Awesome! I have a bit of experience with backpacking and the best things to have in addition to carrying things on bikes.

Backpack: Anything Kelty, but even better is to read reviews by people doing what you are and trying the backpack out in person with weight. Put a 40 weight in it and walk around the store for a half hour. They make quality packs that are comfortable and cheaper than some of the others. They aren't on this list but it gives you a good idea of what to look for in a pack. For biking you want to make sure that it is stable and that the load is distributed or can be manipulated so that it works with your body in the biking position as well as the hiking position. As far as capacity goes, it really depends on the size of the equipment you're taking, food, etc. You will want a smaller pack for biking that has lots of areas to attach bungie cords to hold your camp mat/tent/ anything else. The one you posted is too big.

http://10rate.com/best-backpacks-reviews/

For biking you NEED a rack and panniers. Not only do they provide more storage space, but they take vital weight off of your body and its high center of gravity. It is far better to have the weight on your bike than your back. They also make trips safer, easier, and more enjoyable. It is important to have mobility in your entire body while biking.

For constant moving during the summer there is no better way to sleep than in a hammock with a tarp. PRO TIP: use winch straps/tow straps to hang your hammock by connecting the ends of your hammock to high strength parachute cord. Have a climbing carabiner attached to the tow straps with two metal rings clipped in. The tow strap goes around the tree, meets the carabiner and makes a loop that will not fall due to friction with the tree as well as your weight pulling the tow line against it. The parachute cord is then strung through the metal rings on the biner to form a weight bearing, adjustable attachment point that involves no knots. Then you string your mosquito net over the top and attach your tarp to the biners/tow line, the result is this. Extremely comfortable, simple, and easy to take down, light weight and takes up very little space in a pack.

For a sleeping bag: small, light, down. A good hiking bag will pack to the size of an american football. In addition, a space blanket is a life saver, both literally and for nights that chill to the bone.

Other supplies that you need to have that are not the obvious ones like a first aid kit or a bike repair kit and duct tape.

• Ceramic hand filter
  
  
• A thousand year stove.
  
  
• a good mess kit
  
  
• big black garbage bags for general waterproofing
  
  
• A waterproof, LED head lamp
  
  If you have any questions or need any more advice I'll be happy to help.

Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...

I guess I can repost my own post:

I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.

I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.

>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.

>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?

No you don't need a full size floor jack.

If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.

Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.

>Fix-a-flat kit

Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.

>Lights! and flares

(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)

For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.

That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.

> Screwdriver set with misc bits

Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.

> Socket set?

You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.

>Glass Breaker/ Hammer

Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...

>Fire Extinguisher

It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.

• Basic first aid kit. useful for everything. Make sure if you use it, restock it.
  
  > A little portable air compressor
  
  can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...
  
  >Roll of duct tape (because obviously).
  
  I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.
  
  >Spare fluids.
  
  Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.
  
  
  > Tire pressure gauge.
  
  To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.
  
  > Jumper cables.
  
  Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.
  
  > A tow strap
  
  is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.
  
  
  > Tire chains.
  
  Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.
  
  > A shaker siphon
  
  Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.

If its a Wrangler and you have decent tires - ie Semi Aggressive All Terrains or Light Truck Tires and 31+ inches, I wouldn't even bother unless you really feel a lot of resistance. Pure road tires, definitely air down. On my LJ I have, it's stock with 31" Semi Aggressive AT tires and I almost never aired down in the 13 years I owned it. It's seen I don't know how many beach miles up and down the east coast. There was noticeable difference when I did air down though (less throttle needed, ran cooler), but it still did fine. If you do air down, about 15-18 PSI is where you want it, much lower and you risk the tire falling off the rim.

With the new Jeep in the pic, I didn't air down at all, the 35" tires treated the beach like it wasn't there. They were at 40 PSI and I will likely never air them down for the beach again. I probably could have gotten out there in 2WD on it's current setup.

Beach driving has a lot more to do with momentum management than most other factors. Airing down just helps that little bit more. If you are in loose sand, don't stop, keep it moving at a steady pace or even give it more speed before you hit the loose sand. That's the biggest factor when I watch people get stuck. They panic and slow down instead of keeping the vehicle moving. There is a really soft and torn up section where it's a turn to get to the ocean front and it's where everyone gets stuck cause they take it too slow and stop the car in the horribly loose sand, I pull people out of there all the time.

