(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best building supplies

I'm no expert by any means, this is only a hobby, but I'll give it a shot. Also keep in mind that I'm a film photographer, so some of my knowledge may be irrelevant due to you using digital. You've already got it easier than me thanks to the digital camera.

I put a glossary at the end if any terms are too photography-y for ya.

Your biggest difficulty will most likely be finding a space appropriate for the shot. Large open floor space, some way to whitewash the floor if that's what you're going for. You also will need a high ceiling, the standard 9ft ceilings won't be nearly high enough to obtain that ratio of subject to empty space, not sure if I stated that clearly.

Another of your biggest difficulties will be rigging up your camera mount and reaching said camera once it's mounted. I honestly can't think of any easy setup for you to use. If I think of something I'll let you know.

Now on to lighting. It's a very soft even light, so you cannot have any lights shining directly on the subjects or you're going to get "hotspots" and hard shadows. I would suggest hanging a white sheet off to the left of the shot and shining several bright lights onto that. I would say to just grab the cheapest work light you can find at your local hardware store, but I'm afraid that may be too yellow of a light. If you're going for the "pure" look of white on white on white, the yellow light will throw that off. As such, I'm not sure what to suggest for a light source, just make sure it's bright and you diffuse it by either bouncing the light off a white sheet, or shining it through a white sheet.

Now on to the camera itself, I don't know what kinda camera you have, but this shouldn't be a terribly difficult shot to obtain. It's well lit, there's no motion, and the subjects are at the same focal distance. No matter what camera you're using, make sure the flash is turned off, or all your hard work setting up the soft even lighting will be for nothing.

If you have a generic digital camera, simply take several shots flipping through the different preset modes, I expect portrait will get you the best results. Once you've found the mode you think is best, you may attempt to tweak settings from there to obtain the results you want, but many of these generic cameras either don't have many settings to play with, or they are not easy to access.

If you've got a DSLR (Digital Single Lense Reflex)(they generally look about like this with interchangeable lenses) then you've got the potential to get a much better shot if you've got the time to mess with it. Many DSLRs also have preset modes, you may be able to use one of those as a baseline to start from like before.

Because it's well lit and no motion, you shouldn't need to do anything fancy. If you don't have presets or they aren't doing the trick I'd set the ISO for about 400 and the shutter speed for about 1/32, then adjust the aperture until the picture has the brightness you want, bring it into focus and take the shot. Then tweak it from there to your pleasing.

Very brief summary of photography terms and how they'll effect/help you. If you have a DSLR, you can adjust all these settings, if it's a generic digital camera then I don't know how much control you'll have over these things. I glossed over a lot of stuff here:

• ISO: this term is a carry over from film. It's basically how quickly the film is exposed when subjected to light. Lower ISO needs more light exposure, higher ISO needs very little. As such, your shutter speed should be adjusted to your ISO, low ISO = slow shutter speed, high ISO = fast shutter speed. Your digital camera still has an ISO setting which you can adjust on the fly.
  400 is a good middle ground for most scenarios. I've personally found that 800 will come out grainy, but that's with film, I dunno if that applies to digital. 200 is good for well-lit, still subjects, so you may want to try it for this photo.
  
• Shutter Speed: How quickly your shutter opens and closes. This is measured in fractions of a second, the middle ground is 1/32, usually just called 32. You'll adjust this depending on lighting and if the subject is moving. If you're shooting a sports game on a sunny day, you'll use a faster shutter like 64 or 128 because there's plenty of light, and because of the motion a slower shutter would cause the photo to blur any motion.
  
• Aperture: this determines how much light is let into the camera, the aperture is measured by f-stops such as f/1.8 or f/22. Aperture is tied to your ISO and shutter speed. If it's a bright day, choose a higher f-stop, dark night = lower aperture. If you're shooting a fast shutter speed with a low ISO, you'll need to choose a lower aperture to let more light in quickly or else your film will be underexposed. In your situation, simply adjust the aperture till the image looks appropriately bright, then adjust it if your photo comes out light or dark.
  Your aperture will also affect your focal length. Higher f-stop = longer focal length, lower f-stop = shorter focal length. I can elaborate on this later, but it shouldn't effect you on this shot.
  
• Focus: I know I don't have to define this, but here's a tip for getting a good sharp focus. Set your aperture as low as it goes, usually f/1.8, focus your shot, then set your aperture to where you want it for the shot. This has to do with how the aperture effects your focal length, which I can elaborate on later.
  
  I know I went over a lot of information very quickly and I glossed over a lot of stuff. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask!

I own both a gen 4 and a gen 5 FSL hobby laser, and I really like them both. There's a decent community forum here:

http://fslusers.freeforums.org/

You'll get some good answers there.

For 1), I don't know; I don't have their exhaust fan. They didn't have it available when I bought mine, but it looks decent enough. Without seeing it in person I can't comment on if it's worth $200 or not, but I use this one on one of my lasers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8D0IC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage and it's loud but works well. On my other I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005XNNYMU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage and it's much quieter and also works very well. Granted my ducting is 6" to match, but I like it.

For 2), what diameter items? I got my rotary for free from some promotion/preorder/I can't remember and I actually have barely used it. It's hard to fit into the machine, as it raises items up off the floor of the laser, and there isn't much vertical height left over. I'd estimate you could only do roughly 1/2" diameter stuff without removing the floor of the laser (which isn't hard), but even then you'll likely only get to 1" or so. You'd need to remove the floor and set it up on something to get anything bigger. The removable floor is pretty nice; I took mine out and haven't looked back.

For 3), I can't comment on the cost of the 45W tube, as I didn't get one with mine, but I don't see it being worth it. You can get a whole second tube from LightObject for less than the cost of "upgrading" that first tube: http://www.lightobject.com/SP-35W-CO2-Sealed-Laser-Tube-for-Small-K40-laser-engraving-machine-P208.aspx Note that, despite being labeled as a "40W" laser, most of these small machines are actually about 30-32W. 40W refers to the peak pulse power when starting up; it's not a continuous run rating.

As far as compressors go, I haven't ever run without one. It helps TREMENDOUSLY when vector cutting and helps a LOT to keep your lens clean. Their compressor is OK but it's a bit pricey; I'd look around and see if I could find a continuous-duty-rated compressor for cheaper than that.

Don't get their water chillers either. The $600 one is just a radiator and a fan, and won't chill your water much. You get WAY more bang for your buck from a 5 gallon bucket. If you run it for a long time, freeze gallon jugs of water and put them in the bucket. I've run 100% power vector cutting jobs for 2 hours at a time with a gallon of ice in there, and it's just about right. You might need another half gallon; it's been a while since I've used that method. Their "Advanced chiller" looks decent, but it's WAY overpriced. An equivalent unit from here: http://www.vminnovations.com/search/index.html?q=AACH25 is $425 for a brand new one, and less than $300 for a refurb, and it's actually a refrigerant based unit. I installed an 80W tube in mine (not their official kit) and use that chiller and it works great.

Last, don't get their 90W upgrade kit either unless you have a REALLY good reason to. A tube and PSU cost around $1100, so you're paying nearly $2000 for brackets and a wiring harness. It's just not a good value, but then again installing your own 80W tube isn't exactly a walk in the park if you don't have some fabrication tools handy.

I hope that helps. For what it's worth I really like my lasers and they have served me well. If I get another laser it'll probably be a direct import from GWeike, but that's only because I've been using the FSL lasers for so long and have learned a TON from them.

I've owned my first home for 3 years and two years ago I designed and was the general contractor for an incredible master bedroom/bath addition.

Suggestions, my house has a one piece sink/counter and it's wonderful and easy to clean and seamless - love it. Highly recommend. Rectangular sinks are popular right now, don't do it--most sinks are oval for a reason (I have rectangle and I've had to relearn how to use a sink and it's too shallow and I don't like it).

I'd recommend not doing tile in your bath/shower area and getting a single vinyl piece like what you currently have (but not green). The shower inserts are easy to clean, elegant, and you can even buy them with a tile design that looks real but is still super easy to clean. Showers should always have extendable shower head arms to make cleaning easier. I'd get one of those curved shower curtain rods to make the shower feel wider. Add recessed lighting above the shower and a few more recessed lights in the room.

For my bathroom addition, I got this fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TJAGO4/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IG66NQLIR3JQR&colid=1BWCRY8EQNMEF and it's very quiet, not too expensive, and works really well - it was a Reddit recommendation in several different threads and I'm glad I got it.

