(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best gun accessories

There's a perfectly serviceable FAQ here which SHOULD answer the mail here, but for some reason, despite the frequency of newbie posts, no one on the mod team has increased the font size of that link on the sidebar SO PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY SEE IT AND READ IT (Seriously mods, get with it). I'll make a "Teal Deer" version even though I oughta know better by now.

1. I don't see any reloading manuals on that list. Buy at least two reloading manuals and read them. Did you read them? Yes? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? LiarGood. You still sure about this? Yes? Ok, now you may go buy your equipment. Notice how you bought and studied some manuals and then went to buy stuff? Ok, just checking.
   
   In addition to the manuals there's some good Youtube videos out there you can watch to see what the books are trying to explain, but realize some people have better habits than others. Some guys do some pretty trick shit, but that's for advanced users only; fun to watch, but not necessarily a "try this at home" type of thing.
   
   
2. If you're doing this for the money, most return on investment will be with the "uncommon" calibers, .30 carbine paid off my Lee Challenger setup after 700ish rounds. If you want to make pet hunting loads for each of your rifles you'll save dollars per round off premium .308 and .30-06 too. Conversely, it's hard to make a return on 9mm until you've bought components in bulk. Bulk in this case is defined as a couple thousand projectiles and multiple 8-pound cannisters of powder. Here's a good source for price comparison if you need some hard numbers to convince your wife to let you spend save money on this new wallet draining endeavor.
   
   
3. Opinions will vary wildly, but if you're dead set on starting but really aren't sure if you'll stick with it, get a quality single stage press. Scour your favorite for-sale-by-owner websites for used tools, and keep an eye out for deals on Amazon. If you don't stick with the hobby, a quality single stage will be easiest to get most of your money back on when you sell it on ebay or RapelistCraigslist. If you like it, a quality single stage will always come in handy when you make special pet loads for accuracy, even if you upgrade to a progressive some day.
   
   If you're plan to load for bulk, which I'm guessing is your case because you're looking to do 9mm, a turret/progressive press hybrid like the Lee Classic Turret Press, where you can take the indexing rod out and use it as a single stage if need be, might be a much better choice for you. You can start out learning in single stage mode and add the indexing rod later. Single stage and 9mm is TEDIOUS (Ask me how I know...I own a Challenger like the one you have listed) Opinions on progressive presses vary, and merely by mentioning the Lee I fully expect to receive at least a half dozen unsolicited opinions replies on the matter. A progressive is pretty much mandatory if your primary purpose is to chase savings by loading pistol calibers or .223 in bulk.
   
   Here's my recommended list of stuff; I recommend NOT buying the Challenger KIT, because most of the stuff you'll want to upgrade later or will find you'll never use it. Take the money you're saving by not buying the kit and get the turret press I mentioned above instead. You'll spend a little bit more on certain items by going a la carte because there are a few places where not skimping gets you way more value. Buy the dies from whoever you want, quality level is up to you. For plinking purposes, and even most special tuned loads, Lee is just fine.
   
   Buy the press and one or two calibers of dies, then buy a good digital scale, a good chamfer and deburring tool (not that shitty Lee abomination. Seriously, fuck that thing. Your hands will thank you), a cutter (plus associated gauge and shell holder for a drill), a powder funnel, a puller for when you inevitably dick it up, and a nice set of calipers and you're off to a solid start for under $350.
   
   We could also get WAY into tumblers and the benefits of wet vs dry, but I'll leave some leftovers for others to talk about.

1. Depends on your experience. If you're new to teching, getting something good off the bat is my recommendation. If you want a nice middle ground, get an ICS. Good internals out of the box, and split gearbox makes it easy to work on.
   
   
2. Flat-hop or r-hop for range and consistency. R-hop is better, but more difficult/time consuming, so might be worth getting it professionally done.
   
   
3. A good mask or goggles that don't fog are a must. A Dye I4 or Dye I5 are best if you want a mask, and the Pyramex I-force are very nice for goggles. For a lower face mask, if you're using goggles, the One Tigris mask is very nice.
   
   Mid cap vs hi cap is really just preference. Mid caps are more realistic, don't make any noise, and don't need to be wound. Hi caps are easier to load and hold a lot more ammo.
   
   UTG makes some good optics. I have their Magnifier and short dot, and their red dot is pretty popular as well. If you want cheap, the Field Sport red dot is supposed to be pretty solid. Bushnell and Primary Arms are on the higher end of micro red dots, at least for airsoft. I have the Primary Arms and it's real nice.

I'd recommend starting to carry around your house. You can start carrying unloaded if you'd prefer so you can get used to it. Then when you feel comfortable you can carry loaded. Getting the permit is easy, I just took some online course, but what's important is your safety and comfort level. From a safety standpoint, becoming comfortable with your firearm is essential.

As far as at home practice, I really enjoyed having this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NKY23E/ You can get it in other calibers too. It's not perfect, but it helped me practice my aim, especially while drawing. Its not necessary and I know it's not really cheap, but I really enjoyed having it when I first got into firearms and carrying. It helped me a lot with my accuracy. You can even buy targets that will beep or fall down when the laser hits them, but I didn't feel like it was necessary. I just focused on an outlet or something else small across the room and feel like it was good enough.

If you want real live firing training, I can't really help you there because I've never done it. What I've seen and what seems to make the most sense is ask your ranges near you if they offer private lessons focused on CCW or shooting from a holstered position.

Best of luck and am always happy to hear of another CCW person here. Nothing makes me happier than seeing a story of a citizen carrying helped stop a deadly situation that could have been a lot more deadly!

Here's my 2 cents.

• Don't get the kinetic bullet pullet. They are messy and break easily. Look at the Hornady Cam-Lock Bullet Puller and associated collet for your caliber. Works super well.
  
  
• With the Lee Gauge/Holder thing for case trimming. Stick that sucker in a drill (I use a drill press). I believe you will need this piece as well to hold the gauge.
  
