Reddit mentions: The best thread repair kits

I do have good access to both holes with the rocker cover on. The kit https://www.amazon.com/XT-AUTO-Stainless-Compatible-Repairing/dp/B07KM1RQWP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=XT+AUTO+6x1.0+helicoil&qid=1563043221&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Comes with a tap and by the looks of it it's a plug tap with about three or four tapered threads. I have a box of random tapered taps in my house somewhere but I know I definitely don't have a bottoming tap. The whole is a blind hole, or it does not go through the deep end but at the same time I don't know if at 8 foot pounds I need to be extremely worried about getting those last couple threads but for the price of a tap and considering how annoying the repair is I probably should just buy the bottoming tap

I'm in Southern California though I do sincerely appreciate the offer to help me out

Thank you again for the help, this community is truly the greatest

If you get 2 to 3 full turns (360 degrees * 2 to 3) before you hit resistance, you probably didn't crossthread them, you probably hit some crud in the threads.

http://amzn.com/B0009OMYCO is a handy tool to clean up the spark plug threads before you thread the plug in, but you have to be very careful not to cross thread that tool. Also, have the end covered in grease when you use it, to capture all the crud that you get out of the threads. The best way to use it is to turn it backwards (lefty loosey) until it clicks straight, then start turning it in. That works for both the spark plugs and the thread chaser.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-640811-Back-Tap-Thread-Repair/dp/B0014FGVVW

Expanding tap. You grease the shit out of it, put it in, expand it into the existing threads then back the whole thing out of the hole. It cuts (more like un-distorts) the messed up threads on the way out and any chips come back out with the tap. I'm not endorsing that particular brand or model, it's just for reference. Make sure you do a really good job of getting it seated in good threads or you'll be doing a heli-coil.

As others have said, replace the copper washer and see if that helps. I would not recommend going to a bigger size; the drain bolt area on CRF crankcases isn't giant, and going much bigger to an M10 will be pushing it.

Instead, get a helicoil repair kit, a new washer, and a new bolt.

Copper washer part # 90474-333-000
Drain bolt part # 96300-08025-00 (for 04-09, later years are different)
Cheap repair kit, but probably overkill for a single hole, and I'm not sure of the thread type of the drain bolt: https://www.amazon.com/Tek-Motion-Stripped-Rethread-Helicoil/dp/B018LMAXFU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3ADEYE2MJQNFTSSY1E3

Best of luck.

That hole thread is M3x0.5mm you can probably buy a tap from a local store, amazon, or ebay, for very little money. I use a standard cordless drill to retap threads all the time.

Here is a link to the correct tap on amazon.com:

https://www.amazon.com/CoCocina-Industrial-Metric-Taper-Thread/dp/B07NL5NRR7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=M3x0.5%2Btap&qid=1555207261&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

If its too badly stripped then you can use a 'heli coil' to put new steel threads into the hole. A machine shop can do this but will be very expensive unless they do I out of the kindness of their heart.

Here is a link to the correct heli coil set on amazon.com:
https://www.amazon.com/Helical-Thread-Repair-Kit-M3x0-5/dp/B007IBSG0U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=m3x0.5+helicoil&qid=1555207351&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I did this on my Bandit 1250. I didn't pull the oil pan (4-5 hours of work to do so: have to remove radiator, full exhaust, lot of other pieces). I rented a Time Sert kit in M14x1.25 (Bandit's drain plug size) for $25 + refundable deposit + cost of sleeves (I bought 2). Time Sert may be really expensive, but it is a REALLY REALLY REALLY good tool. I fixed my drain plug in about 15 minutes. Drilled out the hole, rethreaded it per instructions, ran a gallon of rotella through it, put red locktite on the insert, and it has been solid through 2 oil changes so far. I was beyond impressed with Time Sert.

Not sure if they offer an M12x1.5 (KLR) size, but worth a look. on Amazon it's $95, but I would called them and ask if they have an M12x1.5 kit available. aircooled.net link

Alternatively, there are Helicoil and Perma-Coil thread repair kits.

3rd option is to drill it out to a size larger and tap it out, get a new drain plug. Either to M13 x 1.5 or M14 x 1.5. Found this kit on Amazon, you'll have to source your own drill bit, naturally.

Call Eagle Mike, see if he has any repair kits or recommendations.

