(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best additive manufacturing products

Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.

Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.

I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...

As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.

> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.

Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.

So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.

>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.

I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.

For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.

About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.

The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.

The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.

As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.

>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.

If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.

>Definitely use the stock for a few months

A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.

>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily

Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.

>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.

Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.

As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.

>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.

I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.

As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.

Thanks for the great question! I'll answer the way my mother always answer my long emails...

• Background? My background is in actually more on the visual creative side rather than the game design side! I graduated from the Massachusetts College of Art and Design with a degree in Illustration. My thesis project was to create and illustrate an entire game on my own ("Landfall" mentioned in a couple other places in this thread). Of course I ended up focusing on (and enjoying more) designing the gameplay and player experience aspects of the game.
  
• Motivation? I really just want to design games and have people play them! If I'm lucky I'll break even on this project, haha. I've tried to keep everything as minimal and efficient as possible, to get the game to the people is my only real intent. It is incredibly satisfying when demoing the game to watch people truly enjoying something I've poured my blood, sweat, and tears into.
  
• What resources did you seek/find? I am lucky enough to have a fantastic day job to afford to keep the lights on (and the 3D printer running), and have done lots, and lots, and lots, and loooots of research. The thing they don't tell you is that when you want to get your game published through KS, its like getting a third whole new job (in addition to my day job and my board game design job). It is so in depth you can practically major in crowdfunding. I read a ton of stuff from Jamey Stegmaier, have been reading this book andthis book, and have done lots and lots of trial and error.
  
• Which resources were most helpful to you? Probably the 3D printer was one of my best investments as a tabletop game designer. It reaaaaally helps immerse the player (and myself) in the game I am creating if I can basically instantly create whatever components I want. (I purchased this affordable 3D printer and have had great success with it)
  
• What approach worked for you personally, and how is it different from other boardgame designers? This is a really good question. Board game designing isn't typically something that becomes someone's full time job. Each person who has made the leap usually starts somewhere vastly different from game designing, and I believe that gives each designer a very unique perspective to their games and the way they go about creating them. For me, those things are mostly visually creative-related. At work I do illustration, graphic design, photography, videography, video editing etc etc. So making a decent looking prototype is something that I was able to do (mostly) on my own, and similarly making a nice game trailer and digital ads was relatively easy for me. While I had the visual components down, I differ from other designers who have different characteristics that they bring into play like business experience, industry contacts, an in depth understanding of Kickstarter (I am pretty familiar with KS, have backed a few things, but I am by no means a superbacker myself).
  
• The biggest challenge you are proud to have overcome? Even though my campaign isn't at its goal just yet, I am proud at the amount of people I have been able to spark some interest and connection with through my game when starting basically from scratch. They say to have a successful campaign you need to have at least 10,000 emails when you launch, I had about 150 (I lucked out when my game trailer ended up blowing up on Reddit about a week before launch). It was very hot in that pigeon suit I wore for 4 days straight at PAX East promoting Crumbs, and it was exhausting taking a 5 day trip to NYC and demoing the game every day, but it was so worth it. This is my first game, and for someone starting with a near zero fanbase, I am proud my game has been able to touch this many people to begin with.

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

First of all, you're going to want to update the firmware in the controller board. Creality has a history of shipping printers with older versions of Marlin that lack thermal runaway protection, which is kind of important if you value your home being not on fire. They may have already fixed this, but it's certainly something you'll want to check.

Here's a tutorial:

• Part 1 https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.all3dp.com/2/ender-3-with-marlin-how-to-install-marlin-firmware-on-your-ender-3/
  
• Part 2 https://toms3d.org/2018/09/17/update-your-3d-printer-firmware-without-a-bootloader/
  
  And here's the cheap programming adapter I used to complete the update:
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IBFMJEA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
  
  Beyond that, I printed a few upgrades for the printer itself.
  
  A fan guard to keep scrap filament from the bed from falling into the controller fan. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204
  
  A surprisingly useful tool tray to keep the various tools neat and contained https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2883898
  
  Some cable chains mostly for cable management aesthetics but also to prevent damage to cabling during use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060
  
  A filament guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932
  
  Some retaining clips to keep the Teflon tube from moving around during retractions: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845931
  
  There are also tons of part cooling fan ducts to play with in order to get cleaner overhangs at various angles.
  
  It's also commonly advised to upgrade to stiffer bed springs to avoid having to relevel the bed as often, but I haven't had an issue on this front yet.
  
  Another common idea is to print on glass. But my bed came flat from the factory and I've been enjoying printing on the flexible removable build surface. And a pane of glass is more mass to sling around which may potentially cause ghosting. But if your bed does come warped, you'll want to run to the hardware store and get a few cut.
  
  I upgraded the Teflon tube to one made by Capricorn. I haven't noticed any difference in print quality, but they advertise that their special Teflon blend has better temperature Resistance which, in the absence of the all metal hotend, adds a wider safety margin for higher printing temperatures.
  
  But by far, the best upgrade was to put some cardboard shims underneath the feet of the printer. This dramatically reduced the amount of noise made by the printer.
  
  Also, if you want to upgrade to printing Zytel, you'll need an all metal hotend like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=D0IRZSZQ80PZ&keywords=ender+3+micro+swiss+hotend&qid=1556175003&s=gateway&sprefix=Ender+3+micr&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
  
  Hope this helps!

Best thing to do is get some Mirror Tiles at any Home Improvement store. Cheap and flat (who wants a wavy mirror? LOL).

Lowes in the US has them $9 for Six. I had two not flat but 4 fine. Home Depot and Ace Hardware also have them IKEA is another source.

>Athorbot adhesive mats - Those are a knockoff clone of the BuildTak mats. They're OK, but do wear out.

I went down that road last year, ended up using PEI on my printers and haven't looked back:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XLD5QH

Sticks well when warm or hot, releases almost instantly when cool.

But BEFORE any of this works your Bed needs to be flat,most machines it's NOT. (Not the glass, the Aluminium bed).

A quick check with a known straight edge (like a 24" machinist's rule) will let you see. Put it edge on with a well lit white wall or sheet of paper and check the bed, front to rear, also side to side.

Most have a dip in the center, some are raised in the center.

Unless the glass is VERY thick, it will dip when clipped to the bed.

I did a couple posts / comments about how to properly flatten the bed. It's a bit of work, but you'll do your happy dance when it's nice & flat.

Most adhesion & first layer issues are caused by an unflat and un-trammed (proper name for "leveled") bed. Probably 50-60% of the "Help Me!" posts are this!

With a properly trammed bed you don't need glue or Hairspray, or tape or other "goop" in 90% of the cases. You can actually print straight onto the glass or PEI, many do. (including MOI) Super smooth bottoms.

Here's' the posts, first, some basics:

https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/86c47m/psa_a_must_read_by_anyone_who_levels_their_bed_or/

Then follow this to tram the bed:

https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7rpq2x/can_i_simulate_a_print_without_damaging_the/

Let us know how it goes!! Trust me, it's worth the effort.

PuterPro

Improvements/add-ons

• Filament Roller Guide. You will thank yourself later to further prevent the filament from grooving an indentation where it feeds into your extruder. It utilizes bearings but its a fantastic design. I had mine for ~2 months when I started noticing the groove already being made.

• XT60 Connector clips - if you want a little "cable management"

• LCD Cable Clips - Also if you want a little "cable management". There is also an LCD Cover for the PCB to keep dust and whatnot out.

• Any fan covers you find that suit your style as you dont want filament going into the box in the bottom left (not entirely too sure what it holds).

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Physical Upgrades

• Upgrade the bed springs as my originals started to sag a little. Not exactly sure on what the technical name for those springs are but those are the ones I purchased and I have been happy with them.

• Borosilicate glass bed. I use to use the stock mat, tape method, and hairspray method. All of those worked for a little bit but were a complete pain and mess to deal with from time to time. All I do now is use some isopropyl alcohol and clean my glass bed every once in a while but past that I require NO adhesion for my bed outside of tiny pieces that require a brim, skirt or whatever support needed to keep it adhered. As long as your print bed is leveled as best as possible (have a nice filament "squish") you will have no issues.

• Some other things you could look into if you plan to print with other kinds of filament outside of PLA would be: Micro Swiss steel nozzle, Capricorn tubing and an upgraded extruder like the e3d. Keep it simple for right now though while you learn your rigs because I strongly feel no ender 3 works the same and my preference for which program (MatterHacker, Slic3r or Cura) depends on how I feel how the model appears and how its coming out. Also, grab yourself a handful of replacement nozzles if you continue to use the brass ones. They CAN wear out if you use the printer like crazy, so its always good to have spares (also can get a variety of sizes too - standard being the 0.1mm I believe?). I snagged a pack of 10 for $5-8.

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Last but not least, run a few bed level test prints as well. The best one that I have found which helps me dial in my printing was CHEPs bed level STL file. Video & G-Code file. I use it religiously if I ever find that my bed is out of wack.



There are a handful of other mods/add-ons you can find on Thingiverse and another website (one which we arent allowed to link to unfortunately).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend

all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1

heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd

print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.

these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.

oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631

that's also something you should do asap.

Hey! Welcome. I also just bought my ender 3 pro as my first printer.

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Here's a great place to start https://all3dp.com/1/20-must-creality-ender-3-upgrades-mods/

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So far I've done the following upgrades:

1: Metal Extruder. 100% necessary and MUCH easier to do during initial assembly rather than an upgrade. I got mine form Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J44QW8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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2. 2020 Filament Guide:

You can find this on Thingiverse and is about a hour long print. It actually made a noticeable different in some salmon skin issues I had in my first couple of prints.

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3. Springs:

These just arrived today so I'm not sure how much they will help but one of the main causes of my failed prints so far as been issues with leveling and some of the stock springs I can see are just no good.

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4. TL Smoother:

Another upgrade I havent had a chance to set up yet. That said, my research has come across mixed results. Some people love them and some people Hate them.

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I'm not sure about glass beds and all, the stock plate has been working pretty well for me. I think I'm going to try it alittle more before moving to a glass bed simply cause its a bit easier to maintain but it could be the next thing on my list. I've also been considering an auto-leveler (and ardunio) since it doesn't have that function and having to relevel, watch, pray, reset has already cost me a couple hours of print time.

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I'm not familiar with ESUN PLA+, I've been using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0GMMP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and am very happy with it so far.

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Best of luck with your printing!!

