Reddit mentions: The best distribution connecting blocks

First off, if this is all the electronics that you are planning on running you don't need a subpanel.

You should be able to get away with a 20 amp 120v receptacle. To be safe I'd run a 3 wire 12ga romex and run a 20amp receptacle with both plugs being on a different circuit. That way if you end up needing multiple power supplies you have the circuits for it.

The cheapest solution would be a computer power supply. They will be quite a bit cheaper than buying a legit 12v supply because they are a commodity item.

Easiest way to size it would be to tally up the fuse sizes in all the amplifiers and then multiply by that by the voltage (12) to find the required wattage.

You'll probably be fine with a 1000w power supply like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-Titanium-SSR-1000TR-Modular-Warranty/dp/B075M8FH4C/

If you read the specifications for this power supply you can see that it can output 83 amps on it's 12v rail. If the total draw of all the amps is under 83 amps then it can run them all.


Power Output
AC Input Voltage: 100 V - 240 V
Current: 11 - 5.5 A
Frequency: 50 Hz - 60 Hz
DC Output Rail +3.3 V +5 V +12 V -12 V +5 VSB
Maximum Power 25 A 25 A 83 A 0.5 A 3 A
125 W 996 W 6.0 W 15 W
Total continuous power 1000 W



Depending on how important reliability is you can buy a crappy chinese power supply but I'd recommend a decent brand name.

One thing with buying a computer power supply is that you need to make sure that you find one with a single 12v rail. That will make things a lot easier for you.

Once you have your power supply there's a ton of info on how to set it up to run your amplifiers. Here's one tutorial that I found: https://www.instructables.com/id/Car-Amplifier-and-Subwoofer-Powered-By-a-Computer-/

For your application I'd recommend a decent distribution block to make wiring easier
https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Power-Distribution-Block/dp/B01DCDG9JC

And if it is at all possible I would highly recommend returning the 12v amplifiers and buying 120v ones. It will make your life a lot simpler.

Yeah, this is totally my thing. IR extenders are awesome, and you want to go with Xantech. They make great stuff.

The connector block is the heart of it. Look for a Xantech 789-44 block. That takes the IR signal and pumps it out to IR blasters. This

The wall mount is a WL85. There's a couple variants, but mainly they sport various LCD / Plasma interference mitigation. I have several of these in my house and they are rock solid amazing. This

I ran 18-5 all over my house for IR. You don't need all 5 connectors, but the line is about the thickness of CAT6 and pulls really nice.

The cool thing is when you centralize all the connector blocks, you can use different IR blasters. They have 1 to 1 blasters. Blasters that split 1 to 2, etc. It means you could control the same component from two different locations.

Seriously check out Xantech's lineup of products. These Look at connector blocks, WL-series wall mounts, and the Dinky Links if you don't want to go all out with the wall mounts.

not bothering me at all - this stuff will literally set you free and give you the control to have power wherever, whenever, for the rest of your life. This is exactly why I wanted you to do this - you're learning! You start with a van, you make a small system for your home one day, then you're running a full electric house with an electric car and you built it all yourself - total self reliance.

It should be confusing right now, you don't know any of the info. Soon you will know it like the back of your hand.

Your wiring diagram is good. The reason you're confused about fitting 1,000 terminals to a single stud is because you shouldn't do it that way, you should use bus bars like this

Wire the charge controller, the battery, the inverter, and the fuse panel to the bus bars and you're good to go. Remember to put an inline fuse between your panels and charge controller for extra insurance like this one.

It depends on the gauge wire you are talking about for I assume your inverter. I type locally run 2/0, so some of these blocks are not designed for that size cable.

Here is a example of a single post that you can crimp lugs to the cable. Put the three wires from the coach on the lug and the new wire from the battery to the post. When you put that many cables on the post you may run into spacing issues so you may need a washer or bolt to evenly stack the lugs.

Here is a example of a four post block. Simple and easy to install.

Finally if you don’t have lugs and want something easy a compact distribution block may help you.

I am not in your area so I can recommend anyone local. Most chain auto parts and home improvement stores don’t carry these types of items in-stock if at all. I send some Amazon links which may help you.

Does anyone know whether general purpose USB-C hubs like this or this would allow the Switch to display via HDMI?

I need to get something like this for my laptop, and it would be great if I could also use it with my Switch. (Don't really care if it enables the higher-clocked docked mode or not.)

