(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best building supplies

Cost Analysis

Tent Setup

$70 2' x 4' x 5' Mylar tent

• Holding up well, easy build. Is not 100% dark, light leaks outwards from spots along the zipper and pinholes but no light leak into the tent during dark. Perfect size for my light.
  
  
  $325 Lights: Horticulture Lighting Group 260 QB LED Kit
  
  
• I cannot say enough about these lights. I had to run them anywhere from 50-75% during veg to prevent light burn. Great coverage for a 2x4 tent. Nothing but praise 10/10 would buy again.
  
  
  Climate Control
  
  $100 ($90 + $10)4" Inline duct fan and Carbon Filter + Ducting/clamps from ACE
  
  
• This puppy can SUCK, I have to keep it on the lowest setting to prevent the pressure inside the tent from dropping (need to work on my passive intake next grow). Carbon filter works great. Lowers humidity in a pinch. It keeps my humidity at or below 50%, which is what it maxes out at after a watering.
  
  
  $21 Osculating Fan Purchased on a flash deal
  
  
• I have it elevated about 3-4 inches on a box. Running and osculating 24/7. It pushes air, not a jet engine though.
  
  Already on hand: Box Fan
  
  
• Had one from years ago. Sometimes I open the tent and blast this on high right on level with the buds just go shake out the leaves, gets a bit crowded in the scrog and I'd like to eliminate any humidity caught between leaves sticking together. Think you can scoop one from Walmart for like $15 bucks, $20 max. I also have room at the right edge of my tent where I normally keep the oscilating fan to drop this in and use it in a humidity pinch.
  
  $25 [Humidifier] (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sunbeam-Warm-Mist-Humidifier-SWM6000-BWM/32664862)
  
  
• This puppy does well. I use the first setting, usually can run 16+ hours on a full reservoir of H20. No filter which keeps cost down, just need to clean it one or twice a week with a brush for the hard water deposits. 5-10 minute process.
  
  $45 Dehumidifier
  
  
• This was a bit of a mistake purchase. I wanted to test and see if a small model offered on amazon (this looked to be one of the best for sub $50, and has the biggest holding tank out of them all) could put in any kind of noticeable work in a tent. What I noticed is that it will be able to roughly maintain humidity at times, after I run the exhaust fan to lower the levels. When the lights are out and the temperature drops, this thing has no chance. Go with a full size dehumidifier or rely on the dry Colorado air + passive intake + duct fan. I was struggling with humidity issues during the cold of the winter, now that I can have my windows open my ambient room humidity is usually 40% or below.
  
  $18 4" inline duct booster fan
  
  
• Also a mistake purchase. Does not move a lot of air. Had plans to use this for an airflow/passive (not) intake system but it's not worth the electricity cost to run this thing. I'd stay away.
  
  
  Meters (Ph, PPM, Soil, Temp and Humidity)
  
  $18 Hygrometer for Temp/Humidity
  
  
• Worth it to get the wireless monitor so you're not opening the tent all the time)
  
  $13 Ph Meter
  
  
• Great little Meter. Calibrated nicely and seems to be holding true. Details about storage below under the calibration Solution
  
  $12 TDS PPM meter
  
  
• Quick measurements, came with a little leather storage pouch. Can't recommend against it.
  
  $9 Soil Moisture, Light, Ph meter
  
  
• Does it's job well, reads soil Ph and moisture well and pretty instantaneously. I wouldn't recommend it for getting detailed light readings but it responds correctly.
  
  
  Ph Control and Calibration
  
  $9 Ph Control Kit
  
  $14 Ph Calibration solution
  
  
• For calibration/life of the tip:I store the tip in a bit of 7.0 solution that I pour into the cap. Good to have on hand for calibration.
  
  
  
  Plants / Growing Medium
  
  $80 Clones - $20 from dispensary. here's a link to the strain page and the clone page. Don't believe seeds are available.
  
  $8 for 6ct 5 gal Smart Pot knockoff
  
  
• Do their job, hold up well. I cut the handles off to make watering under the scrog easier.
  
  $40 - Soil: Two bags of Happy Frog purchased from the local grow store. Ocean forest was sitting around.
  
  $7 for 30ct Starter grow bags
  
  
• Do not recommend, breathe terribly, water stagnates even with modifications. Had to feed lightly and often, and really monitor dampness. Needed these for the outdoor garden anyways)
  
  $14 - Scrog net: I believe it was a 25 or a 50ft roll of 1"x1" plastic garden fencing from Home Depot.
  
  
• Unfortunately I can't find a link but it's pretty common. I cut out the middles to make them 2"x2" openings, 1x1 seems very difficult to work with and would block a lot of light.
  
  
  Nutrients
  
  $100: Cyco 1 Litre Bottles
  
  
• I have a local grow shop that I purchased a lot of these from. The 1 litre Cyco nutrient bottles ranged from $10-$18 and I have 7 different nutrients, call it $100
  
  
• Vegetative State: Grow A & B + Dr. Repair + Silica
  
  
• Flowering State: Bloom A & B + Potash Plus (+ Dr Repair and Silica every other feeding)
  
  $20: Key To Life - Uptake
  
  
• Great for calcium uptake. Was told that this could basically replace calmag.
  
  $45 Cyco Grow XL Super Phosphoric Acid
  
  
• Definitely an 'extra', not cheap for 100ml but I think the potential yield improvement from this phosphorous bomb will cover that cost, especially over 3-4 grows which I expect to get out of the bottle. Also states it helps with Fe, N and K uptake.
  
  
  
  Miscelaneous Stuff:
  
  $15 - random stuff from Walmart, etc.
  
• Eyedroppers, duct tape, zip ties
  
  $6 Spray Bottles
  
  
• Did not use these much, only very early during transplanting
  
  
  
  So to total that all out we're looking just over $1000 that I spent.
  
  
• Could have kept it under $950 if I had not purchased the small duct fan or dehumidifier.
  
• Also: Soil and nutrients for $205. Could work that down to under $150 by dropping a couple unnecessary yet desirable nutrients.
  
  
  

LED lightbulbs, Home Depot has some that are 2 for $5 that are plenty bright and dimmable.

Get some lamps too, put LED bulbs in em. All you really need most of the time is 1-2 lamps providing light instead of the overhead lights.

While it was an absolute nessesity for my apartment since it has a tiny water heater, a low flow shower head like this (and I actually had that one, i loved it but i got a room mate and they didn't) or at least a valve to kill the water when you're soaping up like this one. Saves hot water when others need to shower, as well as saving water in general.

A window shrink-wrap kit like this one can keep the cool air in in the summer and out in the winter.

While heading on the extreme side, if your door seals as crappily as mine does Magnetic weatherstripping will keep a nice seal around your door keeping the conditioned air inside and bugs outside.

Making sure to clean the lint trap after every use is important. If you own the drier, you could also remove the back panel (unplug it first!) and clean the whole duct.

putting some outlet insulation under your outside-facing wall plate-covers will help.

If you have central air, ask your landlord if the filter is your responsibility. If it is, make sure to replace it every 30-60 days. I would recommend a Filtrete filter, since I like being able to breathe when I wake up on a high-pollen day. If you have a terminal A/C unit make sure that you clean the filter well, using a little OxyClean to get it fully clean is a good idea. Some evaporator cleaner may be needed if the metal intake fins behind the filter are dirty.

If you do have a terminal system, it may also be worth it to use safer styles of space heater instead of the terminal's heat pump. The heat pump on mine is crap.

Asking your landlord to clean your drier's wet air outlet will prevent fires, decrease drying time, and save money.

That's all I can think of.

Lights: I have the mars hydro 300 (132 true watts) as my main light on the top, and plan to add a couple strips for side lighting in the near future.

Ventilation: As you may see from the pictures, I have the heat exhaust on the top side. The exhaust is being pulled into a secondary tote. In the secondary tote I have a large carbon filter attached to a 6 inch inline fan with variable speed control. This kit. Definitely overkill but I like the room for expansion.

I plan to start growing in a 3 gallon smart pot knock off, with some ak-48 autoflower seeds.

I have really enjoyed watching this community grow through the years.

Thank you everyone for your wonderful contributions. Guys like /u/Ekrof, SAG, /u/Halfmpty, /u/exactly25smeckles, and the rest have really inspired me to try this for myself.

I would like to add some filtration to my passive intake, any suggestions?

Not OP...but I have a bunch of plant grow lights for my houseplants and can answer

If you go to Amazon and search SANSI full spectrum grow lights, you can find an assortment of sizes and wattages. I have a couple in the 30 watt range and they are amazing lights

Then you simply have to get a medium to large clamp on shop light and aim the lamp wherever you want the light to go.

These sansi bulbs are also pretty light weight. I currently have one just hanging from the ceiling over my palm so it gets as much light as it needs to stay big and healthy. And its bright enough so that plants in the room also get some ambient light.

Ive also had really good luck with this clamp on light. I chose this one because its bright, its white full spectrum light, and it doesn't come with a built in timer.

I plug my grow lights into WIFI outlet plugs so I can custom set the schedule depending on the day of the week.

Other tips. The pink style grow lights tend to have good results with young growing plants. You can get the clamp on LED versions all over Amazon. But I have had better over all luck with full spectrum white LED lamps. Plus the pink light just doesn't feel as nice as full spectrum white.

In the deep winter, those full spectrum lamps can really give you the feeling of sunlight...which helps with happiness

That's a lot of money for a fan. You could always get a cheaper fan that moves more cfm and simply get a fan silencer. You would still save money at that rate and spend the rest on an enclosed hood or cool tube to help with temperature control.

Overall you're good.

Fan Silencer (out of stock at the moment, but cheaper): http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-FS-6-Muffler-Silencer/dp/B00HWILBSS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225496&sr=8-3&keywords=fan+silencer

Fan silencer (more expensive, but in stock): http://www.amazon.com/Phresh-701200-Silencer-4-Inch-12-Inch/dp/B007ZU5YQS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225496&sr=8-6&keywords=fan+silencer

Hood Upgrade: http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-GLRLS24-Hydroponic-Reflector/dp/B00BMVK8HG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225652&sr=8-1&keywords=air+cooled+hood

Fan and Carbon Scrubber Replacements: http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-IF6-CF6-B-Controller/dp/B0051HDECS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225799&sr=8-1&keywords=ventech+vt+if6

If you're going to be flowering in the tent, I would recommend lightproofing it, as well. Use only the ports in your tent for intake and cut some carbon filters to size. http://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Pre-Filter-38002-Activated-Sheets/dp/B00LXIWNT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225982&sr=8-1&keywords=carbon+filter+sheet

Your tent is a little expensive, too. If that's the one you have your heart set on, go for it. As an alternative, I suggest http://www.amazon.com/MILLIARD-Reflective-Hydroponic-Mylar-Window/dp/B00ETBDX14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450226158&sr=8-1&keywords=milliard+grow+tent

You will want a fan or two of some kind to circulate air inside the tent. 6 Inch clip fans are popular. I use a pair of 4 inch clip fans and a tower fan.

