I'm copypasta'ing my answer to this question from a month ago. Good luck!

Just reno'd my home, and I LOVE MY SMART HOME. I'm using SmartThings in conjunction with Logitech's Harmony Hub, and it is working fantastically!!

A few other recommendations:

1. CAT6 EVERYWHERE. This is so important and worthwhile, that I'm writing it to echo everyone else's statements :) I had my contractor's wiring guy run unfinished, plain Cat6 everywhere, and will finish the ends myself, which saved a ton of money.
   
   
2. Get them to install your Smart Thermostat. I supplied mine (Ecobee 3) to my contractor and wanted them to install it. This is because when I asked them if my furnace had the C-wire, they said yes, so I could install it myself. I pushed them to install it for me, and it turned out that I didn't have the C-wire, so they had to do the extra wiring run to my furnace and get it installed. Massive bullet dodged, no way I could have done that myself after the walls were up. I love smart heating/cooling. I chose the Ecobee 3 because it is actually a hard-wired thermostat, so no need to ever change batteries :)
   
   
3. Smart dimmer switches for nice pendant/chandelier LED lights in kitchen and/or living room (or anywhere else). I bought a couple smart dimmable GE z-wave switches (I think it was this, or a similar model) and had the contractor install those too. This you can probably do yourself, but it's better if they do it for you while they're installing all the other wiring and regular switches anyway. The switches are wonderful, and can dim my beautiful kitchen pendant LEDs, as well as my beautiful chandelier LED. Thus, those lights didn't have to be smart, just the switch, which allowed me unlimited access to any light I want. Light shopping is a lot of fun, a lot of cool stuff out there. If using this switch, just make sure the lights you buy for them are dimmable, as some LED lights are not dimmable, and will tell you so in the specs.
   
   
4. Outlets at every window. For what? SMART AUTOMATED BLINDS. And with the outlets by the windows, then you can order the blinds that come with standard wired power, which is cheaper than the battery powered and solar powered ones. And c'mon, let's face it, no one wants to change the damn batteries, especially with the blinds going up and down at least one cycle per day, and solar power never seems to deliver enough juice. I ordered smart Bali Blinds through Costco that have the Somfi receiver built into them. You build your own package when you order (because you have to measure and specify lengths and widths for blinds), and when choosing accessories, you have to order the Somfi to Z-wave controller (Zrtsi is what they call it) with it. I LOVE these smart blinds.
   
   
5. Get them to install your Smart Door Locks. I'm using a Schlage Z-wave (or zigbee?) lock for this, and it is working great so far. But it was a pain in the ass to install apparently, or more specifically, to line up with the hole the door bolt lines up with in the door frame.
   
   
   HOME MODE:
   
   Now, I have my smart home programmed so that when I pull up onto the driveway and into the range of my wifi, the blinds automatically open, my LED lights come on, and the TV system turns on, programmed to my starting channel of course (which is usually sports, because baseball is on by the time I get home :D), and the door unlocks. It's...really amazing lol...I freaking love this setup.
   
   If I have gone out for the day and just remembered that I didn't check to see if I locked the door? I can just check the status of it from the SmartThings app. Unlocked? Click. Locked.
   
   VACATION MODE:
   
   When I was out of town last month, I programmed a couple SmartThings routines to open and close my blinds, and turn my lights and tv on and off, at different intervals on different days. I used different timings for different days, because why not? It's so easy and simple to set up in SmartThings, so why not make it just the slightest more realistic and difficult for burglars to figure out?
   
   All in all, I can't believe my smart home is actually functioning the way I hoped it would. I expected there to be more issues and problems, but nope, it's working exactly the way I wanted it to.
   
   
   When my garage is cleared out, I will be installing my wifi enabled Chamberlain garage door openers too, so that the garage door will open automatically for me as well :) If you can get them to install that too, that would save you a bunch of time, since that's a lengthy install and you usually need someone to help with it.
   
   GOOD LUCK!
   
   Optional:
   
6. Speaker wire in every room, like bathrooms. Or at least the rooms you'll want sound in (kitchen, bedrooms, living room, bathrooms....that's pretty much every room :D). I wish I had done this. I initially thought I would just use a bluetooth speaker wherever I wanted sound. But then Google released the Chromecast Audio, and you can get whole home sound now for CHEAP...if you have powered speakers everywhere. Plus, it's always good to have speaker wires wherever you're going to have a tv, because true surround sound will always be better than soundbars.
   
   BONUS EDIT:
   
   Writing this prompted me to check my stuff while here at work. I just opened the SmartThings app and noticed I left the blinds open! Click. Closed. :D
   
   DOUBLE BONUS EDIT:
   
   I can't wait for my Google Home and Amazon Echo Dots to arrive!!!!

A rifle: I personally suggest the Classic Army KM10, but the KM12, Delta 10/12, EC1/2, and ISSC MK22 are exactly the same internally. G&G Combat Machines, like a G&G CM18 are also very nice and popular starter guns.

Extra mags: My personal favorite are G&P High RPS. They're pretty tight in most guns but are well priced, look nice, and feed well. They fit well in Combat Machines, but I've never tested with Classic Army. Some others that fit in Combat Machines, and probably Classic Army, are Ares Ameobas and PTS EPMs. For mid-caps you'll need a speedloader. For high caps, it's not needed.

Battery: I'd suggest a 7.4v Lipo or 9.6v nimh. If you're going Lipo, buy from Hobbyking. They sell decent batteries for cheap. I'm not sure the exact dimensions of the stock each uses, but this 7.4v 2000mah 15-25c would probably fit in both and run them fine. It has a huge capacity so it'll last a while. For a charger, the Imax B6 will do everything you need it to (Charge, discharge, some other stuff) and the price isn't bad. I'd also suggest a Voltage checker for Lipos. The Classic Armys will come with a 9.6v nimh and a shitty charger. For those, just get a new smart charger. The G&Gs have a battery bundle that'll give you a 9.6v nimh and smart charger.

Head protection: For eyepro, I love Pyramex. Pyramex I-force are my personal favorite, and the V2G-XP are very good as well. They're also rebranded by Valken and are known as Valken Zulus and Sierras. The One Tigris mesh mask is by far the best lower face protection I've used. Hard cover where you need it (teeth, nose, lips) and still covers your cheeks. It's also very comfy and lets you get good cheek weld, so you can see down your sights easily. I also wear a hat and Howard Leight impact sports

Gloves: Hand shots hurt. A lot. Some nice gloves like Mechanix M-pacts are a god-send in game.

chest rig: If you want to carry extra mags, the Condor Rapid Assualt is a nice and cheap way to carry them. 6 M4 mag pouches and a lot of MOLLE to attach other pouches. It's also super adjustable and can fit almost every body type.

BBs: I almost exclusively use Elite Force .28g Bio. They're just the best BBs I've used and aren't crazy expensive. You'll have to find a weight that's best for you (Maybe buy a sample pack?) but .28s are generally best in stock guns.

Camo isn't that important, but I love my LBX Combat Uniform. The shirt uses a thin-ish material in the chest and back which is great if you're using a plate carrier or chest rig, while the arms, and pants, are made of a thick material that really takes away the sting of BBs, but still leaves enough that you can feel hits. I also like having an outfit specifically for airsoft. The pants also fit knee pad inserts. All that being said, jeans and a hoodie are perfectly fine.

> Price Range: UK, up to £50 - the only batteries I have and have experience with are disposables like AA and AAA but I am willing to learn about new types. I have charging cables like USB-C
>
> Battery Type & Quantity: Recommend me whatever you like battery wise

I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics
  
• HKJ Review of Charger Panasonic BQ-CC17 - lygte-info.dk
  
  > A nice -dv/dt termination with only a small temperature increase and no trickle charge, this looks very good. [...] The charger is very good at filling the batteries.
  
  You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer. They achieve maximum longevity when you charge any time before they reach 60% depth of discharge (40% remaining capacity). So, if you charge them when they're half discharged or sooner, that's easy to remember.
  
  > Purpose: Main purpose - used to find correct door numbers when I am delivering in evenings
  >
  > Other uses would be as an emergency lighting source in my flat in case of a powercut and to take along with me when I'm on a motorbike again for emergency usage. If I could use it randomly in countryside settings where there is not much light pollution that would be great as well
  >
  > Size: Something easily held in one hand, not to head heavy and not too heavy, needs to fit in a backpack easily
  >
  > Type: Handheld
  >
  > Main Use: Whilst in residential areas shining light to find the right door numbers - IMPORTANT must not disturb residents with too much excess light
  
  You said you want handheld, but if you're using it from a motorbike while delivering, then it really sounds like what you need is a hands-free headlamp, but one that can also be used handheld. I did a search for you:
  
  
• http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html?type=headlamp&battery=1xAA+2xAA+3xAA+4xAA+5xAA+6%2BAA&runtime=_+_+dec&features=regulation&price=_+62
  
  I'm not sure how to use the search features to minimize the amount of spill light, but maybe u/parametrek can explain how to do that. I see beam angle, intensity, and throw that might be useful in filtering for that kind of feature, but I'm not sure if it's actually possible to filter that way.
  
  In any case, the Zebralight headlamps can be used handheld without the headlamp holder, and they include a pocket clip for that purpose too. I recommend the Zebralight H53c because it uses AA batteries:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Zebralight H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI: Sports & Outdoors
  
• H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI - Zebralight
  
  The Armytek Tiara lights are similar, and imitate many of the features of Zebralights, so although I haven't used one myself, they get recommended often and they might be equally versatile as a handheld light - I just don't know if they come with a pocket clip. The quality of Armytek is good, but is praised less often than Zebralight. They might have some features that are different from Zebralight, in addition to a lower price, so they're worth considering.
  
  I almost always use my Zebralights without the headlamp strap, although I do use the silicone holder because it makes it easy to swivel and point the light. I put some zip ties on it for a lanyard so I can attach it to the exterior of my EDC bag, without risk of losing it. It's tiny, so it's convenient to always have it ready. I don't need to fish around in my bag or pocket to find it. I just tap the on-button, and go. I don't need to fumble with it or even bother to put it away when I'm done using it. I think in your job, that would be ideal for you too, because it will save you a ton of time, which adds up every time you use it.
  
  They do have some spill light, but you have fine control over the brightness, so you can dial it down to only the amount of light you need, and you can make the light on time very brief, even though the button isn't quite a momentary on switch, which would be ideal. The way you select brightness by clicking the button might be even more useful than a momentary on switch anyway, so you can minimize the amount of light you use to the point no one will notice you, even if they're nearby while you're shining your light.
  
  EDIT: Formatting.

I'm not sure if this is quite the right place to put this, but as someone who is very into fitness, health, etc, I want to put good information out there for people to see. Your statement about not losing weight possibly due to muscle gain reminded me of a pretty important idea:

Worry less about the scale and more about the mirror and your waist/hip measurements. The scale numbers matter, but not as much as you might think.

Here is an article on the average ideal waist:hip, waist:chest, and BMI for both men and women:
Ideal to real: What the perfect body really looks like


For the BMI, I'd recommend using this calculator, which BMI with an exponent of 2.5 instead of 2.0, making it better for people of significantly above or below average height:

New BMI Calculator

Here were the ideal numbers for women designed by men:

• BMI of 18.8
  
  
• Waist-to-hip ratio ratio of .73
  
  
• Waist-to-chest ratio of .69
  
  Obviously, you have less control over bust size than you might like, but handling your waist:hip ratio and trying to eat towards the ideal BMI is going to massively increase your sex appeal, mating options, and body satisfaction. The good news is, these are averages, and as long as you are reasonably close, you are going to be somebody's ideal.
  
  EDIT: Just to give a concrete example of this, I like narrower/flatter hips, a smaller chest, and a bit more muscle than most men. This will lead to a small overall size and low curves, but a somewhat higher BMI due to the higher muscle density. However, most women would be very well served by tailoring their fitness regimen to approach the above numbers over time.
  
  
  You can track both your weight and your measurements pretty cheaply. Here are a couple of products on Amazon that make it very easy:
  
  Body measurement tape, $5
  
  Digital scale, $23
  
  I own both of these products and I am very satisfied with them. I'd say measure yourself in the morning after relieving yourself for the most accurate & consistent results.
  
  Fitness and health are both easier and harder than people make them out to be. Often we pursue ideals that are a bit wrongheaded, and it is difficult to form good habits. However, once you pick the right goals, and you establish the good habits, it gets fairly easy and very rewarding. Happy self-improvement, folks!

Beyond the standard screwdrivers/metric allen wrenches/etc that you'd have for your job, there are a few things that are good to have on-hand. I'll give a bit of an overview of what I use regularly and consider pretty essential.

Calipers. When you want to make prints designed to real-life sizes (rather than just artistic models), calipers are almost essential. I've got some digital calipers that I got on amazon for $30-40 and I use them constantly.

Flush cutters. Little cutters like these are amazing for working with 3D printing. I use them to cut filament for a clean end to feed into the printer, to clean supports off of finished prints, cutting zip ties (which are sometimes used to hold 3D printer belts cleanly), little stuff like that. Get yourself a set for $5-10 and dedicate them to the printer; keep them reserved for soft-ish plastic to avoid killing the edge, use something else for cutting metal and thicker plastic.

Scraper. Many printers come with one, but you definitely want something like a fine-bladed putty knife or something similar. It's not uncommon to need to pry a bit to get a print off the print bed (depending on the bed surface), so having something to pry with is nice.

Thin tweezers. They don't have to be anything fancy, but tweezers are useful for grabbing little bits of plastic that came out wrong before they mess up the rest of the print or other little stuff like that.

There are a lot of other things which are useful to have on hand, but somewhat less essential. Here's some of what I have and use.

High-purity Isopropyl Alcohol and a clean cloth. I have a PEI print bed, which works great. I keep some 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle; every few prints I'll give the print bed a spray or two and wipe it down with a microfiber cloth. It does a great job of keeping the print bed clean and letting prints stick well (and PEI releases prints well once it cools down).

Scale. It's definitely not essential, but it's nice to have a small scale that can give weights in grams, since it'll let you know how much of your 1kg spool is remaining and lets you weigh things quick and easy.

Small flashlight. It doesn't need to be something fancy, but I keep a cheap little flashlight near my printer for when I need to look at some part or detail and it's in a weird spot or I don't want to turn on the big light.

Small blowtorch and/or heat gun. Great for making little stringy retraction issues shrivel up and go away, restoring the color of a section of print that turned white from removing supports (from plastic fatigue) and whatever else. I've got a little butane torch that works great for doing those sorts of things.

Dental mirror. Definitely not strictly necessary, but it can be handy for seeing up under your print head without spending a couple min moving it up to the top and bending your head at an awkward angle.

Sharpie marker. Being able to write on or label a print is handy. There'll be times when you're tuning the printer settings or something similar and want to make a note of what settings you used for that print that you're tweaking for other prints; Sharpies do the job well.

There are also a few consumables which are very handy to have on hand if you're making any kind of mechanical print or doing any printer mods.

Small machine screws, especially metric. I've got a couple boxes of M2-M5 machine screws and nuts in various lengths that I use for prints that need to be fixed together or for any printer mods that need to be mounted. A $10-20 assortment box on Amazon will last you a good while.

Zip ties, in an assortment of widths. They're just really useful for tying stuff together. You've probably got a bunch already laying around, but it's worth mentioning.

Superglue. It's great for gluing prints together; I keep some thin CA glue and also some gel CA glue on-hand for gluing prints together. Just don't get your fingers stuck.

I'm sure there's also other useful stuff that I'm forgetting that someone else will mention.

As to the humidity, it really depends on how humid your house actually gets. Given that you're in Florida, however, you probably want at least a bit of protection for your filament. I'd suggest getting some kind of airtight container and some rechargeable silica beads. Keep the filament in the dry container as much as possible and cook the water out of the beads as-needed and you should be fine without having to actively dry out the filament. Just keep an eye on it and tweak your setup if you're having issues due to wet filament.

I think you're going in too heavy with that paint set but it's up to you. I certainly have never bought a paint set. With the majority of kits you'll be making will probably use four or five paints per model when you start out, most of the time washes account for the most colour. Army painter make some really nice brushes/sets also paints, they are really good but half of those paints you may never use.

I research the kit I'm making, acquire the relevant paints, usually either vallejo, mig, ak or Tamiya. I have a real mix. This way I don't have any redundant paint, in the long run it's probably more expensive than just buying a set, but I can certainly say i've got no paint that i've never used.

For washes, I'd just get some oil paints, like winsor newton, some odourless turpentine. Once again, this is cheap, buy three or four colours and a pot of turps, a cheap brush a palette and you can make any colour you want. Some places like this do 4 for 3, the small tubes will last you years and years. There are some great videos on youtube for making washes with oil paints. I'd just get burnt umber, burnt sienna, maybe a green, blue, yellow and black.

You need a gloss clear coat, something like Mr Topcoat gloss is great, its acrylic so if you use enamel/oil paint washes over the top it won't ruin your base coat, and then finish the model with a matte or satin coat.

Take a step back, find a kit you want to make, see what paints you need. Get a brush set, get a can of spray primer, personally I'd use Tamiya's fine spray primer, it's cheap and really fine. Be very careful not to flood a model's detail though.

I'd go with a cheap pair of Xuron's, I started using them for my 3dprinter and now use them for modelling too, they're so cheap and sharp, the pair i've had now for well over a year and still work great. I use to treat cutters as expendable items but these seem to have stayed sharp the longest.

Either Tamiya thin or Mr's is fine, I use Tamiya as have done for years and never had any issues with it.

If you've saved some money with not buying a paint set then think about getting some decal setting solution like microscales set and sol.

I'd also recommend using companies like emodel, hannants, or a local hobbyshop. We have some great resources in the UK for scale modelling and often you'll find free shipping and cheaper stuff than on amazon at a lhs or an online reseller.

Edit, I should add, get a good hobby knife, Xacto or similar with replaceable blades. A set of fine needle files is useful as is either sanding foam, sanding sticks, sand paper of various grades.

hey OP, i'll try to answer a few questions for you if i can. i've got a handful of years of experience building custom cabinets, but am no doubt not the foremost on education in this field :)

working with wood is a lot different than working with steel, but it shares some common similarities, as i am sure you know already :)

in all simplicity there are 4 main components of a cabinet, i will use the following as reference in my reply:

a) the main cabinet or box.

b) the face frame

c) the back

d) any removable shelves/doors/etc



1) joinery

when building cabinets, etc i always start with the box

tools required: router, straight cut bit at T" or in this case 3/4", clamps, straight-edge, wood glue, compressor and brad nailer

most material used in cabinetry is usually 3/4" thick, so T=3/4"

once you have all your box material cut to size (there is an easier step you can do, i'll explain in a bit), you'll want to mark all side pieces at proper measurements of non-removable shelves at top of shelf - T. (this usually consist of a top and bottle, but in your multiple cases you'll have a few boxes with hard-fastened shelves in between)

the next step is cutting groves into your side panels for the non-removable shelves to set it.

set your free hand router up so it's cutting 1/2 the depth of T, in this case it will be 3/8". find out how far it is from the fence to the edge of your bit, practicing on a piece of scrap wouldn't hurt.

run the router along the fence cutting groves in each location.

you probably don't want the bottom of the cabinet to hit the floor, i always raise my bottoms so the bottom shelf is flush with the top of the face frame, so make sure to measure twice! :)

anyways once you've done this, you'll have a nice grove to fit your cross-shelves into

glue and nail accordingly.

as far as the intermediate up and down structures, such as the middle in http://i.imgur.com/TG9hwh.png?1, you don't require such groves.

ok moving right along, let's jump to face frame joining

tools required: miter saw, screw gun, pocket hole jig, wood glue, clamps

after you've got your box, you'll be ready to build your face frame

since you don't have a ton of money (who does?) to buy an expensive face frame joiner, Kreg has a nice pocket hole jig which i've used regularly for a while now. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W

cut and rip your face frame components to size, turn over and clamp the jig, drill your pocket holes.. once this is done for the outer-frame, clamp and screw them together using wood glue and some pocket hole screws, kreg provides a few in the kit to get started, and Lowe's will well the kit and the screws you'll need to complete your project.

once you've done the outer frame, move into the inner frame, etc and rinse & repeat.

it's best to do this on a flat level surface you can clamp the two pieces down so they won't move, but don't worry if you're a fraction off from being flush and sticking up a hair, you can fill that with putty and sand down to flush later.

once you've built your face frame and cabinet boxes, you're now ready to glue and nail them together.