Seconding everything people have said here and want to add the following.
A glass bed with 10mil PEI from CS Hyde will do wonders for bed leveling.

Upgrade your Y plate as soon as possible, the stock one warps over enough time making bed leveling nearly impossible.

All metal hotend such as the micro swiss is amazing, no more clogged PTFE tubing, easier to clean if it does.

Z brace is a must, also print a fan cooler like the Diicooler on thingiverse. Replace the stock part cooling fan with a nice radial fan, plenty on amazon, make sure its 12v. This helps prints come out cleaner.

Yours should come with thumbwheels, if not, print some, bed leveling is easier with it.

Print some spring cups as well, keeps the springs straight and not bending when leveling the bed.

DO THE MOSFET MOD TO MAKE IT SAFE!

Watch this vid and do his printed mods https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q&t=752s&list=PLyIdpN_zILcknsQzSZSiWhQ685NxkWsvD&index=2

Also, stay far far FAR away from Shaxon filament! It broke my hotend, check my post history to see the red glob of death I dealt with. I have had very good luck with eSun PLA.

Links for bought parts:
Fans: [here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Glass plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Hotend: [Here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Y plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

MOSFET: [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)] and wires [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017U6PGLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

What I did was I got a nice thick borosilicate glass plate from amazon, the one with the corners cut off so it fits the bed perfectly without the heated bed bolts interfering. Then I got a sheet of PEI with 3M adhesive on the back. I cleaned the glass with alcohol and then carefully applied the PEI so there weren't any air bubbles.

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This is the glass:

https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Duplicator-Printers/dp/B07B2YLWF9/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2640M0KDOPOV&keywords=borosilicate+glass+plate&qid=1555903635&s=gateway&sprefix=borosilicate+glass+pl%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-5

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And this is the kind of PEI:

https://smile.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Preapplied-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=PEI+sheet&qid=1555903728&s=gateway&sr=8-4

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I have gone through a handful of these borosilicate sheets, and have had one or two that were warped. All of them were thinner than the Gulf Coast Robotics one. Theirs is bang on flat and way tougher, hands down the best. When you apply the PEI, make sure you do it very carefully as to not create any bubbles underneath. I started on the center of one edge and slowly applied from one side to the other, peeling the backing off as I went. Press it down from the center out as you lay it down and you shouldn't get any bubbles. Lots of very tiny bubbles are to be expected and work their way out after a while (Im talking really tiny). As for attaching the glass to the bed, a set of four binder clips are perfect. Don't bother with the thermal pads some people suggest, they make it a pain to remove the glass in between prints and don't really do anything.

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This is a great way to have a removable build surface that everything sticks to. I have since moved up to a Prusa MK3, so I get to enjoy the luxury of the magnetic PEI build plate. You could get a similar thing going, BuildTak sells a magnetic build surface that you apply to the heated bed. The drawback of this is that if your bed is warped at all, the magnetic sheet does nothing to correct it. The thick glass on the other hand makes everything nice and flat.

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I should add that to put the glass sheet on, you will have to move your z endstop switch down. There are several mounting holes on the printer to do this already so its really not that hard, you just have to experiment. The glass is about 4mm thick so you have to adjust for it.

8 bit boards are the reason prints are slow. They just can't calculate fast enough for precision. Some new affordable 32 bit boards are finally starting to show up. I'm guessing Prusa will design his own 32bit board.

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Maybe a custom E3D hotend that can produce enough heat to keep up with faster print speeds.

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I think a more polished way of doing the nylock mod will be part of the printer. I'm quite happy with the process of the nylock mod now in conjunction with the plugin that helps with the process big time.

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I'd love to see a larger print volume at the very least in the z axis. I swapped the smooth rod bearings out for these and that took an already quiet quiet printer to a whole new level of quiet and NO MORE OIL. They are impregnated with lubricant.

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I'd LOVE to see a better way to mount the whole extruder assembly to the z axis rails. You can over tighten the screws and put too much tension on the bearings (both my new ones and the stock metal ones) and restrict movement enough cause homing issues. I do my best not to ever over tighten certain screws and it still happens once in a while. I've gotten used to it but a better way to mount it would be appreciated.

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Maybe a few built in LEDs around the hotend and even a more visible nozzle end. Have the fan duct on the back side or something.

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One last thing would be a better main board housing that better handles the cables going into the bod. Maybe two entry points so securing the cables going into the box isn't so extremely tight fitting.

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Ok, one last last thing. No more tiny pieces/tiny 'appendages' on large parts that can easily break off. I know that may not be possible but why not mention it.

> Even if I manage to get it to stick right, the booger on the nozzle starts pulling up my first layer.

Yeah, you should really get a sock for the hotend. Get the one with a tiny hole for the nozzle. Really. Order a few today from Amazon. Today. For me, it's not worth trying to print PETG without a sock.

Also, one thing I do is print a skirt (not brim) that is three lines wide (or even more for a small model), 15 mm away from the model, and only 1 layer deep. Any snot left on the nozzle from the purge gets wiped off. HOWEVER, that can leave a snot blob on the skirt, and so (a) the skirt can get pulled away from the sheet, and (b) if if not, the second layer of the skirt can fail. That's why I print the skirt 15 mm away from the model, and only one layer. If you manage to get the skirt printed this way (even with blobs and the skirt loose), and have a nozzle with a sock, chances are pretty good everything else will work. This has increased my yield with PETG prints dramatically.

Of course, you need a clean bed, etc.

It's actually pretty amazing --- I sometimes get horrible looking skirts, with portions detached from the heatbed, big blobs, etc., and then a beautiful part printed inside the skirt.

The one downside is that the single layer skirt can be really hard to remove. I use a part I printed (for another purpose) that is shaped a bit like an air hockey striker --- it's a disk with a handle essentially. I just slide the striker against the skirt to break it free.

> Sorry, I'm just feeling pretty defeated at the moment. I wish mr prusa would stop by and tune up my printer for me.

Have hope! Try my method. But if it works, you have to post your print!

> Damn thing start streaming filament out as soon as the temp hits 205C.

That's super weird. Either it's wet, or your hotend thermistor is way off.

Is this happening on a filament change? I've actually had residual Hatchbox PLA filament squirt out of the nozzle when loading PETG. But after loading everything was fine.

How quickly were you printing your pieces? Some of the parts I saw in your album looked a bit on the rough side (overhangs, perhaps?). Meaning no disrespect of course, I think your projects are awesome! I have a Maker Select and I can get some really nice quality prints without going excruciatingly slow, so I was just curious.

Can I ask what mods you have on your printers? I saw one of them has the support braces, but have you experimented at all with other things? If so, how did they effect your prints?

The only mods I have done are installing an all metal hotend and printing off a new vent for the front fan. I used this one in particular (with a 40mm fan). The hotend mod on it's own significantly improved my print quality, and the vent made printing more intense overhangs a lot less messy.

Either way, those are some great builds! I love the look of the laser rifle. :)

I'm at 2,000 meters of filament printed with my Maker Select, very happy with it, some tips:

-The Maker Select V2.1 is simply a re-brand and upgrade of the Wanhao Duplicator i3. You'll see that name "i3" thrown around more than Maker select, so just be aware they are nearly synonymous


-First, definitely get the blower fan upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy two of them to have an extra in case of death


-Print out a blower fan housing for that fan: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471


The fan upgrade provides a huge improvement in print quality


-Get the all metal hot end from micro swiss: https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC


-THe "Z-Brace" mod reduces vibrations from the machines movements: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948


Some people swear by it, but the print time for those parts is roughly 20-24 hours total. In my 2,000+ meters of print, I haven't bothered because of the print time, but still bought the extra pieces in case I decide to do it.


-I've been mass printing tiles for d&d too, I looked at openforge and decided against that line, but went with TrueTiles instead. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUecWG1W-ss


Highly recommend truetiles over the other tile lines out there - the creator is a crafting genius (look him up on youtube - "wyloch"). They take less plastic, are more versatile, faster print time.


I found that Cura 15.04.x was much better than the recommended Cura 2.5.x. My setting for churning out tiles is something like 210C nozzle, 70 mm/s, 55C bed, 0.25 resolution, 0.8 shell, 10% fill, 2mm retraction, 20mm/s retract speed, 60mm/s travel speed, no brim/raft, no supports. You should print at resolution multiples of 0.04 (because of the way the filament feed gear works), ie. 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.2, etc. I'm going to switch to 0.24 resolution for tiles. I do 0.12 for small figures. The printer can reliably print resolution 0.08 right out of the box (lower the speed to ~35 mm/s) but takes a long time to print.

-The black material on the heated bed is call Buildtak - be careful not to puncture it with the supplied putty knife. Get some blunt tools such as https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-you don't need any tape, glue stick, hair spray, for buildtak

-Be sure not to use any acetone or alcohol on Buildtak - both will ruin it.

-Apparently you don't really even need to heat the bed with buildtak, the stuff is super effect with first layer adhesion running at room temp. I ruined my original buildtak by using the supplied putty knife to remove a print that was so super stuck to the bed because I kept it heated. Doesn't hurt to keep it heated though, but be aware heat + buildtak = much adhesion

-That slight lip on the butterfly's bottom layer is due to the settings of first layers being laid down slightly thicker than the others. Sometimes called "elephant's foot" it can also be caused by the nozzle being too close to the bed, which will smush those initial layers more than needed. Closer nozzle = more smushed first layer = better adhesion, but with buildtak you can get away with keeping the nozzle further away, and adjusting your cura settings for a first layer thickness equal to the rest of the print

Ah, well, part of this difference in perspective may be the career path I had -- I've been doing custom electronics off and on for the past 20 years, and a larger number of the electronics design projects I work on are self-contained devices. A different realm than industrial applications. (I also used to do IT/Networking -- in that world, everything was networking gear, servers, and storage devices.)

In some cases, when I talk about real-time, I'm talking about timing relationships that are measured in ones or tens of nanoseconds. The PLC specs I've seen so far talk about cycles times of hundreds of microseconds -- which clearly wouldn't work for those applications requiring sub-microsecond timing. Of course, not everything I do is like that. In fact, most of the work are fine for PLC cycle timescales.

At the start of my career, I worked on a "crane game" arcade machine which would have been trivial to do with a PLC had I known about them then.

It's just that I've spent most of time at a different end of the spectrum than you, I think, and I'm now trying to get a better grasp and understanding of the PLC world.

