OK, your situation is perfect.

For starters, you want to do this right. There are 4 ways you should be monitering your progress.

Body Weight

For obvious reasons you'll want to measure and track your body weight. This scale is pretty much the gold standard for cost and precision, however if you already have a scale it's fine to stick with that. A problem many people have is weighing themselves compulsively, sometimes even 6 or 7 times per day. DON'T DO THIS, trust me. Weigh yourself...

• Once a week
  
  
• In the morning before consuming any drinks or food
  
  
• After you've evacuated your bowels
  
  Measurments
  
  Many people on a diet will measure their progress solely based on their body weight. Often times however the scale will get stuck. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, often times your body will go through a re-composition (less fat/more muscle), which won't be reflected on the scale, however you'll notice your clothes will be more loose fitting as muscle is denser than fat, thus you'll be smaller. Buy some sort of measuring tape and take measurements...
  
  
• once a week
  
  
• in the morning, before eating/drinking, after evacuating bowels
  
  
• Waist: Measure a half-inch above your belly button or at the smallest part of your waist
  
  
• Hips: Place tape measure around the biggest part of your hips
  
  
• Thighs: Measure around the biggest part of each thigh
  
  Pictures
  
  My biggest regret from my own weight loss journey is not taking pictures. Not only will it help motivate you, but posting your progress pics to r/keto will help inspire others as well. Take a picture once a week, and try to keep it as consistent as possible. Put the camera in the same place, stand in the same place, same lighting, only underwear etc.
  
  Bloodwork
  
  Go to your doctor for a blood test. INSIST on a VAP test for your cholesterol levels, not the standard (and innacurate given low trig levels) method. The frequency that you get your bloodwork rechecked is up to you, but 3 months into your keto diet seems like a good point to get it rechecked. Probably the most important marker of healthy cholesterol levels is your HDL:Triglyceride ratio (anything over 0.5 is great), and your total VLDL. Despite what you've heard, your total cholesterol level is not a useful indicator for heart health.
  
  Diet
  
  OK, now onto the good stuff, your diet. This is a great place to start. It's a sample one week meal plan made by one of r/keto's very own. Try to stay under 50g of net carbs per day (net carbs = total carbohydrate count minus fiber). For starters go through your entire pantry and refrigerator and get rid of anything you shouldn't be eating on the keto diet. Pasta, candy, chips, soda, bread etc etc. If you can, donate or give it away. If not, don't use that as a reason to keep it. Just throw it away. Trust me, you don't want temptation around, especially in the first few days.
  
  The general philosophy of r/keto (especially with overweight/obese individuals) is to eat when you're hungry, and stop when you're full. The majority of people find this is good enough, however if you find yourself not making any progress then by all means start counting calories.
  
  Now it's time to go shopping. Your diet is going to consist of meats, eggs, seafood, vegetables, low-carb dairy, nuts and seeds. Cooking oils to use are butter, olive oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, or any animal fat (lard, beef tallow...).
  
  Meats
  
  Anything goes. If you're trying to save money go for the cheaper and fattier cuts of chicken (thighs, drumsticks and wings can often be had for <$1.00 per pound).
  
  Eggs
  
  Don't worry about what you've heard with regard to eggs = cholesterol = heart attack. It's untrue, eat as many as you want, yolk included.
  
  Vegetables
  
  Potatoes and corn are way too starchy to include in a ketogenic diet. Tomatoes and carrots are a bit high on the sugar side, but are fine in moderation. Always include vegetables in every meal. They're awesome, and awesome for you.
  
  Low-carb dairy
  
  Heavy cream and cheese are legit. Greek yogurt is a bit carby but fine in moderation.
  
  Nuts and seeds
  
  Almonds are many ketoers favorite snacks. If you're craving something sweet, Emerald dark chocolate or cinnamon almonds are pretty awesome, and relatively low carb.
  
  MUST DO's
  
  Watch Fat Head for free on Hulu. This movie has been a life changer for many people including myself, even though Tom Naughton is a huge fucking dildo in my opinion.
  
  Read Something Awful's Guide to Ketosis. Your single most valuable resource for information on a ketogenic diet (excluding r/keto of course :P).
  
  Read r/keto FAQ
  
  And of course, if you ever have questions, don't hesitate to consult r/keto, we're here to help. Good luck!

I'm not sure if this is quite the right place to put this, but as someone who is very into fitness, health, etc, I want to put good information out there for people to see. Your statement about not losing weight possibly due to muscle gain reminded me of a pretty important idea:

Worry less about the scale and more about the mirror and your waist/hip measurements. The scale numbers matter, but not as much as you might think.

Here is an article on the average ideal waist:hip, waist:chest, and BMI for both men and women:
Ideal to real: What the perfect body really looks like


For the BMI, I'd recommend using this calculator, which BMI with an exponent of 2.5 instead of 2.0, making it better for people of significantly above or below average height:

New BMI Calculator

Here were the ideal numbers for women designed by men:

• BMI of 18.8
  
  
• Waist-to-hip ratio ratio of .73
  
  
• Waist-to-chest ratio of .69
  
  Obviously, you have less control over bust size than you might like, but handling your waist:hip ratio and trying to eat towards the ideal BMI is going to massively increase your sex appeal, mating options, and body satisfaction. The good news is, these are averages, and as long as you are reasonably close, you are going to be somebody's ideal.
  
  EDIT: Just to give a concrete example of this, I like narrower/flatter hips, a smaller chest, and a bit more muscle than most men. This will lead to a small overall size and low curves, but a somewhat higher BMI due to the higher muscle density. However, most women would be very well served by tailoring their fitness regimen to approach the above numbers over time.
  
  
  You can track both your weight and your measurements pretty cheaply. Here are a couple of products on Amazon that make it very easy:
  
  Body measurement tape, $5
  
  Digital scale, $23
  
  I own both of these products and I am very satisfied with them. I'd say measure yourself in the morning after relieving yourself for the most accurate & consistent results.
  
  Fitness and health are both easier and harder than people make them out to be. Often we pursue ideals that are a bit wrongheaded, and it is difficult to form good habits. However, once you pick the right goals, and you establish the good habits, it gets fairly easy and very rewarding. Happy self-improvement, folks!

For reference, discarding took about 4.5 months in my 1400 sq foot home and two storage sheds. I have started working on deep cleaning, upgrading necessary yet ugly items, and storage/organizing. I expect this to take another two months. I am watching "Clean My Space" and "Home Organizing by Alejandra.tv" channels on YouTube now to help with the process.

I am trying to keep in mind getting products out of original packaging, if possible, to limit exposure to constant advertising in my home. I am choosing to spend quite a bit on higher quality products that I love and expect to last many years. Fortunately, I have a budget that allows for some luxuries.

Bedroom

I started with my closet and these great baskets from the container store http://www.containerstore.com/s/whitewash-rattan-bins/d?productId=10037633&q=Large%20Rattan%20Bin%20Whitewash. The closet has a built in shoe organizer and I used my label maker to indicate what style shoes go on which shelf – heels, sandals, sneakers, flats and boots. I also labeled the shelf for each basket. Clothes hangers are all white. They used to be all kinds of colors, and I realized that white is more calming. I am now using these for my socks and undies since konmari folding did not quite work for me on those items http://www.amazon.com/MIU-COLOR-Collapsible-Underwear-Organizer/dp/B009A3HTXY. The folding works great for most of my other clothes. I am still pondering how to organize the nightstand drawers.

Kitchen

I bought a couple of 10" bamboo lazy susans for keeping my oils and vinegars organized in my cabinets. I bought some refrigerator organization units from InterDesign and the Rubbermaid FreshWorks Produce savers. I intend to get Oxo food storage containers for dry goods.
I upgraded to these measuring spoons http://www.amazon.com/Cuisipro-Stainless-Steel-Measuring-Spoon/dp/B00004SU1I and these measuring cups http://www.amazon.com/Sagler-Measuring-Piece-Heavy-duty-Stainless/dp/B00V5EFWTO.

When I was discarding in my kitchen I found I did not really love my dinnerware so I got this set http://www.amazon.com/Corelle-Coordinates-18-Piece-Dinnerware-Service/dp/B00R790CLY plus matching lunch sized plates. I love the simple clean lines and the durability of the product. I downsized from a 12 person setting to 6 and it is great.

Bath

Have not done much here yet. I don’t have much need for storage organization in the cabinets. Still considering what I want to do with the drawers. Right now the drawers are still organized with small cardboard boxes from Glossybox, a cut down cereal box, and an empty jigsaw puzzle box. I upgraded my plunger and brush to nice stainless steel containers, and got a toilet paper holder that matches them http://www.amazon.com/Home-Basics-Vented-Stainless-Toilet/dp/B00JB20IDW.

Laundry

I replaced my bulky plastic basket with this http://www.amazon.com/Bajer-Design-Marketing-5234-Basket/dp/B0010KZCFC. It now hangs on a Command Hook next to the washer.

