(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement engine parts

I'm not aware of any specific products, but if they were out there, I assume it would've just been a standard (and overpriced) silicone sleeve - which you could just measure the E-Nano's diameter and match it to the I.D. of a piece of silicone tubing yourself.

They're generally not too expensive and you can pick from any color/style. You can get a non-glossy style that looks pretty clean (can't see the ridges) and has a nice "fabric-y" feel to them. I run them on one of my cars, don't remember where I got them though...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CB20PD2/

Those are meant for motor/plumbing system applications, which is likely what you're going to see in the size you'd need. They'll work fine, but you may get a bit of a rubbery smell when warmed for a while...

You could also use a wrist (sweat) band. The ones I have would fit perfectly around an E-Nano without slipping, but it's putting nylon near an electric heater. I don't think it would be an issue, but I don't know how much that would bother you.

https://www.amazon.com/Nike-Dri-Fit-Home-Doublewide-Wristbands/dp/B00I3VN596

I um...use those on my all aluminum shift knob in the Winter/Summer.

I have no idea why any idea I'm coming up with is from my damn cars lol.

Past that, I don't really know dude.

Anything else I can think of is probably gonna look ghetto or leave adhesive/residue on the E-Nano...which I'd avoid.

It's your intake tube/intake pipe.

They crack over time, so yeah, he totally tried to seal it with silicon.

They're cheap.

Here's one on Amazon that looks like it will work

This one is cheaper - might work too.

It's pretty easy to put on. Those two bolts, one clamp, make sure the o-ring is in place. It might be hard to cram your carb spigot into the new one the first time.

Your new one will wear out in a few years too...

• Dogbone insert.
  
• Replace any non-LED with LED bulbs.
  
• Change color of LED bulbs for interior (i.e. I got red footwell LEDs)
  
• Clubsport S Center Caps (have a red ring around them)
  
• Tint (find a shop that does triangle windows w/o removing trim or charging extra)
  
• New tires
  
• New lightweight wheels (something flow formed - Neuspeed/Konig/etc)
  
• Add a rear lip/spoiler
  
• Hardwire a dash cam (highly recommend this) or radar detector.
  
• Drop in panel air filter like AFe DryFlo/Remove snow catcher in intake
  
• Automatic hatch pop kit (USP's kit is best), though they're sort of meh and require extra force to close.
  
• OBDEleven
  
  Some would say JB4. I would fall into that group since it is removable before any necessary dealer visits.
  
  Invest in oil change supplies because it's so simple on this car and you can save yourself a good bit of money vs paying someone. Buy some things in bulk and you won't have to worry about not having them when the time comes and you'll save some cash. I have 2 MK7s and by doing this, my changes cost me about $30-35/ea and take me about 20 minutes, which is less time than most people will spend driving to the dealership.
  
  
• Fluid Extractor or catch pan.
  
• 4 Pack of Plugs Replacement oil pan plugs if you're doing catch pan drain method vs extractor.
  
• 3-pack VW Genuine oil filters
  
• Mobil1 0w-40 VW502.00 Spec Motor oil rebate is ongoing through October. You can get 10L for about $24 give or take. Walmart has them for $22.xx per 5L jug. NAPA also recently had singles for $5/ea, may still be ongoing.

Cheap, easy, and butt dyno approved:

• snorkel delete (free, but pointless without a high-flow air filter)
  
• AEM AE-20993 Dryflow air filter ($41 from Amazon)
  
• add an FSWERKS polyurethane insert to the rear motor mount ($13 from Amazon)
  
• lunchbox delete (ie. remove the muffler, costs about $20-25 to extend and redirect the exhaust pipe)
  
• enable Sport mode via FORscan (free if you already have an ELM327 OBDII USB adapter with MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch, though you would need to put in a SelectShift knob and possibly do some re-wiring if you wanted manual control over shifting)
  
  Are you going to turn your SE into an ST? Nope. But hey, you're spending about $80. You could throw another $462 at Tom's tune (comes with an SCT X4 tuner, which is why it's so expensive). It will improve performance; whether or not that improvement is worth the money is up to you. It might also help with shudder if you have it (and if you don't yet, you will, so get ready).

Thank you good sir ! Found on Amazon !
Thanks to you .
https://www.amazon.com/Camshaft-Control-Solenoid-LINCOLN-Solenoids/dp/B01MTRAY12

I have one on my motorcycle. It's actually made specifically for motor oil. It's pretty nice. It allows me to more easily change the oil without taking off fairings.

This one looks like it might just be from a hardware store, though. Not a great idea.

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

What i don't like is that 12.9 and 10.9 bolts have different torque values. And tensile strength.
Maybe the 12 means something different? I did some googling and the head bolts i found were 10.9, so i think the original is also 10.9. With a weird 12 stamped on them.

12.9 is also less resistant to vibrations, so 10.9 for head bolts makes sense.

https://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-GS33750-Engine-Cylinder/dp/B01GAHIWYC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_0/132-0352958-7032165?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWFANWJ9P1C62ZXQJ3P6

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cylinder-Head-Bolt-Set-HONDA-CIVIC-1-4-1-4I-16V-1-5I-16V-1-6I-VTEC-1-5-16V/352263279120?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda&hash=item5204871210:g:Xu4AAOSwGThbXdMr (these are not for you car, but 10.9)

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I think you are good. When torquing them down, follow the manual to a fucking T.

