(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best powerline network adapters

Haha, I try, I try.

Damn, what a bummer. Good luck with the new plugs. I can't give advice on the smart plug I have (it's TP-Link) since I've only had it a couple weeks. But it's been great so far. Also, this dude compiled reviews for a few of the different smart plugs available. Check it out for some solid analysis.

Yeah, definitely consider getting a powerline adapter system. Mine was super cheap, the starter kit was $35 on Amazon. Then just add more adapters. I think you can add up to 8 adapters, but don't quote me on that. I'm not sure which brand is the best if you're running more than one receiver. In any case, would ensure you always have a solid connection on your rigs. Solid investment when you consider the cost of downtime, especially across 4 rigs.

Looks like your automation is great. So your rigs must be constantly powering on and off because the wifi is down? That's frustrating.

What cards are you considering for your 5th rig? And how did you end up getting the 1070tis? Newegg? Or a distributor?

Let me know what all it took to get that many rigs running once your electrician comes by. I'm considering upping from just the one to several and I'm sure I'll need to find an electrical solution for my apartment. The good news is I get free electricity, but I'm not sure the wall plugs could handle me pulling that much juice.

The bad news:

Wifi sucks for media distribution. While many routers will do 802.11 a/b/g/n speeds, they'll mostly only do one at a time. So if you have just one slow device in the house requiring a/b speeds, it's going to drag your real-world transfer speeds into the 150kbps range and even SD video will stutter.

Most "smart" TVs aren't. Many brand new smart panels/BD players have poor codec support and abysmal interfaces.

The good news:

All of this is fixable. As for moving files, you can find and disable the slow device that's dragging down your wireless network. In my case, it ended up being a wireless printer. Alternately, you can pull an ethernet cable from your server to the TV, or do ethernet over AC.

As for smartening up your TV, you have several options. The free one is to keep using the PC that's currently connected to it. It's not really putting any "strain" on the CPU, since unless it's an ancient machine, video playback is handled with no real effort by the GPU. If you want a standalone device, I've tried dozens of set-top players over the years and have found the WD TV units to be as close to perfect as anybody has gotten. Codec support is very good, the interface is acceptable, and they play nice with network shares.

However, if you're willing to spend a bit more, you can get a full-fledged windows PC that is even smaller and more capable. I currently use two gigabyte brix systems in my house. Toss in 4GB of RAM and a cheap SSD and you can have a complete system for about $200. Using a good media player like MPC-HC this will handle anything you throw at it.

ITT: people who must be rural where wi-fi is clear but electrical wiring is flaky.

Grab these. They're like what I'm using. I hope you have the same great results: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EO5A4TI

Make sure your wiring is to code; but if you're getting good 80mbit speeds now, you could be good. Remember the Homeplug speeds are also half-duplex. Also, the AC2000s are crap still, so stick with 1000-1300s.

I've used Homeplug gear (corinex, but then netgear, d-link, and now a lot of tp-link) for about 9 years in 6 different locations, and the signal clarify isn't always inversely related to the age of the wiring if it's after 1975 (the copper revolution). Now I maintain it in my mom and mother-in-law's houses just because I don't have to suffer freakin' radio voodoo anymore when netflix goes out.

The only streaming AT&T Sports Nets does is for authenticated cable and satellite subscribers. Pirates games are available on mlb.tv 3 hours after completion. Similar restrictions apply to Penguins games on nhl.tv.

FOX 8 Johnstown is on ABC's digital subchannel, 23.2, so it should be no problem, but it looks like you won't get reception for The CW in Johnstown because of the mountains. I think The CW puts new episodes online the next day.

You're right, NFL Network games are simulcast on CBS for the first 8 games and NBC for the second 8 games. They'll be streamed this season on Amazon Prime.

I'm no ethernet expert either, but apparently you can use a converter to make use of your existing coaxial wiring. However, you'd need converters on each of the other ends to re-convert the coaxial back to Ethernet to plug them into computers, Smart TVs, and streaming devices. And many versions of streaming devices like Roku and FireTV -- as well as laptops, tablets, and smartphonesj -- don't have ethernet ports and work off wifi. Either way, your internet will be split by however many devices are using it, so I recommend a new combo modem/wifi router with a wide signal range.

Another concern would be data caps, but I assume you have Atlantic Broadband, and luckily it doesn't have data caps.

Good luck!

Just to confirm, the room is not outside the house from the drawing, correct? I would personally use a Wifi-Extender and see if that works. How big is your house in sq ft to your room? (meaning how much square feet does it take from your router/modem to your room)

What type of router/modem do you use? I use a Wifi Extender in my house as well. I currently use a Netgear one which is this https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-EX2700/dp/B00R92CL5E?th=1 that goes up to 1000ft but you can get less or more depending on price. (Amazon has this exact model for 600 sq.ft currently on sale) I do recommend hardwiring if you can but if not these extenders work great. I would determine how weak the signal is at the very weakest spot and measure the square footage on how far you want the signal to go. This way, you can keep extending the signal. I have Netgear Wifi Extenders in my 4500 sq space and it really works well to extend the signal and to get fast speeds.

If you are interested in easy hardwiring and not Wifi, I attached this short text below. I hope this helps!

In my bedroom, I use a NETGEAR Powerline Adapter 1200 MBPS. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM This can be on the pricy end at $75.00 currently on Amazon. Personally, I prefer the Adapter more in my opinion because you can hardwire a switch to it to have multiple devices rather than running a jack or many cables. You can never go wrong though with a direct modem/router connection for devices.

Based on the games you play,1080p 144hz should work great for you.

Pick one out of those 2 monitors.

The AOC has better colours out of the box and has a very solid stand.

Acers main issue is the weak stand and the need of color calibration out of the box.

You have a lot of budget left in case you want more monitors.

CPU and MOBO are from microcenter.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Pass-through-1200Mbps-TL-PA8030P-KIT/dp/B00Y3QYTS6/ref=zg_bs_1194444_5?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=3907CHBY28GF25HCEVTW&th=1 if you want passthrough.Many options out there.Find what you need and buy accordingly

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $259.99
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H5 Universal 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $46.99 @ Newegg Marketplace
Motherboard | ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $79.99
Memory | Team Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $74.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Mushkin ECO2 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $42.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card | $379.99 @ B&H
Case | Rosewill TYRFING ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 144Hz Monitor | $228.99 @ Best Buy
Monitor | Acer GN246HL 24.0" 144Hz Monitor | $149.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Logitech G710 Plus Wired Gaming Keyboard | $59.99 @ Best Buy
Mouse | Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse | $34.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1528.87
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-25 14:33 EST-0500 |

Your range extender should be placed where you receive the stronger possible single from your router, but yet at a location you desire.

It can only be as reliable as the wireless signal it's receiving.

Powerline is another option. They make powerline wifi extenders as well, which works great! (and IMHO are better than wifi range extenders as it still has a hard wire as it's backbone)

I own this one:
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-XWNB5201-Powerline-500Mbps-Access/dp/B009WG6K66/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419887968&sr=8-3&keywords=powerline+wifi

Edit: I'm not affiliated with Netgear. TP Link has a less expensive version that has high ratings as well!

You get points for MacGyver-ing together working solutions, but are you here are some better and "more proper" ways of doing it:

1. Best case, if you can run in a single Ethernet cable from your bedroom out the living room, then get another wireless router and place that into the living room. Connect the two routers together lan (not wan) port to lan port. On the second router in the living room, going to the menus and turn off DHCP so that IP addresses will only be issued by the router in the bedroom. Boom you're done and everything will run fast and smooth.
   
   
2. if you can't run the ethernet cable, you can also replace the ethernet cable with power line networking boxes to use your electrical wiring to create virtual ethernet cable to connect the two routers as described in number one. This will cost a bit more then the cable and its performance depends on the type of wiring and stuff in your house, but you can work really well.
   
   
3. you can also get power line networking devices that have wireless or additional wired ethernet ports on the receiver box. For example, this one has a receiver box with four ethernet outputs that could accommodate your equipment in the living room without an additional router needed.
   
   
4. if you still want to go the wireless route, you can get a wireless bridge unit that will connect to the wireless signal coming from your main router and then distribute that to the additional wired devices in your living room.

Hmm, the coax to the bedroom is likely your best shot. I'm unsure exactly what making that line live consists of but it should definitely be possible. Are you able to ping in a cable tech or the like?

Ethernet over powerline adapters are another solution; albeit not as good as the wired coax, etc., but still much better speeds than wifi.

I'm currently facing similar issues. I'm debating to run coax through my air ducts. Problem so far is leading the cable through the ducts; minimal visibility after a turn.

In the meantime, these adapters have been treating me very well.

For perspective, If I wire to router, I pull ~140ish mbps, wired to these adapters, I pull about ~90 mbps. WiFi is about ~45 mbps. I also have a couple of the TP Link 200 mbps adapters(much earlier, lesser version) and those pull about the same as WiFi but more consistent it seems; I'm running one to an Xbox and it seems to do much better than wifi so far.

The 7970 would certainly be worth it, however it does depend on the types of games you are playing.

Here are some benchmarks for the 7970, at the bottom of the page it shows the results using 3 1080p monitors playing BF3 at max settings. The results aren't great, a minimum framerate of 23 and average of 29 would be barely playable. Obviously if you tweaked some of the settings you could make it playable. On another page the Dirt 3 benchmarks are done and all cards perform a lot better.

I wouldn't recommend going the SLI route, it is almost always better to have a single good card than 2 average ones that produce more heat.