2) what wood to use.

a) for cabinet boxes and shelves

if you're going to stain it, you can probably find a decent price on red oak at your local lumber yard, this should range from $40 to $50 a sheet, depending on area

if you're going to paint it or just don't care if you stain it and doesn't have to look fabulous, you can use a cheaper paint-grade Birch plywood, often available from $20 to $40 per sheet and location

b) face frame wood you can use some select grade pine (usually stains and works well even with red oak plywood, of if you find it cheap enough (improbable) some red oak which is usually really pricey)

3) structure

if you groove the main non-removable shelves like i suggested, you won't have a problem.

if this unit were being mounted to the wall you could add some extra "nailers" but that won't be necessary in your situation





i think i've gone over the basic questions you've asked so far. if i've missed something and if you have any questions on anything feel free to ask so i can elaborate more.

it's a really interesting project you have and i'm sure you'll have fun with it.

once again, feel free to reply to me and i will answer as best i can :)



EDIT: oops, i forgot to mention the backs :)

when you're routing the groves in for your shelves, you'll want to provide a grove for the back material as well.
this isn'tnecessary, but it will provide a clean look when viewing the finished piece from the side, as you won't see the 1/4" back material.

a simple 3/8" grove 3/16" deep the length of the sides will suffice

when you mount the back, you can use 1" or less brad nails or a pneumatic stapler if you have one available.

and mount the back BEFORE you mount the front face, frame, as mounting the back is a sure way to square up the unit

you'll mount 1 side first, then 1 bottom to square.

First things first, see if there are any fields nearby that have rentals. Go out and play with a rental before dropping $500, last thing you'd want to is spend that much money on a loadout only to find you don't like playing airsoft.

Now that being said, $500 is actually a very reasonable starting budget. I'm already going to assume that you have a good pair of boots, if you don't then you def are going to want to add that as something to purchase. So I have a basic loadout, it's going to be 3 different stores because airsoft retailers are an awful place to buy lipo batteries. A lot of these items I've either owned or know people personally who do.

So let's start off with the basics.

• The G&G CM16 SRXL - It's a step up from their basic Combat Machine lineup, but still sub $250. It has a basic MOSFET from the factory that can be programmed to shoot either full auto or 3 round burst when set to auto. One negative about the MOSFET is I've heard reports of it burning out on 11.1v lipos, so stick to 7.4v ones for now. It is going to shoot just below 400, which makes it perfect for field play. It is a keymod rail, but the one downside is it's "airsoft spec" keymod so keep that in mind when buying keymod accessories. Overall it's a great gun for the price and very much a good starting gun.
  
  
• ALTERNATIVE ICS PAR MK3 - This gun is on sale right now, down from $340 to $214, so if you can get it while it's this cheap then it's a steal. ICS guns are tanks and they are very easy to work on down the line due to their split gearbox design. My first gun was an ICS CXP-16 and it is still running for the dude who bought it from me to this very day. You may need to drop a new spring in, but again due to the split gearbox that's super easy.
  
  
• G&P High RPS midcaps - Great mags for a great price. The will handle damn near any ammo and any rounds per second you can throw at it. They are a bit tight in some guns, you might have to give your mag a bit of a love tap to get it to lock in, but at the same time that means there is very little mag wobble. 5 mags is more than enough for your basic open play. If you're wanting to go to longer events down the road, you can just buy another set of 5 and you're golden.
  
  
• G&P CompM4 Replica - I use this red dot on my shorter M4. It's got a great build quality, comes with a kill flash to keep your scope protected, and takes AA batteries. That last bit about taking AA batteries is my favorite part, I am awful about forgetting to turn off my red dot and it's nice to know that it takes a very common battery.
  
  
• LBX Lock and Load Chest Rig in Project Honor - The LBX Lock and Load chest rig is one of the most underrated chest rigs on the market. It can hold damn near anything you'd need for a day of playing. It's very easy to take off and put on thanks to the large zipper up front. It has plenty of padding in all the right places to keep you comfortable throughout the day. It's overall just a great value. The Project Honor camo one being only $25 is an absolute steal, I personally picked one of these up when I saw that price and it's well worth it. It may not be the prettiest camo out there, but you can't even come close to that quality in the $25 price range.
  
  
• Krytac .25g BBs 4000 count - Great BBs, never had any issues with them feeding. It's one of the 4 brands of BBs I will use in my rifles.
  
  
• 6mmProShop 500 round speedloader - A nice, basic speedloader. Better than the smaller pistol mag sized ones since you don't have to fill it up after every freaking magazine. I had one of these for a while, only reason I don't still use it is because someone stole it at an open play. A step up would be the Odin Sidewinder but that puts your budget over $500.
  
  All of this with the Free3Day coupon code puts you at $410.
  
  Now we get to protection gear (and a charger)
  
  
• Pyramex I-Force Dual Pane Goggles - Great pair of budget priced goggles. I personally use these on longer games or days when I just don't feel like running my larger goggles. For anyone that doubts the quality of these Valken rebrandes them for their Zulu goggles and charges almost twice as much.
  
  
• OneTigris mesh lower facemask - Better than the full mesh ones because the cloth on the sides conforms to your face better. There is still plenty of padding on the cloth sides to protect your face and it gives you a better cheek weld on the rifle. Only complaint I have is they do tend to get a little hot if it is very hot outside, but that's the tradeoff for protection.
  
  
• Tenergy lipo charger - Nice, basic lipo charger. You'll need this for the batteries I'm linking later. I use this charger personally, haven't had any issues with it yet.
  
  If you have Amazon Prime, that put's this portion to a total of $53. Overall we're at $463.
  
  Now for the batteries. I always suggest HobbyKing for purchasing lipos, they have by far the best prices on lipos. These 1200 mAh 2s nunchuck lipos should work great for your gun. Lipos are going to give you a better trigger response than NiMH batteries. I'd order two of these, which are about $13 total. Shipping will cost you about $9.
  
  Overall total: $485

Yeah, low income can be a bear... but since you don't seem to be allergic to work, there are possibilities, even for the "too young" to work. Traditional stuff like mowing neighborhood lawns, less-so like dog-walking... or whatever.

Definitely rent first. Getting in to play the game will help you to figure out what role(s) you want to play when you do start buying gear and allowing you to focus on gear that lets you, as well as helps you, do what you enjoy.

Budget for your rental trips. Locally for me, a day's airsoft as a minimum rental is about $60US. That's $30 field fee, and $30 rental (covering mask/goggle, AEG, battery, and a single hi-cap mag. Additional mags and a chest rig can be rented for an additional $15, but usually, that's unnecessary. BBs are extra, ~$22 for 2700 rounds, (I use .32s and .20s are going to be cheaper) but you can save the ones in the bottle you don't use and use them on subsequent trips. All told, you're looking at about $70 per person, per trip. Once a month is probably a good rate.

Start saving now for gear if you can, don't burn gear money on rental fees if you can help it. Every dollar invested in your starter gear is going to (usually) improve the performance and longevity, especially in a gun, which will probably (and should) be your greatest single startup expense.

There are low-cost options for basic gear.
A set of Pyramex I-force goggles and a One Tigris foldable mask (or similar) can be had (collectively) for less than $50.
Condor makes some (at least in my limited experience) cheap but reasonably good quality gear.

My current cheap gear setup (less than $100US here, without shipping):
Pyramex I-Force
NO B Tactical Folding Mask w/ Ear protection (really a One Tigris knockoff, but it works)
Condor Modular Chest Panel
Condor Triple M4 MOLLE mag pouch

This setup, over street clothes, is functional and cheap, and I have personally had no major issuses with it. Minor issues include some condensation with the goggles (more "why am I staring through a fishbowl" water than fogging really, and that after several hours of play), and the mask straps loosening on occasion.

Changes I would have made looking back:
- Color choices on the mask, panel, and pouch. The olive drab I went with on the panel and pouch didn't match the rest of my eventual gear setup (black), which started with the black mask. Didn't plan that well enough. I would stick with a color (probably olive drab for cheap or Multicam for more expensive) if I did it over again.
- Should have gone with a set of three single pouches, rather than the triple. The ~50% (or about $10) increase in price would have been worth the increase in loadout flexibility. I seldom find myself needing six spare mags.

High dollar things you are going to want to budget for (at least eventually) when you buy gear:
- Boots. Regular street shoes are ok, especially indoors, but you really want to have a set of high-quality boots to play in, especially outdoor fields with broken terrain and obstacles. The ankle support and all-around toughness of a good set of boots are going to be worth the expense. Add to that the ability to switch out of your boots for the ride/drive home is great, especially playing outdoor fields where you might get rained on or have to wade through a building ( >1 inch deep puddles inside buildings, ISYN), and you'll feel a lot more comfortable doing so if you know you won't have to wear wet footgear home.
- Defogging system. I bought an ExFog system recently and ran it the first time last weekend (same time as the rain and indoor puddles) and I'm over the moon. Cleared up the condensation issues with the goggles I was having completely. I can't recommend this enough. But at >$75, it is definitely in the "luxury" category, so buy it when you can afford it, but consider it as soon as you can.

Something you might be able to get cheap:
BDUs/Combat Uniform. Old military combat uniforms and such can be found occasionally at thrift stores or places like the Salvation Army. Actual military uniforms are going to hold up great (even if they're not in perfect condition when you get them) and they are already camo. Much cheaper than buying them new, or buying civilian equivalents.

Hey, you've got a lot of good stuff going on here. I'll do my best to outline some of the ways you could save a good amount of weight without breaking the bank.

• First off, your tent is really heavy especially if you're sleeping in it alone. Something like the SMD Lunar Solo or one of the many choices over at Tarptent could help you save ~32oz.
  
  
• A lot of people around here do not bring sleeping base layers. Just sleep in the clothes you hike in. That'll save you 13.5oz.
  
  
• Do you really think you need both shorts and pants? If you want that kind of versatility than convertibles might make sense but most will advocate for not bringing both.
  
  
• Obviously a lot of weight comes from the camera, and additional accessories. If you can live without extra lenses you could save ~20oz and get an RX100. Personal call there though.
  
  
• I don't know too much about resupply and recharge points on the JMT, but a 20000 battery AND a solar charger seems excessive. Solar doesn't get much love on this sub as it is heavy and fairly poor when it comes to charging things. You could drop it and save ~13oz.
  
  
• The headlamp is heavy, and personally I don't think they are overly practical. If you're night hiking, you are better off with a light coming from your hip, or else you will lose a good amount of depth perception (due to lack of shadowing). A little handheld like the ThruNite Ti3 would save you ~3oz.
  
  
• Your trowel is pretty heavy. The Deuce of Spades would save you ~1oz, and there are other even lighter options. I can just personally recommend the deuce.
  
  
• Your first aid kit seems pretty heavy. Most weigh in around 2oz. You can search this subreddit for some suggestions, there are plenty of them out there.
  
  
• Do you really think that you'll get much use out of the hammock? I'm not sure what your hiking style is, but if you're trying to hike for most of the day and then just sleep in camp the ~11.4oz for the hammock doesn't seem worth it. If you're planning on spending a good amount of time in camp it might be worth it.
  
  All together, you could save almost 6lbs. Obviously some things are based on comfort. For the best bang for your buck, dropping the extra clothes and the solar is free. Getting a lighter tent will also have a great impact.
  
  Hope this helps!

Okay let's start from the beginning- each of your devices needs to be machine-controllable.

Lights- you can use smart bulbs (Hue etc) or you can use lighting controllers (smart light switches, plug-in dimmer modules, etc). Either way you'll either need a network like Z-Wave or Zigbee or Insteon to control them, which will require a USB RF interface. You could use all WiFi devices but I don't recommend this.

TV- that probably means infrared. Some TVs you can control by serial port, other TVs you can control with network traffic. 99% chance infrared is your best bet though.

Fan- if this is a plug-in fan you can use a plug-in switch module. What kind of fan is it?

Xbox- probably via IR.

Voice control- Alexa or Google Home.

Hub- Home Assistant works, HomeSeer costs money but might be easier to set up.

So to break this down, you need to find a way to interface all these devices with your hub. Let's assume you're using HA.

For the lights, you need a primary control technology, that'll be Z-Wave, Zigbee, Insteon, etc. I suggest Z-Wave as it's got better support in both Home Assistant and HomeSeer. That unfortunately rules out Hue bulbs, but it means you can instead get nice Z-Wave smart light switches and use your existing bulbs. Here's a popular one. If you want super controllability check out the HomeSeer branded switches- they'll work fine with Home Assistant, they have several LEDs that you can program to do whatever, you can decouple the switch (so pushing the button doesn't turn on the light but rather sends a Z-Wave command), program double/triple/quadruple tap actions, etc.

Note that if you really really want Hue lights, Home Assistant and HomeSeer both (somewhat) support ZigBee. You can also buy a Hue Bridge, which is basically an Ethernet-Zigbee interface that's Hue-proprietary, and link that to HA or HomeSeer.

Fan- if it's a plug in fan you need a plug-in appliance/switch module. Here's one. If you have a ceiling fan type thing you'll need a ceiling fan switch. Here's one of those (HomeSeer makes one too).

IR (TV, Xbox, etc)- probably BroadLink devices or Global Cache iTach. Note that if you try HomeSeer, Global Cache works, Broadlink I think does not.

Voice commands- How to integrate Alexa and Home Assistant.

You can spend WAY less. For one, buy tools as you need them, not all at once. To address some of your tools, here is my input. For reference, I am a homeowner and hobbyist woodworker, not a pro.

Table Saw: That Jet is overpriced for what you get. If you want to spend that much, get a SawStop, if you want a comparable saw to the Jet for significantly less, look at the Grizzly G0771z. I have the older revision of this saw(g0771) and love it. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-T-Shaped-Fence/G0771Z

Miter Saw: Ditch it. Anything you can do on it you can do on the table saw. Certain things are a bit easier on the miter saw like cutting molding, so if it is something you insist on, get a cheap one. You'll be surprised how little you use it.


Drill press: Can't beat free.


Router: Save yourself significant money but buying the Bosch 1617EVSPK. It is a combo plunge and fixed router(interchangeable bases) and is widely regarded as one of the best routers you can buy. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Horsepower-Variable-1617EVSPK/dp/B00005RHPD

Router Table: That one is nice, but there are cheaper options, such as build your own with MDF or look for used on Craigslist. This is a nice one, but expensive.

Modular Table Base: Not sure what you have in mind, but if you can build it definitely do so.

Jet Clamps: Nothing wrong with those, but they are expensive and probably more than you need. Have a harbor freight near you? Their clamps are cheap and decent enough. For more heavy duty applications, get some pipe clamps.

Dewalt Planer: If you have a need for a planer, yes this is the one to get.

Delta Jointer: Don't bother. You probably don't have a need for a jointer right off the bat and when you do, don't bother with the tabletop models. They are very limited with what you can get straight due to the short beds. Get a floor standing one with long beds. 6 inch wide if you must, 8 inch if you have the means.

Jet dust collector: This is another area where Harbor Freight shines. Jet is overpriced. The HF 2 HP is a great buy, make sure to use a 20% off coupon. https://www.harborfreight.com/70-gal-2-hp-heavy-duty-high-flow-high-capacity-dust-collector-61790.html

Band Saw: Don't bother with a 10 inch, it will be seriously limited. With the money you are saving on the other tools above, up your budget and get a Laguna 14|12 or 14bx. If that is too much, look for an older used 14 inch delta. Those old ones require a bit of cleanup but are built like tanks and will last you forever. No matter which saw you get, throw out the blade that comes with it and buy a good one. The Highland Woodworking Woodslicer blades are nice value for the price: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx

Nail Guns: Do you really need a nailgun? And if you do, does it really need to be cordless? How much do you plan on using it. A combo kit with a compressor can be had for less than the price of one of the battery operated ones.

Paint Sprayer: How much do you plan on painting? A good roller is a lot cheaper if this is a one and done kind of thing.

Good luck and if you have any more questions I'll be happy to answer whatever I can.

Descriptions with links

1. Moleskin mini-notebook.
   
   
2. Zebra F-301 Bold: Notebook and pen get dropped into my shirt pocket. On weekends, whether they come along is completely dependent on whether my shirt has a shirt pocket.
   
   
3. Seiko 5 SNK793: Just got this last week actually, but I really like it. I had a Hamilton Jazzmaster before and, while a quality piece and I love the style, the case was just too big/heavy for my liking. I found myself wearing my Timex weekender on a NATO strap more and more. This has a very similar case size, although slightly thicker/heavier due to automatic movement. Something classy/understated enough for work.
   
   
4. Maratac Copper AAA: I really love this thing. This is not the newest version (rev 3), so it only has low/high, but that's all I really need. Feels very solidly made, I have dropped it numerous times and it has nary a mark. Despite the exterior being solid copper, it isn’t as heavy as I thought it would be and I never even notice it in my pocket, even in dress pants. I leave the clip on so I can set it on my desk/counter and not have it roll off, but often don’t bother to clip it to my pocket. Sometimes I’ll clip it to my coin pocket in jeans but usually just leave it in my right pocket with my keys. I don’t know what to say other than that I really love this thing.
   
   
5. Leatherman Squirt ps4: Very small, disappears into my pocket. Even in dress pants at work, I don't feel this weighing them down at all.
   
   
6. Keysmart with 2 apartment keys: The rivets tend to come loose, which is a little annoying. May throw some Loctite or something on the threads to keep them be. Otherwise, I like it.
   
   
7. Nexus 4: Love this phone. No intention of getting rid of it anytime soon. Unless they come out with a phone that will bake me cookies or dispense coffee, the only reason I'll move on is that this one dies.
   
   
8. SOG Fielder: SOG Fielder. Just like guns, black means you obviously want to kill people but any kind of wood stock/handle means you probably just have it for utility. /s I actually really like this knife. Very classy, feels good in the hand, good weight. I get lots of compliments on it.
   
   
9. Crappy wallet from Wal-mart or something
   
   
10. Springfield Xds 3.3 in 9mm in a Crossbreed minituck
    

• Love this pistol. Fun to shoot at the range and feels great in the hand. Well built, well balanced. So far, nearly 2k rounds in, no FTFs, no jams, no light strikes, nada. Trigger is a little stiff, but that kind of comes with the territory for a gun designed for CCW. I ordered the PRP trigger kit to lighten it a bit. Also, I’m probably going to have night sights installed soon. Nothing wrong with the stock ones, I just want night sights :).
  
  Minituck holster is great. I hiked 10 miles in the White Mountains last weekend and hardly noticed this setup at all. Will most likely go with Crossbreed for future holsters. I can successfully tuck in a shirt around the gun if need be with this one. (I do not carry at work because my employer does not allow it)
  

You're main electrical draws are going to be your major appliances then lighting. Though there isn't really one thing you can do to see a huge decrease in power consumption doing a few things together would be noticeable.

• Turning the temp of you're fridge/freezer up a degree or two always helps, obviously don't go to high or that defeats the purpose.
  
  
• Keeping your blinds drawn, or getting semi transparent blinds, to block out the sun and keep your apartment cooler will help reduce your AC consumption by a lot, which is easily your largest draw during the summer.
  
  
• Using the timer on your AC can actually see a huge improvement, set your AC to turn off about 1/2 way or 3/4 of the way through the night depending on how warm it is out side. If your AC doesn't have this feature you can always pick up something along these lines.
  
  
• Obviously use CFL bulbs, people often complain about CFL bulbs but I think that's just out of misinformation. Unlike Incandescent bulbs there is a HUGE difference between each CFL brand and even bulbs within the same brand. If you're intrested I can go into further detail on this as there is probably a paragraph or two of information.
  
  
• Look into residential rebate programs from your power provider for anything energy efficient. In order to receive a power generation license in the US your provider must have a program in place to reduce their costumers power consumption by 1% annually. They usually do this by offering rebates on energy efficient items. On CFL bulbs this can be a $1-$4 depending on the area, but on larger appliances, such as an energy efficient window ac (or for home owners furnaces and water heaters) the rebates can become pretty substantial.
  