BTW, I'd love to hear about your background and the path you took to get to working with what you use.

Also, could you point me to where I can read about some of the more "high-grade" systems that you mentioned? I'd really like to learn about them. TIA!

It's an interesting point you make about "selling lots of machines". I can see how if you are selling industrial equipment, using PLC's as building blocks would be the more appropriate approach.

A 3D printer is, in many ways, similar to such an industrial machine in complexity. The most popular forms of building printers today is to use a printer controller built around the Arduino platform (or, more correctly, the Microchip/Atmel Atmega family processors that are used in Arduino). We're talking about a controller board that typically runs 3 PID temperature control loops, 5 axes of motion control, communication with a host computer, reading (and occasionally writing) data to an SD card, running a control panel with LEDs, a graphical LCD, audio, and user inputs, and incorporating the motor driver -- for $35, delivered from Amazon (just to grab the first example I found). By my estimate, at least several tens of thousands of those are sold every year now.

Would I want to run an actual industrial machine with that board? Heck no! :) (They are known fire-starters in some cases, and most of the cheap boards lack hardening that you find in superior devices.)

Pretty new to 3d printing but really interested. I basically just want to print stuff that people post and probably dabble in designing my own stuff. I am a technical guy, but I know that the designing of the models is pretty tough. I have sifted through the comments and saw two printers that stood out to me within the range I was thinking of. The CR-10 and the Prusa i3. I don't know which version is good for the CR-10 and I'm looking in the $400 range, but could go up to $800 if you guys think my value would be best there. Here are other printers I was looking at and not sure how everyone feels about those. If anyone can give me some feedback about them it'll help immensely in my decision.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8NM6JO/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3MX1XJ2F9XGZ7&colid=30UBVRH3KC9LH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07421SR9J/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3SEAHNKKLM0QY&colid=30UBVRH3KC9LH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016R9E7J2/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I205Z5A0OGO6ZD&colid=30UBVRH3KC9LH

You are good, no worries!

I got this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9JFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe it's genuine, but if not I can at least attest to its validity. Literally ZERO issues over the past year and a half. Prints beautifully.

If you prefer getting it straight from them, here's ya boy:

https://e3d-online.com/v6-all-metal-hotend?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoKzsBRC5ARIsAITcwXHo8yYQOrXG0QXg0n_A2hYDcjYz5T8NXcjrL9MagUbDfNrqgSl04vEaAmc5EALw_wcB

It fits right into the carriage of the old one where it clamps around the heatsink and you put the fan on the front, just like the original.

Two big changes with this.

First:

The new wires it comes with are great, but sadly not the same plastic connectors on the end that fit into the motherboard down in the printer, so I chopped off the old ones and swapped them over to one end of the new wires, so they could be plugged in.

I never soldered before getting this printer, but, as I like to stay... "YOU GON' Learn Ta-day!"

Leave enough old wire there for error (or I did at least, for shrink wrap or electrical tape to more than cover the solder point). The convenience of doing this is the other end of the wires leave connectors right near the hotend for the thermistor and the fan which can be disconnected for any reason you need in the future. (its also a negative I found later- as its a flex point on the wire, my thermistor wore out there due to the constant movement and I replaced it for just 8 bucks. However, this is where those quick connectors near the hotend paid off though, because zero soldering required. I snagged a few extras for longevity.

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Secondly:

Once it is installed you'll notice it doesn't stick down as far, and when you go to "Home" location, you can't get lower to reach the bed.

If I was home I would snag a picture.. but basically I got longer bed screws (4), 4 spacers (1/4 inch I think?) and incorporated the same springs on top of the spacers (with the longer screws through them). I just took an original screw into a hardware store, found longer versions and spacers that looked like these below:

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Spacer-3ZMA8?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Products_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLARECS&cm_vc=IDPPLARECS

You'll need spacers OR new longer springs... your call. Pain in the butt to put it together but once screwed in, works like a charm with the same functionality as it did prior, just higher up where the new hotend can reach it.

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Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or concerns.

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

I had this happen on mine. Scrape it off the best you can and use Goo-Gone to purge the remaining adhesive. Once you have a clean metal bed, painters tape works great and is cheap and easy to replace. If you are feeling up to it, you can install a glass bed on top of the metal like I did, just make sure to level the bed right if you do because the glass adds extra space. Then use a purple glue stick for some extra adhesion if you need it!

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Here is the link to the bed I am using, and I am completely satisfied so far -> https://www.amazon.com/Borosilicate-Polished-Corners-Monoprice-Select/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549203064&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=monoprice+mini+v2+glass+bed

Paying someone to do the full set will definitely run you more than the cost of this printer. It's the printer I have. It's a bit finnicky, but the price is right, and it prints well enough for me! I'd also highly recommend getting a glass bed for it. It's stupid easy to install the glass bed (you just lower the normal bed and clip the glass to it with binder clips), and it makes the prints come loose soooo much easier. You can also have a hardware store cut the glass for you and it will be a bit cheaper than that Amazon link.

I will say, though: I only recommend buying a 3D printer if you're willing to devote some time to it. It's not like an InkJet where you plug it in and it just works. It takes calibration, and learning which settings work best. You'll have to do some research to get the best quality for your prints.

Thanks! I got my carriage plate from Amazon, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS

The buildtak that came on it was awesome for about 40 days or so of print time. No issues at all, everything stuck real nice but popped off easily with a woodworking chisel. Eventually it started to wear smooth, and the plate it's attached to started to warp pretty bad in the middle. That's when I switched to glass + gluestick. btw I put my glass right on top of the old buildtak rather than try to remove it because it was really stuck on there.

As for the carriage plate, things were good for around 70 days, but eventually what happened was the original plate bent up in the corners so bad that I wasn't able to keep the bed level for more than a single print, and then suddenly I couldn't level anything at all. Since installing the carriage plate, I haven't leveled it again yet.

I'm going to suck it up and print that dii cooler too lol. Might have a friend do my first one since he has awesome cooling already.

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

Couple of thoughts -

• Preheat the bed to the print temp before leveling. On my MSP, the bed rises considerably depending on whether it's hot or cold.
  
• When leveling, use printer paper. Business cards are too thick, you really want that nozzle close to the bed so it's smooshing that first layer down.
  
• Preheat the bed for several minutes before starting the print
  
  Also, it will cost you some money but replacing the Y carriage and adding a good glass plate help too. I'll edit this in a sec with the links.
  
  Edit!
  
  Glass bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9
  Y-carriage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS
  
  I originally was using thermal pads between the glass and the print surface. Eventually I found I had better results by skipping the pads, peeling off the print surface, and putting the glass directly on the metal bed with small binder clips on the left and right edges. I use Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion and rough it up with a sanding block between prints. Make sure your Y axis rods are level, as well.
  
  Good luck!
  
  

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

I'm pretty sure companies would love the idea of giving out free copies of CAD software, they can get CSR credits and can get future designers hooked while they are in the cradle. 3d printers are not that expensive anymore. I have seen cheap models for around a 1000 $.

Edit: I would recommend getting in touch with AutoDesk or Dassault (solidworks) directly. If they seem to be dragging their feet. There is a cloud based CAD system called OnShape, all you need their is an account, which if you register as a student they let you do it for free afaik.

Edit 2: Here are the three options I mentioned. Solidworks in my experience is clearly more advanced and can do a whole lot more, but their student registration process seems to be more opaque (at a glance). OnShape would need internet but they seem to be more welcoming of students.

1. http://www.solidworks.com/sw/education/6903_ENU_HTML.htm
   
   
2. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/students-teachers-educators?td=aexfusion
   
   
3. https://www.onshape.com/edu
   
   Edit 3 : Here is a cheap 3d printer I found on Amazon US, it seems there are plenty more in this price range.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-3D-Printers-New-Model/dp/B016R9E7J2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521359741&sr=8-3&keywords=3d+printer

Here is my CR-10S.

I added the Petsfang fan fang. Added this fan to the fang.

I added these Z-Axis braces. Added these LEDs to the Z-Braces.

I'm printing on a mirror tile with a sheet of PEI bonded to it.

Last week I added the TH3D EZABL and have been encouraged by the results. It creates a Z-offset map of the build plate before every print. I can see the Z-steppers move during X-Y moves so I can tell it's working. Manual bed-leveling was working OK for smaller prints, but I could never get all 4 corners to agree with the center height. I suspect my aluminum bed plate is shaped like a Pringles chip.
I really like the Marlin Firmware over the OEM version. I don't mind not having auto-resume since I plugged my printer into a UPS system.

Right now my printer is about 20 hours into a 60-hour print of a T-Rex skull. I've been really happy with this printer! It was my first and I've been having a ball with it.

Borosilicate Glass Bed is absolutely worth it. Even when you wait for your bed to cool after printing (you should) you'll struggle removing parts with Ender 3 print surface. With that borosilicate glass, you'll get a perfectly flat surface that will release parts easily after cooling.

The line down the left hand side is now defaulted in the Cura 3.5.x printer profile. You can modify the start and end gcode under Settings > Printer > Manage Printer. The cura folks adapted it from another person who posted it on Youtube and then modified it to improve it a bit. For instance it now starts both bed and the element at the same time.

Finally, Cura 3.5.1, while supposedly fixing the Ender 3 Printer Profile, is still pretty shakey. It doesn't seem to render good gcode. I've switched back to 3.4.1... more of a PSA than resposne to your question.

The build plate on the Ender is made of aluminum and is infamous for warping under heat, or just being slightly bent out of the box. Whereas a glass bed sits on top of the aluminum build plate.

Most people use glass for the smooth surface, but many Ender owners choose one simply because it provides a level printing surface. Often people will even put the print mat that comes stock on top of the glass, giving them the adhesion benefits of the mat, with the level benefits of the glass.