Oh and the new Nvidia cards actually support up to 4 monitors now. If you wanted more space in your case, you could get rid of the wifi card and get a homeplug. Good luck!

I know you said running cabling and new hardware isn't an option but I've had pretty good success with using ethernet over power adapters for a similar setup. They are pretty cheap also. Speeds aren't the greatest (either 100mb or 500mb without wifi assistance), but neither will wifi be in this type of configuration.

This one has worked well for me:

https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Extender-DHP-701AV/dp/B00PVDJQHY

...though I understand it may have more to do with the wiring in your home than the quality of the adapter. They also say to not use the other plug wherever you plug it in as it will reduce quality, but I've never noticed that and I have a powerbar running most of my entertainment center plugged in the other plug.

I've also been told that video card can play a big part, as it can be used to compress the video. I've used my steam link with both a SLI 670M setup, and now a 1080 - and like I said it's been very solid.

I do have endless issues with controllers... hoping they'll get those sorted soon.

I know you said you cant run a long Ether net cable due to the layout of your apartment but have you tried a Powerline Adapter? I have used them with GREAT success in my last 3 apartments.

If you dont know what it is, it uses the house electrical wiring, thro a standard outlet to produce a wired internet connection. Basically you plug one adapter into the outlet near the modem, connect it with an ether net cable and then you plug the other one into an outlet near the PS4 and connect it with an ether net cable and you now have a stable, wired connection.

Here is the one I have used for years

A good Powerline adapter will get you very close to your top speed. I pay for 100/10 and I get this through my Powerline, basically perfect connection. It has also my console connected, since it has two internet connections. I have something similar to this. It's super nice with a power pass-through :)

No worries, I just clicked the little snoo on PCPP :)

If you want a build to grow on, this is a great place to start. Lots of flexibility for a CPU upgrade, solid power supply that will last a few builds, you definitely hit the sweet spot.

The only thing I would personally change would be swapping the wireless adapter for a power line adapter, like this.

I've used a similar model for a few years and have always been pretty pleased. No desire to go back to wifi anytime soon.

TP-Link has a very nice hardware for the price, and a lot of it's models run really nice with DD-WRT. For my case use, the TL-WR1043ND is unbeatable.

-

As for the OP's question, if you want to get signal upstairs from the basement, maybe your best choice would be a Powerline Ethernet bridge to an Access Point located upstairs. Something like this and a cheap Access Point/Router like this should do the trick.

First thing to note: modems are typically used to convert a digital signal to analog. This is used by cable providers that deliver internet access via their existing cables.

FiOS is fiber, it's already a digital signal. The router you have is therefore, not a modem and does not offer a modem's function.

That said, it does include what most modern routers do, a firewall (yes this used to be a separate device), a Wireless Access Point (WAP), and a switch.

What you need to keep in mind is that if you subscribe to FiOS TV service, you will probably need to keep the VZ router. This is because the router does offer MoCA, a protocol used to deliver data over coax cable for the STBs (set top boxes).

So your question really comes down to "how do I take control over my network?"

Simple, buy a router, buy a WAP and if you need MoCA service, buy a MoCA bridge. If you want an all in one device that offers great performance, check out the Asus AC66U or the AC68U. People here are big fans, I myself have the earlier model (66) and I'm very pleased.

If you want to step up your game and get separate hardware, look into prosumer routers. Mikrotik and EdgeRouter Lite have some good options. Someone here is a fan of the EdgeRouter Lite.

For WAP look no further then Ubuquiti. Get a N model or maybe the AC if you got the cash.

Trendnet has some really nice unmanaged switches.

---

Set up

With the all in one: ISP > router > possible switch > possible MoCA bridge

With the stand alone devices: ISP > router > switch > WAP + possible MoCA bridge

I'm having great success with my power line adapters I highly recommend them. I've heard people are having problems with the older generation powerline adapters though. Definitely go with 1200Mbps or faster.

These have been working great for me: http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-PL1200-100PAS-Powerline-1200/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=pd_sim_147_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41S1uTAeV1L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=10D8WC3JYRWPJVAJ70TA

Powerline is honestly the best thing in the world. Highly recommend that and I bet you can find a great cyber week sale right now.

Here's an inexpensive two pack that would work great. Never worry about wireless interference again.

Pleasant surprise to see that it comes with free shipping. Friendly reminder to change the insurance tick box, as the shipment would be covered by the free option, so save 1.5% there.

Another thing to note is that you're actually saving $4 (Amazon has it for $32) and not the crazy savings of $82 the site is listing. So, I don't know if this is actually that extreme of a deal. Still a deal though.

That article seems to state that when utilizing another wireless router, it still needs to be in a 'wireless access point' mode. That's usually done by the 3rd party firmwares DD-WRT/ tomato. Not sure how much WAP's cost, but I got my Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 at the time for $20. I then installed Tomato on it which enabled it to run as an access point, bridge, router, and many other options.

The other model Tomato was popular with at the time was the Linksys WRT54GL - I'm sure you can find a used/refurb of these for cheaper.

So while you are using what is physically a router out of the box, by making these firmware changes it can become an WAP (which is what's needed to extend the wireless network).

I've tried using extenders before but never had luck with them...they either constantly dropped the network connection, were only able to work with WEP encryption, or the 'better ones' were well out of my price range.

You could always try doing it on the cheap by making one of these.

Lastly, do you NEED your bedroom pc connection to be wireless? If not, check out powerline networking.

The build itself is good and should get 100-144FPS in every game.

The powerline adapter kit you have picked is pretty mediocre, a build that powerful is really worthy of an ethernet connection or at least a better kit.

https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Extender-DHP-701AV/dp/B00PVDJQHY

This is a long shot but it worked for me.
Ethernet over power-line. Hopefully the other person will allow you to plug in on their side and "sync" the kit upon the initial setup.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Adapters-Included-Beamforming-TPL-420E2K/dp/B00S7NJWOM

1. Adapter 1 Goes into the main router Ethernet jack >then into the power outlet in the wall.
   
   
2. Adapter 2 Goes into your PS4 jack Ethernet> then into power outlet of wall.
   
   If those options don't work your SOL.
   I hear The slim and Pro have better wifi cards in them thus better speeds.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-1200Mbps-TL-PA8010-KIT/dp/B01EO5A4TI

You won't get the full speed of your service like you were sitting on top of your router but it's a pretty good work around. Even though specs of this TP Link are up to 1200Mbps you should expect slower speeds. Too many variables involved like distance, type of electrical wiring, etc.. In fact if fastest speed is not a major issue you could go with one of TP Link's less expensive models of this unit like the AV500.

Like /u/heeero said. I've used POE switches like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BSR4PU/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATT2/

That sends power over the ethernet (POE) to your camera. Your camera needs to have POE on board, or you can use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/

That "splits" the ethernet from power, and you can use that to connect a non-POE camera to a POE switch. Very nice, small (like pack of cigarettes).

There's also this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZA0FU0/

That's non-standard POE, uses 20v instead of 40v. Can't use it with POE cameras or switches, basically a standalone thing. Very nice if you only have one non POE camera you want to hook up.

POE is really nice. The reliability of hardwire, the convenience of a single ethernet cord.

Ah I see. The ONT is the box that they installed in my home, right? That's in my basement (I think), so does that mean I would need to hook up an ethernet cable from that to my router? There's an ethernet port on the same coax outlet where the coaxial cable that connects to my current rented verizon cable is. Could that possibly also be connected to the ONT too? I guess only way to find out is to try it right? xD

Also, if you don't mind me asking (sorry for all the questions), assuming I have that the ONT stuff all set, I currently have this TP-LINK router that I was recommended by a friend. Would it be better to get this adpater or would this cheaper one work just as fine?

Yes, it uses the electrical wires in a house/apt to transmit ethernet. Somehow using the same tech as wireless but the signal is going though a wire so its usually faster.

Speed and reliability depends on how good the wiring is inside your house. The one thing I heard when reading up on it is you cannot plug them into an extender they need to be directly in the wall.

I use
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA6010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00IBPLI48/ref=zg_bs_1194444_4

and they work great for me. Utility on a PC says I get 300mpbs but havent tested the speed. Got them because with wi-fi I could not stream downloaded HD movies to a ps3 even with apple extreme AC router when the PC was wireless, and with those it works.

There are also models that have wi-fi and ethernet in one of the modules if you need to extend wi-fi.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WPA4220KIT-ADVANCED-Universal-Powerline/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=zg_bs_1194444_3

I like Ethernet over powerline with wireless ap.

If you have rooms at both sides of the house on the same circuit breaker they work great.

I like netgear, not as fast as some but the connection is super stable.

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Powerline-Access-Point-XWNB5201-100PAS/dp/B009WG6K66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370788535&sr=8-1&keywords=Netgear+Powerline+500+WiFi+Access+Point

Depending on the construction of your house it may not be that hard to run a cat 5 cable and hooking up an access point.

I am not a fan of wireless to wireless access points.

I bought the following for some devices I have down stairs and my main router is on the top floor. I have these adapters in a few of my rooms hope it helps. They work great and have not had any issues.

TP-LINK TL-PA4010 AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter, Up to 500Mbps, Plug and Play, Power Saving Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUD1M66?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Havent used that powerline, but for the price/speed ratio it looks like garbage. If you can, take them back and pick up a netgear PL1200 or PL1000 adapter. A few dollars more than what you paid, but a huge improvement in performance. I swear by these powerline adapters, and they are the only ones a can say have worked very well.

