I840/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l0KIzbSB2HS4T

Is the bathroom on the top floor of the house?

Is there an exhaust fan in the bathroom? If so and it's a older one that's not quite up to snuff anymore I would suggest replacing it or at least cleaning it out.

I used to rent a 95 year old home with plaster and lath. The studpop was a godsend.

Studpop Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRI5TMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJ3xzbJ5WAY5Q

Yeah they do have smaller cheaper ones that work the same like this.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY

Plenty big enough to fully cover a stud. Actually I don't know why the longer ones need to be so long.

If you want to do it yourself, you would need an angle finder.

Check where you're parked with the angle finder first. Make sure you account for that when setting the caster. If your driveway is at +2 degrees angle, then you should add 2 degrees to where you should be at for caster.

Place the angle finder on top of your ball joint if you can, or the flat section of your C knuckle if you have to. I'm not too familiar with ZJs, but I found this real quick.
> I also found the factory specs in the tsb about the offset ball joints. It says ideal target is +6.75 range between +6 to +7.5. Max difference between right and left is .5

You may need to be closer to 6.0 with a 4.5" lift so your pinion angle isn't too bad. If it causes vibrations you may need to go even lower on caster, which of course would cause more wandering. The only remedy for correct caster and pinion angle is to cut of the C's and have them welded back on to point the pinion towards the transfer case with the correct caster.

I have this moisture meter. It's done well measuring some lumber that is quite wet (~22%), but this is the first time I've bought lumber from an actual lumber mill that kiln dries their wood. The guy at the mill says they dry to 7%. I can't get a reading above 1% at any spot in the wood and at any depth.

To add, the boards milled well through the jointer and the planer with no tear out. However, the resulting sawdust was quite fine and the planer chips were a little brittle.

I would strongly suggest against most of those tools, especially that hand plane.

1. Get a japanese hand saw. A little more pricy, 100x better performance.
   
   I'm sure the stone is fine but I can't vouch for it. I'd rather recommend wet sandpaper w/ rough to fine grits. And some compound for stropping. Initially, you can strop it on anything -- even cardboard.
   
   That square is dumb as f and useless as f. Unless you're doing framing or construction. Yes, I bought one when I started out. I still kept it as an example of a stupid purchase. Get this instead or something similar. It won't be as accurate as a starrett, obviously, but more than enough for 99% of woodworking.
   
   Coping saw...eh, buy whatever you want. They're decent and better ones cost significantly more.
   
   Chisels....those chisels suck. They're made out of butter instead of steel. Get these instead.
   
   As for hand plane, buy a No4 pre WWII stanley from ebay or you'll have to fork over some serious cash to get a lie nielsen or a veritas. Don't ever touch the new stanley shit.
   
   So...sandpaper (buy them from wherever),
   Stropping: $12ish
   narex chisels $38 ish
   empire square $11 ish
   japanese handsaw $27 ish
   Coping saw: $6 ish
   
   About $94. Leaves you with a couple of bucks for sandpaper--maybe. Get em from home depot/lowes to get started. Be sure to finish off all cutting edge with stropping on the compound.
   

Starett miter protractor, if he does finish work: Starrett 505P-7 Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y2kXBb0GR5ZSV

Bosch laser measure is a good option and there are several versions under $100.

This recent invention could help you finally determine your accurate height: you're welcome

Some great tips already, but go through and calibrate all of your tools to make sure they are actually cutting at 90 degrees. Also, I know it's expensive, but buying a quality square is worth every penny. It alone has removed much frustration. I recommend the Starrett Combination Square.

If you do miter the corners, get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505P-7-Miter-Saw-Protractor/dp/B003CJSQ4S

It helps find the real angle of the corner and directly translates it into miter saw setting.

True.
Though on obtuse inside angles I miter them and preassemble (if it's not a really long length) instead of coping. Use a gauge like this

Coping allows for faster installation because it can compensate for about 3 degrees of difference and still be tight as well there's only one cut to get accurate instead of two, whereas miters take two accurate cuts.

The back cut on the cope of an obtuse cope can get very extreme and really hard to do well.

If we're going down the semi-DIY route, one of these can make life so much simpler when fixing things to walls and ceilings.

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405644578&sr=8-3&keywords=stud+detector

And also help you avoid hitting wires or pipes. Worth every penny imo.

I have this magnetic stud finder that works really well.

Edit: It was available for purchase when I first made my post and now it says it's unavailable.