Some will tell you that a mirror or similar piece of hardware store glass will work fine, but it is known to shatter due to the heating and cooling process. For about $20 on Amazon, an actual Creality borosilicate plate is well worth the cost. (on Amazon )

Extruder: get a microswiss hotend for it will be able to print flexible and other materials.
Parts cooling: Upgrade to the petsfang 5015 mod for better print cooling.
Auto bed leveling: Get the TH3D ezabl sensor for great bed leveling.
Other mods: motor dampers to reduce noise and vibration
To smoothers to smooth prints
Raspberry pi for octoprint
All metal extruder
Capricorn tubing
Hope I could help 😀
Links:
micro swiss hotend
petsfang part
ezabl sensor
motor dampers
tl smoothers
octoprint link
all metal extuder
capricorn tubing



Also this is what my petsfang with sensor looks like. https://i.imgur.com/sQahB69.jpg

HATCHBOX 1.75mm White PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs) - Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GMMP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EBHPCb8CJ9QV2
Its only $20 and you could crank out a lot of minis at high quality. I'm not familiar with other printers other then my monoprice mini v2. So i can't attest to the quality/price. If you're interested in just minis for now then i would honestly get: Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer V2 - Black with Heated (120 x 120 x 120 mm) Build Plate, Fully Assembled + Free Sample PLA Filament and MicroSD Card Preloaded with Printable 3D Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZLSMFT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nFHPCb6W5JNDZ

Its print ready right out of the box and user friendly. Lots of mods to do and lots of youtube videos to guide you along the way, a great beginner's 3d printer. Plus it doesn't break the bank.

Did you print using the generic filament they give you? I also just purchased this printer and printed the same thing but I used Hatchbox filament and it printed perfect. I wish I had a better answer but I'm also new to printing. If you haven't ordered one of these yet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C3HEQZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 order it right meow well worth the $$ and a glass bed will make your print bottoms butter smooth https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQ5Q3BI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No problem, stuff happens. Anyway, if you want the bed to be totally static, it's rare you see that outside of delta designs. Typically the bed moves on the Z axis with CoreXY machines, just because I'm pretty sure moving the whole gantry would be a pretty strenuous process for the motor. The only kind of cartesian machine I can think of right now where all of the movement is done on the axes is a design by Printrbot meant to make an effectively infinitely extendable monstrous printer, called the Big E, so perhaps you could look to that for inspiration?


As for your electronics, I'd say start with a basic RAMPS board. I bought this recently, and it seems solid. I can't vouch for its quality yet as I've yet to actually use it. Given the sheer size of a machine you want to build, I'd think you might want to look into NEMA23s, though, and those require a beefier board, so I'm not sure where you'd begin to look for something like that. I think your best bet right now is to make a new post, to get some visibility.

The pei sheet I got from amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074XLD5QH/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) didn’t have the adhesive pre-applied, it was just smooth on both sides with a thin film over it for protection, and a 3m double sided tape was included in the package. If yours has adhesive already on it, I’m not sure about the temp limit on the film, but suspect you’re right that it isn’t very high.

I had been thinking about just clipping it on before it arrived, but it was thin and flexible enough that I’m pretty sure it would get pulled up slightly by larger prints. I had considered just buying a 1cm thick sheet from McMaster Carr or somewhere rather than one being marketed for 3D printing, I think you could definitely clip that since it would be rigid, but I was concerned if it didn’t show up perfectly flat I wouldn’t be able to do anything about it.

I watched a few videos before putting it on, and it was actually easier than I expected. Even though it has some flex to it, it’s ridged enough that there wasn’t really any issues with bubbles under the pei sheet itself. The adhesive bubbled a little when I put it on the glass, but it wasn’t very hard to either work them out, or in a few cases just poke them with an xacto. The hardest part was actually removing the plastic from the top of the adhesive without peeling the whole thing off the glass, but once done the pei went on nicely. If you’ve seen them mounted before, it’s normal for it to look kind of mottled with some visible pockets of air, but still be flat with no significant bubbles. I checked for flatness and it was good. I will take a picture later and update this so you can see what I mean.

I’m jealous of your 2 backups, I have been afraid to print anything but PLA and be unable to get it off. I ended up with the pei because I kept destroying various stick on surfaces by squishing the first layer of PETG too much and ending up with it welded on.

I was originally going to buy an ender 3 as my first 3d printer. I have zero experience but after lurking here a bit I thought I knew what to buy. However amazon currently has some good deals on some of these printers. so my options are now:

Ender 3: $229.99

Monoprice Maker Select v2: 239.99

Ender 3 pro : $259.99

Monosprice Maker Select Plus: $289.99

​

I'm sort of leaning toward the Maker Select v2. But having no experience I'm hoping you guys will know better. I don't think building an Ender kit would be an issue, but for my first one I think Monoprices may be easier. I'm mostly looking to start with some minis and maybe randon little knick-knack type things. Although I think this may be something I get really into down the line, so as long as they're versatile I will probably build anything and everything I can :-p

these are the bushings that most people talk about for this printer. Igus doesn't make sleeved bushings that can fit as a drop-in replacement for the LM8UU bearings. IIRC last time I did the research, I found they do sell sleeved bushings that will fit in the Prusa (as in they have the correct outer diameter and length), but not with the correct inner diameter needed for the stock smooth rods. So if you went that route you'd need to not only get new bushings across the board, but you'd also need new rods everywhere too, and that pushed the cost up to about $75 when I last looked.

Honestly for the price I'm not really upset that I tried them, but I absolutely learned to just stick with stock unless it's giving me major issues.

Getting the y axis to move smoothly was a challenge, as the stock u-bolts would squeeze it vertically and leave wiggle room horizontally, which would allow the plate to cock sideways a bit and bind. With some finagling I was able to get it working, but there was a lot more resistance than I would have liked, it was consistent resistance across the whole range of movement, but it was still more than I wanted. The X axis I never got them fully working, as ANY force parallel to the smooth rods (but slightly offset in one direction) would cause binding by cocking the x carriage one way or another.



But don't let me be all doom and gloom, if someone is able to get them working and can talk about their experience, I'd love to hear! And I'm sure there are people out there who value the silence they provide over some unreliability or increased maintenance/tuning required, but I was overall unhappy with them and I won't try it again.

Country: USA

Budget: $400-$500

ok so I had the Monoprice Maker Select and it just conked out on me. So I'm looking to get a replacement but my budget is limited as I didn't expect to have to replace it. I know for a fact I want something easier to level. I hated leveling the bed. SO far I have it narrowed down to a few choices:

Flashforge Finder - Pros: Guided Leveling. Cons: Small build area.

Da Vinci Mini - Pros: Super cheap, Auto-Leveling. Cons: SMall build area (though slightly larger than the flashforge.)

Da Vinci Pro - Pros: Guided Leveling, Large build area, can use multiple different types of filaments. Cons: None that I can see.

PowerSpec 3D Pro 2 - Pros: Dual extrusion, Fully enclosed, medium sized build area, good with flexible filament. Cons: Manual Leveling. I don't know anything about this one, only that it is a rebranded Flashforge Creator Pro.

Before I make the purchase I would like to get some opinions from some people that have or had these printers. If you know of a better suggestion feel free to post it. If you have reasons why these are crap, etc.

Hotend replacement:
I replaced the stock hotend/PTFE tube setup with an all-metal Micro Swiss hotend ($50):Amazon link to the Micro Swiss all-metal hotend kit: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bed leveling:

1. Most importantly, I purchased a glass bed to eliminate the never-really-level printbed.Amazon link to the borosilicate glass bed ($25): https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHG5HCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Since that didn't I completely fix the warped bed issue, I also replaced the aluminum Y-carriage underneath with a thicker, stronger carriage and my bed leveling is now perfect. I still re-level before every print just in case, and now never have leveling-related problems.Amazon link to the aluminum Y-carriage ($28): https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Frame Stabilization:
   I printed the parts, and purchased the hardware at Home Depot for the Z-brace mod, which stabilized the printer frame:Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631(note the original Thingiverse link in comments, which is required for the other Z-brace parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948)
   
   Cooling:
   I printed a Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471

I struggled with adhesion for the first couple weeks of printing. Then I swapped my stock bed for a glass + PEI combo. Got the flatness of the glass + the adhesion of the PEI. Once the plate cools down a few degrees, the parts come right off. No need for sticky hairspray to get things to stick, and no need to put the bed in the freezer to get things to unstick. Best upgrade I’ve made on my ender 3 (~$30 total). Always wipe down with isopropyl alcohol in between prints for best adhesion.

Tip: I also recommend gently wet sanding the PEI. Helps with adhesion and creates a very nice matte finish on the first layer.

Glass Bed:
Nearly Natural 4855 35in.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Idk about $180, but you can definitely save a bit of money if you order it from the warehouse in China. It just takes longer to arrive, and I personally feel more comfortable dealing with Amazon, as compared to eBay or Alibaba.

OP, here are a few purchasing option links. Also, I would go with the glass bed option if I were you. The eBay link has the option to choose "Ender 3 + Glass Bed" at what looks like no extra cost. Otherwise, you can buy the glass bed separately for less than $20.

eBay Creality Warehouse store ($205): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender-3-Ender-3-Pro-3D-Printer-220X220X250mm-DC-24V-1-75mm-PLA/223496146513?hash=item3409688e51:m:mCXoexVEaY-yqetXfGJ-tyg

Alibaba Creality Warehouse store ($200): https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Official-Creality-3D-Ender-3-Ender_62047106886.html?spm=a2793.11769229.0.0.49733e5fSDdLkY

Amazon.com ($230): https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ender+3&qid=1571603563&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVko5TVZIMU5VVzRKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTk4NDkzMkxIQ1ZQRDVRSE1NJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMjc0MDlFWEc2V1BKT0ZGWjkmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Ender 3 Glass Bed ($17): https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1571603812&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRjhOSlg2T0ZVRDNLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDY4MzE3MkJJV1ozNk5VSENKUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjY0MzIwWUhHWFJSU0U0V1NBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Some other things I'd recommend


TL-Smoothers https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know you already upgraded the extruder assembly but this duel geared version is nice: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PEI Bed surface (has to date been the best upgrade): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and if you don't have a glass: https://smile.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=creality+glass&qid=1571456745&sr=8-5


I'd recommend applying the pei in the smooth side of the glass that way you can flip it over to have the textured side if you want.

Mine was purchased through Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D218NX3/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Some of this is standard stuff you probably already have, but:

• Engineer square and measuring tape for assembly
  
• Arduino Uno and jumper wires to flash firmware
  
• Wire to eliminate XT60 connector - this was what I decided to do after the connector started melting, you could just do it right away and save the hassle later. Or maybe you won't run into this problem at all!
  
• Glass bed, glue sticks, isopropyl alcohol to clean bed
  
• Upgraded springs
  
• Sandpaper, needle files and test probe kit for cleaning up prints
  
• Rasberry pi and picam to set up octoprint
  
• Lots of filament :)
  
  ​
  
  Some people choose to get an SD card extension cable, I haven't seen a need for it myself but thought it worth mentioning.

