You can do a lot with an arduino, but that requires some basic knowledge of how to wire one up have it interpret your inputs, convert those into outputs, and wire up lights and such.

To get started, there is an easier way. First, you need one of these($12), then something like this($9...ish) in a size that works for you, then a couple of packs of momentary switches ($15 for 20 of these or find some you like better).

That brings us to $36 for a basic control box that can support 12 general buttons and 4 directional buttons (Up, Down, Left, Right).

Plan your layout on a piece of paper and move the buttons around until you have a setup that looks ok, drill or cut holes in the project box (this is easier if it is the plastic kind) that are the right size to insert the buttons and tighten the nuts on the back to hold them in place, attach the provided wires to the buttons (there isn't a backwards so you can't mess up) and plug the other end in the board (it has a plug so you can't mess up). Once everything is connected to the board, make a cut at the edge of the box at the back for the USB cord to come out of, screw the project box together, and plug it in and set your bindings in ED.

DONE!

If you want to get fancy, I put something like this on the side of the box (counts as two buttons for the board) and use that for vertical (up/down) thrust. I put in one of these instead of directional buttons and glued one of these on top, but for that you will need to figure out a little simple wiring (it isn't too hard if you feel up to it). I also replaced one of my buttons with this FA toggle with a light (need to wire the light to an unused pin on the board that has power, but not too hard).

Yes, those options add some work and raise the price, but I love the thing. It is easy to use, responsive, far better than a flight throttle in my opinion.. I will never give it up. I am already planning the next version, which will probably use the same board, but require a little more technical know how to build.

For now though, start with the $36 version. You can always buy another $9 box down the road and a few more buttons to improve and rebuild it as you gain skill and confidence. Maybe someday you will move on to an arduino, which can support a lot more buttons, interaction, and customization, but you don't need to start there.

Some people have PMed asking for more info, so I may as well put it here.

I used the following:

Monoprice
8inch 28AWG High Speed Male to Female HDMI® Port Saver - Black
For the hdmi port. I also bought another hdmi piece, like a corner basically, it's in some of the early pics, but I didn't use it in the final build.


Tiesto USB Hub 2.0 4-port/4 port hub USB 2.0 Speed Cute Octopus Design - BLACK
I removed the black case on this as well as the black rubber around the usb ports. Then basically hot glued the ports in place against painters tape to make it even and smooth.

Your Cable Store
6 inch USB Micro male to female OTG extension cable
I cut these in half and spliced it into the original Gamecube power switch/button. That way I can leave my pi plugged in and switch it on like a normal console.

Evercool 60x60X10mm 5v Ball Bearing Fan, 3 Pin EC6010M05CA
I set up these fans to run off the main power, so they turn off and on with the pi.

To take apart each Gamecube, i bought this screwdriver.


Also got each person a Buffalo Classic USB Gamepad for PC
And a Retrolink N64 Style Classic Controller For PC

I forgot to mention, I took apart and weighted the buffalo classic usb controllers to be closer to the weight and feel of the original snes controller.
The exact increase in weight is about 10 pennies, but I used 8, 4 on each side, inside the controller, in stacks, glued in, because 8 fit better than 10.

It's a really tiny thing, but if you weight one controller and then hold an unweighted and a weighted one to compare, the unweighted one feels like a toy.

The N64 controller felt decently heavy on it's own. (Plus the rumble pack used to make them super heavy and I wasn't going to try and match that weight.)

Other things, these have in them the pi2 with 1gb of ram. I bought the 2 amp power supplies that are recommended for the pi.

I also bought some other odds and ends: ethernet couplers, each pi has a 16gb sd card in it.

I also replaced the power switch in my final one (the silver one) because I damaged the original switch. I used these switches.

I bought Rust-Oleum metalic base and Dupli-color spray paints.

Tools/materials used:
Bought a dremel, didn't need it.

Used my soldering iron and clamps constantly.

Used a lot of hot glue and gorilla glue.

Mod podge for applying the logos to the top of the cases. I also had some spray sealant from another project I put on the logos, before I applied them to the cases, so the ink wouldn't smear.

I used a fair bit of heat shrink and electrical tape. Also wires with couplers so the entire bottom of the console can unplug from the top if I need to repair something. Basically these though not the same brand.