Check with a local auto shop if they have a time sert in m12 x 1.5 kit and if they'd let you use it. You'll need to get your own sleeve inserts. Autozone may have a rental for you.

Do the redneck thing, put a shitload of high temp silicone on the drain plug, sell the bike to some poor sap. No, don't do that.

Check to see if this vehicle has had Heli-coils or Timeserts installed due to plug blowout. Heli-coils are a good stop-gap fix to get you moving again. Timeserts are a more expensive, but more permanent solution. If it has never had a plug blow-out I'd highly recommend investing in one of these kits and keep a tube of grease and red thread-locker in your vehicle. Even if you lose a plug you'll be able to be on your way again in about an hour once the engine cools (30 minutes to install the insert, 30 to give the loctite a chance to set). The only other tools you'll need are a ratchet set with 6" extension, spark plug socket, and hammer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SGZ93D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SREP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Did this to mine last month, worked great. Don't forget red loctite on the helicoils

Edit: and a 21/64" drill bit to clean out the old threads

Shoutout to /u/MetaKLR for telling me about this

Time-Serts

Cylinder head kit you should be able to get from a parts vendor like FCP or Bavarian Autosport, but you don’t save much over piecing it together yourself, and that way you can choose the brand of each part. Avoid Victor Reinz HG’s - I did an M52 (non-tu) with a buddy of mine in his 97 528 and the VR gasket we pulled out had totally corroded out.

As far as thickness, there are a few threads that discuss using the standard gasket even after a head has been skimmed. Can result in a slight compression boost and power bump, but whether or not you should do it seems largely to depend on availability of premium fuel. I decided not to take any chances and used the thicker gasket.

I just ordered this Heli-Coil thread repair kit. It seems like a good option to keep the stock bolts all 6mm:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKPXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has really good reviews too!

A helicoil is a coil of "wire" that can get threaded into a larger diameter hole, which will then become the threads for a smaller diameter bolt or stud. Here's a kit so you can get an idea of what you'll need:
Amazon Helicoil

That would definitely be your best route, especially since you have all the tools you'll need. Keep in mind that link was just an example. You will need to find the correct size and thread count for your application.

Happened to me about 2 years ago. This was how Boosted responded when I asked if it was something I could fix myself. Still works great since then.

"sorry about the striped motor mounts. We have that happen occasionally here and that can be fixed with a 8-32 helicoil kit and a tap handle. I found an example of each to reference on amazon. 


http://www.amazon.com/PowerCoil-8-32-Thread-Repair-Insert/dp/B007N6T9OC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1410384012&sr=8-6&keywords=helicoil+8-32


http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21916-T-Handle-through/dp/B0002YUVSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410384083&sr=8-1&keywords=tap+handle

"

This is sadly pretty common for 1998-2006 BMWs. Always use a torque wrench and a fresh crush washer. Just one Jiffy Lube visit can necessitate a new drain pan or a fix. There are numerous fixes available though:

This is the legit fix: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SER3PA/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

I went with this self-tap oversized plug to fix my busted threads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you use the cheap oversized method, make sure to actually tap the hole with the plug -- few turns in, back it out, clean, etc.

I'm assuming you have the 1.9l engine? We install the repair inserts on those where I work for $100. It takes the same insert the 5.4l triton engines do that always blow out spark plugs. They are easy to do so i'm sure if you call around to local shops you can find a place willing to do it. Dephaze is right you should check the other plugs to make sure they are tight. I would probably just replace them all while you are at it.

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Save-A-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O/

If you want to try it yourself this is a simpler version of the kit I use. It locks the insert in very well. I have yet to have one come back. You can either pack the flutes of the tap with grease to keep the aluminum shavings from going into the cylinder or you can just fire up the engine for a few seconds after you tap the hole to blow the shavings out.

even that...

Dude, i'm talking like $20. What's that, like $26.22AUD?
https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK

Amazon in Australia sucks... Here's a eBay link:
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xhelicoil.TRS0&_nkw=helicoil&_sacat=0

Really though, i'd just thru-bolt it. you're not going to be able to tap it bigger because the slide in the brake that the bolt goes though wont be bigger... so a bigger bolt wont fit.

you can even see what i mean just by looking at the knuckle where the brake goes:
http://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/styles/product_large/public/product_images/26914.jpg?itok=W6VgZPRk

I don't think that bolt you're using is correct. The threads on the mounting clamp bolt are M10 x 1.5. It's hard to see but the threads in the base don't look too mangled so that bolt must just be smaller than 10mm.