Make sure to look into a DIY Ona Bucket for smells. During flower it will stink up your room when you open the tent. Just turn the Ona bucket on a little before that and you're good. If you're really paranoid about smell, you can also get an inline carbon scrubber. They're pretty expensive and probably not necessary unless you pick some especially fragrant strains. http://www.amazon.com/Phresh-500-Inline-Filter-6-Inch/dp/B00CJIMUH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450226390&sr=8-1&keywords=phresh+inline

That's my $.02, anyway. There are much more experienced growers here.

Thank you for this write-up.

This is the Gila film that I installed on my window. I'm not sure how that compares to the titanium, but I may look into upgrading to the titanium film if the difference is dramatic enough. I'm assuming this film is safe for my patio door?

I'll definitely look into thermal curtains. I've thought about doing something like this, essentially trying to keep the heat trapped in the area between my curtains and the door or putting something in the space my patio door sits to try to insulate that area better.

Unfortunately my AC unit is virtually new... I just had it installed less than two years ago. I'm curious what the seasonal efficiency rating is... I do know that he made some adjustments to what I previously had to account for the fact that I'm on the third floor and my unit gets a lot of sun exposure.

I'll have to look into an evaporative cooler. My place is pretty small, so it doesn't take much to cool it. If it weren't for the fact that I lived on the third floor and my unit baked like an oven during the hottest days of the summer, my power bill during the summer would be negligible because it would take so little to cool it. If I could put one of those units in the room at night for sleeping that may be worth it.

Thanks again for this write-up. It gives me a lot of ideas to look into.

http://www.amazon.com/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406364384&sr=8-4&keywords=Window+tint

Just installed this at my dad's new office. I can't speak to the day version but this has a shiny reflective feeling to it that didn't let me look in. In the middle of application I walked outside on a bright 90* Fahrenheit day and looked at the window my dad was working on. You could easily see him quite clearly in the section that did not have tint. The other half of the window did have the film and just reflected my view so I would see clouds and the sky BUT I saw the light fixture in the office. I did NOT see him. Not even a shadowy figure. Just a head shaped object(that from my angle looked like clouds and the blue sky) covered up a portion of the light fixture. Any window film should be a great help and I doubt you'll have a bad experience with any window film unless you get a transparent one. I say go for the type of tint that you would like to have in that location. Black? Slight blue or green tinge to it? Reflective like a mirror? I'm sure you've seen the different styles in cars. Hell, some are even red! There are two ratings usually given to window film. Heat index and light index. I'm guessing you want the one that does not allow much light to enter or one with a reflective material which I personally believe is the best option for a house. Black tint works better for a car in my personal opinion.

I'm glad that video helped you decide to do sound treatment, but frankly it's a terrible video. He is well intentioned and seems like he is doing some decent things but is woefully off base.

He confuses sound isolation from sound absorption (acoustic treatment). They work totally differently, and his microphone tests are, sadly, a farce. Stick a thin piece of sheetrock in between the sound source and the microphone, and it will block sound better than anything in his test. But does that make sheetrock good for sound absorption? Heck no.

The reasons the towels work better than foam in his test is because they do a better job blocking sound. But what works best for sound absorption used in acoustic room treatments? His tests, and yours show that towels DO work to absorb sound and reduce reverb (echo). But are they the best materials? No.

The standard DIY materials for sound absorption are Owens Corning 703or 705, or Roxul/Rockswool rockboard, in various thickness, though 2" is probably the most common. These have been tested along with other cost effective materials to be the primary goto items for sound absorption. Also sound diffusion panels are often very useful, especially to the rear of the listening position.

Sheetrock on the other hand, because of its density, is great for blocking sound waves. If for example, you were trying to "soundproof" a room - heavy sheetrock is a staple of cost-effective approaches, combined with isolation clips and damping. The mass helps to stop stubborn low frequency waves.

The towels will indeed work as you've found out, and can be done pretty cheaply, especially if you have enough on hand. But don't go thinking that what this guy's video showed was reasonable.

/sorry, rant mode off/

Putting them outside right away can be bad for a few reasons. They’re delicate and sensitive to intense light, changes in temperature, gusting wind, and predators. They do not have the strength or root systems in place yet to recover from any environmental stress. Unless you get very lucky with weather and the cosmos are aligned juuuust right, you might be in for a rough time. Getting leggy is definitely a possibility with them being inside and not having a grow light, but you can always bury the stems pretty deeply when you transplant them and are ready to put them out. Your window isnt ideal, but it’s probably still a better bet at this time. You can also find a pretty cheap grow light option if you have $ 15 to spare. Here’s an entry level fixture for a nice CFL grow bulb. It’s $10 on amazon prime with free shipping. You can also find these at the hardware store, or a discount store like big lots (I got em for 5-8$ there)

https://www.amazon.com/Woods-0169-8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt/dp/B009ONXWC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523460361&sr=8-3&keywords=Clip+shop+light&dpID=41EfPZ5XphL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Simple CFL grow bulbs in the 6500K “daylight” spectrum. 4 pack of bulbs for $15. You can look around for cheaper ones, but just try to find the highest wattage equivalent you can, at 6500K spectrum.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-433557-100-watt-Equivalent-Bright/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1523460444&sr=1-4&keywords=CFL+6500k&dpID=41aqLa5KpiL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

With the thermal insulation, get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS (Doesn't necessarily have to be that exact one -- Promise, I'm not a shill for the company! ;) ) Get a little crafty and you can cut and origami it with duct tape to fit the back of your tank and part of the sides (and whatever else you need) perfectly.

Best substrate is generally 5:1 play sand to eco earth -- looks like you have a lot of eco earth in there. This makes it more difficult for crabs to make tunnels and molt appropriately, but others have kept crabs just fine with only eco earth so YMMV.

Rocks in the bottom of the dishes aren't necessary if you have ramps. I have a 2.5 gallon pool with only a ramp and the crabs are just fine! They live near the ocean and deep pools -- they can spend easily half an hour underwater and aren't going to drown out of stupidity :)

I'd recommend filling the big open space with a little more in the way of hidey holes or stuff for climbing. I really like strawgrass reptile hammocks/lizard loungers, which can be rolled up into all sorts of shapes and huts and things for hermit crab adventures!

Like others have said, stop misting! Get a glass top if you don't already have one, and with the bubblers your humidity should be fine. Misting will cause bacterial blooms, water pooling, and all sorts of problems (I ruined my first tank setup within a couple weeks because of it...).

Everything else looks good to me!

This advice has been shared with me by people with decades of combined experience, who record sample libraries professionally.

For recording the best/most flexible samples, your goals are:

• as "dry" as possible.
  
  
• absolutely the lowest noise floor possible.
  
  When you stack sound effects, the noise stacks with them. It may sound great as a single sample, until you stack 4 or more, then the noise is pretty audible. So you want clean preamps in a quiet space.
  
  Convolution software these days is flexible enough to let you put any sound in any environment realistically. Try to minimize the sound of the room as much as possible. This stuff is great for building isolation booths, make sure to cover it with felt or something though
  
  I'd recommend getting a handheld recorder like the Sony D100 (or older D50), the sound quality is great and has an extremely low noise floor. Excellent preamps.
  
  If you had more of a budget, I'd recommend going with a few Neumann TLM 102 or 103, and a sound devices recorder. That would give you the absolute lowest noise and best sound quality. This is what we use, and have gone through much trial and error.
  
  TL;DR For your budget, get the Sony D100

just want to chime in here, I was in the same boat as you. Starting out as just an experiment seeing if I could actually sprout a seed, turned into a dedicated project :p But I can tell you I didn't have any idea with like lights, tents, air filters etc. So first thing I bought was this LED , but a better option would be this Viparspectra (the one I bought though has been just fine) and just hung it in my closet with the plant, and that's it. veg'ed it for 4 weeks just like that with the light on a timer and my closet door closed. (get a little desk fan to to move some air over the leaves) Then I figured I'd switch to flower, and was kinda on the edge about investing in a tent and carbon filter. but every thread I read about smell, veterans would always say "It's gonna smell a lot!" So I bit the bullet and got a 2x2x4 tent and this carbon filter and fan . You can probably use your DIY carbon filter just fine. Anyway, long story short, I started to flower and literally two days later I walk into my house after work and the smell just hits me. And this is just one plant. So definitely invest in that stuff. But as for the PC fan, unfortunately it's not going to have enough static pressure to force air through a carbon filter. You don't have to go with the one I got, like brotha said the duct boosters will work too. If you have any question let me know cause I relate very well to your situation, except I've now been halfway through the process lol. pm me if you want

Making a simple but effective IH is so cheap and easy every Dynavap owner should do it.

IH instructions:

Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).
Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

Sounds like something like this may do what you want, but I do not believe it will come cheap.

I currently have 2 thermostats in my home, one for AC/heat, and one for just heat. I swapped them both out for these wifi thermostats, which are programmable from a web interface or smartphone app. You can easily set the temperature from your phone, rather than having to visit each individual thermostat to change temperatures. This will likely be a much more cost effective solution to what you want to do.

If you must have smart thermostats, you could do the same with their smart thermostat versions or Ecobee as opposed to having a smart hub with remote sensors.

>Since the wiring for the heat and a/c are in two different places

I had the same situation in my house. What I wound up doing is running a new T-stat wire from the air handler in my attic down to the location of the thermostat for the heater. This allowed me to combine a separate AC and heat t-stat into a single t-stat.

• Night or dusk might work, better especially if there's any kind of interesting view out that window. If not it's okay to blow it out a little. Try a few shots in the evening when the incoming light won't be so harsh that it distorts the area around the blinds. Open then a bit so that the light bounces up to the ceiling. Try a few different angles and see what works best
  
  
• Start by setting up softer light. See that hard shadow from the desk lamp? It looks like a ceiling fan light which is pretty hard light; and a little too warm (orange). It'd be nice to diffuse that and use a cooler, whiter/bluer bulb. You can play with these cheap reflector combos that have a translucent inner section that you can shoot light through to make it a much "bigger" source of light, thus softer shadows. You can rig that up and play around with it and see what that gives you. If your walls aren't white, the cold daylight CFL bulbs can add some color to the room by bouncing off those wall colors
  
  
• For an even bigger light source, bring in a couple white-ish CFL bulbs and point them at the ceiling with one or two clip lights. Any DIY rig is fine as long as you are bouncing the light of of the walls or the ceiling to make a bigger light source
  
  
• Switch the headphone stand with the plant and turn on the desk lamp to shine light on it. You might need a less powerful bulb or a dimmer switch of some kind to match the exposure
  
  
• You could go for a more dramatic image by waiting until night, and using those clip lights and foil to make spotlights (snoots) and really control where areas are illuminated. Use cellophane or a cheap pack of gels for colors if you're into that.
  