Some other Tips

• Bring a Shovel - useful for digging out - mostly to help non jeep owners get out ;) - I use a surplus army one but something like this - https://www.amazon.com/SOG-Entrenching-Tool-F08-N-Folding/dp/B0038A05X6/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1494981775&sr=1-1&keywords=folding+shovel
  
• one or two 2x6 boards 2-3 feet long - useful to put in front of tires to provide traction and lift the Jeep if you bog in the sand - also if you need to jack the Jeep for any reason it provides a platform. - Acquired at any Hardware store
  
• If you start to get stuck and are throwing sand/digging yourself in - STOP - Get out and assess your predicament. It's a lot easier to stick the boards in front of the tires when you aren't in sand up to your chassis. The deeper you go, the more sand YOU have to move out of the way.
  
• No winch would be needed, a tow strap is fine - I have spent summers with my tow strap pulling people out of the sand with the stock tow hooks on the front and back - https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Heavy-Duty-Tow-Strap/dp/B000I60HV8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494981378&sr=8-5&keywords=tow+strap - $22 and great piece of mind - I don't use any metal hooks or d rings, it works fine without them for the beach
  
• If it's somewhat popular beach and you do get stuck, most any other Jeep owner would help you out. I do it all summer long for anyone I see stuck. It's actually a lot of fun to help recover vehicles and to see the look on peoples faces when they are relieved about what they are going to do. Don't be embarrassed about it, own it and learn from it, gotta get better somehow.
  
• Wash the undercarriage when you are done. The salt and sand will quickly rot you out.
  
  Trust me, it's not too difficult. Keep your momentum, if you do start to get stuck, don't make it worse, get out and use your tools to get you out or ask for help.
  
  Good luck! If you have other questions, id be glad to answer, PM me :) I expect to see pics!
  

Normally trail riders want easy access to these tow points. Yes, they absolutely can be used, but standard OEM mounts are a hassle.

Generally if they aren't easy to see and get to on the trail without climbing under a rig, the average cable puller will not consider them tow points, and some trail leaders might not let you go on a trail without purpose installed after market hooks. Usually vehicles only have one front and rear tow point and you need two front and two rear for safety and convenience. Hooks are considered basic off road items.

However, all this depends on how you plan to use it off road. Are you wanting to trail it, or camp, light excursions?

They are cheap and easy to install and can be tucked under the bumper if you like. Just bolt them to the frame, don't weld them there. Welds will generally fail before bolts because lets face it, you will be "snatched" more than pulled if you are stuck and not high-centered.

Get at least one (or two) good tow rope(s) and attach it before you go out and just toss the free end in your window, or on your roof. This way when you get stuck, you can climb out and just toss the rope to the rig in front of you and your are out in a jiffy. This will really go a long way to good karma on a trail if you aren't asking others to come get you, or slowing down the others because you unhook after every pull. You will end up using your rope 4x more than a winch anyway unless you are alone on a trail.

Any wheeling will be horrible on gas milage, but if you want to be tidy and keep your rig looking clean, I have seen more than a few people use hitch-mounted winch mounts with handles and only have the winch there when wheeling. And you can toss it in the back and lock it up when your not using it as a daily driver.

Installing a tow hitch in the front and rear to move a winch from front to back as you need is not perfect, but it is very acceptable when done safely, so you get two-for-one winching. Make sure you take good measurements, or have one custom made, or even just go to your local 4x4 shop and get them to help you with the measurements. Never significantly cut/alter an OEM hitch for obvious reasons.

A secondary benefit to a tow hitch on both ends is you can use it as a tow point instead/in addition to tow points and move this around as needed also.

As far as a winch, you don't need a 18k monster, but enough to tug yourself out. General rules are 2-3x your vehicles weight. On a trail, most often if you are in a caravan, a good trail leader will put you sandwiched between two experienced trailers, so about 1/2 the time you will just pull rope to the rig in front and use it as your anchor. So weight shouldn't be a big issue.