  
• Drop the digital scale. The kit comes with a balance beam scale that's probably more accurate and doesn't require a warm up time. It's also not sensitive to what type of lighting you use.
  
  
• Highly recommend the Hornady Comparator for your calipers. It makes measuring the round much more accurate. You'll probably also want the OAL Gauge down the road.
  
  
• The Chronograph is nice but you won't need it until after you have worked up your load. Then you'll shoot a 10 shot string over it and not touch it again. It might be better to leave that for a later purchase or see if you can borrow one for a day once you're ready.
  
  
• I have a RCBS Rock Chucker and I converted it with the Hornady Lock-N-Load Bushings and it's awesome. I'm not sure if the lee can do that but it would be a nice addon.
  
  
• Buy a powder trickler. It will keep you sane and save you time until you can buy a automated trickler. It's big $$ but ultimately worth it.
  
  Otherwise good luck. Your first load will be scary but once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed at the accuracy you can achieve. Also the self reliance part is cool too!
  
  EDIT: If you're looking at a tumbler get the stainless steel kind. WAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY better than anything else. So good that I've switched to bring my brass to a buddy who has one instead of doing it in my media tumbler.
  

I am pretty much in the exact same situation as you. I have been researching moderately as we are hoping to start this winter. I just spent last weekend shooting with a guy who has been reloading for 40+ years.

He told me to first get a handbook. He recommended the two he had; Lyman 49th edition reloading handbook and the Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading. He said either is a good first choice, but mentioned Lyman's first, so that is the one I am getting.

The auto-progressive is what I have heard is the best setup for producing more ammo in various calibers. Usually more expensive from what I understand but by splitting it 3 ways should allow for you guys to handle it.

As far as everything else goes, I would consult the handbook. The handbook that you all purchase, you all read, and all try to fully understand front to back. Serious business when things go boom. Jokes aside, I am sure you are taking this seriously, but when dealing with explosive materials and things that can kill you, you have to trust your friend in making them as well if you are all splitting costs/liability.

On a side note - things that we have talked about in my group is a buyout option on the gear, you just never know when people end up having to move away, get married and their SO puts their balls in a vice and forces them to start chipping away at their collection/equipment. Or maybe they just don't have the time anymore.

Other things we have discussed is associating labor hours with ammo payout. If someone cant make it a few nights to help out, are they entitled to an equal 1/3^rd ?

Again, I don't reload, just sharing the advice I was given. I am sure utilizing r/reloading is part of your research, it's one of the reasons I subscribed.

Sorry for the length. Hope this helped.

Good luck man, and have fun!

The last thing he told me was "You're not going to save any money at all but going to shoot a lot more!"

TLDR: Get a good handbook.

I use receiver blocks purchased from amazon... they work just fine. In the past couple of weeks I've acquired many tools I'd consider essential to the amateur AR builder. Here's what I got so far:

• Schuster Roll Pin Starter Punch Set: These two starters make putting the lower roll pins, gas tube and forward assist so easy. There are better ones out there, but these work just fine and fit the roll pins perfectly for $18.
  
  http://www.midwayusa.com/product/694883/schuster-ar-15-roll-pin-starter-punch-set-2-piece-steel
  
  
• Sears Craftsman 6pc. Roll Pin Punch Set: These are to finish pushing the roll pins in without slipping/mushrooming the pins.
  
  http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pc-roll-pin-punch-set/p-00943167000P
  
  
• 6pc Drive Punches from Harbor Freight: These are okay for starting off, but I use a Weaver gunsmithing set... I will upgrade these when I get more money. For now they sit in my punch roll for range repairs.
  
  
• Model 1 Pivot pin installation tool: For $4 you simply cannot beat this tool... I wanted the Wheeler Engineering version, but they were sold out everywhere. This thing really saves your ass when you're putting lowers together.
  
  http://www.midwayusa.com/product/920248/model-1-pivot-pin-detent-installation-tool-ar-15
  
  
• Upper receiver block: This thing works pretty well, but I will upgrade to a hinged one with the insert where the BCG/CH go.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007LDRXWW/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Lower receiver/mag block: Great for tightening down castle nuts, installing pivot pins and changing out stocks.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J13VCO/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Tapco/Intrafuse AR-15 Armorer's Wrench: It's nice and has many features that are all labeled by stamping or engraving... the one marked "BEER" is a bottle opener, which is a nice touch. This tool has not let me down yet and although I'm not a fan of Tapco accessories, this thing is great.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Tapco-Intrafuse-AR-Armorers-Tool/dp/B006PTMYHM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1368590041&sr=1-1&keywords=tapco+armorers+tool
  
  
• US Peacekeeper Small Punch Roll: Very nice way to organize tools for the bench and on the go. It keeps all the AR-15 and pistol tools nice and tidy in my range bag.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044YGCA0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
  The only other tools I keep in my bag are a Nylon/Brass hammer & a Lyman screwdriver with common bits in the handle.
  
  I hope you guys can use some of this info for future use... any suggestions are welcome.
  
  

Press. The minimum I suggest to start with is a Lee Turret press. ~120.00. The turret allows you to perform multiple operations without removing the brass. When I loaded on the turret I would deprime/size then expand before pulling the brass into the bin. I primed off of the press. When ready to load I would drop the powder, set the bullet and crimp. So I only had to place the brass on the press twice. With multiple turrets you can set your dies up once and not need to go through the entire process each time.

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=sr_1_3?crid=24AI5JDUR2S42&keywords=lee%2Bturret%2Bpress%2B4%2Bhole&qid=1565045386&s=gateway&sprefix=lee%2Bturre%2Caps%2C478&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1


You will need dies. ~40.00-60.00. Lee dies work. I don’t like them as much as I do RCBS. If you get the Lee set get the set with the factory crimp die. If you get the RCBS or other company (the only other I have experience with is Lyman and they were awful) get a Lee factory crimp die as well. Crimping in a separate step from bullet seating will help you diagnose problems. Getting the crimp right is probably going to be your first struggle.