  
• Check out a YouTube channel called "workphlo." Dude is a master of quick, "easy," DIY studio lighting and editing tutorials. It's very inspiring to play with lights and compositing in Photoshop/Gimp

Absolutely! Happy to provide any details you want. My equipment list is on my website here

On my walls are home-made panels made of OC703, they hang on the walls like picture frames and are non-permanent. I can take more detailed shots of them, if you want.

I recorded this with a Sennheiser 416 shotgun mic, which is my current Go-To mic. I was practically eating it for this recording, cause I wanted an in-your-face sound, but normally I'm about 10 inches off the mic.

The audio goes into Reaper, and I have a few default plugins activated for every track I record. I have them in this order: Gate, deesser, EQ, Compressor, Limiter. I found that the order matters, I use EQ to roll off some bass, and a little bit right in the "S" sound frequency, because the compressor is going to come right in and boost them. I think it sounds better to cut them before the compressor does it's thing. The limiter is at the end to make sure I stay under Amazon ACX guidelines for -3db peaks.

Again, happy to provide any further details you're interested in. If you want more gory details about how I have things set up, just ask. I could talk about this all day!

I’m not actually a fan expert, I just play one on the internet.

Yes, I think using multiple fans I think just helps even the airflow in a space.

Most people use a fan speed controller like this.

It allows for infinite speed adjustment which is nice to balance noise and airflow.

(I Think) the impeller design of the first two fans helps them move air efficiently when ducting and filters are causing resistance. While the more typical propeller like design of the last fan has trouble dealing with that, and just causes turbulence and decreased efficiency.

Also the impeller design should be much quieter.

Reflectix is this shiny insulation stuff (similar to a car sun visor) you can get at hardware stores. It's really easy to work with and makes great insulated cozys or bags for dehydrated meals.

Here's a quick tutorial on how to make them, again it's pretty straightforward - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FTln2_5Pgo

This is reflectix, if you are decently crafty it's pretty straight forward to make a little thing to put a tupperware in to keep it warm -
https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496262196&sr=1-1

and Here is the type of tupperware I was mentioning, I've used them as a bowl on many trips and they have always worked great (they have 2 different sizes) - https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Twist-Containers-Small-Lids/dp/B003UEGZCA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496262262&sr=8-2

Hi, I had a similar problem. Everything out there seemed ridiculously expensive, so I built my own solution. Essentially, it's a nice pictureframe wall-art looking thing that has soundproofing baffles (Auralex Studiofoam) on it. Very cheap but very effective - our bedroom is like a tomb when these things are hung and bonus: they're easy to hang and remove as needed.

Update: I would likely use these boards now instead of the Auralex, after learning a bit about soundproofing materials.

Hope this helps. :)

Those windows may be old enough not to have a coating at all. I'd suggest applying some heat control window film to the inside of the glass, which will reflect both UV and infrared light, as well as a portion of the visible light to reduce glare. Gila Platinum is a great option, they also have it in a non-adhesive peel-and-stick version, though it's harder to install.

Check if they truly are single-pane by holding up your phone's flashlight or other bright point of light and seeing how many reflections appear in the window. If it looks like a mirror it's a single-pane, if you see two reflections it's double-pane. If it's a single-pane window it is definitely worth replacing with a good double-pane window. If it's already double-pane then it probably isn't worth replacing unless it has a metal frame, just use window film and try to seal up any air leaks.

It's actually pretty simple. At it's most basic, try this comment from /u/improvaper


https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/a4xzkk/finally_jumped_on_the_dynavap_bandwagon_and_got/ebij6op


Make an induction heater! It's cheap and easy. I've been blasting my instructions everywhere around here lately. If you're interested, let me know and I'll blast them again here. :)

It's definitely worth the (extremely little) effort.

Edit: blasting:

I made mine for about $30 with parts available on Amazon:

Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's standard screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).

Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009ONXWC2/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should invest in lamps like those. Use a 40-60 watt bulb (halogen, not LED) and keep the cord out of reach (they can and will chew through it, often without any side effects besides the occasional weird little scorch mark on the beak).

Your birds can handle almost any temperature you feel comfortable in (unless we're talking certain finch species). Just be sure there are no breezes on them. If you feel like they are cold, use a lamp like above set to one side of their cage so they can get out from under it if they get too warm.
If for some reason (super cold winters, bad heating in home, etc) your home gets below 55 Fahrenheit, those lamps will provide the warmth they need.
The lamps are also extremely useful for keeping a recently bathed bird warm while they dry, or an ill bird warm. A sick bird needs warmth so it can focus on using its energy to heal itself instead of struggling to keep warm.

Of course, there is nothing wrong with keeping them warmer than the rest of your house! Just be careful with space heaters, and make sure they are made for indoor use and cannot set anything on fire.

[Edit: accidently posted before finished!]

Thanks! I looked at this one but the pics seem like it wouldnt be bright (size and such) so to hear some feedback is really good! Thinking of getting a small light like that one then a bigger stand with like double lights. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YW2C8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Like that one

Those three seem like a pretty good start.

I'd also get an internal air circulation fan like this or this, and a fan speed controller for your main ventilation fan so it doesn't always have to be on 100% super loud full blast all day.

Are you growing in soil or hydro? Do you have your nutrients, soil or grow media, and pots or net buckets picked out already too?

To add more detail to what u/mwwalk pointed out, you can install homebridge (https://github.com/nfarina/homebridge) on a raspberry pi and use the homebridge-chamberlain plugin (https://github.com/caseywebdev/homebridge-chamberlain#readme). This is a lower cost alternative to purchasing the MyQ Home Bridge ($97 on Amazon) but requires a level of comfort in using an rpi and linux command line.

Raspberry pi homebridge helps to add non-HomeKit accessories into HomeKit. At some point in the past, Chamberlain/LiftMaster did not have a HomeKit option.

My garage door opener setup is not exactly the same as yours... I have a non-WiFi Chamberlain but added a MyQ Smart Hub (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075H7Z5L8) purchased on discount for $20 to add in WiFi capability.

I've linked in my Ring cameras, Plex, and other stuff as well, so this approach with rpi homebridge was greater value for the time, money, effort.

​

edit: fixed the link to the chamberlain plugin

Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but Reflectix is pretty close. I've used it to keep my pot hot and make it easier to hold after cooking, it's decent, but not thermos level insulation.

https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-48-Inch-10-Feet-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS

If you ever order groceries online (like from Amazon Fresh or Prime Now), you can get this stuff for free from the bags they put your groceries in

This is the one I bought on prime day for $25, pretty awesome so far, you can even set schedules and alerts. App Pretty user friendly and it was easy to set up.

+1 for Honeywell, but no need for a "smart" thermostat for this. The only benefit you're missing out with a regular wifi is the "learning" capabilities of the smart unit. A simple wifi unit will be controllable from your phone, and are a fraction of the cost of the smart units.

These units are currently $90, but I've regularly seen them or similar units on sale for ~$80. Take a look at your local big box and see if they have any deals.

Another thing to check is to see if your utility providers offer any sort of rebates or incentives for smart or wifi thermostats.

Keep in mind that a lot of smart or wifi thermostats require a common wire, so if you have dont have one and don't have the extra wire you may need to run a new wire.

So I recently added this fan & filter combo, which I must say was MUCH larger than I had anticipated, and has had an immediate effect on my RH. I went from about 35% to around 16% in a couple hours. Shortly after, my flowering plants are showing twisted and drooping leaves. Can this be the cause?

The Aussie Blues is 90% Sativa and already had drooping leaves closest to the flower, but no twisting. Note that the plant looks healthy otherwise, all the leaves have a nice even color and are perky. Do certain strains look like this when flowering?

Also it is growing a lot of popcorn, should I trim this off before it develops more?

Thanks for the input, guys.

that's a duct booster. it won't have the power to properly exhaust your tent, especially if you're using that filter. i would look at something more like this. i can't vouch for that fan, but it will be a lot better than the booster.
in terms of pushing or pulling, i've been told it's better to pull through the filter than to push, idk, maybe something to do with how long the carbon will stay effective. i personally have my tent setup to push through mine right now, as the fan is a lot smaller than the filter so i elected to put the filter outside. either works tbh.

Giantex Indoor Grow Tent Room Reflective Mylar Hydroponic Non Toxic Clone Hut 6 Size (32''X32''X63'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PXK7ICK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UhVuybY2C4CHS

Roleadro 2nd Generation 600W LED Plant Grow Light Upgraded Full Spectrum Indoor Growing Light with 120pcs 5W Chips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVQ96MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_diVuybHJCV7XV

VIVOSUN 4 Inch 203 CFM Duct Inline Fan with Variable Speed Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTM0H6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BiVuybSGHVZTE

Century 24 Hour Heavy Duty Plug-in Mechanical Timer Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nkVuybNGBW6PS

MacDoDo PH-02 Digital PH Meter Tester Best For Water Aquarium Pool Hot Tub Hydroponics Wine - Push Button Calibration Resolution 0.01 / High Accuracy +/- 0.05 - Large LCD Display - 100% Guaranteed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOHTMEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MkVuybZ08V91M

VIVOSUN Pair of 1/8" Adjustable Grow Light Reflector Clip Hanger Rope Ratchet with Zinc Alloy Internal Gears 75lb Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7TZNPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nlVuyb1Q8670K

This is my setup, my fan is coming in today and my seedlings sprouted this morning. I did quite a bit of research and The light is a little underpowered but I was on a pretty tight budget and can always add more light later.
I spent $40 on seeds and super soil mix from Mephisto genetics, going a more organic route and won't require nutes.
I also spent about $30 on peat moss, perlite, and compost. I already had some ducting and pots.

I would stick with using a fan. The trick is you cannot just put a computer fan blowing upwards into some insulated tubing. Think of blowing into a 12' pipe with a cap on the end; the air needs somewhere to go or it will not flow. You need to use a centrifugal fan (like this) in your keezer and figure out a way to attach it to smaller tubing (probably 1"ish in diameter) and run the tubing up to your beer tower in the kitchen. This way the cold air is blowing out at the top of your beer lines and will circulate back down into the keezer. If you try this with a normal computer fan it will not work; they are very low pressure but high cfm. Since your fan will be acting more like an air pump than a fan it needs to be a powerful centrifugal fan (higher pressure) or their will not be enough air pressure to travel through a 12' tube.