  
• Make sure all of your electronics actually turn off when they're off. For example if you hit the power button once on the Nintendo Wii it just hibernation mode which cuts the power consumption from 18watts to 10watts (not even a 50% reduction!) where as holding the power button turns the unit off and it will only draw 1 watt. You pretty much have to google your electronics to figure this one out. The other fun way (and is useful in other situations as well) is to pick up a Kill-o-watt. These nifty little guys will show you the power draw of whatever is plugged into it, I usually have mine plugged into my fridge or my power strip for my entertainment center. You could plug in your entertainment center power strip and reset the meter before you go to bed to see how much power everything is drawing when you're not using it, you will be surprised!
  
  
• Finally the biggest and hardest one, behavior modification. The biggest waste of power in the world is power not being utilized. I once surveyed a site that had multiple buildings, one of which was vacant. The site didn't realize the lights were coming on in the vacant building because of a timer and had spent $15,000 a year for the last 4 years lighting up an empty building. Make sure to turn off the lights when you're done, take the milk out of the fridge then SHUT the fridge, turn off your electronics when you're are done (or at least hibernate them). These things are the hardest to do but once the habit is formed it won't be an issue.
  
  Off the top of my head that's what I got! If I think of other things I will add them! Also I apologize if some of my numbers are off, I've been out of the industry for a few years now.

1. Around the $200-250 mark is the sweet spot of good routers in my opinion. I haven't personally used it but this bosch gets very good reviews and costs $200. I personally have this Triton router. It really depends what features you need. The Bosch is a good general use router which will be able to tackle most tasks. The Triton is good if you intend to use in a router table because it has a built in lift system. Another nice thing about the triton is its basically a fixed based and plunge router in one so you dont have to change the bases. That's not really a big deal as changing bases isn't hard but it is nice.
   
   
2. Pretty much all routers will come with a fence for straight cuts. Others than that jigs depend on what tasks you want to use the router for, I don't think there's any must haves. Most router jigs can be built out of offcuts and scraps so you can just make them as you need them.
   
   
3. Yes, you can replace the functionality of a router with hand tools. It might not be practical though and will definitely cost you more money. A router basically replaces any joinery plane or moulding plane. You'd need a plough plane, rebate plane, router plane, and a half dozen moulding planes to replace the basic functions of a router, and more for specialty work. Before routers a wood worker would have around 50 to 60 different planes to do the jobs a router can do.
   
   
4. Companies like Ryobi don't necessarily make crap tools but they're geared towards people doing DIY type work. They aren't made to the same level of quality as better brands. In my opinion for something like a router its worth getting something a bit better.
   
   
5. Routers have a lot of functions, too many to list. You've covered the basic ones such as mouldings and joinery. Some others include inlay and template routing. They're a very versatile tool. I wouldn't worry too much about learning everything all at once. Once you start using it you'll learn how it works and what you can do with it.

Good morning /u/EFaden and congrats on the new house!

I'm not sure what HUB you have but there are a couple options if you want to keep the standard in-wall switch, but use scenes to automate things.

Disclaimer: I'm associated with Inovelli, so please keep that in mind. However, I'll lay out all the options that I know of since the scene switches are a passion of mine since they can do so much

On that note, there's a few brands that I'm aware of that have the scene functionality built into a normal in-wall switch and they are: GE, ZWP, HomeSeer, and ourselves.

GE, I believe has a double tap feature in their new Z-Wave Plus switches, but I just have their old ones in my house (which have been great) so I can't confirm, but I've seen posts about it.

HomeSeer was actually one of the first, if not the first companies to come out with this and I personally have one of their switches in my house as well and it's been rock solid. You can add up to I believe 10 scenes to it by single/double/triple/4x/5x tapping the switch (top and bottom). There's a specific device handler for it if you're on SmartThings.

ZWP, I don't really know much about, I just saw they had a scene switch too.

As for Inovelli, we're really proud of the work our guys put into the firmware this time and I'll highlight some of the features below:

• Ability to add 10-12 scenes (10 for Dimmer and 12 for On/Off) based on taps or holds
  
  
• Ability to disable the internal relay - this is good for people who use smart bulbs on their loads so that now when the switch is used, rather than cutting power to the smart bulb, the switch will instead send a scene command to the HUB to turn the light on (or if you have a Z-Wave bulb, it can be directly associated with the bulb and there will be no need for a command to be sent to the HUB). I personally use this feature in my daughter's room bc she has a Hue light setup on it and depending on the number of taps, the bulb will turn a different color
  
  
• For dimmers, you can now set the default brightness based on the time of day. An example would be at night time if you don't want to blind yourself in the bathroom, you can set it so that the dimmer will only dim to 10% between the hours of 10pm and 6am. This can be set to happen locally (manual pressing) or remotely
  
  
• Also for Dimmers, you can change the speed at which the switch turns on. Some people like a slow dim, some people like a fast dim, while others like an, "instant on" effect to mimic an On/Off switch
  
  
• Change the minimum dimming level - this is great for if you have an LED bulb that starts flickering at the low setting
  
  
• Finally, you do not have to have an auxiliary switch in a 3-Way setting. Simply wire this up to your existing, "dumb" switch and it will work as a normal 3-Way switch
  
  As I said above, not sure what HUB you have, but we wrote device handlers for SmartThings and Drivers for Hubitat, but if you don't have those, the settings above can all be done via parameters (except for the dimming based on time of day, let me check with our VP of Tech)
  
  Anyway, I hope that helped a bit. You can't go wrong with any of those brands. They're all unique in their own way and if you're thinking about Z-Wave, then they are some very reputable brands.
  
  Have a great day and if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
  
  Eric
  
  Founder | Inovelli
  
  

  
  <br />
  Links:<br />
  <br />
  GE: <br />
  <br />

• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C
  
  HomeSeer: (they have quite a few, so just type in, "HomeSeer Z-Wave Plus Switch" and they should all come up. I'm going to put the couple I know work with ST)
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFSAAJ4
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFRWZNE
  
  ZWP:
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725SZMTG
  
  Inovelli
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N235ROS
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAUCQ18

I believe a 11.1V LiPo might be a bit too strong for a cheap AEG (Automatic Electric Gun) like the CM028, so for a beginner I'd recommend a 7.4V LiPo. Also important is to get a balance charger like the IMAX B6. If you don't use a balance charger, the battery may die or even burst into flames (since there is always a tiny risk of LiPos catching on fire even if you do everything right, store them in a fireproof container).

As for eye and face protection, a good and cheap combination are the Pyramex I-Force Dual Pane Anti-Fog Goggles at ~$16 and the OneTigris Foldable Mesh Mask at ~$15-17. You could play without lower face protection, but it's very easy to lose a tooth if you get shot in the face and replacing teeth is extremely expensive.

I personally use a paintball mask (the Dye i4 to be exact), because it's more comfortable and basically impossible to fog up, but a paintball mask is usually pretty expensive ($90-180) and won't be welcome at Milsim events.

If you have some money to burn (like $500+) and want to acquire really easily transferable skills (great demonstration of that here: https://youtu.be/qQDfwyUgtjg), you can go down the GBB (Gas Blowback) route. Those guns are more expensive to buy, spare mags are more expensive and they need routine maintenance, but training with and using them constantly will yield great improvement in your skill with real firearms because they function almost exactly like real firearms (if that's something you're interested in). And also GBBs are extremely fun xD

Or for a compromise between realism and budget, get an AEG rifle and a GBB pistol. Good GBB pistols can be had for as low as $100, a great budget choice here is the WE Glock 17.

Goggles + face shield: I would recommend the Pyramex I-Force goggles. They are extremely light and dependable for all types of gameplay. For some reason, I can't make them fog (which is really good btw), and the price is pretty damn good too. Also, stay clear away from mesh goggles. For face protection, I would use a metal mesh mask. Any will do (I haven't seen any company screw up mesh masks yet).

Batteries: For a battery, my input would be to start with a 9.6v NiMH battery (you seem to already have one). If you know how to take care of them, upgrade to a 7.4v LiPo battery for the best performance. The 'C' rating should be around 15C if you are just beginning your use of LiPos.

Charger: For different battery types, it depends. A lot of people say that Tenergy Smart chargers work great with NiMH batteries, so I'll throw that on (feel free to correct me if there is a better one). For LiPos, I personally use a Turnigy Accucel-6, which has had no problems for me yet (again, please correct me if there is a better one).

Internals/Tools: I wouldn't say to open your GB yet if you aren't willing to devote some time. If you are, then I would say to pick up a set of allen wrenches/hex keys in multiple sizes, a set of screwdrivers in varying sizes, tweezers, pliers, wire cutters, Dremel, soldering iron, and a couple neodymium magnets (for keeping things in place, like ARLs).

The first things you want to upgrade (in my opinion, your build will vary) would be your motor and hopup bucking. Your motor basically drives the trigger response, rate of fire, and torque (ability to pull strong springs) of your gun.

A good 16TPA motor like the SHS High Torque or the ZCI Balanced will be good for most applications. They both have a good mix of trigger response and speed, and get you about 20RPS on a 9.6v NiMH, M120 spring, and 18:1 gears (results may vary). For higher torque builds (M125 and above), use a 22TPA motor for good trigger response and loss of fire rate. Do some research to find which motor is right for you.

Your hop-up bucking is one of the most important things to upgrade. Upgrade to a Prometheus Purple, Maple Leaf, or Lonex bucking for better consistency. In almost every application, flathopping the bucking is vital (you can search up how to flathop. there are plenty of articles out there).

BBs (Pellets): For your BBs, go with Elite Force BBs (.25s work for most applications). They are well-priced, and are some of the best BBs that I have used.

Guide: Search the forums and this subreddit. I don't want to type an essay, and it would do you much more good to search it up yourself (you learn more if you find it yourself instead of listening to me).

Maintenance: Refer to above, but do lube your gun every one in a while. (also research on how to do that).

A good 416 would be the VFC HK416 CQB, or the TM Recoil Shock 416 (can't find link sorry). Either are good choices and are relatively low-priced.

An AEG will serve you well. A well-upgraded AEG is dependable and cheaper to run than a GBBR. Most airsoft guns have Picatinny rails that can take real-steel attachments, so you're good there.

Do NOT get the 'discoveryline' one. It's not worth it. The two I mentioned above are the best, and will let you upgrade as you wish.

Best of luck!

So I got into the first batch on massdrop for the WhiteFox by Matt3o. Price wasn't too bad, picked the Aria with Cherry MX browns, came out to 189 shipped I believe (I can look at massdrop, but I don't recall if that included shipping or not). I will say that this wasn't planned, or at least I didn't think it was planned. I thought I got the assembled version, but I actually got the kit. I contacted massdrop about it, who was very kind but simply told me what I ordered and provided the receipt. Yup, I fucked up... or did I?

For those who are like me, decent with there hands but never did this before don't sweat it. It isn't that hard, but here are a few tips (esp if you have a WhiteFox you need to assemble):

• Google. Matt3o had a great post on this with some videos / catchy music. There is also a video series from Input Club.
  
• Get a decent iron. I got the Weller WLC100 from Amazon, cost me 40 bucks with a thing of .3mm rosin core solder. I think the steel wool cleaner was another 5 bucks since I didn't trust a 500F tip against a sponge :)
  
• If you get the Weller WLC100, or any Iron that has a tip that looks like a screw driver get a chizzel tip. It was a pain in the ass to do the LED with that flat tip. I would recommend also a steel wool cleaner, not required but made cleaning the tip while the iron was hot easy as hell.
  
  Soldering the switches was a breeze. Did I fuck up a few solders? Sure, but the switch works :) Did I fuck up a few of the LED and had to desolder / resolder them, fuck ya lol. The LED solder pads are fucking tiny. That is all I will have to say. My only tip would be take your time, and when you put the LED in make sure you bent the leads a bit to make sure they don't fall through (now you know why I had to desolder and resolder).
  
  Besides that from unboxing to testing fully on my wife's laptop (ill get into that below, which is kinda funny) took me a little under 3 hours.. Not bad for a first time, and the feeling that I actually built something I will use for years to come is amazing. The keyboard overall is a joy to type on, and I love it.
  
  The only non-keyboard related issue I had was with the LED actually. So I did the top row of LEDs, and then plugged it into my machine. Machine recognized the keyboard like it did with all the switch tests I did as I soldered them, the LED would turn on and then off about two seconds later. I panicked, checked the solder joints and then searched the internet. I got nowhere, so I emailed Mat3o. Since it was late, I went to my wife's laptop downstairs (mine is in the truck, and I am too lazy to undo the alarm to go outside and get it) and it worked fine. Everything worked fine. This computer will be formatted tomorrow since there is a number of issues I found with system files, thank you Windows 10 updates /s (I looked at the windows updates logs to when the issue started - or issues, and it was after an update which ended up corrupting a few system DLL).
  
  TL;DR:
  
  
• Build my first mechanical keyboard
  
• Hate soldering LED(s), will never do it again
  
• Love the WhiteFox Aria
  
  Edit
  
  Does anyone understand how the hell you update the firmware?
  
  Edit #2
  
  Along with updating the firmware, a manual or at least tell me which controller is in here :)
  
  Super Important Edit #3
  
  Flash your firmware! /u/mister-la gave me a great article here but I wanted to add that for some reason my board came with some firmware issues which caused the LED issue. It was only happening on Windows 10 for whatever reason, and what would happen is the keyboard would be recognized by Windows and LED would turn on, along with do the little "device plugged in" noise. About 2-3 seconds later the keyboard would still function but the LED would not work, and then do the "device disconnected" chime. I did some Google FU along with searching the input club and realized back in late May they released a new firmware to solve a ton of USB bugs for the KLL board, which is what the WhiteFox runs.
  
  I ended up following the article above except the GUI tool ended up crashing. What I did was take a blank Aria firmware from input.club, and flashing it with dfu-util.exe. It is really simple:
  
  

1. Download your firmware into a separate folder if you want, mine is C:\WhiteFox\Firmware
   
   
2. Download the KII-DFU into a separate folder. Mine is under C:\WhiteFox\KII-DFU
   
   
3. Open a command prompt as an admin (winkey + X, command prompt with admin) and then change directory to your KII-DFU folder (CD C:\WhiteFox\KII-DFU)
   
   
4. Connect a separate keyboard, and then on the back of your whitefox click the little button in the back of the keyboard (there is a hole in the frame so you can get to it with a small allen key). Hold it down until the keyboard disconnects from Windows and then release the button. It should be orange.
   
   
5. Run the following command, which will flash the firmware and then reboot the keyboard: KII-DFU.exe -D C:\WhiteFox\Firmware\kiibohd.dfu.bin
   
   That is what fixed my keyboard, and now it works wonderfully. I think its pretty awesome how the configurator tool on Input Club allows you to remap a bunch of the keys with ease, and then using the command line flashing is a breeze.
   
   Cheers!
   
   
   
   
   
   

>He mentioned that your armies go obsolete like every 2 years! Is this true?

No, not really. New rules will come out every few years, which may force you to alter the roster of models and wargear you’re fielding, but models are almost never written out of the game.

>Should they just start with A Start Collecting Pack?

Yes. Start Collecting packs are fantastic.

>This pack would be a 500pt or 1000pt?

Start Collecting packs are closer to 500 points. There isn’t an exact point number because you can change the number of models in a squad or give them different wargear.

>Co worker also suggested taking them both to GW to see if they can even get their head around playing the game as the rule book is pretty intense…

Yeah, going to a game shop and having someone experienced walk you through the game is a pretty good way to get a handle on the basic rules. GW shops love new people, although they tend to be very pushy salesmen.

>Or should they get a Rule book to read. Then their codex. One wants Necrons the other Dark Eldar. And then decide on a 1000pt army and start buying/building/painting etc?

I’d say see if a game shop can give them a demo first before you commit to models and books. This stuff is expensive.

Don’t worry about what a 1000 point army is. It takes time to get there. I say…

1. Start with a demo. If they like it, move on to…
   
   
2. …the Start Collecting boxes, a small-format copy of the core rules from ebay, and the Codexes for whichever armies they chose. You'll also want primer, paint, brushes, plastic glue and/or loctite superglue, a pair of sprue cutters, and some small files.
   
   
3. Once they’ve got a handle on the basic army rules that cover what they already own, use the codex to figure out what you’d need to add to build a good 500 point list, then 750, then 1000. Your ideas about what to include in your army will change as you gain more experience with your opponents.
   
   (Also don't let them buy new boxes unless the ones they have are already built.)
   
   Good luck!

Not sure on /u/Steammonkey restock times, you can always pm him. There are other vendors who carry it (shouldn't be hard to find) as well.

[This is my multimeter] (http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA), I'm sure many are similarly laid out. (I had this before I started building; not sure if there's a "recommended" multimeter out there.) You can see the little "OHM" on the dial, set it there :) The battery voltage meter settings on the side are under "battery load test", you put the pos to the pos end of your batt, neg to neg :) There are some youtube videos specifically for multimeters + vaping that are helpful and will also show you where to position the leads for checking ohms, etc. On the vids, pay attention to how to check your meter's internal resistance, esp. with lower ohm builds. Be sure to buy a digital multimeter, not the analog kind w/ the bouncy arm for readouts.

I use Panasonic CGR18650s, AW 18490s, and MNKEs mainly for vaping so I don't know those (I had to search for mine, not printed on batts most of the time); it may be easier to search for the "c" rating of your battery so you can calculate its amp limits. (Again, sm's monkey u has a nice walkthru; it's not hard, just math.) Off the bat I'd say you likely don't want to use your "mystery" blue batt unless you can verify mfr/c rating... most batts packaged with kits are okay for vv/vw devices, not really super for mechs esp. when you're cloud chasing/low ohms. Is the ncr panny protected? (I don't know.) You don't want to use protected batts.

The 2c for safety fuse ... is a nice idea, but I think it has a 8 or 10 watt limit? (Don't quote me, I'm pulling numbers from you-know-where.) It'll be tripped pretty fast with low ohms... I don't think you can use them effectively with anything over 1.5 ohms or so. They make resettable ones (along w/ ones that are one time use, and that would stink), but again, they'll just stop your batt from firing when you want it to put out the watts you'll be pulling w/ lower ohms.

Honestly, I'd start high-ish and work your way down. Totally honest again, I'm kind of loving higher ohm (1.5-2.0) on my vv device (Provari), using one right now as I type. You can push much higher volts with the amplification of vv than you can reach with mechs, won't come near amp limits (you'll hit your device's amp limit before your battery's), and will still get a super vape. I have [a post on some higher (than sub) ohm builds + vv here] (http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1g9c87/fun_with_contact_coils_higher_ohm_rbas_and/) to give you an idea of what I mean. Not saying don't go mech, I'm running 0.8 right now on my GV Sentinel and it's super, but ... I'm a ninny, "true" cloud chasing/sub 0.5 ohms freak me the f out ;) and some people have written off vv devices + RBAs when they really shouldn't. It may be harder to build/test on a PWM (pbusardo has a vid if you don't know about PWM) vv device, but firing is lovely once you get it on point :)

Happy reading, watching, building :)

I've never heard of Legrand, and I've always seen Lutron as having more of a closed system, but I see that Caseta is getting, or just got official SmartThings support. What I meant was going with z-wave dimmers or on/off switches like the ones made by GE or Linear/GoControl. The nice things about regular z-wave, z-wave plus, and zigbee products like this is that it's compatible with a whole slew of hubs, and will probably be supported by all future hubs for a long, long time. Doesn't matter if you have SmartThings, Wink, VeraLite, whatever, it will work.

Lighting doesn't have to be complicated, it's more about the hub you go with, than the device that controls your bulbs because that is what you interact with. I have a mix of z-wave dimmers and smart bulbs around the house, altogether 20 something light devices connected to a SmartThings hub. Alexa integration is great, as is Google Assistant on android (I have no iOS devices). I can tell either Alexa or the Google Assistant to turn lights on/off, dim lights to a percentage (I love being able to dim lights to any percent I want, 1%, 10%, 63%, whatever I want) and they change instantly. I use an android app called SharpTools that has a great UI for controlling devices, and good support for creating widgets.

I don't use scenes, but SmartThings has "routines" so you can create a widget on your phone's home screen or control it with Alexa to perform preset tasks (Set Living Room light to 10%, Set Reading Lamp to 85%, turn on a power outlet, lock your front door, etc).

Here's some links if you want to look at some other options:

GE Z-Wave Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2

Linear Z-Wave Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1OVFAK/ (I have a bunch of these and they're great).