Much of my job is working with electronics and soldering so this was all fairly easy for me. If you're new to building and soldering, please be careful. I've cut myself and burnt myself quite a few times. Be more careful than me.

I posted this in DIY Wednesday, but the post was removed/hidden after I edited for some reason. I would've messaged the mods but it was Xmas eve and I had stuff to do.

Current projects in progress, they will each earn their own post on completion.

Chugger Toolbox - still waiting on the illuminated push button on/off switch

Dry Hop Dip Tube - need to find a better option for the base, the part that I ordered basically left ~1" of space on the bottom of the keg that would be unreachable so I'm looking for a better option.

EDIT: Dip tube, not drip tube

EDIT2: Some additional info now that I have more time (Imgur was not really cooperating earlier and I was in a hurry to get out the door after finally getting the pics uploaded).

The chugger toolbox will be wired with the pictured three prong plug with illuminated on/off switch and fuse. If that switch is on, the fan will be running and the circuit controlling the pump will be powered provided that the green illuminated push button switch is on (still waiting on this part to come in the mail). I plan to enclose the majority of the electronics in water resistant junction boxes in case of any leakage but I don't think that this will be a major concern and I plan to include a few drain holes in the bottom so that any potential leak would be noticed and not fill up the toolbox. The fuse as well as the use of a GFCI outlet will be additional safety measures against shorts.

The dip tube will be installed in a 5gal ball lock corny that will become my dedicated dry hopping keg. I brew a lot of hop forward beers and haven't been content with any dry hopping methods that I've attempted yet so I'm hoping that this will be the solution. The idea is that I could dump as much pellet hops in the keg as I want and after a 5-9 day dry hop, transfer to a new clean keg. I'm using a 300 micron 1x14 inch tubular screen sold for dry hopping in carboys that I hope will provide enough surface area for a good constant flow but I've considered ways of restricting the outflow if needed. From there, I've been playing around with 304 stainless fittings to find what would work; a 3/4"x1/8" reducing bushing works great at the top with a pretty tight (but not perfect) fit for a dip tube to pass through but I'm having trouble coming up with a good plug for the bottom that won't prevent the dip tube from getting to the last inch or two of beer.

It works the other way. A 40 meter dipole will work on 15 meters (3rd harmonic) just fine, but not vice-versa. I don't think anyone has really figured out a way to make a small antenna really work like a larger one.

May I suggest an invisible or near-invisible antenna for HF at 100 watts or less? Specifically, an end-fed section of small (say #22) copper wire. Make it a bit longer than 1/4 wavelength on the lowest frequency you plan to operate. Ideally, parallel one for 80, 40 and 20 meters. With almost any tuner, you can handle all the HF bands, including 160 meters. For insulators, use ordinary shirt buttons. At low power levels, you can even run the wires straight up into a tree if you don't have more than one. They don't have to be straight, either. Just use buttons and small nylon twine or fishing line to support them.

Then use what I call the "available metal" approach for a counterpoise/ground system. Be sure to have a fairly large wire to a good outdoor ground rod if possible. Then connect any spare wire you have, stapled to the rafters in the attic or laying on the ground in your crawl space. Tie it to your rain gutters if you can, or to any steel in your building. Copper water pipes are great.

I've used this approach in a college dorm, a couple of apartments and houses. It has always worked pretty well though it's nearly impossible to predict any kind of radiation patterns. When I have done this, nobody has ever noticed the antennas unless they were pointed out.

By the way--the "available metal" approach for grounding is not a good ground system for lightning protection. Buy yourself a knife switch and disconnect the antenna when the weather is bad.

Good luck!

I appreciate all the comments and ideas. They are all a bit above my pay grade however. But, I can learn. I am thinking of getting this 80 piece Particle Maker Kit from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HZFS0PE?aaxitk=pneNT3rT3XhgMcS0LMxLmw&pd_rd_i=B01HZFS0PE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=5582544217303223519&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=esp8266&hsa_cr_id=7664064650501#feature-bullets-btf

to get started learning about building IoT devices. It doesn’t say in the description that it is an ESP8266, but when I search that term, this comes up. I’m not sure if this will meet my original objective, but it sounds like fun. Any opinions or experiences with Particle?