Are they sucking air out of the tent or just out of the room?

Fans like this

Comfort Zone 6 Inch Clip-On Fan | Great for Table Tops, Night Stands and anywhere you need Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U9V47E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DNq0AbD8QY6YQ

Or like this?

VIVOSUN 4 Inch 203 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan with Variable Speed Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTM0H6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oOq0AbW0Q1Q5X

Also, are you exhausting from the ports at the top of the tent or the bottom?

Since you're on National Grid, you can get a smart thermostat for free if you don't want to shell out the cash for a Nest. The Honeywell RTH6580WF is only $64 on Amazon, and Mass Save will give you a rebate of up to $100 (rebate form here).

Having a WiFi thermostat is great. You can program it to turn down automatically at night and when you're away at work, and when you're away you can monitor the temperature remotely or turn the thermostat down if you forgot to do so before you left. If you want to get really fancy, you can link the thermostat to https://ifttt.com and have it automatically adjust the thermostat based on the weather, whether your and your wife's phones are a certain distance from home, if you have a trip on your calendar, etc.

This is the answer to your prayers, my friend. It's called Reflectix. It is a foil insulation wrap 5/8 inches thick. Two outer layers of aluminum foil reflect 97-Percent of radiant heat. Each layer of foil is bonded to two inner layers of insulating bubbles that resist conductive heat flow. I have applied this to every window and surface on the west side of the house facing the hot Texas sun which reaches 110 degrees these days.

Before I put these on, I could only gain a 15 degree differential from the outside to inside on the rooms that faced west, whereas now I stay a cool 25 to 30 degrees cooler. You can use chrome duct tape or velcro tape to secure it in minutes. It is a wonder solution, I highly recommend it.

Good morning, frients!!! I just completed my IH build based on A LOT of research/lurking around these parts. Here are a few more pictures of the setup/internals:

​

https://i.imgur.com/pEex7Xh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ntdy5qi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HoTzHAi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JDlo2FV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hiz0sea.jpg

​

**Update/Parts List**

Box/Enclosure

Induction heater board w/coil

Glass tube

(I shoved a cork in there from an old craft beer bottle. I just shaved it down with an x-acto knife until I was happy with the fit/spacing)

Mosfet

Power supply

Red toggle switch

Momentary switch

DC panel-mount jack

Insulated crimp connectors

I used 16-gauge red/black wiring and insulated crimp connectors I had left over from previous projects.

​

Here's the bubbler I was using with the optional glass mouthpiece.

​

Total: ~$65 USD

​

TL;DR This thing is badass and easy to put together. Do it!!!

I spent some more time today reading up on fans on some other forums. I've ruled out "booster fans" completely as it seems the only upside to those is the price. Noise and power seem to be the big trade off.

PC fans certainly are low cost and fairly quiet, but they also seem like they'll require a bit more work to get them installed in terms of adapting a square fan to round ducting/grow tent ports. They too seem to be at the low end in terms of power, and though I don't need a carbon scrubber with my current setup, it might be prudent to allow for one if required down the road...

So, now I'm leaning towards a proper centrifugal fan (eg. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KMOJPK/ref=aw_2nd_sims_5?pi=SS115) along with a speed controller, as it seems they can be relatively quiet when running at lower speeds. The added benefit is that I could potentially cool a 400W HID with this fan if I decided to repurpose this little tent at some point.

Thoughts? Would a similar fan from Sunleaves (at three times the price) be significantly quieter?

Yes to the rockwool.

A sound room design is a lot like a high end home theater design. Look on those web sites for info and tips. You can also find DIY recording room designs out there.

There is another product out there called Homosote. It is a pressed cellulose fiber board. Dense and has good vibration absorption. It is designed to go between sheet rock and a stud wall/ceiling.

Having been involved with commercial anechoic chamber design and use, your best bet is to build a "room within a room". So basically a sub room that does not physically touch the rafters above. If the rafters are somewhat clear of water/drain/electrical stuff you can nest the new ceiling joists into the existing floor joists. At least 2x6s or 2x8s if the span is long. Then homosote / sheetrock / quietrock to the new "room".

Pay very careful attention to the joints and gaps. Seal them up with caulk or expanding foam in a can.

Use a garage service / fire door as it will have built in weather stripping to seal in noise. Put it at an odd fraction of the wall dimension. So not right in the middle. Put it at 1/3rd or 1/5th from the end of a wall.

The room dimensions need to be carefully considered. A square room will have really odd echos in it. There are calculators out there that will do the math for you, but you basically need each room dimension to be off by a factor of 1.4 (or square root of 2) Give or take. If you can't make it x1.4 off, then at least make them odd number dimensions and not the same. I don't care how much wall treatment you put up, it won't fix a room with a nasty reverb in it. Bigger is better as well. You will put a lot of sound energy into the room. Better dissipated in a bigger room, than a small one. Basically need to avoid even harmonics due to room dimensions.

> Not:
8' - ceiling, 8' - width, 8' - length

> More like this:
8' - ceiling, 11.5' - width, 9' - length

For wall treatments, the simple solution is to buy rigid fiberglass insulation panels. They are sold in 2x4 panels. Cover them with muslin and back them with 2x4 plywood and hang on the wall.

These things:
https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

For HVAC, use flex ducts and ensure that the holes into the house's existing ducts are not straight. You want the ducts to go around corners. If you want to go nuts, you can make the ducts out the rigid fiber boards.

The last thing, Don't muck it up. Sooner or later, you will sell the house. Make it look "normal" so it can be converted to a storage room or something.

For what it's worth, none of these booths are 100% sound PROOF.

Whisper Room was at VO Atlanta last year and had one of their 4 x 6 booths set up in the vendor room. With the door closed, I could still very clearly hear everyone outside the room. Yes, the sound was reduced dramatically, but I could still hear it clearly.

Short of building an anechoic chamber, You are NEVER going to have a room completely isolated from the outside world. You have to come up with a level of noise you can or cant afford to be acceptable with.

Unless you are doing audiobooks with a lot of long empty silences between paragraphs or lines of dialog, you are probably not going to need a whisper room.

There are two different things to consider: outside sound and inside sound.

The biggest problem with voiceover audio is inside sounds. The sounds created inside the room and bounce around the hard walls, ceilings and floors. This is the easiest thing to deal with and there are a number of things that you can use to absorb these reflections and reduce the echo. Things like acoustic foam or OC703 panels.

If the room is already acoustically treated, you could probably buy pre-built panels if you are just trying to remove some troublesome reflections. And if you want a specific room to work in, you might want to try a loose-walled curtain style booth like what Vocal Booth 2 Go has.

As for outside sound...if you live on a busy street, there's not much you can do about it. You could spend tens of thousands of dollars to completely acoustically treat your environment and youll still hear the Subaru with the coffee can-sized muffler when it drives by.

Awesome. Ever considered adding some UV or IR spectrum? That is only downside I see from the samsung diodes, but is easily remedied if desired.

I have noticed some increased trichrome production when adding UV but uncertain if its from the UV or some other factors.

My current plans are to remove all burples, replace with quantum boards then add something as simple as:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=uvb+light

and

https://www.amazon.com/8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-Dawson-Bros/dp/B071WJPWL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536520637&sr=8-3&keywords=light+clamp

To get a bit of UV on the grow.

Edit: "UVB: UVB supplementation is highly desirable in this approach because it can increase THC levels by as much as 30%. SO UVB should be supplemented for the last 5 weeks of flower minimum."

https://californialightworks.com/light-spectrum-and-plant-growth/

This will be difficult because this is a very uncommon configuration.

I do know of a couple monitors made by DoubleSight which use USB for both power and video signal (rebranded and refurbished for $42 at tigerdirect), but because the video goes through USB it will require a little bit of CPU power. It's a non-issue even with my Core 2 Duo (same story with netbooks - not a problem), but I don't know if there's a driver or enough power in the Raspberry Pi for this. Touch screen could be a nice feature, and you don't even have to use it.

The next thing I could suggest which has some use would be a Lilliput (which specializes in small monitors, and will have the greatest selection of features and inputs) or other kinds of field monitors. Probably the only way to get something affordable will be to avoid HDMI, since at that price range you'll need something a little older.

Finally, if you really want to get your hands dirty, check out a Chinese monitor kit from eBay. You'll need to make your own case, but you may even have fun with that!

Edit: I also found a battery/charger which looks promising.

uk here. I bought the woolcraft one but unfortunately they recently increased the price. so get the silveline one. do it quick cause they only have two in stock (and you need two) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-465983-Easy-Prop-1-15-2-9/dp/B000LFVE68/ref=pd_sim_60_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3AM3K57DCRJMPVY3Z0H2

and a pair of these also https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A6KJDFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: yes I know they are gonna cost a little extra, and you can do without them if you choose to hammer the basestations to your wall. but I didn't mind 'cause 1) the benefit outweighed the cost 2) I'm not worried about spending a little extra 3) my landlord wouldn't allow me to screw crap into the wall :-P

Happy Viving!

You could purchase/rent portable floodlights (something like this), but that would be expensive (not including generator) What we used to do is find a field that already has artificial light and then play on it's adjacent field. The field wasn't as nice, or as big, but there's usually enough spillover light to make playing feasible. Otherwise, find a local school and rent their gym for indoor. good luck

I popped my seedlings under the light, great for the warmth, and they immediately have light when they pop. As far as carbon filters, you can have one in your tent and blow it directly into your room, no need to blow outside. I recommend this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051HDECS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 very well priced,and includes carbon filter and speed controller for smaller setups. I have no experience growing without a carbon filter/ passive intake, but i can imagine without air flow(stale air), you may not have enough fresh air (specifically carbon dioxide) to grow properly Good luck!

The duct fan that im using is this one on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-S4-Controller/dp/B07JB292JC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1RWB03A6H659R&keywords=duct+fan+4+inch&qid=1573145365&sprefix=duct+fan+8+inch%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-6

I originally had used a smaller 4" duct fan that was rated for 100cfm but that wasnt strong enough to evacuate the fumes from my enclosure. Im pretty happy with this fan as its quiet and i can barely notice it running sitting next to the printer.

Im in a full enclosure that i built and my enclosure temps stay around 80 degrees F while printing with this fan running at max.

Yep. I used a 12v Lithium Battery. Works pretty good. The power lasts for hours. Longer than my phone (8 month old s3)...

I'm sure the fan will help but check whatever user guide that came with your light to be sure. The last thing you want is a fire. If you have the space and resources, having an exhaust fan like this to pull air out of near the top of your tent will do wonders for temp control.

Alright taking into consideration the 12 plant limit here, my previous setup was too big for so few plants. So with some downsizing hopefully saves even more!