I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.

I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!

​

Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.

​

• Airbrush - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQKFAI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Compressor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDNKBMC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (One of the quietest compressors - I use it in the house and my gf can't hear it kick on, and she sleeps in the room right above it.)
  
• Airbrush Hose - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BF7NJ78/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Moisture Trap - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQO8WY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Couplers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TFE7WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Didn't need this big of a set, but if you end up with tools for the compressor they will come in handy.)
  
• Airbrush Cleaner kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3MG6Z4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Respirator - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Extra Filters - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTP9MDO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TJA0S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Thinner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X6DTHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Improver - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QD780G0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Primer I use for minis - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BMZVMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  For the compressor, I keep mine at about 18-20 while doing miniatures and it's perfect.
  
  I do 1 drop Improver, 5 drops thinner, and 6 drops primer and have perfect flow.
  
  ​
  
  Feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
  
  Hvstle

Honestly, this question can be asked about any tool. Should a hobbyist buy cheap tools just to get started or spend more on quality tools, but buy fewer of them at first?

For the most part, I'm in the "buy quality tools" camp. I started out on the cheap tools (Skil, Ryobi, etc) and they made a lot of tasks harder than they needed to be. That is, a skilled craftsman could have gotten quality results from those tools but I certainly couldn't. I found that the quality of my work jumped dramatically when I switched to precision tools.

Now... in your case, none of three routers that you're referencing would be in the cheap crap territory, as far as I'm concerned. You'll do fine with any of them.

Some thoughts, though:

The Bosch 1617EVSPK is often considered the gold standard for mid sized routers. Many many woodworkers have that one and love it. You will absolutely not regret getting it.

The DeWalt DW618PK is a direct competitor to the Bosch and holds its own very well. Lots of very satisfied users of that model, too. Another that you'll definitely love.

The Hitachi models... are almost surely worth getting as well. I'll be honest, though -- they aren't talked about as much as either the Bosch or DeWalt.

One final thought: Depending on how you'll use a router, you might consider a "trim" router like the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've found that one to be notably easier to handle than my mid sized and it has handled everything I've thrown at it with aplomb. Really, the only downside is that it can only accept 1/4" shanks and most of my bits are 1/2". If I had more 1/4" bits then I'll likely use the DWP611PK almost exclusively when not on the router table.

Smart switches are the best replacement because it leaves everything the way every other house is built, but adds smart functionality. If you install smart bulbs, they are controlled from two different sources - the light switch, and your phone. Want to turn the light on but someone flipped the switch? You must get up to manually flip the switch, then control the light bulb.

Smart bulbs are only good if you live in an apartment complex, need RGB bulbs, or want to change color temperature. Overall, the smart switch is the best thing to use because it only adds functionality, not take any away. I personally use a technology called Z-Wave which creates a strong mesh network in your house. Z-Wave doesn't rely on internet, which means if your internet goes down they continue to function. A large portion of WiFi devices require you to have internet as well, which is a huge downfall of home automation relying on WiFi.

I have a couple of these, a Vision Relay that i've installed to keep my original switches, and a few other z-wave outlets around.

You have a lot of recommendations to get a headlamp and a reflective vest, I wanted to weigh in on what kind of headlamp you should consider.

Ideally you'd get something lightweight, with enough power to see in front of you and make yourself somewhat visible (although that's more what the reflective vest is for). You should also get something with removable batteries so you could bring spares.

Most of the recommendations on here are for climbing lights by companies like Petzl which are colorful and fun and if you go with one of those you'll probably be fine.

But there are much better options. Those climbing lights (at least the cheaper ones) aren't waterproof, they're splash/sneeze resistant. Might last a while in rain. But IPX8 waterproof would be better. Also they're mostly plastic. The expensive ones are insanely expensive. Here are some cheaper, more bombproof options (all single AA, there are other AAA and 18650 options too but 1xAA makes for a very lightweight package):

Zebralight H53c ($59)
Excellent light, I own it's bigger brother the H600, fantastic build quality all around. 79 grams with battery.

Manker E03H ($35) Another good option. Go for the Nichia LED, much better color accuracy. 103 grams with battery.

[Fenix HL23] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UHZXAYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kglPBbREJNAKJ) ($35) Reputable brand, good light. Not as waterproof, only IPX6. Still solid. 75 grams with battery.


There are a few more options, especially if you want more (18650) or less (AAA) power and weight. Check out /r/flashlight for more info. Or hit me up. Good luck and stay safe out there.

What to store things in

I use binders for commonly used cards and cardboard boxes for "bulk" cards (The cards you don't think you will use very often): 5000 capacity box, 800 capacity box

I also hear that these Stanley Organizers are also incredible for storage, as each compartment is the perfect size for a sleeved MTG commander deck (100 cards).

The binder should definitely be sorted. Not only is it more organized that way, you can find the cards you need much faster. The box can be unsorted, though I like to at least keep cards belonging to the same faction together.

This does run into the problem of occasionally not knowing whether a card is in the binder or box, but it has the advantage of giving you quicker access to the cards you most commonly use. I mostly do this because of habits from MTG, where you get tons of useless cards, but Netrunner doesn't give you nearly as many useless cards, so you could make the argument for storing all your cards together instead of differentiating between commonly used cards and bulk.

How to sort cards quickly

Your cards can be in whatever order you want: completely alphabetical, by faction and then by type and then alphabetical, by set, whatever. Your personal preference.

However, when it comes to sorting cards, or anything in general, there are fast ways to sort and slow ways to sort. Anyone who has studied computer science can attest to this. The difference is small when you only have a few cards, but quickly becomes massive as the number of cards grows.

Here are the two sorting algorithms you should know if you want to sort your cards quickly: Quicksort and Merge sort. They are among the fastest algorithms out there, they're easy to understand, and they're practical for sorting cards by hand. I'll explain them in the context of sorting cards below.

Quicksort

Here's how quicksort works for computers: Choose a "pivot" item at random from the unsorted pile. Now, go through everything and divide it into two piles: Those that would come before the pivot, and those that would come after the pivot. Then, sort each pile individually (usually with yet another quicksort). Once the piles are sorted, just combine them and put the pivot in between them, and voila, the pile as a whole is in order.

However, if you're a human, you'll find it more efficient to sort based on certain characteristics of the card that you can quickly identify (such as the card's faction) instead of whether or not the card comes before or after a randomly chosen pivot. In addition, you'll want to separate into multiple piles instead of just 2.

Here's an example: You want your cards sorted by faction and then in alphabetical order. You already sorted you cards by faction, and now, you want to sort your Anarch cards in alphabetical order. The cards you want to sort are in the following order: Wyldside, Demolition run, Deja Vu, Grimoire, Corroder, Medium, Yog.0, Stimhack, Parasite. The first step of quicksort is to divide the cards into piles. When sorting alphabetically, I like to make a pile for cards from A-E, one for F-M, one for N-R, and one last one for S-Z. However, as long as every card in one pile comes before every card in the next pile, it doesn't matter how you make your piles. So, dividing these unsorted cards into piles (according to my preferred sorting scheme), we get the following piles:

{Demolition run, Deja Vu, Corroder}, {Grimoire, Medium}, {Parasite}, {Wyldside, Stimhack, Yog.0}

Each individual pile is not in order, so we sort each pile individually (I would use another quicksort on these piles if they were bigger) to get:

{Corroder, Deja Vu, Demolition run}, {Grimoire, Medium}, {Parasite}, {Stimhack, Wyldside, Yog.0}

Then, we just combine the piles and we're good.

Merge sort

Here's how merge sort works for computers: Divide your big pile into 2 separate piles, and then sort those piles individually (Usually with another merge sort). Then, once the 2 piles are sorted, merge the piles into one sorted pile. The merging process is made much easier by the fact that the two piles are already sorted individually.

Here's how the merging process works: Look at the top item of both piles. Whichever one comes first gets added to the bottom of a new combined pile. Repeat until both piles are empty, and voila, your combined pile is sorted in order.

Example: You have the following sorted piles: {Demolition run, Yog.0, Wyldside}, {Corroder, Parasite}. The first elements of our 2 piles are Demolition run and Corroder. Corroder comes first, it becomes our new combined pile. Now, the top item of our 2 piles are Demolition Run and Parasite. Demolition run comes before Parasite, so it gets put at the bottom of our combined pile. The top cards of the piles are: Yog.0, Parasite. Parasite is put at the bottom of the combined pile. The second pile is now empty, so just put the rest of the first pile at the bottom of the combined pile. The combined pile looks like this: {Corroder, Demolition run, Parasite, Yog.0, Wyldside}. It's sorted, yay!

If you're a human, you'll be doing mostly the same thing as the computer. However, instead of having to lift up the combined pile to put a card at the bottom of it, you can instead make the entire combined pile face-down and add cards to the top. When you're done merging, just flip the combined pile upside-down.

Which one?

From experience, quicksort is a lot better if you have an unorganized mess to sort.

However, if you're adding some brand new cards to an already sorted collection, you'll want to use mergesort instead, since your collection is already sorted. Simply sort the new cards, and then merge the pile of new cards and your already sorted collection.

How NOT to sort your cards

Perhaps you currently sort your cards like this: Pull a card out of the unsorted pile, find out where it goes in your pile of sorted cards, then put it there. Repeat until unsorted pile is empty.

Or, maybe you do this: Go through the unsorted pile, find the item in the pile that goes below every other item in the unsorted pile, put that item at the bottom of the sorted pile. Repeat until unsorted pile is empty.

If they feel slow, that's because they are. They're mathematically inferior to quicksort and merge sort. The first method is actually OK if you want to just put back a card you took out of your collection, but if you have more than a few cards to add to your collection, merge sort instead.

Philosophy: spend as much money as you can on the best Big 3 you can. Leave worrying about shaving grams with titanium mugs and other small shit until you get bored and you budget is bigger. :)

Big 3: $610

• Tarptent double rainbow - $275
  
• Enlightened equipment - RevX 40 - $180
  
• ULA CDT - $135
  
• Thremarest Ridgerest SOlite (Torso length) - $20
  
  
  Cooking: $24.50
  
  
• Stanco Greasepot: $10
  
• Tritan LMF spork: $2
  
• Supercat stove: Free
  
• Aluminum foil windscreen: free +effort
  
• Reflectix pot cozy: $10 + effort
  
• Bic mini: $0.50
  
• Waterbottles: 2x 1L Kroger-brand generic smart water bottles: $2
  
  
  First Aid: $32
  
  
• Scentless Zinc oxide creme: $5
  
• Moleskins: $2
  
• Dr. Bronners unscented baby-mild soap: $5
  
• Band-aids: free
  
• Ducktape: free
  
• ibuprofen: free
  
• Imodium: free
  
• 100% DEET: $5
  
• sunscreen: free
  
• Aqua Mira tablets: $15
  
  Clothing: $64
  
  
• baseball cap: free
  
• bandana: free
  
• synthetic t-shirt from walmart: $5
  
• dri-ducks 100 wt fleece $32
  
• nylon gym shorts: free
  
• running shoes: free
  
• socks (2 pair): $27
  
• garbage bag poncho: free
  
  Other: $58
  
  
• headlamp: $35
  
• leatherman squirt: $23
  
  Total: $788.50
  
  base weight : ~10lbs
  

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

That's kind of a tough set of requirements. Most of the lights we generally recommend have done away with the red mode in favor of a very dim white. While there are some military requirements that dictate its use, generally speaking you need a lot more red brightness to see what you're able to with a lower level of white. For many years it was hard to make a white light dim enough to do this properly, but technology has caught up. We can probably recommend some, but they aren't going to be the best lights around.

Next issue is the rubber strap. There are probably some available, but none that I know of off the top of my head. Most lights use an elastic fabric strap. You could probably replace it with some rubber if necessary, but the industry standard is something else.

The Skilhunt H03 mentioned in another comment is a really excellent light, it uses an 18650 size battery, which is the best compromise of size versus runtime that you'll find, and an unbeatable light for the money. You can find one here. You'll also need a couple of Batteries and a charger. This is the best setup you'll get for the $50 budget.

If by single-strap you mean that you don't want one going over the top of the head, an AA form factor light would probably be your best bet. The Thrunite TH20 is a steal for $30. It runs on normal AA batteries (not recommended because they leak, but doable in a pinch) or 14500 lithium cells. With the 14500 cells, it has over 500 lumens of brightness at the top level, and a ramping interface that lets you choose exactly the amount of light you want. It's lightweight, tough, waterproof, and the controls are intuitive. It has a very low moonlight mode that I'd rather have than any of my previous red mode lights, and there's a direct shortcut to it so you don't have to scroll through higher modes in order to get to it. If you go this route, you'd need some of these batteries and the charger I linked to above. Note that the battery and charger links are not to Amazon, there is a risk of counterfeit batteries buying there, so most people here buy from illumn.com or liionwholesale.com.

I realize these suggestions are a bit of departure from what you are asking for, but based on what I understand of your use case I think they would be your best options.

Seconding the flashlight and multi tool.

I carry my flashlight with a pocket clip just so it can be attached to the brim of my ballcap if I need light and both hands. Much easier than fumbling with my phone.

Also, if I’m in a situation (ie: truck broke down, power’s out, etc) I don’t want to waste precious phone battery for a flashlight, which uses a ton of juice. Gotta save those sweet amps for mobile gaming, or emergency comms.

I just picked up a Thrunite Ti3, very happy with it. It’s very small, study, great output, multiple settings, and the clip is amazingly (surprisingly) strong.

ThruNite Ti3 EDC Cree XP-G2 R5 AAA Torch Max120 Lumens LED Flashlight, Mini, Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUO028U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Also, a good multi tool is a must for me.

I have several, a Gerber and a Leatherman, as well as a half dozen cheap no name models, but I carry the Victorinox SAK Tinker daily. Fits well in the coin pocket of my jeans. It does have a blade on it though, so be wary of that. If you don’t go with the Tinker, another Victorinox would still be great.

My Leatherman has been with my for well over a decade, and is my daily work carry, but I’m a firm believer that they don’t make them like they used to (mine is a 2002 model).

The Gerber is a forever backup. It was a gift, and my least favorite. Feels cheap in my hands when I use it, but I know it would get the job done if necessary. It stays in my range bag normally.

As for the Tinker, here’s a link;
Victorinox Swiss Army Tinker Pocket Knife, Red,91mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YVB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jGmKAb8QN9QH9

Good luck and happy hunting.

Ok, so there are a lot of things I'd probably change :)

​

Motors - SabotageRC Booty 2306-2300kV, they're cheaper and significantly higher quality than the DYS you're looking at (they are made by DYS, as well, but with much higher quality components and build quality)

​

ESC - beware Racerstar. Some things they OEM and you get a good product for a good price, but others you get significant drops in quality. I would pay a few cents more apiece and get Spedix ES-20 Lite ESCs.

​

VTX - the one you selected is decent, but your soldering skills need to be up to par, the wires come undone from the VTX extremely easily and are incredibly difficult to reattach. I would recommend a few dollars more to get an AKK VTX with either larger pads or a connector.

​

VTX antennas - There are better ones out there. Lumenier Axii is one of the best and most durable (and significantly lighter), pagoda antennas being slightly better in some regards but more fragile.

​

Radio - The Turnigy Evolution is about the same price now and is a better choice than the FS-i6. Still uses the Flysky AFHDS2A protocol, so it will work with the receiver you selected (and there are now others that are good, as well). If the phonebook style radio appeals to you, then the i6 is the only cheap choice, but keep in mind it is a CHEAP radio, not an inexpensive one.

​

Wire - I would suggest ordering some 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 gauge wire from Hobbyking (as much as they suck, they're the only place that sells lengths of wire inexpensively). Getting 1m of each wire in both black and red should only be 10-15 bucks IIRC.

​

Power supply for charger - get a supply that is at least 19v and 200 watts, like this: https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-LRS-200-24-211-2W-Switchable/dp/B00YMA7I7C/ it is a few dollars more, but you can also run your charger at its full output, which will come in handy for charging your batteries in a timely fashion.

​

Soldering iron - get a quality one, you're going to need it. https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/

​

You should also get some no-clean flux: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispensing/dp/B00425FUW2/

​

Decent solder: https://www.amazon.com/MAIYUM-63-37-solder-electrical-soldering/dp/B076QF1Y85/

​

And a tip cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Wire-type-soldering-cleaner/dp/B00FZPGDLA/

​

That should get you well on your way - still on a budget, but you'll hate yourself WAY less when you go to build it and have decent equipment. :)

Setting up an automation system in your house requires 3 different areas:

1. Controlled "appliances"
   
   
2. A hub
   
   
3. A controller
   
   I am being specifically vague when I say controlled appliances because this group is vast and varried. You can have smart light bulbs, smart light switches, smart wall outlets, smart thermostats, various sensors, security cameras, and the list goes on and on.
   
   All of these appliances will have a communication system such as z-wave or wifi that allows it to connect to the hub and be controlled virtually.
   
   These can be extremely expensive, but most have gotten relatively cheap. For instance, the light switches I have are about $40 each. So, for about $40 per room you can completely automate the lights of your entire house.
   
   The Hub is simply a device that connects to all of the above appliances and allows you to control them virtually. I have a smartthigns hub. I really like it, but there are several other options that you can use. All have their benefits and drawbacks.
   
   As said above, the main job of the hub is to be the connection/control point for all of your appliances. The secondary bit is that each hub has a control OS that you interface with as a controller for your system. This will take two forms. First form is an app you can install on a tablet or smartphone that will allow you to set up routines or directly control every single connected appliance from wherever you are in the world. The second form (not on every hub) is a simple programming interface that gives you powerful customizing options to how you want to control your system. If you can imagine it (and code it) you can do it, pretty much.
   
   The controller group is also where the echo fits in. You don't need an echo, but it is an amazing addition. Typically having a smart system just meant you could control everything on cool customized timers, virtually from everywhere in the world, and from a centralized "remote" in your house instead of having to go to each device. With the echo you can skip the tablet "remote" all together and just speak to your house and it listens.
   
   I highly recommend diving into the world of an automated system. It is only a couple hundred dollars to get started and you can slowly build your system out over time. Check out /r/homeautomation for some more info too.

It does not look like the switches are the problem... I have not done a minidox, but from this build guide it looks like you might have soldered the jumpers for the left and right side, SJ1 and SJ2 wrong. Your photo is too blurry to tell for sure but it looks like all three pads are soldered together? This is how it should look. Also, do you have a multimeter to test your reset switch and the diode orientation? Did you take any shots of your diode side before you soldered the switches and switch plate on?

Take a look at SJ1 & SJ2 and see if you can clean that up and test that they are jumpered correctly and lets go from there.

I am far from perfect, but here is how I solder my switches and components... Contra, and close up... Clean and Smooth :) This is a good shot of the PM, switches and diodes from my Gherkin See how the solder curves up the sides of the switch? Like cones and not globs or balls.

It is a dance... apply iron to hole and component, add the solder, remove solder then remove the iron in just the right time to not get a cold solder and not too long to warp the switch so it either doesn't work on give double presses and then it has to be removed and replaced.

The solder will flow to the heat... it like heat... I try to keep most of the contact with the pcb and less to the switch cause then the solder flows it will add heat to the switch... hope that makes sense. Once you get the groove, it feels so good.

Hope you can get your minidox working. looks like a cool board!

1. Benchmade 771 - out of production, 154CM blade - aluminum handle w/ Axis lock
   
   
2. Kenneth Cole wallet - very slim and usable for a front pocket wallet.
   
   
3. Tissot PR-50 - also out of production but similar watches are available for the same price. Check for a "sapphire" crystal. It is much more scratch resistant than the "mineral" glass crystals out there.
   
   
4. Leatherman Squirt P4 - a handy multi-tool with: blade/file/pliers/screwdrivers/bottle opener/reamer/etc.
   
   
5. United Defense Pen - a solid and affordable aluminum "defense" pen. When paired with a Fisher Space Pen refill - it writes everywhere: upside down, in freezing conditions, under water, always moves smoothly, etc.
   
   
6. Illuminati Titanium AAA light - because titanium is cool and 115 lumens is bright from a single "AAA" light. This one is using an Energizer lithium battery for extra run time (over an hour on high - way longer on lower settings). For comparison, a regular 2D Maglite is only about 50 lumen.
   