How many bathrooms are in your house? Is this the master bathroom? That would determine some choices for me. Does that set of doors on the right hide a linen closet or is it the washer/dryer? If you're taking the room down to the studs and those doors hide a linen closet or a washer/dryer or something else? Consider how much linen closet space you need. If it's a linen closet and if this is the master bathroom or a 'kid' bathroom, I'd recommend trying to get a double sink in here and making the linen closet smaller. If it's laundry, then obviously keep it as a laundry room.

Good idea on removing all the tile and replacing with floor tile and drwall. I'd omit the cabinet above the sink and get a bathroom mirror that will show more of your reflection (especially make your belt area visible) and have storage behind the bathroom mirror. A mirror like this from Ikea would give you a lot of storage space (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20205171/) - my bathroom mirror is similar but has mirror on the inside which is a nice feature. I wish I had installed the mirror cabinet flush with the wall instead of popping out a few inches. I had the electrician put an outlet near the bottom of the toilet (I saw in a bunch of magazines) and several near the sinks for shaving and electric toothbrushes. I also have a small linen closet in my bathroom and had the electrician put an outlet in there so I could leave my hair dryer plugged in all the time. It's the little things! Think about how you use your space and what you want out of it.

Two days ago, the Tangilope's leaves went a little limp. Upon inspection of the soil, it appeared to me it was due to the cup starting to fill with roots and quickly sucking the cup dry of most water. I do not believe it is over-watering, but I could be mistaken. Last night, I decided to move it to a 2gal smart pot filled with approx. 3/4 Roots Organics and 1/4 chucky perlite moistened for a very light and airy mix. I then used approx. 6oz of water to water mostly around the root ball (no run-off, I didn't want to drown it). It's still growing, but I'm hoping the leaves will bounce back to their perky selves soon. I plan on letting the soil dry out quite a bit before the next watering. And as soon as it bounces back and grows one more node, the topping and LST will begin.

The Vanilla Kush is getting big quick, and I'm liking how wide the leaves are looking already. I was hoping to get a more Indica pheno to balance the tangilope. I looked at the rootball last night, and I think it could go a bit longer without transplant. I watered it again this morning, so it will be ready for a transplant tomorrow night.

Things are looking pretty good so far, and I'm getting excited now that the plants are starting to move along. I can't wait to train my first couple plants. Topping, tying, and scrogging to come. Thanks for looking

INFO

Plants: (1) Feminized Barney's Farm Vanilla Kush & (1) Feminized DNA Genetics Tangilope.

Tent: 3'x3'x6' Apollo Tent

Light: iPower 600w closed hood running at 50% for seedlings and about 14" away from plant.

Fan: 440CFM exhaust fan

Carbon Scrubber: 6"x16" phresh filter

Soil: 1/3 roots organics & 2/3 pro-mix HP for seedling stage

Nutes: General Organics GO Box

Pots: RR > solo cup > 1 or 2gal smart pot > 5gal smart pot > 7 (maybe)

PH Kit: General Hydro

Seed Starter: Rapid Rooters

Dope Pickups.

I participate in video production, some simple tips that can and will approve your video quality.

• I'm unsure what type of camera you are using, but most video cameras have a mic input. A lav mic would make audio never a issue again. You can pick them up super cheap over at amazon LINK
  
  
• Lighting is kinda a issue. Lighting is super cheap too. Run down to that hardware store and pickup some work lights. 20 dollars for 2. LINK. These will make the video quality look 10 time better. Here is my fucking amazing artwork to show you how lighting should be. One behind you on your wall and one behind your camera pointing at you. Super Dope Diagram
  
  Anything else Im more than happy to help you

Container: Rubbermaid 20 gal Brute Bin

Lights: Kingbrite 60 W Quantum Board (if you want dimmable, ask for a dimmable driver like the HLG-60H-36B and a potentiometer)

Screws: You'll need lots of nuts, long screws, washers, and spacers to mount the board and PSU. First put the board on the lid and mark where to drill, then drill holes. Then put the power supply on the outside in the middle, mark and drill those hoses. Mount power supply and then flip lid over and mount the light, using long screws and nuts to hold it in place (the light should NOT touch the lid but be 1-2 inches from it, held in place by nuts). Drill small hole for power line, then connect. Finally, drill 3 inch hole for exhaust beside the light. You'll also need long screws with nuts to keep the fan and shrouds together. Be sure to use spaces anywhere the screw heads or nuts are touching the lid or the lights. For light spacers, I used rubber spaces between the nuts.

Cooling shrouds: 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose

90 degree 4 inch elbow for exhaust: 4 in. 90° Round Adjustable Elbow

4" to 3" reducer for exhaust: 4 in. to 3 in. Round Reducer

2x regular JB Weld to mount the reducer and 3 inch "trunk"

Fan: Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120mm x 38mm 4pin PWM+Tac Sensor Extreme Hi-speed 3700 RPM 151 CFM

Fan controller: Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller

Fan power supply: LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply

Fan power supply adapter: CRJ Female DC Power Supply Plug to 12V Molex Power Adapter Cable

Fan molex adapter: Coolerguys Mini 3-4 pin Fan Adapter (Single)

2x ABS fan elbow (for "snout" intake): 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Hub Long-Turn Elbow

Air filter for intake: 16.25 in. x 12.5 in. x 0.19 in. - 16.3 in. x .2 in. x 12.5 in. - CF300 Carbon Filter

Air filter (not pictured): VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan

Fan hose (not pictured): iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Foil

Watering device (not pictured): Janolia Automatic Irrigation Kit, Self Watering System, with Electronic Water Timer

Camera (not pictured): Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision (glue steel piece for magnetic base onto the upper side of the bin)

Notes: This design is very safe because it keeps all electronic components high in the bin. At the same time, using a battery powered watering system keeps you from requiring to ever open it. The lamp runs very cool. The PWM fan controller works well and keeping the air moving without using a lot of power (do NOT buy a cheap voltage modulator, I did first and it doesn't work nearly as well as the PWM controller). The Wyze cam is super cheap and lets you keep an eye on everything or make timelapses. Have fun growing your tomatoes!

I haven't heard of any making them louder than full, but most don't really make it much quieter than full. This could be something to do with the type of fan used or the controllers.

Here is an example of a way to make a carbon filter. This one is meant to be connected to an inline duct fan, which is probably the type I would recommend for your sized space.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Suncourt-Inductor-6-in-In-Line-Duct-Fan-DB206/100067594

http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-DF4-Duct-Fan-100/dp/B00F6BL11U/ref=lp_13399911_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1412050146&sr=1-1

You can find them at any big hardware store to check it out in person before buying too if you don't want to order online

Okay I just looked up the fan you were talking about in your original post and if this is the one, then how were you planning on attaching a carbon filter to it? It looks really flat like a jumbo computer fan and doesn't seem like it would be easy to both mount to your box and attach a filter to. Also, that type of fan generally doesn't have very good suction/air pressure. They can have a decent CFM rating and are useful for circulating air within the box or as exhaust fans without a filter, but once you introduce something that impedes the flow, they don't have enough force to push air through well. I originally thought you were talking about this type of fan

Either way, if you do end up getting a speed controller on any kind of fan, it is important when using it to start the fan up at 100% speed, then lower the speed down to your desired setting, not start it at 0 and turn it up or start it at the final speed.

I understand being overwhelmed at first here, but I couldn't imagine trying to figure it out from a different language, so props to you! You can definitely build your own setup, or you could purchase a grow tent. The sizes range anywhere from 4x4x7' (or 4 feet by 4 feet wide and 7 feet tall), smaller, bigger, there's something out there for everyone. Some common lighting sizes with MH/HID (metal-halide/high intensity discharge, just different styles for different stages) bulbs are 400W, 600W, 1000W or so I've seen on here. You could also go with LED lights, but I don't know much about those. It depends on how many plants you'd like to grow and the size of your space.

As far as fans, I would get more powerful inline fans like this or this to actually move the air around if you're planning a bigger grow. If you're not too worried about a carbon filter, which it never hurts to be, maybe you could try making a DIY one with some supplies from your store and a guide from this sub?

Hope this helped, best of luck and please update us! (ps your English is actually fine and easy to understand)

This is why I'd never buy a smaller fan. Not only do you have to make up the difference, but you have to do it in such a small area, which is even tougher. If it were several inches, you could slap up some new drywall scraps and then mud/paint. But 3/4", that's like doing drywall surgery. Pain in the butt.