As far as my original post - I failed to mention the track I was on that I thought was going to get me where I was going. I took a standard outdoor motion spot and covered the photocell so it always thought it was dark. I disconnected the parallel connection of motion sensor from the light. I was going to hook the motion detector in series to 1 channel on a 2 channel Sonoff, with that channel set to ON on power up with no output. When the motion detector closed the circuit and restored power to the Sonoff, I hoped that would trigger an IFTTT applet with the trigger ‘When Sonoff Channel 1 turns on’ and action ‘Send Notification’. Then connect the second channel to the light, power up state OFF on power up, and with a combination of IFTTT and Stringify, turn the light on only ‘if nighttime’ and off after 10 minute timer. As you can tell, I don’t want the light going on during the day. It’s a long story..

I really thought I had it figured out, but the Sonoff doesn’t seem to send a signal of Turned On after power up. All I really need is an IFTTT compatible device, (in place of Channel 1 on the Sonoff), that could trigger IFTTT on power up. Then I would have exactly what I want with a PIR that is meant to be outdoor. The only other possible flaw in that plan is the potential for false positives, etc. during daylight with a PIR that is designed for use in the dark. (As mentioned by @idetectanerd.)

Long post, and not sure if I explained it well. Thanks again for your input.

> (0 -> bridge pickup, 5 -> both, 10 -> neck)
Sounds like what you want is "modern" wiring. You can get those sounds with just the volume knobs, when the switch is in the middle position. And I agree with Boiller: get a SwitchCraft toggle switch. They're $16 on Amazon with free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Switchcraft-Short-Straight-Toggle-Switch/dp/B002MVIN3Q

The top customer review says: "Replaced my faulty epihone switch, as soon as you use this you can feel the quality, wish Id done it sooner. Soldered it in myself pretty easy by google for wiring diagrams of my current guitar." lol

And since you'd be soldering that new switch, you might as well implement the modern wiring at the same time. It'd be worth theo trouble because then your guitar will do exactly what you want it to do. Here's a video about it that shows that it's not all that difficult:

Everything but the tact buttons is simple. You just buy the parts and plop them in.

The tact button requires a bit more and is the only mod you can mess up. I recommend using a controller with some life on it so you don't worry about scratching it up or w/e. You will appreciate that when your hands are shaking soldering it.


Here is the best tutorial I was able to find and the one I used. I am a visual learner. I was a beginner and my mod came out pretty near perfect. I did have to redo my solder points after getting some practice. Also, I should have cut larger holes for my tact buttons from the beginning, it would have saved me doing more shaving to make the button work correct after it was all put together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1TwxXyu_xU

Note that during the video he is using a slightly older board but the idea is exactly the same.

If you want to add buttons I highly highly suggest a remap board shown in the video above found here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLAYSTATION-4-PS4-DualShock4-DS4-Remap-Board-Install-Hard-Remap-Buttons-Like-XO-/301481981148

That board allows you to add buttons without messing up your actual motherboard and you can use the buttons on the front still.


Also, practice with a soldering gun first, which brings me to the list of stuff you need:

soldering gun

hot glue gun

small screw drivers

exacto knife

buttons

button covers


Almost forgot, get tactile buttons with covers from amazon, but these specific ones work in all 4 directions which means you have to cut enough of your controller out to make them push down in all directions (aka better on the flat or farther down the controller so it doesnt hit the sharp edge)

http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Momentary-Tactile-Button-12x12x12mm/dp/B008DGAEEA/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1451522482&sr=1-1&keywords=uxcell+10pcs+Momentary+Tact+Tactile+Push+Button+Switch+12x12x12mm+4+Pin+w+Cap

I've been using a look to know for a while, but as my health has declined it's gotten a bit difficult to keep up-- plus my looms never made a tight enough knit for my tastes.

So I did some research and found a good, entry level circular knitting machine that wasn't too expensive and I love it! Now I can make a good length scarf in only 3hrs.

I had an idea about making it electric-- lots of folks have set up a power drill and use it for turning the crank. Since it's not the more expensive Addi Express, unfortunately there aren't really custom attachments, so instead I'm using Sugru to attach a spare drill bit I found.

Then I want to hook it up with a foot pedal, and maybe I can work on 3-4 at once!

I also use a row counter, but I think I need a stronger magnet for it to not miss rows.