You will need a way to prime the case. $35.00 to 65.00. Do you want to prime on the press or off? I suggest off. Lee hand primers are decent. I suggest the RCBS hand primer however. When priming hundreds of cases at a time it is nicer on the hand. I use the universal. The only issue I have ever had is priming .45Colt. It did not want to hold onto the case very well. (I see that Lee has some newer models that I have not tried, these may be easier on the hands) To prime on the press just buy the tool for the press that you choose.


Powder scale. $35.00 to $100.00. I use the Frankford arsental digital. I check it with check weights before I start but usually don’t need to recalibrate. I have checked it against my Dillon scale as well as laboratory balances at work with acceptable results. They are not perfect and not as precise as other scales. Some have reported having problems with this model. I am using it for loading pistol loads on my progressive and the precision is good enough. Maybe I just got a good one. Get the type you are comfortable with. If you go with a beam scale don’t get the Lee, spend a bit more on a better RCBS scale.


Powder thrower. ~70-100.00. I use a Hornady powder thrower. I had the Lee Perfect powder measure. It is junk, don’t waste your money. Fine powders leaked past the barrel and large flake measured poorly. It is stiff even with ball powder. Get a Hornady, or RCBS and it will last you forever.


Brass cleaner$40.00-100. I use water with stainless pins.
Pros: No dust in the air of my basement, no cob bits in the flash hole, really clean brass, and media lasts forever.
Cons: Expensive to get setup, stainless pins can get lodged in the brass, it is necessary to dry the brass after cleaning.
I think the pros outweigh the cons but it’s my opinion. The cheapest way to go with this method is the harbor freight rock tumber, a piece of PVC (4” I think), an end cap and a removable fitting. If you want the particulars I can send you what I do.
Starting off it is probably easier to just go with the corn cob tumbler.


Brass trimmer. $40-60.00. I use the lee delux qk trim on my turret. I have used the lyman cam lock style trimmer, it works but is just not as convenient. The cheap Lee case conditioning kit is junk. You only need to trim your rifle cases but it is worth getting a decent trimmer.


Calipers. 35.00+. I use a set of Mitutoyos. You don’t need those, though they are nice. Just don’t get the cheap harbor freight calipers. I have used a friends Frankford arsenal calipers and they were decent.


Then you will need bins and hardware. Get some stackable bins that you will be able to get more of as you get more brass. Keeping my brass well sorted and put away is my difficulty. Usually there are bins, jugs, mesh bags etc. littering my benches of brass.
I usually tell people to expect to spend $500.00 as your startup cost. You can try to spend less but you will end up spending more by replacing the cheap components.

A basic cleaning kit, a bottle of Break Free CLP, some disposable ear plugs, and a pair of safety goggles shouldn't run you more than $30 total and will be perfect for what you want. As you get more involved and buy more guns you'll buy more gear, better cleaning stuff (boresnakes and the like), you'll find an oil that you particularly like (personally, I'm partial to Militec and Strike Hold), and some fancy electronic ear-muffs and nice shooting glasses.

As far as a case, unless you're carrying an expensive rifle or custom match-grade pistol or you'll be rock climbing with it, you don't need a Pelican case. A $10 plastic pistol case with egg-crate foam inside will suffice for just about everything you will be doing with your pistol. I know you said you already ordered snap-caps, but I have to recommend the A-Zoom aluminum caps. The plastic ones break too easily.

If I could give you one piece of advice it would be this: I know that it's fun to buy every accessory ever made for your gun, but honestly most of them are more gimmicky than useful. Start simple and cheap and buy things as you need them. Learn from other shooters what works and what doesn't and make friends that will let you try their gear, guns, and accessories so that you aren't buying blindly. Everyone is different and what works for one person may not work well for you.

Good luck and welcome to the club!

I got a Glock 19 after swearing to never buy a Glock. I wanted a physical safety, but after learning more about it, I figured the best safety is going to be my brain anyway.

I so shot the XDm9 and it was pretty nice, had a much larger handle than the 19 and I think more recoil. If you get the Glock, I'd definitely recommend the Slide on Grip, it's night and day in terms of comfort.

Also buy some bulk ammo online, I got 1000 rounds and still have at least 3 boxes left. It's cheap enough that you don't have to freak out about blowing $.25 a round like with a .40 or .45.

This is what I use now. I got a great deal on it when someone at Amazon fucked up and listed it for $32, but even at $65 it's a great deal. Tons of room to expand your collection and hold misc gear. IMO it's more space efficient than a typical eyepiece case (which often has two layers of foam that only get utilized if you stand your eyepieces straight up, or deliberately stack them in two layers).

A rifle case lets you lay all of your eyepieces and equipment out flat without wasting much room, or requiring you to dig into multiple layers of foam to get gear at the bottom.

If the idea of a 36" rifle case isn't your thing, then the next best option is the Plano Extra Large Seal Tight case. I have two of the previous versions of these made by Doskocil that have lasted me 25 years (including the foam). They are the best value of this style of case you can get. The Harbor Freight 4800 is cheaper, but the foam is really fragile and will start pulling apart over time.

I personally like to Co-witness with irons especially ones that are as minimal as the Scorpions are. They are great sights on their own and stay out of the way when using a red dot. That being said, I went from a Vortex Sparc II that I LOVED. For the price you might want to look into these as well!

Of the options you're talking about, I would definitely go with the Holosun. The Spitfire would be HUGE on a Scorpion and the Eotech is just a little too bulky for the platform. Both of those would negate having such a small gun imo. I'm going to swap over to an RMR because its small and light and gets the exact same job done without being in the way at all. I might even do a Vortex Viper since their warranty is great and its like 1/2 the price of even the cheapest RMR.

