Reddit mentions: The best riveters

There’s only so much a powered all-in-one sub combo can do. It’s all a compromise.


They’re not going to be able to compete with a more robust external amp, a full-size driver, and an enclosure with adequate volume.


I’m just saying to temper your expectations.


but regardless of what you have, the box should definitely be secured. ESPECIALLY SO if the box shares the same space as passengers. It’s a major hazard in the event of a crash.


Apart from getting thrown around, any energy spent vibrating/shaking the box is lost output.


Whatever the gear, I’m all for installing it in the proper way to let it reach it’s potential.


......


There’s multiple ways to do it:


L-Brackets are one, like 4 of em, decent sized, screwed/bolted right to the side of the box and then secured to the floor.

To do that, you could drill through the floor pan and use a nut and bolt to secure the brackets


Kind of a pain to remove the box that way....and just in general.


Better would be to slip a board under the carpet/liner; bolt that through the floor, and use insert nuts to add threads to the board that you can screw the L-brackets to.


and even better than that, skip the nuts and bolts and use threaded rivets to add threads directly to the metal floor pan


That does involves buying another tool, though. There’s a cheaper version at Harbor Freight, but the rivets are soft and somewhat prone to spinning in the hole.


The easiest method overall is to just use a ratchet strap over the top, secured to cargo hooks. Which you can add if need be with the techniques above.


....


If you drill:

Always check, double check where you’re drilling; and anytime you drill through painted metal, good to use touch-up paint around the hole or at least apply some grease to prevent rust.


It really helps to set a centering divot with a punch or hammer and a nail. It’ll keep the bit from wandering

When installing the acrylic sheet, you could use some long standoff screws to make it stand clear of that stuff (would leave a nice gap for the fans as well).

As far as hiding the cables, would be a lot easier to move the drives like mousse_au_chocolat mentioned first, then you could cover it with just about anything. Find a piece of plastic or sheet metal (if you have an old case laying around you could harvest from that), cut to size, paint black if needed, and screw/rivet into place. Then you could use shorter standoffs (which I would recommend as opposed to mounting it flat, face to face). If you're going to cut holes for the fans, mounting flat would be fine. But you would also be wise to get some kind of screen or dust filter to put over the fans.

Grills are another (mostly cosmetic) option: https://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-cooling-fans-grills-custom/

Modder's Mesh: https://mnpctech.com/?subcats=Y&pcode_from_q=Y&pshort=Y&pfull=Y&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=mesh&dispatch=products.search

Rivet gun: https://www.amazon.com/ARROW-Riveter-Professional-Assorted-Rivets/dp/B07GDK8K71/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=rivet+gun&qid=1566682977&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFCNllCQVBHWjNSTzQmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwMjQ4MjkyQjdPQUhVM0JNTzNOJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMzA2MjAzRFJCUjdQV1JSUzlMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

If you can't move the drives, your only other option really is to make your own enclosure, or find something that happens to fit and figure out a way to secure it. Use your imagination! That's what modding is all about, finding creative solutions for your individual needs, (and adding some style ofc).

Example: you could also take that idea a little further: cut a few more strips of plastic/alum. to cover the spaces around the fans and make a clean, flat surface. Then cover the flat surface with some carbon fiber looking vinyl wrap (or some other texture effect), and maybe still put an acrylic panel over that as well. Kind of like this guy: https://imgur.com/a/DxpTtMd

I actually have some vinyl that was just delivered at my Amazon locker while typing this, on my way out the door right now. I have a white theme with my case + peripherals so I got a few to try out and return if I don't like something. Finally can make my monitors, speakers, etc. go along with the theme:

3M 1080 Carbon Fiber White https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N03A1EF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ,
3M 1080 Carbon Fiber Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3YIGRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , and
VViViD "Oil slick" color shift purple-blue https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QZPDD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Kreg pocket hole jig -- $40 to make carpentry projects super easy.
  
• Rivnut tool -- for mounting things to sheet metal.
  
• Shop towels -- more versatile paper towels.
  
• good cooler -- ice last 5-8 days even in the middle of summer heat.
  
• bug nets for windows -- but them pre-made or build your own. Gives you airflow in summer without letting the bugs in.
  