Also get a snatch block and a tree saver so you can pull yourself out if you need to. This way you don't harm the tree, but still use it to get yourself out.

1. tires
   
2. tow points (however you want) and ropes
   
3. winch
   
4. lift?
   
   But first, tires.
   
   Ask anyone that has been on a trail, MT tires (not AT's) should be your first investment. You can get a really good MT that will last a very long time as daily use if you do not get an overly aggressive tread. And they look badass.

I'm going to copy my post from the main HK sub to here, so hopefully more people see it:

Tow straps, anyone?

I've always wondered what would happen if you hooked up a 2"x20' tow strap while these vehicles were stopped or moving slowly past a roadside tree. These straps usually have an ultimate break strength of 17,000 lbs, so there's no way they're getting away if caught at a standstill and the strap is attached to something springy, like a tree.

Some of these riot vehicles still have their stock recovery points, but attaching a strap to the cage armor they use on their water cannon/UNIMOG trucks would do a helluva' lot of damage if they were to drive away.

Alternatively, with a large enough tow strap, like a 6"x30' tied to concrete blocks or something or parked vehicles or something, you could effectively trap one of these riot trucks and/or block off a street. The strap can hold 60,000lbs, and a significantly heavy weight at the end would absorb the energy of an impact well.

It's like how they stop the AT-AT's in Star Wars... but with offroad recovery straps!

The HK Police's UNIMOG has some weak points as well. A tow strap could be attached to anything circled in yellow, and a tree, or some other heavy object on the side of the road. If the snorkel circled in red could somehow be blocked, the engine would receive no oxygen and stall. Due to the purpose of a snorkel (water fording) it makes sense that this is the only air intake for the engine.

Alternatively...

...you could always climb on top like this dude in Chile! High risk, high reward though. With a crowbar, you could likely break into some access panels. If not, a battery-powered angle grinder would definitely do the job.

Additionally, there are two access hatches on each side. I don't know what's in there, but a Moltov thrown in there would have good ventilation to combust, but it would be difficult to put out because of the louvered shutters. You'd be effectively using their own design against them.

Some other important points...

• The tactical vehicle (?) is a Mercedes UNIMOG 437.
  
• The water cannon trucks are likely Mercedes Actros 4/New Actros
  
• The HK Police's UNIMOG uses Michelin XZL/X-Force tires. These are tough but NOT run flat. A large enough puncture and they would deflate beyond a point where the central tire inflation system could NOT maintain pressure.
  
• Not sure what tires the water cannon vehicles use, but likely similar tires.
  
• However, these tires may include run-flat addons.
  
• It may be possible to throw a fishing net over the watercannons, which would entangle them and prevent them from moving. If two people approached the vehicle from either side with a net attached to tall poles, and laid the net over the watercannons, this might work. Best to weigh down each corner of the net with a brick.
  
• Putting sugar or salt in a gas or diesel tank will NOT BE EFFECTIVE. Water or sand may be effective.
  
• Water may be most effective; both gasoline and diesel float on water. Enough water in a fuel tank and the engine could hydrolock or starve.
  
• Sand may clog the fuel filter, thus starving the engine.
  
• Some photos:
  
  
  • Water cannon schematics
    
  • Water cannon right/front
    
  • Water cannon left/rear/partial interior
    
  • Water cannon front closeup
    
  • Water cannon chassis/drivetrain (best I could fine was a scale model of the MB Actros).
    
  • UNIMOG left/front
    
  • UNIMOG snorkel closeup
    
  • UNIMOG drivetrain
    
    Hopefully some of you find this helpful. Trying to do what I can from halfway across the world! Stay strong, Hong Kong!

First item isn't recovery, but it is the number one item I always recommend. I've been in the position to need a fire extinguisher when one wasn't available. Vehicle was a total loss and it was a long walk out of the woods.

https://www.amazon.com/21006287MTL-Kidde-Automotive-Extinguisher-Disposable/dp/B077KGCD6Z/

For recovery gear, there are several nice kits that make a great start.

https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-15104-28-000lb-Recovery/dp/B00426HZXS

Then I'd get a trail jack

https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-2722-Universal-Trail-Jack/dp/B001CF3JFA

Finally, yes, the kinetic ropes are GREAT. But I'd first have a winch as it is much more versatile. Rope:

https://www.amazon.com/Bubba-Rope-176680RDG-Breaking-Strength/dp/B007HYR85W

Well...here's all the stuff I bought on my Amazon list lately. Does that help?