Car

I have repacked the car kit and 72 hour emergency kits in these for my car and my son's car. ttp://www.amazon.com/TrunkCratePro-Best-Premium-Trunk-Organizer/dp/B01AHK0J9Y. We live in an area prone to natural disasters so I like to be prepared wherever we are. I bought a car trash container (http://www.amazon.com/Highland-1932600-Car-Trash-Keeper/dp/B0027QWNGO) and created a little kit in a ziplock bag in the glovebox with essentials. Also, found tissues in a round container that fits perfectly in the door cup holder. I also bought a set of matching reusable grocery bags (http://www.amazon.com/ReBagMe-Reusable-Grocery-Reinforced-Handles/dp/B00Y17OIR4) so I don’t have the mismatched set. Finally, I have these on order (http://www.amazon.com/Car-Hammer-Seatbelt-Emergency-Must-Have/dp/B00CB8WM2S). Not organization related, just something I have been thinking that I needed for safety.

Purse

I reassessed what is in my purse. I used a couple small cosmetics bags that I had on hand and now have many things I wished I had at various times. Everything is neatly organized and I know exactly what is in there and why I have it. Everything from safety pins, to pen and notebook (http://www.amazon.com/Marble-Composition-Books-Notebooks-Green/dp/B00WRDIS9I), to a tiny flashlight, a granola bar in case I am out and hungry, a tide stain remover pen, a tiny Band-Aid package, tiny measuring tape (http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot-4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH), my phone, my wallet, and my keys are always on the little hook. Not exactly Konmari minimalism, but those are all things that I wished I had at various times and I am happy that I will not be caught without again. It is a medium size purse, packed just right, with stuff easily accessible.

Home office

I have not done much there yet, but this drawer organizer is working pretty well http://www.amazon.com/Rolodex-Regeneration-Deep-Drawer-Organizer-21864/dp/B002JG48R4.

Command center

I am currently working on a “Command Center” to keep clutter off the kitchen counter. I have not purchased anything for that yet. I am writing down ideas, measuring, and considering products. http://thehappyhousie.porch.com/20-fabulous-command-centers-to-get-your-life-completely-organized/

Other random stuff:

I moved my CDs into a holder http://www.amazon.com/Case-Logic-DVDW-92-Capacity-Classic/dp/B00005ATMD and they now live on a Command Hook in my car. For movies I transferred them to these Sleeves http://www.amazon.com/Atlantic-74604729-Movie-Sleeves/dp/B002JR2V7C and they now live in a small drawer in my living room. I tossed the packaging because it was bulky and does not give me joy.

I am using these in my linen closet http://www.amazon.com/Honey-Can-Do-STO-02986-Nested-Woven-Esspresso. This box for my jewelry http://www.amazon.com/Black-Leather-Jewelry-Travel-Case/dp/B0006JCGUM.

Not related to organizing, but I am loving these brushes for getting tiny spaces clean. So much better than an old toothbrush. http://www.amazon.com/OXO-Good-Grips-Clean-Brush/dp/B003M8GMS6

If you made it this far, congrats. Something that I have noticed is that I can now shop with confidence, I can easily toss or donate the old unloved items, and I am organized enough to return those few items that don’t work as well as I hoped. My home feels much more open and inviting. I know where everything is and my clear vision is starting to come to fruition.

Glubot - it looks funny to a non woodworker, but it is an amazing thing to have around the shop. It makes glue ups about 100 times more enjoyable. Maybe get some silicone brushes to go with it.

Magnifying Lamp - a great addition to any shop. Be sure to get one with a long arm like this one so he can mount it behind his bench and still be able to use it.

Incra Rulers - these are the best damn rulers you'll ever use. The slots make consistent marks that are very reliable. A 12 inch T ruler would be best, but this one is also cool.

Wool Socks - if you live in a cold climate and his shop isn't heated, this would be an awesome gift. I got these socks specifically and they are awesome. Me feet never overheat, but they keep me very warm and are very comfortable. This is a damn good deal actually... I might order these now.

If the bandsaw runs, it should still be useful. You can purchase a new blade if there's an issue with the existing one. The chisels will be fine, but you'll have to learn how to sharpen them. Sharpening systems can be expensive, though.

Otherwise it depends a little on what you want to build.

If I were starting out on a significant budget, I think I'd go with a skil saw, triangle square, tape measure, and drill/driver set. And I'd be thrilled to have a bandsaw & chisels. If you can, buy a good skil saw. Don't too much worry about the quality of the rest.

Those will all be very useful later, too, of course. Might build some sawhorses first and go from there.

A skil saw is really useful for breaking down pallets, as well, in case you plan on making use of them as a source of lumber while you're starting out.

If you want a more specific list, I own these products:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-312-Powerlock-Tape-Rule/dp/B00002X2GN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387060&sr=8-5&keywords=stanley+tape+measure

You don't need a 25' tape and a 12' tape is easier to use.

https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387078&sr=8-3&keywords=skil+saw

That skil saw isn't the best in the world, but it'll get you pretty far.

https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101-7-inch-Square-Layout/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387123&sr=8-1&keywords=triangle+square

Just a cheap, basic square.

You'll also want some clamps, no doubt. On a tight budget I'd get some walmart cheapies. They're not great, but they get the job done, and clamps are crazy expensive. You want them to be basically like this:

https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed-Mini-Bar-Clamp-1964742/dp/B00002244S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387348&sr=8-1&keywords=woodworking+clamps+hand

But larger (12-36"). And walmart brand is cheaper, I think they're about $3 for a 12" clamp.

Good luck! Ask questions!

If your goals are to do fine woodworking, like interior furniture (that isn't "rustic")...or if your budget is much larger, then you'll be looking at an entirely different set of tools.

Table saw, planer, orbital sander, bandsaw (if yours is no good), bench grinder, miter saw, jointer, in order of importance (to me!). And lots and lots of hand tools. Marking gauge, marking knife, awl, variety of drill bits, counter sinks.

Belt sander, disc sander, jigsaw, router. Router can be way up there in importance if you make good use of it--very versatile tool. I just don't use it a ton personally, and bits can be very expensive.

Here's what I would buy if I were equipping my garage workshop on a budget from scratch today:

• Table Saw - Unless you go for hand tools, this is the absolute core of your shop. Do not buy a new saw for less money than this under any circumstances, because it's false economy and you'll soon outgrow it. You may wish to buy a cheaper used model, in which case you should shop for a Craftsman 113 (aim for a belt drive rather than direct drive) on Craigslist. Spend up to $150 and plan to build or buy a better fence in the first year, which will bring you up to roughly the same capability as the new saws.
  
• Drill and Driver - You need a drill anyway. Everyone does. This is nothing fancy, but it's a tolerable set that should last a hobbyist quite a while, and both batteries and extra tools are cheap. Grab a set of drill bits and a few impact-rated screwdriver bits, or a fancy combo set of both.
  
• Miter Saw - Indispensable for cutting long pieces. You may eventually wish to get a big 12" sliding monstrosity to make wider pieces easier to work with, but you can also do that with a table saw. I suggest an inexpensive variant of the most basic type of miter saw to start, so you've got a good foundation to work from but don't have a ton of sunk cost if you upgrade later.
  
• Circular Saw - You'll use this for breaking down sheets of plywood bigger than your table saw can handle. You can also use it as a stand-in for the table saw for the first few projects. I'm recommending a lightweight cordless model for convenience during these simple, short tasks, but if you work with thick materials you may eventually want a powerful corded one as well - I've got a cordless and then a monstrous 15-lb worm drive saw for heavy duty use. If you just want to split the difference right off the bat and have one tool that's okay for everything and not great at anything, get a basic corded one.
  
• Jigsaw - For cutting curves and small notches. Make sure you get one with orbital motion, but other than that you can go pretty cheap on this because you won't use it that often. However, buy top-of-the-line blades; I really like Bosch blades.
  
• Router - This is a very capable middle-of-the-road router. You'll eventually want to add a plunge base, and might add a lightweight trim router to make edge profiles more easily. You can get accessories to expand on this, or you can eventually dedicate it to a router table and buy new for those other things - the variable speed motor on this is ideal for table use.
  
• Sander - This is the most general-purpose sort of sander, although it's a little on the aggressive side for final sanding. Just hand-sand where you need more finesse until you know what other sanders you might want.
  
• Combination Square - Use this for laying out cuts and holes and stuff.
  
• Speed Square - That blue book will show you tons of neat tricks with this square. Mostly you're going to use it as a short guide for the circular saw, though.
  
• Tape Measure
  
  Edit: Looks like that's about $1,100.00 depending on your local tax rate and how much of it you can slip past untaxed. That's steeper than I expected, but it's also an entire barebones shop for less money than the table saw I really want.

---

Section 1: Tools

---

Note: Just because it is more expensive doesn't mean it is better. You could get by just fine with the "cheaper" options.