• candle lantern -- cheap. Safe if you blow it out before crawling into bed. Nice soft lighting to give you a break from blue LEDs.
  
• Aeropress coffee maker -- great coffee where ever you are. Quick and easy to clean.
  
• mechanic gloves -- for when you've got to do work and don't want super greasy hands and bloody knuckles.

Very nice quiver and thanks for my next project. I really love working with leather.
For those who want to get started it's not that expensive of a hobby. As for leather it's actually fairly cheap and most projects don't go over $25 in supplies. It's about $100 to get the tools you'll need and although their not top of the line they will last quite a while.

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Here's Mopar's instructions for removing the front fascia. Just disregard the part of the instruction about removing the chrome grill surrounds (that has nothing to do with what you're doing)

Tool for putting in plastic pop rivets

plastic pop rivets

replaceable rivet clips - not really necessary as you can re-use the ones you take out. But good to have handy.

Trim removal tool - not completely necessary, but helps to have them and prevents scratching things

at 10mm deep socket - this is necessary to get 2 nuts that are stuffed up in the fender. You'll also need a long extension to get to those

It took me about 5 hours to do start to finish, by myself in my garage. Only help I had was lifting the front fascia off (my wife helped) because you really need 2 people lifting (one on each end) to get it off without breaking anything. If you have someone to help you, you can get it done in much less time

You drill rivets out. Hammering it out will bend surrounding metal.

To put anything stronger than aluminum rivets back in, the hardware store hand riveters aren't strong enough. I use one like this for stainless rivets.

But /u/guygan is right. Sounds like you have something like this. Replace it with this

By tool do you mean the Rivnut setter? I got that from Amazon because I saw that it was a recommended tool to use from reading reviews about it. It ended up being pretty easy to do though and not that hard. This is the tool I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TODXQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 Nut/Thread Setting Hand Riveter Kit, 13-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TU1Lyb9HBZE1D

This is nice.

I have one exactly like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Cutter-Breaker-Riveting-Riveter/dp/B00CFQ5GY2

Almost a decade in my shop, I usually buy the DID 530 chain too, older VM and now VX

The pro official one makes sense if you have in mind doing a lot of chains a year, or prefer buying serious lifetime tools (not bad plan at all) but the cheapo works fine for occasional jobs (I've done like 10-15 uses with it, for me & my friends). It's a bit delicate, and is barely capable on undoing a rivet after removing head (I use a cut disk for cutting the whole chain, a lot faster than unrivetting, takes seconds), but for rivetting works just fine.

Second this. It's a revnut or pemnut. Did use them extensively, pretty sure you can't retap it, it would just spin.

The tool to install them is here https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TODXQW

I'd just rip it out and put in a new one.

Rivets can be replaced - it just depends how you want to deal with the paint. Rivet gun, rivets. That said, I probably would just leave it together for painting. Happy hunting!

Not completely. You have to install rivnuts in the subframe and in the framerail. You have to install rivnuts in the subframe for any manufacturers x brace though. Using the e36 M3/z3 cross brace mounts on the frame rather than on the control arm bushing mounts for e30 specific ones.

I bought a rivnut installation tool for other projects so I already had one on hand. You can get cheap aluminum rivnuts from harbor freight, but I wouldn't recommend them. I'd go with steel ones.

This is the one I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-1427-Hand-Rivet-Nut/dp/B004KLVJAA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501679923&sr=8-4&keywords=rivnut

And you'd want to get these (you need 4x M8 and 2x M12, IIRC) style rivnuts:

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-150pcs-Plated-Threaded-Nutsert/dp/B01I3Y0ZHC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501679923&sr=8-2&keywords=rivnut

Welp, that's like an eight hour drive.

In that case, you need a rivet gun like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SFDM

You need one with an abnormally long nose like that to reach through the inner door skin; a normal one you can grab at the hardware store won't work because of that.

Remember that fridges all have hardware attachment points for door handles and hinges, and that those screw points can be used. The non side-by-side fridges have provision for reversing the hinges, so there are very sturdy hinge mounting points that are just sitting there unused on the handle edge.

It won't keep out a determined burglar, but some d-ring-hangers as for artwork can often have additional holes drilled that will line up with fridge handle screws -- and can be mounted while leaving the fridge door handles in place. That gives a spot to look a cable or small chain and travel-lock.