As far as your no internet issue. when you have the pc plugged in, go into your modem settings and look at the ipv4 client table, see if your PC has been assigned an IP address. Also, do you have dhcp enabled or are you using static IPs? one more, what speed do you get from you ISP (not ACTUAL speed, but what speed package do you pay for)

Edit: I guess more than a few dollars difference, I was looking at the 4 port model which is ~$60. But still, well worth it if it'll solve your problem

It's doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the distance you are from the router, it has more to do with the throughput of the router. Game streaming requires higher end routers (like the AC models that you mentioned). While they're still fairly high in price, they are dropping slowly as they become more of the norm. You'll have a lot better success with streaming wired though if you chose not to purchase a new router.

If you are streaming to a laptop, upgrading that router would be my priority. That will ensure that you get the least amount of network lag. If you are like me and just streaming to another box in your house (I built a cheap $200 machine that I have connected to my TV), then you should look at these. What these do allow you to run ethernet, through your entire house, using power outlets. This would give you the ability to run ethernet, over to a box that you may have running with wireless connectivity.

Just a suggestion.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-XAVB101-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B001AGM2VI

Link above is what he was talking about in terms of ethernet over power. There are other models then this. I wouldn't buy netgear for my mother-in-law so please look at the other options.

You could always get a stronger router and try and penetrate the ceiling/floor some more. Have you thought about purchasing a repeater of sorts and doing it that way?

I personally love the RB951 from Mikrotik. Cheap...and you can turn it into your router...if that doesn't work you can put your old router back in place, and turn the RB951 into a repeater persay...Wireless in, and ethernet out.

http://www.ispsupplies.com/categories/2GHz-CPE-AP-Bridge/MikroTik-RouterBOARD-951Ui-2HnD.html


All in all I wish you luck on your endeavor here.

Ah. Well the good news boils down to two things that you've already figured out.

Get a better stand-alone router and use that. Honestly if your hardwired devices are no issue, which I realized not long after I commented, then you shouldn't have to worry about a new modem at all. Just a good stand-alone router.

Aside from that, for any devices that can be hardwired (laptops, desktops, consoles) you can always get a powerline adapter. Especially for a console.

If your home is massive then for phones/tablets you can bridge routers or get range extenders.

Right now I'm using a netgear powerline adapter for my desktop and our old xbox 360 is hardwired to our second router.

For how our apartment is set-up it's the only way to avoid running cables in inconvenient places. Also, my husband is much happier with his wifi signal on our second router in the bathroom compared to the 1st router's signal. So there's that.

This one is pretty good and it's only $39.99. The AV500 one is also pretty popular and it's $5 cheaper

Yes, the PC has an Ethernet connection. That is a good idea too. After reading jmnugent's reply below, I will probably invest in a USB Wi-Fi adapter, but I will definitely remember about AC Power line adapter if the wireless options do not work. And yes, I believe this is just a bit more pricier than WiFi adapter. Thank you for the suggestion.


Something like this is what you had in mind, right?

I had a friend who gushes about how awesome the 'power line as ethernet' works. Might be perfect for your situation. I've never used myself.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-XAVB101-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B001AGM2VI

I'm glad i'm ok as well and learned my lesson about where to walk up in the attic. I also had to move my ps4 down into the living room which is where i moved my router and the powerline adapter as well. The powerline adapter just needed to be synced up with the other adapter and i was good to go.

I also bought the TP link from microcenter and ended up paying $80. Amazon is cheaper though.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Pass-through-1200Mbps-TL-PA8030P-KIT/dp/B00Y3QYTS6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506537562&sr=1-2&keywords=tp+LINK+powerline+adapter

Ok, so you basically setup a router behind another router?

In your situation, you've created a second network, and what you want to actually do is setup your router as a bridge.

Just google your "routermodel# + bridge" and you should get some step by step instructions. Here's a general how-to

Hopefully your router is capable of being configured this way

edit: easiest way would be buy a powerline adapter and just use your router as an access point.

I use these and they work pretty great. They are pricey, I know. Also, your experience may vary depending on the wiring in your home. Make sure to buy from somewhere that accepts returns.

10yr exp plus computer tech here. If you're willing to drop money on proper hardware, I'm willing to donate my time to come out and help you out. If the guest house is further than 50-100 feet away from the main house though, I'd probably recommending either sending out cable, or depending on how the power is configured you could use an Ethernet over Power configuration.

I've had really good luck with these: http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-over-POWER-Adapter-Pair/dp/B004C4XWN2

Like I mentioned in a previous post, Wireless power is mandated by the FCC. Pretty much whatever router you get, you're still going to be limited by that range in a residential setting.

Verizon FiOS and all real fiber optic connections don't use a modem. They use optical terminals, but they'll probably mount that to a wall in your basement. Verizon uses coaxial cable to feed the internet into the Verizon router (MOCA). Then the router uses the same coax for LAN, so that they can send data to their cable boxes. They usually run a splitter from a jack and put the router near one of the cable boxes. Without the Verizon router, the cable boxes won't function properly.

You have a couple options with FiOS
If you aren't getting TV service, get an Ethernet install and use whatever router you want.
If you are getting TV service, you will need to use the Verizon router to route all the traffic and handle DHCP. If you still want to use your own router, you'll have to set it up as just an access point. If you put it next to the Verizon router, you'll want to turn off the Verizon router's wireless radio to cut down on interference.

My recommendation would be to leave the Verizon router over there in the corner and wire one of these into it http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-XWNB5201-Powerline-500Mbps-Access/dp/B009WG6K66
You can then plug the other end of this thing upstairs, in the opposite corner. This will get some pretty good overlapping WiFi coverage on both ends.

Here's a pdf of the Verizon router, if you're curious
https://www.actiontec.com/products/datasheets/VrznMI424WRrevI_dtsht_up812.pdf

I use wireless on my Netgear Nighthawk AC1900, And it works great. I decided to run a 50ft Ethernet just to test out how much better it could be with a wired connection, and the difference was negligible. If I sat down and picked it apart I could see a difference, but playing a game, I couldn't see or feel anything different.

If you want to go with the PoE, the general consensus is to aim for a 1Gbps kit or more. And the one you linked is way more expensive than the 1.2Gbps Netgear one [here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-PL1200-100PAS-Powerline-1200/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449589822&sr=8-3&keywords=netgear+power+over+ethernet) This has been in my wishlist in case I wanted to upgrade, But I haven't felt the need to.

Edit: Clicked save before I was done.

Works great! Never have any problems ever! I had a usb adaptor as well and it was pretty shitty.

Currently have two WiFi extenders but only use: TP-Link AV1200 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA8010 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EO5A4TI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5kF5Cb7P6XHCS

For my pc. Hook one to your router than other to your pc with Ethernet.


Other one I have works great to but doesn’t beat being plugged into your computer. Still works wonders and can have multiple devices connected wirelessly

NETGEAR Wi-Fi Range Extender EX6120 - Coverage up to 1200 sq.ft. and 20 devices with AC1200 Dual Band Wireless Signal Booster & Repeater (up to 1200Mbps speed), and Compact Wall Plug Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014YN7LVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ynF5CbZJSAZT3

I use powerline adapters in my network and they work VERY good. The ping is substantially lower over powerline than it is via wifi (i get about 5 ms on powerline vs 25 on wifi). Now not all powerline adapters are created equal and not all homes will work as well with them as it's based of your internal home wiring. Make sure to get one rated at least 1 gigabit per second, supports MIMO, and meets the newer AV2 standard. Powerline is generally much more consistent than WiFi as well.

I get about 200Mbps via powerline to my Xbox One. Link to the models I use:
https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Extender-DHP-701AV/dp/B00PVDJQHY

you can try 'wireless to wireless' (Mesh) networking, but that cuts your throughput (speed) in half with each 'hop'. this is the 'worse case scenario' situation - this is only used if nothing else is available.

ideally, you'd run a dedicated ethernet cable to each wireless access point. if that is not possible, you can use Powerline adapters - they transmit your network signal over your electrical wiring, which is very convenient (they cannot be plugged into any power strip or surge suppressor).

you can get a wireless adapter for your laptop to leverage the 5GHz (faster) signal.

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Adapter-Supports-MU-MIMO-EW-7822ULC/dp/B01MY7PL10/

even with the above mentioned items in my original response, plus this adapter, you're just above $300. adding another WAP would push it near $400, but you'd have a great setup that would cover your entire home (and it'd cost less than the Google setup).

----

here is a decent Powerline adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-PowerLine-1000-Gigabit-DHP-601AV/dp/B00F0RC97A/

So you have 2 options, neither of which require a special Verizon router (that may be of questionable lineage).

Option 1
Any Ethernet router using MOCA adapters. The ONT to your house definitely has a Coaxial connection. You can buy transceivers to take the ethernet signal off the coax and turn it into regular UTP Ethernet. This Actiontec is a popular unit

Option 2
This takes some doing as you may have to cajole support into changing the ONT for you. The FiOS box itself probably has an un-used RJ-45 ethernet port on it. It's disabled, but some folks have had luck getting support to enable it and turn off the Coaxial connection. The downside to using the ethernet port is that you'd need to run ethernet cable in your house. Also, this is moot if your ONT doesn't have Ethernet at all.

I'm using a DS3 controller along with this Bluetooth adapter.

The adapter has a switch to choose between one of two modes.

In Xinput mode, the adapter supports a single DS3 controller and works out-of-the-box (w/o VirtualHere). I've never run into any problems in this mode.

In Direct Input mode, the adapter supports up to 4 controllers, but requires VirtualHere. Although I also haven't run into any problems in this mode either, I haven't tested it very much.