I had the Wixey digital angle meter that didn't last two months. Figured it'd be more versatile than the digital angle gauge.

Ended up buying a Starrett miter saw protractor - has the added bonus of splitting angles for inside and outside miter cuts for me: https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505P-7-Miter-Saw-Protractor/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518025692&sr=8-1&keywords=starrett+angle

Those are nice but this is a far more accurate caliper

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002X2GQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495863708&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tape+measure&dpPl=1&dpID=41RWEfPSKQL&ref=plSrch


It's used for precision inspection by real machinists!

It looks a little bit like a surveyor's measuring wheel. But I'm not sure why the second handle.

Found on amazon. Some not-so-great reviews ... https://www.amazon.com/QUICKDRAW-Self-Marking-Foot-Measure/dp/B00P14T90W/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3E2TZDUEL71Y6&keywords=quickdraw+measuring+tape&qid=1556038526&s=gateway&sprefix=Quickdraw%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-1#customerReviews

Franklin sensors are my personal preference.

Just hold the button and slide across the wall.
No other stud finder works as reliably or are as easy to use.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504561130&sr=1-8&keywords=stud+finder

I’ve got pencils and that very same tape measure.

Looking at this hammer: Stanley STHT51246 20-Ounce Steel Hammer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B5A1VVG/

And this speed square (figure the combination square may come in handy later, only a couple dollars extra): Swanson Tool S0101CB Speed Square Layout Tool with Blue Book and Combination Square Value Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SOVRPXW/

And tool belt:
Bucket Boss 50200 Builders Rig https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK4TZ2E/

And cats paw: Estwing Nail Puller - 12" Double-Ended Pry Bar with Straight & Wedge Claw End - DEP12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/

See any problem with these for starting off?

Here is the desktop version of your link

You're right, there are even "angle finders" that will automatically divide the angle for you.

Starrett 505P-7 Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_J3r-zbR08SVMS

Or you could just buy a real, self-leveling one for about $35.
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-SC-L01-50-Self-Leveling-Horizontal-Cross-Line/dp/B01N33JJ3R/ref=sxin_2_b2b_sx_ftd_qd?keywords=self+leveling+laser&pd_rd_i=B01N33JJ3R&pd_rd_r=ff7da6a5-c4b5-466e-932f-f1151ecae3d6&pd_rd_w=IgbHy&pd_rd_wg=HUoOl&pf_rd_p=96f4a28d-bbd4-4b1b-b36b-32fdf628e1b1&pf_rd_r=C1XHJF5E4S9Y5W3T90HB&qid=1568934347&sprefix=self+leveling+

Occer 12x25 Compact Binoculars... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N33JJ3R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Link says binoculars but it’s the level.

You could use a tape wheel:
https://www.amazon.com/TR-Industrial-Collapsible-Measuring-Yellow/dp/B01018D7MS

Do NOT buy this. It comes with 5 drills/drivers/impacts. Here is what you need:




http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT314W-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-Piece/dp/B005C95E2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007466&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+drill+driver+combo+kit




http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007519&sr=1-2&keywords=compound+miter+saw




http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC75TRS-7-5-Amp-Reciprocating/dp/B004V327PS/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007539&sr=1-9&keywords=sawzall





http://www.amazon.com/WEN-61720-4-Inch-2-Inch-18-Gauge/dp/B000EJW1ZY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007628&sr=1-1&keywords=brad+nailer





http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCFP02003-3-5-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B00BMUGQNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007761&sr=1-1&keywords=air+compressor




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-100-10-Piece-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B0000950PN/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007815&sr=1-4&keywords=screwdriver+set




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-51-624-20-Ounce-Fiberglass-Hammer/dp/B000VSSG2K/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007879&sr=1-3&keywords=hammer+set




http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits




http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-425-Powerlock-25-Foot-Measuring/dp/B00002X2GQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457008034&sr=1-1&keywords=tapemeasure

Stud finder dude.

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-Pro-SL-Deep-Scanning/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=sr_1_7?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1414307284&sr=1-7&keywords=stud+finder

Tungsten carbide tipped scribe. Similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-88CM-Tungsten-Carbide/dp/B00004T7S1

http://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Blades-IBQD25F-1-QuickDraw-Contractor/dp/B00P14T90W

I used this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Masking-Tape-2pcs-Refill/dp/B00J3TLZQC

To do this: https://i.redd.it/rt3x5guaqtq31.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Powerlock-25ft-Tape-Rule/dp/B00002X2GQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501611122&sr=8-3&keywords=tape+measure

Non-mobile: Moisture meters

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KL7TG2/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468432673&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=studfinder

This is the one I use. It has settings for checking deeper.