   
7. Zippo lighter - it's a "Zippo". If you need one they are time honored and reliable.
   
   
8. Titanium rings - 40% lighter than steel, just as strong, and 100% more unique.
   
   
9. Titanium clips - Looks like they are out of the Ti McGizmo's.
   
   
10. Custom engraved tag: $25.00 total, I had to have 5 tags made (to make the minimum) so I gave out a few gifts since I only wanted two (I added friends' numbers for their tags). I don't remember the name of the engraving company unfortunately. Some pet stores (Petco) have machines that do single engravings for "pet tags" that would work perfect for a keychain i.d. and only cost around $5.
    
    
    Edit: If anyone is curious, everything looks pretty much the same after three years except the Squirt's anodizing is a little chipped up. Black leather dye, Lexol leather conditioner, and polishing compound helps to maintain the shiny look. Also maybe don't put your Benchmade in the washer/dryer - that is hard on the bead blast finishing and also really aggravating when you realize it is not just a metal button from your jeans making the noise.

1. The first rule of Keto, is we do NOT talk about Keto to folks "outside"
   
   
2. The second rule of Keto, is WE DO NOT TALK ABOUT KETO TO FOLKS "OUTSIDE"! You will get a LOT of fear-mongering if you do. At first, only allude to it.. like "cutting out sugar", "watching what I eat", etc... when you have indisputable proof that it IS working, then you can actually mention "No/Low-Carb".
   
   
3. Get some flair going! (over by the subscribe button, the 'normal' format is Gender/Age/Height Starting Weight, Current Weight, Goal, but do what you like with it)
   
   
4. If you're putting it in your steak hole, you'd better be weighing it (if it's not pre-packaged), and logging it. Quite a few of us are on MFP. This can help avoid "surprises" later, and help keep you accountable, even if only to yourself. Once you get the hang of it, you can let up, but if you stall out, that'll be the first thing people will ask: "Are you logging what you eat?"
   
   
5. Treat foods with <1g carbs/serving as 1g, save yourself the headache.
   
   
6. If you don't know if it has carbs in it, assume it has carbs in it, and probably quite a bit more than you expect.
   
   
7. MEASURE EVERYTHING! Take before pictures, take during pictures, use a scale, but don't trust the bastard. Invest in a measuring tape If you don't have one already. There WILL be weeks where the scale doesn't budge, but you might simply be replacing fat with muscle.
   
   
8. You're about to shed a bunch of weight, it'll be water. If this is surprising to you, read the FAQ!, the FAQ is good!
   
   
9. Bonus points if you can arrange for "pre" bloodwork, so you can get some "post" bloodwork to help with point #2
   
   oh, and welcome! :D

Like /u/JshWright, I use z-wave switches and dimmers that replace the physical switch. They're quite a bit more expensive, but easily fit in any switch junction box and don't have to connect to wifi.

I use either GE or Linear/GoControl brand. Both seem to work the same. Only reason I use a combination is because I'm picky and the white color of the Linear ones don't quite match the standard wall plates and switches. So I use the cheaper Linear switches for single gang boxes and the GE for multi:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-500-Watt-Wall-Mount/dp/B00E1OVFAK

3-way configurations are pretty easy with these, just might take you a bit to figure out which wires need to go where. With the GE switches you have one master switch like the one I linked above, and then their add-on switch for the others in the circuit. Linear has an add-on switch also, but it's like twice the price of the GE one. So I always use GE for 3 or 4-way switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

I've looked at the HomeSeer ones too, which look pretty cool. They're Z-wave Plus and also support double and triple tap, although I'm not sure if HASS and/or OpenZWave support that function anyway.

http://www.homeseer.com/compare-z-wave-on---off-wall-switches.html

The easy but expensive way is to use a bracket like this. Expensive not only because you have to buy one for each joint, but it also doubles the number of fasteners you need. And since you're being wise and using stainless steel fasteners only on your cedar fence, that cost adds up.

Cheaper would be to drill pocket holes into the end of each rail. Put the pocket holes in the face side that will be covered up by the pickets. This does two things: the pocket screw is angled into the meat of the post rather than the side and here you can get away with using cheaper coated screws because they'll be somewhat protected by the picket and if they do bleed, the picket will be in front anyway. Plus it's a much cleaner look.

I like the Kreg K3 for basic homeowner tasks. It's especially great for this because it's easy to move it to the long rails. Pair it with a cheap face clamp and you're set. Throw a little polyurethane construction adhesive in the joint (mostly to keep the water out).

This is how I built my fence. 3 years later and the rails are as tight as ever. I have every confidence that they'll make it to 15 years just fine. Or, rather, if something breaks on this fence, it won't be the rails.

Looks like a solid start to me! I would recommend not fully assembling your models before you paint them, some places can be hard to reach when fully assembled.

1. The army painter range of brushes is a solid starting point, I think they have a starter pack with a few essential brushes. Get a tub of brush cleaner and clean your brushes throughout your time painting, I like to clean them when I change colors. This will keep in good condition and extend their life!
   
   
2. I like the GW plastic glue, it melts the pieces together for a strong connection! Super glue is also good and if you need to change a model up you can freeze them and they will snap apart.
   
   
3. I like the GW brand primers, though they are expensive! I've used army painter before and had mixed results, some good some terrible.
   
   
4. I do not have any experience with sealers.
   
   Necessary Hobby Items
   
   

• Brush Cleaner
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Cutters
  
• Pin Drill
  
• Desk Lamp W/ Magnifier
  
  
  

IGNORE ALL OF THOSE GOGGLES AND BUY Pyramex I-force dual lense

jk (:

Well you don't have to ignore them, but these goggles are so cheap you can buy like 4 for all your friends and still spend less than on revisions.

I can tell you that they are very low profile, I can get my eye past the relief on my trijicon, and they do NOT fog at all!

I sweat a lot on hot days and that would usually fog up my lens but these.. super comfortable, do not fog. Just make sure your eyelashes are nice and soft because they will brush up agaisnt the lens a little bit but it doesn't bother me. You don't even feel it.

HERE

I was messing around with it to the point where I thought I would break it but it is very flexible. Only problem is if you sweat too much it will drip down the lens, you can just wipe it off. It's not as bad as fog, which you don't get with these (:

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

These ThorFires are considered pretty good lights. Probably the best in the cheap-chinese knockoff category on Amazon. You can get better lights for cheaper from banggood and dealbest, like the BLF-348 that's been recommended multiple times, but shipping takes a few weeks. Only issue I have with the ThorFire TG06 is the PWM (visible flickering) on the low modes and the very blue tint. I've become a bit of a tint snob as neutral whites have become more common.

But for a few bucks more I'd go for a Thrunite Ti3 with the neutral white LED. I've gotten a few for a few girl friends (and my girlfriend) and they all keep them on their keys and LOVE them. Instead of using the included chain and clip I just put a small split ring on the light and slip that on their keyring. Only problem is a lost head every now and again.

A cheaper, similar option is the Olight i3E series which also come in fun colors for $11. Cool white only Comes with a Luxeon LED so the tint is probably actually quite nice.

My girlfriend is now carrying an Olight i3S-EOS Brass on her keys that I bought for myself, but she really liked the aesthetics of the brass, and I liked that it pumps out a blistering 180lm (I'd say it's a fairly accurate claim) on the first turn, so it's actually a viable self-defense light. Enough to disorient somebody, kick 'em where it hurts, and run. It's cool white, but a fairly neutral one. I lucked out.

Best to run them on eneloop rechargeable batteries, but they add a bit of weight and initial cost. Performance and runtime is best with those batteries. Lithium primaries ("Energizer Ultimate Lithium") are a good option for a rarely-used keychain light because they are very light, about half the weight of a rechargeable, and they do not leak or self-discharge. With an aluminum light and a lithium cell, the light only weighs a few more grams than a key. I never recommend alkalines (regular duracell, etc) batteries because the leakage can and will ruin a light, especially one exposed to lots of abuse, temperature extremes, and seldom use. It's basically impossible to clean lights that can't be full disassembled, so you may never recover the original performance if it even works at all after a leak.

I worked as a gaming console repair tech for a couple years and have modded probably over 100 xboxes at this point. Here's some tips I've learned.

> How can I avoid causing permanent damage to the machine?

Get a decent iron. Something $60 or more. The cheap ones from walmart and such are a waste of time and money. Spend a little bit more and you'll save time and aggravation. Get something with enough power to stay hot while you're using it. Get one that has a usable temperature control (not just a 20-watt or 40-watt switch but something that gives the temp reading in degrees). Get something that lets you change tips and get something that has small/precise tip options. A good cheaper option is the Auoye int 2900. I used that one for years before upgrading to a better one. Try to keep it hot enough to melt the solder, but not much higher. More heat = higher risk of damaging something. Use flux and use it often. I use MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste just about every time I solder something. Keep the tip clean. Clean it often while you're working. A lot of folks will use a wet sponge but that's not ideal (temp change can reduce lifespan of the tip). Use a brass-wire one instead like this one. Try to not over-do it with the solder. Use enough to form a secure connection, but don't use so much that there's a big blob leftover on the wire when you're done. I usually dab a small amount of solder on my iron, then add more once the tip is on/next to the spot I'm working on.

> Can this be done indoors, if a window is open?

Sure. I usually open a window and run a box fan in the window blowing air outside, plus a ceiling fan. I also wear a facemask. It helps to be conscious of your breathing. I'll take a breath in, then get over my work and tap where I need to while exhaling, and I'll to try to turn my head away from my working area when inhaling just to limit fume inhalation. Ideally, you'd have a fume extractor, but those are often expensive.

> What protective equipment do I need?

I usually wear a mask/respirator and eye shields and that's about it. I'll sometimes wear an anti-static wristband but static hasn't been a big issue in my working area.

> What's the best way to setup a hard drive?

This doesn't require soldering but I'll comment anyways. My preferred workflow is to softmod the Xbox, then do a TSOP flash, then drop in a new hard drive and use a disc like HeXen to format the drive. Your 1.6 xbox cannot be tsop-flashed, so you'll you can either install a modchip (more difficult) or just setup your new hard drive with the softmod files on it (easier). You can use the app Chimp to clone a small hard drive to a bigger one and it doesn't require a modchip to be installed. If you don't have a modchip/tsop-flash, then make sure you lock the new hard drive after you're done.

> Where would you suggest looking for a 'soldering mentor' of sorts, if need be?

Soldering isn't all that hard. I never had a mentor. I just screwed around in my room until I got the hang of it. It seems harder than it is before you actually start doing it. You just need to take your time, use tools that are good enough, use the proper temperature (not crazy high), clean your tools as you go, use flux, and try to keep a steady hand. You can look up YouTube tutorials and stuff, but I didn't. I used to teach console repair when I did it professionally a few years back and I used to teach people who had no prior experience. Once you've done it a couple times, you'll see that it's not that hard. Feel free to practice connecting wires to broken electronics you have just to get the muscle memory down.

Assuming you have SmartThings (based on the /r), you can use any Z-wave or Zigbee switch. I've tried multiple (reputable) brands, based on what's on sale, and my experience has been they're all pretty much the same. But all mine look like modern paddle switches, there are other options out there.

It's debatable, but I'd call the 'gold standard' to be the GE switches. I was just providing a link to them in a thread yesterday and noticed they were on sale for $33, which is a damn good price. Looks like they rolled out an updated version so they're discounted, and personally I don't think the upgrades mean much. I just picked up 4 more, because... why not.

When those aren't on sale I've been going to Zooz. I like their small company attitude and they have terrific customer support. And they frequently have sales. You can get them on Amazon, but the sales are on their website.

These are the types of wall plates that I use. Easy to find in single, 2-, 3-, and even 4- gang. I have a custom made 7-gang at my house, so everything I've bought since was done to match that style.

But again, all these are because I wanted modern paddle switches and the "decora" style wall plates. You can get smart switches in traditional rockers, or modern version like the Caseta switches (which still use the decora shape).

You'd be surprised a) how easy it is to use Arduino, and b) how helpful the online community is. The nice thing about Arduino is that the complexity remains the same, regardless of how many sensors you add, provided you have enough expansion breakout board.

For a first step, I would buy a starter kit and a cheap soldering iron and a half-decent multimeter and just start making little projects, like light sensors and temperature sensors and making those projects both wireless and online.

After that, it's just a matter of interfacing the larger, higher-voltage components (like pumps and valves) with the lower-voltage Arduino. This is easily accomplished with a relay, which is also useful for electrical isolation between the two subsystems.

Start small. I would recommend making an Arduino into a timer, and then using the timer to control a pump. Then add an online API that allows you to adjust the on/off time of the pump. Then add water level sensors, then temperature sensors, etc.

Also, make sure you prototype everything on a small scale first, like the guy in the video was doing on his desk. It will save you a lot of money if you mess anything up.

Once you develop the skills necessary to build your smart-system, I cannot stress how important a good, detailed electrical diagram is. It doesn't matter if it's professional-quality, or done with pencil and a ruler. It will save you so much time.

Hey /u/Mercury357 !

Sorry I can't offer much advice when it comes to Inovelli or Zooz, but I'm sure you'll get a great response from some of the other members here.

I can however, relay that the GE Switches are on sale right now on Amazon for $30.99 and the GE Dimmers are on sale for $32.99

Our Add-On switches work great for 3 and 4-way setups as well, those run $19.50 right now

If you have any questions about GE product, feel free to ask. :)

On a budget, I would stay well clear of things like Hue- they are very expensive to scale up because they rely on each bulb being "smart", and this also means they are limited in terms of which light fittings you can use in the future.

Personally i've gone for a self-build Z-Wave option, preferring to embed z-wave dimmers in my walls (behind the light switch) and make my own controller from a raspberry pi + some software called "Domoticz". This means an initial outlay of about $70 for the pi+Zwave adaptor, and then a cost of $40 per room after that regardless of how many bulbs you need. A hue solution would be 3-4x the cost.

The downside (or upside depending on your POV!) is that you need to build this yourself - setup your own alexa bridge, install + configure domoticz, and be willing to handle the electrical connections to your switches. It's all really easy though if you have the desire to get stuck in (there are lots of youtube tutorials). You can save a lot of $$ though particularly if you are in the US where the parts are generally cheaper than the UK (Where I am), and your setup will be much more configurable than any off the shelf solution. You can also add more obscure devices easily to a domoticz setup. I have my security cameras hooked in for example and setup so that a relevant light will turn on when the motion sensing is triggered between certain hours, and my wifi kettle connected so I can ask alexa to turn the kettle on. It's rather fun and addictive once you get started :)

As a starting point here are a few links that may help:

• Razberry - the Z-wave adaptor for the pi - http://razberry.z-wave.me/
  
• Domoticz - home automation software (free) - https://www.domoticz.com/
  
• Alexa-Domoticz bridget - https://github.com/madgeni/alexa_domo
  
• Fibario dimmers (what I use) - http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-fibaro-universal-dimmer-2-250w
  
• GE Dimmers (fine for US, not usable for me in the UK) https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
  
  

Great, super light, can hold in hand for better trail illumination or clip on to a hat for hands free.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUO028U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b2l2Cb31GDXSB

Awesome headlamp. Super light, lots of levels and a red light and lockable. Get it from Litesmith.com with the shock cord band for an even lighter option.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z3LNX9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q3l2CbTEV8FDE

I have both and love both.

Here are some useful links: Link; Link; Link. The Marantz cost about $58 using good quality replacements. I did a H/K 330B for $9.58. The Marantz 2285 I am working on cost about $90 for parts.

 

You will need a decent soldering iron; solder sucker; desoldering braid; lead solder; flux; and most importantly a multimeter. Here is another gear thread. Most of the manuals are available on Hifiengine. What you can't find there you can check the forums or Sams. Manuals on Fleabay should be an absolute last resort.

 

I would recommend going to a local thrift store and getting some practice junker units. It will take you some time to good at it and you certainly don't want to screw up your good unit. I still don't know anywhere near enough to do more than replace the parts and do basic troubleshooting. Fortunately for people like us, there are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable persons on the forums who are always willing to lend a hand. Edit: Forgot about the Dim Bulb Tester.

Wow! Thanks for an awesome reply. Unfortunately I'm not in a position where I can spend much money so I'll have to see if I can find some flea markets near me to buy some stuff at. All this stuff is great info that I need to look at better when I have time where I don't need to be asleep. But while I'm here I want to ask you one thing: What do you think of the Kreg jig? I'm using it to hold on the back of some floating nightstands and also used it heavily on my desk, although on my desk they aren't really load bearing whereas on the nightstands all the weight is going through that backplate first.


Thanks again for the awesome reply :)

You could keep your current bulbs and install a smart switch instead, this is a popular option:
https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506608062&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+smart+switch&psc=1

You would need a hub with that, but considering smartthings is selling for $50 on Amazon it could be more cost effective depending on the amount of bulbs you would have to replace if you went with smart bulbs instead.

For the smart bulb option I'd say check out sylvania lightify. Lowes has them on sale now for 75% off. They're $7.50 for the basic white ones. It can pair directly with most smart home hubs like smartthings or wink so if you already have one it would be very cost effective.
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Lightify-promotion/4294400949

High end was the wrong term to use, high output would be more appropriate - I think an 18650 powered headlamp would be a bit ridiculous on a child-sized head. That being said, an AA light would be a great option. Popular choices include the Manker E03H (Nichia option), Thrunite TH20, or a Zebralight H53Fw. All except the Thrunite can be used as handheld lights as well as headlamps just by taking them out of their straps.

The big benefit here is everywhere he looks will be bright. Headlamps don't have a ton of throw, but that's usually not an issue camping because there's trees everywhere. If he wants to see further across a lake or clearing, put a Convoy C8 or an Emisar D1S in his hand. Those two lights both have huge throw, and he can actually carry them, unlike the TN42.

You'll have 2 lights instead of 1, but:

• He can keep his hands free to play around
  
  
• The combined weight is still less than the huge lights you were looking at
  
  
• A headlamp and a compact thrower are probably more fun for him
  
  
• You'll spend less money
  
  
• You'll have more flashlights

I used this article for some cursory info on switches, and went with these in the end:

GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724

The price was good for how many switches I was installing, and I like them a lot except for two minor things:

1. The lights fade on/off a bit too slowly for my liking. This however can be changed by altering a setting from your Z-Wave hub, though I haven't had time to fiddle with that yet.
   
   
2. The rocker doesn't depress all the way, it sort of stops half-way and clicks. Most people won't care about this or probably even notice it, but it's a minor pet-peeve of mine.
   
   I also got a SmartThings Kit to control them while it was on sale for $100 off for Black Friday (it was the lowest price they've ever sold for, but it's currently $50, which is still pretty good). You can also just get the hub, but I wanted some sensors so the kit made sense to me.
   
   I wish the Hue Hub was a bit more robust, but sadly it can't be used directly in conjunction with any known in-wall switches. However, You can add Hue bulbs to SmartThings, so that can wind up being a central place to manage things.
   
   Personally, I also setup Home Assistant which lets me do a lot more with other product APIs, and lets me control the UI to some extent as well. Be warned though that it does require some understanding of code and servers. I setup the Home Assistant MQTT Bridge for SmartThings so it can talk to my ST Hub, and use it for automation instead of SmartThings. Hypothetically you can just get a Z-Wave USB stick for your Home Assistant server in lieu of something like SmartThings and have it act as a hub directly, but I felt getting a ST Hub was easier.
   
   Finally, I also got a Google Home while it was on sale, and used IFTTT to create custom commands so I can trigger scenes in Home Assistant for things like watching a movie on my projector, watching TV, getting ready for bed, etc. I also want to have it automatically turn the projector and TV on eventually as part of the scene, but haven't had time to play with that yet.
   
   It was a little annoying to setup, but I like it a lot now that everything's humming along.

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

here are tips i can add to the pile; get an accurate remote thermostat or humidistat for your window A/C units.