Product links:

D&D Professional 40 Needles Knitting Machine Weaving Loom Kit includes Yarn Needles Accessories for Adults/ Kids https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YSTN8Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x6SCCbCC2S4MV

Electronic Counter, DROK LCD Digital Tally Counter 0-99999 Forward People Door Counter Panel 5 Digits Shockproof Retail Traffic Punch Tester Totalizer Gauge Magnetic Induction Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153409CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j.SCCb8XKJDEW

DCT Foot Operated Pedal Controller On/Off Power Supply Switch 115V 15A 2 Step Control Style Woodworking Machine Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MH2NCT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C.SCCbVJS6QYY

BLACK+DECKER DR260C 5.5 Amp 3/8'' Drill/Driver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T.SCCbPP035AX

Sugru Moldable Glue - Original Formula - White 8-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WW8KIQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9.SCCbGCDH137

More pics: https://imgur.com/a/aR4rXKk

One day my friend's pen broke and we decided to take it apart. Once seeing the electronics, I thought I could do better. This mod has three settings 5v, 5.5v, and 6v. The five is good for most carts but for carts with a resistance of 2 ohms plus you can step it up a little. This mod has a maximum power rating of 60w. If this gets enough interest I'll post the stl files for the print. Right now you have to charge it off of a lipo charger but Il probably at a usb charger inside when I get a chance. I would really only recommend this project for someone with a decent amount of electronics experience since you are soldering directly to the battery cells.   Here are the parts I used:

510 connector- https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Lot-EVOD1-Vape1Pen-1100mAh-Battery-MT3-Tank-W-USB-e-Atomizer1-USA/323685572877?hash=item4b5d29e10d:m:mKJW4oFY8IqPaDUXjzsNH6w:sc:USPSFirstClass!07079!US!-1:rk:7:pf:0

voltage regulator-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CHGWRM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

led button- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KPM0S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1   18650

battery- https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-18650-Samsung-25R-2500mAh-35A-Rechargeable-Battery-for-Vape-Mods-Free-Case/111840099041?hash=item1a0a307ae1:g:fLUAAOSwZKlcG95I:sc:USPSFirstClass!07079!US!-1:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true

xt30 connectors- https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Upgrade-Female-Connectors-Battery/dp/B074S7NH3H/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=xt30&qid=1550341561&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1   servo connectors- https://www.amazon.com/DIYmall-10PCS-

Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B016RJ8S42/ref=sr_1_16?crid=2496NE6TU30PG&keywords=servo+connector&qid=1550341588&s=gateway&sprefix=servo+con%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-16

Just checked and it will fit in a standard shell, but you will have to dremel out one of the trigger cover screw posts and a good amount of the shell underneath. You also have to dremel down the switch itself a bit. and on both Hori's and GC's you will have to delete the vibration motor and dremel down the vibe motor mounting bracket. I'll make a full guide soon if I have enough interest.


The switches I use are "Blee" microswitches. They are pretty big and you can find smaller ones, but they have an incredible feeling click that smaller ones won't match.

After seeing what /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 built the other day, I wanted to give it a go as well! I took most of the parts he used and linked in his thread, but I went with a few more switches as well as a set of POV buttons that have a mode switch to switch them from POV directions to an X-Y axis. The Green button is for the POV mode, and I also moved the Mode LED to the face of the box so you can tell what mode it is in.

I also added some vinyl carbon fiber wrap to give it a nice finish!

Parts links which are the same as /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 for the most part:

Button box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRIO

Control board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK

Push buttons: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T45I7GQ

Toggle switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154JY8OA

Carbon Fiber Vinyl Film: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059XCVVO

The LED is a 5mm Green 18mcd with a holder I had around, but any LED would work, just don't go super bright!

Original inspiration here: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/acn7il/scrutes_cheap_dcs_button_box_diy/?st=JQIL5FJK&sh=c37d0a0a

I have old (like 50s/60's old) craftsman bandsaw and table saw that someone had rigged light switches on for power at some point, I replaced them with these paddle switches and I love them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17HYY/

They are kind of bulky so you need a place to put a surface mount electrical box, but other than that they're a pretty simple install using basic crimp-on spade connectors.

Also since you'd put the switch in-line with the cord you could put a longer power cord on it while you're at it, if you're already dealing with a short cord.

When I get home tonight I can snap a couple pics of how I have them installed if it would help.

Not the person you replied to, but I will try to help.

Electrical switches are relatively simple devices but because there are so many styles of switches available, what you are asking for is really not that simple.