Sure, no problem. I'll give you a bit more info as it may be relevant :)

1. I use a 3 mm borosilicate glass bed by Go 3D. I started with dollarstore glass which worked well enough but it wasn't thick enough to compensate for my curved bed.
   
2. I washed it in hot water and soap. I had to use a razor blade to scrape off some tough weird spots that were likely from the manufacturing process. I got it squeaky clean and let it air-dry.
   
3. Meanwhile, I removed the buildtak and adhesive from the printer. It didn't take long. The trick was heating the bed up to 100 and carefully using a razor blade scraper. I have more info on this; ask if you're interested.
   
4. I installed the glass bed, making sure I didn't touch the surface more than necessary.
   
5. I cleaned it again with 70% isopropyl and a glasses cleaning cloth (I picked up a bulk pack of them from Amazon). The isopropyl is in a spritz bottle that I bought at a local drugstore. I top it up using a bigger refill bottle.
   
6. And that's basically it. I repeat #5 every time I print. Spritz, scrub a bit with the cloth over where the previous print was, and done. It takes maybe 10 seconds. I've been printing on it for about 2 months now and haven't taken it off to re-clean with soap and water. Some people say to use acetone, but I've had luck with just 70% iso.
   
   That said, the biggest contributing factor to getting my prints to stick was the leveling. Once I nailed the leveling, I haven't had a failed print due to poor adhesion. Failures due to other things, sure. But not because of the glass :)

This is one of the printers I have, and honestly my favorite of the 3, VERY easy to set up and pretty easy to use, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBEF3T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8uf0DbNXBQD8W

Also you can find tons of stl files of destiny weapons on thingiverse.com and myminifactory.com
(Edited to clean up link)

The Creality Ender 3 ($230 about) is a GREAT little printer, if you can build it yourself (it's pretty simple!) and produces amazing results for such a low-cost printer. I have one myself and it prints just as well as my over $1000 Lulzbot Mini.

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Printer-Source/dp/B07D218NX3/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwbmiqdj75AIVeR-tBh3HrQKtEAAYAyAAEgITWfD_BwE&hvadid=295831533020&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9060440&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t3&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5423867397037548362&hvtargid=kwd-431075118707&hydadcr=8271_9755811&keywords=creality+ender+3&qid=1569954532&s=industrial&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySFdJV01BUUlOVDFNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzMxNjc2MzFHMExXOVdJN1RQUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODA4ODAzMldSNTRQMDZOTzBXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I replaced the stock glass with mirrored tiles from Home Depot. I used to use tape and glue sticks but read a comment on how much better PEI sheets were to print on. No more glue or tape, just rub it down with rubbing alcohol between prints.

It sticks very well when heated up, and comes off almost effortlessly when cooled down. You also get a shiny surface on the part touching the PEI sheet which is nice. Well worth $21 from Amazon.

So far, comments have focused on the glass bed. FWIW, your bed seems similar to mine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ

I've had at least 1000 successful prints on the "dimpled" side of this bed and have never used any kind of adhesion aid. I clean it with a quick wipe of alcohol (for one or two seconds) between prints and it's good to go again.

My guess is that you still haven't managed to level your bed properly. Can you upload a pic of one of your attempts at a first layer? That would help a lot.

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

• PSU Switching Power Supply 400W 12V 33A for 3D Printer Kits 115V/230V S-400-12 (got mine locally for 20€)
  
• MOSFET BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer or alternatively TriGorilla 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module (this one is huge, but powerful)
  
• Power socket & switch https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK - here any 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14 type will do
  
• T-Belt RepRap Champion 5 Meter 6mm Width GT2 Timing Belt for Reprap Delta 3D Printer Kossel Rostock
  
• Pulleys BIQU GT2 20Teeth 3mm Bore Aluminum Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt (Pack of 5pcs)
  
• Bushings 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap (warning: you need 8 pcs of these bushings. Couldn't find any listed offer with 8)
  
• Borosilicate Glass Signstek 3D Printer MK2 MK3 Heated Bed Tempered Borosilicate Glass Plate 2132003mm
  
  Printed upgrades:
  
  
• Z-Endstop for 3mm Glass
  
• Improved Fan duct or Fan duct for Anet A6 because my original fell out and killed a print as well as the fan mounting plate
  
• PSU cover
  
• Y-Belt holder
  
• Table nut and cover spring
  
• Anet A6 Dual Mosfet Holder (works only for the small MOSFETs)
  
• Z-axis calibration spacer (not really necessary but nice to have) - print two
  
  There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
  

I actually replaced my whole extrusion path.

First, I found that the spring in the stock extruder assembly would fatigue resulting in under extrusion and jams. The BMG is a little pricey but worth it IMO. Comes with pretty good instructions.

Second, I switched to a Micro-swiss all metal hot-end. I probably didn't need to do this - given I almost never print high-temp materials but did it anyway.

Last, cheapest, and not least, Capricorn Tubing. Do not underestimate the difference this can make.

If you're up to the challenge, I highly recommend a BLTouch. It completely solved my first layer woes (warped bed on my CR-10s).

Its a great printer. Upgrade your springs and get an aluminum extruder. Those two things were so cheap, but definitely made a difference for me. I use a glass bed with a PEI sheet and have been very happy with it. I use eSun PLA Pro for my minis. Check out Tomb of 3d Printed Horros for their cura profiles and tips!

i have an ender 3 pro and after saying no to any upgrades I finally started to see what everyone is talking about 6 months down the road. here is a list of things that you will see a lot of you tubers tell you to replace. the YouTube channel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors is a great resource for everything about the ender 3.

1. new boden tube and couplings that are alot better to use then stock https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC594D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. THIS IS A MUST HAVE! a new metal extruder (eliminates a crap ton of extrusion issues) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Glass bed (best bed adhesion with 0 cleanup) this is optional but does solve a ton of issues down the road https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. extra nozzles in a variety of sizes (not needed but nice to play with different sizes and to clear any clogs fast you can just replace the nozzle....i run .2, .4, and .8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPZ7TNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   the YouTube Chanel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a step by step build guide for your ender 3 ( i used it for mine) he will recommend most of this list as well. He also has other videos on the slicer settings you will use for Cura. for D&D models you can use this google doc list https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PemvBH7LC-hm4KoeA8OXVu5_k963Vpmw7kOEA_1tzWs/edit?pli=1#gid=0

I LOVE MY ENDER 3'S. I have one running stock everything (except the bed) and the other is well, an ender 3 in name only now. (I know you mentioned you are in the EU, but I have provided links to my sources for US based distributors)

Printer setup:

Ender 3

MKS (MKS GEN L V1.0)

TMC (2208's)

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend ( MS all metal )

Custom Modified heater block (installed 300°c heater cartridge and 450°c capable thermistor from slice engineering) (heater) & (thermistor)

Bantamfeeder Extruder ( bantam design ) ... will be changing this out soon when I decide what next. Works well just not my cup of tea for convenience purposes.

Bullseye Duct ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439)

3-point bed conversion for leveling made easy (Leveling guide and 3 point leveling adapter). HERE IS A COMPLETED DESIGN OF THESE CHANGES( My bed setup ... < < < this is my stock ender 3)

Borosilicate glass bed w/ PEI (Glass bed & PEI Sheet)

PSU (Mean Well NES-350-24 24V 350 Watt UL Switching Power Supply 120 Volt)

​

OCTOPRINT SERVER

RPI 3b+ (raspberry pi w/ octoprint)

Pi Cam (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2SY756/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

​

So now you see why I say not really an ender 3 anymore, only in name

Second - some Amazon links for the upgrade pieces I mention:

Springs - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDDHYN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bowden Tube - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couplings - https://smile.amazon.com/Dorhea-Straight-Pneumatic-Fittings-Accessories/dp/B07NSRCH2W/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3d+printer+fitting&qid=1574436375&sr=8-15

Extruder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PEI Sheet - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stepper Motor Dampeners - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bootloader Flashing Kit - https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Bootloader-Flashing-Duplicator/dp/B07S5BBLKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino+uno+ender+3+kit&qid=1574436535&s=industrial&sr=1-3

Note that I didn't buy this flashing kit, but this one seems to have everything you need to get a bootloader onboard the Ender. What happens is you go through a bunch of steps to attach this so the printer and then put a bootloader onto the Ender 3 board. You only have to do that one time, then you can update the firmware as often as you want - typically via a USB cable. I have Octoprint installed, so I can flash my firmware on my basement printers from my upstairs computer using wifi. Super easy and handy.

You can buy the Elgoo Mars DLP printer on Amazon for $280. It’s build size is a little small but it’s an amazing printer. I’d say that it would be amazing for key caps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fP2GDbRJJ1YVM

• Get some 99% isopropyl alcohol. I get it from amazon.
  
  
• And definitely checkout this guide on getting your bed level. It will save a lot of headaches.
  https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs
  
  
• Nozzle socks are good, can make life easier after a catastrophe.
  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK-x/dp/B07779TP4S
  
  
• As for filament, Hatchbox , eSUN, and Amazon brands have been working great for me.

I have been looking into 3d printing and decided the best place to start would be with an ender3 so that I would be able to have quality prints, for a reasonable price. However, looking on several websites there are different prices and I am just not sure which one would be best to go for.

Amazon has the ender-3 from Comgrow for $230 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR3F9N6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2ALB3RMNIRLH8&psc=1

However, it says the official one, again for $230 is here: https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Printer-Source/dp/B07D218NX3/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=creality&qid=1569107314&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWjJVQlE0MjhKMEQ2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODU2MjU2MzNSMTQ2SlFGUjg1OCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODA4ODAzMldSNTRQMDZOTzBXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I also found a website listing it on sale for $189 here: https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845898.html?

I got the last link from Maker's Muse video and I am just very confused. I do not want to spend more money than I need to as filament is also rather expensive.

Any help would be appreciated, I really want to get it for the cheapest price without it coming in damaged or in a month.

I bought this extruder feed from Amazon to replace my plastic one.

I checked a YouTube video real quick and then went for it. It seemed like a pretty straightforward install.

That said, now I look at it, the arm seems canted a bit, almost as if the screw with the bearing on it isn't in all the way? It's in as far as it will go.