If possible, I'd go up in size. Even if it's just 3/4" in the other direction, it's just cutting drywall. That's easy.

Check out the Panasonic Whisper line. I installed one in my basement bath and it's awesome.

EDIT: I see now you're saying the bezel does cover the hole. In that case, I wouldn't worry about it so much. You can probably stick some foam backer rod or other cheap weatherstripping in there. It's going to be hidden, anyway.

EDIT 2: Someone else rec'd expanding foam. Indeed, that's probably the most ideal solution. But I wonder whether you'll have anything to back it. I'm imagining a 3/4" gap between drywall and the fan enclosure, with literally nothing above. Just open air. So, if you spray foam up there, it's just going to fly up into the joist bay. I suppose maybe you could spray it directly on the side of the enclosure. If it sticks, you can build it up that way. Also, expanding foam can get VERY messy and it sticks to everything. Have water and maybe even acetone nearby for cleanup. Wear gloves. Good luck!

Programmable light switches are super handly for when you're out of town and want to make it look like you're home, and if you're forgetful about turning off lights.

Keypad deadbolt never worry about getting locked out. If someone is house sitting you can give them the code and then change it when you get home.

Energy saving outlets are great for things like charging cell phones or computers and keeping your power bill lower.

Wifi thermostat. I think Nest is overrated and expensive for what it is.

Electric crockpot-pressure cooker-rice cooker-yogurt maker. This thing does it all, seriously. Pressure cookers are awesome for getting things cooked quickly so you can buy cheaper groceries (dried beans vs. canned). Slow cookers are great for tough pieces of meat, roasts, soups... They're also great in summer as they don't heat up the whole kitchen. It being multi-purpose is a bonus for kitchen space.

I've got the exact same machine.

- I run my Air pressure at about 100-120 PSI.

-Be sure the keep your lenses clean. I cracked one in my first week due to stupidity.

-Be sure your air is on. The machine wont run if the chiller isn't running, so you don't have to worry about that.

-Be sure to pull your collection tray before it is full, otherwise you are going to be pulling bed slats to get the excess out.

-Spend $100 bucks on amazon and get a different blower for exhaust. The one that comes with it is super loud. I got one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tjernlund-M-6-Booster-Hydroponic-Conditioning/dp/B005XNNYMU/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=6%22+blower&qid=1564068420&s=industrial&sr=1-13

-If you are cutting metal, be sure you are using oxygen and not compressed air

-Have Fun. The boss is a great machine. Just start playing and learning and if you get really really stuck, boss laser tech support is awesome

Thought I'd chime in. I just got my airbrush compressor and airbrush last Friday. But I'd done a bit of research and had a plan.

I built this out of parts from Amazon totaling $50 and a cardboard box.

The main components are:
An air filter. Try and get something that filters more particulates. Like smoke, mold and pollen, but a nice one if you aren't blowing the stuff outside.

A cheap 4in hose like you'd have behind your dryer.

This thing. Dust Hood for 4-Inch Hose

And the Air Motivator

Though I'd recommend getting a different vent booster, as this one is a bit weak. But it does work. The great thing about a vent booster is 2 fold. It's already 4 inches wide so it fits right on the 4 in hose. And it's at the other end of the hose. So the noise is very muted. Though this fan is pretty quite. I'd say it's more quite than a tiny desk fan.

Oh. And we can't forget. About a kilometer of Duck Tape.

I bought a house in March and had the intention of going all in on HA, but so far it hasn't exactly panned out. budgeting for a few good products as i go.

BUT, Here is what i started with so far. I've settled with silo'ed stuff so far. This is what i've done, others will probably have stronger recommendations though.

1. a good wifi router.
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z0V2NQ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
2. Power meter
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XOZG0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
3. thermostat
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZEQH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
4. 4x wifi cameras
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145OQTPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
5. entertainment http://www.amazon.com/Sony-STR-DN1050-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00JC31SEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452667821&sr=1-1&keywords=str+dn1050
   
   Yes, that's 5 separate apps on my own Note 4
   
   Next on the list is a zwave hub and garage door controller.
   
   

Personally, I use this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E6M23C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_cuOCAb6Y51VGP). It's not intended for mountain biking, but you can securely attach it to bars via bunje cords. It's extremely bright, casts a huge angle, and illuminates 30-50 feet ahead. I've been using it for group rides with my buddies, and it's powerful enough that if we stay close to each other it's the only light source we need. Certainly not the most practical solution though.

Well right now I'm running a bit bare (actually on a smoking hiatus until I cement this job I'm hankering after) but right now I have a draft guard under my door (here's an example).
Otherwise for the longest time at my old place I also used (and plan on reinstalling before the winter) some weather stripping around the door too (like this) that is just great at keeping cold air out and skunky smoke in.

A really cheap and honestly practical solution, and it'll help keep bugs and cold air out of your home. Win-win.

Nice setup. You can save some space by using a 7 or 10 gallon cloth pot, and cutting it down (so, 6" tall and 14" wide).

You probably don't need an intake fan in a tent that size, just a 4" hole with some light proofing (cut-to-fit furnace filter works, or some ducting).

For the outtake fan, maybe look at a 6" duct fan with a speed controller attached. Or even a 4". Better to have too much airflow, and be able to dial it down. If you ever expand, duct fans make good intakes.

Oh, and paint the inside of the box white. For better light reflection, and also to waterproof your plywood a bit.

Ok cool, so there really isn't anything out there that I was missing. Something like this should work, too, right?

MHCOZY WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Relay Module for Smart Home 5V 5V/12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/

I would have to use the eWeLink app on my phone and IFTTT to make things talk to one another. I wish there was a Smart Life (Tuya) dry contact sensor or switch to use. I already have a bunch of their smart plugs and would have rather used the same Smart Life app that I am used to.

First of all, thanks for sharing the video. I think metal casting is really interesting, and it's great to see how different people approach it.

> It's ok to be brutal.

Alright -

I really hate the music you used.

I'm also not a big fan of videos where that show the entire process at 10x playback (or whatever speed) - to me that indicates that you're showing too much. When I see videos like this, I click through around the timeline to find the interesting parts. Show the critical parts at regular speed and cut out the extra bits. Tell me (or show me) why something is a critical step.

Increase your lighting for better video. Do you have some work lights? Get two of them as close as possible to what you're working on at different angles and try filming like that (the closer you have a light source to a subject, the more even it appears. Far away lights appear as "points"). Set the white balance on your camera to account for the color temperature of the lights. Or if you have any kind of desk lamp, try pointing it at whatever you're filming. You'll have to experiment with what looks best with what you've got.

During the wax carving section, a huge portion of the frame felt wasted. You could have gotten much tighter on the actual carving, which would have drawn me in more than looking at a 90% static shot. Again, slowing down here and showing why you make certain carving decisions would have been more interesting. For instance, why did you carve out the middle then re-fill it? I had no idea what was going on there.

I felt bad for the clippers you used to get the wax out of the can. They look like flush cut electronics clippers, which usually say something like "For Copper Only". This indicates that using them on harder metal (like a can) will damage the cutting surface. But they're your tools.

From a PPE perspective, I would strongly consider wearing leather boots while pouring molten metal. But I can be clumsy at inopportune times and I like my toes.

If you are camping at a spot directly next to the car, and you have a car like a jeep where you can actually sleep in it comfortably, certainly take advantage of that. It will be more comfortable and you don't exactly lose any sort of experience. The tent is for sleeping only, not for experience gaining or enjoyment. You will still want a pad of some sorts as the bed of the jeep is obviously really firm. If someone looks down on you for doing that, perhaps remind them that camping next to the car is not exactly sporting for an experienced hiker. I am going into a campsite 9 miles in next week as an example, and I'm not what I would call advanced.

I use this as an ultralight cheap groundcloth if you do happen to tent: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHY1P0/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just asked a similiar question not long ago and looked at many premade kits, I feel like I got a way better setup doing it somewhat separately, I looked at stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/BloomGrow-Reflective-Ducting-Hydroponic-24X24X48/dp/B0757YRKW7/ref=sr_1_49?m=AOALYYYVUG1U0&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1561412214&s=merchant-items&sr=1-49&th=1 , and eventually purchased this stuff, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ETLC7M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 160$ actual wattage is like 250-275 ish

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LG55T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 120$

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJ4VWF7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 70$

It is like 75-100 more expensive but I felt like it was a huge jump in quality for the money invested. Thanks to the people who advised me to buy not as a complete kit.

