(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best oils

I'm not a professional mechanic, but I have an '83 240D, and here's a few of my tips:

Have you done a valve adjustment? This can make a huge difference on running smoothness. It's not too hard of a job, but I would recommend having a second set of hands. It's nice to have someone with the feeler gauges at the ready to measure while you still have the wrenches on the adjustment screws. You're going to want the special wrenches like these. Usually you can get them on ebay cheaper.

I like using the Diesel Purge product. Pretty simple to do, and only takes a half hour or so. There are quite a few YouTube videos out there about how to do it on a w123 chassis. Change both fuel filters after the diesel purge.

Differential fluid is easy to do, but being you're in the salt might make cracking those plugs difficult.

Cold starts with diesel are always fun, but just a simple thing is when were the glow plugs last replaced? If you're doing the valve adjustment, you're already in teh general area and might as well change them out if it hasn't been done in some time. (Some people say they get 200k+ out of them.) Be sure to get the glow plug reamer as well to clear it out and get that carbon out of the threads.

I HAVE THE SAME BIKE!
Mine is a GS450TX


TL;DR = fix bike fairly quickly and just ride :)


I hope this helps.

(INCOMING WALL OF TEXT!)

2 years ago I cut my mufflers off and mounted Emgo Shorty's. I also replaced my air box with Uni foam pods. I re-jetted the pilot from 17.5 to 20. I moved the main jet up from 115 to 122.5. I briefly cleaned the carbs with the spray parts cleaner, set the air mixture screws to 3 turns, and reassembled the bike. It ran like crap because I took so many shortcuts. I spent a couple weeks riding and fighting with the bike then I parked it for winter. 2 years went by and I didn't even want to deal with the crappy state my bike was in so I left it parked until we moved (better school zone for kids).

Once we got settled I brought my bike home and started tearing it down.
I spent a couple weeks doing the following:

• Downloaded manual = https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=2370B62DDF9F0C6B%211334&authkey=%21APM7hx6Q2ynLu-A
  
  
  
• Properly cleaned the carbs (soaking them for 12 hours in original Pine Sol (50/50 mix with water) cleaned them better than any other parts cleaner I've used in the past). All of the rubber on the carbs were in excellent shape, so I lucked out there. Rinse with mild soapy water then hit each part for 1 minute with toothbrush. Rinse with water and reassemble. Adjust air mixture screws to 2 turns out.
  
  Bench-sync slide/butterfly valves PDF Guide = http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/gs450_carb_cleaning_guide.pdf
  
  Parts = https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1982/gs450t/carburetor
  
  Rebuild = https://youtu.be/w16in05ANN4
  
  Soak = https://youtu.be/zDkOgnPidPs
  
  Bench-sync = https://youtu.be/AS77T2CUsjI
  
  
  
• Changed Jets to: pilot = 22.5 / main = 130
  http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/suzuki_450_GS450S.html
  
  
  
• Carb boots + o-ring were still in good shape so I left them alone.
  Test boots for leaks = https://youtu.be/XzjSEYB9RDU
  
  
  *Modified Uni foam pods: 1) removed half of the inside lip with an knife so the air intake circuit wouldn't be partially obstructed 2) Temporarily restricted Uni pods by taping a ziplock bag around the sides and cutting the bag away from the back end so air intake would be smooth.
  
  
  
• Removed gas tank and filled it with a 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar & water for 24 hours (be sure to remove gas cap and petcock and tape closed). Drain mixture from petcock hole, take a picture of 1lb of rust chunks and post on Reddit for easy karma :) Fill tank 25% with water from garden hose and shake for 1 minute solid. Drain and repeat x10. Ok, last time add 1/2 cup of baking soda/powder to neutralize vinegar. Rinse clean.
  Clean tank = https://youtu.be/UpaGo_nq5Rk
  
  
  
• Test petcock vacuum before reinstalling. Suck in vacuum tube and plug with finger. Test Reserve, Fuel, and Prime settings. The latter should be the only one that allows air to flow without sucking on the vacuum tube. My petcock's diaphragm was ruptured so I replaced it. Pro Tip: don't by the cheap $20 replacement from Amazon. It is crap and constantly leaks fuel on all settings once fuel begins to flow... even when no hoses are attached. Find the OEM replacement for $45 and move on.
  