---
| Tool | Required vs. Optional | Use | Notes | Price & Link |
|:---|:---:|:---|:---|:---:|:---:|
| Tandy Wholesale Membership | O | Allows you to get better pricing at Tandy. | This is definitely optional. Items will cost slightly more without it OR if you have a tax ID you can get the membership with better pricing for free. | $35 / Free|
| Awl Haft | R | The handle which will hold your blade. | This particular haft allows for different blades to be added or removed with ease. | $16 / $35|
| Diamond Awl Blade| R | This is the blade used for piercing the holes in your projects.| This goes in the awl haft.| $4.80 / $28
| Channel Groover | R | Used to measure and gouge channels where your thread will lay. | Some say gouging a channel is optional however I find it to be required. It further protects your thread from damage. | $16 / $80 |
| Overstitch Wheel | R | Marks where you will punch your holes. | This particular overstitch wheel is a few dollars more than the versions that only offer one wheel. | $24 / $225 |
| Edge Beveler | R | Used to bevel and round off the edges of your project prior to burnishing. | Sizes vary. The smaller the number, the smaller the round edge. | $12 / $55 |
| Adhesive Glue | O | Used to hold your pieces of leather together prior to piercing the holes. | Some people prefer binder clips instead of glue. I've found that the clips end up making marks on my projects so I've always stuck with glue. | $6 / $30 |
| Gum Tragacanth | R | Used as a burnishing agent for your edges.| Some people use saddle soap. I prefer gum trag.| $6.40 / $21|
| Harness Needles | R | Used in combination with the thread for your projects. | Avoid the stitching needles. They break very easily.| $5.99 / $7.50 |
| Xacto Blade | R | Used for cutting projects. | You may have one of these at home already. Be ready to have replacement blades handy ($21.95) | $2.49 / $50 |
| Self-Healing Cutting Mat | R | Used for cutting your leather projects.| You may have one of these at home already. If so, you can obviously use that.| $14.73 / $50.80 |
| Cork-backed Ruler| R | Used for cutting straight lines.| I highly recommend the cork-backed version. It will save from accidental cuts/slips.| $4.80 / $14 |
| Burnishing Tool | R | Used in combination with the gum tragacanth to get a good burnish.| A good piece of canvas can be used as well. | $8.99 / $80 + $99|
| Sanding Tool| O | Used to sand down the edges prior to burnishing.| You might have sandpaper at home. Feel free to use that too.| $7.30 / $0 with dremel|
| Steel Square | O | Used for creating nice, even squares/rectangles for projects. | Learn to use this correctly!| $8 / $14|
| Thread Cutters | O | Use these for cutting your thread in the hard to reach places without running the risk of damaging your project. | Scissors work for cutting thread and the xacto blade can work for cutting thread inside your projects -- just be careful! | $3.95 / $39 |
| Maul | O | Used for end punches, rivets, snaps, chisels, or irons. | You really only need one of these if you are planning on doing any of the activities mentioned previously. | $20 / $55 |
| Pricking Iron/Chisel | O | Use these to mark or punch your holes instead of an overstitch wheel and awl. I prefer using the overstitch wheel and awl but others like the irons/chisels. | There is a big difference between irons vs. chisels, diamond vs. lacing. They all produce different results. Definitely ask before purchasing! The ones I linked are very different.| $12 / $259|
| Creaser | O | Used for decorative creases on things like card slots. | Definitely optional and definitely personal preference. | $14.40 / $72 |
| Wax | O | Used for burnishing. Gives the edges a nice seal. | The $10 is my top secret wax I use. I bought a bunch on sale for $5 and it is fantastic. | $4 / $10|

---

Woodpecker makes super nice stuff but they are hilariously expensive, I think a lot of it is because they tend to produce stuff in small production runs and don't really have the volume to keep prices down. Wood is gonna move over time and even a harbor freight caliper can measure more accurately than I can cut something anyway. Woodworking isn't machining, stuff doesn't have to be accurate to a thou.

Incra and Kreg have some marking tools that are very good and much more reasonably priced than woodpecker. I use this thing more than pretty much any other marking tool in the shop.

Amazon has nice straight edges that are guaranteed straight to within good tolerances. I have a couple and they are dead straight measured against a laser and my table saw.

Squares are easy to check, just use a known straight edge like your table saw, scribe a line, flip the square and if its off it will be obvious. I buy squares from harbor freight, check a few in the store to find one that is accurate. An expensive square or straight edge is gonna get screwed up eventually when I inevitably drop it or bang it on something, and with harbor freight I just take it back and get a new one.

Rockler has some house brand stuff like their wheel gauge that's pretty good.

The best marking knife I have owned is a chip carving knife I bought at a flea market. Speaking of which, flea markets, garage sales and swap meets are good places too, buy old quality stuff cheap and restore it.

1. The first rule of Keto, is we do NOT talk about Keto to folks "outside"
   
   
2. The second rule of Keto, is WE DO NOT TALK ABOUT KETO TO FOLKS "OUTSIDE"! You will get a LOT of fear-mongering if you do. At first, only allude to it.. like "cutting out sugar", "watching what I eat", etc... when you have indisputable proof that it IS working, then you can actually mention "No/Low-Carb".
   
   
3. Get some flair going! (over by the subscribe button, the 'normal' format is Gender/Age/Height Starting Weight, Current Weight, Goal, but do what you like with it)
   
   
4. If you're putting it in your steak hole, you'd better be weighing it (if it's not pre-packaged), and logging it. Quite a few of us are on MFP. This can help avoid "surprises" later, and help keep you accountable, even if only to yourself. Once you get the hang of it, you can let up, but if you stall out, that'll be the first thing people will ask: "Are you logging what you eat?"
   
   
5. Treat foods with <1g carbs/serving as 1g, save yourself the headache.
   
   
6. If you don't know if it has carbs in it, assume it has carbs in it, and probably quite a bit more than you expect.
   
   
7. MEASURE EVERYTHING! Take before pictures, take during pictures, use a scale, but don't trust the bastard. Invest in a measuring tape If you don't have one already. There WILL be weeks where the scale doesn't budge, but you might simply be replacing fat with muscle.
   
   
8. You're about to shed a bunch of weight, it'll be water. If this is surprising to you, read the FAQ!, the FAQ is good!
   
   
9. Bonus points if you can arrange for "pre" bloodwork, so you can get some "post" bloodwork to help with point #2
   
   oh, and welcome! :D

Honest question: Why did you say that Husky is what "Craftsman used to be"?

When I read your post, I got a little worried because I have a lot of Craftsman tools. I did a quick Google search and found this on "The Consumerist" website.

I'm still under the assumption that Craftsman backs up their hand tools (as opposed to any powered tools) with a pretty-much 'no questions asked' policy. I've used it before and have had no problems, and this is why I go with Craftsman. They have so many options and the exchange is effortless and honored.

I know I'm sounding like a Craftsman fanatic (maybe I am), but their special tools that they come out with, such as the stripped screw removal bits, can be phenomenal, too. I can't recall what they call these tools, but they often devote television commercials to them.

Hey, great advice on Husky. They need to advertise their guarantee better. I didn't know about it. And you're right about the wire cutters. Ironically, I need to exchange my Craftsman wire cutter because the metal is notched (dinged) from bending/tearing under heavier usage. It'd be easier to just get a higher quality set in the first place and not have to screw with it. I've never had a pair that didn't fail at some point and am going to eventually just drop some money into good ones.

(BTW, I totally agree with your bucket/toolbox recommendation. I use three toolboxes for various things, and this is my favorite.)

Edit: Stanley FatMax is a good choice for a tape measure. You shouldn't have any trouble finding them. This particular one is 26 feet and includes metric.

I've done business with Plaza Japan in the past, they have a good selection and low prices; you'll pay for shipping so best or order more than just one product to take advantage of that.

​

Amazon isn't bad, just check the prices compared to other stores. I've gotten great deals, and I've seen items posted at silly prices too. If you got prime then shipping is covered, although keep in mind that lots of the low price ship kits are shipped from Japan so the free shipping takes a while. Also read the reviews, I've had a couple of sellers not ship but Amazon had my back every time.

​

As for tips for a beginner, get the right tools right off the bat, this tool kit is a good start, I like these brushes (although you might want to get an additional bigger one as well), and I use this brush cleaner. Get a paint pallet for mixing, remember some paints like Tamiya need thinner while ones like AK don't. For more on brushes watch this quick video. You'll likely want some modeling masking tape. If you'll be doing something with lots of decals like a Carrier get some Microset & Microsol plus decal/hobby scissors. You'll need some kind of filler putty, I like miliput. Later on you'll want to mess with things like washes (vallejo makes a great out of the bottle wash) simple washes can make you stuff suddenly look pro because of what it does to small details, if you're going to be doing ships with specific paint schemes look in to the AK sets they'll be 5-6 colors all as part of a theme (like Royal Navy ships).

​

Most importantly you should start with something cheap. Your first few models will be learning experiences, so play around with those cheap $10 IJN destroyer kits till you get comfortable, use it to test painting techniques, then build that $50 HMS Ark Royal kit.