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

thermostats built into most A/C units are cheap, inaccurate and cycle your unit on/off unnecessarily.

what i do is plug an A/C rated appliance extension cord into this thermostat, then my A/C into the extension cord so the distance between the A/C and the thermostat is now across the room. this separate thermostat helps keep your A/C unit from cycling too much by moderating the temperature where you actually are in the room.

when you plug your A/C into this thermostate, set the A/C thermostate on lowest and fan on always. that way when the remote thermostate goes on the A/C will always be on Cool+Fan no matter what the temperature is.

some new A/C units have temperature sensing thermostat built into the remote control that you keep accross the room from the A/C unit window, so look for this feature when you are buying a new window unit as it should help you be more comfortable at higher ambient temperatures without your A/C cycling too much;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036WTWCQ (i do not own this A/C, i just link it as an example)

.

if you really want to save money on A/C, you could set your unit to go on/off based on HUMIDITY, not temperature. to do that you will need to buy (and apply the same way as the above a remote thermostat);

http://www.amazon.com/DAYTON-1UHG2-Dehumidifier-Control-Plug/dp/B001OLVNU0

so when the room Humidity gets uncomfortably above 50%, only then will you let the A/C kick on more for it's dehumidification ability, then it's cooling power. once the air is lower in humidity you should be fine with nothing more than a box fan to circulate air against your skin for cooling.

.

if you live in a dry heat zone, combine a fan with a evaporative wick humidifier. as the water evaporates it takes heat energy out of the fan blown air and moderately cools the room. the added humidity will also make you feel more comfortable in the dry air. this approach is commonly known as a desert cooler. evaporative wicks can last all season if you use a capful of bacteriostatic solution in the water. to clean a wick, simply allow it to run dry for a few hours.

http://www.amazon.com/821-000-Digital-Control-Evaporative-Humidifier/dp/B0000D8EJZ

I was in your position once, though I had a folding bike with a flatbar (so essentially a hybrid that folds). As someone mentioned below, getting Ergon grips with barends does at least get you a second hand position, but frankly, it looks like you've explored all the options and none are particularly exceptional. One of the additional costs to consider in conversion (in addition to the drop bar and brifters) is that the hybrid-style v-brakes are incompatible with brifters, and you either have to get road-style caliper brakes (best) or an adapter (look for a "travel agent"), which some say cause some sponginess or lack of feel in braking.

Anyway, I wouldn't say that someone that logs 100+ miles a week (20x3+40) is a "casual" rider, and I discovered that after doing a century ride, I felt the "versatility" of the upright, flatbar hybrid position was too limiting. It's a shame you have such a nice hybrid bike--frankly, I'm disappointed in the bike industry's push to get people onto hybrids, in my jaded view, they are simply a case of "jack of all trades, master of none" and the so-called "versatility" is just another word to sell bikes to people who are initially put off by the idea of lycra-clad roadies. Road bikes come in all kinds of geometries these days, and there are some pretty relaxed geometry bikes (they call them "endurance" these days) which should really be what's sold to the more "casual" rider instead of hybrids.

Anyway again, I sympathize with your apartment lifestyle... I ended up sucking it up and getting a real road bike after deciding that I like biking enough and I wanted to commit to it as a positive lifestyle/fitness change. Thankfully, since the other bike is a folding bike, the space addition wasn't huge. Maybe the solution instead is a really nice two bicycle rack :)

yeah, that's not normal. 6 LED bulbs definitely shouldn't overload a dimmer switch (a quick look at the dimmer switch data sheet says it should handle 150W of LED load), but an easy way to test is to unscrew all but one of them and see if that single bulb has full dimming range. You might also take one of these bulbs and put it in a normal switched light socket, and see if it goes to full brightness.

If the flickering is happening to all the bulbs at the same time, it's almost certainly the dimmer switch. All 6 bulbs having an identical flaw seems pretty unlikely. The flicker indicates it's not a software issue with your Vera, either.

Both the GE zwave dimmers and the Linear/2gig zwave dimmers work pretty well and are about the same price as that dragon tech dimmer. It's also possible your dragon tech dimmer is just a one-off lemon and the brand itself is generally fine.

Gun:
G&G CM16 is solid. It has rails, is pretty light, and is suitable for CQB. Get him a couple of hi-cap magazines, 9.6v butterfly battery and smart charger to go with it and he's set gun wise.

Eye and Face pro:
I really like my Pyramex I-Force, never fog, low-profile, and meet the ANZI impact requirements so his eyes will be safe. The OneTigris mesh mask is really comfortable and will protect his face and more importantly his teeth. There are some that clip onto FAST and BMP helmets as well. Small version and one with ear-pro attached.

Honestly if he holds the barrel, there's no need to spend money on a grip, you can always go back and buy it later if he wants it. Same goes for the other equipment and attachments, stick with the basics and make sure he likes it before heavily investing.
A lot of people stand by Just Airsoft Ammo for BBs. Only use .2g BBs at the minimum. .12s and cheap BBs will mess up the gun's internals and may shatter on impact, potentially seriously injuring the person who was shot.

I was running this LG ACoutside of a 5x5x8 tent and it kept it plenty cool enough. It comes with some in window mounts and a exhaust duct. I had to do some clever rigging on the front in to some flexible ducting and ran that inside the tent to a diffuser. To control the temperature I ran a power cord to this thing and put that inside the tent. I never really found the best place to put it I just kind of had it hanging in the middle. I then had to run the AC's power cord inside the tent to connect to the temperature controller. It all worked very well when I needed it ! I do wish the temp controller had a 'range' you could put on it. It seemed like the AC was off and on a lot so theres prolly a better way to do that! Anyways good luck! oh and here is some PICTURES of how I ducted the cold air

Hi! Thank both you and /u/redpiano for the replies, I really appreciate it. If you both don't mind I have a couple more questions. Thank you again for taking the time to help me out, it's put me at ease more here and I'm thinking this might not be so bad. (Also pricing HEPA filters because of these posts which is probably a good idea anyway.)

When you say "put an air filter over it", do you mean literally just buying something like this and taping it over the end of the flat slot portion of the tube? I'm a little confused on that.

Regarding thinner, is Vallejo considered safe? I picked basically Vallejo everything just in case there was any cross-brand problems. Also, I take it that alcohol paints and lacquers are considered harmful because of the noxious fumes as well? I use Tamiya spray primer, it's actually what I have the organic vapor mask for, and I know from experience that it's pretty wicked and it sticks around for a long time (I went outside during the summer months and fall but I've had to commandeer the bathroom with an open window in the next room in the past month and a half and just warn people to stay out for a half an hour or so afterwards). I usually end up having to shut the drying pieces in my laundry closet because they are just that potent. (Somewhat related, does anybody know if Stynylrez is any less noxious? I've been trying in vain to find a primer that is as smooth as Tamiya to no avail, but I was hoping that thinning this and spraying it through an airbrush might take care of that.)

There are a couple things I can't avoid using alcohol based paints for (unless anybody knows water based alternatives to things like Tamiya's transparent colours, particularly their red), but I was hoping to just set up a second booth in my other room to do those in short doses.

(Also, this is alright for painting, right, as long as I'm not using stuff with fumes? Like I mentioned before I'd really rather not use up my expensive cartridges for my organic vapor mask too quickly if at all possible.)

I'm an aspiring solderer myself and only recently started learning. There are a LOT of YouTube videos on soldering and desoldering and I feel like they were extremely helpful.

A couple of points that might be beneficial:

Just the tip: Chisel tips disperse heat across a larger contact surface than the pointy tips. You can use less heat if more of the iron's business end is in contact with what you're trying to solder/desolder.

Flux: Solder moves toward metal that is free of corrosion. Exposed metal begins corroding instantly. Flux removes corrosion and, when it melts, the solder adheres to where the flux was. Also, a tined, fluxed tip is becomes a magnet for picking up solder. Get one of these.

ChipQuik might help keep the solder fluid longer and make the sucker work better. I've never used it, it's quite expensive, but that video is damned impressive.

The frustration is still fresh in my mind and I hope this helps. Better yet, I hope some of the other, BETTER solderers add some useful pointers.

I've used both the WESD51 and a few Hakko stations, they're both great. Personally I have the WESD51 because its easier for me to get tips, but either way hakko and weller and both pretty good, definitely go for the digital if you can afford it. Also I'd get a few spare tips and a tip cleaner along with some no clean flux. But I wouldn't get just a reflow, unless all you do is SMD, which you can totally do with a slightly steadier hand and an iron.

Multitool: Leatherman Skeletool - $41.03
Knife: Spyderco Manix 2 Lightweight (S110V) - $114
Light: Thrunite Ti3 - $20

Total: ~$175

Edit - I got the Skeletool for $20 when it was on sale at Home Depot and the Manix 2 on massdrop for $98; so you could get everything for $138 or possibly less if you look for deals.
Edit2 - How about some reasoning:
> Skeletool - this is my favorite multitool because it has only the tools I would forseeably need on a day-to-day basis, and leaves out the tools I associate more with camping (saw, can opener). It rides the pocket comfortably with the secure pocket clip. The carabiner-style clip is clever, because it works double-duty as a bottle opener. The screwdriver and bit/holder gets the job done. My favorite feature, though, is that the (liner-lock) knife can be deployed and folded away with one hand, without unfolding anything else. The most common complaint I hear is that the pliers/wireclippers aren't spring loaded. (And that covers all the tools on the Skeletool!)


> Manix 2 Lightweight (S110V) - this is my most frequently recommended knife because it is:


> 100% ambidextrous
> super lightweight for its size: 2.9 oz (82g) for a 8.03" knife (blade length: 3.37")
>* low maintenance: riveted construction means you can't take the knife apart even if you wanted to. S110V steel is known for its edge retention (I think... I actually don't know anything about bladesteels)

>Thrunite Ti3 - I don't know much about flashlights but I've had this for over a year on the same AAA battery cell and it's going strong. It is tiny, very bright and easy to use.

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

it's all about having the right tip, the right diameter solder, a temperature controlled pencil set to the right value, and that the tip is free of oxidation so that you always make good contact with the parts you're joining.

a breadboard may be more suitable until you get down your technique, watch some youtube videos in the meantime and practice on inexpensive parts.

edit: more tips:

it's also good to have a copper or steel mesh to clean your tip after every joint. the oldschool wet sponge doesn't do as good a job. here's a link:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Solder-Cleaning-Holder/dp/B00FZPGDLA

A 1mm / 1.2mm tip is suitable for most everything including surface mount, the Hakko 900M-T is recommended. Don't be tempted to use a .5mm tip, the heat transfer is not as good and with techniques like drag soldering (youtube it) there's really no reason for it.

For iron temps, if you're using standard rosin core solder the sweet spot is 430 degrees. At that temp I've fooled around with sensitive surface mount parts for longer than I should have and they've all survived.

If you're shopping for a pencil that will last, look at the value models from aoyue and hakko. if you have a bigger budget, weller is the brand to own.

invest in good tools, and practice makes perfect.

Materials aren't impact rated, eyepro is because part of impact testing is that it has to remain in place on your head, but that's besides the point. To put it very simply:

$15 for 16-Joules of impact protection backed by MIL-PRF-32432 impact standards, ANSI Z87.1 high impact standards, and Pyramex, an industry leader in PPE.

Vs. hoping that you selected a strong enough material, hoping that you built your homebrew mask correctly, and hoping that the field allows your homebrew mask (which any field worth their salt will not), backed by your personal, non-expert confidence in your own work.

You can't replace your eyes. Buy the freakin' eyepro.

> I was wondering what your thoughts on the Tiara C1 Pro were compared to the standard Wizard?

It is bulky for a 16340 light but okay for an 18350 light. You can't lock yourself out of the Tiara Pro (or the regular Wizard), while you can lock yourself out of the Wizard Pro.

The Pro features include a boost driver, flashing modes and a battery voltage check. It also comes with a magnet but Armytek sells the magnetic tailcap as an upgrade for the plain lights.

The biggest downside is the headlamp mount. The 18650 lights have a great plastic clip. The Tiaras are still using the old silicon rubber mount. The new mount is more comfortable and very easy to pop the light in/out of.

Another small 16340 option to consider is the Olight H1 Nova. Though I prefer 1xAA for a small headlamp, like a Thrunite TH20.

Depends on how much you want to spend but a simple and easy route is a electric heater with a fan hooked to a thermostats like this

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8

Check all the panels to see how well they are sealed and consider heat mates for under the pots to keep the roots from getting to cold. You can also put down normal mats to insulate the cold from the brick floor.

https://www.amazon.com/Seedling-Hydroponic-Waterproof-Germination-Propagation/dp/B073RC58JN/ref=asc_df_B073RC58JN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216531753338&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5024264790334445552&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014966&hvtargid=pla-350506522936&psc=1

You might want to add a small second fan just to make sure you have a good circulation of air moving and don’t get any cold or hot spots.

If you currently have two switches, one for the fan and one for the light, you can get these. I have this setup in my living room and it's pretty sweet. You just need to set up the fan switch as a dimmer so that you can remotely adjust the fan speed just like you would a dimmer.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch

Some tips I learned the hard way:

• Don't get a GoPro mount just yet. Chances are you probably won't even use it until you're a much better pilot, and it will just add unnecessary weight when you're not using it.
  
• Get an F3 based flight controller (SP Racing F3 or similar) instead of an F1 (Naze32). If you're anything like me, you're going to try to get the most out of your quad and use all of the fancy technologies available to you (like an on screen display, or using SBUS and telemetry with your receiver, or LEDs, or whatever). When you go to add stuff on, though, you have to work with hardware serial ports, or UARTs; the Naze32 has 2 UARTs while F3 FCs have 3 available. Having that extra UART available will make a lot of things a lot easier, and the increased processing power on the F3 should allow you to use more software serial ports than on the Naze (meaning you can use more stuff simultaneously).
  
• When assembling your quad, make sure you put your screws through the plates facing downwards with the nuts on the ground. It's a lot easier to use a socket wrench to tighten stuff than a hex wrench.
  
• If you're building a 250 quad first, use 220X motors instead of 180X motors. The 220X motors are bigger and produce more thrust than the 180X motors, which will improve your flying characteristics. Just make sure that the frame you choose can accommodate them; if you're starting out with a tried and true ZMR250, make sure you get the version with M3-sized arms.
  
• Make sure, among other things, you have the following equipment:
  
  
  • Soldering iron with a fine tip (these are replaceable, so if you already have an iron you can just get the tips). One with adjustable temperature helps a lot.
    
  • Solder
    
  • Soldering flux (I recommend a flux pen; you can get these from Amazon)
    
  • Desoldering wick
    
  • Solder tip cleaning wire
    
  • Soldering iron holder
    
  • Multimeter (useful for testing stuff). Make sure to also get a battery for it.
    
    
• If you're planning on using LEDs, get addressable LED strips (WS2812 or equivalent). Since my ZMR uses nonaddressable strips, I have switches on the strips, which tend to get damaged in rough landings.
  
• Get a spare motor in each direction and a spare ESC. You don't know when you'll break something, but when you do, you'll have a spare you can quickly switch out.
  
• Heatshrink looks better than electrical tape.
  
• Zip ties are your friend.

If the EVS goes out, the router runs at max speed. Which can still be used but scares the crap out of me for slightly larger bits. The best tried and true router is the porter cable here

If you don't need anything that powerful, this one works well also.

Mid power range, this works okay as well.

There are a few other options available. If you want to move it between a pantorouter and table, these will work well. If you want to use it for router table only, triton is a much better choice due to the built in router lift and above table bit change.

With the battery and charger you have on there they don't match. you can't use a nimh charger on a lipo you'll blow it up.

If you're going to use a lipo battery I use this charger

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Cells-Li-PO-Balance-Charger/dp/B004FGWY54/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510907253&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=airsoft+lipo+charger&psc=1

also with that battery it will only work if your gun is front wired (the plug for the battery is in your handguard) if its rear wired it wont work because you need the battery in the buffer tube.

as far as the gun sack you can pick up a hard rifle case at walmart for under 25$ and it will keep your rifle safe and you can lock it with padlocks if you'd like

I also really wouldn't recommend a paintball mask either cause they usually fog unless you get a really nice one like a dye i4/i5. they are also almost impossible to aim down sights with. I use arena flak jaks as I just pop out the vents and they never fog and you can get cheap replacement lens on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arena-Flakjak-Tactical-Eye-Protective-Goggles-Tan-Airsoft-Paintball-Tactical-New/253221912379?epid=1001535811&hash=item3af533bf3b:g:sNEAAOSwCmNZxI2I

others recommend the pyramix goggles as they are lower profile but I just find it easy for them to move off my eyes by just moving facial muscles

https://www.amazon.com/Pyramex-I-Force-Sporty-Anti-Fog-Goggle/dp/B006WPSDXS/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510907577&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=pyramix+i+force

with those if you want lower face protection most people recommend the one tigris as it makes it easy to aim down your sights

https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective-Available/dp/B01MTS1611/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510907635&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=one+tigris+mesh+mask&psc=1

bamf mags I've heard many different things on them so i guess it just depends on your gun if they fit they will be good if not kwa k120s, g&p skullfrog, and pts epm are all good mid caps and those go in order from least to most expensive

Love the Ultimate Guard Twin Flip Tray with Xenoskin. The token holder in the deck box isn't really large enough for everything you need, but a set of dice for casual play fits well there. Tokens themselves are best kept (and organized) in a Plano-style plastic tray with good clasps. You don't want them coming undone in your bag.

I've seen a couple people use Stanley (or similar) brand organizers for carrying a large number of decks around, but you'd want to check the size of the compartments carefully before buying.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0

I highly recommend the Thrunite TH20 headlamp. Durable, fairly lightweight, simple usage, waterproof; perfect for camping. It can get pretty bright if you need it or has very low levels, too. More floody but with a defined hot spot. I recommend the neutral white version. Uses a single regular AA battery or you can use rechargeables if you like. A single battery gives decent run time unless you run it on high all the time. For camp use, I generally don't use it past 15-25% brightness. $29 on Amazon.

ThruNite TH20 Neutral White 520 Lumen CREE XP-L LED Headlamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCV32SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ayOYAb2GT9JK5

Edit: the TH20 isn't bulky on your head like an 18650 based headlamp, but if you need lots of brightness for longer run time, you might consider one of those instead. I use it in pitch black backpacking situations and don't need anything brighter, in fact I've mostly used comparatively very dim headlamps for over 20 years, until getting the TH20.

grab this one and all your concerns will be addressed. it has both fixed and plunge bases. 1/4 and 1/2 collets. plenty of power, and since the bases are removable it mounts great in a router lift or a non-lift table. The fixed base is even designed to work as a mini-lift, allowing adjustments through the table. I own three of these and love them.

edit: it also has quite a few available attachments, like dust collection, edge guides, etc. it's a great starter router and a great forever router, IMO.

• Get an arduino starter kit and start building projects.
  
• This is a good one for a good price.(it's twice that or more on amazon)
  
• and this is a good price for a batch of sensors(no arduino included)
  
• if you want to move stuff a batch of servos is fun
  
• a soldering iron is good
  
• this one is good for the price. I don't like the ones that adjust at the handle. I prefer a base station.
  
• need solder as well
  
• and a solder sucker
  
• flush cut wirecutters are good to have
  
• a good pair of wire strippers is a life saver
  
• Good idea to have a multimeter around for verifying resistance values and voltages
  
• this is a decent one for the price
  
• Need some breadboard for prototyping. I'd suggest at least 3
  
• and some protoboards to finalize your circuit(until you start getting pcb's made)
  
• some solid conductor wire
  
• I like these storage cases for keeping my mess semi-under control.
  
  That's about all I can think of for now.
  

At first glance...

Check out this NatureHike sleeping bag. 24oz's and is great for summer camping. It's good down to maybe 50-55 degrees, but will cut 1.5lb from your pack during the warmer months.

Leatherman and a folding knife? Why? Check out a leatherman squirt at 1.9 oz. I've got one and I love it. This would remove nearly 12oz.

That hammock is heavy. I DIY'd one for $35 and it only weighs 7.5oz. Or, pick up a dutch hammock for 7.3oz (though, this is a little more expensive at $42). This would save another 12oz.

These three would save 48oz or a full 3 lbs!

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

Do you mean a normal side and a dimmer side, for two separate lights/loads, in a single gang? No, I don't.

If you mean a smart switch for a single load, with separate normal and dimming actions, Lutron Caseta has four buttons (on/off with dim up/down in the middle). Those are quite popular, mainly due to their ability to work without requiring a neutral in the electrical box, plus the flexibility of their Pico remote that pairs with them, allowing 3-or-more-way switches, even in places that aren't wired, but won't work directly with Alexa without picking up a Lutron Caseta hub.