I've used Holosuns in the past and I've found them to be every bit as good as an Aimpoint for what I'm using it for. They're awesome and cheap as hell. Even these Primary Arms red dots are incredible for the price. If you don't care about push button operation and are fine with a little dial to adjust brightness, you can get the same thing for like $90!

first of all

Secondly, I assume you mean this one, the lee cast iron turret is a great press and it will work for most applications, If you need to do things not involving the turret (like decapping of w/e) you can just pull the index rod out(it just pops out when you take the dies out) and it won't spin anymore.

For tumbler I can say wet tumbling is best but not feasable for everyone and walnut tumbling works fine. The frankfort arsenal kit is good choice.

Lee dies and hand trimmers are cheap and work good too. I wouldn't worry about a trimmer for 40 or 9 but get one for sure for 223 and 30-06. cutter + Insert

there's some more basics like decent case lube and components themselves but it's a step in the right direction.

EDIT
***
additional recommended things would be a kinetic bullet puller, digital scale, and calipers.

There are a lot of components to firing off a good shot and as a new shooter, it can be tough to keep them all in mind: You need to have good trigger control, you need to focus your eyes on your front sight, you need to have a consistent and firm grip, your stance needs to be consistent and steady, you should time your shots to your respiratory pause to maximize accuracy. All of that is what you need to achieve, and as you get more experienced, you'll see how all of these components work together.

Anticipating recoil can be addressed from two angles, both of which involve focusing your mind on something other than anticipating when the trigger will break the shot: Actively thinking about maintaining front sight focus and actively thinking about trigger control. With practice, you'll be able to do both at the same time.

A good exercise that will address both of these is dry firing. The objective is to practice focusing on your front sight while manipulating the trigger in a manner which does not disturb sight alignment. You'll need an unloaded pistol and a featureless wall. Get a good thumbs forward grip on the pistol and aim at the wall. Make sure to pick an area without markings because you don't want anything to pull your focus away. Focus your eyes on the front sight. The rear sight should be blurry and you should be able to make out lots of detail on your front sight. Now place your finger on the trigger and slowly apply straight rearward force... slowly and steadily increase that pressure until the trigger breaks. Don't think about "pulling" the trigger, just think about increasing pressure. While you're thinking about pressure, keep your eyes focused on your front sight. If it moves, stop putting pressure on the trigger and start from the beginning. Do this until you get 10 good clean trigger breaks in a row.

The next time you go to the range, dry fire a few times before you run any live ammo through your pistol. If you find that you're still anticipating recoil, try the ball and dummy drill: You'll need some snap caps and some live ammo. Have your brother load you up a mag with a random distribution of snap caps and live ammo. Shoot at your target and treat it as a dry fire drill. If you manage to keep the pistol still even on snap caps, congratulations! If not, stop the drill, do 10 perfect dry fire reps, and run the ball and dummy again.

I know it's a lot to take in, but trust me that all of this will make sense and get easier the more you do it. It's not a bad idea to keep a personal training log and plan the drills you will run ahead of time. Just be honest with yourself and you will improve.

I would start with the Lyman 49th Edition and The ABCs of Reloading manuals. They give you a detailed break down of the reloading process and talk about different types of equipment. After you've read the manuals I recommend really thinking about if you are a good fit for reloading. While reloading can be a very rewarding hobby, it is a very serious hobby. You can end up severely hurt or even killed if you make a mistake. Being able to concentrate for long periods and be very exacting in the details are important. Not trying to scare you off, just reminding you that bullets are little explosions going off in your hands/near your face. Mistakes can turn a little explosion into a big one.

I also made a post about equipment here, but it isn't a replacement for a good manual.

Why are you interested in reloading? Looking to save money? Increase accuracy? Just because it looks interesting? Either way I recommend you read this post on the economics of reloading.

What are you looking to reload? Rifle? Pistol? Shotgun? What are your time, space, and budget constraints? Knowing this we can help you pick equipment to fit your needs. Overall the basics are:

Manual
Scale
Calipers
Press
Dies(Sizing/Decap, Expanding, Seating)
Shell Plate
and probably a chamfer/deburr tool

There are different levels of each of these so knowing what your requirements are will help determine which level you should be looking at.

I dont think I saw this recommended in here yet but sorry if it is. When I first started carrying I was too nervous about keeping one in the chamber. Thinking back now Im not sure why I was because I refused to buy a gun with a safety for carry purposes. Anyway, someone recommended me picking up a few Snap Caps to use for dry firing.

Well I decided to load my firearm with the snap cap and then do my normal activities around the home. Surprise surprise, no accidental discharges. I decided to take it a step further and did things I normally wouldnt be doing. Jumping jacks, rolling around on the ground, and anything else that could possibly make it go bang. Nothing. Worked my way up to practicing unholstering, dry firing, racking the slide and reholstering. Never had it unintentionally fire (snap cap.)

So that was it. It gave me the confidence that its never going to go bang unless you stick a finger in there and pull the trigger. Follow the safety rules and you will be good to go.

-------------------

As for comfort try out a different holster and or position. Also make sure you're using an actual gun belt. Using an actual gun belt made a world of difference for me. Also if you a skinny dude, give appendix carry a try. Check out the G-Code INCOG holster. You can check out the video from Travis Haley here: INCOG Appendix Holster Appendix carry works great for deeper concealment and is perfect for the sitting position. Also allows for extremely fast draw and reholstering. Good luck!

https://imgur.com/a/xksFb - Asking $190 shipped - Forgot to photo it but this case is included: https://www.amazon.com/MTM-Single-Handgun-6-Inch-Revolver/dp/B000H8ZWYE/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1506201840&sr=1-1&keywords=mtm+case - F* yeah even the CASE is USA MADE!!!