I think a Food processer is very important! You can use veggies in crazy ways if you can break them down. Even nuts can be used as a cookie base. It's a little more work but making homemade sauces can be so much healthy, especially if you can sneak in extra veggies!

Lets all sing Portion Control amen. And don't forget measuring cups and spoons, to control condiments, you could also just use the cups instead of the fancy portion measurer



I also recommend getting one of these under desk peddlers promise yourself you'll use it when watching T.V or doing reddit.

Pedometer a nifty affordable way to keep track of how much you are actually walking. I'm going to buy one just to make myself walk more!

Tape measure this is going to be surprisingly important. I've been trying to get back into shape since last September and I've only lost 15 pounds. I didn't keep track of my measurements, and I wish I had. My pants are almost falling off, but the proof of the numbers would be more of a morale booster. Easier to pass on the second helping of Chinease food if you KNOW you're making progress!

I wish you great luck! I think eating healthy is most important,but it feels so good, to just work the heck out,and be covered in sweat, and know you whooped that workouts ass! And another idea is to watch your department stores, I got my $200 stationary bike for $40 bucks,because it was a floor model,and was missing a little cover on one of the edges that touch the floor.

Tools/Materials:

• straight edge metal ruler - http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-ASE-24-Anodized-Aluminum-Straight/dp/B002C29SG6
  
• couple of cheap razor knives - http://www.amazon.com/SKILCRAFT-MR-1097-Utility-Knife--18mm/dp/B00JWTQ25C
  
• a cutting surface ( you could use an old piece of cardboard or wood, but I use a cutting mat ) - http://www.amazon.com/DAFA-Professional-Self-Healing-Double-Sided-Introductory/dp/B00P6KPKB8
  
• Tacky Glue - http://www.amazon.com/ALEENES-15599-Purpose-Glue-8-Ounce/dp/B00178KLEY
  
• Sewing pins - http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Quilters-Pins-4-Inch-Count/dp/B001UAJ776
  
• Foam core
  
  You find all of these supplies at Walmart.
  
  As far as an approach, for some games I've used existing plans (Castles of Burgundy, Descent), but others I haven't found plans or didn't like the plans others had.
  
  When creating my own plans I use the following process.
  
  
• Play the game a few times, determine what pieces are only used at setup and what pieces you need throughout the game. If there are pieces every player gets one of, or shares, etc.
  
• I group the pieces into logical sets based on the above conditions and try to visualize how they might fit in the box as a set of setup and in-game "trays"
  
• Then I cut a base out of my foam core the size of the bottom of the box. Warning, twice I've started my insert using the lid of the box and not the bottom and the pieces didn't fit!
  
• I layout my pieces on this base and decide how to sub-divide the base into the various "trays". Sometimes, like the player trays in this set I decide to make dual layer trays so I account for that.
  
• I then cut the base into bottoms for each tray.
  
• Cut sides to the right height based on the height of the box.
  
• With the sides cut I'll glue the sides to the base using the sewing pins to hold the pieces in place while the glue dries. Pins are like clamps for foam core.
  
• With that done I'll organize the pieces in each tray and create the necessary dividers. For cards and small tiles it's useful to leave gaps in the dividers so that you can get your fingers down into the tray when removing the pieces.
  
• Once that's done I make any upper level trays using the same process.
  
  Having good spacial awareness helps to visual how the components will fit. My insert for Agricola took forever to figure out how to fit the pieces in a useful way. That game is dense.

I just did this floor plan on a box lid and yeah straight lines suck.

First, I would suggest drawing everything in pencil with a ruler. I always do this - not sure if others do or not.

Second, there are two ways you can do the lines. Free hand can work if you take your time, but it's always going to give you a little waviness unless you're very good. The other way is to get a steel ruler with a cork backing (something like this). Set that right next to your pencil line and you have a guide for your burner to run along.

Practice!

What burner are you using? I just use the Walnut hollow Versa Tool which isn't too elaborate or expensive, but the rheostat for the temperature can help a lot. I think /u/smolderingdesigns uses the same tool, and she does way better work than me. There are much nicer tools out there, but I wouldn't say they're a requirement to do good work.

Good on you for jumping into it! First of all you definitely want to thin down your paints. Here is a good video on how to do so by the best 40k painter in the world. Secondly, if you are having trouble with some of the straight line bits like on the chest, neck, and leg pads of the commander, painters tape can help you practice and keep things straight. It's not the most reliable tool so I wouldn't use it as a crutch but it will help as you get more experience. Tamiya masking tape is decent and used a lot in the model painting community. Lastly, I'm not sure what size brush you're using but it could be that getting a smaller one will help. Keeping a medium brush around is good for painting large sections but I'd recommend picking up something like an artificer brush and painting with just the very tip of it to work on smaller detailed sections.

I think it's wiser to learn how to properly setup a guitar on your own. It's not as difficult as many people think and only requires a few amount of tools. Here's what I use:

• Feeler Gauge
  
• Allen Wrench Set
  
• String Winder
  
• Screwdrivers
  
• Capo
  
• Precision Ruler
  
  That's basically it. You don't really need anything else unless you are getting into advanced guitar repair stuff like fretwork or wiring and the like (in which case I would advise you do take it to a pro unless you know what you're doing).
  
  Total cost = $39.93 That's cheaper than any professional guitar setup I know of.
  
  From there you just have learn how to do simple things like neck adjustments, intonation, string height, and pickup height. You can find out how to do all of this stuff with a simple search on youtube.
  
  The advantages of doing it yourself are plentiful. You can find out exactly what relief you like in the neck and exactly what type of action you like on your strings. Professional setups just setup the guitars the way they think they should be setup which isn't always the way you would want to do it.
  
  Also, my guitars go out of whack with the seasons as the neck can fluctuate with the temperature and other things. Rather than pay another x amount of dollars to get it setup again, you can just set it back to the way you original set it up.
  
  TL;DR Learn to setup a guitar yourself. It's better.
  
  EDIT: You need a tuner too. For some reason I just think every guitar player has one of these already.

Cereal - retarded o'calories
Fast food - retarded o'calories

What you're going to need to bag an Adonis:

• Tailor's tape
  
  
• Food scale
  
  
• This, or on whatever your boat floats
  
  
• Patience
  
  I went from 250 - 200 in about 3 months by simply cutting out carbs entirely. Ketogenic diets can definitely help speed the process along, but you may find that chocolate cravings will replace penis cravings, so watch out for the backlash from hijacking a Hostess truck and devouring its contents wholesale.
  
  It's been said before, but read the FAQ.
  Use the food scale to help you plan accordingly to the nutritional data given by what you eat. Compare grams to grams. Boom, head shot.
  
  Measuring yourself with the tape is a much better metric than using a scale, in my opinion. Scales don't account for water weight or how full/empty your stomach was last time/is now.
  
  You can't out-exercise a shitty diet. Say that to yourself every time you go to eat something you shouldn't. You can have a treat when you're getting dicked by the type of guy you want. But then cut out the bullshit and get back to work. Beauty takes maintenance.
  
  Despite your desire for wanting cock, I highly recommend you exercise. Being healthy is a good thing. You may feel you have missed out X years, but health allows you to extend your life that much further. It's probably not as good, but getting in the habit now allows you to get boned by the old guys in your convalescent home.
  
  Your tits are probably going to sag. I'm just saying that now to mentally prepare you. I don't know what you look like, but I'm sure they're going to have a bit of sway that is unwelcome. I'm balding; we all have our flaws. On the bright side, I never have to pay for a hair cut again. I don't know what the silver lining is for saggy tits, but I'm sure you can figure it out. You're a smart person.

That sticky is exactly what you need. I would add that a ruler that has a non-slip/cork back on it is essential for your sanity. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Ruler-18-Cork-Back/dp/B003W0R8EG

Also, perfection is nice, but mine are super wonky and still work. After I've made them I never look at the detail again. You can make them fairly quickly and with some nice zen if you are okay with "happy little accidents"...

Thanks for running this!!

reddit raffle phrase gifting is fun.

Crazy Japanese thingy on my Main. ($5.99)

Basil seeds on my Main. ($2.47)

Sunglasses on my Main. ($3.15)

Nail polish top coat on my Polish. ($4.44)

Tape measure on my Hobbies. ($3.39)

Totaling... $19.44!

Edit:

I'm curious to see what other combination I can do with just stuff for apartments. XD

Santoku knife on my Prep. ($7.04)

Baking spoons on my Prep. ($6.03)

Collapsible measuring cup on my Prep. ($7.81)

Totaling... $20.88

Blegh, it's a lot harder with apartment stuff. XD

Someone just asked a similar question earlier this week. Their budget was only $20 but there are a ton of good ideas in that thread and you could just get him a few items.