I don't know how firmly that threaded insert is mounted in the base or how much metal is left to drill it out and tap it to the next bolt size. The cleanest repair procedure when you have to maintain the original thread size is to use a Helicoil. Essentially you drill the hole out larger and insert a Helicoil to bring it back down to the original size.

The correct kit is this one..... https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-10-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002SRF80

Well I said helicoil but got this assuming it’s an offbrand helicoil. All my nice tap tools are on the opposite coast. Those time sert kits are almost as much as me buying a roached carb just for the bowl

You should use a helicoil in order to keep the M5 size. If you buy a kit for m5 helicoils it will come with the drill bit, the tap, the helicoil, and a helicoil installation tool. You can use a steel or Stainless steel helicoil and it will be a much stronger connection than it was before.

Something like this

Amazon a little more affordable. www.amazon.com/dp/B001SOHXLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wfPDDbEG7FVRR

Thanks, never knew about this tool before.

Try Aero Kroil instead of PB Blaster, or try a 50/50 mixture of acetone and transmission fluid. A long, six-point box end wrench will work well to unscrew the sensor. Then use one of these to clean up the threads in the HO2S bung.

Another, perhaps better option than any of the above, is form-a-thread...I've never used it, and I'd never use it on any 'serious' bolt, but with the redundancy and very low torque spec of an oilpan bolt, it might be worth a try.

https://smile.amazon.com/Stripped-Thread-Repair-12-9mL-Gray/dp/B003THIZVW/ref=sr_1_1

Probably can get it or something like it cheaper locally.

I've done 2 plugs now with the following kit. It's easy to do, and never had any issues with them since. Take your time, follow directions, and don't rush it. They hold solid and I've never had another issue:

https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543236298&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=save+a+thread+spark+plug+repair+4.6

A time sert would be a more permanent solution, just be sure to use anti seize on the plug. When i was working auto parts i had to break it to a guy that the spark plug he had was fused to an off brand time sert.

Harley XL1200C uses an autolite 4164 which has a thread pitch of 12mm x 1.25


M12x1.25 time sert kit

If you can't see any leaks under the car, probably until the next oil change, but I'd get it fixed as soon as possible. You don't want the surprise of all your oil draining and engine blowing. If the threads are damaged and you can't fix them with a thread repair kit, I'd just get a new pan from a scrap yard, clean it in oil and replace the old one.


Should be pretty cheap if you do it yourself. Just make a step-by-step plan, have all the tools and a container to drain the oil which you can reuse.

This works just as well as a timsert and doesnt cost 2 arms and a leg https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O

However if OP is far form home he will be at the mercy of whatever shop he chooses or must pay the tow truck to take him home.

The plug hole should be repairable. They make spark plug specific heli-coil kits, with a reamer / tap that will cut a new thread for the heli-coil insert to fit into, then screw the heli-coil in and lock it in place, then put the plug into the heli-coil. Here's a link from Amazon for the kit. This kit is like what you want, but it's not the right thread, I'm still looking for the right one, which is an M10 thread.

You need a kit like this.

amazon.com/dp/B0002SRF4O

Its a simple repair.

sounds like you have a standard helicoil insert, you can get ones that are longer for cylinder heads.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFJCXVI/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

I had this happen on my RZR. I got the plug out my using my impact drill in reverse. It eventually caught and came right out. From there I went to replace the oil pan, but learned it couldn't be replaced without pulling the whole engine. I ended up using one of these kits. It wasn't cheap, but you're replacing aluminum threads with a steel insert, so it's a pretty solid permanent fix.

In your case I'd probably just replace the pan since you have access.

> This works just as well as a timsert and doesnt cost 2 arms and a leg https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O

What is meant in the description by

This are woodworking project kit ?

Spark plug thread chaser

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20200-Thread-Chaser/dp/B0009OMYCO/

Thats pretty good drilling. Very nice.

I would try 3 things.

Take a small sharp punch and hammer. Gently tap the part of the old bolt and unscrew it.

Continue drilling and rethread the hole using https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21669-16-inch-Drill/dp/B000BQW6F0/ but use the correct size for the stud you have. Seek out a "blind hole" or Bottom chamfer tap if possible. Same thing, different name. Start with the first one, finish with second one. If you notice the cutting part is almost to the end of the second one. That allows you to get to the bottom of the hole.