  
  
• Install new fuel/vacuum/vent hoses on carb. Also get a cheap kit from Amazon that has an inline fuel filter and cutoff valve. (This will make draining and carb maintenance easy) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXH6Z7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tse1CbD0V0DY3
  
  
  
• Test battery charging system = https://youtu.be/njky7cNEdYU
  
  
  
• Change engine oil = https://youtu.be/Opqbbqfxmsk (use Lucas semi synthetic 10w-40 to aid with shifting due to wet clutch)
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KWGA10?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  
  
  
• Buy a Seal Mate (or make from plastic container) to fix fork seals if dirty = https://youtu.be/8wlzfoVroSY
  
  
  
• Change fork oil = https://youtu.be/81hWzXOAvww (use Lucas semi synthetic 10w if under 200lbs, and 15w if over 200lbs. Also, when you refill fork oil compress forks completely, with springs removed, and fill to 6 inches from top)
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDW7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Pye1CbGHFE87B (buy locally at O'Reilly's cheaper)
  
  
  
• Change tires = https://youtu.be/D8MFXZr36hs
  (I found a great deal on Kenda Dual Sport K761's at http:/denniskirk.com Front = 100/90-19. Rear = 120/90-17.
  Tools needed = Spoons with 2 Rim Protectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZN5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QEe1CbCMX9JBM
  Balance tires easy = E-Z Tire Beads Motorcycle Kit, Ceramic Balancing 2 oz Front + 2 oz Rear. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VOAOSDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hDe1Cb8QTNKYF
  
  
  Other notable links:
  
  The GS Resources = https://www.thegsresources.com/
  
  GS Forum = http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/index.php
  
  Bike Cliff's site = http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
  
  Parts = https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/l/suz/50d3f2caf8700230d8b4bf8c/1982-gs450tx-parts
  
  
  *** After all this maintenance, my bike starts easily, sounds incredible, shifts wonderfully, is very reliable, and a hell-of-a-lot of fun!
  
  
  ~Best of luck friend~

For Skyactiv engines, it is highly recommended that you use Mazda's own(Idemitsu) high molly GF-5 0w-20. Arguably it is one of the best oil for skyactiv engines

• Maintenance Schedule 14+
  
• DIY Oil Change Guide
  
• Oil Related Questions
  
• Mazda Shop Manual & Repair Guide
  
• Places To Buy Mazda's Own GF-5: Amazon 12pk or friend of the subreddit Mazda Swag for 1qt @ $6.50
  
• Oil Filter Part Number 1WPE-14-302 &
  
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I use Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil . It's an overkill for a cruze; but since this car has already been hit 4 times since a month after I bought it; I like to treat it to something nice. The filter on my old drain plug was a 10 mm, use a combination wrench to get it off, not a socket. The filter cap takes a 24 mm drain plug socket.

I should mention I have a 2015.

I pair it with a K&N filter from amazon every 4 months. You can get both on a discount with their subscribe and save program.

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550045195-Platinum-quart-Mileage/dp/B01MF97JE5/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=penzoil+high+mileage+5w-30&qid=1574111273&sr=8-4

I imagine they bled any air out, however that might be something to make sure is done (let me know if you need those details). You could also opt to get a PS conditioner like Royal Purple (which I love), a turkey baster or hand pump, and a plastic container like a water bottle.. and then pull fluid and replace, cycle through with the car on, and then repeat again. I'd also suggest inspecting the pulley, belt/tension. The last thing that comes to mind currently is that it would be a good idea to make sure your mounts are good and not allowing for severe & excessive movement.