Hey guys, don't use my 10mm rig very much and looking to get it to a new home. If you want USA made but don't want to spend heady amounts here is a good bundle. I have used it only about 20 times, definitely under 30! The whole setup cost just over $400 new (rig was $140, nail was $160 but some places sell it for $195, cap was $90, travel case was $15). The nail is in great shape, always cleaned with a qtip immediately after using, obviously used though. No chips or other cosmetic imperfections anywhere. The cap very slightly different than the one in the screenshot but I paid the same amount for it back when they were called Capstars. The rig is killer and hits like a champion. I have 4 other rigs i usually use and this was only for special occasions when I had people over and never left the house! Usually I use an enail and rarely broke out the torch.

I'm hoping to sell it as a bundle, but i'd sell the rig itself for $100 shipped, or i'd sell the nail and cap as a combo for $150 shipped. ** $10 off if you dont need the travel case, and i will wrap it in tons of bubble wrap.

I know my camera phone pics suck but if you want better photos of anything let me know.

This is a boxing and review of this $35 weapons light I got off Amazon. It was highly rated there and I wanted to share an unboxing and initial impressions. Below is a copy/paste of the Imgur comments from top-down. I have no affiliation with the seller; here is the link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036S5W42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before I start, I'll give it 4 out of 5 stars because the on/off switch is too easily tripped and protrudes a fair bit. I understand this simple mechanism is probably to keep costs down which is appreciated. For a nightstand pistol-light, it will serve it's purpose well. I have no doubt as of the moment it wouldn't perform. For a concealed carry light, I'd recommend a hard cover to prevent the on switch from being engaged by mistake. For the price-point, it exceeds expectations. I probably will buy another for my Sig if this holds up well, which I expect it will. Rated at 500 lumens for 40 minutes of on time.

Per/u/jakesgunreviews, "Tell them to buy a TLR-1 when it goes on sale for $70.00."

Below is the transcript from the imgur descriptions.

S&W SD9 cleared and the HL-P10S model weapons light.

Box lid snapped out nicely. Flashlight comes in cutout with chinese CR123A Lithium battery, installation leaflet, Silica gel, and plea for reviews on Amazon. It feels very light. Must be aluminum.

Turned on and off by a simple drifting bar with finger tabs. Moves pretty freely with slight resistance. I can see this being a potential snag if drawing from concealed carry.

Fuck this is bright. I'm directly under my kitchen light on a cloudy day and this is triggering a migraine.

Retention lever gives significantly more resistance than the on switch. Pretty difficult to hold down with index finger.

Maybe an inch further than my barrel. Weight is hardly noticeable. The on switch is hit by using your right index finger to push it to the left; perfect for right handed shooters. I did accidentally bump it on while sitting it on the table which is concerning. It isn't 100% solid to my rail; it has a slight wobble but not enough to give the impression that it would fall off.


Dark room test. You could read a book just from standing behind it. Strobe feature is disorienting AF and activated by turning it off then back on quickly.

Will be needing another holster to concealed carry with it. This Telor Tactical neoprene holster is stretching out hard and the trigger well is partially exposed.

Another note about it with this and other soft hosters, it can be bumped on while carrying very easily IWB. It is bright enough to notice from inside jeans and would make an awkward situation to brandish to turn it back off. It comes off easily enough so if I have to carry it'll be without until I find a kydex holster holster to protect it.

That's the Mako one for like $30 on Amazon. I was testing it to see if an optic mount like that would be good for a reflex sight. It's not horrible (the concept of an optic that high off the bore axis), but i've realized that I want MOS milling.

I regret buying that cheap plastic thing. The light is great for the price (super bright and good strobe) and the reflex sight is ok once I got it dialed in. The Mako optic mount is crap. For starters, the part where the replacement trigger pin goes in extrudes into trigger guard area making it uncomfortable to shoot. The replacement front rail is too small and made my light fly off at the range (where it is normally snug on the Glock rail). Finally, it's a bear to get off.

I am getting alot of shit for the "mall ninja" accessories, but I'm glad I opted for cheaper to see what works well in my intended setup. Im glad I didn't spend $300 for an ALG (too high off bore axis), $300 for a brand-name light (this one is fucking bright), and glad the $20 reflex sight does pretty well. I can interchange it and my main red dot for my AR-15 in .22lr.

The hard case that came with my XD-9 doesn't meet TSA requirements because it can be pried open even with a lock on it. No problem, I just purchased a GunVault Nano for it, but was a little bit bummed out since the XD case was otherwise really nice (I like the foam cut-outs). I'm wondering if Springfield has improved on their cases with the XDM or XDS. Does your case look like it can be pried open even when a lock is in place?

> any reason why i'm shooting high and left with both guns?

At 10 and 15 yards, your group should be centered around your Point of Aim.

Your best solution for accuracy improvement (including putting your Point of Impact directly over your Point of Aim) is in-person instructor feedback. Ask if your local range has a regular class or instructor. If not, contact a local NRA instructor and ask for a one or two hour block on marksmanship fundamentals.

> I am mostly interested in training for self defense, but am also interested in doing local competetive matches like IDPA

You need a holster, and to be able to draw your pistol and handle your firearm without endangering yourself or others. Your accuracy is good enough to get started.

https://www.reddit.com/r/CompetitionShooting/comments/5qb4qf/what_is_something_you_wish_you_had_known_before#dcylzqq

-----

Where is the front sight at on the target, at the moment immediately before the front sight lifts in recoil?

As Adam describes it, "If you can't describe it, you probably didn't see it (or focus appropriately)." If you are having problems seeing it, mix some snap caps into your magazine (aka do the Ball and Dummy Drill).

-----

> Are there any drills out there to help bring my grouping back up and center?


Additional Drills:

• Focus on the front sight
  
  
• Press the trigger straight back to the rear (without moving the sights off target)
  
  
• Learn to Call Your Shots
  
  
• Make sure the sight doesn't move when the hammer/striker fires (you can practice this without ammo, then validate at the range with live-fire)
  

1. higher weight bullets will give a slight better performance for wind but not worth it for plinking ammo.
   