The most elegant solution I've seen was at a house where the parent removed and stored the grill from the bottom front of the single-door fridge, and then made a wooden spacer in order to make the bolt for a patio door aux lock line up with the vestigial 3/8 hinge-pin-hole on the bottom edge of the door. The screws to mount the wood block were all in a spot that would be behind the grill when it is replaced (and you can see what's behind the flange, so you know it is safe to drill!), and the lock mounts easily to the wood.

EDIT: A similar thing can be done with mending plates that have a plunger lock pop-riveted to them –– mount the mending plates to the unused hinge-bracket holes at the top and bottom of the fridge, lining up the plunger to fit the hinge-pin hole at the top of the freezer door and bottom of the fridge door. Will require drilling the mending plate with holes that match hole positions on the fridge and lock.

If the existing handles are loop handles and it is a side-by-side, there are adjustable cable locks. If they aren't loop handles, it may be that replacement loop handles area available for a sister-model of the fridge and will bolt into the same holes.

If the vestigial center hinge-bracket holes have a hole that is visible through the slot between the fridge and freezer doors, you can use that hole for a matching-thread-size eye-bolt long enough to put half the eye exposed in front of the door - then a padlock through the eye will stop both fridge and freezer from opening, and the portion of the eye trapped between the two doors will stop the eye from being turned to remove it unless both doors are open.

Are they pop push rivets? A pop push rivet will look a bit like a target from above. There is a small circle inside the larger circle of the rivet head.

If so, Find something small to press into the small hole. That will allow you to pull the rivet up from above.

Once you've done that, press the end of the rivet (the bottom) up. That smaller circle will now be sticking up above the head of the rivet. Insert it into the rivet hole, then press the small circle until it is flush with the head.

Edit: Here's a push rivet. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Hardware-2005-6SRIV-Nylon-Rivet/dp/B00HMZEXSG

Yes, about 565 is your circumference. The thickness of the sheet metal might throw you off a little bit though. Leave some extra, depending how you join them. I would get a rivet gun on amazon for $12.

You can simply overlap the ends and rivet it, or you can fold both end in at 90 degree angles (+ a few degrees to keep the circle) and rivet them on the inside.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6555-Rivet-40-Piece-Rivets/dp/B000NPT74C/

Forsee this in your future....
Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 13" Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit - Metric & SAE W/ 60pc Rivnuts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3EpADb59QG8P4

Rivnuts, Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 Nut/Thread Setting Hand Riveter Kit, 13-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5ZXYzb1S8Z4Y7

Here's a video of a guy installing without the special tool : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Og-tHIR_0I

But if you're installing a bunch, i own and recommend this tool : https://www.amazon.com/Astro-1427-Hand-Rivet-Nut/dp/B004KLVJAA/

The riveter-less method would allow you to pull it off in a much tighter space.

You can pop those real easy with a few minutes and a chain splitter.

https://www.amazon.ca/Splitter-Breaker-Riveting-Riveter-Motorcycle/dp/B01M4RZSGJ

Easy way is to use a rivnut gun or you could use a nut and bolt to Magyver it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeaMsvai0FA

pick this up and make your life easier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TODXQW

I’m not sure of the size, but I’m sure almost any plastic push rivet will do.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Hardware-2005-6SRIV-Nylon-Rivet/dp/B00HMZEXSG

I'd get a pop riveter and rivet it back on.

http://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-6555-Rivet-40-pc-Rivets/dp/B000NPT74C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451337214&sr=8-1&keywords=riveter

$12 and it comes with the rivets.

I'd use a cheap H&M belt as a source of p/leather. Or maybe go to nylon - it's pretty tough stuff. Wrap through the handle then loop & river to the metal pieces. Once that's assembled rivet the metal pieces to the body of the bag.

You would need a rivet tool, something kinda like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-MR100CG-Contractor-Grade-Riveter/dp/B000BR7JUG/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2YFD78B0SP2ZA&keywords=rivet+gun&qid=1550706310&s=gateway&sprefix=rivet%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-9

Rivets cannot be reused. Drill the rivet out and replace it with another one. You may be able to find them at a specialized hardware store such as Fastenal as single units. If not, you will likely have to purchase a lot of 80 or so online from someone like Granger. Remember to match the metal type which I assume is aluminum.