Keep doors to unused rooms closed. Electric is very efficient, it's just that it's usually more expensive than gas. Light bulbs double as 100 percent efficient heaters. Fans on low generate heat and, if spinning in the proper direction help circulate warm air from the ceiling. Depending on your gas heater, some thermoelectric fans are pretty helpful.

Agree with the CO monitors. I have a Nest monitor and it doubles as a nice nightlight.

If you have electric baseboards or forced air, they can be more efficiently controlled with a new thermostat. Chances are you have the shitty twist knob ones that heat the room to 90 then turn off until it's 50 again.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=baseboard+thermostat&qid=1571606653&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/TOMERSUN-Powered-Fireplace-Circulating-Efficiently/dp/B07VQNGKLK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=thermoelectric+fan&qid=1571606558&sr=8-4

https://www.hansenwholesale.com/ceiling-fans/fan-direction-summer-winter

I agree with you. And for about the same price, you get a much better and much quieter fan. I have two Panasonic WhisperCeiling 110 CFM fans and they are amazing. I paired them with a discrete timer switch and I feel like i'm living in luxury. Very easy to install. It appears Amazon is out of them right now, maybe discontinued the model, not sure.

Wow thank you so much, this was very helpful. :)

​

If i am understanding you correctly, this is the new diagram (https://imgur.com/a/Y6XohGa).

1. Use the red and white power lines from the wall and connect them to this buck converter.
   
2. Configure the buck converter to change the voltage from 16 volts to 5 volts.
   
3. Connect wires from the buck converter to this bridge rectifier to convert the power from AC to DC.
   
4. Connect the wires from the bridge rectifier to the two power ports on the WiFi Relay
   
5. Solder the wires from the relay on the Wifi Relay to the two pins that activate the buzzer
   
6. Voila! :D
   
   ​
   
   One question I had was can I use the existing red and black lines to power both the original unit and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay? Would i just cut off some of the plastic coatings of the black and red wires somewhere in the middle and wrap the other wires around the two?
   
   My thinking is that this would effectively make two "ends" for the wires that i can use to power the existing circuit board and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay.

I know this is a shitpost, but if you used something like this it would look pretty clean. I use it on my windows during winter and once you shrink it tight it almost looks like glass.

Set up was super easy, old port screws right off and you screw the new one right one and then slap on a filter and a fan (any carbon filter should do but here’s what I bought that works well)

VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMBU6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

VIVOHOME 4 Inch 195 CFM Plastic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HFVTYX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And finally some ducting-

iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Aluminum Foil Vent with 2 Clamps, Ducting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPE3XHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CfrZCb6YXV1V7

This really works well for me. The smell otherwise is intolerable. Carbon filters are really amazing.

These are my most used tools for working on cars.


Trim tool - For molding and trim and windows, this is a must

http://www.amazon.com/No-Scratch-Tools-Removing-Fastener-Molding/dp/B000LNBLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692539&sr=8-4&keywords=bmw+tools


Tool Set - Here is your best bet for general tools. Start with this basic tool kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-96-011-170-piece-Mechanics-Tool/dp/B002VXN6TG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692665&sr=8-4&keywords=automotive+tool+kit

Code reader - then this so you can read check engine codes and properly fix the issue. This is a tool that will save you so much money.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692484&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+2+scanner

Jacks stands - Not so important but pick up some cheap jack stands

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692837&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands

Light - And a very helpful thing is a good light

http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-1002-Halogen-Project-Light/dp/B000FW7UH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692872&sr=8-2&keywords=work+lights

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FLZEQH2?pc_redir=1414420630&robot_redir=1

Love it, cake to program via WiFi, and getting email alerts for certain environmental triggers is awesome. That and adjusting the thermostat remotely in the case of an unexpected schedule change is nice.

Ceramic Tile Heater

These things are awesome, they each use as much electricty as a 100w light bulb.

We use them in the bedrooms at night. We'll turn them on about an hour before bedtime. Then when we go to bed, we'll turn the heat way down. The tile heaters do a great job at maintaining the room's temperature throughout the night.

In the morning, our programmable thermostat slowly warms the place back up.

We've saved about 40% on our heating bill last year.

I'm a building inspector in Washington state. This sounds about like our ventilation code.

Positive drainage 'plane' is probably what you are looking for. Ideally, IF you had any condensation In your duct, they want you to slope it to the exit so it would drain outside, and not back inside.

We have a colder climate here than in Texas, and I haven't heard anyone mention it.

However, you still want to ventilate your bathrooms, kitchens,and laundry rooms because of all the moisture from bathing, cooking and doing laundry.

You choose, continuous ventilation at 20cfm, or intermittent ventilation at higher cfm(like 80-100).

1.5 sones is an indicator of how loud the fan is. That's a crappy loud, cheap low cfm fan....which means you'll hate hearing it run, and means you're likely to turn it off too soon. This means you'll get mold in your home...

Spend $120bucks on Amazon and get a better, quieter fan (Panasonic 80 cfm) which can run continous, OR intermittently.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TJAGO4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521439754&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=panasonic+bathroom+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41dkHb21dvL&ref=plSrch

As far as ducting... it sounds like they want you insulate (R-6) your ducts. This will likely also help with preventing any condensate inside. And it appears they won't allow a flexible connection at the exterior vent termination....don't know why though.

Almost all modern fans come with energy star rating, and backdraft dampers.

Electric requirement is for GFCI. Kinda stupid since fans are in ceilings, even in bathrooms, so no real danger of electrical shock...but not a bad idea I guess.

Good luck.

I have a Panasonic Whisperline 6" fan that I use to vent the hot air from my server cabinet. It wasn't cheap, but it is SUPER quiet. I have it sitting on top of the server cabinet 3 feet from my head when I am at my desk and I don't even notice it most of the time. It is seriously quieter than my bathroom fan, but it moves up to 240CFM. The cheap "grow room" fans you see on amazon are loud as hell. It is worth it to spend the extra money on a good name brand. The Panasonic is industrial rated for continuous 24/7 use (unlike the burn-your-house-down Chinese fans), and if installed remotely (like in an atic) is basically silent.

Good screwdrivers are nice, but you really need 6-8 sizes, and that's over $20.

A wonder bar is probably one of my favorites:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-515-12-3-4-inch-Wonderbar/dp/B00002X1XT

Although not technically a tool, a nice LED work light is amazing. With a bit of patience, you can find one with 1000+ lumens near the $20 mark. This one is more, but I needed an example before my bathroom break was over
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E6M23C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nIMOwbPB7M5NY

Wow, kerosine? My Dad grew up with kerosine heaters, that's old school!!! 15a, 250w, standard 120v outlet http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413063415&sr=8-1&keywords=eco+wall+heater

I've heard great things about these!

I was given a light for my birthday earlier this year by someone who uses them for work. It's available through Amazon as the 15W 24LED Spotlights Work Lights Outdoor Camping Lights, Built-in Rechargeable Lithium Batteries With USB Ports to charge Mobile Devices. I haven't used mine a lot, and it's got some funky blinking red/blue lights that I have no need for at all, but it works pretty well for under the hood, or other darkish places. This does have the battery, and it's not super bright, but for the cost, you can pick up several of them, and have really good coverage of an area without any problems.

And the best place to buy them? Amazon under clear window sheeting such as

Duck Brand Indoor Extra Large Window/Patio Door Shrink Film Kit, 84” x 120”

for only $3 !!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHW2Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_gCshDbC3DCPC2

Id' just install a fan in that hole. However, you MUST ensure it is rated for kitchen use. I had to install mine 45 degrees away from the stove.

I bought this one last year and it's great. It is so quiet we barely know it's on:

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-20NLF1-WhisperLine-In-Line-6-Inch/dp/B000EDUIX2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-5&keywords=panasonic+exhaust+fan+kitchen

You could use this in the hole: (I used two):

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-PC-NLF06S-WhisperLine-Accessory-6-Inch/dp/B00084UCH4/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z

Then I bought some 6" duct and a vent through the side of my gable. It did not take long to install.

I did hire an electrician to install the on/off switch and wire it all up though.