The last resort is https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK same thing, figure out the size you need first. These are just examples. your actual size is probably different.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFJCXVI/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

I'll save you the click, they want $445 for the kit. I can get a new engine block for $484.41

No mechanic will split the cases for a stripped drain plug. There is enough metal in those pans to get an oversized self tapping drain plug from autozone and thread it in.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/12mm-MAGNETIC-OIL-DRAIN-PLUG-BOLT-YAMAHA-OLDER-YZ125-YZ426F-WR426F-YZ85-TTR250-/151004145653

That is likely your drain plug, which means that you'll need the timesert:

http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Kit-Part-1215/dp/B001JK44D4

After you drill I would take an air hose with a long extension, insert it deep through the hole and start pumping in air. You can alternate between that and carb cleaner with the red straw. if you take it slow with the drill and re thread all the metal should be within an inch of the drain. As long as you insert the red tube or air nozzle beyond an inch deep it should blow the metal out, not in.

http://m.harborfreight.com/air-blow-gun-with-2-ft-extension-68257.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

After that I would fill the resevoir with oil, leave the bolt out, pull the spark plug, and crank it. That'll flow oil into the bottom of the case and out the drain, flushing out the remaining particles.

EDIT: make sure to stop cranking before you run out of oil. Should only take a few seconds of cranking.

If you don't want to spend the 100 bucks on the timesert,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002ESCY3W/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31SAT3CwMsL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C75_&refRID=0HK5JPGWZW877MTKEGKZ

There's a package of 5 self tapping drain plugs for 10 bucks.

Have you heard of this product? (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LMAXFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zj5QDbWCHA5JV)

https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505680583&sr=8-1&keywords=spark+plug+helicoil this is the one I use that's $200 cheaper.

I did that once. I had to buy a Time-Sert kit to repair it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRF4O

You've never heard of Helicoil? The thread repair kit?

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK

I didn't but it's recommended to do so. Make sure to get the short insert.

If you're worried, about the strength of the threads then you can use the strainer bolt instead of the drain plug for your oil changes


TIME-SERT M12 X 1.50 Metric Drain Plug Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SER3PA/


TIME-SERT Metric Steel Insert M12X1.5X6.7MM Part # 12157 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RQN042/

If you don't want to spend 170$, here's an alternative I've used in my Civic https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDBYXGU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
I bought this kit specifically designed for BMW aluminum blocks, we serted the other headbolts and they held torque just fine. It's just this one headbolt near the first cylinder that's giving us trouble.

I think a helicoil will solve my woes.

I used this kit to fix a stripped spark plug hole on an old trimmer. No real problems except the coil coming out with the plug the first time I removed it.

I would probably hit it hard with PB Blaster and/or ATF fluid and let them soak in overnight, then following day try the removal. Maybe an Impact gun on lowest setting (and also lower the air pressure to half as well to ensure not too much torque on them)

I have heard of people using a helicoil tap kit to redo the threads entirely. (This may not be the right size for you but concept: https://www.amazon.ca/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O)

When I was looking into a P71, there was lots of talk on the Net indicating that this can be a problem in both the 4.6L and 5.4. An earlier issue seemed to be the opposite of plugs getting ejected while running and taking the threads with them...

I would probably use a tiny bit of never-seize on the damn things when they get replaced, but just about everyone out there disagrees with me on that.

Having said all of above, all my current cars are iron heads, so I am not at all expert on Aluminum ones

Not to be an asshole but do you know what you're doing? How long have you been riding? an R1 is a hell of a bike for a new rider and that machine does not look like it's mechanically sound.

You say you got it on a trade for a couple hundred dollars?

First thing I see is that your radiator exhaust hose looks shot. Stator cover is obviously removed already; given that your threads do appear done for it may be possible to use Helicoil to go up a diameter and re-thread.

As far as removing the actual stator motor you'll need a pulley puller installer kit. That will give you the correct nut and you can rent them from an auto store. See this video for reference: https://youtu.be/3A5-g6OnYRI

Once the new stator is installed and new threads bored - even if you fail on a few of the threads you should still get a sufficient enough threading from a few of the bolts for the cover to stay on.

That said you need to seriously go over the rest of that bike. There's no telling what the previous guy did.