The first question is: What style of switch do you want? Toggle, momentary toggle, push button, momentary push button, rotary, magnetic, rocker? There are literally hundreds of thousands of different switches available.

The next question is how will you be making the connection? Solder, crimp, barrel connector, dupont, molex, scotchlok, screw terminal?

And finally, how and where will you mount the switch? Inline on the wiring harness? Do you need to drill a mounting hole? Are you looking for something that comes with mounting hardware? Is there clearance for your switch location?

I know this is all new to you and I am throwing out a bunch of terms you may have never even heard before. The simple solution for you, at least at first, might be to wire your LED strip right into the output screw terminals of your power supply. Then when the printer is on your light is on, and the light is off when the printer is off. Just be sure to mind the polarity (red to +, black to -) and wire into the 24v dc output side and not the 120v ac input side of the terminal block.

If it helps, here is a short list of switches I have purchased for different projects (all of these require soldering and some kind of mounting hole or hardware):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUXW18S
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1GY0
https://smile.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0
https://smile.amazon.com/Magic-shell-5-Pack-Rocker-Position/dp/B07D285PLL
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ICKO30

That's gorgeous. Great work.

My only thought is it's absolutely perfect if you add a safety power switch. A very small detail, but might make a big difference. https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY

Thanks for the approval, mod bot. These switches are bog standard, here's an amazon link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GM7JQP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's a schematic diagram on this picture on the Amazon link: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41hJy3AQHwL.jpg

Leg sizes are in the title.

I’m pretty sure my microswitch was 15 amp
Here’s what I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-XV-152-1C25-Hinge-Miniature-Switch/dp/B00W1VK9VG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=15+amp+micro+switch+with+lever&qid=1563079886&s=gateway&sprefix=15+amp+micro&sr=8-1

Edit: lol just read 15 amp on the link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GM7JQP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are same ones as the stock but the switch are a bit low and have to be pulled up. Once hooked up the buttons are great and feel like the arcade and not stiff.

Well there is no way to switch 'on' a raspberry pi without additional circuitry

However you could connect to the GPIO pins with something like this. You can connect to the 3.3V pin and connect to a GPIO pin for the switch and monitor it for shutdown event.


Good luck.

More info @ https://imgur.com/gallery/CG9w4

Everything you need

Sourcing parts is one of the most challenging aspects of these builds. It's a chicken and egg situation in which the parts are defining the design and dimensions and at the same time the design is attempting to define the parts you should look for.

Just as one example, I sifted through tons of portable powerbanks online. The reason I selected the one I used was because:

1. It has a power button so I could switch it off
   
2. The power button was located on a side that would make it accessible in the design I was thinking of
   
3. It wasn't too large, thick or expensive
   
4. It had two USB ports which was needed to provided separate power to the pis and the servo
   
5. It could output 2A on one of the USB ports which was necessary to power the pis
   
   Similar back and forth's happened for every part that was purchased. I've listed all the parts and split them into those required for the camera and those needed for the cartridge
   
   
6. Camera:
   
   Raspberry Pi 3 x 1
   
   Raspberry Pi Cam v2 x 1
   8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1
   
   M3 hex nuts - McMaster Carr 90695A033
   
   M3 screws 16 mm - Mcmaster Carr 95258A126
   
   Iphone Lens x0 . 67
   
   Male/Female Header Pins
   
   Resistors 10k x 2 + 220 O x 2
   
   Jumper Wires
   
   LED Buttons x 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GIKDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Adafruit 2 . 8" PiTFT x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/2298
   Pogo Pins https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LTKMG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Clear Red 3mm LEDs x 3 https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-Lighting-Electronics-Components-Emitting/dp/B01AUI4VX8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503997638&sr=8-2&keywords=3mm+clear+led+red
   
   PowerBank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H85P0EK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Resistors - 2 x 10k & 2 x 100k
   
   TowerPro MG92B Servo x 1 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/182310479953?chn=ps&dispItem=1
   
   Neodynium Magnets 6X2 mm (8 pieces) https://www.apexmagnets.com/6mm-x-2mm-disc-neodymium-rare-earth-magnet
   
   If you aren't making your own USB cables:
   Micro USB Breakout x 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLDPZVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Micro USB Cables x 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8GU03A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
7. Gif Cartridge:
   
   Raspberry Pi Zero W x 1
   8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1
   