Edit: I'm quite happy to take a gamble and find out... but do these USB-C hubs also have a chance of bricking the Switch? Or was that just the 3rd party docks (like Nyko)?

Yes. Samsung sells the Dex cable but that's a bit overpriced. The ones on Amazon are pretty good, but tbh I'd just buy a hub

Because you can't charge the phone while using Dex.

What you need is a 4 channel amp for your internal speakers if they are not already aftermarket they also need to be upgraded. Trust me on this. It will be loud.

Edit: If your sub woofer is already powered by an amp. Its easy to use the same power source by splitting it with an adapter to power two separate amps. In my old SUV i had a mono amp for my 2x12”subwoofers and a 4 channel amp powering all the internal door speakers in my vehicle my nd tweeters got the same juice from the front door speakers. People used to say they could hear me coming from pretty far out.

Splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-Distribution-Stereo-Connecting-Splitter/dp/B07L952YC1/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=8%2Bgauge%2Bsplitter%2Bconnector&qid=1569537605&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1&psc=1

Welcome to the Surface family!

I've got a few USB-C to USB-A adaptors - I'd never tried them with a USB DVD reader, so I just gave it a go.

I've got the Aukey USB-C to USB3.0 adaptor and it worked fine, as did my Novoo USB-C hub. I used it to connect a single USB Samsung external DVD reader (there are some DVD reader/writers that use dual USB connections, I didn't test that).

The Aukey is super cheap and works fine, but I'd splash out and get the Novoo for a few quid more as you get 2 USB3 ports, SD/MicroSD slots and HDMI out. Always handy to have the ability to plug more things in!

DIY DEMARC

​

https://imgur.com/a/3HWiEMB

​

This was a new construction install, I wanted to mount the enclosure before siding. Used some scrap pieces of plywood to get the appropriate spacing for the vinyl siding to continue behind the enclosure. I wrapped the plywood with metal sheathing for protection from water. The siding guys did an awesome job tying it all together.

​

One feed for ISP docsis modem, another feed for satellite.

​

Bonded to home ground rod wire.

​

Yes, copper clad steel. Move along, it will work just fine.

​

https://www.amazon.com/CableGuard-CG-1500-Coax-Demarcation-Enclosure/dp/B00EKKDRTM

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KDJLLY2

​

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-25-ft-8-Gauge-Solid-Soft-Drawn-Copper-Bare-Wire-By-the-Roll/50372842

​

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blackburn-0-235-in-Copper-Split-Bolt/1000226327

OP something like -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NOVOO-Aluminum-compatible-MateBook-Chromebook/dp/B075FGQ988/ref=asc_df_B075FGQ988/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309968313994&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12213164658784420288&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006656&hvtargid=pla-376068451806&psc=1

May help you transfer straight from the card to the hard drive if you're phone is fast enough.

I would suggest taking a back up hard drive. Or if you can afford it, multiple ones so you can send back up hard drives home periodically. Alternatively you can send it to someone trusted get them to back up and send it back to you further along for you to collect and back up again later. You could maybe leap frog two to back up more often.

Meaning you'd only need 2 or 3 hard drives and as many sd cards as you can take.

You want an Arduino Uno R3 and a relay board to plug into it. Raspberry Pi is may more powerful and expensive than what you need and the Arduino is much easier to program. /r/arduino would love to help more.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Christmas-Light-Controller/

Relay Board

Arduino but you can get them cheaper elsewhere

wires to connect them

Im a big fan of lever lock terminal blocks (eg https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lever-Quick-Connecting-Terminal-Block/dp/B0039BQ4C0) available from all electrical wholesalers. The lever action puts exactly the right load on the wires to ensure a good connection without mashing the wires or strippping screwdriver heads.
As for “one in, many out” that concept doesn’t really hold, all you are asking is that all the wires are joined together.

I use this one with my SB2:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B075FGQ988/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works like a charm, using it on my 34" ultrawide monitor via HDMI!

Hey Spiffy, i just tested the adapter i ordered https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07DTRDCR9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but it does not work. I'll send it back and ordered this one instead https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B075FGQ988/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it works it's even nicer cause it would free up another port (goodbye usb bandwidth issues).

I'll report back on this and In Death performance.

!remindMe 5 days

With the winter approaching I would be tempted to use some wax oil to seal it till the spring then you can look at it in better weather.