These are great, great bikes, I have a plated '05 300exc and it rips. You could put some road oriented tyres on it and carry a bottle of 2t oil with you with a little mixing bottle, and you'd be pretty much all set.

Having said that, commuting on these is kinda average. They'll do it, the bike will be fine, you'll be fine although they vibrate a fair bit at stop lights. For me I would rather commute on a road bicycle or a cheap second bike, or if traffic wasn't an issue then a cheap car. Then I can keep the exc exclusively for good times. Just my 2c.

So would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Rotella-550019913-Triple-Protection-15W-40/dp/B001B16NP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466903849&sr=8-1&keywords=shell+rotella+15w40

I don't know much above this, so it is fine using 15W-40, even if the manual recommends 10W-40.
And what about 5W-40 for the winter, as the above reply mentioned?

And also, I tend to go to places that is ethanol free for gas. Thanks for the help.

OP make sure to read this and understand, your bike has a wet clutch. So you can't use regular car oil, at least most of it. Make sure it says "Motorcycle" or "Wet Clutch Safe" on it to be safe.

https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=node%3D15719391&field-keywords=motorcycle

I used Syn oil when I had a motorcycle. Seem to run a little cooler.
Here is a Semi-Syn 10w30 motorcycle oil for a good price...
https://smile.amazon.com/Castrol-Actevo-10W-30-Synthetic-Motorcycle/dp/B008MISCN4/

So...how much do you ride? If you were like me and ride enough to warrant changing the oil once or twice a year...then buying better oil is SOOO not cost prohibitive.

In my 2012 Tiger 800 xc, I've only ever used Red Line Motorcycle Oil Yes it's a little more expensive than cheap oil but it's not super expensive, especially because the XC only takes 3.6 liters for a full change which is just under 1 gallon.

Honestly though, at 55 dollars a year putting good oil in your bike isn't ridiculously expensive.

Also, check the manual for what octane fuel it suggests. Usually they suggest higher octane than you could normally get at the usual petrol station. And check for what oil it recommends and ask him what he used, try find out if it was a cheap shitty oil or not, I'd suggest Castrol always has a nice smell to it and never had any issues with it.

I used the Shell V Power in my Aprillia RS125, never noticed anything different but it was recommended.

Edit: If you do buy a 2T, buy your oil in bulk, like £50s worth or so at a time. Will save you money long term.

AMAZON-WALMART (DIRECT) VS AMAZON-WALMART (RESELLERS)

AMAZON: always check for products amazon prime: https://www.amazon.com/Sinopec-Hydraulic-10-5-Gallon-Pail/dp/B0157STBH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482849700&sr=8-1&keywords=aw+46

WALMART: always check for products sold by walmart:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/AW-46-Hydraulic-Oil-Fluid-ISO-VG-46-SAE-15-5-Gallon-Pail/54045743



Here is how it works - with resellers

1. You import products to your online site
   
2. Your customers view the products, do a regular checkout and place the order on your online site
   
3. You collect the payment and fulfill the order
   Amazon/Walmart is not the drop-shipper. You are responsible for sourcing the products and delivering to your customers. You have to provide customer service.
   This option is best suited for people who sell products.
   We do not recommend drop-shipping for those who are looking to place manual order on online in response to their customers placing an order on your site. It leads to fulfillment and customer service issues.
   

What kind of work are you doing?

Also I'm guessing for the price point you're shooting with DSLRs, have you considered going the video monopod route instead? I got one of these not long ago and I really love it, combined with a stabilizer for shots when I have/want to move it works perfectly for my workflow, and doesn't restrict me in the same way a shoulder rig does, and lets me get beautiful stable fluid pan and tilts.

It's worth noting also that gimbals have come down in price so much over the last year, when the movi first came out it was pretty unobtainable but now with the ronin and other competitors it's becoming a lot more realistic, and I think for lightweight videography shoulder rigs may start to become a thing of the past.

Food for thought anyway.