AUKEY 1080p Dash Cam
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072FGL63X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Black Off Road Scene Easy Fit Mud Guard
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NIJS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Car Travel Inflatable Mattress
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7MZ3YO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Xprite Amber 240 LED Roof Top Mini Flashing Strobe Light
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091XUAY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Smoke Tint Slim Wind Deflector
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00335FH4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pet Dog Seat Belt Leash
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719R1YNZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

30 Ft. Polyester Tow Strap
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5RMPT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hood tie-Down Loops
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRBXQUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seat Cover for Pets
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHC02EY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Silicone Wedding Ring For Men (For the radio knobs)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD31K4P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Tacoma Center Console Tray
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KI3WG1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Tacoma Center Console Organizer
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZB4VZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Car Seat Covers
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBLOR88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Husky Liners Front Floor Liners
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019YS22MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Annnnnnnnnnd I'm just now seeing you were talking about the 2nd Gen...

Get a set of something like these
http://www.amazon.com/Soft-Loops-Tie-Down-Straps/dp/B002MYLB1Y

Or if you want to go a little more expensive get a Canyon Dancer II - the one with the bar end cups.

Those webbing figure-8s make easier attachment points for your straps, and you run less risk of scratches etc from the hooks of your straps.

If you want to put a bit more cash out - get a Baxley chock. I've had one for years and it was a great purchase. Handy for working on the bike, solid parking or dropped into a trailer. Just set it against the front wall of that U-haul and roll the bike right into it - and tie down at your leisure. No balance work or 2nd set of hands needed.
http://www.baxleycompanies.com/Chocks.html

Other than just taking some energy out, it will also change the direction of the hook/"whatever is still attached to strap" towards not straight at you or the other driver-it has killed people.

For pulling someone out, always use a recovery strap, or this can happen:

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/fire/reports/face200622.html

http://www.4x4training.com/Articles/DeadlyMistakes/DontLoseYourHead.html

NEVER USE THIS KIND OF STRAP: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Heavy-Duty-Strap-Hook/dp/B000IAIP72/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396559247&sr=1-1

If it slides off or breaks, it will go through the back windshield, your head, and the front windshield, like they weren't even there.

Buy a recovery strap and hook it into your hitch like this: http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/46283968+w600+re0/129-1307-01%2Blow-buck-liberation-getting-unstuck%2Btow-strap-in-hitch-pin

Use a properly rated D-ring/Shackle that is specifically rated for loads, and more importantly--IS RATED FOR A HIGHER LOAD THAN YOUR STRAP. You never, ever want to have the shackle be the point of failure, or it turns into a missile.

It is better to walk home after getting stuck than to get carried to the morgue. Remember-Stay safe, stay alive.

Yeah dude heres a link

https://www.amazon.com/Sparco-01612RS-Red-Tow-Strap/dp/B00BG423YA

You could modify the screw plug that hides the tow thread to have like a letter box cut out in it so the strap comes out nicely instead of a huge hole and a piece of rope hanging out of it haha

I think only the off road/pro4x have tow points in the front to pull from, but even then I would rather pull from the hitch or fit aftermarket recovery points. There are some for sale in thenewx.org marketplace, and some plans on how to make them there. I ran across some 1/2 thick angle iron and plan to make some, but haven't had time yet.

recovery strap
https://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB705-2-3-Recovery-Strap/dp/B004P9DQLC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510170669&sr=8-1&keywords=arb+recovery+strap

Tow strap
https://www.amazon.com/Tow-Strap-Reflective-Emergency-Reinforced/dp/B071FMW8FP/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510170716&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=tow+strap&psc=1

Kinetic rope
https://www.amazon.com/Bubba-Rope-176655BKG-Renegade-20/dp/B00BZZB6OS/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510170750&sr=1-4&keywords=kinetic+rope

All are a little different, but similar. I can't really tell you what to use. You may want to check out youtube channels like Ronny dahl that explain the differences in recovery gear. Just try not to get the ones with the hooks, i've used them but they are more likely to become a projectile than one with a proper end and a d ring