Pics:

http://i.imgur.com/pIaUVCg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gxflsr6.jpg

The closest duct in this picture is for the microwave oven.

http://i.imgur.com/ffVVKI9.jpg

Here are other options:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=panasonic+exhaust+fan+kitchen&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apanasonic+exhaust+fan+kitchen

Depends what kind of hub you have. If you don't have z-wave, you're options are pretty limited. Easiest and safest IMO would be a zwave baseboard thermostat. Something like this, depending on size of heaters, etc: https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Electric-Heater-Thermostats/dp/B01BYL1OAS

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000NHW2Z6/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

The duck kits are $3.17 on amazon like new as an add-on, and $3.52 free pickup at a Walmart near you. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Duck-Brand-Shrink-Film-Window-Kit-for-Extra-Large-Windows-or-Patio-Doors/15077940 Can make 3 40x84" from those.

oops. silly me :p didn't mean to imply that uk citizens could get these, just wanted to compare prices/give links for people in USA. for someone who is ok with a 6 foot length, UK has $2 kits: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulation-Heating-Draught-Excluder-Shopmonk/dp/B00NVI3DV6/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1504637204&sr=1-2&keywords=window+insulation+kit

Awesome. I'm also in Canada so here are a few Amazon links for ya:

Tent (or something similar) A lot of people suggest staying away from Vivosun but as far as tents go, it's pretty much all the same for the lower price range.

Exhaust + Carbon filter (or similar, and you will need a few feet at least of flexible ducting to hook it all up, should be cheap at a hardware store or on Amazon as well)

2 Clip-on Fans

​

and you're still left with a couple hundred bucks for AC if needed

You should be able to pull that metal part down to get better reach on it.

​

Go to your home improvement store and buy a new hose, you want a more metal looking one.

It should come with 4" hose clamps that screw to tighten them.

​

https://www.amazon.com/iPower-Non-Insulated-Aluminum-Ventilation-included/dp/B00EPE3XHY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dryer+hose&qid=1563120074&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

It is much easier to tighten these hose clamps with a nut driver or nut.

If pionner dont have them i dont know either, but I think you can easily adjust something for that, its not like you need to move the speaker constantly.

Something like:

• velcro
  
  
• rubber feet and make an ark with a cutter
  
• wood blocks sanded to make an arc + velcro on top to stop vibrations
  
• foam blocks
  
• original speaker foam pads
  
• Foam door sealers trips
  
  I can think of several of thing you can put on the speaker to adjust it, it just depends on how you want it to look.
  
  The cheapest would be a sheet of foam, you probably have some laying around from packages, cut it with a cutter to your desired size and just put your speaker on top, the foam will keep it in place.

https://www.amazon.ca/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Electronic-Thermostats-Smart/dp/B01BYL1OAS/

I use these z-wave thermostat's for my electric baseboards...I quite like them as they are easy to set up and configure. I use a pi running HA and a z-stick.

Now if I can only figure out how to get the "outside temperature" feature to work with a virtual temperature sensor....

the nice thing will be in about 7 months when it's 'this cold' again, it'll be such a relief you'll be out in shorts and driving with the windows down.

get some plastic to shrink around your windows, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-Indoor-5-Window-210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0

I appreciate your input, I will be making some changes soon. Trying to keep it easy on the wallet, do you think a 240CFM fan would work for cooling the bulb?

I have 2 of these installed in my house:

Panasonic FV-20NLF1 WhisperLine 240 CFM In-Line Fan, 6-Inch Duct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUIX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qXhdAb0376KVX

They are awesome! We had a roofing company come out and install roof vents, and the flapper is contained in them, not the fan itself. The in-line fans are much quieter than a fan with the motor installed at ceiling level. And they are easier to install in my opinion since they just have to be screwed up to attic rafters.

Sure, but like:

• These.
  
  
• Brush Weather Stripping
  
  
• or like these

http://www.amazon.com/HONEYWELL-TL8230A1003-Thermostat-Electric-programmable/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449934976&sr=8-2&keywords=honeywell+line+thermostat

I have this one, works great - nice back light and programmable

Ahh got it. It's very important the smells don't come out. That's the main reason I'm running such a long duct out to the window. Here's a link to the fan/filter combo I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LG55T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I also bought a speed controller because the lowest speed setting on the fan out of the box is pretty loud. Do you think I need the fan on full blast? Tent is 72sf.

Sadly you have a direct voltage / line voltage setup (240V). You'd insta-fry your Nest with this.

​

The best you can get (I've been in your situation before) are these: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/r

​

Which still make a huge difference, cost savings wise, to what you have.

Overhead Door is the only company that comes to mind for any reputable company in the area. You can actually mod an existing garage door to do different things. I found some resources from Amazon a while back. I have a LiftMaster, so I saved this stuff for myself. I'm sure that you can find easy solutions similar to this. Greetings from Hanover.

Liftmaster 888LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Wall Control Upgrades Previous Models 1998 (and later) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8BFG0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ebl1DbZCCAZZ0

Chamberlain/Liftmaster Cigbu Internet Gateway For Myq Technology Enabled Garage Door Openers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7CDSQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bcl1DbM8CD8JJ

If you are a diyer you could use a nodemcu(ESP8266) https://smile.amazon.com/KeeYees-Internet-Development-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B07HF44GBT/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nodemcu&qid=1575090035&s=electronics&sr=1-4

+ quad relay board(https://smile.amazon.com/Huayao-Channel-Optocoupler-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B07DN8DTRW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=3+channel+relay&qid=1575090005&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNzVXTkU1VFE4MkZKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMzMDI3MVczRDJDUzk2NzQ2UiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDEwODgzMkgySFREVTBEU0VRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==)

+ project box and some wires

Both the relays and the nodemcu power off 5v so you could just use a cell phone charging brick to power them. You could have it controlled via a lightweight webpage or you could just have the phone use REST API to send messages to trigger the open/closed/stop.

​

​

EDIT: Or more simply, 3x https://smile.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG + ewelink app. Personally I am more of a fan of the DIY opinion as I like local control without phone home worries

Okay, I got this.

G4Free 40L backpack - $18.99


Paria Sanctuary Sil Tarp - $79.99


Polycro ground sheet - $7.98


Sleep pad - $16.79


Down throw - $31.95


Ultralight, summer set up straight from Amazon for about $150.


edit: oops, you said no tarp. You could add the bug net for $65 and be at ~210 for an ultralight, modular set up. Could also subtract the polycro sheet and save a few bucks if you buy the inner net.

I'm looking to do this too, and it looks like the Stelpro KI STZW402WB+ is the way to go as /u/jryanishere mentioned.

It's worth noting, that hooking a Nest up via a relay is NOT supported. Nest have taken down their community forum that had a good guide on how to do it. There are others on the web, but I'd steer clear.

Skimped out in what way? Telling you about what I do, or not managing effectively?

​

Here's what I did with the rack. I've sealed the front and back of the rack. I then mounted a 6" Tjernlund Blower (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XNNYMU/) capable of 530 ft\^3 /min of airflow (major overkill, the rack is only 32ft\^3). Attached to it is a Duct Fan Speed Controller (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007TFTITS/) that I have to throttle down the airflow. I use it mostly to balance out the noise to heat ratio. The blower is amazingly effective, but it is also amazingly loud when running full-tilt. To that, I attached a long length of metallic dryer hose that basically dead-ends into the drop ceiling and runs a few feet. Ideally I'd like to exhaust it to the outside, but it doesn't currently. I think this is why I still have heat issues.

I have almost the same opener as you. I wanted something simple to allow remote open/close and notifications if it's been open. I didn't really want the complexity of SmartThings so I went with the Chamberlain Gateway. It works great and you can setup custom push notifications that notify you through their app.

i'm looking at this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XNNYMU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

and:

http://www.amazon.com/Active-Air-720-Inline-8-Inch/dp/B002JQ4K1I/

would these be considered good quality? or do i need to spend roughly twice as much?

thanks for the info.

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hyk1BbSPGZBWT

The whole web interface got scrapped because developer quit on me, it works but i wasnt happy the way it looked or the way it worked just in case heres the link:

Dashboard | GPIO Server

EDIT: They are private, when i get home i will make them public

​

I also uploaded the code im currently using for Homebridge (Siri Video Intercom), Home Assistant (tablet mounted interface), Telegram (voice recording of visitor) for another reddit user here it is:

Smart Telegram Intercom

My first time actually sharing my code so just send me a DM if you need any explaining or help setting up

Thanks. A electrician friend checked it out and looks like 240v pulling about 13 amps. Wired up with 2 wires currently, but he recommended this control and to adjust the way it's wired right now. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483460790&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+line+voltage+thermostat

This is the Keter Folding Workbench

And this is the Kreg KWS1000 Mobile Project Center

Depending on what you plan to do, this could be a good solution for the apartment woodworking you want to do.
These are by no means equal to a heavy sturdy self-made workbench, but they do get the job done, are practice, mobile and easy to store.