   
2. I dont know, i just use enough powder that cycles the system successfully.
   
   
3. YES I use a lee hand stimmer with a cutter and stud in a drill.
   
   
4. for 223 it do not think the price of brass is worth spending all the time to anneal.
   
   

It shouldn't be mandatory, but laws should allow teachers who already have firearm training to keep a secure weapon near their person, under their desk or something, if they want to. Something like this. In my high school I could name at least 5 of my teachers who were competent with firearms and, had the law allowed, would keep something like this in their class. You don't have to tall any kids it's there. It could save a kids life someday.

Obviously the Hellbreaker lower is the centerpiece of this build, but there a few other goodies on here too.

The main sight is an Armasight 4x Nightvision Scope.

The backup sight is a cheap but relatively solid Field Sport Red/Green Dot Holds zero really well after repeated firing, best bang for the buck right now in cheap, sturdy little red dots. It's mounted on a 45 degree angle rail section.

Streamlight SuperTac IR spotlight on the right side.

CMG 4.5lb flat trigger, smooth as ice.

KNS Precision locking trigger/hammer pins in FDE

Obviously a SigTac SB15 pistol brace.

AAC three prong flash hider/suppressor quick disconnect

BCM Gunfighter Charging handle

Weighs about 45lbs it seems like, but once both of my stamps get back I feel this will be an excellent stealth-mode hog rifle.

Start with this: http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417275692&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+reloading+manual

There are other reloading manuals, but I've found the Lyman to be the most newb friendly. It also remains a valuable resource as you gain experience.

1. The swat officers and first responders to a mass shooting would be able to easily identify the teachers with firearms from the shooter because the teachers would be with students. Also the teacher would stand down when the police arrived. Very rarely does a citizen with a firearm who is protecting others from a shooter get seen as the shooter and even more rarely are they caught in the crossfire. One recent example I can think of is Sutherland Springs.
   
   
2. This is my biggest problem but I live in Texas and we already have armed teachers at some campuses. My mom is one such teach. My wife will be when she feels comfortable (she has a concealed carry but doesn't carry to school.) Anyways, I mention this because there have been many many fights and incidents at the school and a gun has never been pulled on a student.
   
   
3. I don't really understand this question, There wouldn't be a reason to identify mental illness unless there was an active shooter and in that case, I think the kid would a gun would make it clear.
   
   
4. and 5. Go hand in hand. The simple answer is, if the teacher wishes to carry, then a finger print safe is required. These were provided for my mom's school to teachers who wished to carry by a private donar in partnership with the school
   
   Sidenote: I don't ever want any of these firearms to be used at a school, but I would rather have them there in the hands of teachers who would do anything for my daughter than nothing there stopping a shooter.

As others have said, definitely rent guns at the range. Black Wing has a very large selection both in the rental cabinet and on the sales floor. Vance is great too. I don't shop at LEPD because they're expensive and selection isn't that great, but I use their range sometimes.

For practice, start with a .22 target pistol, like the Browning Buckmark or Ruger Mark III. They're cheap to buy, cheap to shoot, very accurate and are excellent for warming up before moving on to the bigger calibers. Training on .22 will also help you focus on sight alignment while minimizing the chances of developing a flinch.

The other reason to buy a target pistol is that many ranges won't let you rent a gun if you're alone and don't have your own gun. That's to prevent people from renting guns and committing suicide on the range. If you want to try out guns for home defense and you can't bring a friend to the range, having a target pistol will get you into the shooting booth.

EDIT: Also get a laser trainer. For the price of a range trip or two, you can practice inside your home as much as you want. I find it really helps me focus on sight alignment and trigger control. Dry fire practice is one of the most important things you can do to improve your accuracy, and having a laser has made me a much better shot in a very short time.

I want a TLR light it's just the price right now. I have a small LED I keep with my 19 but I want a light on it. Just after the 19, sights, safe, rounds, CWP costs, etc I am about $1k into it.

I would like to find a cool kith that wasn't $200-$300 and decent as a temporary until I invest $200-300 into a TLR with light and laser.

Considering the Amazon reviews I might get this : Hilight 300 Lumen Pistol LED Strobe Flashlight with Weaver Quick Release https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036S5W42/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eAZfub0FMDS9S

if you are really set on a Kel-Tec P32 i would strongly encourge you to get a Ruger LCP, mine has been very reliable over years. i found one for $190 with free shipping the LCP uses the more powerful .380 ACP cartridge instead of .32 auto. real defensive loads exist for .380 such as Federal HST Micro. if you get the LCP i would recomend getting the Hogue rubber grip sleeve for it. the hogue grip makes the grip a bit wider and really helps spread out of the felt recoil. you could also look at the lcp II it is wider than the LCP one and has better sights.

you will want a good holster, one that covers the trigger and one the gun wont fall out when completely inverted. the "safety" here is the holster, by protecting the trigger you are preventing the gun from firing. in addition the guns have a long heavy trigger pull, these guns do not have "hair tiggers" that will go off with little more than a stiff breeze...

the sights on these guns are milled into the slide, they are not adjustable. getting shots on target is not a problem, if you know what you are doing. you have likely seen something like this before proper sight alignment Well with guns like these micro pocket pistols with the sights milled into the slide that "proper sight picture" goes out the window. your sight picture will look like anyone of these except for the top one. but thats is fine because the bullets will hit the center of the target. my LCP shoots low, i make the bottom of my front sight post level with the rear sights and i can hold 3-4 inch groups at 15 yards. my friends LCP shoots to the left, so i make the front sight bias the right side of the notch and then the gun shoots straight. the sights on these things work, they are just not intuitive. accuracy seems very ammo dependent with these tiny guns so try lots of brands.

https://www.amazon.com/Combination-POCKET-Holster-Keltec-CC3/dp/B008UGE6B0



I use this for my LCP. Works great, I can run with it, sit down comfortably.