When you really get down to it, a shovel is the #1 item. Spade for dirt, flat for snow. After that, a recovery strap and shackles:
https://www.amazon.com/Tons-Recovery-Strap-Off-Road-Towing/dp/B01MQ2O8QV/
Then traction mats like this: https://www.amazon.com/TRED-PRO-Recovery-Extraction-OFF-ROAD/dp/B01LX9X40T/
A hi lift jack with an off-road base plate is a great tool: https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-HL484-Black-Steel/dp/B00042KG3A/
Then a winch. :)

We decided just to go for jet skis. If I cant lift myself back up on the jetski if I fall off can I just use this and where could i safely attach to my buddies jetski so he could tow me and the jetski to the shore so I can hop back on? any advice greatly appreciated. don't want to be stranded out in the water... or attach a tow rope to somewhere it might break or snap something off..

https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Strap-Hooks-Towing-Recovery/dp/B00L5RMPT6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496949517&sr=8-3&keywords=tow+rope

First, something like this is better for Amazon so you can see reviews and what not.

Seems like there are things you don't need like gloves and stuff. When I get the cash, I'm simply going to start out with this strap and these shackles from Amazon. Input from others appreciated.

I have one of these in every vehicle I own This is the best price you will find anywhere, these straps stretch (intentionally) and the stretch actually helps you get unstuck. If you break one, nobody gets hurt.

Edit:here is a good example of a chain snap video

Another idea that just came to me. To get around the rope stretching issue, instead of rope I could just use regular old-fashioned metal chain like this from the hardware store. I'd use two locking carabiners on both ends and attach it to the best chain link I can to can the highest tension. On the wall would either be the Jungle Gym Hangers I mentioned earlier or the wall attachment you'd use for an indoor hammock.

Then in the middle, I could simply attach a third locking carabiner and that would be my anchor point for the rope.

I do.

I have a Blue Ox Swaypro hitch that I have added the Straptek kit to. Hooking up takes a minute or 2, no jacking required. The Straptek kit can be used on other similar WDH types too. The kit just replaces the chains on the spring bars and the latches on the trailer frame. Here's how I do it:

• Lower the trailer tongue on to my ball and latch.
  
• Insert spring bars into hitch.
  
• Hook Straptek straps to the spring bars.
  
• Use a ratchet to tighten the straps to bring the spring bars to the correct height.
  
  It makes a big difference on how we travel. Now I'm far more likely to unhook and go exploring when we're just stopping for the night. A side benefit is that making any adjustments to the hitch takes about 2 seconds. It's great to try out several different spring bar tensions over the course of a short trip. You can really dial the setup in easily. If you watch prices on Amazon you can sometimes pick up the Straptek for less than half price. It's currently $121 right now which is a good price.

a) smarties!!!! we both have them on our lists!!!

now that im looking we have a lot in common on our lists same protein powder, sour patch kids. creatine. and now im going to add the bumper dumper


b) since we have a lot of the same items, im gonna try to pull things off my wishlist that you might like:

You seem to do a lot of outdoors type stuff, how about a waterproof iphone case. a recovery strap incase you ever get suck or need to pull someone out.

You must workout since you have protein powder and the like: i hear this is a great workout book.

and last but not least, a camping cot

Tanaka High Strength Racing Tow Strap (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M9YMRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fbzwCbDC1XCR4

This is the one I have, I got it for cheap on amazon just to fill the space. I know Sparco and a couple of other companies make them as well.

I've got this smittybilt which has worked great for pulling small tree stumps and did this to my gate post when I tried to drag it out.

I'd seriously reconsider pulling any stranger's cars though. If you wanna help carry jumpers, a snow shovel and a cell phone. Dont risk liability fucking up their (or your) vehicle trying to pull it.

This is the one I keep in my truck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N4U4G5S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used it to flat tow several trucks as well as pull out stuck vehicles. It's held up great.