One thing you may want to add is some info regarding Ethernet-over-powerline which can be a great alternative to Wi-Fi (when hardwired Ethernet isn't an option). The current standard is called HomePlug AV2 MIMO with a claimed theoretical speed of 2000Mbps - this is what to look for if you're buying a new adapter.

There are two AV2 MIMO chipset manufacturers (that I'm aware of), Broadcom and Qualcomm. Broadcom-based AV2 adapters tend to outperform Qualcomm (according to this review), but the adapter manufacturers don't usually tell you which chipset they use. These two adapters are Broadcom-based. The first has a built-in AC filter so you can plug additional stuff into it w/o affecting the speed, the second is cheaper but has no filter (but a 10 foot extension cord makes a pretty effective filter).

Finally, in my own experience, I've found AMD hardware encoding to be much more susceptible to dropped packets and jitter versus software encoding. If your network circumstances aren't ideal and you're getting dropped frames, try software encoding.

edit: formatting

I'm guessing you're in the US, so try these. I use ZyXEL hardware on my network, It's rock-solid reliable, never failed on me (over about six years)

If you need something cheaper, try these

They're faster, but TRENDnet aren't as reputable a company as ZyXEL, but they're still pretty good!

are you sure? cat 6 cable is only 35 cents a foot. that would be by far the best option.

if not, this kit is a good powerline kit.

Your best bet is a powerline adapter if you don't want to run an ethernet cable.

https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-PowerLine-Gigabit-Starter-DHP-601AV/dp/B00F0RC97A/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501457260&sr=1-5&keywords=powerline%2Badapter&th=1

This one is rated at 1gbps. However I'm pretty sure performance is dependent on how your house electrical wires are setup and can vary between homes.

Just FYI, someone above you posted how to set an ethernet connection to metered in Win 10: http://www.reddit.com/r/technology/comments/4mcdon/_/d3uno9z. Also, have you ever looked into a Powerline solution? These allow you to run ethernet through the electrical lines in the house. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-XAVB101-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B001AGM2VI

Depends - can you run Ethernet cable (Cat 5e or 6 - NOT Cat 5) discretely or inside your wall? If so then you would set up at your ISDN modem (where your phone jack is) and an Ethernet switch - like this one.

You plug your modem into the switch and also your long Ethernet cable as well as your Dell desktop (3 ports total). You run that downstairs and plug it into your wireless router (whatever one you have - you didn't say) and any of your devices that have Ethernet.

Now you have wireless Ethernet and wired Ethernet downstairs and wired Ethernet upstairs.

If you can't or don't want to run a long Ethernet cable then you can replace the long wire with a Powerline adapter kit. This is an adapter kit that uses AC power lines to run networking. If you get a good one you can run 1 gb Networking on the AC wiring.

Here's a good Powerline kit (AV2 - up to 1gb networking) - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-1200Mbps-TL-PA8010-KIT/dp/B01EO5A4TI. This kit has 2 adapters - you plug one into the wall near your switch upstairs and connect it via Ethernet. Plug the other in an AC outlet downstairs and plug it into your wireless router. $50

Assuming you don't have an option to run Ethernet, the powerline uni t you get depends how fast you need it. There are different speeds available - how fast is your internet?

For example the NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 can do up to gigabit speeds, but if you only have a 60-mbit connection you can get something "500" like this TRENDnet module which does up to 100 Mbps.

I suggest buying from a local store if possible. The small additional cost is offset by the ability to easily return if needed because the only way to know if you'll get decent speeds and reliability is to try it out.

MoCA should work fine, but isn't really the best value solution IMO (unless your modem/router already has it built in), Homeplug AV2000 can often get better speeds, and the adapters are cheaper https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Extender-DHP-701AV/dp/B00PVDJQHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474771465&sr=8-1&keywords=homeplug%2Bav2&th=1

That's exactly what I'm talking about. I bought some TP-Link ones 3 years ago and they've been great in 3 houses. I've used them to run internet to different levels or corners of the house and they've been great. Here's a link to the newer version of the ones I bought on [Amazon for <$50] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IBPLI48). . .

If the show has a barrel plug that is 5v, 9v, or 12v this tplink adaper is great. I have been using them for a while with great results. www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK

That device does seem to be available: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQRHQW4

The device doesn't necessarily have to be PoE capable. You could always run a PoE splitter (if it's active PoE) with an ethernet 4G modem/router

Or you can just get a PoE router and a supported 4G dongle like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6FJM8I

Slightly off topic but if your wifi is truly the issue, maybe give power line Ethernet a try. I just tried this out and much better connection than wifi. Assuming you have access to the router.

D Link AV 2000

I have several of these Tp-Link gig powerline adapters throught my apartment.

Though understand that they are not as fast as true ethernet runs. As it goes through your powerlines.

But in my expierence, they are faster than wireless and deliver close enough speeds to ethernet drops.

All in all, i enjoy the product, and they are really convient to bring to lan parties where your buddy doesnt have drops.

You seemed to imply that running CAT5/5e/6 was not an option. Powerline ethernet lets you plug some adapters into an electrical outlet and use the powerlines as a hardwired network. Not an endorsement of this specific product, but this is an example:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Adapters-Included-Beamforming-TPL-420E2K/dp/B00S7NJWOM

It is not anywhere near as good as a dedicated data run, and results vary depending on the house wiring, but it is likely to be significantly faster and more reliable than Wifi.

It's a netgear, I can't see a model number on the device, but I think that it's this one, but this is faster and has a pass-through so you don't take an electrical socket; which would definitely be nice.

My partner is selling a bunch of electronic equipment (networking stuff mostly):

Netgear Orbi AC3000 $300

Netgear Nighthawk X6 AC3200 $175

Apple Airport Extreme (5th Generation) $40

ActionTech Ethernet to Coax Adapter (ECB2500C) $50 Brand new in box. Never opened.

ScreenBeam Mini2 Wireless Display Receiver $30

de.Light WiFi Extender Bulb $75 Like new de.Light WiFi extender bulb. Helps eliminate wifi dead zones in your home. Wire free as you simply screw the bulb into an existing light socket. Comes with wifi bulb, hub, and Ethernet cable.

Individual pics of the specific products available, but figured the amazon links would be helpful for full specifics.

Yup - plug one adapter between the router and the nearest wall outlet. Plug the other adapter between your PC the the nearest wall outlet to it. The adapters cannot plug into a powerbar (powerbars degrade the signal so the adapter cannot be plugged into one). No setup or configuration needed (powerline adapters come in pairs and they're paired at the factory). You can buy additional adapters of the same make/model place elsewhere in your home, but you'll have to pair them manually.

Get a powerline adapter that has a 3 prong outlet on the front of it so you don't lose an outlet to plug other things in. example:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-Adapter-Ethernet-Passthrough/dp/B0778Y6K6N/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=2-2-bmV0Z2VhciBwb3dlcmxpbmUgYWRhcHRlcg%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=powerline+adapter&pd_rd_i=B0778Y6K6N&pd_rd_r=255327ba-73b8-4b08-92b0-f4dcfbd517ec&pd_rd_w=mELq9&pd_rd_wg=3Dg15&pf_rd_p=39892eb5-25ed-41d8-aff1-b659c9b73760&pf_rd_r=K0M7D3BBVXMS0YW969EM&psc=1&qid=1572440458

YMMV on the speeds you'll get (factors like your house's wiring and circuit breaker affect the speeds from home to home). They also don't reach their advertised speeds. I have a pair of DLink AV500's and though I "should" achieve 500Mbps, I actually got only 80Mbps between the PC and router. That's more than sufficient for gaming and streaming but can be slow for large file transfers. So basically get the fastest powerline addapters your budget can afford. My AV500's are old and discontinued. I believe 1200 and up is the norm thesedays.

My wife works from our home office from time to time but her company has a strict ethernet-only policy (wifi just opens up can of worms support-wise due to the VoIP requirements), so the AV adapters fill that niche. The home office and router are in different rooms.

Our home office actually can have up to 4 PCs (my mac mini, my gaming PC, a chromebook, and wife's laptop) so we use a gigabit ethernet switch in the home office so they can all take advantage of the powerline connection.

For recommended brands you can't go wrong with netgear or dlink.

I've dealt with this sort of problem a lot.

The problem with high power access points is WiFi is a two way street. A 600mW AP may be able to blast through the thick walls, but if the 50mW laptop can't get a return signal back to the AP you're still in the shit.

Repeaters are also tricky. Because repeaters use the same channel to re-transmit data, that means that under idea conditions you will get at most half of the bandwidth you had before (usually less).

My advice is to hardwire. The easiest way is to just run an Ethernet line through the basement from one end of the place to the other. Plug one end into your router, plug the other end into a WiFi access point (configured only as an AP, all routing/NAT/DHCP turned off).

If running Cat5 isn't an option, I suggest you use MoCA. MoCA is a tech for running Ethernet signals over coax, and Verizon FiOS uses it to deliver network access to their set top boxes. If you're using a FiOS router, you have MoCA. Get yourself something like this and plug it into your coax at the end of the house far away from the router. It should fire right up and link into the router (coax light comes on). At that point just plug an access point (configured only as an AP, all routing/NAT/DHCP turned off) into the MoCA, set your SSID and WPA settings the same as the base router, and you're all set!

I actually use a powerline network adapter for my setup, because my room and the router are really far away. Specifically, I use this Netgear Adapter because it also acts as a hotspot as well.