I also suggest checking out a grip for it. Makes a huge difference how it feels in my hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Handall-Hybrid-Ruger-Sleeve/dp/B004Y8AYGE

We're using Sprint hotspots through Mobile Beacon which was through Tech Soup. We are actually a pretty rural library and we got 5 and they have been out since we got them at the beginning of the summer. A lot of patrons return them then automatically put another hold on them which is fine. We have dummy boxes for when they are actually on the shelf (I just used packaging tape around the boxes the hotspots came in and a label I made in Canva) and they're actually kept behind circ. I actually got small handgun cases for them so they can be beat up pretty bad and not hurt the hotspot (here). The barcode and everything is on the case. There are some instructions but most hotspots go to me or our tech person if there's an issue.

We haven't had many problems except for two things. For some reason they keep resetting themselves back to factory settings. I get one once a month. Easy fix though so not too bad. We also have an issue where they seem to freeze and they emit a signal but the LCD screen doesn't work and people can't connect. Fix is to let the battery run out then restart it. So not bad.

Circ policies are only our library (we're in a consortium), 1 week circ, $5/day late fee, $100 replacement, holds are allowed (though not when there are holds which are always), 18+.

Yes but it is such a very comfortable gun to carry around.

RECOMMEND:

Hogue grip

upgrade the recoil spring to 13 pounds

upgrade to sweat pea trigger

It will be like night and day for that gun. I promise.

If you aren't doing much volume the lee trimmer is the best budget minded one you can get.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Cutter-Lock-Stud/dp/B000NOQIOU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417303995&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+trimmer

8 bucks and then each caliber is 8 bucks or less

you don't need to trim 9mm

I've had to trim .357 because I had a bunch of different range pick up and they varied greatly, wouldn't seat on the cannelure right.

I reload for my ar15's, so buying the WFT for .223 was a lot easier than all the blisters the lee trimmer would cause.

They also have this thing, it would be a lot more comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Cutter-Ball-Grip/dp/B00162PVJQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417303995&sr=8-3&keywords=lee+trimmer

I use Cat Crap. REAL NAME, PLEASE DON"T AUTO DOWNVOTE! I couldn't think up a troll that good. Use on my glasses to prevent fogging in fall months. Effective for about a week if I don't wipe it off too strenuously.

Bought it originally when I was dirt poor and scratched a glasses lens pretty deep, pavement fall. Visible groove. Didn't remove it, but did make it a lot more acceptable. Also cleared up all the low level scratches I had.

Motorbike rider friend says they use it on helmets for sweaty fog and branch scratches.

Awesome idea! If you love that person that much more, just had to share a step up from this product without having to know tire pressure: http://www.amazon.com/FOBO-Bluetooth-Compatible-Monitoring-Motorcycles/dp/B00WBD00FO

Added this to my wheels and having pressure and a quick temperature readout in the morning before leaving my kitchen is pretty insanely nifty.



Other ideas for OP:

Freezeout Balaclava: http://www.amazon.com/FREEZE-OUT-Balaclava-Black/dp/B0096R08W8/

Microfiber Cloths (great for visor wipes, general cleaning, and wiping condensation off the bike in the morning): http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-36-Pack-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

Cat Crap (visor antifogger): http://www.amazon.com/EK-Ekcessories-10003P-AM-Anti-Fog-Cleaner/dp/B002BHWZFI/

Lock Laces: http://www.amazon.com/LOCK-LACES-Elastic-Tie-Shoelaces/dp/B00975EAJ6

Motorcycle Tire Inflator (fits under my seat easily): http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4/

That would probably be okay, but I don't feel comfortable with "probably". I would just spend an extra $10-15 and buy a dedicated pistol case that's separate from your range bag. Something like this or this. And yes, you would need to put a lock or two on it.

For cheapness you can get a Fieldsport Micro Dot from amazon for $20 and a UTG Riser Mount. I do not recommend using these sights without a riser.

If you want to spend some actual cash on a really good optic I recommend either a primary arms T1 and riser or a [Holosun] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NC1G0KI/ref=dp_cerb_2). Dutch uses a Primary Arms but IMO the holosun is probably the best budget real steel optic on the market.

I was using gun oil to prevent corrosion of my steel. Another poster here suggested that might be a bad idea. After a lot of searching and reading pretty much every thread on the topic on B&B and SRP (there are several in the archives), I decided NOT to oil my razor at all, as the general consensus is that oils can do more harm than good. For those who do choose to oil their blades, mineral oil or non-corrosive gun oils are the most popular choices.

Now, instead of oiling, I wipe it down with a TUF-cloth and store my razors inside a silicone gun sleeve in a drawer with a small rechargeable silica dehumidifying canister. Probably overkill protection, but it's easier than oiling and I feel much better protected with a total long term investment of $22.

One of the best ways to feel more comfortable with your carry piece is to train and to wear it.

Wear it around at home. You'll get used to the feeling and eventually you won't notice it - you'll just notice it when it's not there.

Also train. Train train train. Shoot at the range at least once a month. Get a training round (they have other calibers) and train at home. You can use the training round to work on your draw from conceal, trigger control, and all around accuracy. You'll feel a lot more comfortable with your carry piece when you know you can quickly draw your sidearm without fumbling for it.

As for carry locations, I'm a guy - and other people have already spoken on that topic. So I'd listen to them, not me on that.

Darksim tweeted this a few weeks ago so I picked up one for $8 at the time. I really like it, it rolls up really nice.
US PeaceKeeper Small Punch Roll for Armorer's Tools US PeaceKeeper Products http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044YGCA0/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_cNTQwb094CJ6B via @amazon

Here are some of my Petersons in it.
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CZrJLC9VAAAQFIR.jpg:large

There's a laser insert i use that's pretty awesome and has no rim for the extractor to catch. Great for drawing and shooting and it puts a quick red flash on what you hit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NKY23E

My reloading setup was based on budget. I spent about $147 total for my Lee Single Stage Press + extras. The only complaint I have is I wish the press was a little more accurate for speedier results.