The most popular item was the Incra Precision T-Rule and Incra has a quite a few other items that he may find useful (regular precision rule, bend rule, centering rule, protractor) and they all come in different sizes. If the 3" is too small, there is 6", 12" and 18". Just search Amazon for "Incra Rule" and you'll see them all. I've added the 3" T-Rule and Regular Precision Rule to my Xmas list. I've also added the 6" T-Rule and the protractor to my own "Wanted List" for a future purchase.

My recommendation in that thread was a woodworking calculator that computes within Feet and Inches down to 1/32. It does metric, areas, board feet, and more as well. Very useful tool that most people don't realize how much they would use.

And here's a link to the thread itself: http://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/2olpbx/best_woodworking_gift_for_under_15/

Checking your chain alignment is really really easy.

Get a ruler. Metric is preferable, but if all you have is inches, we can work with that. However, if it's an inch ruler, this is going to be a lot harder. I have one of these. I use it for a lot of stuff, and you can get them almost anywhere, so I would recommend you get one.

Measure from the center of your seat tube to the inside edge of your sprocket. The more precise you measure, the better your chainline will end up, but at a minimum, you need to measure to the nearest 1mm (or 1/32 inch). Write that number down. We'll call this dimension S.

Now measure from the inside of your dropout to the inside of the driver teeth, again to the nearest 1mm (1/32 inch). White that number down. We'll call this dimension D.

Finally, add S and D together. If you used inches, you need to convert fractional inches to decimal inches, then convert the inches to mm. Don't be scared, Google will do it for you.

For a perfect chainline, S+D=55. If it's less, add spacers between the sprocket and the frame to make up the difference.

For example, suppose you measured your sprocket at 42mm, and your driver at 12mm. That's 54mm, so add a 1mm spacer.

If S+D is greater than 55, remove spacers. You might get in trouble with stuff hitting your chainstays though.

By the way, 55mm is 1/2 the width of the hub (BMX hub spacing is 110mm). We are just using the inside of the dropout as a reference plane to measure the distance from the driver to the centerline of the bike. If you have a driveside hubguard, you need to subtract that thickness from the D measurement.

I hope that helps.

Not DIY, but I use this [measurement tape] (https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=sr_1_3_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1522175438&sr=1-3&keywords=body+measurement+tape). Several brands like it on there. It allows for a MUCH easier experience than a flexible measuring tape like for sewing because you put the "peg" into the holder to make a "loop" bigger than you need, then push the button and it tightens down to fit you... then you read it! I track measurements 1x a month in MFP. Not as cheap, but user friendly.

If you're trying to keep burning fat, you absolutely need to keep that deficit. If you're lifting, keep it up. If you're not, start, even with just resistance bands. Also keep moving. Walk a lot. And get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y or get a soft fabric tape measure and write down your measurements. A stall is a month or more with no change in ANY physical measurement. IIRC Jimmy Moore once went 10 weeks with no weight loss, but he lost 6 inches at his waist at the same time, back when he first did Atkins.

At this point it's really good to stay focused on the process and on how well you feel. The external rewards aren't going to come as fast, so enjoy your steak and butter, and celebrate every tiny gain.

A year ago I was in your position - 21, 5'5" and 240 pounds. Now I weigh 145 (still trying to build muscle)!

You have already received tonssssss of great advice but I thought I'd let you know, from someone who was basically in your position, that this is possible and you can do it! Here is my 2 cents:

• You discuss working out, and it sounds like you have been keeping it up for about 6 weeks, so that is a really good start. Don't play down your accomplishments by saying it hasn't been that long. Take the advice here on workouts and keep it up, as it is good for your health. Personally, I enjoy running or doing bodyweight fitness because I don't have good access to a gym, but do what works for you! However, note that weight loss is mostly diet, not exercise!
  
  
• In terms of diet, here again, you have good suggestions. I went the MyFitnessPal calorie counting route and that has worked well for me. No restrictions on what you eat, though you will end up eating healthier to be fuller. This also allows you to understand how much you are cheating. If I have some sort of special occasion and eat 250 extra calories I can see how much this effects me in the long run, whereas in the past I may have said "well I ate 2 cookies so now I'm doomed forever and may as well eat all this ice cream." Take baby steps. You may even want to start by simply logging what you eat rather than restricting it.
  
  
• In terms of progress. You are right not to focus on the scale. Still "feeling yourself getting tighter" might not be a very objective standard of measurement either. Use one of these to measure yourself accurately and take periodic progress pictures. Losing a lot of weight is difficult to comprehend. I still picture myself about how I probably looked at 180ish, and even that has taken a long time. You will need these in the future to truly understand how far you have come!

what i do for motivation is make me a weight chart in excel. in one column i have the date i weight myself on and in the other column is what I should be weighing for the week. This way I can know exactly how much I'll weigh and by what date I will be getting there. I try to shoot for 2lbs a week weight loss as that's pretty good progress and keeps me more motivated. A weekly cheat is OK as long as you plan to make up for it by eating less later on. I visit my parents on the weekend so my weekends are basically cheat days, but I try not to go too overboard still. I also had a cheat week where I made no progress (vacation) but I still kept on trucking. You'll have your ups and downs, try to focus more on the positive effects of your efforts and don't dwell on it if you gain a pound one week.

Also I would recommend tape measure and calipers. This way you'll know when you lose fat vs just water weight fluctuations on the scale (the scale can fluctuate at least 5lbs).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G7YW7Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QURRUK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Set your goals, try to achieve them every week, and keep track of your measurements! Stick to healthy foods, while you can lose weight eating fried foods you have to eat less of them for this to happen, than say, a salad. You can eat a lot of salad and not have it impact your calories for the day.

Protein is also important. Protein will keep you full longer! Meat, eggs.

Avoid excessive carbs but a piece of bread here and there doesn't hurt too much as long as it's under your goal. Don't expect to be able to fill up on bread though.

If you don't reach your goal for the week then you need to adjust the amount of calories you are eating! Eating less food vs eating more isn't going to kill you (as long as you only lose 2lbs per week and not any more!)

In the beginning you should see a lot of progress, then you'll level out and it will become harder to lose weight as you reach your goal. Adjust your calories then and don't get discouraged!

Good luck on your weight loss journey.

You will get some amazing results. I got this body meauring tape for my measurements (waist, chest, arms, thighs, etc). These are the metrics you will pay attention to. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G7YW7Y?pc_redir=1405521762&robot_redir=1.

Good luck my friend. I want to hear your progress.

Measurements are so motivating! And sometimes a better metric than the scale, just because your actual weight can be influenced by so many things. I do mine once a month and they're always super encouraging. I'm down almost 20 pounds and I don't really see a difference in the mirror, but my measuring tape promises I'm getting smaller.

I got this puppy from Amazon for less than $5 shipped and it's made measuring a lot easier and more accurate.

The tandy beginner set is geared towards tooling, which certainly does require veg tan. Depending on whether or not that's the aesthetic you are going for, you may not need the swivel knife and stamps (or you may want many more stamps). But at it's core, you need:

• Something to measure with (metal ruler)
  
  
• Something very sharp to cut with (Utility knife / Rotary Cutter / Round/Head knife)
  
  
• Something to attach pieces together (Contact Cement + either Rivets or Waxed Thread/Harness Needles)
  
  And a slight step above that is something to finish edges (acrylic edge paint, water/gum tragacanth/wax etc.)
  
  I personally do not do a lot of tooling, and also usually use stitching (vs rivets), so if I were going to recommend some starting tools I would say
  
  
• Cork-backed Metal Ruler
  
• Seiwa Pricking Irons
  
  
• Ritza Tiger Thread
  
  
• John James Harness Needles
  
  
• Olfa Rotary Cutter
  
  
• Wing Divider (used to mark stitch lines)
  
  
• Contact Cement
  
• Some variety of beeswax or paraffin, I like this stuff
  
  
• Some scrap pieces of canvas and soft cotton for burnishing an edge (old jeans and t-shirts work great)
  
• Some Misc. items you probably already have like sandpaper and super glue from time to time.
  
  Edit: I didn't include an awl because the Seiwa irons are designed to punch through, but a good diamond awl from Bob Douglas/Barry King or similar would probably be my first upgrade to this set of tools.

I actually don't know, but if you just need basic truss rod/action adjustments, I would recommend learning to do it yourself. It's really not that hard and the tools can be found at any local hardware store. Adjust in this order:

Truss Rod: You will need Feeler Gauges and a Capo on the first fret. press down with one had on the low E on the fret where the neck meets the body and stick a feeler gauge (.010") between the fret and the E string halfway between the first fret and the one you are pressing (usually 8th or 9th). Adjust the truss rod until the gap allows the gauge to slide in without pushing the string, and with no residual gap. The truss rod section of this page is good.

Bridge Height: You need a 6" Steel Ruler to measure the strings to your comfort, around 5/64's of an inch on the low E and 4/64's on the high e measured at the 17th fret. Adjust the bridge height with a screwdriver or allen wrenches as applicable.