Essentially what it does it turns your home's electrical wiring into an ethernet cable. You plug the main adapter into an outlet near your router, connect it to that router, and then you plug the second adapter into an outlet where you want your internet to be. Then you plug whatever you want to connect to the internet into that adapter, and you're online. Set up is easy with the instructions they give you, and no need for a whole stadium worth of wiring. Plus, you can connect your PS4 to the adapter, and you can set up the added WiFi hotspot for your friend to connect to.

Is there any reason why running ethernet cable isn't feasible? Cabled connections are ideal for gaming, and short of Wireless AC networks you aren't going to get great latency over wireless.

You might consider ethernet with a [powerline adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Adapters-Included-Beamforming-TPL-420E2K/dp/B00S7NJWOM/ref=dp_ob_title_ce).

THIS! I recently did this in my home due to needing to move my router and wifi to another part of the house. It's getting me the same speeds as if I was plugged in directly to the modem. Make sure to get a gigabit adapter set. Here the TP Link one I used. It is also very small and does not interfere with the other power outlet where it's plugged in to. Make sure you don't plug them into a surge protected outlet or the performance can suffer. Best $80 I've spent on my network.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IBPLI48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>If you're running off of Wifi, I'd look into hardwiring your console with a powerline adapter. Here is one for just over $20. All you need is a plug next to the router an an extra plug next to the console. Then you're hardwired.

Wow ok I've never heard of this before! I'm a little confused on the process though, so do plug the wire from the adapter into my console? Like I plug the router into the adapter, then the wire from the adapter into my console? Please excuse my ignorance, I'm the most tech illiterate 90s/millenial...

>The Ethernet cable connected breaks out the pairs of the cable in "pigtail" fashion and those 4 pairs are then run out the bottom of the white box and over to another white box labeled Arris. From the Arris box it breaks out into RJ11...

The Arris box likely is a VoIP adapter. I have a Cisco SPA112 VoIP adapter supplied by via:talk, my VoIP service provider. It's connected to the LAN switch behind pfSense.

My guess is that the RJ-45 port on the ONT will be what you'll use for Internet. It's been a few years, but we switched my son's FiOS from the MI424WR combo router rented from Verizon to his own router. We also had to call Verizon, because his FiOS TV and Internet services were supplied over the coax port on the ONT. As I recall, all we had to do was connect the Ethernet cable from the ONT to the WAN port on his router. I don't recall having to supply a MAC for the router, but we may have spoofed the Verizon router's MAC.

It gets a bit tricky with TV. Does your friend also have FiOS TV? If not, then nothing further is needed.

If he does have FiOS TV, then I suggest an alternative to the guide you linked to above. With Internet being provided over Ethernet, the Verizon modem will function only as a MoCA bridge, which is needed to supply TV guide and VoD as indicated in the guide. It will serve no other purpose.

The guide describes reconfiguring the Verizon router, but there is no need to do this, and there certainly is no reason to continue paying the monthly rent for the router to Verizon. I suggest buying a simple MoCA bridge like the Actiontec Ethernet to Coax Adapter for Homes with Cable TV Service (ECB2500C). The cabling would then look like...

ONT-coax =>
coax splitter INPUT (for FiOS TV set top boxes)

ONT-Eth =>
pfSense =>
LAN switch =>
MoCA bridge =>
coax splitter (along with TV set top boxes)

All communication from FiOS set top boxes to Verizon for guides, etc is outbound. There is no need to open ports on the firewall. So, creating a DMZ and firewall rules for FiOS TV is entirely optional IMO.

I bought a Powerline Adapter starter kit from Amazon and it works like a charm for Remote Play:
TP-LINK TL-PA511 KIT AV500 Powerline Gigabit Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081FLFQE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_NyySub01M8DMN

I set up something similar in my sister's house a few years back. As far as I know, it's still going strong. Injector at one end, a splitter at the other plugged into a switch (just make sure the power ratings are within specs).

I don't think the GS108T that /u/adamgerken mentioned existed at the time (or was too expensive).

I believe this is the splitter we used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/

It supports 12V @ 1A, so should work with most 5 and 8 port switches these days.

Side note: I also use an 802.3at (PoE+) splitter to power my ONT, because I needed more than the 12v/1A the splitter above could supply. For this, I used a "PLANET NETWORKS POE-162S IEEE 802.3at Gigabit High Power over Ethernet Splitter" I picked up off of eBay.

Sure, I get your point. I wasn't expecting the advertised rates. I did a lot of research, and maybe the reason mine perform so well is that they're relatively close together, even though they were on different floors? I have the TP-Link AV600, which is actually last generation I think.

When I had 300mbps service I was in a different house, router and modem were on first floor, and I was on second floor, that's where I was able to get the 250mbps if my roommate wasn't on his computer as well. I was just as surprised as you when I got those speeds, as I had figured I might tap out around 80mbps.

In my current house, I've only got 100mbps service, as I couldn't justify spending the extra money for 300mbps. So I can't recreate those previous results now. What I can say though is that those same adapters are getting me ~115mbps when no one else is on the network. That's through Steam downloads, speedtest.net and speedof.me. I'm on the same floor as the router now, but not much closer. I can take screenshots when I get home if you want more definitive proof than my word.

I haven't noticed any problems when other electronics are on in the house. Ping rates like to spike at certain moments, but it was the same way for when I was connected up via ethernet directly to the router, so not sure where that's coming from, although I think it might be our chromecast causing it. I have two roommates, and we all play Rocket League together on our own computers each hooked up to their own AV600, and we've had no problems playing together online with that, our ping rates are usually around 30-60.

This was one of the reviews of powerline adapters that I remember looking at when I was researching. Looking at it now, I would think that their results are a bit higher than average, but overall it's still relatively accurate.

Well, this is an insanely late reply.. apologies. I think it's an ARRIS MG5225G/NA router that WOW! makes us use, and then that is routed into this D-Link switch. Is there a specific powerline adapter that I should use, or should I just go all so I have no chance of being limited? Or are there any negative effects if I get a 1200Mbps adapter and my network is only like 500Mbps? I was thinking of just going with this one.

Ha yeah, I was pretty skeptical at first and some guy said it couldn't hurt to try since amazon would just return them. I got these and literally went from my steam link to being a choppy unusable mess, to being able to play through dark souls on it.

Not Wi-Fi but the best I could think of is. And bear in mind this is Totally Theorerical. You could get a pair of Ethernet over Power Line adapters (best rated you can find) and then do HDMI over ethernet with a set of converters. In Theory this should give you enough bandwidth for 4k if your electrical wiring is half decent.

Ethernet over Power
TP-Link AV1200 Power Line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QYTS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dyEhAbCXSTHD7

Hdmi over Ethernet
J-Tech Digital Hdmi Extender By Single Cat 5E/6/7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OzEhAbZK031FP

Your best bet would be to get something like this:
TRENDnet Powerline 500 AV Nano Adapter Kit with Built-In Outlet, With Power Outlet Pass-Through, Includes 2 x TPL-407E Adapters, TPL-407E2K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZRBXMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NBUwDbEFHG727

Edit: Assuming your apartment only has a single breaker box, and that it is, in fact, a breaker box and not the old bulb fuses, these kinds of things are closest you will get to hardline wiring performance without running a line all through your apartment.

I don't know if this counts as cheap, but I use this and it's great.

Also, I'm not sure if I should get the HDHomerun that I listed above or this one. One of the Android boxes will be connected to the network through wifi unless I buy ethernet powerline adapters like this, but I don't know if the outlet in that room is on the same breaker (I rent an apartment) and I've heard that these don't work very well if you plug them into outlets on different breakers. Anyway, my concern is that this cheaper one has better reviews, but says that it can only share SD content through wifi.

Here's a nifty little product: http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-over-POWER-Adapter-Pair/dp/B004C4XWN2

> The Ethernet over Power adapters offer users a wide range of networking solutions over the powerline. It uses the existing power line as data transmission media terminal. The new high-speed generation of home plug adapters allows you the tranfering of data, video streaming, heavy-duty files such as photo and videos all transmitted over the power line without interference. Simply plug this adapter into an existing electrical wall socket and connect to the PC's Ethernet port to enjoy an internet connection anywhere in the home.

If you can't run ethernet cables, Powerline may be your best bet. It has better ping and less packet loss than wifi, which is important for gaming.

I've used a set of Trendnet 406E to connect my server downstairs to my network upstairs, and it has been rock solid for the past 2 years.

However, that set is limited to 100mb port. This newer kit has gigabit ports and a newer version of the homeplug standard.

It's a shame there isn't anyone to give you a hand. I'm not sure what it's like where you are, but around here most apartments have radiators that run along the floor on exterior walls. I've had success with passing cable through the walls where the pipes go through and hiding the cable under the radiator. An alternative would be to use powerline network adapters so you don't have to buy a bunch of expensive extra strong cable. I use this one for one of my devices and have had no issues.

Sure. Amazon has the best price I've seen and they even include two ethernet cables.

what is your current modem/router right now? You're pretty far away from your router with a lot of obstruction. The further and more obstruction, the slower connection you'll get.

Another option is Powerline Ethernet. If you have already good router and the issue is the distance and location of your device, powerline ethernet might suitable for you.

I've used cheap TP link adapters in the past, but had much more success with the 2gbps D-Link adapters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVDJQHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xUlhAbQW0QGK6

Id go with something like this

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK

if your that worried

has ce and fcc markings so it should be pretty safe

apparently they are as good as straight up LAN from the router. I just bought these...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081FLFQE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

we'll see if it helps

1. Immediately! You don’t spin classes before, so you know what to expect. If the LB worries you, touch it and it’s gone from the screen. I low live classes, and think this is where the bike shines.
   