I had one short countersunk screw (M2 I think) and a lock washer leftover. Couldn't think of where a lock washer would be useful for this assembly, and the stock one didn't have a lock washer anywhere, but if someone knows where it goes, or anything else to ensure this is on correctly, please let me know.

That said, it seems to be extruding just fine, I've done a couple of test prints and nothing seems amiss.

Budget: $400
Country: USA
Kit: I know nothing about this kind of thing, so if there's good instructions and easy for a beginner to figure out, I'm ok with a kit. But preassembled would be better.
Usage: Intro to 3d printing. I want to be able to print some interesting things, maybe for use with some raspberry pi projects
Concerns: As I said, I know nothing about this. This is my first foray, so I'd hope for something that is easy to use out of the box, without the need for modding right away, is reliable, so I won't need to troubleshoot too much, and has a good community around it, in case I do need to troubleshoot.

I've heard good things about the Monoprice Maker Select Plus. There's a promo code right now that I could get this printer for $299 from monoprice, but I've also read that monoprice has awful support, and that if I need to RMA, or if I just want a refund, I'm basically out of luck. If I buy from Amazon, I know I'll be able to return it within 30 days if something is wrong, but I'll also have to spend more money.

First of all, thanks for the awesome post!

But I have 3 questions about what you wrote on the Monoprice Maker Select V2 and Plus models:

1. Regarding the MP Maker Select Plus, are there any mods that you know of that it needs in order to make it a half-decent printer?
   
   
2. You state that the Monoprice Maker Select Plus does not have the Mosfet issues that the V2 does, however, the Maker Select Plus user manual states the max bed temp is 70C. Yet users state it can go up to 110C. I take this to mean by monoprice, "if you do go over 70C, you will damage the circuitry and we will voic your warranty" lol. Do you have any idea why the manual says 70C is the max bed temp?
   
   
3. You state that Amazon has pulled the Monoprice maker Select V2 and Select Plus models. But I have been researching these models over the past 2 weeks or so and even today they are still both up for sale ("Ships from and sold by Amazon.com" with active buy button). I have never seen them out of stock at all. V2 - Plus
   Are you talking about other Amazon sites besides the .com/US site?

That's a very good point. I'm confident in my soldering skills, I neglected that others may not be. I have seen a few FET's out in the wild. I'm not sure if they are all created equally.

I'm aware of the reprap one:
http://www.reprap.me/power-expander.html
and the Amazon Trigorilla one:
https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482884825&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet

Can anyone chime in on the best Mosfet solution for those that don't have the skills or want to possibly void their warranty?

On a budget, there are three great choices for Mini Printing:

Anycubic Photon (not Photon S)

Elegoo Mars

Epax X1

Angus did say in his video on the Elegoo Mars that they are going to release a new version in the next few weeks. So, the current one may go even lower in price.

Check the forms here for info on each printer.

ETA: These are all DLP printers and the screens will need to be replaced every so often. Also, if you want the best quality minis, you would have to go to a true SLA. But there are no budget true SLA printers. They start with the Peopoly Moai at about $1,300.

DLP vs SLA

problems so far havent really been anything serious, i bought the upgrades before i even built it so i cant really talk for the stock version

Upgrades i bought for it

• Silicone Heated Bed From Folgertech($25)
  
• Tri Gorilla Mosfet($19)
  
• Custom cut piece of glass from lowes ($6)
  
• Microswiss CR10 All Metal Hotend bought the CR10 version because they use the exact same hotend and its a direct replacement
  
  other than that havent really had any problems with it its been a great printer so far, i am going to start printing some upgrades for it soon but its printing really nicely so far, if you do end up getting it ive got my s3d profiles i could email you ive got them looking pretty good, the retraction was one of the longest settings to get dialed in for me as this is my first bowden tube printer
  
  if you have any more questions let me know

I bought a regular glass bed off amazon and really liked that but the textured surface started to fail after a while and I didn't like having to clean off adhesives or hairspray. I got this PEI build surface from amazon and stuck that on top of it. The ender 3 pro's magnetic bed base is enough to keep the glass in place and the PEI sheet has adhesive on the bottom of it so I don't need to use the binder clips like I thought I would have to at first. It all just stays in place without shifting and I have access to the full print bed. The glass is still on there to correct a warp in the base bed and the PEI is honestly such an upgrade from glass. Things stick with no effort and come off easily at the end, except PETG which sticks like nobody's business and is harder to remove.

Looking to get into 3D printing mostly for wargaming terrain and some other misc things. Trying to stay on the cheaper side of things: $200-250.

Been looking at the Ender 3 and this filament since there are several different shades for the price.

Is there anything else I might need with that printer? Does anyone have experience with that filament or is there a better kind that is around the same price point?(Doesn't have to have multiple colors, just thought I would get something with multiple colors to begin with) Last question, what is the best software if I plan of using the printer mostly with Ubuntu?

Thanks in advance.

There was a resin printer reviewed on YouTube that’s like 250 it got good remarks from them and others online strongly debating my self. The resin is like 40 a bottle.

ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.72"(L) x 2.68"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size Black Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wjKXDbCCQKVYT

I have a Flashforge Finder and I highly recommend it. It's right at $500. It's incredibly user friendly compared to a kit. There's almost no setup and fiddling, it prints well out of the box. The software is good, the touch screen interface is cool, and it's been reliable.

https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-3D-Printers-New-Model/dp/B016R9E7J2

I had good luck with this glass with the corners pre-cut:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/

Don't forget to get this to help transfer the heat from the aluminum to the glass, also helps as a non-slip surface to help hold the glass in place:
https://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52/

I ended up ordering a generic borosilicate glass bed and applied some GizmoDorks PEI to the top of it. Works excellent and I don't need to use any painters tape or glue stick with it. It was a great upgrade from stock and much easier to level. Haven't decided yet if I want to dump my dial indicator leveling for a BLTouch or equivalent. I might end up doing that though.

There are a lot of variables in play here, but I strongly recommend getting the upgraded carriage plate from Gulfcoast Robotics (fka RepRap Champion).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B251KBS/

Not only will it improve initial leveling, it will hold level longer. The stock carriage plate is prone to warping and may be the twisted component that is throwing things off for you.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

​

I need to read more to understand the z switch and z screws you are referring to. I have no idea what those are. I assembled by watching some channel on youtube do it. It was like a tales from the crypt vibe channel.

​

As much as it sucks, I probably need to completely disassemble it and start over. There has to be something done incorrectly for it to be this difficult. I am definitely going to get one of those gauges before I get back into. I returned the springs today and ordered different springs on amazon. When they get here, I might sit down one night and try again.

​

As for the bed, the glass one I got was scratched to hell from those stupid springs. I didn't know I had to raise or lower whatever switch you were talking about. Like I said earlier, I already ordered a SD card reader so that will be a definite mod. As for the octopi, is there a list somewhere on this subreddit of everything you need to purchase before starting? I have a raspberry pi at the house. I originally bought it to build a retropie but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I could use it for the printer if needed. I really like the idea of remote printing, having a webcam to see the print live, and putting a part on there that stops the print if there is a filament issue.

​

I have to go into the city tomorrow so I was thinking of stopping by ikea and getting some Lack Tables for the eventual enclosure but now I don't know if I am even going to keep the Ender 3. I am debating on returning it and moving up a tier. I really want to get started on this but it seems like I am never going to be able to print any of this awesome stuff. So many awesome files on thingiverse and I can't use any of them.....

​

Here are the parts I have purchased so far....

​

SD Card Extension

​

Glass Bed

​

Springs that I bought that would not lower bed enough

​

Most Recent Springs I am going to try

​

Metal Extruder Upgrade

​

Filament Black and Red

Looks like you have a clog in your nozzle. Happened to me recently and i had to end up swapping the whole thing out.

Do your self a favor and grab one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC/

Its an all-metal hot end upgrade that is all sorts of better than what came stock on your printer and really easy to install. It will also fix the issue you're having right now.

Otherwise you need to figure out a way to get what ever is clogging your print head and causing you to under extrude out.

My advice (first of all) is to install ADVi3++ if you haven't, the bed-leveing function (under the Tuning menu I think) is pretty good.

Some general advice for the actual leveling process:

• Start with the knobs tightened enough that the nozzle is too high everywhere and work from there.
  
• Underturn each knob during the leveling process. Loosening the knobs adjacent to a corner you're leveling will affect that corner somewhat - e.g., loosening the front left and back right knobs will also lower the bed for the front right corner, so if you adjust the front right corner knob fully, when you loosen the other knobs, the bed will be too close in that corner.
  
• Keep making minor adjustments, keeping in mind which corners are high/low, until a piece of paper can be slid under the nozzle with some friction.
  
  If things still aren't leveling:
  
  
• Mess with your z-axis motors. I actually just used a normal level for this, which worked for me, but you may require more experimentation.
  
• Adjust your z-endstop. Especially if you've put a glass bed in place, you may have set your endstop too high or too low to effectively level the bed. Ideally, you want the knobs to be about in the middle of their range while the bed is level. If the knobs are too tight or too loose, wonky things can happen (bed can get pulled sideways slightly)
  
• If all else fails, you probably have a warped y-carriage. Mine is warped slightly, and leveling is harder for me than it should be. You can get a replacement y-carriage here, and you can follow this video to replace it.
  
  Once you can actually get things level, I highly recommend getting some M3 nyloc nuts and replacing the default bed leveling knobs with these. They don't look as nice as the metal/stock ones, but it will prevent vibration/movement from de-leveling your bed as quickly.
  
  Good luck!

+1 for the silicone sock! I am now running those and they are great! Here is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S I think you will be okay to heat up your hotend, the thermistor wires are definitely not going anywhere.

It's been a while since I've done any in depth reading, so I might be missing some options.

The prusa i3 mk3 is great if you're willing to spend $750. The mk2 is also quite good at $600. Going lower yet, the wanhao duplicator i3 seems to work well, and it's about $300 or so (there's a monoprice-badged version that's often a little cheaper).

Below $1000 you're going to have to do a little tinkering and calibrating to get things to work well, so be warned. I personally find that enjoyable, but your milage may vary.

If you're less into tinkering I recommend buying on Amazon, just in case you feel the need to return it. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Touchscreen-Filament-Preloaded-Printable/dp/B01JBEF3T8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539127110&sr=8-3&keywords=wanhao+i3+plus

Also, do check out the 3d printing subreddit.

I'm pretty sure I just got an official creality one, but here is an Amazon link. I'm glad you got it figured out!