   Resistors 10k x 1 + 100k x 1
   
   Momentary Switch x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/367
   
   Adafruit 2 . 8" PiTFT x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/2298
   3 . 7 v LiPo 400mAH Battery x 1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZU9C2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Adafruit
   
   Power Boost 1000C x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/2465
   
   Tools you may need:
   
   Soldering Iron
   Desoldering Gun/Solder Sucker
   Screwdriver set
   Crimping tool
   Pliers
   Exacto Knives
   Sand Paper(400-1200 grit)
   Tweezers
   Acrylic Spray Paints (Black and White) Krylon or Montana Gold
   Github Repo for the code: https://github.com/shekit/instagif
   
   Github Repo for the eagle files, STL files: https://github.com/shekit/instagif-hardware
   

Search for pretty much any kind of switch on Amazon or google. Lots of them will say "DC 12V 20A Automotive/Marine Switch," etc. The ones that don't say AC or DC almost always list a voltage that's common for one or the other (12v, 24v, 125v, 250v). Typical marketing nonsense. Just like how 16 "gauge" wire isn't the same as 16AWG, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-123-Electrical-OFF-Mom/dp/B0012ZE8IC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=rocker+toggle+switch&qid=1571794115&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1MzJVN1hNVEI1NU0mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNzI2NjQyRzRNWUdVNEczU1BJJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyODI0NzExTDE4MVJBRk0yQVNMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/warranty-Latching-Stainless-Mounting-Self-locking/dp/B07932GYNH/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=dc+12v+switch&qid=1571794073&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOFI0SDNVR1FKTUhLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTc5MDk1M1NKOEhQUjJEMjhCOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjQ4Mjc3TFRSNVRBOVpGTllMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1SJOGUL3HGSAD&keywords=rocker+toggle+switch&qid=1571794160&s=industrial&sprefix=rocker+toggle+%2Cindustrial%2C197&sr=1-6

Unfortunately, I didn't take many pictures while doing it, but here are the parts I used:

Switch


USB Cord

Conveniently the battery door has a spot that normally holds the connecting plate for the batteries that once removed fits the tabs on the switch almost perfectly. I did have to trim them a tiny bit, however.

Other than that I just wired up the switch to the remaining battery connectors. There is plenty of space for wires in the now empty battery area.

It's pretty straight forward. Here are the parts I'm using:

1. I bought this ATX plug so I didn't have to splice my power supply.
   
2. Using this PWM controller
   
3. Using these female banana plugs
   
   Those are the things I bought specifically for this project. The things I already had that helped are:
   
   
4. I really like this flexible silicone wire.
   
5. I use these USB connectors for various projects. Their pinout is .1" (2.54mm) and it comes with all kinds. Works well for slimming down a raspberry pi.
   
6. I used one of these prototype boards to solder the usb receptacles and the LED to.
   
7. I'm using a pink LED from this pack of assorted LEDs along either a 100ohm or 220ohm resistor, I can't remember.
   
8. I use one of these DPDT switches to switch between power on w/ PWM and power on w/ power to the solder fume extractor.
   
9. I used a JST connector from this JST kit to put a male header on the side so I can plug in accessories like the solder fume extractor.
   
10. Lastly, the front panel is bolted on with some M3 screws from this assortment.
    
11. The case was modeled in Rhino 5 and printed in a CR-10 using Silver eSun PLA+
    
    This post has made me realize I have way to much electronics stuff just lying around...

hey man, about to build my first heater tomorrow, I have a list of parts I ordered based on several threads and stuff you and others recommend I came up with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060U92FS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NCKQFW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G00GHQY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNSO3OM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


aside from wires, a box and tools (Ill get tomorrow from work)

am I set or do I need anything else, also if any of those things I bought incomatible?

I'm actually currently in the process of making power switches for all of my Pis right now! This is what I created. It just plugs into pins 5 and 6. I use RecalBox and have to edit a piece of coding in the config file. I saw online that you are able to do it via RetroPi as well. I went to my local electronic supply store to buy the buttons, wire, and wire connectors.

Here are the supplies I got:

Buttons

Jumper Connector Housing

Female Jumper Wire connectors

Rolls of wire (I got a roll of red and a roll of black)

The way it works, I have to hold the button down for about 3 seconds for the Pi to power off. To turn it back on, I just have to press the button once.

Thanks! Going with a basic switch with light and using the howchoo guide linked above.