Switch/Pico kit
Switch/Pico/hub kit
Pro hub (if needed, for example, with a solution like Hubitat)

GE makes Decora-style paddles that are tap top on, tap bottom off, and hold top/bottom for dimming; they're Zwave and work with Alexa ... if you have the 2.0 with smart home hub. They need a neutral, however.

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch (also Zwave Plus and Zigbee options)

GE and Lutron also make ceiling fan controls that match their light switch products.

That kit looks pretty good, though I haven't used it. From my own experience, I would recommend a couple of optional upgrades to be thrown in. First, a brass wire type soldering iron cleaner. The sponge on stations like these is fine, but it's much easier to clean with the brass type mid-project. There are cheaper versions available, but my experience is all with the Hakko. Second, I've never had luck with those wire cutters. I've had much more luck with strippers that give separate holes for each gauge. Here's a cheap one and here's the Hakko pair I have.

Like I said, these are optional as the kit comes with basic solutions for both of these tools, but maybe something to think about for the future.

I personally use the Stanley organizer. Perfect fit for up to 8 commander decks, and two larger spaces for anything you need. All the compartments are rearrangeable and no cards fall through because the lid seals tightly.

I suppose you could make it fit 7 commanders, and remove the 2 big compartments and 1 small one, and it might be able to fit a playmat. But i just carry the case+my backpack with my trade binder and playmat.

Best of all its super cheap, and super sturdy.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495426718&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley%2Bcase&th=1

Totally worth the money:
A drill that will actually drill holes. I bought a POS drill (50 bucks) and it had no power to it. I finally dropped 250 on this and well worth every penny:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DG7SYYI
If you're doing any type of wood working and you want to join peices of wood securely and have it look nice look into the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J43A7W
I also purchased this guy to help clean up the massive extension cable that I have in my garage. Totally worth it as well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005A1K1
Also invest in a good pair of safety glasses and dust mask.

Various tutorials are available on this website; I've included the one about welding parts together that would be most relevant to a beginner:

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/how-to-glue-parts-together/


Model Recommendations:

Airfix Zero, or a Spitfire Mk.22.

They both are new tool kits, cheap, should fit well, and have simple paint schemes. I have built the Mk.22 and the Spitfire PR XIX below; both fit very well and require minimal filling.

Don't pick camo paint jobs; pick something simple thats one to three colors with straight lines for color demarcations.

http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A02017-Supermarine-Spitfire-Military/dp/B0021L9BNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416699&sr=8-1&keywords=spitfire+PRXIX

http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A01005-Mitsubishi-Model-Building/dp/B0055ANHD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416717&sr=8-1&keywords=airfix+zero

Basic materials:

X-acto knife
Brushable paint, e.g. like Model Master Acrylic.
Wide, medium, and fine detail brush (I recommend golden talkon brushes you get at art stores for quite cheap) Like say, 1/4 inch wide brush, a smaller brush, and then a fine detail brush, maybe 1/0 or 5/0 brush for fine detail work. (The total of that shouldn't come out to more than 10 dollars at most.)
Liquid cement:(See tutorial here)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2clHW2UN0w

The idea is to weld it together with the solvent and then shave off the excess so you don't need to fill the seams.

Decal setting solution (a simple bottle of microsol will generally be adequate)

Tweezers.

A spray can of primer (it can be like krylon, probably).

If you're wanting to get fancy, a sprue cutter:

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416917&sr=8-1&keywords=sprue+cutter

Other tips:

Brushes that come in "starter packs" generally suck, as does the paint.



PS: Don't buy "packages" of tools offered by model retailers until you google the price of each component separately. Those tool packages are often made of cheap junk that are lumped together and then sold at a premium.

The bare minimum (assuming you don't have a good, SHARP pocketknife) is liquid cement, and then a starter kit that includes paint, and three paintbrushes (of the widths I mentioned), and wet and dry sandpaper from the hardware store (try for 800 grit or higher).

Oh. And patience. Lots of it.

Seems to be lots of multi comments this time!

Here's my option though, https://www.amazon.com/Zebralight-H53c-Headlamp-Neutral-White/dp/B071ZTPLPD/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=h53c+zebralight&qid=1568655530&s=gateway&sr=8-1

As for less frequent or lower prize value. My thought would be less frequent. When I first joined they were every few months which was amazing. Frequent enough they new people would happen across them, not so frequent as to (hopefully) bankrupt you. I can imagine the big sub 10k ones wont keep going as big as some of the previous ones. I'd rather see great giveaways at every 25k than mediocre ones at 10k.

Of course having said all of that, any giveaway is amazing and the community should be incredibly thankful. (and they seem to be). It's a great place here and you shouldn't feel like you have to do it to keep it what it is.

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00

• Kreg pocket hole jig -- $40 to make carpentry projects super easy.
  
• Rivnut tool -- for mounting things to sheet metal.
  
• Shop towels -- more versatile paper towels.
  
• good cooler -- ice last 5-8 days even in the middle of summer heat.
  
• bug nets for windows -- but them pre-made or build your own. Gives you airflow in summer without letting the bugs in.
  
• candle lantern -- cheap. Safe if you blow it out before crawling into bed. Nice soft lighting to give you a break from blue LEDs.
  
• Aeropress coffee maker -- great coffee where ever you are. Quick and easy to clean.
  
• mechanic gloves -- for when you've got to do work and don't want super greasy hands and bloody knuckles.

Honestly, this is a shitty thing to have to do. You should make it as easy for yourself as possible. Get something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449263583&sr=8-1&keywords=respirator

The active charcoal filters actually take away a lot of the smell while the particle filters make sure there's no danger from aerosol particles (can be an issue if noro or rota are involved and also if you're dealing with rodent droppings). I have one like that (different brand) and it's well worth the money. Much more effective and more comfortable than the standard dust masks. Plus, it looks badass.

OK so my favorite accessory is, by far, the garage door opener and sensor system. It closes my door automatically at night if I forget and leave it open, and sends me notifications when it's left open during the day. Plus as I have the lights controlled, it turns on my main garage lights when I come home at night. https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

Secondly, I know it's not a switch but I also love the Schlage connect lock. This was the first "smart" device I ever got, well before I had Wink. It's amazing as with remote start cars, and this, I now never have to touch my keys, and it works great for letting people in with temporary codes when you're on vacation. Plus when I go for a run I don't have to carry my keys. It integrates fantastically with Wink letting you set codes, lock door, change settings, etc. I actually only bought the Wink hub because of it since I wanted an easier way to program/control it (well, that and the fact that when Quirky went under Meijer was selling the hub for $5 and the controlled power strips for $10. No lie.) https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-BE469NX-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1479481619&sr=1-2&keywords=schlage+keyless+lock

As for switches, I tend to prefer the Leviton ones as they are the cleanest looking, don't have obnoxious lights (like the GE ones) and are reasonably priced. I only have one Caseta switch, and while it works fine, I just don't know that I care for the style. (On a side note, the Caseta remotes can work for any Wink device if you set up shortcuts for the various buttons). The annoying thing with the GE switches is that you have to push up to turn it on and down to turn it off. While I know that sounds like a silly complaint since physical switches work that way, it's something you have to think about since it doesn't stay up or down, and instead is always in the middle. I have the same complaint with the separate buttons on the Caseta switches. This is another reason why I like the Leviton ones. Only one button which simply toggles the state.

Finally, all the Z-Wave switches work independently of the hub and will ALWAYS respond to your physical commands immediately, regardless of hub or no hub. They are always a physical switch first and remote second.

My comment was really targeted toward OpenHAB. If you're running Wink, I think you'd be better off getting one of these GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener. Amazon reviews are pretty solid and Home Depot was selling them for use with Wink for a while. I believe it comes with a tilt sensor, which is probably easier to use than boogering a regular door sensor on like I did. Probably a solid bet. I would have bought one of these if OpenHAB supported the z-wave barrier class.

As far as the MIMOLite... I can't tell you for sure as I run OpenHAB, but it looks like it should work according to these links: post in reddit /r/homeautomation and Amazon review

I'm using a Go Control / Nortek Controls / Linear WADWAZ-1 to sense my garage door. I snagged one of the WNK01-21KIT kits from Home Depot on sale.

I've also got a Honeywell Ademco 958 overhead door contact on my other door that should work as the door contact listed in fortrezz's diagram linked in my previous comment, if you wanted to sort of wire it.

For Wink, by the time you buy both the mimolite and the door contact (wired or z-wave) you might as well just buy the go controls device and get the benefit of secured z-wave barrier class.

Not DIY, but I use this [measurement tape] (https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=sr_1_3_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1522175438&sr=1-3&keywords=body+measurement+tape). Several brands like it on there. It allows for a MUCH easier experience than a flexible measuring tape like for sewing because you put the "peg" into the holder to make a "loop" bigger than you need, then push the button and it tightens down to fit you... then you read it! I track measurements 1x a month in MFP. Not as cheap, but user friendly.

Great! That's super helpful. Looks like as far as knives go, your best bet is to stick with knives that don't lock OR require two hands to open. Since you're a minor I'd abide by both actually, and stick to a two-hand open knife without a blade lock. Fortunately, that's fairly common on multitools that are great for EDC.

My favorite small multitool is the Leatherman Squirt PS4. A more budget-friendly alternative would be a Gerber Dime. Each of these are a fantastic EDC multitool. The Leatherman is especially capable. I use mine all the time. If those won't work for you, you can't go wrong with a Victorinox Swiss army knife and I think they're availible pretty much everywhere.

As far as a flashlight goes, I suggest one that's USB Rechargeable. That makes it really easy to recharge and always have plenty of battery. The most EDC frieldly USB rechargeable light I know of is the Streamlight Microstream USB.

I don't know if those are availible in Germany or what they cost over there, but that should give you some ideas.

thanks for the reply.
couple questions. I do have the GE fan controller on a Gen 1 hub but they show up in my Wink as a dimmer (GE brand but no model number, just 'Dimmer'), not a fan.

1. Do you suggest I remove these devices and add them again (hoping they get added a fan now?)?
   
   If I take this route how do i add this so it's identified as a fan? I see options to add a GE switch (no GE fan or GE dimmer), and there is no option for GE fan switch under the fans section.
   I believe i added my fans like this back in the day but they show as switches. What changed that would cause these to now get added as fans? Is it possible Wink had an update which now identifies these as fans rather than dimmers?
   
   Is it not possible to force HA to identify these as fans (like i do in HomeBridge)? something like:
   
   "fan_ids": [
   248563

Brass all the way. This one is only $10. There are other ones that are cheaper that I have used, but I like the Hakko one best. It only costs as much as a few bags of props. I "dip my tip" before every joint and I have consistent heat and a good tin. A cleaner also helps extend the life of your soldering iron tip and heating element. The problem with using a wet sponge is that it cools the tip down every time and the iron has to heat back up to temp. This probably isn't a huge deal for occasional use, but for frequent use this constant heating/cooling cycle can cause the tip to wear out prematurely. A sponge is also more prone to holding contaminants unless you are regularly swapping it out. For example, if you have some excess solder the blobs will build up in the sponge. With a brass cleaner, they will drop down to the bottom and about once a month you can pull the brass out, and empty the holder in the trash. I started out using a wet sponge, and I also noticed that my tip didn't seem to get as clean as when I switched over to the brass cleaner.

For the majority of people just doing the occasional build I don't think there is anything wrong with a wet sponge. But if you are doing a lot of other electronics work or building / repairing more frequently, it's a good idea to get a cleaner.

Ok. Keeping in mind that I'm US-based, I'm linking to US-based sites. Everything should be available through UK/European sites as well, I just don't know them as well(I'm assuming you're UK/European-based due to the currency). I'm also not including BBs into the initial cost, as I consider those to be a consumable item and tend to factor those into cost-of-play per day of playing.

Gun: I like this G&G Raider Shorty. $150. Alternatively, This CYMA AK is a good option as well, and comes in at $128.

Battery Charger: This is what I use $33

Battery: This one should fit both the Raider and the AK. Important note: If you're using lipos, and the gun is stock, you'll need to use a 7.4v lipo. The 11.1vs are going to shred your wiring. $13

Lipo Sack: You'll need one for charging your batteries $7

As an alternative, Amazon has a package deal for $40

Eye Protection: I like these Pyramex i-Force goggles $16

Face Protection: One Tigris makes this mask $16

Magazines: AK style Mag for $10/each or AR-style for $12/each. I'd recommend getting one extra for starters, and then get more as time and budget allow.

Belt: My normal choice would put you out of your budget, so there's this one that I've never used before that's normally $9, or there's this one from Condor that's $15.

Pouches: It's gonna depend on which rifle you choose, but there's this AK-style that's normally $9 or this AR-style also normally $9.

Almost forgot, barrel cover: It's generally considered good etiquette to have one of these on your gun when not in-play, and mot fields here in the US require them when not on an active field $2

Total Cost for AR-style: $254USD bundling where possible(you could save a little by not getting the belt for now. If you normally wear a belt, just attach the mag pouch to that belt. That'll bring the cost not on-sale to $245USD). Total Cost for AK-style: $230USD, also bundling where possible.

Personally, I'm more of a fan of ARs, but I'd go the AK route and spend the extra $$ on either a third magazine, or an extra battery.

As I'm thinking about it, a second important note on lipo batteries: charge them with the small white connector on the battery, NOT the one that connects to your gun. It might explode if you try to do that.

Hope this helps you out.

For those interested;

• Fenix E05
  
• Leatherman Squirt(pliers version)
  
• Spyderco Tenacious
  
• Paracord keychain
  
  Got everything for about $100. I really love the Leatherman, who knew something so small could have such great quality standards, it feels so solid. The Fenix is crazy small and light, couldn't believe it. Finally the Tenacious is a great knife for under $50, also great build quality and man is the clip tight, that thing isn't going anywhere.

You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.

EDIT: The first thing you want to do, as in do this right now, is find the serial numbers of your bikes and record that information. This will be critical in the event that your bike is stolen.

*****

So for starters, you'll probably want two locks. A big, heavy U-bolt, as well as a cable/chain lock that you can put through the wheels. Ideally the cable/chain would have its own lock. Avoid those integrated rotary locks; they are shit. Here's an interesting guide testing the safety of a few popular models.

1. Pick the right thing to lock to. This seems obvious but a lot of people screw it up anyway. If you can lift your locked bike off of it, don't lock it there. (example 1, example 2.) Avoid street signs for this reason. Also, check to make sure that the object you're locking to is secured to the ground. Sometimes thieves will lay traps that look like good places to lock, but then they just pluck the trap off the ground and take the bike with them to remove the lock later. (example 1, example 2.) Other times, thieves will saw through a rack and then hide the gap with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Always put your strongest lock through the frame. Your wheels are removable and much less valuable than the rest of your bicycle put together.
   
   
3. Always lock your wheels. Ideally you can put your U-lock through the frame as well as one of the wheels. That's particularly a good idea because it eats up empty space within the lock, which makes the lock harder to break or cut without breaking or cutting your bicycle. But even then, you'll have an unlocked wheel. Use your secondary lock to go through that wheel. If possible, also put your secondary lock through the frame and also lock it to the object you're locking to.
   
   
4. Have your bike exposed for as little time as possible. If you can have your bike inside, do so. For one thing, this prevents damage to your drivetrain if it rains. For another, your bike won't be stolen. I use something like this to store my bikes in my apartment.
   
   The theme of locking your bike is to make it too much of a bother to deal with. You can't make it impossible for your bike to be stolen, but you can make it hard enough that nobody will care. This framework also means it's a good idea to never leave a super-expensive bike unoccupied, ever. Your bikes look fine for general commuting/locking, though.

I hooked one of these up to an in wall AC unit in a townhome I rented and when I moved out 3 years later the AC unit was still fine despite the thousands of abrupt power cuts. I say do it. Even if it makes the compressor go out after 5 years instead of 10, you’ll have enjoyed those 5 years of your life in more comfort, and you can then buy an AC unit with smarts built in to replace it. https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=thermostat+plug&qid=1564867841&s=gateway&sr=8-3

edit: I also have used smart switches and those work fine as well, but I found that AC units can be too much for some smart switches. My Wemo Insight handled every AC unit I tried fine, but my Eve smart plug would just shut off when my more powerful unit would turn on full blast.

This is kind of ghetto, but i use something like this. I run an extension cable into my fridge, then plug that into the extension cord (which is inside the fridge), then plug the fridge into that thing. Once the temp goes over what i set, it turns on the fridge until the temp is acceptible - so if you're looking to add a heating aspect to it i'd recommend another avenue. There are love controllers, PIDs, and some greenhouse stores have other types of temp controllers like the style i use but have an outlet for heat and an outlet for cooling.

It looks like a monster but it's functional... The black cable is the fridge's plug, which is plugged into the controller, which is plugged into the blue extension cord.

• Blue Cerulean Zippo
  
• Taste-T-Picks mint-flavored toothpicks
  
• Blue Fisher Space Pen
  
• Streamlight Microstream (coating worn off where it rubs against my knife)
  
• new Spyderco Manix 2 in S110v - I linked the image to BBS, but you can actually find it cheaper on BladeHQ and Knifecenter.
  
• new +B Victorinox Castaway SAK in Blue Alox - Link is just the newsletter because it isn't available in the webstore.
  
• Leatherman Skeletool CX - I love this tool. I've purchased 4 or 5 of them and given them away to friends and family because I love it so much. I'd recommend to anyone. The blade on this thing is amazing.
  
• Burt's Bees chapstick
  
• Car/Jeep/House keys, Blue anodized WTF tool (Wrench-That-Fits), Blue Leatherman PS4, and iTP A3 EOS upgraded all attached by lobster clasps on Copper Corter Bottlehook and keyring.
  
  EDIT: Added links to everything and corrected some details.
  EDIT_2: Grammar.

Yes. DeWalt makes very nice routers and this is a very reasonable mid-size model. I'm going to give two other recommendations, though.

For mid-sized routers, you can't go wrong with the Bosh 1617EVSPK. It is a solid workhorse and wins more than a few comparison tests: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/

Honestly, though, I'd skip a mid-size router if I was getting my first router. The new compacts are extremely versatile and I find myself reaching for mine most of the time. It's gotten to the point that I use my router table for router table type stuff and my compact for everything else. My mid-size just sits there, except for rare occasions.

The best compact router I've found is the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've had it for about a year and it's been my go-to router ever since: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049ZFUK2/

If you're trying to keep burning fat, you absolutely need to keep that deficit. If you're lifting, keep it up. If you're not, start, even with just resistance bands. Also keep moving. Walk a lot. And get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y or get a soft fabric tape measure and write down your measurements. A stall is a month or more with no change in ANY physical measurement. IIRC Jimmy Moore once went 10 weeks with no weight loss, but he lost 6 inches at his waist at the same time, back when he first did Atkins.

At this point it's really good to stay focused on the process and on how well you feel. The external rewards aren't going to come as fast, so enjoy your steak and butter, and celebrate every tiny gain.

i'm gonna go with what everyone else says: get a decent temp adjusting iron. it makes a world of a difference...add to that a small chisel tip (usually not provided on a cheap pen iron)...such much easier and enjoyable soldering. though, its not worth spending 80-300 dollars on a soldering iron for one project..

i use/recommend:

• an x-tronic station/iron $90 sponge+light/magnifier+tips+replacement heat element
  
  
• a hakko soldering tip cleaner $10
  
  also another good affordable iron:
  
  
• hakko fx-888 station/iron $90 sponge+cleaner
  
  everyone says weller...and its because they dropped the money on one and want other people to do the same haha...if you have the money, sure go for it. if not, many stations in the 80-100 range are excellent quality to begin on.
  
  also get a helping hand, tweezers, needle nose pliers, snips, and maybe a wire stripper.

Well then, I should have recommended the Leatherman Squirt PS4. It cuts, it clamps, it files, it turns screws. It fits on your keychain AND has a bottle opener. It's a bit more expensive but a LOT more versatile!

It's only as long as a key (but about three-four key widths thick). Still small enough to disappear into a change pocket in your favorite jeans, or fits neatly onto your typical lanyard.

I love the shit outta mine, and it's a crafty little bugger!

• Definitely a good light! This is the one I use. Attaches to my badge and has a clip to attach to my scrub pocket. Really great light and I use it ever hour of every day.
  