I have used this before https://www.amazon.co.uk/HAMMERITE-WAXOYL-CLEAR-AEROSOL-PREVENTION/dp/B00FGUHVLK/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&srs=1649227031&ie=UTF8&qid=1539288344&sr=1-5

I think something like this is more versatile, because you can connect a usb stick or a wireless connector for a microsoft kit (keyboard + mouse)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075FGQ988/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Okay, a few things.

So they're not all the same, the fuse types I mean. But for our purposes, the differences hardly matter.

Here are some fuse blocks:

AGU

http://www.amazon.com/DB-Link-FB428-2-Position-Block/dp/B0002YE2SK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412641602&sr=1-2&keywords=fuse+distribution+block

Mini ANL

http://www.amazon.com/DB-Link-MANLFB428-4-Gauge-8-Gauge/dp/B001NCDAS8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412641602&sr=1-1&keywords=fuse+distribution+block

This also appears to be mini ANL

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Bassik-Gauge-Distribution-Block/dp/B00DJF6YBM/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412641602&sr=1-4&keywords=fuse+distribution+block

Just be sure, whichever you pick, buy the right kind of fuses to go with.

Hard to say since you're only showing a single piece of the connection. You're also using some incorrect terminology that is making it difficult to understand what's going on. Since there is only a single cable coming from your demarc, there should be something in your home where all the jacks converge, hopefully a 66block. You need to switch the wires that send the DSL from the current jack, to the jack you want it at, at which time you can plug in a Modem (not a router). From the modem you connect a router (some of these are combined as a single device, you need to confirm if yours is or not).

​

What you should really do, is have a DSL jack in your basement (or some central location) and run ethernet cables to that location so you can set up a proper network instead of having to move a Modem/router, like ever.

Yes but you’ll need a Distribution Block (this one is fused, to protect the amps if there’s ever a short or a problem with one of them).
Then you’ll need a few feet of 8 awg wire to split to your 2 amps, like this wire kit and then you’ll need
Ring Terminals to mount them to your ground. Remember to use 8awg for both grounds or you run the risk of bottlenecking your amp.

Amazon have Cpap water in various sizes

Distilled Water Container. 10 Litre Container Of Purified Water. Medical Grade Distilled Water https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003Q8RL78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ik7hDb0M07VXX

I ordered on Amazon France but here's the link to the one I bought : https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B075FGQ988/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BGH6Bb2CP341B

http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Water-Delivery-Company-Distilled/dp/B003Q8RL78/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1408258640&sr=8-3&keywords=Distilled+water

?

I mean you can buy inline fuel filters and just clip the fuel line in half...

https://www.amazon.com/BUSBARS-4-Post-Power-Distribution-Block/dp/B075X9MM8B?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00GRP4HDI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2BT5G4S82MCVR&coliid=I36I1O7C1JOE2R&psc=1

Definitely not a bug or hacking device, it's a 4 pair 110 type connecting block for ethernet cabling:

https://www.amazon.com/S110C-4-Siemon-4-Pair-Connecting-Block/dp/B0076B25N6

You can just get a small proto board (with the grid of metalized holes) and put two rows of male or female pin headers or screw terminals on it, and then solder all the underside pins of each row together. Connect one power supply wires to each row, and whatever else you want goes on the other pins. Cheap and quick, if you have the parts on hand.

Alternately you can buy parts called "power busbars" if you want the more-expensive, professional looking method. These are usually made for higher currents than what you need here however-- https://www.amazon.com/BusBar-10-Point-Distribution-Terminal-Screws/dp/B07FPN71NL

A DIN rail is a wall-mounted metal rail that a certain type of enclosure mounts to. It's not what you want here. You can almost certainly get DIN-rail power bussbars, but without a DIN rail to mount it on it's rather a waste of money.

> The real question is why home builders are wiring for POTS in the first place.

Quite often on installs I was doing VoIP over these wires, and/or alarm systems. Also, ADSL and VDSL signals come in on a single pair of copper in areas that don't have fiber (which is most of my area), and good quality POTS wiring is sufficient to get the signal to the modem.

In brand new construction my guess is that the wiring is put in with the expectation of Ethernet, but they cut corners and costs by only connecting a single pair at phone jacks and leaving a 66-block instead of a proper junction or termination in the basement. Heck, I prefer a nice bundle of loose wires with plenty of slack to a 66-block.