Good thing it's only like 20 bolts to get to it. The plastic manifold likes to warp too, and a dorman replacement with all the gaskets is only $80 on Amazon. http://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-615-180-Intake-Manifold/dp/B000C17G5E

My OEM BPV was developing a small leak so I went online and purchased one of these. Doesn't really do anything special but it definitely seals up nice.

There are other ones out there but this one was the most reasonably priced options I could find.

My 01 did this to me but was also misfiring too. I ended up replacing oil control filter valve and the variable valve timing solenoid.

It's a super easy diy job and parts were ~$80.

Essentially, my variable valve timing was off because either the filter was blocked or the solenoid failed. This cause the misfires and the engine and traction light.

These are the parts I bought (you'd have to verify they fit your 02)

Dorman OE Solutions 917-288 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGSJYH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3ZPYAbAXQG9GV

Toyota 15678-46020 Oil Control Valve Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TNNQHRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_10PYAbK1FZ4AW

These are the pistons in that picture:

http://www.amazon.com/Enginetech-P1505-Piston-5-7L-Dish/dp/B00CLX50YK

from this company: http://enginetech.com/

Those are probably the cheapest 'rebuilder' grade pistons you are going to find. Think of it as 'contractor grade' building supplies- the bare minimally acceptable quality.. However it is very likely that it is better than what Ford put in there in 1970 and will last just as long as they did. Casting and machining technology has progressed a lot in the last 40 years.

Mellings, Hastings, and Victor-Reinz are also in that generic GM350 picture. Those are all reputable, basic/standard brands. However that may not be what you get since that is a generic picture. For $20 more, I quickly found this one from summit-

http://summitracing.com/search/department/engines-components/section/engine-kits-rotating-assemblies/make/ford/engine-size/6-4l-390/price-range/250-500

Shop around some more. There is better stuff out there for not much more money.

My '07 base 2.5i Outback has the ring of fire.

Best I have been able to do is use an oil filter socket attachment with an extension and to slightly angle the socket handle upwards so gravity does its thing and just lets it pour down the extension and off the wrench head.

That with a Fumoto valve makes it the cleanest and easiest oil change I have ever done.

Pretty sure it's this one. I'm sure there's a 1A auto youtube video showing how to install it. Worst case scenario there's like 3 parts in this system that total up to like $100.

You should be using a piggyback drain plug. The steel plugs will easily strip aluminum pans, so having a piggy back plug makes it so you're never moving the threads attached to the pan, just the small bolt inside of the plug. Oil drains a bit slower, but definitely worth it, in exchange for not stripping your pan.

I would do both sides, yes. That way they are both done, and you don't have to worry about either of them.

Technically anywhere in the window is okay, but I would try to get them as close as possible to each other, and to the middle of the spec (0.15mm). The shim diameter for the DRZ is 9.48mm. So if you decide to get aftermarket shims, like Hotcams or Wiseco, that is the diameter you want.

That said, aftermarket shims typically only come in sizes of 0.05mm, whereas I think OEM Suzuki are 0.03mm. So you could get an aftermarket 1.85mm, OEM suzuki might be 1.86mm or something.

I bought a hotcams shim kit because where I live there are no motorcycle shops nearby that stock these shims and I am impatient, lol. So now when I do my next valve check, if I need to change, I can do it immediately. Overkill, because i'll probably never use half the shims in it.

Here is a 5pk of the 9.48mm/1.85mm Hotcam shims on Amazon.

You'll see that the part # is 5PK948185, because it is a 5 pack of 9.48mm x 1.85mm shims. So if you needed say, 2.70mm shims for your other intake just search for 5PK948270, even on google it will bring up a lot of places that sell them, so there might be a place nearby.

Rockauto shows the 4cyl being Dorman # 594137, no listing for the '87 6 cyl. The Dorman site shows that part# only being good for the '83-93 4cyl, so it looks like they're different parts. It looks like RockAuto has the one you need for $66 though.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1987,wrangler,2.5l+150cid+l4,1184655,engine,harmonic+balancer,5512

Amazon has one left, prime shipping, $75. One review from a guy that says it didn't work on his '86 CJ7 2.5

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-594-137-Harmonic-Balancer/dp/B000CGIQW6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dorman+594137&qid=1567807150&s=gateway&sr=8-1

O'Reillys also lists the right part as being a Dorman 594-137, $75

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/engine-parts---mounts-16774/harmonic-balancer-12131/62c82173a71f/1987/jeep/wrangler?q=harmonic+balancer

Crown shows the same part for the 2.5 and 4.2
https://www.crownautomotive.net/Crankshaft-Damper/J3242886.html

and Amazon has that one for $57+$14 shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-J3242886-Crankshaft-Damper/dp/B009X1QS8K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=J3242886&qid=1567807218&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Doesn't look like it should be impossible to find. I'd probably order it from O'Reillys so I could take my old one in and compare.

Get something like this and install it on the pipe between the intercooler and throttle body.

https://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Valve-Flange-Adapter-Type-S/dp/B00U4A3GGG

Make sure the flange matches what you have currently

I'd recommend against modifying the intercooler.

Although, I have not purchased this yet, it is in my cart for my next oil change. With it, you can attach a hose to the plug and it will direct the oil directly in the disposal container. I feel like it is going to make oil changes a much more pleasant experience

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AMXAVX0/?coliid=IXENUG68AZZYJ&colid=QSUTONY162IF&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

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I have a different pan that doesn't splash. Maybe if you inserted a large funnel in the hole, raised the pan and placed the pan such that the initial fast stream hit the funnel there would be no splashing. You could make a large funnel by cutting the bottom off of a gallon jug of oil (or milk, etc)

already exists