210-215 so far. The printer auto heated to 215, then I tried at 210 since that's what the Hatchbox directions said. Is this the hotend? I actually already purchased this but didn't install it yet. So I should purchase this as well? Thanks so much for the help!

Do you just need it for a single project? If you'd have future need, you can get decent 3D printers for relatively cheap these days. I've heard good things about the Monoprice Select Mini (~NZ$375 after shipping). The Monoprice Mini Delta is even cheaper (~NZ$325 after shipping) and I think supposed to also be decent, though when I was looking into 3D printers last year it was only just about to be released, so I don't know too much about that one. Monoprice have traditionally been pretty good about quality and price on their products.

They are fun and relatively cheap! You can find a smaller one for around $250 that would work great! Come visit us over at /r/3Dprinting for a ton more info.

If you want a beginning printer go with Monoprice select mini v2. It has a small printing bed but it has good quality and is easy to set up. I got mine from https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Mini-Printer-Assembled/dp/B073ZLSMFT/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=monoprice+select+mini+3d+printer+v2&qid=1558146876&s=gateway&sprefix=monoprice+selec&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 for $190 or you could get one off the official website.

I ordered this one, and it got to me in Canada pretty quick for a decent price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've literally only done two prints since I got it installed though, so I can't say how big an improvement it is on the original yet.

It was an Amazon prime day deal yesterday. Today this is the best deal I could find on this particular printer. There might be better deals on this or other printers later, sorry.
https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Printer-Source/dp/B07D218NX3/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=creality+3d+printer&psr=PDAY&qid=1563285900&s=prime-day&sr=1-3-catcorr

Build plate is tearing up a little when you remove the print.

I suggest purchasing a glass replacement to go over the top of your build plate. Note: You'll have to calibrate your Z-axis a little unless if you get super lucky and the glass plate is exactly the same thickness as your current plate. Amazon has one for $20

I am also interested in changing the bearings on the y axis and the x axis. Are these good bearings to make the printer quieter and maybe more stable?

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I've been using a sheet of PEI that works like a charm. The one i got was from amazon, something like this would work https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B074XLD5QH/ref=pd_sim_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PPGSHY9T4C0YC14V4FVS

It even comes with the adhesive.

Buying this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and buying this in order to properly calibrate e-steps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These two things took my prints from adequate to pristine. Huge improvement.

If you're going to use it for minis and terrain, things that are small but highly detailed, you should look at resin printers. They used to be very expensive, but the cost has dropped dramatically recently.

One of my players recently bought this one just for printing stuff for our game. Price isn't bad ($260) and the quality of the prints is fantastic.

i ended up buying this glass bed. Overall its pretty good. Just use purple glue stick you can buy anywhere and youll be fine. albeit for me i need to call in NASA engineers to get mine off as well. :/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3C42WXXA97BWB&keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1569282569&sprefix=ender+3+glas+bed%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-5

I’ve done some basic configuring on a pi before, but not an Arduino.

Is something like this a good place to start?

OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VXi2AbTGH6C67

I always recommend the FlashForge Finder as someone's first 3D Printer. Comes fully assembled and ready to print (aside from levelling the bed). 14 x 14 x 14 cm build area, high quality prints. I use one for PLA orders for my online shop. It's also built like a brick shithouse.

Yeah, a second external mosfet. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1526154992&sr=8-19&keywords=mosfet The MK2/S has had a history of having arching and melting in the plug they use to hook the heat bed to the RAMBO. That's why the MK3 uses screw terminals so its less necessary. They're much safer and more robust. The PSU has a spare empty 12V +/- terminal. So I desoldered the heatbed end. Ran those leads to the on/off signal input of the external mosfet. The RAMBO bed output now becomes a lower amperage enable/disable signal. Then I ran new power leads from the PSU to the power in on the mosfet then power out to the bed, soldering those new leads onto the bed. Printed a small enclosure and use some self adhesive velcro to stick it to my rambo case. Aint pretty, but the risk of a meltdown is greatly reduced. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry.

I've been working on converting to a ramps 1.4 kit. That's the one I ordered. I also picked up an ATX power supply so I can control it with my pi. As far as the conversion goes, it seems pretty simple, installing the Marlin firmware was weird (I ended up having to do the configuration/install myself with the current version of Marlin, not using osoyoo's custom one). I just printed the mount conversion and I'll be installing it soon.

Not sure if it helps or not, just wanted to give you my perspective :)

I would recommend Gizmo Dorks on Amazon, it's a bit more expensive than others but it's pretty thick at 0.56mm and quite durable.

It can be purchased cheaper from other vendors, but those are much thinner pieces at 0.1mm, which I imagine wouldn't last as long. Another perk of PEI is if it gets scratched or ends up with surface defects, you can sand them out and it's good as new. Thicker sheets will obviously handle this better as there is more material.

It's multiples of 0.04, but it won't have a huge impact.

Regarding hair spray/glue stick etc... a PEI sheet will save you a lot of effort. You put it on top of the glass and then print directly on it, no need to do anything. Edit: and yes, as /u/PuterPro says, get your bed flat.

In theory, they are. The Ender 3 Pro is slightly different, since it uses a wider extrusion for the bed rail, making it more stable (in theory). If you're looking to buy on Amazon, I believe this is sold by Creality themselves and fulfilled by Amazon (which might make any warranty replacements easier):

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Printer-Source/dp/B07D218NX3

>If it were me I'd probably switch back to my standard filament just to make sure my printer is still working like I'm used to. It's way better to troubleshoot a known-known.

This is actually exactly what I just did! And to my surprise, I had the same problem with the previous filament.
I actually found the issue now! At the same time I put in place the new nozzle, I also put in place one of these E3d silicon socks. And it seems this silicon sock is preventing the print to be properly cooled by my fan shroud!
I just removed it and tried again and now the print looks fine. Now I just have to try again with the glow in the dark filament but my guess is that it's gonna work!

It really depends on how comfortable you feel with electronics. Watch Youtube videos on the conversion and see if its something you are up for. If it were me, I'd do RAMPS (still with the mosfet mod) with Marlin firmware. Several people on this sub have done it and would mostly likely be nice enough to give you their Marlin firmware. If you go this route you'll have to set the current limit on the drivers, edit the configuration.h in Marlin, calibrate the e-steps, PID tune both hotend/bed and give the RAMPS board solder joints a carefully once over. Sometimes there are extra solder balls and shotty joints.
EDIT: you might also need to recrimp some connectors.

This is the most important one IMO. Eventually you should switch to a glass bed. It's pretty trivial, you just print a shim to change the z end stop and clip a glass bed overtop the buildtak (at least that's what I did).

A new fan shroud is worth doing

As is this little plate

Speaking of, are you aware of the magic numbers? You can find them with an explanation here: https://www.mpselectmini.com/optimal_layer

For those looking for a glass bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Borosilicate glass has high heat tolerance and is resistant to rapid heat changes. The one posted here fits perfectly on MPSMv2

+1... This is a WIN

1. Small mistakes make great lessons.
   
2. Still usable to print 75% as wide as the print bed, at least
   
3. Instant excuse to drop $30 on a glass bed. I got this one: Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Creality-Ender3- 4mm thick

Thanks for the info. Sadly yes [I bought the correct ones](http://www.3D.com/ Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OPhWBbA71R3DG)

Thanks for the info on the hotend. I bought a gcr model and had clogging issues.

Nozzles are all generally brass. Those should be expected to be replaced from time to time. They are relatively cheap. The Microswiss upgrade is more than just a nozzle. It replaces the stock hotend with all metal. In your stock hotend is a PTFE tube that can cause jams, will deform if heated too high, and prevents you from using certain materials. The microswiss is a relatively inexpensive and easy way to fix this.

I recommend the block too: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503589251&sr=8-1&keywords=microswiss

However you can save a little money:
https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503589251&sr=8-3&keywords=microswiss

Ender 3 is fantastic and relatively cheap but if you’re on a really tight budget you could go with the Monoprice Select Mini v2 but you’ll have to use a version of the files modified to fit.

If you have Amazon available, this is by far the best price on the full setup (plus LCD and SD card slot)

www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZITDwb43HXT2

I've bought about 5 of them, and these guys may actually have some quality control.

Honestly I would suggest getting the upgraded motors instead of the dampeners. They will be much quieter and give you better performance. For the bed I got this:
[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

So I want to get the Ender 3, and unfortunately I’m locked into using Amazon (gift cards). There’s a litany of different listings for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro; I’m not sure which listing is best, or if there’s a real difference. The prices are within a reasonable range of each other (230-250 for the regular, 270-300 for the Pro), but I know that QC can vary widely by machine. Does anyone know of/have any suggestions for which listings are the most reliable? I’m leaning towards the regular since the Pro features aren’t something I’m interested in as much.

Various Listings:
Creality Ender 3 3D Printer with Resume Printing Function for Home & School Use 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFTHMMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1QfxCb1NEWRV0

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Printer Fully Open Source https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D218NX3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sRfxCbNXRZ5AW

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer with Removable Magnetic Bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XRfxCbH8D4B7B

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer with Removable Magnetic Bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XRfxCbH8D4B7B

Right now I'm looking at possibly getting a 3D printer, and these are the 2 I'm looking at.


Anycubic Upgraded Full Metal I3 Mega 3D PRINTER with Ultra Base Heated and 3.5" Touch Screen


And


FlashForge Finder 3D Printers with Cloud, Wi-Fi, USB cable and Flash drive connectivity


Which of these two is best?


​

I have a maker select v2 and recently switched to 3 point leveling with one of these. Highly recommended.

This gives an excellent overview of the benefits of 3 point leveling.

I was having the same problems as you prior to the upgrade. I couldn't get even leveling across the bed which led to my printer collecting dust for a few months.

Yeah, I got a bunch of tips. Did you join the HackerHappyHour discord? If you did, there's a 3d-printing channel in the Maker section, and I can respond faster there. (I only check reddit every few days usually) Here's the join link if you need it again: https://discord.gg/WNDrtWM

I have used 2 build plate surfaces so far. The build-tak that came with the kit, and a borosilicate glass plate I got from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9

I use Slic3r (and I'm now an official contributor to it!), and I have been posting my Slic3r profiles in this gist when i get then nailed down: https://gist.github.com/LongLiveCHIEF/6363bba1e4799bff9122c03f5e8096e3#file-slic3r_ender3_config_bundle-ini

The Ender3 ini bundle that is there now is for the buildtak plate, and I'm almost done with my glass settings.