Tent - GROWNEER 48"x36"x72" Lodge Propagation Tent

Lights - HLG65 lm301b and red 660nm hydroponic grow light 4000K x 2

Kingbrite 240W samsung lm301h 288v3 quantum board X1

Fan - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller

PH Meter - Wellcows Digital PH Meter

PPM Meter - HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester

Carbon Filter - VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter

Ducting - VIVOSUN 2-PACK 4 Inch 8 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting

Nutrients - MEGA Crop (2500g)

Botanicare CAL-MAG Plus Plant Supplement 2-0-0 Formula, 1 Quart

PH Control - General Hydroponics pH Control Kit

Soil - PREMIER HORTICULTURE 20380RG PRO-Mix HP High Porosity Grower Mix

Pots - Gardzen 10-Pack 1 Gallon Grow Bags x 2

Cloning Machine - CLONE KING 25

Total - 880.62 (includes shipping)

So with this setup ill keep 1 or 2 mother plants and then run the rest in SoG in 1 gallon pots. Using the 2 4000k lights for the mother plant and the cloning station and the 240w for the SoG area of the tent. Its a small setup but I think it'll work. Any idea what kinds of yeilds this could achieve? Any further input would be greatly appreciated.

I've got these for my UK setup.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-465983-Easy-Prop-1-15-2-9/dp/B000LFVE68/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-4042000-80mm-Telescopic-Support/dp/B001BWT2PA/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A6KJDFG/

They work great and are easy to put up and take down, so if you want to take it over to a friends house, you don't need to spend ages disassembling things.

OK. Here is what you are dealing with:

1.(L) black. Line voltage load. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

2.(W/Y) orange. W=heating and Y=cooling. Used for a two pipe hydronic heating/cooling system. That means water.

3.(Y/A) yellow. Y = cooling. A = electrical heater output. Heat and cool active to any relay.

4.(G1) red. Low speed fan. Through a relay.

5.(GM) blue. Medium speed fan. Through a relay.

6.(GH) brown. High speed fan. Through a relay.

7.(N) white. Line voltage neutral. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

What is missing is the "C" and "R" wires. Nowhere is there a low voltage 24v load and common wire. Your current thermostat does not use it.

You have two options that I know of. Purchase a transformer to supply the 24v to your new thermostat. Or return the Honeywell and purchase a wifi enabled line voltage T-stat.

Transformers. Here are two that may work:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC
For 240 volts

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464560168&sr=8-1&keywords=Aube+RC840T-120
For 120 volts

Line voltage T-stat:
https://casaconnect.com/en/shop/smart-thermostat-caleo/

Note: Since you have hydronic heating and cooling, in addition to HVAC, either choice for the thermostat will likely mean that you will loose that option. I have not evaluated the new Honeywell or Casa to see if they support hybrid systems.

Honestly I thought the same thing, but it was a lot easier than I thought. Without having to wire anything, it was all pretty common handiwork with a drill or a Dremel saw. It's a GardenMate 8 Gal grow bag

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NJYCFJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I used an Apollo Horticulture GL60LED Full Spectrum 180W LED Grow Light

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGFW0XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fans:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C82SYZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

hell yeah. There are activated carbon air scrubbers that you can even make on your own. Essentially all it needs to do is pass air through the filter. You can pick up activated carbon at pet stores. They sell it for fish tanks. Youtube has all kinds of DIY instructions for building an air scrubber.

If you have the money and don't feel like getting creative with some lowes buckets and a house fan though, you can get whole kits at amazon. Now keep in mind, the one I linked to is pretty nice, but you still need to get the duct tubing and if heat is an issue in your grow area, you'll most likely use this as an exhaust, but from what I've read they are your best solution.

Your CPU will generally just downclock if it is getting too hot, but that's only if it's reaching over 90 C. I can't imagine it's very pleasant having the PC heat up a 40 C room even more.

Is there a window on the west facing side? I've heard that installing heat-reflecting window film can really help and doesn't cost much. They have different tints so you can still let light through or mirror coat, etc.

Idk if the term is different in Aus but here's the brand I see sold in the US: https://www.amazon.com.au/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG/

Here’s links for uk amazon, will give you an idea of what to search if you’re based elsewhere.

Link for the telescopic poles: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000LFVE68?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Link for the clamp mount: CamKix Clamp Mount compatible... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NIBQXGS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The clamp mounts aren’t the best tbh, but they work. They were only £10 so may be worth spending a bit more for some better ones.

Depends on your confidence level. Cleaning the furnace and reachable ductwork with a shop vac will save you money and is not very difficult.

Also, if your comfortable and careful, you can try getting some of this, Nu-Calgon Foam cleaner, follow the instructions, and carefully apply, while being very very carefull to not bend any of the fins.

But number one priority for you should be to measure your filter rack with a tape measure, and buy proper fitting filters. All of this can be avoided with just a little bit of routine maintenance.

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

I used this for mine, 2x large totes stacked like your cans.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the bottom stick up about an inch past the lip so it covers the seam when the bins are closed. Its still low enough that i can let it close with out it pinching the reflective wrap. You get a lot of material for only $25, ive done 2x buckets and still have extra left over. Also if you use a roll like mine cut it against the grain, it will push out and basically hold it self together, where i needed it i used duct tape folded sticky side out or just double sided tape.

Hope this helps, otherwise great build! i want to do a large can build like this for a mama, but if i get the space im going to tent it.


Edit: By against the grain i mean perpendicular to how its rolled, lol

Weird, your page looks a lot different than mine but its the same fan.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B01CTM0H6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516814367&sr=8-1&keywords=vivosun%2B4%2Binch&th=1&psc=1

Thanks for all of your help man, I'll be thinking of you when I get this beast set up.

I have this Honeywell thermostat. It's a bit more expensive than the cheap Z-Wave ones, but it has a proper cloud service and I've been happy with it. I bought it when I had central AC and heating, but my house now only has hot water baseboard heat and no central AC. It works great for the heat.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH6580WF-Wi-Fi-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B00Y6M2OUC

> Ahh okay yes that makes sense, what do you usually use for insulation?

Foam pipe insulation works well, or a few wraps with Reflectix works well. Reflectix also looks really nice, taped up with foil HVAC tape.

AC Infinity Cloudline, model depending on what you’re looking for and tent size. I have the basic S4 for my 2x3, it’s super quiet even when running on full power. Strong, durable construction and comes apart really easy for cleaning. I know they’re just exhaust fans and not super interesting but I played with mine for like a half hour before doing anything with it.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-S4-Controller/dp/B07JB292JC

I'm confused, he told you about a carbon filter and im not for sure what your reply post is referring to. Anyways, you need a carbon filter. If you burn a candle the neigbor will now smell the candle and the weed. The carbon filter will work prefect. You don't have to run it 24/7. Just when your smoking and maybe 30 minutes afterward. Here is the carbon filter and fan combo: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0052ZPMAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1420334531&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70. And here is a speed controller for the fan so you don't have to have the fan on full blast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BLOSG7I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1420334616&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70. This will take care of all of your problems. (Amazon links are for U.S.)
You can smoke in your house and the neighbor won't smell it. Good luck and I really hope you go the carbon filter route.

this

For the weight sensors.

As far as the crontab issue you are facing, is their anything else in the crontab that you need?

You could just write a script (would need to run as root or sudo) to update the crontab in a way that you want

this will send you in the right direction.

Another way you might do it, if everything runs relative to one another, I.E. They should all be run at once, you could wrap that up into a script, then run that one script from crontab.

Another option would be to forgo cron all together and write a script that sleeps for a minute at a time, checking for the time, then when it's about the right time, sets off (within a minute or two should be super easy)

If you are having a hard time waking up,

something like this

to send power to something like this

might be something you want to consider.

Is it a window AC, are you talking about the exterior or interior coil?

You can use a no-rinse cleaner like this on the interior coil, they're not as effective but still work pretty well. Just don't overdo it and be sure to run the AC for at least an hour or two after. The idea behind "no rinse" cleaners is to run the AC and let the condensation cycle rinse it for you.

So the light intensity, which is given in lumens, is really the important thing. Lumens scale with power though. I just mean don't get the tiny light bulbs. I have used this one. A reflector lamp isn't the most aesthetically pleasing but it is the cheapest way to get the job done. These can give you a lot of intensity right under the bubl but because the bulb is small the really good area is not too large. The advantage of the T5 bulb is that it is that they distribute the light over a longer distance. giving weaker light but over a larger area which means you just need to have the light on longer in a given day. Also, remember that intensity falls off with distance squared so you get the biggest bang for your buck by putting the succulents close to the light.

I like to use clamp lights from the hardware store. Then again you need something to clamp it to. Just use "daylight" fluorescent bulb unless you need it to flower or fruit indoors.

A cheap mechanical timer switch is super nice to have too.

Move air through vents with in line fans. Super easy if you have an attic.
AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4" Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB292JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lGRZDbYTQ5HB8

I highly recommend these, with these.

The poles extend from floor to ceiling, so you can get the lighthouses high up. And they have a very small footprint compared to tripods, etc. I'm very very happy with them

[Here is a better option] (http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Rechargeable-3800mAh-Lithium-Connector/dp/B007RQW5WG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405311237&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+lithium+battery), in my opinion. Or [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Portable-4500mAh-Rechargeable-Battery-Wireless/dp/B008UKKXRC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) I would also take a look at building your own battery pack [similar to this] (http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower%C2%AE-3500mAh-Extended-Battery-iRobot/dp/B007V6UL1Y/ref=sr_1_95?ie=UTF8&qid=1405311619&sr=8-95&keywords=14.4v+battery). The first two look like they might even plug right into your amp.

Heck even [this] (http://www.amazon.com/12v-Standscan-Battery-Power-Pack/dp/B00BTGTJPG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405312250&sr=1-4&keywords=12v+portable+battery) would work better and be cheaper/lighter if you put some rechargeables in it.

I would want any battery pack around 12-15V. I would also consider getting a [cheaper amplifier] (http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_cp_e_0). It uses the same amp chip (ta2020) as the one you posted

Edit: Essentially, I wouldn't want to carry around 7 pounds of lead acid batteries when I could carry much lighter batteries to do the same job.

Relocating the filter should be part of the job but also cleaning your coils should partially help fix the issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/

Buy enough cans to get free shipping (if you don't have prime)

Get a dish brush spread evenly without bending the fins and then try removing the clumps before they clog your drain

I was working on something very similar yesterday. Yes you will need to power the servo's separately. I was able to get everything from Amazon yesterday. You will need a power supply. I bought a 12V power supply from amazon.