You will need to buck the rivet to install it. There is plenty of resources on Youtube on how to properly buck rivets and you can get a rivet set on [Amazon}(https://www.amazon.com/Air-Capital-Rivet-Set-Kit/dp/B0046AQKH2)

We use this or this when air not available. Both are inexpensive and work well.

Here's the tool with packs of "pop" rivets that you can find on Amazon. Basically the rivet end get's pushed through a pilot hole to fasten two pieces of metal where you can't get access to the rear to screw on a nut. The pliers type tool grabs the nails and pulls the rivet up against a small anvil. This pressure eventually deforms the soft aluminum rivet as the head of the nail gets pulled into the thick heart of the rivet. When the head of the nail is wedged tightly against the rear plate, the pressure breaks the nail off flush with the front plate.

Trumpeter also makes a tool like this [Amazon Link](https://www.amazon.com/Trumpeter-TSM-9910-Rivet-Maker/dp/B001JJZ2FE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509652969&sr=8-1&keywords=trumpeter+rivet&dpID=41pQvZ0MxdL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
). I picked one up but have yet to use it.

I was going to say the only problem with using rivets is that you have to buy the gun that pops them but at this price it's hard to say no. Rivets are awesome http://www.amazon.com/King-2-way-Hand-Riveter/dp/B0047BD0AU

Ah, you don't want pop rivets, you want grommets. But I suspect that what you ultimately want is something like this, and they come in plenty of colors to boot. The nylon is not really good for grommets, but you could hang the bags on some hooks.

not at all, rivets are way, WAY easier to remove than rusted and stripped screws.

Use a drill with a bit slightly larger than the hole in the middle of the rivet

Once you try it, you'll see that rivets are way, way less permanent than you would first think.

You can even re-assemble it when you're done with a cheap rivet kit. Or use a screw.

looks like an at home rivet gun

https://www.amazon.com/HR-705-Blind-Rivet-Tool-Small/dp/B00T6BZSJC

Here's the tool on Amazon.

Fastener Tip: After repetitive lip, well liner and bottom plate issues... mostly just due to initial clip loss (brutal new england construction and winters)... I bought a pvc rivet gun from Woot @ $15 and tossed it in my trunk. Covers multiple diameter sizes.

Astro 1445:
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-1445-90-Degree-Riveter-Plastic/dp/B00B4NXWSO

this is what I'm doing:

I bought something called "rivnuts" and the rivnut tool https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004KLVJAA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You drill the appropriate hole in the wall, insert the threaded rivnut, and use the tool to crush the rivnut, which fastens it to the wall. It is designed to deform in such a way when crushed that the threads are preserved, and the way it deforms it creates a small plate of metal on the back side of the wall, reinforcing the hole. So now you have a threaded insert, which reinforces the wall.

I cut my strip of wood to fit, and drill a hole in it to match the rivnut. Then I bolt the wood to the wall and use that bolt as an anchor to hold the strip of wood in place, and I drill additional holes through the wood, and use it as a guide to drill more holes in the wall. In this way the rivnuts line up and I can mount the strips of wood to the wall, and make a frame out of them.

After you drill the holes, get a metal nibbler and cut the hole square, then use some carriage bolts.

Or buy a rivet nut tool

https://www.amazon.com/rzx-4-20m10-24-Riveter-Riveting-Setting/dp/B06XVB3MMG/ref=asc_df_B06XVB3MMG/

rivet gun

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6555-Rivet-40-Piece-Rivets/dp/B000NPT74C

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW3k3_sbkyc

It is also known as a pop rivet, to be used with a pop rivet gun.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6555-Rivet-40-Piece-Rivets/dp/B000NPT74C

This is all you need. Put a rivet in the gun, line the rivet tip up with your mag's pinhole and squeeze.

You need one of these.

ARROW Heavy Duty Riveter Kit, Professional Pop Rivet Gun with Assorted 120 Rivets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDK8K71/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HnbECbDT81RJ9

Primed the model, Found detailed drawings of the panel lines. Marked up in pencil, then used a Trumper rivet wheel (Link) and ran down all the pencil lines.

Gives the model more detail... I hope...

First time doing it, if there's no real difference I'd cry :P