   
2. Absolutely. It will take a few weeks, but if you are controlling your diet and don’t increase calories with the peloton use, you will see a definite change!
   
   
3. Not qualified to answer—but can’t hurt to try!
   
   
4. You will be louder than the peloton if you have headphones on. The belt drive and magnetic resistance combined make a tiny, almost inaudible hum. Your breathing will be louder.
   
   
5. Hardwire. Your options are either the long cord, or a power line adapter. They work great!
   
   https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM
   
   
6. Not spin class, but gym. Tell them you’re moving?

I've had similar issues, and a huge difference was made from purchasing a set of TP-Link TL-PA6010 Powerline adapters. See the link below...

I don't read of these or similar as a solution very often, and I don't understand. My speed got a small boost, nothing huge....but the difference is the latency.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00IBPLI48?th=1

You could try going with an powerline adapter to convert your wifi to wired through your home wiring. Something like this -- https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-Adapter-Ethernet-Passthrough/dp/B0778Y6K6N/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1542725036&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=powerline+adapter


If you do want to go back to cable, I'd suggest that you purchase a used/refurb cable box to avoid the rental fees associated. Or you could get a TiVo/DVR that'll play with your cable company nicely.


There's ways around the cable companies' rental fees.

Related question: How good are solutions like this, which seem to use your house's power wiring for internet?

You can use something link this to get a direct wired connection without actually running any new wires. If you go that route be sure to kind of shop around. I literally just clicked the first thing that I could find on Google but when I got mine from Fry's I think I only paid like $40 and they work just fine.

If you want better than WiFi connectivity without the wiring hassle look into Ethernet over power devices, there are cheaper versions than my example.

It might end up being about the same cost as wiring it up. Getting it prefab you will spend $25 - $40 depending on where you buy it from. To make your wire without any prior supplies you are going to spend about $15 in tools, $2 - $4 for a bag of RJ-45s, and about $2 - $5 for Ethernet cable; total of $$20 - $25.

If you choose to build the cable yourself, it is always better to buy to much than too little.

If you have ubiquitous cable coax receptacles, you can easily wire all your eeros together using MoCA:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008C1JC4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NRjBybF5QP38H

I've got these in my home and they make a perfect backbone for my 3 eeros.

Buy a home plug. They’re very good and they’re basically Ethernet through your mains power supply. You don’t even need to be near the router and can get much better speeds and ping than wireless. You plug one into your router and socket and the other anywhere in your house.


Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-TPL-406E-Adapters-TPL-406E2K/dp/B008F537KC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=Homeplug&qid=1566184567&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzTlJBMFFINUZMWk9DJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjM3MjYwMUk3UzA5S1Q1WjYzViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDM2NDczMjM0MDA5VU9KMlVSQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

yes but if you want higher than ~90mbps you're gonna want a higher end model like this: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV1200-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B01EO5A4TI/

Something like this might help. I'm not recommending that particular model. That was just the top Google result.

I would recommend not going for the wireless card and going for power line adpaters instead, depending on how large your house you will pretty much have 100% wired connection

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA511-Powerline-Starter-Kit/dp/B0081FLFQE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1418337878&sr=8-6&keywords=tp+link+powerline

I have 100mb/s DL and in my room i get 5mb/s on wireless and 90mb/s with these powerline adapters (My room is a bit of a black spot for wireless for no reason i know)

100% would recommend you invest in these instead, currently have about 5 of these

I had a friend ask me this same question not too long ago.

There are several options-

Possibly Free- Update the firmware on the router you do have to a custom firmware and set the Transmit power higher.

$70 - Wireless repeater

$15-20 Swapping existing antennas with High-Gain Antennas. I don't know how helpful this would be.

~$70 - Ethernet over power

Most of the bandwidth is taken up by the PLEX VM, transferring files from the seedbox to local storage, and some light web browsing. Other than that there isn't much network usage for this machine.

Do you have a recommended adapter? I found these that looked pretty decent:

TP-Link AV2000

Extollo Ethernet Powerline LANSocket 1500

NETGEAR PowerLINE PL1200-100PAS

TRENDnet TPL-420E2K

*edit: formatting

I GREATLY recommend aquiring a Powerline Adapter. It essentially is two little boxes you can plug into the wall. Hook one up to the router and then it will push interwebs through your power grid and make it come out at the other adapter which you can place in your room. Then jsut plug in a shorter ehternet cable to that little thing.
Try soemthing like these
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA211-KIT-Powerline-Adapter/dp/B0055XKBW4/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367935143&sr=1-4&keywords=powerline+adapter

I have this one: D-Link Powerline AV2 2000 Adapter Gigabit Extender Starter Kit (DHP-701AV) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVDJQHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1XPZzbT0DX28Q

As for the ping, it's also about 2-3ms faster on Wi-Fi. I'm pretty sure my house just has shitty wiring. The powerlines would occasionally give me the disconnect symbol in rocket league too but it's flawless on Wi-Fi since I upgraded to 802.11ac.

TP-Link seems more or less OK, and their APs usually have the three modes (AP, client, repeater). Also, they sell antennas, which can improve the transmission. But, as I said, I don't have that much experience. I prefer Ethernet.

---

Another possibility: PLC/HomePlug. Example

I use these for Ethernet to my far away from the router cameras:

NETGEAR Powerline adapter 2000 Mbps (2) Gigabit Ethernet Ports with Passthrough + Extra Outlet (PLP2000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0778Y6K6N/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_lsP5AbG5D0JQZ

They work amazingly.

I use this for the camera:

Foscam HD 1080P Outdoor WiFi Security Camera – Weatherproof IP66 Bullet / 2.1MP IP Wireless Surveillance Camera System with iOS/Android App, Night Vision up to 65ft, and More (FI9900P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011US2ADK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ktP5Ab94GF4PK

And I use blue Iris for local recording/monitoring and I use Dropbox to store 30 days of 1 second resolution video (just record to the shared dropbox folder)

This is the kind of image I get at night (camera is mounted to my roof soffet and cables go to my attic to an extension cable with a splitter for the camera and the Ethernet adapter)

Lights on: Night camera with lights on https://imgur.com/gallery/8l5yJoP

Lights off: Night camera lights off https://imgur.com/gallery/BZ1TJSd

Thanks, I read up on it, Would you recommend this for online gaming?
http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-PWR511K01-HomePlug-Powerline-Network/dp/B00871SR68/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1345583266&sr=1-8

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B010Q29OW6

https://smile.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Pass-Through-TPL-407E-TPL-407E2K/dp/B009ZRBXMI

https://smile.amazon.com/Tenda-AV1000-Powerline-Pass-through-1000Mbps/dp/B00S0TGYAI

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Yeah get a remote wired connection (a ”power line” adapter), it’s uses your electrical wiring (via a normal plug) to bypass the WiFi signal and just do wired room to room, very easy to use. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-Adapter-Ethernet-Passthrough/dp/B0778Y6K6N/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Powerline&qid=1574235089&s=electronics&sr=1-4

You could use something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-POE10R-Gigabit-Splitter-compliant/dp/B003CFATQK

Just hack a micro USB connector onto the power output and you can power your Pi safely from any 802.3af switch.

Wanting 1Gbps will obviously increase the cost of the products, as they too must handle the speeds. D-Link do have a Gbps capable powerline; http://us.dlink.com/products/connect/powerline-av2-1000-gigabit-starter-kit/ But they do not sell it at microcenter.

On Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Extender-DHP-701AV/dp/B00PVDJQHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454030402&sr=8-1&keywords=dlink+powerline-av2 . On sale for 35%, you can't beat it really.

Just a thought, if you don't like cords running through your house. Or rather your "other half" don't like it. And wifi can be tricky in XBMC/OpenELEC you could try using a "powerline"-kit.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-TL-PA211-STARTER-KIT/dp/B0055XKBW4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1343464625&sr=8-2&keywords=powerline

It's essentially ethernet over the powerlines, I use it and it works flawlessly. And the connection is encrypted by 128-bit AES.

Good luck!

> good few rooms away

That right there is your problem. Rule of thumb is for every wall or 25 feet you can cut your wifi capability in half. So seems you are doing actually pretty well.

Now I know some people use powerline network adapters and their reliability is about 50/50 whether it makes internet better or worse, might be worth checking into.

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-85Mbps-Powerline-Network-Adapter/dp/B001AZUTCS

On a side note I pay $89 a month for 3mb/s down and 0.75mb/s up so I personally think your just fine.

That looks like it could be a viable solution. I will have a PoE switch, so I could get by with only the splitter. My biggest question now is whether the splitter will fit through the hole required to install the Multisensor. I plan to run the wires when building, but may not install all the sensors straight away.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_3oeFybBS95X7F?th=1

Do not mix match brand and model. Even though hpav2 should be compatible, on paper. The reality is that Broadcom based product such as Tplink av2000 will not work with Qualcomm based on such as Netgear [pl1200]
(https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM).

Better be safe than sorry, pick the same model/brand.