I have the Honeywell RTH9580WF and it works with my Echo. It also works with SmartThings, but I rarely use SmartThings to control it. Honeywell's app works well, although it's a bit dated looking.

As far as fireplace switches go, there have been a few threads on this subreddit about it, I recommend searching for them.

I used one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-20NLF1-WhisperLine-In-Line-6-Inch/dp/B000EDUIX2

Placed in basement utility room. Intake of duct fan comes from the output side of the 3rd floor system. Output of duct fan blows to a register in basement.

So when I turn this fan on it turns over the air from all three floors. In the winter we heat with a wood-burning stove on the basement level so this helps keep everything stable. In the shoulder seasons where we have only light cooling needs, it lets us only run cooling only on the third floor and the other floors balance out. In summer we run both ACs.

Polycro makes a good ground sheet. Here's a good source

From my research, there was only one truly safe space heater for toddlers

UPDATE:

Stopped in at my 2 local grow stores and holy markup batman. One of the stores took out and showed me a Can-Fan HO 6" (Best fan they have according to the grow store guys at both stores...) and truthfully I think my cheap ass ventech fan is better quality...

But the best part is one store wanted $190 for the can fan while the other was asking $230 FOR THE SAME FAN that sells on Amazon for $130 talk about freaking markup.

I really wanted to give my local grow shops some coin but not with the crazy inflated prices and limited selection... Oh yeah both grow stores quoted me Prices for the Vortex S-Line 6" as well. One store was somewhat close at $230 but the other one wanted $310 for the damn thing that growershouse.com sells for $183 with free shipping.

Anyways just needed to vent about the ridiculous prices and that I found and my thoughts on the can-fan HO. Be sure to price check everything you buy at a grow store (other than soil prices seem standard) or you will most likely get ripped the fuck off...

So I just built a new house, and the builders installed a MyQ-compatible motor (has the little MyQ logo on it). In this case, all one would need is this.

If your garage door is NOT MyQ-compatible, one would need this instead. This option is able to control non-MyQ garage doors. From Amazon: "MyQ Garage works with most major brands of garage door openers made after 1993. Compatibility is based on whether existing garage doors and openers are equipped with adequate safety features, such as sensor eyes. For more information about compatibility, visit Chamberlain.com/MyQGarage"

For electric baseboards: https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Thermostat-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

For the main oil heating zones, I would honestly do a few more z-wave thermostats then pull it all together with your home automation software of choice (Home Assistant, HomeSeer, Smart Things, Wink, etc...)

Depending on what was used for floor heating, you may not be able to do much with this besides wire something for on/off.

Ok how about this one? I could get two if needed and still be around 100 bucks with this grow tent. Then I just need the light and I'm golden. Actually won't even really need the light until I'm ready to flower, as I think I have enough light power now for a solid veg.

Thanks! I used this fan with this speed controller, but i found the speed controller only worked over a very small range on the dial. I will likely replace the fan when I automate it with a Rapsberry Pi controller.

I wanted them to update this one to home kit, benefits are it directly connects to your router and requires no additional tilt sensor.

I have been using it and works great with home-bridge and Home Assistant.

Electric baseboard units typically have line-voltage thermostats, which the ecobee3 (or ecobee3lite) is not. So you need a different solution if you want to make them "smart", such as the Stelpro KI STZW402WB+, along with a z-wave controller.

For your radiator, you can use either the ecobee or the ecobee3 lite depending on how uniformly the radiators heat your downstairs. If there are hot/cold spots, then the ecobee3's sensors may be useful.

VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM Inline Duct Fan with 6 Inch Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B3LG55T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c-jDCbWSB7ZQS

This is what I have now, but I don't really expect the carbon filter to last more than a year. For now though, it works great. No smell at all.

Rockwell Jawhorse used to make a workbench attachment quite similar but I don't see any for sale anymore although the miter table is available which makes a good sub, and you could always get a jaw horse and make something custom. It has a saddlebag component for holding tools.

Also maybe this thing:
http://www.amazon.com/Keter-17182239-Folding-Work-Table/dp/B001CWX26Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405813718&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=rockwell+jawhorse+clamp

That depends on how long-term you want it to be. You can put two 2x4's on the flat on your garage floor, put the shelf board on top of that and set your blade depth correctly and be fine (note the blade goes on the outside of the supports, not between them). A step up from that would be a pair of sawhorses (build or buy) and a sheet of plywood (optionally ripped in half lengthwise and doubled over). Another option is a pair of sawhorses and a solid-core door. Beyond that, you can make a real workbench, anything from a few 2x4's and a sheet of plywood up to a Rubou bench. The "newfangled workbench" has some cool ideas in it if you decide you want to build a full bench. If you want something prebuilt and portable, you can get something like this, which looks pretty cool but I have no first-hand experience with.

You want a centrifugal or a "mixed flow" fan, with the latter being supposedly quieter. I just ordered one of these to replace my pair of cheapo axial fans: Can Max Mixed Flow 6" 334cfm

None of these fans are silent by any means. The cheap axial fans are the loudest in my experience.

Paired with a speed controller, carbon filter and insulated ducting, the centrifugal fan cooling my lights is fairly bearable.

Have you tried this yet http://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Window-Insulator-1-Window-Style/dp/B00YP5AVFA/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452584803&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+window+insulator+kit Install it and shrink it with a hair dryer works really well.

Fill in any visible gaps with something like this http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-Rubber/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452584803&sr=1-17&keywords=3m+window+insulator+kit

I use one of these for small projects and I love it:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001CWX26Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_sbE-zb3JKAP10

I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752P57ZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it has worked amazing with my garage door and google/alexa and its only 13 dollars

Thank you so much! This is perfect. I thought sanding to square was serving me poorly. I've been on the fence about buying a #4 Stanley for months, but thought it might be frivolous and unnecessary. I've been especially worried about how useful it is on my wobbly fold-up table.

Sounds like you are looking for a stat like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=psdc_2054378011_t1_B002Z7EBBU

I recently picked up a Keter worktable seen here: http://www.amazon.com/Keter-17182239-Folding-Work-Table/dp/B001CWX26Y, Surprisingly well-made and sturdy. Comes with some built-in clamps which can be helpful, too.

Link didn't work for me, but yes, the MyQ uses a hub. I think I have this one. It needs power and an ethernet connection, and needs to be close enough to the garage doors. The door opener might come with it?

*I found the item you linked, it specifically states hub not included.

Don't use a rangehood. Use a bathroom fan. Something like this:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TJAGO4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469377769&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=bathroom+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41dkHb21dvL&ref=plSrch

Wire strippers

• http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-2078309-Stripper/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=lp_553398_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1414522903&sr=1-2
  
  Cheap multimeter
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Digital-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter-Multimeter/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414522961&sr=1-1&keywords=multimeter
  
  Outlet tester w/GFCI
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414522993&sr=1-1&keywords=outlet+tester
  
  Heat shrink tubing
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/b?node=700782011
  
  Cheap work light
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-1002-Halogen-Project-Light/dp/B000FW7UH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414523082&sr=8-1&keywords=work+light
  
  A massive supply of various writing tools -- sharpies, grease pencils, carpenter's pencils.
  
  Should be able to pick all that up for <$100 and it'll make your life easier.
  

I was looking for footprint for my tent about a month ago and searched for different options. Finally end up getting this from Amazon. Cheap, packs tiny, lightweight and does the work. I already see another redditor recommending this here but adding the link to make it easier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHW2Z6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Look for a wall-mount heater (http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815787&sr=1-1&keywords=wall+heater)

$.03/hr to run them and keeps my apt nice and warm.

/u/tainttrauma, read his post again. He has electric baseboards. Those have line voltage thermostats. You've recommended low voltage units.

Yea, that's not gonna' work for him.

There aren't a whole lot of options for smart line voltage units. Especially if the baseboards have a fan incorporated into them.