Nut Height: You'll need your feeler gauges again and nut files that match the gauge of each string. You may be able to find a cheap alternative in a hardware store. As a rule of thumb, any tool branded as a luthier tool probably has a dirt cheap exact alternative at your local hardware store. Nuts should be filed down so that the string lays in halfway in the groove, halfway over the top. Bottom of the trough should be filed down to be .010" from the top of the first fret (use the feeler gauge).

Intonation: quoting from that fender link i posted above
>Set the pickup selector switch in the middle position, and turn the volume and tone controls to their maximum settings. Check tuning. Check each string at the 12th fret, harmonic to fretted note (make sure you are depressing the string evenly to the fret, not the fingerboard). If sharp, lengthen the string by adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten the string by moving the saddle forward. Remember, guitars are tempered instruments! Re-tune, play and make further adjustments as needed.

skipping the nut height isn't the end of the world if you dont want to shell out for the files.

Edit: oh and pretty much any tool has a high quality demo video on stewmac.com so check those out.

you have to call for exchanges but then they give you free shipping. Not such a bad trade off.

As far as fit goes, I agree with /u/2takeke below, every piece of clothing has its own size chart listed. Figure out your measurements and you'll never have any more issues with "odd" or "inconsistent" sizes.

You only need a mark for the beginning and the end of the line. Once those are marked, it's best to use a straight edge like this or this.

Bill was using a triangular scale which are really common in the engineering fields.

It is and it isn't, drafting is still taught in most schools as an introduction to CAD to understand the drawing standards. All the engineering programs I've seen stick with CAD or 3D modeling but architectural programs still like hand drawn models.

I modified my setup a bit, to accodomodate feedback from other people and to see what works best for me

Somebody suggest to use this knife:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's my new setup:

RIGHT FRONT POCKET

Any dynomighty wallet, just pick a design

https://www.dynomighty.com/categories/

Car keys (whatever your carkeys are). If you want a USB stick added on to your keys, use a Micro-HDMI for low profile and convenience

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBGYGPG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LEFT FRONT POCKET

Iphone6, Samsung S6, etc etc. Whatever floats your boat

Pick a small battery charger, search for it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=portable+battery+charger&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aportable+battery+charger

Get a retractable cable for your charger if you need too (low profile)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Gold-Plated-Retractable-Micro-USB/dp/B00SVVY844/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558782&sr=8-4&keywords=USB+retractable+cable

JEAN COIN POCKET (on front right pocket)

That gerber fold up knife https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RIGHT MOST JEAN STRAP ( was the front right before)

Carbiner

https://www.amazon.com/LeBeila-Carabiner-Aluminum-Locking-Keychain/dp/B013NNG18U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558280&sr=8-1&keywords=carabiner

duck tape

Tape planet had the cheapest prices at $1.54 each

http://www.tapeplanet.com/Mini-Rainbow-Duck-Tape-Duckling-p/stdtpl-282322.htm

BACK LEFT POCKET

Measuring tape. This one has the lowest profile so it doesn't hurt to sit on, 10' is good enough for almost everything

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558504&sr=8-7&keywords=measuring+tape

BACK RIGHT POCKET

Get sticky notes, I suggest highland brand 3"x3" since it works for nearly everything you might need sticky notes. I suggest getting both, alternate colors by day

Plain yellow:

https://www.amazon.com/Post--Markers-Assorted-Bright-670-10AB/dp/B007QFATEO/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558871&sr=1-6&keywords=sticky+notes

Color:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OCPJK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, get a sharpie too. Fine points are good

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Point-Black/dp/B00006IFHD/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558955&sr=1-1&keywords=sharpie

Alternatively or ultra fine

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-37001WM-Permanent-Marker-12-Pack/dp/B00006IFI3/ref=pd_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=08FBBP33PZV82ZY7AT41


--------------

that's my current setup

One of these amazing rulers would be a great gift too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4P-I8b2rxs

A thread about them recently blew up on this subreddit. The 12" is only $15 on amazon http://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE12-12-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U7/

If you have Amazon Prime, this is the measuring tape I have and I love it. It's cheap, ships free (with Prime) and it's easy to get consistent measurements with.

that's fantastic.

I have this one and it's pretty great: myotape

Soft measuring tapes are really cheap and sooooo worth the investment. Here's one on Amazon for less than $3 with free shipping. If you use the visual guide, it's very easy to figure it out and you only need to measure 5 things! Once you have your measurements, just post it to the subreddit and people can tell you what it means and where to start.

As someone who spent way, way too long in poor fitting bras, I cannot recommend /r/ABraThatFits enough. It literally changed my life. I'm sure other women can attest to that statement as well.

Edit: Take a look at The Bra Band Project as well. It's a real eye-opener!

I see Purple_Crayon pointed you to /r/loseit, you'll find a lot of support there so that's definitely a good place to be.

Far as the pictures. Basically that. You won't see huge changes daily, but if you do weekly or every other week you'll actually be able to see differences over time and it won't be nearly as demoralizing looking at daily pictures seeing very little change.

Also I'll second Purple_Crayon's recommendation of taking measurements when you take your pictures. Pick up something like MyoTape for cheap. Really makes measurements easier.

Sorry for the double up comment, but if you're really interested in a kit, here are each of the tool's they'll give you

Feeler Gauge

Allen Wrench Set (this is actually more comprehensive)

64th inch ruler

Straight Edge (For judging neck relief/bow)

Mini Screwdrivers

String Winder (with wire cutter)

Compare to $60 dollars

$100:(http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html)


This actually seems like a solid deal, but you can get all of these at a hardware store for less and not pay for shipping and wait around for it.

Here's what I would personally recommend for a decent minimum starter set, assuming you're just looking for general homeowner/handywork tools:

• 5-in-1 screwdriver
  
• 16 oz. claw hammer
  
• 6 in. adjustable wrench
  
• Measuring tape
  
• Allen wrenches
  
• Pliers
  
  Those are all solid quality tools that I've personally used in the past. There's obviously tons of other stuff you'll need along the way if you're into fixing things but that's a great starting point.

I really like using a tape measure Like this one . It makes measuring certain areas easier, the auto-retract tightens to "snug" so I am getting a consistent measurement and I am tighten it and keep good posture and then unloop it to read the tape measure.

Just go slow, don't use too much pressure on the blade, and don't be afraid to make multiple passes. As long as you don't shift the straight edge you will get a perfectly clean cut even with three or four passes.

Using lines on the mat will not get you the precision that you need. Use a good square and line it by feel against your already perfect edge. The hardware store square from your garage is probably not actually square enough. Make plenty of layout marks with a sharp scratch awl. Look into the Incra t-square, it's very handy for parallels.

Also here's a method which I haven't tried yet but wish I knew about long ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JAPRs6tx2w

I also would get really overwhelmed whenever I shopped in person. Didn't really go away until I worked on my self-esteem issues some. Shopping online was much easier, especially once I took my measurements.

Buy a tape measure (Amazon link) and get your measurements, most clothing sites will tell you how to measure. And then just look at the website's sizing guide and pick the size that's closest to your measurements. You have a reasonably good chance of getting something that fits well by following the sizing guide and reading the reviews.

the factory edges on a sheet of plywood can be considered straight. Rip the long edges of a sheet of plywood off for the rails of a router flattening setup then rip the factory edged short ends off of the plywood to use as the vertical ribs of the router sled. Spring for a high grade plywood for this sort of thing, baltic birch or other cabinet grade plywood is a pleasure to work with.

Edit 2 more pieces of something straight can be used as winding sticks to make sure your rails when set up don't twist. I recommend a metal straight edge/ruler, these can be had cheaply here: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-ASE-24-Anodized-Aluminum-Straight/dp/B002C29SG6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1414522871&sr=8-4&keywords=straight+edge

I use this body tape measure to do my measurements, but any simple measuring tape will work. I take measurements once a week from bust, under bust, upper arm, upper thigh, waist, hips. This article from Nerd Fitness describes taking measurements (scroll down to the Track Your Body section). Also, pictures are a great way to track progress!

Get a body tape measure, they are fairly cheap, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

​

Look up how to measure your body parts (waist, hips, arms, etc), and track those like you would your weight.

​

I only recently re-started keto, but the last time I was eating keto, there were a couple months that my weight didn't go down, but I could tell from my belt that I was still slimming down. Keto is great for body recomp.

You can order a body comp measuring tape off amazon (don't use a seamstress tape). And there's a whole pile of formulas out there that you can put your measurements in, and it will give you an estimate of your body fat percentage. I did all of them, and picked the one that gave me the most median number (which for me was the US Department of Defense formula). I now just use that formula to track my progress.