Battery Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RQW5WG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will also need probably two dc-dc step down converters
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXKBJI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can split these with a simple adapter and connect both of your step down converters
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NNL1YA8/ref=twister_B00NNL1XIG

You will wire the output from one converter to the one side of your breadboard and the other to the otherside. You probably want to separate the power from the pi and your servo's so that you don't get a voltage drop which could damage your pi. There are cheaper solutions to this like using a simple voltage regulator but you would give up 7v in heat. So it is recommended to get an efficient dc converter.

My 2cents

Everything looks good besides the ventilation. That fan lacks the static pressure needed to pull air through a carbon filter. You need something more like this, though I recommend a quality fan if affordable. Also, you want to pull air from the top of the tent. If you pull from the bottom, you are going to have hot, stagnant air above the filter.

You'll probably be alright, but a dimmable power supply is helpful, especially in a small space.

Vivosun! Pretty great little fans:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTM0H6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_l9aWBbGG2NW8R

I used these poles and these clamps. They are perfect and I haven't had any problems with them at all :)

This is what I've been using. It's tall enough to get over most cars, but it is a 1000w light, so it gets toasty pretty fast. Looks like the same company makes LED single lights for $30, so I'm considering buying a couple of those and mounting them on the stand that I already have.

Philips 23 watt 6500k CFL bulbs (you can also pick these up at your local home improvement store): https://www.amazon.com/Philips-433557-100-watt-Equivalent-Bright/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=philips+23+watt+cfl&qid=1550422990&s=gateway&sr=8-3

And don't forget clamp lamps: https://www.amazon.com/Woods-0169-169-Clamp-Light/dp/B009ONXWC2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=clamp+lamps&qid=1550423123&s=hi&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

​

Depending on how much space you have for a decent setup, you might want to consider T5 light bulbs and fixtures if you want more even distribution of light. I find that I have to put all my succulents together under or around the the lamp in order to get good growth and stress colors out of them. As long as the light bulbs are on or around 6500K (cool white light) then your plants will get the right amount of light that they would get if they had some sunlight.

>recommend a grow "bible", which would it be?

The grow bible or anything else by Jorge Cervantes:

https://www.amazon.com/Marijuana-Horticulture-Outdoor-Medical-Growers/dp/187882323X/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PH02JZK2F8GQF3WE1P5F

> How can I control odors when trimming, harvesting, and handling the plant in general outside of the bucket?

Ozone (controversial) or an open container of Ona with a fan blasting air over it. I do both at 3am when no one is likely to come over. I'll really crank up the ozone when I'm done and leave for an hour or so. Even being legal I still use this procedure.

The above is more for a harvest which can be very stinky. For steady odor control assistance you can drill a 1/4 inch hole or two in the lid of the Ona and just leave it in the living room.

ONA Pro works best in my experience but prefer the Apple Crumble. I have found that the Apple Crumble will not impart an odor on the plants if used in the same room.

https://www.amazon.com/Ona-Gel-Pro-30-oz/dp/B00AC1N4DM

>Do I need an air booster to use an inline carbon filter, or will a 12V PC fan have enough power on it's own?

Yes something. 12 volt PC fans often do not have enough static pressure for carbon filters. With AC fans you can use a light dimmer or a dimmer intended for inductive loads to control the fan speed if mechanical noise is an issue. The dimmers/speed controllers will usually generate some electrical noise or RFI.

https://www.amazon.com/Lighthouse-Hydro-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I

I can't really recommend a seed bank (I can buy clones) but they tend to be very discrete and with many you can mail cash. Their reputation would be severely harmed if they played any games here. Some accept bitcoin.

Someone else will have to recommend an online seed shop domestically. Sensi Seeds is likely the best due to original/better genetics but they are based out of Amsterdam. I would just pack the seeds in a small alarm clock and forget about it in the past when I smuggled seeds back to the US.

Check this out - looks to be a workable solution:

https://www.quora.com/Is-there-a-work-around-for-the-Nest-Thermostat-to-control-line-voltage-electric-baseboard-heaters

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC

Good luck!

If your apartment gets full, direct sun, get some thermal curtains and reflective window film. Gila puts out a window film kit that works well and can be easily removed when you need to move. You can find it at Lowes and Home Depot. If you get the film, be sure you get the Application Kit for it too.

I had this same issue in my old apartment. The AC would run full tilt, without stopping, and I'd be lucky to see temps below 85F in the summer. I was on the top floor and got full afternoon sun. The curtains and film helped drop the temp a few degrees.

>Can you explain your buckets air flow and air filtration?

My bucket has two passive 120mm intakes that are covered with mesh filters and a single 120mm exhaust in the lid that connects to a 4" flange with dryer ducting. There is a 4" 190 CFM In-Line fan connected to a 4x12 Carbon Filter. I also have a variable fan controller on the in-line fan. I run mine at about half power.

>What do you have your plant in? Planter and soil on the bottom of bucket ect?

I use a 5g nursery pot. For my next grow I will be switching to a smart pot to avoid it getting rootbound.

>I was thinking of extending a 5g bucket under the brute can so the soil is under the setup and the plant itself is in the brute only allowing more space to grow.

If you're gonna do that you're better off getting one of those 5g DWC setups. With that said, I'd advise against doing that. Reason being is you add another layer of complexity in that you have to figure out how to support the brute and you run risks with light leaks. This also puts the brute much higher than you are which can make servicing/watering awkward.

I just have mine sitting on the bottom of the bucket in the pot. The newer style Brutes cause you to lose a few inches but if you can budget to buy two of them and use one as a spacer, it works well.

>Would that work or would I have an issue with temperature difference between roots and plant?

I am not experienced enough to say yay or nay but I doubt it?

Too much moisture in the AC evaporator coil box, it gets mildew in there.

​

If you turn the AC off and let the fan run fresh air for the last few minutes before you stop driving, it makes a big difference. This helps dry out the box that holds the evap coils.

​

You may need to start with a cleaning of the coils, and then make a habit out of letting it dry out to prevent it from getting funky again.

​

I had some of this stuff already, so I basically pulled the fan out and sprayed it into the box with the coils. Probably better to get toyota's refresher kit if you don't want to deal with that mess (it's a real PITA!). Alternately, you may find a way to attach a hose to the cleaner I linked and squirt it up the drain tube for the evaporator box.

My set up is a 200-something watt LED flood light (meant for security purposes) put into one of those cheap work clamp ballasts. Seriously $20-30 max and it makes a whole lot more light and might actually save space compared to that. Here's some links so you get a better idea.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SYLVANIA-ULTRA-250-W-Equivalent-Dimmable-Daylight-Par38-LED-Flood-Light-Bulb/1000231265

https://www.amazon.com/8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-Dawson-Bros/dp/B071WJPWL2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525419221&sr=8-4&keywords=work+clamp+light

EDIT: I use this same setup and my Butch-T's went from saplings to no joke at least 10 leaves (4 full sized ones) and grew about 4 inches within 2 weeks. Keep the light close to the plants. You can since it's LED with less of an impact on heat.

This is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

With a little searching you should be able to get a case for about $100 shipped. You'll need 5 cases to cover 220 square feet.

The downside is that you'll need to cover it with cloth. I've used muslin with good results, anything similar that breathes will do, so see what's on sale at the fabric store. The easiest method I've found for wrapping these is to cut a piece of cloth long enough to fold over and cover both sides of the fiberglass, then sew up the remaining three sides with the fiberglass inside. To finish use upholstery pins to pull the extra cloth around back.

https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-9070-Upholstery-4-Inch-30-Pack/dp/B002LN9TS8

If you have space, you can get better low frequency absorption by placing these panels a few inches away from the wall or ceiling, so hanging them somehow would be ideal.

They had them on sale at walmart, Amazon & Best Buy this week for $30 and we picked one up for a friend of mine and worked instantly.... maybe its a faulty device.


https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Garage-Opener-Chamberlain-MYQ-G0301/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3PYXX79JVZY06&

From UK Amazon but equivalent should be available in US:

To create mounting platform: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LFVE68/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To mount lighthouses to above: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A6KJDFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The extending poles can be put up or taken down in seconds, also be sure to look at some power cable extenders for the lighthouses if you plan to have them away from plug sockets: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DVZYBBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

"Item Weight 2.6 pounds"
And that's why that product doesn't work. Foam is not used in bass traps because of that.
Bass traps in general need a good amount of density to work and the right material. Dense fiberglass is what is commonly used.
Compare that foam product with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

There are plenty of tutorials on how to make a good bass trap out of fiberglass boards. You will get far better results.

Shopping list;

AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, 6-Foot Long Cord, 790 Joule - White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00TP1C1UC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_H4B1DbVABEKV0


VIVOSUN 4 inch Inline Duct Booster Fan 100 CFM, Extreme Low Noise & Extra Long 5.5' Grounded Power Cord https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01C82SYZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_33B1DbZQFHVBT



VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan Pre-Filter Included https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DXYMBU6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_D3B1DbXZRD3RS


Hydrofarm TM01015D Dual Outlet Grounded Timer https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001Q1FZWA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_.2B1Db0WE33FY



LED Lights Strip 5M 5050 SMD Waterproof 150LEDs RGB Color Changing Flexible LED Light Strip Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07B5Z2Y34/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_H2B1Db47ZRW0K



COB LED Grow Light, Niello Full Spectrum Grow Lights for Indoor Plants, Higher Light-Gathering, Space Saving and Easy to Install, Professional Greenhouse Hydroponic Indoor Plants(150W) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07DJ5WZQD/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_M0B1DbJMFAJ20



Not included; tin tape, duct tape, 2" curved pvc tubes x3, zip ties, hot glue, and the Rubbermaid wheeled bin + lid.

Don't worry about the overall shape of the system. All that matters is what the wires behind the thermostats are and do.

Ecobees don't run on mains voltage; in typical US thermostat wiring, there's a 24V (AC) potential between the "C" and "R" wires on the thermostat harness designated specifically for thermostats that need external power, and this is what Nest, Ecobee, et al run on in the US. In fact, thermostats that go anywhere near mains voltage are very rare in the US. Your diagram implies that these are, in fact, mains voltage thermostats... fun.

Looks like Nest has a "Heat Link" appliance specifically for this scenario. If you like Nest, well, there you go.

More generally, this is an adapter that converts 208-240V "mains relay" thermostat wiring to a US-style 3-wire interface. This could be used with basically any standard US thermostat. It looks like European thermostats differ quite a bit, but it's likely there's similar units out there.

Going to be in a small ish closet in a room thats partially underground. I live in west side washington state if that gives you a general sense of climate, roughly 60 F ambient temp inside said room. It has a window that can be opened for fresh air, average temp in the summer is about 70F. If i run [this fan from amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KMOJPK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458783951&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=50+CFM+inline+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=51xL2qyZJAL&ref=plSrch) with the fan control in the frequently bought together section below will that give me the range of speeds i need?