This one MIGHT work. Need to see if it is compatible with O.P.'s units:

https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

I use foam weatherstripping like this under all of my tanks. I just stick it to the top of the stands. It's pretty cheap, and I think it works well. Can't say for sure because I've never had a tank crack from stress is many, many years of fish keeping. I figure it can't hurt, though. edit:more detail

Fan $74:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YXDQZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fan speed controller $21:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVYGPJQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ducting, $16:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DCES1TI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bowl that I used for a hood, $24:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYR0ZF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plus various bits of Home Depot screws, chains, eyelets, hose clamps and a stainless toilet flange to connect the bowl to the duct.

Sure:

• 4 Buckets from Lowe's
  
• Morsen 216W (55W) Grow light
  
• LED 5050 Strip w/ Power Supply
  
• Timer
  
• Carbon air filter
  
• 4" Inline Fan
  
  
• 4" Ducting
  
• Mylar blankets
  
• A roll of foil tape, roll of black duct tape, and a small bottle of tacky glue from Lowe's
  
• 1 1/4" wood screws from Lowe's
  
• An 80mm PC fan I had from before
  

Get this (or the Liftmaster one):

https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-CIGBU-Internet-Gateway-Enabled/dp/B00B7CDSQ8

Get this sensor:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=11987

Load this smart app via the Smartthings IDE

https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-myq-lite-for-liftmaster-chamberlain/49150

Enjoy!

Really? I'm on mobile but it's showing there . I'll just repost on your comment just in case.
Fan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F6BL11U/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_11?colid=2XHLEJUA6N9AQ&coliid=INJZA8XHNGF94
Filter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HT0GZ8/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_12?colid=2XHLEJUA6N9AQ&coliid=I4RUWHOCF7T3S

You don't want to use that bulb.

• Exposed halogen bulbs are super hot and very sensitive. You cannot get water, oil, dirt, or even finger grease on them or they will burn out (Even burst!).
  
  
• It's a mixed low/high beam bulb, so it has a little cap on the top to prevent blinding other cars and instead relies on the housing to reflect the light out. It projects almost no light straight forward. You'd also need to wire the low and high pins together to get the full 55w out of the bulb.
  
  
• H4 bulbs use a spring loaded pin to hold them in place, which might be hard to mount without something made specifically for it. Potentially that could be easier, depending on where you're putting it.
  
  Instead use an H4651. It's essentially a halogen bulb inside of a glass reflector case. It is a high beam. It is only two pin, but still uses the same connector. You can find these at any parts store, probably even Wal-Mart. They're cheap too. It won't get nearly as hot, and isn't susceptible to damage from water and other contaminants.
  
  In all honesty, if you just want a work light you're going to have a hard time beating out one of old standards.

I use this 530 CFM fan to ventilate my two rooms totaling ~175 Sq ft. Yes, it's quiet enough now that it is rubber mounted (don't mount these suckers right to a rafter. Vibration echos through the whole house).

Currently under $3 with free shipping as an addon item.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHW2Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm a motorcyclist - and that's one of the things that drove me toward the ultracompact side of ultralight. I'd suggest 1.5mil Polycryo footprint which is double the thickness of usual 0.75mil stuff, and a NeoAir ground pad inflated with the trash bag method which I find quick and easy (and use a much smaller/lighter trash bag than the video).

You can put up plastic film made just for drafty windows.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-5-Window-62-Inch-210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0

You can easily let a large pot of water simmer on the range top. Add water as required

I'd get the 12 sliding miter saw because it will do everything for the rest of your life. You will need it someday, or a friend. I got a Keter folding work table with a couple roller stands. The table can be used for other tasks.

What do you want to control it with? If it is just Wifi, then use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG

You would need to get another remote and program it to the gate. With a little bit of solder, you can attach wires to the button on the board. This guy's review of that product shows what you would need to do: https://www.amazon.com/vdp/2d41de2fcc14425f9ef192da63d2e047?ref=dp_vse_rvc0

This is my idea buy this unit

Black + Decker BPACT10WT Portable Air Conditioner, 10,000 BTU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLPUWG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rhgmDbH3D8P2D

Run a duct into my tent from my AC unit
iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Aluminum Foil Vent with 2 Clamps, Ducting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPE3XHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fjgmDbSBGP211

Then eventually connect both into one duct and vent out my window
Ideal-Air 736185 Branch, 4x4x4 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JLA4PE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3jgmDb3R218GH

So something like that? To vent cold air into my tent?

There are radiant wall panels you might consider. I don't have personal experience with them. Apparently in-wall or in-ceiling radiant heat is a thing, too.

Cool, maybe followup and lemme know how it goes. I bought mine in a pack on Amazon for $10: http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281065-Indoor-Window--120-Inch/dp/B000NHW2Z6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410985768&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=polycryo+ground

See: https://www.amazon.com/Duck-5-Window-Insulator-210-Inch-286217/dp/B000NHY1P0

It's basically additional insulation around the windows. This can really help if you're in an older house (or rental) where the windows are old and have air leaks.

I know the feeling of being too cold to work on stuff--I used to work in a home office that was FREEZING. I just got this awesome heater on Amazon that takes up no space and is actually quite effective in heating up a room. Might be worth the investment if you plan on working there the rest of the winter? It uses so little wattage you can even leave it on all the time so you don't have to wait for the room to heat up to work.

http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W

It's a work light, to see better with

you could use that shrink wrap window insulation and just cover the whole thing up. i used this, for one window it would take about 15m and a hair dryer, easy peasy.

If it's airtight, you're good. Otherwise, spend the few bucks and get a kit. They're cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-5-Window-Insulator-210-Inch-281504/dp/B000NHY1P0

Ventech is cheaper and better quality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WW4H8XY/ref=sxts2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483198392&sr=2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

i have electric baseboard and use a stelpro KI z-wave thermostat for control.

you'd need a z-wave hub to bridge the two systems (i use smartthings), and with this unit alexa doesn't have native thermostat control -- i had to install the alexa helper apps for smartthings.

right now i have an 'off' temperature setpoint and an 'on' temperature setpoint, so i just have to say 'Alexa, turn the heat on' or 'Alexa turn the heat off' to switch setpoints respectively. i can also say 'Alexa turn the heat up' and it bumps the setpoint by 5 or 10 degrees (i forget which, and i'm not home to check). asking alexa to turn the heat down just turns it off (with my setup anyway).

These industrial types of set ups are way better/cheaper/more efficient than the ones made for consumers.

Link

put hepa on the intake and carbon on the output.

Oversize the filters

Like /u/blackboard mentioned, purchase a carbon filter (4" or 6" depending on size of your setup/plant total) and also get the matching duct (4" duct for 4" filter and vice versa). Also, pick up an inline-fan. A simple and effective way to set it up is to connect fan to the filter, then connect the duct to the fan so it sucks the air through the filter and through the duct, out of the tent. If you have a grow light that is set up to be cooled, just connect the light to be in between the filter and the fan. Make sure you hang or attach the carbon filter higher up in you tent/box, so it removes the hot air. Vent the duct (which is blowing out the warm/stinky air to the outdoors if possible. You can have another inline-fan/duct setup blowing into the tent, but it is not necessary. Just make sure that you have a hole or small opening on the lower, opposite side of your box for fresh air to get sucked in to replace the hot stinky air that your blowing out through the filter/fan/duct.



If that doesn't make sense to you, I can PM you a picture of my current setup.

Deep breaths - one day at a time, just divide little things to do and tackle them one at a time. Maybe in the meantime you could get your son some LED battery-powered lights like these, this, this, or this. It's not the same as running some electrical in, but it will do if he wants a little bit of time to himself reading before bed.

One thing that can help with doors and some windows is weatherstripping (if yours is old or missing). It goes all around the edges of a door jamb and is compressed when the door is closed, forming a (nearly) air tight seal.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-16-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=lp_495372_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815640&sr=1-1

You may need a different size than that.

530 cfm $90
440 cfm $73
Just search inline fan

Chance are that those baseboard thermostats are 'line voltage' units. Either 115v or 230v AC. Which means that they control the units by turning the power to them on and off.

Conventional (smart) thermostats are low voltage. They operate on 24v AC. They tell relays to operate the system. You cannot use a low voltage unit on a line voltage device. Well, you can, for about 2 seconds. Then you let the smoke out of your new thermostat.

I have seen a StelPro unit, which is designed for your application. You might want to check it out:

https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

Mine is simply a flat panel that mounts to the wall, circulates heat via convection.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=psdc_510182_t2_B00FRFFC4W

Out of the way (an inch from the wall), while it gets hot to the touch it's not going to burn you if you rest against it, much less catch anything on fire (though, d'uh, don't hang towels/fabric on the damn thing).