I have used Red Line before with success in high heat conditions. My old Harley was air cooled, and could get blistering hot on a summer day stuck in traffic.


Heat can break any oil down fast, so again you may want to do oil changes twice as often as the recommended interval, just to play it safe.


Red line on Amazon:


https://amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077Y2CJKC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2UUWCCR4G5EFA&psc=1

I buy my Valvoline 0W-20 on Amazon, usually around $20 for a 5-qt jug. I ended up with a Subaru dealer coupon and bought a case of oil filters to keep on hand, but Amazon has those too.

I couldn't tell if you if I'm getting the best deal around but between Prime and their Chase card, it works for me. Never seen them out of stock either.

Jesus. That's terrible. Don't go to a dealer.


https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-15208AA15A-Oil-Filter/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523047&sr=8-1&keywords=crosstrek+oil+filter

Filter : 8.50

https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523075&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+valve

Fumoto 25 bucks so you have a clean easy drain for when you keep doing it in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038221-Platinum-5W-30-Synthetic/dp/B00ELHNM3K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523115&sr=8-3&keywords=pennzoil+ultra+platinum+5w30

35 for pennzoil oil thats way better than whatever generic shit theyre pumping into your car.

So its 44 bucks for the oil and the filter for premium oil. 70 with the sweet valve that will make it a snap for the rest of your life.


Also, if you're considering paying 79 for a cabin air filter FYI you can get one for 12 bucks on amazon and pop out your glove box in 3 minutes and do it yourself.

http://www.amazon.com/Eneos-3261310-ILSAC-Certified-Synthetic/dp/B00ABYE54C/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1374817180&sr=1-2&keywords=5w-30+oil

No matter what, thanks for the possibility of help, you're a good person. I hope whoever on here needs help can get it from people like you and continue the chain of kindness!

There are other ones on there too if shipping puts this above 30 dollars, I'll have to check again but a couple of quart sized bottles would do the trick too methinks

$47 for the oil and $13 for the filter. Labor is free because I usually do it in the parking lot of any auto store and then drop the oil into their free oil dispense containers. lol

You can buy this fogging oil to spray into your cylinders (through the spark plug hole) to lubricate the cylinders prior to startup.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22001-Fogging-Oil-av/dp/B000H7CKAY

I highly recommend doing this and hand turning it over a few times. Also, be sure to lubricate your camshaft as well. I like to use ZDDP additive so I coated each rocker and the camshaft lobes with it.

You can possibly prime the oil pump too, but that requires removing the cover and trying to turn the pump with a long driver that will bypass the gear on the intermediate shaft. I haven't been able to do it.

Yep. These cars eat oil. Every 500miles I put 1/4qt of oil or every 1000miles 1/2qt. Check out this oil. I’ve heard good things about it and I’ve been using it Liqui Moly 2331 Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 1qt they also sell 5qts

It's because those higher end cars require higher end oils, specifically higher end oils that can take more heat before deteriorating. When they add a turbo it will frequently require this higher end oil because the oil gets into the very hot turbo, and if it deteriorates there it will destroy the turbo. Since they have oil that won't deteriorate under heat, they also add extra additives so it does it's job longer. As for what makes the oil perform well with heat, it's mostly that they require that the compounds that burn and turn into coke at lower temperatures are not present in the oil, thus it's completely composed of high temperature rated compounds (that is what synthetic oil is for the most part).

The German cars like to rate their oil changes assuming you put in the high end oils (and in doing so, they will also require that you use it), the cheaper brands of cars rate their engines assuming you use cheaper oil (but most new cars are 5-7.5k, not 3k, even with cheap oil). If you put the high end oil into these cars they will generally do fine to 15k, just like the BMWs (but you really need the engineers from the engine design team to tell you it's ok). However, many of the synthetic oils do just claim that it will extend you to 15k, Mobil 1 even guarantees it

Can anyone recommend (or tell me to stay away from) Mobil 1 Ext Full Synthetic?