I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to line the inside of my 32gallon setup. It's kind of pricey but IMO worth it. I originally tried Mylar blankets and they are a nightmare to work with. This stuff is thick and easy to work with and claims 95%+ reflectivity.

I did something similar. I used PVC rather than aluminum because it was cheaper. I also installed an inline fan closer to the gable, which I wired with the ceiling van, and it helps a lot with the fan trying to push air that far. I have had zero issues with ice buildup on the outside vent.

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Booster-Noise-Grounded/dp/B01C82SYZ0

You will almost certainly need a generator or a running car as /u/Laymanism mentioned. A dual halogen worklight will draw about 1000 watts [1]. A car battery will hold about 18 AH at 12 V [2]. Even with a perfect inverter you would only get about 12 minutes power. You could hook up a bunch of batteries in parallel, but I would recommend a generator and a long extension cord.

That's exactly what I did. The poster board is taped to the top of the back, and naturally falls a that curve. I'm using an LED strip I got off Amazon, cut into 3 sections (both side flaps and the top) and soldered them together with wire. It's a little overly bright for my purpose and has the white/blue kind of tint to it. But it works very well and runs off a rechargeable battery pack I also picked up from Amazon.

That actually has too few buttons dedicated function buttons would be prefered this is pretty much exactly what I wan't but it doesn't have the circulating fan option.

So, if I were to have a room typically used for recording podcasts, these would make a noticeable improvement on sound quality?

You mentioned fiberglass insulation. Something like Owens Corning 703?

You want a thermostat switching relay like this one

Then use any smart thermostat you want.

Great white and Growers Recharge seem to be more popular and well thought of.

Here is a fan with speed controller built into it

Here is my copy paste daily response to people planning on using shit tier LEDs.

> TL;DR Don't waste your cash on shit tier LEDs - buy HPS/MH/CMH if you are short on money.

> LEDs are not better in any measurable way then HID until you get to at least mid tier stuff.

> DE HPS / CMH are close to comparable to COBs. That said I believe the results of lab testing that I've seen show more usable light from Vero / Cree COBs ( and possible Citizen , but I haven't seen as much data on them). The number that you are looking for is the ppfd. This is the photosynthetic photon flux density. It is the measurement of PAR at the canopy and is measured in micromoles per second per meter squared.

> IIRC really good HIDs like Gavita DE HPS or CMH are around 1.7 - 1.8 micromoles per joule and COBs are 1.8-2.2, and quantum board type setups are 2.5+. Shit tier LEDs from amazon (mars hydro , vivaspectra) are like 1.0 or less.
> I'm not saying you can't grow bud with shit tier LEDs I'm saying you will grow more and better bud using HPS of the same $ amount vs shit tier LEDs.


In your example your spending $140 on 10 year old LED tech and getting 264W at the wall which doesn't even come close to the 40 - 50W per SF rule most people use. This $120 400W HPS will crush those Mars lights in yield and quality. This is why I say don't use LEDs unless your ready to spread that wallet wide.

Things to think about later are drying racks, jars, and trimming scissors.

nice, that's a good one. also, found the wifi garage door switch

I recently got a roll of Reflectix to bump up the warmth and protect the air mattress. It folds down small and is very lightweight. But, more than a little more heat, I feel it will take any thorns or other pokey things that might come through the tent floor or if I'm cowboy camping.

You probably don't want blackout curtains, that will absorb all the incident sun light and radiate heat indoors. You want something reflective to reflect the incoming sunlight back out the window. Something like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKM8EG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00CST53LW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0BFHK527AAVRR79DTKMD

or a simple white solar shade could be helpful.

> 50mm (f/1.8) lens and the 18-135mm (f3.5-5.6)

Just try both. You'll end up using smaller apertures anyway for some of the close-ups as 1.8 has an extremely thin DOF and sometimes you'll want more than only the eyes sharp, nice blur of the lens or not.

As for the lighting, if you don't have sufficient lighting or the baby just doesn't want to adjust to your days lighting-schedule: I already suggested in another comment work-lights like these. Poor mans lighting equipment, adjustable by umbrellas and cloth :)

Yes. You need three things:

An Apple TV 4k, iPad, or HomePod

One of these:
MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FMbsDbWY8DV71

And either need to run homebridge 24x7 somewhere in your house on a computer, or get this:

LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HObsDb3PB0G0S

I did this last year and it worked great! This year I am upgrading to bubble wrap insulation: https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO I got a wide roll of it at a hardware store and plan to duct tape it to the tent then tie rope over it.

i bought one locally but this one on amazon looks like it might work https://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Rechargeable-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Pack/dp/B007RQW5WG/

I agree, I would not spend too much on the tent, and spent the most on the light, I would suggest the AC Infinity filter fan it is light powerful and adjustable

Is that duct fan this one: https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Booster-Noise-Grounded/dp/B01C82SYZ0/ ? If so, I'm curious to know if it works with the filter. I almost got it, but the product descriptions says it's not for use with a carbon filter, so I thought it might not have enough pressure to push air through the filter. If it works, though, it is certainly a lot cheaper than the high-powered fans.

had a look around, https://www.amazon.com/Silverline-Easy-Prop-1-15-2-9m/dp/B000LFVE68/ref=sr_1_3?srs=6050981011&ie=UTF8&qid=1483655647&sr=8-3&keywords=prop best i seem to get.

I always have a bag with me so something like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RQW5WG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1N2RXSB5QJESW&coliid=I3GG8Q1EJUQN33 would work perfectly for me

Looks like it dropped to $80

MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kia2BbS5X0XZ8

The cheap LEDs in those kits can’t grow plants. I’ve tried. I didn’t get growth until I set up a contractor light on my 5 gallon with a 23 watt cfl 6500K. Now I have 8 on 3 tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q90xDb7JCYWQH

And used something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ONXWC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O-0xDbV4F06PC

$83: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH6580WF-Requires/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/

I use this one and it's great.

this one is great, high quality and all you can hear is it moving a lot of air.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CTM0H6I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481517924&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vivosun+203

Cheapest way I've found to treat your space. Wrap these in cloth from your local fabric store. Pin to walls with long T pins. Cheep cheep. They actually link burlap cloth for sale for very cheap as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

Something like this should work. SHOULD. I don't know the exact specifics of your setup, but it looks like 240V line-voltage baseboard heating based on your existing thermostat.

If you get this thing, connect all 3 wires to the Nest. It just saves headaches to have a C wire.

This stuff works really well for this purpose. I also use it to get 7.5 gallons to a rolling boil on my stovetop. Probably not useful for you as you're planning on using it in the next few days, but maybe will help someone else

In my personal opinion I would try and go more towards tungsten lighting, really cheap, good color, and very reliable. You need to shoot around what you have, so that means if you're going to do anything at night you can't show big spaces. Try some china balls and clip lights. Then get a bunch of light bulbs, dimmers, and diffusion. The diffusion I listed in sort of middle of the road, not too heavy, not too light. You could do great night interior work with just this. Night exterior might be possible, but you have to plan a lot around existing lighting.

​

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lumabase-10-in-Round-Paper-Lanterns-5-Count-78005/204191099?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CDD%7CD59%7C59-6_HOME+D%C3%89COR%7CNA%7CNA%7c71700000032287291%7c58700003837160922%7c92700036675473299%7cpla-514547808605-51080780382&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Yr03I7x3QIVAcZkCh3A8gTWEAQYASABEgIexPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CO3d7N6O8d0CFU3FZAodpXAGQg

​

https://www.amazon.com/8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-Dawson-Bros/dp/B071WJPWL2/ref=asc_df_B071WJPWL2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198068910902&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10150620353935443755&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031204&hvtargid=pla-352850301737&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=asc_df_B0000BYEF6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=1o9&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8666904966532857364&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031204&hvtargid=pla-274342005344&psc=1

​

https://www.filmandvideolighting.com/cotech-250-half-white-diffusion-gel-filter-sheet.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwKT9k4_x3QIVD6rsCh0Slw9QEAQYBSABEgL1L_D_BwE

​

Go BIG or go home. j/k

Is there an outlet and you could use a desk lamp as a spot light? You can get those for under 10 bucks. It make actually be worth just leaving there if you frequent the bar enough.

I'm a big fan of sleeping in vehicles to save on rent. I've lived in my truck for 2+ years, and I love it.

What kind of car do you have? Do the back seats fold down for you to sleep like that? You can also sleep across the interior but you'll have to black out all the windows and buy a sun shade.

I have curtains using hooks, binder clips, and bungee cords, but I'm going to switch to Reflectix soon. Look up some YouTube videos on ideas how to do it. I got the idea from these guys.

You've got some spaces and some friends so you don't necessarily need a gym membership to keep up with hygiene, but you need a place to make shits. You'll find those places no problem; I'd just keep some sanitary wipes to clean the toilet seats.

Thank you very much, I think I will go with the brake drum forge. I found a decent set of instructions here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Brake-drum-blacksmithing-forge/?ALLSTEPS, although I still might use fire bricks instead of the cement ones they used. I don't know much about centrifuge fans, and google wasn't especially helpful, do you think this centrifuge fan would be adequate? http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-IF4-Inline-Duct-Fan/dp/B005KMOJPK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409761541&sr=8-3&keywords=centrifugal+fan

Thanks again for your insight

I second this. This is what I use to filter my 3x3 tent.

All-Filters CP-6005 Cut to Fit Carbon Pad for Air Purifiers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U204W2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ypR-Bb4QTMBKY

VIVOSUN 4 inch Inline Duct Booster Fan 100 CFM, Low Noise & Extra Long 5.5' Grounded Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C82SYZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uqR-Bb4D3ADEY

And just used a hose clamp to clamp a piece of the carbon filter over the intake of the fan. So it sucks air from the tent outside. Keeps my tent at perfect temps and scrubs smell.

Oh god this is giving me PTSD from the house I bought last year.

It had one of those Honeywell programmable thermostats and I was shivering at 2am poking at it with a flashlight trying to figure it out. Programming it was a pain in the ass. Changing the temp? I was never sure if I was reprogramming it or temp changing the setting. I ripped it out day 2 and put in a Nest. That's super clear.

In the basement I put in a round mechanical thermostat to keep the pipes from freezing in winter and that's it. No frills. Just a spring.

If I were you, unless you want a smart one, I'd get one of the old round ones and call it a day. If you want a smart one, get the cheap Nest.

Consider something like this too: https://smile.amazon.com/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

Made a huge diff in here.