Best investment I've made for a bathroom after a high quality toilet. I even have mine on a programmable t-stat so it's warm first thing in the morning for my wife as she's getting ready for work at 6am.

If you have old thin windows check into something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-Indoor-5-Window--210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0/

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-5-Window-Insulator-210-Inch-281504/dp/B000NHY1P0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542554177&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=window+insulation+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51MwulMV-xL&ref=plSrch something like this .. helps a lot

I'm trying to find some polycro for a ground sheet. Is something like this what I'm looking for? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHY1P0/

Here it is. So handy. I use it all the time and it supports up to 1,000 pounds
http://www.amazon.com/Keter-17182239-Folding-Work-Table/dp/B001CWX26Y

Would something like this work?

I've used 4 inch duct inline booster fans like this.

I like this one better.

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH9580WF-Touchscreen-Thermostat-Premier/dp/B00FLZEQH2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453931522&sr=1-1&keywords=honeywell+wifi+thermostat

The only 260 cfm fans I can find are duct boosters. Do you have something like this

It's the base of a work light, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hallomall-Spotlights-Outdoor-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B015E6M23C

Do you know how to tell which devices are compatible with this firmware? I have one of these, I'd like to get native compatibility with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752P57ZG

​

A speed controller wouldn't really work for that duct booster. It's technically a duct booster and no where near the power of an actual inline fan. So it can be argued that duct booster you linked won't be strong enough to pull through a carbon filter and exhaust the heat in a timely manner. But going by the math and accounting for the carbon filter resistance you'll be able to change the air at the rate needed.

Temperatures is a different story though. As I don't know what the ambient temps run or how hot those mars leds run you're better off just getting http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-IF6-Inline-Duct-Fan/dp/B004YXDQZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1457749739&sr=1-1&keywords=ventech+inline+fan and a fan speed controller and turn that down. It's better to get a stronger fan and turn it down rather than to get a low CFM fan find yourself unable to manage the temps and need something stronger.

As far as the tent is concerned those cheapo tents tend to be a big hit or miss when it comes to light leak and construction. But it looks as if most of the people on here have cheapo tents with no problems. Nothing a bit of duck tape can't solve ^_^

Panasonic FV-20NLF1 WhisperLine 240 CFM In-Line Fan, 6-Inch Duct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUIX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kaTBzbHS3FBBZ

Once again, it's Overkill.

I live in a high rise apartment in the middle of Philly so I have to take everything outside anytime I want to do anything. This has been a dream - sturdy work surface, breaks down and sets up in a heartbeat, has some clamps that come in handy, and weighs very little. www.amazon.com/Keter-17182239-Folding-Work-Table/dp/B001CWX26Y

Would something like this work? The other one seems really expensive for such limited functionality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016J2CYQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=28ZG1R5QKY6G4486AE4A&dpPl=1&dpID=413zl3TCkhL

Haven't taken the old ones down yet, just spoke with the condo manager...

Heat-shrink window sealer kits, at your local hardware store. They cost between $10 - $30, depending on the number/size of your windows. You run the double-sided tape around your window frame, stick the film to it, then shrink the film tight with a air dryer to make it basically invisible. Worth every penny.

This stuff - there are lots of different brands

You can get cheap headlamps just about anywhere. Or depending on what you do around your house, it's worth investing in a work light with a tripod/stand.

It’s this device, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hyk1BbSPGZBWT and it uses the eWeLink app to configure.

I want to be able to, for example, grant access to my in-laws so they can let themselves in, but without having them signed in to my Alexa account.

This is more of an Alexa or IFTTT question, as this same question could apply to my Lutron controllers, ecobee, etc...

I have electric baseboard heat in my basement.

This is what I use to control it.

It works great.

Beat's the hell out of my old setup of a transformer, relay, and standard stat.

Pick a controller of your choice to control them all. Home Assistant on a Pi would be the cheapest local solution to get going.

Amazon or any hardware store where it gets cold. They sell it as window insulation.
Duck Brand Indoor Extra Large Window/Patio Door Shrink Film Kit, 84-Inch x 120-Inch, 282450 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHW2Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g1grDbJX90TN1

I assume since you are looking at Nest that you are wanting a newer kind of "Smart" Thermostat. Here is the one that I want to install once I move into my house, Amazon Link. I believe that they may even carry them at Home Depot? It handles 110v.

Yes, 72" X 60" seems short for a ground cloth. Also, I think polycro comes in different thicknesses so make sure to get something appropriate. I've been using this stuff, .7 mil and 120" X 84" allows me to cut it into 2 1P groundsheets.

the ground sheet you saw in the tarp video is polycro. lightweight and pretty tough. You can buy it as a window insulation kit like this on the cheap and cut to size. It should be in 1-2oz range. Tyvek is the other option at 4-5oz

The statement about no smart thermostats for baseboard heating is not entirely accurate. Look at the StelPro:

https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Thermostat-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

I just installed mine last night, you need the my q internet gateway, not all openers come with it, but the serial number is on the bottom of the gateway. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7CDSQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479230823&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=myq

Eh, I'll probably catch flak for this but I hate pie cuts. I think it makes charge piping look like dryer duct, and I'd much rather go polished or powdercoated.

This is what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538780090&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=line+thermostat+programmable&dpPl=1&dpID=413zl3TCkhL&ref=plSrch

Air seal your windows

Frost King B2 Mortite Caulking Cord 19-ounce 90-Foot Long, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l01WBbJ6PPGSZ

Duck Brand Indoor 5-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 210-Inch, 281504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHY1P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L01WBbTRWFW1E

As an example for a smallish grow:

2 x 2 x 4 Tent: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074H5DKPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

Lights: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0752CL6KJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

Exhaust fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C82SYZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

Ducting: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EPE3XHY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

Timer: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MVFF59S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

Total cost: ~270 CAD

You're talking about moving air in & out of your cabinet.
This is inadequate.
You need to be talking about moving air in & out of the closet.

Three options:

Bathroom Exhaust Fan

Stupid bathroom exhaust fan sucks hot air out of closet and dumps it into the plenum space above the ceiling tiles.
Totally Ghetto.
Highly recommend you talk to building HVAC team, and perhaps dump exhaust into an HVAC return air duct.


APC ACF301

That cooling fan gets installed in the wall of your wiring closet.
When heat inside closet exceeds X then the fans kick on to pull the hot air out, and dump it in the hallway.
This is not an elegant solution - but it DOES work, up to a certain number of BTUs.


MovinCool Portable AC

These can run 24x7x365 for years. Just be sure to install a permanent drain for condensate water.
PLEASE perform basic annual maintenance (remove & wash or replace the intake air filters & inspect the drainage tubes for fungal growth).
They will require hot air exhaust either to the ceiling plenum, or to an HVAC return duct.

Weather strip

Window Sealing Kit

Foam Strip

They do make them, they're called in-line vent fans.

I'd go with 1.5mil PolyCro instead of 0.7mil most people use. It is, of course, twice the weight of the thinner PolyCro but still half of the weight of tyvek. At $3 a sheet (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHW2Z6/), you can make at least two (and possible up to 4 depending on the width you need). Just replace periodically.

Polycro sheet $6

• Daypack
  
• Footprint
  
• Use mug as bowl
  
• Uniqlo Airism Boxers

I just bought this one, which is advertised as 1.5 mil, but received the 0.7 mil instead. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NHW2Z6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

how many windows you got?, i did an entire house for around 20 bucks with this

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-Indoor-5-Window-210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0

Absolutely. They actually make window plastic kits.

For example, Duck Brand Indoor 5-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 210-Inch, 281504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHY1P0/

Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-5-Window-62-Inch-210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0

This stuff : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHY1P0/ref=ox_huc_add_on_msg_title_1?m=A3KP23DL7YRSLP

Your local lowes/home depot will have something similar.

Here you go. Don't ask why it has a leather jacket, maybe it's in a gang?

I assume you're talking about this


I had this device and it did everything I needed. That $99 model wasn't out yet when I purchased mine.

edit. I believe my $50 device only worked with Chamberlain garage door openers that had built in MyQ technology that made it compatible. I think the $99 device makes virtually any garage door opener compatible.

Is this different than the one at Amazon that is only $45?

4in fan

Ducting