Actiontec GT724WG
details: 54 Mbps Wireless G DSL Gateway
hardware type: DSL Wireless Router
WAN throughput: 24 Mbps
WAN throughput upstream: 1 Mbps
WAN ports: 1

ya its old but its dsl its not going to go very fast your lucky if you get 5 -10 down
I would just make them replace it since your paying for it.

here is a power line adaptor
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010-Powerline-Adapter-500Mbps/dp/B00CUD1M66/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1420519744&sr=8-6&keywords=power+line

and ap http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UBU8IE/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1420519771&sr=1&keywords=ap

Have you considered using a power line? Check it out: https://www.amazon.ca/PowerLine-Gigabit-Network-Adapters-DHP-601AV/dp/B00F0RC97A/ref=asc_df_B00F0RC97A/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292901645034&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10576835451367065038&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000832&hvtargid=pla-491516861742&psc=1

I use one of these, and it works great.

No, you need something like these. They'll give you ethernet connection via your wall power. It's not as fast as straight ethernet but usually much better than your wifi connection.

802.3af/at requires a handshake to deliver power, you'd need something like this to actually get useful power out.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-POE10R-Gigabit-Splitter-compliant/dp/B003CFATQK

A simple shut/no shut on the switchport would enable/disable power.

This works great for me: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008F537KC/

And of you want a built in switch at one end, throw in a http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQN3R80/

Just to clear things up, the ONT is the box that converts the fiber optic signal coming in from the pole to internet and cable TV data your devices can understand. It's essentially the modem. MoCA just means internet data transmitted over coaxial cable. There are three different data connections that FiOS uses:

1. The cable TV connection. This is a one-way connection that goes from the ONT to the cable boxes to provide them with cable TV. It does not go through the router at all. It requires coaxial cable run from the ONT to cable boxes, so if you have FiOS TV you need this connection.
   
   
2. The WAN connection. This carries internet data back and forth between the ONT and router. It can use either Ethernet or MoCA. It CAN STILL BE ON ETHERNET if you have FiOS TV, and must be on Ethernet if your internet connection is above 75/75 mbps. The ONT will be set to use either MoCA or Ethernet for this, and the router will accept either.
   
   
3. The LAN connections. These are between the router and your devices. Each connection can use one of three things: Ethernet, Wi-fi, or MoCA. MoCA uses coaxial cable, and your cable boxes need this connection to get their guide and VOD data. They cannot use Wi-fi or Ethernet. This means you must have coaxial cable run from the router to the cable boxes.
   
   Any FiOS install with internet and TV will have coaxial cable running between the ONT, router, and cable boxes. The cable TV connection and the LAN connection for the cable boxes will always use these cables. The WAN connection normally will as well, but it doesn't have to. If you ALSO have Ethernet cable run between the ONT and router, you can get the ONT set up to use Ethernet for this connection. This is necessary if your internet speed is above 75/75 mbps. You'll still need the coaxial cable for the other two connections (cable TV and LAN) to work.
   
   The important thing is that non-Verizon routers don't have a coaxial cable port to support MoCA, which means your cable boxes won't have a LAN connection to get their guide and VOD data, and your WAN connection must use Ethernet.
   
   Also, none of his affects the other types of LAN connections. The LAN Ethernet ports on the router will always work regardless of whether the WAN connection uses Ethernet or MoCA.
   
   TL:DR: You need Ethernet between the ONT and router for internet speeds above 75/75 mbps, and you can still use it in any circumstance. If you have FiOS TV, you need to use a Verizon router and must have coaxial cables run between the ONT, router, and cable boxes.
   
   There is a way to use your own router and have FiOS TV, but it's complex and expensive. You need a MoCA bridge in addition to your own router. You connect the Coax In jack to your existing Coax wiring that goes to the ONT and cable boxes, and connect an Ethernet cable between the Ethernet port and one of your router's LAN Ethernet ports.

I like the build a lot also something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010-Powerline-Adapter-500Mbps/dp/B00CUD1M66/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1485851142&sr=8-45&keywords=powerline+adapter

Use one of the gigabit 500 AV class adapters. Those should allow you plenty of bandwidth to work with.

I have a 50/25 plan at my parents' house and I use a 500AV gigabit adapter to connect my Xbox One, 360, Wii U, PS2 (for no reason other than I can), and computer. I can maintain a stable internet connection fast enough for low latency gaming and support a simultaneous 1080P HD stream coming down from YouTube.

They also make ones that have built in Wi-Fi hotspots, so you can connect your wireless only devices to a more reliable, more stable connection. Something like this could do the trick:

http://amzn.com/B009WG6K66 (with Wi-Fi, no gigabit)
http://amzn.com/B0081FLFQE (no Wi-Fi, with gigabit)

Instead of drilling a hole, try ethernet over powerline. I use it to extend my wired network to a second floor and it works well. Something like this.

hey there man. noticed your ethernet gripe, have you tried one of these.

They work surprisingly well, I was pretty sceptical at first. I recently used a set to connect my laptop to my router even though it was at the bottom of my garden in a shed. All you need are two sockets on the same fusebox. You can plug the adapters into power strips, one end gets plugged into router/nearest ethernet port, other end gets plugged in next to the computer and that's it. It's transparent to the computer, it just thinks it's connected over ethernet to your router.

I haven't really looked into the 5GHz band at all. Are there any good tools that would be able to tell me what bands are being used by neighbors and how the channel saturation is?

As for powerline adapters, these were the two models I saw in stores while I was out: Netgear XWNB5201 and Netgear XVAVB5201, although it looks like these are only 10/100

The weird thing is it's only this particular game out of all the ones I have on my PC that's caused these types of issues.

Don't use wifi either. Use powerline. There is a starter kit on Amazon for about 30 bucks. It uses your power lines in your home to act as an Ethernet cable. Almost as good as a straight up Ethernet cable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CUD1M66/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1426868258&sr=8-2&keywords=tp+link+powerline&dpPl=1&dpID=41KVb629u6L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

This is the next best thing to hardwiring directly to the router.

Run a cable with a power line kit. There is always an option to run a cable if you have an outlet near by.

This is your best option

[This is what I have.] (http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-N300-Starter-XWNB5201/dp/B009WG6K66)

It was working perfectly for a bit more than a month, wireless included.

Yes. It's just like plugging any other device through Ethernet into your routers ports.


I have this one.

I second the powerline adapter. I've had this Actiontec 500 Mbps powerline adapter for a few months and I love it.

They do have cable to ethernet adapters (not unifi stuff and you are gonna be limited on speeds and look at the distance of said devices)

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-Service-ECB2500C/dp/B008C1JC4O

However that is a bit of money to test something

To get the best results and be solid down the road you will want to do a point to point bridge from the house to the barn and then have an access point out there for your clients to get wireless connectivity

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009ZRBXMI

Most of them support 500mbps or higher. I have a powerline adapter at home. It's like being plugged into the router itself. Now, if you live in a large house and your input is on one side, and your pc is on the other, it might not work as well.

If the second router does not fix this (wireless signal does not pass through the floor at all,) something along the lines of a Powerline adaptor-UK || Powerline Adaptor-US could be a possible solution?
Source - I use a similar solution to connect a laptop in a room that does not receive a wireless signal from the router.

I use these and they work great.

I recently dealt with Unifi G3 cameras and a 802.3af-only switch. My solution was to buy a load of passive POE injectors and these TP-Link POE splitters, saved 50% of the cost of buying Ubiquiti Instant-POE adapters.

Perhaps look into a powerline adapter, I have one of these and it works great (going from 1st to 2nd floor, end to end) http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-PWR511K01-HomePlug-Powerline-Network/dp/B00871SR68/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1344224536&sr=1-1&keywords=action+tec+500

You should know that having a streaming device like a Roku on a wireless network will easily impact any other device on that same wifi signal. I understand you're splitting the wireless up to resolve an existing problem but you're still going to have issues.

Two Xbox Ones and a Roku? That's three major bandwidth hogging devices on one wireless line, they're going to be completely obliterating that bandwidth and the people using them are going to go nuts. For stationary devices, always go gigabit ethernet but I presume that's not possible here.

You should consider wiring the Xbox One's using a few of these TP-Link routers. They work well in my experience.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IBPLI48/ref=twister_B00RGP7N70?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Wireless will be too unpredictable for online gaming. The people browsing the internet on portable devices can deal with peaks and valleys of internet speed much more than someone playing a game online.

I wish I could find this in a 48v to 5v version (for standard POE to RPi). I've been looking but haven't found one yet. Right now I'm using this. Holy smokes, the price on these splitters dropped by almost half -- I'm betting because of RPi users buying them. Ok, nevermind, I guess I'll just stick with the TP-Link splitters since the price dropped so much.

If you use these splitters though, the only way I've found to get them to work is to take the barrel connector cable they come with and cut it in half and join it (splice the wires together, solder and cover with a shrink tubing -- put the tubes on the wires before connecting the wires, doh!) with a snipped micro-usb cable that connects to the Pi power. Keep the cable length down to about 8-12 inches.

If you want a stable, fast connection get a powerline adapter. It'll act like a wired connection. This may not work if your house is very old.

I mean Power Line Comunication:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-Adapter-Ethernet-Passthrough/dp/B0778Y6K6N/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=powerline&qid=1558372125&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

Well, i dont use switches because i want all my cables inside the walls and my actual tubes cant hold more cables. So i can make new holes in the walls to put more tubes in it, or use PLCs. I thought that this was obvious, sorry.

​

Thank you.

I bought this kit. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00871SR68/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

All you need to do is plug an ethernet cable from your router into one adapter and plug that adapter into the wall, and then plug another ethernet cable from your other adapter into your computer and plug that adapter into the wall. Super simple setup.