I feel like this is the most cost-effective and reasonable method for the majority of people.

edit: I went back and it seems like the one I originally got isn't on Amazon anymore, but it looks exactly like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Mudder-Personal-Calipers-Measure-Fitness/dp/B01B9EJBB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484921416&sr=8-1&keywords=body+fat+tape (I didn't get the calipers).
Found it: https://www.amazon.ca/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484921416&sr=8-3&keywords=body+fat+tape

This is the formula I use: http://www.calculator.net/army-body-fat-calculator.html

And this is the app I use on my phone to calculate and track everything: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.purewowstudio.bodycal

Here's a chart explaining the different ranges: http://cdn.builtlean.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Ideal-Body-Fat-Percentage-Chart1.jpg

Well, if you can visit the building in person, you can get reasonably precise measurements with this or something similar. Not only will it give you point-to-point distance, it has a built-in function to get the height of an object that's not immediately nearby. It's just the pythagorean theorem of course, but it's convenient. And if you need distances greater than 120 ft, there's a more powerful version.

This is what I use. It tells me how much fat I have so I really know how much I'm loosing. Just be sure to do it in the morning before you eat anything and before you drink anything because the pulse will react differently if you have a different amount of water in your body. So if i do it one day right when I wake up then another day after dinner, the reading won't be accurate. I always do it in the morning. I also use one of these to measure my waist, arms, legs, neck, and chest to see where I'm loosing. I'm telling you, your mind plays all kind of weird tricks on you when you're trying to get fit because even though you're working out and eating awesome, you can still feel like nothing is working. For me, I've gotta prove it to myself. Having something to measure my health other than how I feel about myself when I look into the mirror helps.

Definitely do not use White Out lol...you want White Testors Acrylic Plastic Model Paint and I would recommend using thin masking tape to help you from getting paint where you don’t want it to go - when you’re done, use Mod Podge to seal the parts you painted:

Paint

Masking Tape

Mod Podge

Here's a few really good gifts that I got recently:

Highly recommended:

• Gyokucho Ryoba $39
  
• Pocket Tape Measure $4
  
• Trimming Plane $7
  
• Harbor Freight small clamps $3 ea
  
  Other really good ideas:
  
  
• Gyokucho 10" $41
  
• Center Punch $7
  
• Awl $4
  
• Scraper Set $40

Use a different metric. Weight will fluctuate depending on if you're building muscle or retaining water, or any number of variables. Maybe invest in a tape measure? This is about 3.50, and will definitely be a better account on top of the scale.

Also, starving yourself/using meal substitutes to artificially lower your weight may make you feel good when the scale numbers go down, but the side-effects are definitely not worth it (muscle-loss, malnutrition, etc). Be patient, measure your body-fat percentage rather than weight (muscle is denser than fat!) and be diligent. You'll get there, don't get discouraged.

Some good suggestions, but this ruler would be my pick. It is constantly being used when doing precision work. Always in my pocket. Got my dad who is an old school woodworker one, and he loved it.

http://www.amazon.com/INCRA-TINYT03-Precision-T-Rule-3-Inch/dp/B002GU68LM/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

I'm pretty sure any woodworker would like this A LOT

I use this : http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

and I love it, I also paid quite a bit for a good digital scale, different ways to measure progress, but for 6 bucks you can't go wrong!

Jigsaw - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-JS515-Variable-Jigsaw/dp/B001CL4ZHK/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629429&sr=1-3&keywords=jigsaw

Bits - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-71-081-Screwdriving-10-Piece/dp/B000RH3DW8/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629356&sr=1-5&keywords=power+drill

Power Drill - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DR260B-8-Inch-Driver/dp/B004FRXWRW/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629356&sr=1-4&keywords=power+drill

Tape measure - http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629447&sr=1-7&keywords=tape+measure

Square - http://www.amazon.com/Swanson-SO101-7-inch-Speed-Square/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629470&sr=1-1&keywords=square

You actually will have some more money for clamps and wood to make projects. There's a lot you can make for yourself with just these things and some creativity. Plus, it'll let you be pretty handy around the house.

You might take a look at getting one of the tape measures with a peg (kinda like this ) I've found that (with the exception of shoulders) it helps a TON!

I'd take the last couple of days before the end of the WLC off from OTF, to give your muscles a chance to shed the water tht they're likely retaining!

Not sure if she's into technology, but I love my Leica Disto.

I have one of those, and the %BF it reports varies wildly day-to-day, by several percent. As such, I've found it pretty much useless.

I've found a simple waist measurement to be a much more consistent measure of BF progress, even though it doesn't directly correspond to a % number. If you want a fancy gadget, I bought this for a few bucks and it makes body measurement easier and more consistent.

Hard to tell from the image, but this one should have both. I have one bought from somewhere and it's awesome to have both scales handy.

Looking good so far! I have that same seat on mine and affixed it with a bungee cord to the stock seat. I adhered this tape measure on the side for easy fish measurements. Also maybe add some more gear tracks on the gunwales. Man I want to take mine out now.

MyoTape - very useful.

And I agree.

I have experienced the same anxieties. If you are exercising regularly or incorporating weights into your program - try to only weigh yourself every week or two (on Sundays in the AM, for example.)

Also invest in some Measuring Tape to get a better idea of progress. The scale can be really toxic, but if you are paying closer attention to your measurements and how your body feels in general then hopefully the anxiety will lessen! Muscle weighs more than fat, so the scale can be pretty useless once exercise becomes more of your daily routine.

Measurements can be a huge motivator. I just posted on this a couple days ago.


https://www.reddit.com/r/loseit/comments/4u9e34/this_is_why_you_take_measurements/



If you don't have a measuring tape, I strongly recommend the MyoTape : https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1469465289&sr=8-1&keywords=myotape

There's a black on on Amazon for $15. It's not "contractor grad", but it's probably ok. Same brand. The red one is on Amazon, as well.

i like these, you can do your measuring with one hand.

I have a scale similar to that. I weighed myself for weeks everyday at same time and then multiple times a day. The body fat reading would vary day to day between 12% and 19%. Other scales might be more consistent though.

I have used the more expensive inbody ones at my gym and the hospital I work at. Those seem to be more consistent but each one gives fairly different results. For example the one at my gym typically reads me out at 13% body fat. The one at the hospital reads me out at around 16%. The difference could be that I measure at the gym at 6pm and at work i'm doing it around lunch time.

My advice is to take measurements instead using something like:

• This
  
• Or this
  
• Or this
  
  Track it all on a spreadsheet. I have one if you want one. If you have the cash though for the scale I would just get a wireless one that transmits the data to your phone so it tracks weight and such without having to write it down (if you are lazy about that). The body fat part could just be "something interesting" to see but not something you take stock in.

I've only tracked inches since i started Keto. I used this tape measure that came w/ a scale before only to realize that it didn't give an accurate number since there was around 3 inches that went unmeasured. my best guess was that I was 50 inches before maybe 51 in waist and now I jump between 44 and 45 inches.

I have three of these in my shop. Extremely durable, IMO the best tape you can buy for shop use. I have a 25' and 30' version for outside the shop stuff, also.

Stanley 33-312 12 Powerlock Tape Rule https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X2GN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FlLhzbH6G8W4K


Edit- make sure you get the 33-312 (as opposed to the 33-212) with the 3/4" wide blade, rather than 1/2" wide. No comparison in the two tapes, if you ask me.

For those looking.


QUICKDRAW DIY Self Marking 25' Foot Tape Measure - 1st Measuring Tape with a Built in Pencil - Best Steel Tape - Power Locking Tape Ruler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P14T90W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lvhDbQ1XHBJ2

Here
QUICKDRAW DIY Self Marking 25' Foot Tape Measure - 1st Measuring Tape with a Built in Pencil - Best Steel Tape - Power Locking Tape Ruler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P14T90W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F-AmDb3FY3S46

They make a special tape measure that connects back to itself. I will try to find it and edit my comment

Edit: like this http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

Looks great.

Add these.

Swap the iFixIt out for their new model, it's MUCH nicer.

Other things I'd throw in:

• For those times you need to figure out how far that cable run really is? Bosch Laser Measure
  
• Occasionally one needs to take apart big things (like racks!), for that you need a nice fat(max) screwdriver
  
• 3 port USB 3.0 hub and Gig Ethernet because you never know when you might need to hardware (and Macbook Air's suck for # of USB ports).
  
  While pricey, I'd also swap duct tape for gaffing tape. Terribly useful, rips easier and doesn't leave residue (unless you leave it there for a REALLY long time).

It's been a while since I looked into this and I don't do it myself. I see people recommending this laser measure with bluetooth.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K5UDI5O/
I don't remember the apps recommended, but you can try a couple and find the ones that you think are best for you. I can't see it being difficult, but everybody is different. There are ones with 4 lasers which measure each room in one shot.

No problem, glad it was helpful.

This the laser measurer that I use: Leica Disto E7100i

This is the case I mentioned: New Trent I recommend this case for every iPad.

Yeah, they cost ~6 bucks on amazon. Here is what I purchased for tracking my measurements.

Body Measuring Tape on Amazon

Calipers on Amazon

The combined stress of all 6 (or 7) strings of your guitar is quite a bit of force for the neck to resist. A minor change in the string tension shouldn't greatly affect your neck action. If your neck was a noodle it would go out of tune when you bent a note. Also the change in stress the neck of your guitar feels by changing from 9 to 10's is probably small compared to the amount of stress induced by thermal variations your guitar experiences during the day. If your guitar buzzes like hell with 10's, it probably buzzes like hell with 9's. Just saying.