Yes. This is the 5 Liter jug Liqui Moly Synthetic Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 and this is the link for the 1L bottles

Edit: Here’s my post about Liqui Moly Synthetic Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 Motor Oil

Rotella used to be the go to but they changed their formula. Now I use Motul 8100 paired with a Subaru oem filter and crush washer and have had no issues at all and the car seems to enjoy it.

Edit: spelling, and I get the filter from a dealership as well as the crush washer which I believe is around $7-$8 for the pair

I think I'd run the carbs dry. Tank your bike up and add stabil to the fuel. Now go ride it until it's almost empty (or just siphon out stabilized gas but c'mon man it's a good excuse to go ride a tankful) .. then put it on res and let it idle for a few minutes until it burns off the last bit of gas in the carbs. Spray a fogging oil or whatever you have handy inside the tank. I can usually find "fogging oil" at a marine shop or sometimes a well stocked auto place.

While you're at it you may as well spray down the inside of the engine too. What the hell.

Here are the KLR manual specs

Here are the Shell Rotella 15w40 specs

You'll notice that the Rotella 15w40 oil meets the requirements set by Kawasaki by being compliant with [API SH, SJ, or SL] with JASO MA. It has the necessary additives.

TLDR: buy shell rotella 15w40 heavy diesel oil at walmart for $12/gallon, change oil every 2000-2500 miles. Still cheaper than $9/quart

Edit: you can just get it all on amazon.

• Hi-Flo 123 oil filter for $4.17
  
• Shell Rotella 15w40 1 Gallon for $12.97

It would be tricky to get something that smooth without a fluid head tripod.

You could use something like a DJI Osmo gimbal if you needed something really compact to get this sort of shot. It won't be as steady or as smooth as a tripod (you may need to use warp stabalizer to smooth it out further if you wanted to mimic the tripod movement).

Other gimbals are available of course, though not all gimbals support manual pan/tilt control (some only do one or the other) so make sure you do your research.

If you've got money to burn, then you can get a monopod with a fluid head which would be a lot eaisier to carry around versus a full set of sticks - not as stable though!

This is what I do on my MK6. You cannot beat the price!

Motul 007250 8100 X-cess 5W-40 Synthetic Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oil - 5 Liter Jug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LEYIQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_DR8Izb3RH6NR0

Mann-Filter W 719/45 Spin-on Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZGCSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_.T8Izb5JM5AKP

I personally run [this](Motul 007250 8100 X-cess 5W-40 Synthetic Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oil - 5 Liter Jug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LEYIQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y9bsDbMKPH5RA). What I ended up on after going through a few forum threads on the main veloster turbo form. I'm at a convention and don't have a ton of time atm, but when I can I'll see if I can find some of those articles and link them to to you.

Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40.

http://www.amazon.com/Motul-007250-X-cess-Synthetic-Gasoline/dp/B004LEYIQ8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2G1KNLIESDI4I&coliid=I2PTVL0XKSDALG

1x https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-engine-oil-filter-11427583220

2x https://www.amazon.com/Motul-007250-X-cess-Synthetic-Gasoline/dp/B004LEYIQ8

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004LEYIQ8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

This right here

Sure....46

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEYIQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM oil filters are so cheap there's no reason not to use them, in my opinion. Amazon sells a six pack of them for $27.

Also, the oil could be burning because it's too thin. I have been using Motul 8100 xcess 5w40, which my tuner Yimisport recommended, in my 2012 STI and I've had basically zero consumption over the last two years.

Finally, a big step toward solving oil consumption is using an air-oil-separator. The stock configuration returns oil to the engine via the intake, which ends up getting in your intercooler and ultimately burning in the combustion cycle. An AOS strips the oil from this air and returns it via a drip back into the engine block. It never needs emptying like an oil catch can either. Crawford and Perrin both make them now. Grimspeed makes a cheaper, smaller design but I've read it doesn't work as effectively.