1. OPT7 Aura 8pc bed light kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZPAOU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Suaoki 600A Peak Portable Car Jump Starter / Jumper Pack 18000mAh with Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185CYFE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Car Charger Adapter - Cigarette Lighter Adapter, 4 Port USB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J7KTBEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. 1-1/2" x 15 ft Heavy Duty Ratchet Cargo Tie Down Straps 3000 lbs Dual J-Hooks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N8LMJV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. Work light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXZWDHB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
6. VicTsing Bluetooth FM Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DDPUQTS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. 2-Pack of 3/4" Black D-ring Shackle https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013FLW8J6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
8. 3", 30' Tow strap, Recovery Strap 30,000 LB capacity https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N4U4G5S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
9. Stanley 99 piece set https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LY5AKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
10. Hand sanitizer
    
11. Bug spray
    
12. Headlamp
    
13. 2 75 pound sand bags
    
14. Jack
    
15. Blanket
    
16. Wool socks
    
17. Duct Tape
    
18. 3 pairs of goves
    
19. Two water bottles
    
20. 2 hats
    
21. zip ties
    
22. Tire plug kit
    
23. Ice scraper

I wouldn't consider it cheap. On Amazon, this is $13.22. Also on Amazon, you can get a 10,000 lb capacity tow strap for $12.99. For 27 cents more than the bottle cutter, you can get a 50,000 lb capacity tow strap for $13.49

Hmm, i'm confused how you're picturing the setup I def can see using rope but not sure the best way to do it. I don't mind spending money to have quality stuff either(esp when falling = not fun, though I'll prob make the one thing I move day to day a nice pad under me)

Edit: found these too meant to ask about them: Metal Cam Straps w/ 1 inch Flat Nylon
[Choose Your 1" FNW Color:Navy Blue][Pick Your Length:50ft.][Choose Your Metal Cam Buckle Type:Black Oxide Moto Cam Buckle][Add a Buckle Pad:No Buckle Pad] Can't link to the options I picked so included that.

So that and these: https://www.amazon.com/Saver-Winch-Strap-Pound-Capacity/dp/B00Z8R7T3Q

So where would you say rope would be better, replace both of those? and just put the rings on the rope and use knots instead of metal cam?

I have this one. Its been used a ton and is still holding up very well. I think I paid 10-12 bucks for it.

Sure.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M9YMRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_vuwuDbMRG5M8T

Exactly, I went with the 30, 000 lbs because i got a sweet deal, its smittybuilt and im no where close to that weight so its a bit of piece of mind

Here is the link!

I agree with your assessment.

Depending on what the straps are made of.. if it's a heavy duty ~20,000 lbs snatch strap there would be little risk of it breaking.

You should have four ratchet straps, and optionally some soft loop straps for tying to the bike's bars or forks, depending on the bodywork and other factors.

This one: ARB ARB705US 2-3/8" x 30' Recovery Strap - 17500 lbs Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P9DQLC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_E2ARub1BTYR2T

This it the one I got it came with the hardware took me 15 minutes https://www.amazon.com/Sparco-01612RS-Red-Tow-Strap/dp/B00BG423YA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484610025&sr=8-1&keywords=sparco+tow+strap

Sparco Tow Strap

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BG423YA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_daFgub1VK115G they're called tow straps

Maxtrax

Also D-Rings and a tow strap or snatch strap for somebody to pull you out.D-Ring Snatch Strap

You are better off using a recovery strap to pull someone who is stuck on the side of the road. If the metal hooks on the end of your tow strap fail, now you have a projectile shooting towards either your car or the other guy's car. Those straps are more for pulling someone at a constant speed on the road.

Not a 4x4. GMC 1500 Sierra. Truck got stuck, not the TT. The sand you see in the pic is nicely packed and easy driving. The sand I got stuck in was fine like flour and literally 16 inches deep. The front tires bogged down and built a barrier, which made me lose momentum. Then the rear started spinning. I was making slow progress with a shovel and traction boards. Then the ridgeline dude showed up. His power plus mine was all that was needed.

Traction control also was a problem. I forgot to turn it off. So when I started spinning the rear started bucking.

Deflating the tires would have helped but I have never had a problem at this location before (4 trips) so I just plowed through. Also, I’m a little wary of the low inflation trick. Just makes me uncomfortable.

I suggest some tools.
Shovel
Traction boards
Tow straps
Maybe tire tracks