• Pro-tip 1: how to tell when to intonate your guitar? When the intonation is off.
  
  
• Pro-tip 2: how to tell when to set the action on your guitar? When the action is off.
  
  These things aren't really separate, but all fall under the umbrella of "guitar setup". Setting up a guitar takes time, practice and experience. There are several variables at play here, namely: height of the nut, height of the saddle, bow of the neck (i.e. truss rod). Also involved are height of the pickups, height of the frets, evenness of the frets, radius of the fretboard. If you have a properly setup guitar and you want to then adjust the intonation, it is fairly easy. If you want to adjust the action, it is fairly easy. If you want to do one or the other with a guitar that is poorly setup, then changing one will probably greatly change the other.
  
  Here is an image that I made a number of years ago for the deanguitars.com/forum. I made it because it seemed that everyone was trying to get their action as low as possible with no fret buzzing, but they weren't getting the results they wanted: everyone instinctively wanted to put the bridge as low as it would go, and use the truss rod to put enough of a curve in the neck to stop buzzing. Doing the opposite gives much better results: http://imgur.com/mhMOu Maybe this image will help you, maybe not. (note that I'm not saying that you want a "flat" fretboard, I am just saying that higher saddle height and "less" curve of the neck can give much better action).
  
  
• pro tip 3: the hardest part about truss rod adjusting is remembering which direction to turn to achieve which results. I won't try to confuse you by telling you which way to turn. Do your research, understand the truss rod of your guitar, experiment, and learn how it works and write down in a piece of paper which way to turn your truss rod and put it in the case of your guitar. never remove this piece of paper.
  
  If you are serious about setting up your guitars action, do not delay and buy one of these:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-300-Precision-Stainless/dp/B00004T7SW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1311814731&sr=8-4
  
  You will need something that measures the action of your guitar to the 1/64 th of an inch. Rather than relying on "feel" as you drunkenly adjust one of the many variables controlling your guitars action, you can quantitatively measure it and know exactly how a quarter turn of your truss rod changes things.
  
  
• pro-tip 4: It's a guitar, not a nuclear reactor. There are no moving parts, no heavy machinery, no risk of losing a finger or burning down your house if you get it wrong. Play with it. Take it all apart, put it back together. If you can't, ask for help and learn. See what works, see what doesn't. Every guitar is different, there are no hard-and-fast rules. Cheers. (btw, I don't want to seem like a know it all choch here, just want to help, but have had a few beers, and don't have internet so am quickly typing this out using tethering from my work blackberry which has precariously small dataplan so am kind of rushed).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G7YW7Y/ is half the price and is very similar. It's very convenient to use and only needs one hand to "activate" once the loop is closed.

Get this one! Super easy to use.

http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

https://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE06-6-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U5

https://www.amazon.com/T-RULE06-6-Inch-Precision-Marking-T-Rule/dp/B00004TRBW

https://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE12-12-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U7

these are my favorite tools for measuring in the shop. might go for the 3 inch t-rule this year.

A marking rule is good for smaller things: https://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE12-12-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U7

These are way easier: http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420820160&sr=8-1&keywords=self-measuring+tape

This recent invention could help you finally determine your accurate height: you're welcome

For measuring girth, I recommend something like this it's much more accurate

For use with a saw, it would be kerf-dependent -- put in a different blade, and it might not be accurate any longer. I bought two Starrett adhesive-backed rulers, like this, one left-to-right and one right-to-left, to use on both sides of my miter saw. But I decided I needed a way to calibrate them to any blade, just like on my table saw. So the plan is on hold.

Get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

I got one and it revolutionized my body measuring.. As long as you measure in the same place each time, it's quite consistent.

Thx for the info. I just bought this one due to your post.

Those are nice but this is a far more accurate caliper

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002X2GQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495863708&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tape+measure&dpPl=1&dpID=41RWEfPSKQL&ref=plSrch


It's used for precision inspection by real machinists!

This thing is fabulous. It lets you take the measurements yourself, keeping the tension consistent each time.

It's for measuring circumference. The plastic pin inserts into the opposite end of the handle to create a loop.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G7YW7Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1478228794&sr=8-1&keywords=myotape&pi=SY200_QL40#immersive-view_1478228850336

I got mine on Amazon... E.g. Alvin R590-36 36 inch Flexible Stainless Steel Ruler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UQ3REA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KqjIyb0VXKVCN

Does anyone have any recommendations for a tape for measuring neck/waist circumference? I'd prefer one of the lockable ones over a standard tape measure for ease of use.

I've got one of these but because its got a self winder as soon as I unhook it to check the measurement it winds back up a few cm which obviously skews the measurement.

That's why I bought this baby off of Amazon a year or two ago. Even when the scale doesn't go down, my waist measurement very consistently went down. Now I try to only weigh myself once every two or three weeks, while I measure my waist every three days.

Found on amazon. Some not-so-great reviews ... https://www.amazon.com/QUICKDRAW-Self-Marking-Foot-Measure/dp/B00P14T90W/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3E2TZDUEL71Y6&keywords=quickdraw+measuring+tape&qid=1556038526&s=gateway&sprefix=Quickdraw%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-1#customerReviews

I have one where you can attach the end of it to the part that retracts, so you can measure around yourself without help. Here's one I found on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

How about, hold everything else constant like exercise routine and sleep patterns etc. Take fat caliper and tape measurements and post before/after measurements?

http://www.amazon.com/Sequoia-Fitness-TrimCal-4000-Caliper/dp/B00B2MIDFY/

http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/

Challenge would be to lose x% bodyfat or y total inches.

The tape measure is soft, but it's one of these types: https://smile.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/

Where would a product like this be ranked?

Do NOT buy this. It comes with 5 drills/drivers/impacts. Here is what you need:




http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT314W-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-Piece/dp/B005C95E2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007466&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+drill+driver+combo+kit




http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007519&sr=1-2&keywords=compound+miter+saw




http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC75TRS-7-5-Amp-Reciprocating/dp/B004V327PS/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007539&sr=1-9&keywords=sawzall





http://www.amazon.com/WEN-61720-4-Inch-2-Inch-18-Gauge/dp/B000EJW1ZY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007628&sr=1-1&keywords=brad+nailer





http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCFP02003-3-5-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B00BMUGQNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007761&sr=1-1&keywords=air+compressor




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-100-10-Piece-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B0000950PN/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007815&sr=1-4&keywords=screwdriver+set




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-51-624-20-Ounce-Fiberglass-Hammer/dp/B000VSSG2K/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007879&sr=1-3&keywords=hammer+set




http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits




http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-425-Powerlock-25-Foot-Measuring/dp/B00002X2GQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457008034&sr=1-1&keywords=tapemeasure

invest in a myotape under $10 on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Blades-IBQD25F-1-QuickDraw-Contractor/dp/B00P14T90W

I used this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Masking-Tape-2pcs-Refill/dp/B00J3TLZQC

To do this: https://i.redd.it/rt3x5guaqtq31.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Powerlock-25ft-Tape-Rule/dp/B00002X2GQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501611122&sr=8-3&keywords=tape+measure

I use this for my measurements btw, with help... actually needed to measure tonight for a question here.

MyoTape Body Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J9k-Ab8WVGDWN

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G7YW7Y/


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

Incra t rule

Perhaps you should consider buying one of these before your next big purchase

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002X2GQ/ref=s9_top_hm_b2Jvw_g469_i1

I use one of these and measure at the same time each day

MyoTape for sure! Sometimes your weight will plateau and that can be incredibly frustrating. However, if you have taken measurements, you can compare that and almost always you will find that you have lost inches instead. I highly recommend measuring all the basics (hips, waist, bust, thigh and bicep).

A saw, drill with bits, measuring tape.

These are some of the tools I have. They are, admittedly, more aggressive than what you might need for your first project but it should give you an idea of were to start from.

Nope, I spent like $6 to get the equipment to do it.

I use a tape measure and the Navy body fat calcuator. Specifically, I use this and this.

i used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3TLZQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Placed it on cutting mat and used an Xacto to get little shapes.

Air brushed each layer.

paints: xv-88, tau ochre, and a brown lightly darker than the xv-88

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y?ie=UTF8&keywords=tape%20measure&qid=1462593283&ref_=sr_1_3_s_it&s=hpc&sr=1-3

It prevents me from pulling too tight or too loose.

I didn't use any books, I just watched the video. I saw the beginning where the guy showed how the slot isn't square, and thought "I can make a cut that isn't square."
I used this, one of these, these, and a pencil.

/r/GetMotivated
helps some on bad days

I have found having a sticky note countdown + full body mirror helps me want to keep going. latch on to your goal and use it like an anchor , and don't be afraid of a plateau. its basically your body redistributing fat.
most people still see inches come off the waistline and everywhere else, the scale lies during a plateau if it worries you that much, get a tape measure.