If that is a 115v AC fan, you will need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lighthouse-Hydro-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I

You can get a Vivosun inline 4" fan for like $25...

inline fan

If you have big windows, buy some window film. I bought this and applied it to all my windows/sliding doors this spring. The downside is that it's a somewhat mirror finish.

Last year during the July when it was over 100 like every day, my electricity bill was about $200. This year, after applying that, the highest my bill ever got was $124. Also, make sure your AC is running efficiently. I had a tune up, and the only thing that was wrong was the fins in my AC unit were a little bit clogged. Blew it out with a hose (from the inside towards the outside. You'll need to take off the fan to do this).

This can be used to hook up baseboard to a thermostat.

http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C

with how many you are wanting to hook up, i honestly couldn't offer any advise there. I know the nests are designed so they can network together and work in sync to keep all the rooms on the same temps, but that would be a very pricey undertaking with around 8 different units, as well as 2 AC units.

Its this Aube relay with built in 24V transformer, so I think it has both the relay and the transformer? I had 2 black wires and 2 red wires coming out of the wall, and he connected those somehow to the black blue and red wires on the relay part. He says he followed the diagrams that came with the relay/transformer and did it however they say it should be done, but yeah I won't know how he did it unless I open it back up and pull it all out. Clearly something isn't right since there's no voltage going to the wires that have been added to the knobs on the transformer part.

Yes. This one works fine.

THANK YOU. I covered the floor in this; would this be enough: https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481129537&sr=8-2&keywords=insulation

Also, this looks like a good forced exchange heater?

http://www.themaddogs.com/Equipment/Cabin/Espar/Espar_Eberspacher_Airtronic_D4%20diesel_air_%20heater.htm

Cheapest isn't usually a good option in the long run. In this case it more than likely will be hard to set up/connect, keep a connection, not have options that you'd probably want, good chance it won't operate as flawlessly as one you'd spend a bit more for and tech support may be non-existent. Cheap parts, cheaply put together...more trouble than it's worth. Honeywell is old as dirt. They're reliable. Tech support is 50/50. They make a dependable thermostat. I could have bought any wifi thermostat I wanted and chose the Honeywell TH9320WF because it did everything I wanted (and I could make the screen any color ;) ). It was $156 at the time on Amazon. Honeywell makes less spendy ones tho. It will have the Honeywell dependability but just the basics. $82/Amazon.
4 star rating
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH6580WF-Requires/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522456176&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+wifi+thermostats+for+home

Yes you can. This one is rock solid and $78.

Honeywell Home Wi-Fi 7-Day Programmable Thermostat (RTH6580WF), Requires C Wire, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oIdzDbG5DTREV

I do all sorts of audio recommendations on /r/zeos and the only other speakers I recommend cheaper than these are the Dayton B652's which are larger than these but only $50. You can also grab the Lepai 2020 amp (which is also larger) for only $20 and since it is SO cheap and has smaller capacitors most normal battery packs will power it. Like the this one

So that is under $100 for all the main components you just have to work out the cutting board bits to accommodate it all.

I actually have mine outside now so no need for a light. I'm probably going to look into something different for next fall/winter though.

If you get a couple clamp lights that should work well if your shelves are small. Look for a led or cfl bulb with a 6500 K color temperature and as high of a wattage as your lamp can handle. Something like this would be good because it can handle a very high wattage. I think you need to look for at least a 60w equivalence. The higher the wattage the more plants it will cover since you won't need to have the light as close to the plants. You don't need to look specifically for a growlight bulb. They're often overpriced for what they are and as long as you know what specs you need you can find regular led/cfl bulbs that are essentially the same thing but without the price markup.

People have been using these Aube relays successfully:
http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C

Thanks! Do you know of this 5-1-1 would work or would this 7 day be the least expensive model?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VIWQL4/ref=psdcmw_2054378011_t3_B00Y6M2OUC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=psdcmw_2054378011_t3_B00FLZEQH2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CTM0H6I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522434096&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4in+inline+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=517%2B2qeoicL&ref=plSrch

This looks more like what I see people using. How's the brand?

These poles and these mounts has worked great for me.
Takes minimal space as well, but they only work up to 2.9m.

It depends what fan you have. If you wanna spend $100 you can get one that’s way quieter. I have this one VIVOSUN 4 Inch 203 CFM Inline Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTM0H6I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

With mine you would probably be fine since there’s a door in the way for you. I can’t really hear mine if I go into another room.

Not officially supported, but you can use Nest and Ecobee with a transformer and relay, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C

I made myself a Reflectix sleeping pad when I first got my hammock. Reflectix is basically two layers of bubble wrap sandwiched between two layers of Mylar/space blankets. It helps, and helps quite a bit—you might even get away with on a warm summer night—but it's nothing compared to even a cheap, low-quality underquilt.

I'd say bring the space blanket since they're so cheap and light, but there's a reason everyone has/recommends underquilts. You can't skip it, as I learned firsthand.

Here's my [Speed controller for fan.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI2RS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) This was definitely overkill, I just didn't trust cheaper voltage regulators, plus I can and have used it for other things. Pretty well made, works great, it was only like $70-$80 when I got it though.

This was my other option, but obviously I can't vouch for it.

EDIT: I'm not an electrician so I may have been unnecessarily worried, and even now I am not 100% clear with all the mixed reviews and info around fans and speed controllers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051HDECS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484254597&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=carbon+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=51lFVy2sSVL&ref=plSrch

I don't think I got that exact filter but the fan and controller are the same. Besides that you just need some flex duct and 2- 6" clamps.

You could probably get a nicer look by using this Bubble Pack Insulation

https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-IF6-CF6-B-Controller/dp/B0051HDECS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1462551273&sr=8-9&keywords=inline+fan&refinements=p_85:2470955011&linkCode=sl1&tag=christieheavy-20&linkId=8ba551246f14af8ea4691eed28b8cd45

That's the one I'm looking at getting. Or here is a website that has good reviews on other ones.

http://heavy.com/garden/2016/05/best-inline-duct-fan-grow-room-how-to-cannabis-weed-marijuana/

https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

Frame it in some 2x2s and stretch fabric over it. Add a couple and you'll be good.

Hm that makes sense. I got the one that's recommended in the starter guides. this one

The duct work isn't very long. Only a few feet after the fan. I'd rather not extend it much for space reasons, and also I think it would reduce air flow to have more length.

And if you don't want to drill holes in your walls, buy some of these . I have my lighthouses attached to these and they're perfect. I didn't want to drill the walls as we're in rented accommodation and I also don't trust my DIY skills.

Install the following, then you can choose the smart thermostat of choice:

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uITLBbZFN4PYX

MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aSe2DbJSKHWY7

M using this. It’s very simple to setup.

MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PbDSDb4K2K0JZ

I would try to shade the area, insulate the bucket and then add an Ice Probe. Check out the amazon links. I use the Ice Probe and double insulated my 5-gal bucket.

https://www.amazon.com/IceProbe-Thermoelectric-Aquarium-Chiller/dp/B001JSVLBO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=iceprobe&qid=1570125812&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-ubble-Pack-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=reflectix&qid=1570126123&s=gateway&sr=8-1 (cheaper at Home Depot)

If you look at the last 2 images here, you can see my filter and setup here http://imgur.com/a/TUFMf

This is the exact fan/filter that I got http://www.amazon.com/iPower-GLFANXINL6FILT6MD25C-6-Inch-25-Feet-Ducting/dp/B00DIIPTHA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450463821&sr=8-5&keywords=carbon+filter+6%22

Also added a fan controller so it wasnt running at 100% all the time http://www.amazon.com/Hydrobuilder-HBVFSC-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I/ref=pd_sim_86_80?ie=UTF8&dpID=41idj0MShKL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0FBPXDHCDMHF1K8SQ2AR

I just posted a few pics of my second grow. I use a 440 CFM carbon fiber scrubber. The physical carbon scrubber is mounted inside at the top of the tent. I'm running 6 inch duct which is a bit extreme because my tent is 2x4x5. So, the scrubber is mounted, with a six inch duct from there, leading into my air cooled hood. Another six inch duct runs out of the hood and up towards the ceiling of the tent where it goes into the intake fan and led away from the tent.

Before I had an air cooled hood and carbon fiber scrubber (my first grow), I was constantly battling heat issues with a 400w light. I had two six inch inline fans, one bringing in fresh air and one pulling hot air from the top. Then I had two cooling fans inside the tent to move the air around the tent. It was crowded with four plants that stretched because I didn't have a proper cooling system. Average temps where mid, to high, 80s (26°+ c). In the end I made out okay with no problems 5.2oz with no stress training.

Here's my scrubber It's huge, but I don't need any other fans except the two blowing on my girls to strengthen their stems and roots. Just a thought.

Weather stripping for sure and then seal the inside with a piece of r10 insulation blanket if you want to be more precise with it

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQSYRO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486162379&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=insulation+blanket&dpPl=1&dpID=41vFYWadUML&ref=plSrch

You should only need an exhaust. I would recommend a 6" centrifugal inline fan.

Here is the combo I used when starting out

And here is what I am using now

Just two clamp lamps on top with some 12W 6000k LEDs. The clamp lamps aren't actually clamped on, just the reflectors sitting on top of the glass lid.

Clamps
Bulbs

Actually, check the fins on the evaporator coil behind the filter once it thaws. If a lot of them aren't straight, or if they're dirty, that would do it. Even if they don't look dirty, they still could be. It wouldn't hurt to clean them either way. I like this one fit small units like that https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-417175-Nu-Calgon-Evap/dp/B00DM8KQ3I

Yeah if you flower under that you'll probably get some stretchy light leafy buds. It doesn't have to be a single 125w clf. Get some regular 2700k soft white cfl house light bulbs at Lowe's and a few cheap lamps or a multi socket lamp if you can find one. Or just buy some of these and swap them for yours when it's flower time.

You could also try applying some reflective film like this on your windows, particularly any that face south.

When I was a student, I used to live in a downstairs room that was always freezing (unlike the rest of the house). I ended up putting some temporary window sheets up to fake double-glazing (http://www.amazon.com/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG Like that, your local DIY store would likely have some and I've seen people DIY it with household stuff like clingfilm).

The other thing to do is make sure all the drafts are sealed up - fill in any gaps around the window frame with some caulk or similar, and if you can change the curtains, opt for something much heavier (like a velvet or heavy-lined) to act as a draft excluder - I had these ugly red velvet curtains in that house that I basically kept closed all winter.

http://www.selleys.com/home-improvement/living-room-renovation/filling-gaps-and-prevent-draughts/

P.S. There's some cute draft excluders on etsy for along windowsils and bottoms of doors: https://www.etsy.com/listing/218215925/chevron-door-stopper-draft-dodger