I have a "deep reading" stud finder that worked wonders for finding studs behind thick plaster. It wasn't all that expensive either - this is what I have

Perhaps you should consider buying one of these before your next big purchase

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002X2GQ/ref=s9_top_hm_b2Jvw_g469_i1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01018D7MS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483084707&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=measure+roller&dpPl=1&dpID=31a6cddgyaL&ref=plSrch

Start at the bottom. Mold needs moisture. Water tends to move down and pool. Moisture meters are not too expensive these days.

If it’s some sort of mason board, they likely needed metal insets in the corners for sealing. This would cause the magnet to stick.

Another option... try an electric stud finder. They work off the same principle, but may have a more sensitive magnet.
http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1342544027&sr=1-2&keywords=stud+finder

Another option is a measurement approach. 16" or 24" has been the standard for a loooong time in the US. Start from a corner and measure out 16". Drill in some holes (small enough to easily cover with paint) about an inch apart. Once you find one that pulls out wood shavings measure 16" off of that and try another. Sucks to put holes in your wall, but that might be the only option.

A saw, drill with bits, measuring tape.

These are some of the tools I have. They are, admittedly, more aggressive than what you might need for your first project but it should give you an idea of were to start from.

So you move a magnet around on a wall until you find a screw head?

Let me change your life, bro:

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1408657633&sr=1-2&keywords=stud+finder

i used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3TLZQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Placed it on cutting mat and used an Xacto to get little shapes.

Air brushed each layer.

paints: xv-88, tau ochre, and a brown lightly darker than the xv-88

Tape measure: as big as you can get your hands on (at least 25 feet)

Combination square: This one is pretty good considering the low price

Chisel: Generally it's good to start with "one big and one small" which admittedly is very vague, but the exact sizes are generally not super critical except for certain specific operations. If you're going to be looking for used stuff at garage sales, really anything will do (as long as both the handle and blade are in reasonable shape from a structural standpoint; rust is not a problem) as long as you sharpen it properly.

Handsaw: For joinery you'll want a smaller saw with lots of teeth per inch (more teeth is slower cutting but a cleaner cut). Eventually, you will want a crosscut saw and a ripcut saw, but you can make do with just the ripcut saw for starters, as long as it's properly sharpened This video explains saws and saw sharpening really well.

Block plane: As long as you flatten the plane sole and sharpen the blade properly, you can use a variety of planes. I like the old Stanley #65 with the knuckle cap, but you can use others too. You might want to start with a low-angle plane to start, because it's particularly well-suited for trimming endgrain to adjust a piece to the exact length, squaring off the ends of pieces, or adjusting a miter cut to a really nice 45 degree angle. There are lots of videos on this on Youtube.

Sharpening: Look up the scary sharp method for starters. Eventually, you'll probably want to go to another method, but the scary sharp is the cheapest to get started with (but more expensive in the long run).

I didn't use any books, I just watched the video. I saw the beginning where the guy showed how the slot isn't square, and thought "I can make a cut that isn't square."
I used this, one of these, these, and a pencil.

I use one of these. My rule of thumb is that typically fresh wood is 25% (wet?) and you want stuff to be in the 5-10% range. I think this can take 6ish months but it depends on humidity, thickness and how you store the wood. I have a big rack of oak slabs that I stacked with sticks in between. I'm no expert though.

Depends on what type of plaster and lath you have (wire mesh is going to be your worst case). Normal wood lath and plaster, use a zircon to get you roughly in the area, and then a magnet to find the lath nails

here's the magnet i like"

https://www.amazon.com/Studpop%C2%AE-100480-SP-Studpop-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B00FRI5TMY

and heres the zircon:

https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-MultiScanner-i520-FFP-Finding-Detection/dp/B01J39MJEI

I dunno, I don't think the US would care if it violated any treaty, given the current US position on landmines.

But again this doesn't stop people it just slows them down. Landmine detectors are trivial to make. Hell, just put this on a pole:

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY

If you aren't there to stop people, they'll still get through, it'll just take a bit longer and maybe cost more. It's how walls work, it's how building security works, it's how safes work.