Powerline adapters are super clutch. My router is on an opposite side of the my house too so I picked up of these as a work around.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZRBXMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3KaDAb0G5XVXH

No, it's affecting my ethernet connection. The wifi in this room has always been crappy, but it's definitely unusable now. Although now that I think about it, my ethernet is via an adapter like one of these. Maybe it's interfering with the Netgear adapter which in turn hits my connection.

Something like this may work for you.

TRENDnet Power Line 1200 AV2 Adapter Starter Kit, 2 Adapters Included with Gigabit Port, Plug and Play, MIMO, Beamforming, TPL-420E2K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7NJWOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WHUOBbMXBVCXB

I'm not so sure. I run 4 EoPs in my house and over 30 connected devices to them. I get Gigabit speeds regardless of where I go and regardless of which EoP I connect to. What model are your EoPs. Amazon is selling some Gigabit ones for pretty cheap right now.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Pass-through-1200Mbps-TL-PA8030P-KIT/dp/B00Y3QYTS6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1497923592&sr=8-8&keywords=tp+link+powerline+adapter

I used these powerline adapters for the last year. After we moved into our current house, we're split between three levels and there was no realistic way to hardwire anything without serious cost.

I ended up using 4 of them. Modem went into one, one was upstairs on my PC (which is also the plex server), one was downstairs in a rec room, and the other was behind our TV in the living room for the xbox.

The speed of the connection was a bit slower (65 mbps versus the 100 connected straight into the modem), but I didn't have any issues with connections dropping or anything.

But then last week, I got a new ISP and they brought these sweet coax-to-ethernet things and now it's hardwired through the walls.

It's called a powerline. We use two for our small apartment: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-existing-electrical-TPL-406E2K/dp/B008F537KC/

Basically, it works like an ethernet plug. One is connected to the router and plugged into a wall socket. Another is plugged into another wall socket (our home office) and connected to the PC. Works really well.

Perhaps you could use something like this? Works really well for me.

As mentioned here. Get a pair or more of these...
http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-PWR511K01-HomePlug-Powerline-Network/dp/B00871SR68/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1373891702&sr=8-8&keywords=powerline

They are cheap and they work great for home use. I pay for about 15 mbps down internet service and I can consistently get this out of these adapters. You basically plug one in to your main router and plug the other adapter(s) in the rooms you need connection. You can also just plug up an access point and then your not dealing with signal degradation of extenders.

I would recommend getting the 500mbps version as the 200 can be less than optimal. As posted below, Netgear makes an excellent Powerline product but they are a bit more expensive for the 500.

I have this one, but and kit sold by a big manufacturer should be good. They come in a lot of different bandwidth ratings, so make sure the one you buy is rated for the connection speed you need.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003CFATQK

That's cheaper at $15 and offers selectable output of 5/9/12 volts, perfect for a fan. I used it with it's splitter counterpart to power a switch in a drop ceiling and it works great - I can't comment how well it works with a PoE switch, but it claims it is 802.3af compliant.

Not sure about the security aspect, but these look like they would work: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Adapters-Included-Beamforming-TPL-420E2K/dp/B00S7NJWOM

home/proto you can chuck it on the plastic (aluminium will short it out) but for deployment definitely screw it down. if the box risers don't line up, you can mount pi to perspex first then screw or glue that to the box. wood is ok for proto but beware the fire risk..

a lot more drilling and screwing than the kits but that's half the fun ;p (and final product can be almost military grade with enough care)

these are also good'n'cheap poe if space not an issue

I made a post about this yesterday and somebody recommended this... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_W.cdAb83366N9

You get two adapters, plug one in by your modem and connect via ethernet cable and plug the other by your Xbox and connect it via ethernet cable. They talk to each other through your electrical system and I guess are as good as being hardwired to your modem.

I have this one and it works wonderfully. No speed drop and having the passthrough is really nice. I got it on sale so it wasn't nearly that much.

I'm using Netgear's PowerLine 1000, but there's also the PowerLine 1200 that has up to a 1200 Mb/s speed for like $10 more.

Well if they don't have hardwired internet you could get them those internet outlet adapter things, like this.

Go with powerline adapters. They use the power circuits in your house to extend the network upstairs. Better performance than WiFi.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM/

You may want to look into Ethernet-over-powerline solutions like this:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-N300-Starter-XWNB5201/dp/B009WG6K66/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481760915&sr=1-3&keywords=netgear+powerline+ethernet

Yup, USB NICs are notorious for being finicky, even the best pale in comparison to a similarly priced PCI-E NIC. Also, if you share a circuit with the other room powerline adapters are a decent option.

Here's the exact item I purchased - link to amazon

They do work every well, but you have to make sure that the two adapters connect on the same side of your circuit breaker, otherwise you may not get a signal. They are a very handy way to get wired feeds around your house, though.

Yep, powerline adaptors. I bought these and I couldn't be happier. Faster than wifi, and 100% discreet.

At least it beats the Cat 5 cable I had taped to my floor down my hallway for about 2 months. :)

There is a box at the other end that splits it out into a regular power connector, pretty handy!

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526833321&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+poe+splitter

It lets you select the voltage

I should have added this into my original responding comment but another commenter shared this link. If I got something like this would this help solve my problem or continue doing what u explained ?

Trying to skirt around PCI compliance is not something you wanna get caught doing. I assume your talking about this and not POE. I've seen you've updated your comment. I can not speak on part of the regulators but I assume it has something to do with having wires being intrinsically safe. They are not so much worried about things exploding but concerned about having high voltage exposed to people and devices it's not suppose to be.

Depending on how your system was installed, you may have infinite options. For example my system was installed with CAT5 from my ONT to my Actiontec. I have the Actiontec in bridge mode for the cable boxes, and I have my own router in front of that so I can block Verizon's "helpful" punching of holes through my firewall.

If you have just the coax from the ONT, I have been told any MOCA adapter will work. I have not had the opportunity to try this yet, but maybe some internet searches for MOCA can help. Here's an example of what I am talking about: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-Service-ECB2500C/dp/B008C1JC4O

These work for me much better than wireless. Also, are you running the static IP through your router's DMZ?

I'm on mobile right now, but googling "smallnetbuilder" powerline or something like that should turn something up. I bought this one based on their review https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IBPLI48/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> Oh man, now I kinda want to see someone pull this one off.

This witchcraft is pretty awesome

You'll probably be okay with that powerline adapter. I haven't seen any bad adapters that don't work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sue1Zvmh8JA

If all else fails, just return it and try a different one.

IMO, you probably don't need to spend that much on your adapter. If you're running at 100-200mbps, you're probably okay with something like this [TP-Link AV500] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q29OW6) or TP-Link AV1200

I have the TP Link AV 1200 3 port. This allows me to connect up to 3 ethernet cables at each end which was my main reason plus the transfer speed to get it. Many of the available options only have one port. Can't speak for any others. Looks like they are currently $69.99 a pair on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Pass-through-1200Mbps-TL-PA8030P-KIT/dp/B00Y3QYTS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480031276&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+av1200

I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM) and it works pretty swell.

If there's no ethernet wiring in your house, a powerline adaptor is a good way to get good internet connection when the wifi is weak. something like this - https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-500Mbps-TL-PA4010/dp/B00CUD1M66/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484260399&sr=1-5&keywords=powerline+adapter You'll also need two ethernet cables.

Ethernet over power my friend
http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-over-POWER-Adapter-Pair/dp/B004C4XWN2

You can try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-85Mbps-Powerline-Network-Adapter/dp/B001AZUTCS

It lets you run the internet through your power lines. You may see more or less success with this depending on if appliances disrupt your signal. The one I linked is pricey but they sell similar devices for around $30.

You may consider a pair of Powerline adapters, with multiple Ethernet ports.

The additional ports on the adapter allow it to function as a network switch, increasing the number of devices you can connect near your router or freeing up existing ports.

Connection quality dependent on the quality and complexity of the electrical circuitry in your home.

I use this exactly model (TL-PA8030) in my home, but there are less expensive models (good idea if you want to test the connection quality first).

I'm using this one

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EO5A4TI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

"gigabit" lol, I barely get 100 megabit speeds on it. My house was built in 2001 so it's not extremely old or anything, but don't expect you'll get gigabit speeds through the power lines in your house.

https://i.imgur.com/LWWwYjl.png

Top image is my main computer connected directly to my switch. Bottom image is my server using powerline in the other room.

You can also try something like one of these if you have the money to spare: (amazon link).

I haven't been able to try them myself yet, and there may be other brands or types that may be better or worse, that is just the one I had bookmarked for reference. I heard about them while I was playing with a guy on Rocket League and he said it worked wonders for him because his wifi signal kept getting blocked/interfered with by many things in the way.

A ethernet cable generally has a maximum network speed of 1 Gigabit per second. Using a power line adapter you can get pretty much the same depending on how much you want to pay for one. Here is one that can do 1 gigabit for example:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B01EO5A4TI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881998&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet%2Bpowerline%2Badapter&th=1

If there's no easy way to connect the ethernet, I recommend a powerline adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Pass-Through-TPL-407E-TPL-407E2K/dp/B009ZRBXMI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=passthrough+powerline+adapter&qid=1566221672&s=gateway&sr=8-5


This is what I have, but it's a UK plug: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-PA4010PKIT-Passthrough-Powerline-Configuration-Required/dp/B01G5Q9E0O/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3NIL3KU72PS4B&keywords=tp+link+powerline+adaptor&qid=1566221776&s=gateway&sprefix=tp+link+powerline%2Caps%2C275&sr=8-6

Exactly what I was going to say.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-XAVB101-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B001AGM2VI

really really recommend.