Ulincos Momentary Pushbutton Switch U16B1 1NO Silver Stainless Steel Shell with Blue LED Ring Suitable for 16mm 5/8" Mounting Hole (Blue)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G00GHQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wp7DzbZCH778V

Fingers crossed.

Here... right plunger height for like 75% of synths

https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Tact-Button-Switch-6x6x5mm/dp/B00W0YUV1W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540867464&sr=8-5&keywords=tact+switch

Well by standard I mean this specifically, I got a couple spares.

Omall(TM) XV-152-1C25 Hinge Lever Type Miniature Micro Switch(Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W1VK9VG/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_1PSHyb5YWQSH0

You're looking for a normally open momentary push button switch.

If the circuit is fairly low power you can buy small ones like these in bulk from Amazon for like 6 cents apiece.

Forgive me if these are obvious suggestions but you can also check out digikey, mouser, banggood and sparkfun.

Would these work?

momentary switch $8.79 (for 25, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/

induction heater $12.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/

project case: $12.98

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107WU67M/

mosfet: $7.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J78FX9S/

power plugs $9.99 (you need only 1 pair)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YP4CP6/

test tubes $6.02 (cut in half, you'll break a couple until you get one you like)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKMWZOA/

on/off switch $6.50 (for 15, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2U8PK0/

​

in addition, you'll need some 18-20ga wire & solder, and a 12v/6a to 10a power supply

you could try this for the power.

I got this switch for my saw. It's the same manufacturer that grizzly puts on their equipment.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417293379&sr=8-3&keywords=woodstock+switch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MH2NCT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076MH2NCT&pd_rd_wg=2S8FD&pd_rd_r=YEYRFK83M6GE6B7H7PDD&pd_rd_w=tytQl
on/off switch foot switch

Full parts list with links to each product:

Camera:

$36 - Raspberry Pi 3

$30 - Raspberry Pi Cam v2

$9 - 8GB SD card (class 4 or higher)

$3 - M3 hex nuts

$8 - M3 screws 16 mm

Iphone Lens x0.67

$20 - Male/Female Header Pins

$12 - Resistors 10k x 2 + 220 O x 2

$7 - Jumper Wires

$7 - LED Buttons x 2

$35 - Adafruit 2.8" PiTFT x 1

$8 - Pogo Pins

$7 - Clear Red 3mm LEDs x 3

$20 - PowerBank

$6 - Resistors - 2x 10k (included in price before) & 2x 100k

$30 - TowerPro MG92B Servo x 1

$8 - Neodynium Magnets 6X2 mm (8 pieces)

$10 - Micro USB Breakout x 2

$7 - Micro USB Cables x 2

Gif Cartridge:

$26 - Raspberry Pi Zero W x 1

$9 - 8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1

Resistors 10k x 1 + 100k x 1 (included in price from camera parts multi pack)

$3 - Momentary Switch x 1

$35 - Adafruit 2.8" PiTFT x 1

$13 - 3.7 v LiPo 400mAH Battery x 1

$20 - Power Boost 1000C x 1

Tools you may need:

Soldering Iron, Desoldering Gun/Solder Sucker, Screwdriver set, Crimping tool, Pliers, Exacto Knives, Sand Paper(400-1200 grit), Tweezers, Acrylic Spray Paints (Black and White) Krylon or Montana Gold
Github Repo for the code: https://github.com/shekit/instagif

Github Repo for the eagle files, STL files: https://github.com/shekit/instagif-hardware

Total Cost: $369

+ iPhone Lens which varies greatly

No problem. Most limit switches won't specify if they're normally open or closed, but if they have 3 contacts then 99% of the time you can configure them to be either. For example, these have both a normally open and a normally closed contact. However I wouldn't go for those ones specifically though because they're only 5A, I'd look for something closer to 10A.

I'd hate to have a saw start spinning if I leaned over the table and hit the pedal accidentally, or at any point really.

I use a paddle switch like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4151-220-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17FRS

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY

With leads or sockets made for removable tools:

https://www.amazon.com/Router-Safety-Paddle-Switch-Removable/dp/B01B1KE4EK/

http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch

http://www.woodpeck.com/elecswitch.html

https://www.amazon.com/ROUTER-TABLE-PADDLE-PEACHTREE-WOODWORKING/dp/B00153I3IC