• A cheap(ish) digital watch. I wear a rubber Timex Ironman which is great (and easy to clean if needed). A must have...and I previously hated wearing watches.
  
• phone with lots of apps: I regularly use Micromedex, EMRA apps, UpToDate, MedCalX, Journal Club, Evernote
  
• a box of pens that you like
  
• trauma shears, cheap ones.
  
• My program bought me custom cargo scrubs. VERY helpful.
  
• A small/nice notebook for tracking patient encounters and procedures.
  
• your program should buy you an EMRA/AAEM membership which will provide you with the antibiotic guide (SOOO helpful) and they will/should buy you either Rosens/Tintinalli.
  
• I personally bought a panoptic because we see quite a bit of patients with eye complaints and I get a great view and can actually say I did a fundoscopic exam (helped me diagnose pseudotumor once)...but definitely optional!
  
• a tablet. I love reading on my tablet. I also keep my references on it (because my hospital basically blocks everything that isn't the intranet...even google!!). But optional, not necessary.
  
• Also, not things to buy, but I have quick cards on the back of my badge for common hospital telephone numbers (lab, radiology reading room, etc.) and a quick card with RSI drug dosages. That's very helpful.

The Z-Wave system is designed for interoperability, with management by a local hub that reaches out to the cloud as necessary. Hence there are many manufacturers, competitive pricing, interchangeable components, flexible control modalities. Also, a huge range of sensors, modules, controllers, locks, remote controls, and thermostats in addition to switches.

Wi-Fi smart devices are focused on ease of installation. Without standardized interfaces, the only way to offer remote control is through cloud management. Configuration and automation could be provided through a switch-hosted web server, but since the whole point is remote control and Echo/GH integration - and since the manufacturer has an eye on your data and your possible future income stream - the cloud solution wins. Wi-Fi power requirements means that in general these devices must be hardwired.

Non-cloud Kasa support requires an always-on computer running node.js, with manual device installation and static IP addresses everywhere. This is only an issue if TP-Link abandons the product or starts charging, in which case you have to decide whether it's worth the hassle...

I have a bunch of GE/Jasco switches and dimmers and one each of Leviton and Evolve - and also door/window sensors, motion sensors, thermostat, door lock, lamp modules, remotes, wall controllers, and garage door sensor.

The switches are all pretty much indistinguishable. GE/Jasco and HomeSeer 3-ways require a proprietary companion switch but you can dim from the companion and up always=on, down=off. Zooz and Inovelli 3-ways use your existing remote switch but no remote dimming and remote setting is random.

I feel your pain. If I were in your shoes I’d sure as hell want to bring my bike into my apartment too.

I’ve got two bikes I switch between regularly, and recently got this from Amazon. It’s right against the wall just inside my apartment, so I can hang them up and take them down easily just as I’m coming and going.

Don’t worry about hanging your bike by the rim of a wheel. Unless your frame is made out of ultra dense material from a collapsed star and weighs a ton you’ll be fine. I wouldn’t discount a pulley system with the ceiling, even if it’s tall either. Installation would certainly be a pain, but worth it once you got it done. I’ve seen some innovative setups on YouTube, you can look there for some inspiration and brainstorming. It’s also possible you could make something just to fit your needs in a DIY project. Before I bought my rack I was contemplating following some instructions online to make one myself out of $50 or so of PVC pipe or wood from a hardware store. Good luck with whatever you choose.

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

• Jumpers, though it's since been recommended to me that I just use solid-core 22 AWG wire so I bought this wire kit and these automatic strippers
  
• Breadboards, both self-adhesive and solderable, and maybe some mini ones of each type.
  
• LEDs (RGB and single-color)
  
• A good selection of potentiometers and trimpots, both slide and radial, plus knobs for them if applicable
  
• More buttons of varying types, both clicky and quiet momentary ones (here's a quiet button that's nice)
  
• A good multimeter and maybe some extra probes
  
• Some power supplies, both 12v and 5v. Here's one that's supposed to do both simultaneously, but you'll need a molex plug (which Sparkfun inexplicably doesn't carry) unless you want to strip the end. You might also want some barrel jacks, and this cheap extension cable provides the male end.
  
• A variable power supply would probably also be very useful, but I haven't yet invested in one of those so I can't make a recommendation at this time.
  
• A good selection of resistors
  
• Alligator test clips, plus some with pigtails for prototyping on a breadboard with components that won't fit in those little holes
  
• Some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun that you should only use on the lowest setting for this purpose. When selecting heat shrink tubing, pay attention to it's shrink ratio and what size it'll end up being when you're done.
  
• A soldering kit and some solder. Note that all solders aren't created equal but the one I linked is supposed to be decent.
  
• If you get into larger gauge soldering (for home or automotive wiring), a propane torch will be handy, but you can get something like that for $20 with a propane tank at your local hardware store
  
• Some project boxes

Flashlight my dude, you won't be able to go back after carrying one.

Going by the rest of the stuff you carry i'd say a small AAA light that you can either attach to your keys or clip inside a pocket.

A couple of recommendations:

To clip on to keys: The Olight i3 EOS. 1xAAA 90 lumens, 45min runtime. Simple twist on/off, one mode, plenty bright for most daily stuff. If you want something multi-mode still good for your keys, the Thrunite Ti3 and Lumintop AAA Tool are honourable mentions too.

To clip to your pocket: The Streamlight Microstream. 1xAAA 45 lumens, 2.5hr runtime. Solid pocket clip and push-button that lends itself to be a really good momentary light but can be clicked on for continuous use. Really solid light, inexpensive, Tried and trusted by a lot of the EDC community. Honourable mention goes to the Streamlight Stylus Pro. Almost the exact same light but longer. 2xAAA, 90 lumens, 6 hour runtime if you don't mind the weight of an extra AAA on you.

The 3 things you need are:

• something to cut the pieces off the sprue -- an exacto knife will work, but flush cutters are easier to work with.
  
• an adhesive -- super glue works, but plastic cement is better.
  
• something to remove sprue nubs/mold lines from the plastic -- an exacto knife can work again here, but I prefer needle files. Much harder to make an error than when using a knife.
  
  That's pretty much it. If you want to dive in really deep I have a massive post that lists other tools and touches on a lot of customization that people have done. But none of that's mandatory, you can very easily forge ahead with just the 3 tools I linked above.

This watch is a fun (for eight year olds), practical, and very affordable Christmas present. This costs more but looks pretty slick and is automatically set to atomic clocks via radio, which is pretty damn cool when you're eight.

This Leatherman is a little pricey for what it is but little boys love multi-tools, Leathermans are great multi-tools, and it comes with a pointless knife (as in, there's no sharp tip) that you install yourself, in case you don't trust your child with knives (I may or may not have a scar from using my Leatherman Micra in a really stupid way when I was 10) or your kid will definitely take it everywhere, including their school which has a zero-tolerance/thought policy on pointy objects. (If you have no problems with knives, the Squirt would be my first choice for a mini-multitool.)

This book is pricey for a single book but I had the old version as a kid and it's still one of my all time favorite books. Highly recommend, for a kid interested in technology.

There's not a lot of options that will support the switch/ fan combo. If you are running hue bulbs, you can just remove the light switch completely. Then use this:
New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K7HMAbVE4DSXS

It will require a z- wave hub, but if you have one already, it will give you smart control of the fan, and with the lights in the always on position you will just use your smart controls for those as well.

Hey OP depending on how much cash you got/What you want to make I can recommend you get this router here.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484624879&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+router

It has sufficient power to handle most bits and has a super convenient height adjustment that can be used over the table with a hex key. It also comes with two bases (plunge and fixed) so you can just yank it out whenever you need it and not have to unscrew it.

Now if you want something that will handle anything you throw at it you can get one of those 3 1/4 HP monsters which will handle every massive 3 1/2 inch raised panel bits with ease.

Some good routers are:

https://www.amazon.com/Triton-TRA001-Precision-Plunge-Router/dp/B00779ND0Q/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625229&sr=1-4&keywords=triton+router

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7518-Speedmatic-5-Speed-Router/dp/B0000222V3/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625371&sr=1-1&keywords=porter+cable+3+hp

OR if you got the cash you can buy Festools best router:

https://www.amazon.com/Festool-574354-EB-Router-2200-Watts/dp/B0079XHISS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625654&sr=1-2&keywords=festool+router

As far as insert plates are concerned Kreg makes the for several routers our you can get them from the manufactures of the router themselves.

From the pictures it looks like you are wearing a simple mask like this Home Dust Mask. If you have another project involving tile or dust like it, or a friend has such a project you should wear a better mask. One like this one would work, and this one would work even better and be more versatile.

On a side note, I bet the dust got to the refrigerator's compressor.

The filter mask is probably good for a start. Some people recommend masks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00004Z4EB

I built a kind of mostly-effective spray booth thing from 2x2s and plastic sheeting with an exhaust fan, but I think my fan is too small to be very useful so mostly it just protects my table. A respirator mask should be good enough, though, and I'll probably pick one up soon myself.

Thanks as always for all the work you do for this hobby and for these great giveaways. Honestly, given the rate of subscriptions, a rarer 5k or 10k subscriber giveaway would be more significant and let people try out fancier flashlights if they win.

This time around, I’d like to try for the Zebralight H53c headlamp

As far as light bulbs, there are lots of places to start. If you want to replace bulbs themselves, look at LIFX or Hue. They both offer either color or white bulbs and an API that lets you dim/adjust color/etc via your phone.

Alternatively you can replace your light switches with ZWave switches (about $40ea) that you can hook to a ZWave controller (ZWave is a wireless protocol that a lot of HA devices use. Zigbee is another).

As far as a ZWave controller, I still personally like SmartThings ... although there are other options. OpenHAB+Aeon ZWave USB stick is more of a 'roll your own' setup. Wink, Abode, and Vera are other options.


As for your garage, once you have SmartThings or another option listed above, this will do the rest of the work for you:
http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

For #3, Sonos is the most expensive but best option.

For #5, You can go Nest, Ecobee, or a number of the great ZWave thermostats if you have a Zwave controller.

Definitely a Microstream, best bang for your buck and plenty of light for most of what a keychain light is needed for.

If you want a twisty switch, though, I really love my Maratac AAA. Been going on 2 years now and kicking hard as ever. HOWEVER, since they raised their prices, I don't find them to be as much of a bargain as they were. The only Maratac light I'd spring for would be one of the specialty ones (like their newly introduced brass version, or the copper one - especially now that they've finally updated them to Rev.3).

I'd probably personally go for something like the Thrunite Ti3 if my Maratac ever dies. About the same price (a little cheaper actually) as what I paid for the Maratac when I bought it, and my buddy loved his til he lost it. http://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Ti3-Max120-Lumens-Flashlight/dp/B00LUO028U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426784161&sr=8-2&keywords=thrunite+ti

I have the Broadlink RM-3 mini and I'll be honest, if I had spent more than the $15-ish that I did, I'd be really upset with myself. Granted, I used it to control other devices (a TV, surround sound, and split AC), but it was very... Touchy.

In my bedroom, however, I used this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV

It'll eliminate the need for the IR blaster, and will allow you to control the lights separate of the fan--and vice versa (although, if the fan is "off" and you turn it "on," the lights come on too, so you then have to turn those off via your [Alexa, Siri, Google] if you don't want them on). Fairly easy to install; took me less than 20 minutes.

If that's too much, maybe the Harmony Logitech remote? I've heard good things about them, and they seem to work with everything.

You definitely want to get a soldering station. So something that can control the temperature of the of the iron. The reason being is the ones that just plug into the wall usually fluctuate between extremely hot and very hot which can become if you’re trying to solder next to very delicate transistors on the pcb.


I know people say you can get away with the cheapest everything but that’s usually not the case at all and sometimes dangerous to your health.


Getting good solder, tip tinner, brass sponge, flux pen, and a fan with a carbon filter will do you great things.


The fan is extremely important when your desoldering as that will give off a tonne of chemicals.


This is what I personally have


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BSW69LI/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074J6R1KQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001W2XZOS/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPGDLA/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NS4J6BY/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The soldering iron is overkill if you’re just using it for trains

I really like my Hakko FX888D, as I like having the digital control of temperature, and it comes with a copper cleaning sponge, but that's minor -- they're similarly priced. If you're going with the Weller, you'll want to add some flux-impregnanted copper cleaning sponge and holder like this one from Hakko for 10 bucks. Nothing cleans tips better in use. Blob on a bit of solder, mash it in there for a second, tin a bit more fresh solder on, good to go.

I also have that Kester reel, and I love the stuff.

EDIT: Also, no helping hands? No ESD mat? Sure, it might put you over 150, but man are those things useful... They should be on the list for an "I want to get serious about soldering" kit.

There is no 2 device single gang zwave switch on the market at the moment. Most people here either:

• expand the box to be a double gang box and then install a z-wave switch for the lights example, and a z-wave switch for the fan. example It's dimmable (3 speeds)
  
  
• Put a single zwave switch in the wall for the lights, and then put a remote dimmer unit for the fan that hides in the electrical box above the ceiling fan. This limits control to an app, voice with google home/alexa, or getting some sort of zwave multi button scene control to stick on the wall.
  
  
• A modification of the previous. Put remote dimmer/switch for BOTH the light and the fan in the electrical box above the fan (may not fit) and then put a zwave scene controller in the original single gang box switch location.
  
  I was fortunate to have double gang boxes in my house, so I was able to use the seperate GE light and fan switches. Both work well.

I already had a few pieces around, but here is my estimate:

• Primary = 13
  
• Stopper = 1.50
  
• Tube = already had it. Can't imagine it's over 10
  
• Themostat = 35 plus shipping. Amazon link .
  
• Desk Fan = 19
  
• Tall Boy = 3 for 3
  
  I actually had the wine cooler from the early 2000's. I worked backroom at Target, and it went on clearance, but they didn't move it to the floor. It kept dropping in price as it was on clearance longer and longer until it was $20. Grabbed it, and have used it as a minifridge since.
  
  A quick look at craigslist looks like you can pick on like mine up for 150-200. The glass front is nice. If you just want a minifride, looks like they're 50-100.

Thanks for this. In their FAQ, they say that the hardware already has everything for HomeKit compatibility, but they're just working on the software, which will get pushed out as an update in Q1 2017.

I was hoping for something more in the $40 price range. Just a simple thermometer with IFTTT or HomeKit support. But at least now I know there are options out there for $180. The next closest I found was Mother which is $300. For that price, I might as well get a better a/c unit with a built-in thermostat.

I also discovered this outlet thermostat for only $37. It doesn't connect to HomeKit or IFTTT but it does do exactly what I was wanting. The only problem is that the placement of my outlet is not the ideal place for a temperature probe, because it's buried under my bed where there's not much air flow. If only this had an extension for the temperature probe, so I could place it on the other side of the room, it could work great.

It's this tooless wiring cap type of jack, like this: the third picture. I installed a couple of them just this last summer and now they don't seem to be available pretty much everywhere anymore. I found that they are easier to get loose connections on than punch-down patch panels, but I believe I came up with a best practice for them. I suggest you re-terminate to your standard TIA-EIA 568 A or B and use a needle-nose pliers to really get the conductors firmly into their grooves in the connector with a gentle pull. Then after turning the twist part of the wiring cap making sure it is fully turned and cannot turn any more use a flush cutter to trim the excess wire extruding past the edges flush so it's less likely to have connectivity issues from physical contact.

Best bang for your buck starter guns will be the G&G CM16 ($180 CAD with free shipping) and the G&G CM16 Raider ($200 CAD) if you think he'll want to put attachments on it in the future.

For eye protection you can get him the Pyramex I-force goggles ($25 CAD off of Amazon) or the Pyramex V2G-XP (also $25 CAD on Amazon), that'll come down to personal preference on which style he prefers. For face protection the OneTigris foldable face mesh ($23 off of Amazon) allows the user to look down the sights well while still offering proper protection.

What I've listed above is probably the simplest and most economical beginner setup for Airsoft up here in Canada. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask!

And don't forget to check out my list of Canadian Airsoft Retailers to compare prices and see what's close to you!

^^^^^^This ^^^^^^was ^^^^^^good ^^^^^^practice ^^^^^^for ^^^^^^the ^^^^^^airsoftbot ^^^^^^response...

Here's what I would do...

Buy a respirator

Turn off the water to the house. Drain the pipes as best you can.

Rip out the tub and the tub walls, including the faucet and handles on the tub. Throw them away.

Clean up any mold you find now that the tun and walls are out. Soap & water and a brush will do.

If there is any wood work that's falling apart from water damage/mold, you may need to get help... It'll unfortunately cost more than you have, but the alternative is for the house to fall down. Hopefully it's not too bad.

Buy one of these and one of these and a few tubes of silicone bathtub sealant.

Now, you'll need some help putting the tub in if you've never done it before. Possible someone here is local and can lend a hand.

It'll end up costing about $800-$1000 - I tried to get you as close to $600 as I can...

Pyramex I-Force or V2G-XPs are great. I own a pair of both and love them.

If you're a fan of your teeth a mesh mask is definitely a good thing to get, especially if you're fighting in CQB at all. I recommend the Striker V1 from Evike or the OneTigris ones.

highly recommend for these $15 goggles. amazon link

I have run them two days so far, and am in love with them. They are ANSI Z87+, comfy, and fit under my hat. ymmv with the anti-fog but i treat the lenses before i play and so far haven't been fogged out of a game.

first day with the new goggles I took a bb to the right lens from a player with a notoriously hot HPA set up from only about 25 feet and the lens was totally unmarked. it splashed sweat and dial soap off the lens into my eye which made it look like i had pinkeye, but that's a personal problem.

to be fair, I am one of the sweatiest people on the internet so my issues with fogging and sweat may not be relatable.

I was previously running some smith optics boogie goggles that looked very cool but would fog so bad I had to leave the field mid game more than once and those damn things were about $50. now i feel like i found my goggles.

lastly, just buy smaller gloves? is that an insensitive suggestion? i wear gloves in size small if that makes you feel better.

inb4 trump and or dick jokes.

EDIT: fixed link

Astrolux S1 / BLF A6

H03 is about $20 more on Amazon but prime shipping

ThruNite TN12

ATACTICAL A1 550 lm Pocket-Sized LED Torch Super Bright LED Flashlight, Black

I'd order a battery from mtnelectronics.com or illumn.com


The H03 is really small compared to most 18650 lights. Way easier to carry.

Sorry for being so late, but if you have Z-Wave in your automation already, then Z-Wave garage door openers are under $100, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491329589&sr=8-1&keywords=ZWave+garage+door+opener. Is the one I have, it has sensors that tell you if it is open or closed, and then you can use your phone (via z-wave controller) to close/open it. Works well for me. With my z-wave controller (Vera), I have it setup to notify me if I am not home and the door is opened, or left open.

There is also various WiFi options, which also allow you to control it, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-MYQ-G0201-MyQ-Garage-Controls-Smartphone/dp/B00EAD65UW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491329677&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+garage+door+opener. No personal experience with those, but if they support your opener, are probably a good option.

If DIY is more your thing, a Arduino and a simple switch on the track somewhere would work for notifying if it is open.

I like the GE Z-wave smart dimmer paddle. I've installed 4 of them and 2 add-on switches for the three way switches. No issues so far, they were easy to install, the videos they have on YouTube are very easy to follow. I set up a price alert on amazon for these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LQFHN2/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and nabbed them when they got down to $33 each, which is about the best price I've seen.

You're the best man, I love the h03, would be great to have a second one to keep in the car at all times. Neutral white, in case the link isn't right.


Skilhunt 1000Lumens 18650 Headlamp EDC Flashlight Waterproof Cree LED Headlight for Outdoor Sports Hands-free Camping Light Brightness Flood Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LEOL3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-cFhAbJEGFJB0

Looks like you got an even cheaper iron that looks very similar, but wanted to mention I just got this soldering iron and I'm very happy with it.

Also, I got some soldering wick, which I much prefer to the solder-sucker. My mind was blown by how much easier my life got with solder wick.

I also got one of these, which is nice.

I bought one of these in 2010 and another in 2017; the first one is still working fine. It's worked great for basic troubleshooting and measurements. I've used it for power consumption measuring and it seemed accurate enough. I've used them a lot, but none of it requires super accurate readings and I haven't had a single issue. If you buy one I can't guarantee the same experience, but they've been great for me.

Currently $18.80 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/