I also upgraded the bed springs, bought a BLTouch auto-bed-level, and some automotive feeler guages so I can exactly level and dial in my bed shape to slic3r

The reason I did all that, is the biggest factor for sticking is going to be temperate. If you take bed shape/leveling/distance out of the equation, it's easier to focus on temperature without worrying about other factors messing up your layers.

All in all though, I haven't had a lot of problems getting things to stick. You can see my temp settings in the gist I posted, but I've been finding lately that for Hatchbox, the best temperature seems to be 187 - 192 for the hot end, and about 57 - 63 for the bed. Technically you don't need to heat the bed for PLA, but I haven't tried a cold bed yet so couldn't tell you if that works well or not.

Flash Forge Creator Pro. I had a lot of problems with it out of the box with clogging in the nozzles and things sticking to the build plate. After adding a metal hotend and magnetic build plate it has worked amazingly with no issues. I see the magnetic build plate is out of stock, so not sure where you can get those now, but being able to just flex the plate and have pieces pop right off is great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_PI.Cyb7TB37GQ

This is the board I'm looking doing. I like it because of the heat sink.

I know there is that is half the price, but the heat sink I think is better.

A genuine microswiss, sure https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=pd_cp_328_1/135-5486205-8497053?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0789V2D7C&pd_rd_r=e8b874f2-aefe-4408-a022-6a0c0272998d&pd_rd_w=RcLct&pd_rd_wg=Ravoy&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=A9ZWV06R064NQD1A9VDT&psc=1&refRID=A9ZWV06R064NQD1A9VDT

But when it comes to clones, trianglelab is the only company that makes them as good or very close to the real thing.

Oh yeah most definitely. Here is a link to the RAMPS kit that I bought and Here is a link to the E3D clone I bought. For this clone to work I printed an insert for the heatsink.

Nozzle sock

I didn't get one at first and my nozzle/hot end got covered in all kinds of scrap that melted on and then burned on, and I started to get little dark blobs in my prints. Keeping it clean also makes it easier to change the nozzle.

Amazon.

I'd recommend the RAMPS 1.4 board as there is already a guide to installing it on the Mini and a BLTouch mechanical probe sensor that is also on Amazon.

Also note you need someway to mount your probe the hot end so since no one has done it yet with Mini (publicly anyways), you'd probably have to design your own mount and print it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NEGTXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm looking for a decent starter printer and found what looks like a good resin one and was wanting to get the communities input.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF?tag=all3dp0c-20&th=1

Yes my friend

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbsPDbPNKDNM9

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T-sPDbX4FQ8EG

I was going to go with something like this because I don't mind spending a little bit of money: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_KRuDDbGMR3EMH
Would a mirror be better, or is it basically the same idea?

I got this one and it is working out great!

So far I have printed PLA and PETG.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Glass Bed

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

hot end v6

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

This is the one I went with, it's been pretty great so far except the one unfortunate incident with this particular print.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love the RAMPS 1.4 on my Makerfarm i3v, basically the same as the controller that comes with your printer, just slightly less contained. This one comes with the big screen and SD card reader, and it only costs 33 bucks. (Never heard of the brand though) Or you can get the full kit with brand name parts from Makerfarm for $130.

https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-3D-Printers-New-Model/dp/B016R9E7J2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502825957&sr=8-1&keywords=flashforge+finder

And it has free two day shipping for prime members ;)

Seriously love this guy, and it wont break the bank.

with the help of this awesome community, i got this one.... works like a champ..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this Micro Swiss hotend on my Ender 3 and it prints like a champ, even with nylon. I reused the nozzle from my stock hot end though as I wasn't a fan of the one that came with the Micro Swiss one. Voltage doesn't matter as you will be reusing the heater from the stock hot end.

"v2.1" is a label that means nothing anymore, since there have been four revisions of v2.1 and the most current model is still called v2.1

Wanhao has never done a "mosfet change" in the board, they upgraded under-rated connectors to properly handle the amount of power needed to pass through them; they didn't add anything.

If you want to be sure, open the box and look at things for yourself.

Edit: Apparently Wanhao did update a mosfet. But I haven't seen any reports of someone who had something like this in their printer. It's likely the updated mosfet is visually identical to what they replaced.

Mine worked great without having to scuff it at all. I just heat the bed to 60°, when the print is done and the bed cools down the print pops right off. Here is the link to the one I bought.

I just ordered one the other day after doing lots of research. This one has great reviews: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RD6D2ZQ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Tomb of 3d printed horrors has a great assembly video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q&t=766s

Useful tips also consider getting the aluminum extruder before set-up (its easier to do during the assembly process). https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Extruder-Aluminum/dp/B07J44QW8B

Level your bed! Most of my failed prints have been when my bed becomes unleveled.

I included some helpful youtube channels that helped me problem solve.

Chep - https://www.youtube.com/user/beginnerelectronics

Teaching Tech - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw

I have a glass bed, too. What I do is, once the print's finished and cooled down to room temp, I throw it in the freezer for about 15 minutes. The print just pops off. In fact, most times it just falls off.

[edit] It also helps that I bought this, the edges are already fairly rounded, plus since it's the same material as Pyrex®, less chance of breakage. You can look his store name up on Google, he usually has them available there when he's out on Amazon.

I"m going to say no. That is a stock Ender 3 hotend. The PTFE bowden tube will break down at or before 240C and release potentially toxic fumes. You want a hot end that does not allow the bowden tube to get too close to the melt zone & heating element. You can replace the standard heatbreak with something that keeps the PTFE away from the heat zone like this one (not saying it works with the Ender 3, I haven't tried it but look at the drawing and you see the bowden tube is kept a fair distance from the nozzle end of the heatbreak) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GRX256/?coliid=IOHVUCVLQ020R&colid=130JFFKF5YAUO&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

​

Microswiss hot end ( https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=microswiss+ender+3&qid=1555949725&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1 ) seems to be the gold standard for all metal hot ends.

For sure. http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2816/howto-converting-to-a-ramps-controller/

Pretty helpful sub, you can always ask me for help if you get stuck along the way. Also, I used the Makerfarm Pegasus instructions for putting the RAMPS together.

This is the kit I bought, it was mostly complete but I had to order some jumpers because I was short a few. http://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

I have a set of 7 picked out on amazon and my free trial expires in 3 days I'm gonna order them soon, just waiting on a link to something else I am supposed to order for my dad.

Here are the ones that I have chosen what do you think of them? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5IjoDb99E75FN

Hi all,

In the UK and wanted to get a resin printer, budget under £500.

​

I see in the USA some people are going crazy over this:ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer

Uncle Jesse on youtube seems to love it!

​

This deal has now ended and the printer is sold out on Amazon.com

​

So the main website is selling it, but obviously, that would be from the USA and I would need to pay tax and shipping to the UK.

​

So, seeing as I am in the UK I was looking for something over here I could purchase.

I was looking at the ANYCUBIC Photon S 3D Printer

​

Does anyone here know:

1. if this is a good alternative to the ELEGOO?
   
2. if not is there a good alternative?
   
   ​
   
   Thank you so much for your time

I got this one. It has good reviews and the price was right.

I think most on Amazon are probably similar.

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDOEDbJSNRTST

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10 / CR10 / CR10S / Ender 2 / Ender 3 Ender 5 Printers .4mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_J-AFDb6CRKAMW

Is this hot end considered a good upgrade. Right now I'm having clogging, a lot of stringing. And I'm levelled well and all my settings are pre-loaded with this auto-leveling print. I'm lost, i feel like things aren't flowing well.

Yeah, it was a printer i got for a good deal from china. My old board melted and shorted out so I had to get this new one.

Is there a way to enable eeprom on this board? I'm not having much luck finding any article online on how to enable it.

Also, is this everything I would need to convert it to the arduino with ramps? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ZNj3wbQV2DV9T

Fortunately, you don't have to spend much nowadays for a really good 3D printer. The first one I bought was $2200 a few years ago. Now you can get that same quality for about $300. I highly recommend something like the Flashforge Finder, but there are several options that are very similar in quality and price.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016R9E7J2/

Had to get spare aluminum strip, and aluminum blocks from FFCP directly.
my glass bed from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY8F172/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
thermocouples from amazon as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QKQ8G0E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 note they are 4mm and 24volt, thats unique to flashforge, my model at least.
and heating elements from amazon as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUYVLYC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 again note the 24v specialty, apparently flashforge is one of the few that uses that, everyone else is on 12v or something?
and lastly but most importantly, the all metal hot end. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C3HEQZC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 dual printing sucks, i just run 1 nozzle.

Print off a Z-Spacer (like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029)Pull off the black mat, clean well with adhesive remover, and install glass. I use this one, which fits perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've never had great luck getting adhesion straight on glass, but the glass will give you a flat bed. If you have adhesion issues, go with blue tape.

Glass will make the bed flat but not level. You still have to do that part. It will be much easier to level and require less frequent adjustments though. There are pre-cut pieces of borosilicate for the mini

Yea of course, i have the [MP Select Mini v2](Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer V2 - Black With Heated (120 x 120 x 120 mm) Build Plate, Fully Assembled + Free Sample PLA Filament And MicroSD Card Preloaded With Printable 3D Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZLSMFT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3AG7BbCWZBJJ0)

[This](Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6CG7BbW9QA8GM) got amazing reviews when i was looking but it was too big for my apartment

Here's the list of stuff I got.

​

📷
MelodySusie 36W UV Nail Lamp Dryer, Professional UV Gel Nail Polish Curing Light with 3 Timer Setting, Sliding Tray for Manicure Pedicure Gel Polish, UV Resin, Acrylic, Polygel, White
Sold by: MelodySusie Direct
$26.59
Buy it again
📷
SC Products 4" Rotating Display Stand, Solar Powered, Chrome Finish, by Sunrise Crystal
Sold by: Sunrise Crystal
$12.99
Buy it again
📷
ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin LCD UV-Curing Resin 405nm Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD 3D Printing 1000Gram Grey
Sold by: ELEGOO
$39.99
Buy it again
📷
ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.72"(L) x 2.68"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size Black Version
Sold by: ELEGOO
$279.99
Buy it again

I bought this one and it's been working great. It's thick enough that it can take some prying and if it starts to lose adhesion you can lightly sand it with some 1000 grit to restore it.