Id like if anyone commented on high speed pressing components with high accuracy results. It would be nice to have but really just curious whats out there and what works.

Edit: incase you were curious ive listed my parts below

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SF4X5I/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Deluxe-3-Die-Rifle/dp/B00162TEOE

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOQIOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOSGOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014136PA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162UGQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get a lee bench kit for like $120-140ish and it has just about everything you need to get started. Seen em on midway for $130. Amazon has one for $90 so if you have prime free 2 day shipping i think they even do free prime for college students too https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Anniversary-Challenger-Kit/dp/B00162RM3E

Already got the lexan yesterday, and went ahead and cut out a piece the shape of my RDS lens. It fits very snugly.

Since you know what you're talking about, I have a few questions on the lexan covering. I had to shave the lexan down by hand with a metal file, so there are spots that are kind of lumpy and don't touch the sides of the frame like they should, but it still fits pretty tight in there. Should I be worried about it falling out? Also, should I superglue the sides of it to the frame?

For the next question, you'll have to see my RDS to understand. Here's the link.

As you can see, the right below the lens is a little metal base. Should I cut out a shape of the entire top part of the sight alongside a square base below it, and then glue the lower lexan base to the metal RDS base? The lexan wouldn't be touching the lens, so would this keep it even more protected? Also, if the lexan gets cracked, it seems this way would be much easier to remove and replace the lexan.

I think the safes with buttons right now are much more reliable than biometric safes. This safe pictured is a Gunvault Speedvault SVB500, which is known to sometimes have problems at times. However, there is a manual button version, the standard SV500 which is the vault I have next to my bed every day and is much cheaper.

It's not the most secure, but if you want to keep a bedside gun out of reach of kids or friends who don't know how to properly handle firearms, it works great.

My first recommendation is to get contacts and only wear them on days when you cycle or do other sports that are eyewear restrictive.

Before getting contacts, this was a HUGE issue for me, luckily some products help immensely. I used to have a pair of glasses with perscription inserts which I treated with a product called Cat Crap. It is a wax based treatment for your glasses that makes them hydrophobic.

Today, I use contacts and I have a rain pair of sunglasses treated with the stuff above. Water rolls off them kind of like a car windshield treated with RainX.

As far as contacts go, I concur with u/w0ss4g3 try out multiple brands of contacts. I settled on biofinity, the ones you CAN wear for a month but I take them out every day and clean them with hydrogen peroxide solution. I had to try 5 different brands before I found a lens that worked with my eye shape and use.

It's very common for new shooters to hit low-left. There is a wonderful drill you can do to detect and solve this problem very easily.

Get a pack of these:

http://www.amazon.com/A-ZOOM-15116-Hunting-And-Shooting-Equipment/dp/B0002IKANW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457829953&sr=8-1&keywords=9mm+snap+cap

Have a friend load a few at random in a magazine filled with live rounds. They will feed normally and you won't know it's there until you press the trigger and hear a click instead of a bang.

Chances are, when that happens, you'll see the gun dip slightly down and to the left. Now you know what's wrong and you know how to fix it.

With the snap cap still in place, dry fire a few times, being careful not to let the sights move at all. Once you think you've got it, cycle the action to eject the snap cap, and try again. While you are being careful you'll be striking closer to the center of the target. If you remain careful, the next snap cap will reward you by showing that your sights haven't moved.

It's not uncommon for skilled shooters to balance a nickel across the front sight, and dry fire the gun without the nickel falling off. When you can do that consistently you'll be shooting very well.

I typically get anti glare coatings on my lenses but I've never heard of anti fog for regular glasses. I'm also in the camp that pretty much always wears contacts to the gym and regret it any time I don't.

If you want to keep the glasses, you could look into applying your own anti fog coating. A runner friend uses some stuff called "cat crap" that he said works pretty well except in super cold temps. No, I'm not joking on the name of the stuff - Amazon link for cat crap.

Tuf Cloth is a great way to clean and protect your higher end knives from corrosion at the same time.

I think you've found what you're looking for then! These are the ones I buy:

http://www.amazon.com/GunVault-NV200-NanoVault-Style-Pistols/dp/B00384755S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1333830268&sr=8-2

Perfect for just what you describe. Pretty similar to the one in the link you posted as well.

It's free shipping on $100 worth of items before discount. So it's only $50 to get free shipping. Here is the same case on Amazon for $72 shipped.

For what it's worth, my Lee 50th Anniversary kit has been fantastic for me. I will admit that I almost instantly swapped out the included measure for the Pro Auto Disk and the beam scale for an electronic. I also invested in a universal decapper.

How are you planning on case cleaning? Ultrasonic, vibratory, wet tumbling (like the cool kids do)...?

One thing you can do that helps a lot:

• Buy some snap caps
  
• Have a buddy load them randomly through your mag(s)
  
• Take nice, controlled shots at a paper target no more than 5 yards away
  
• When the snapcap shots come up, you will be surprised. Pay attention to what the gun/sights do when you are expecting a band, and don't have one
  
  This is the best way I've ever found with new shooters or new guns to figure out what is happening. If ou are flinching, jerking the trigger, etc.
  
  EDIT: Just realized that lexor said the same thing.

You can use this ($9 on amazon) and add whatever lock you want that'll fit. I just got one yesterday. The plastic seems pretty good for how cheap it was.

Here is another alternative to your trimming station base for drill length gauge so these two two items work together and allow you to trim brass using your drill. I use it for 223 and once you get the hang of it you can knock out cases pretty quick. The only hard part is that the length is not adjustable, so you’re stuck with what ever Lee thinks is the correct trim to length. Still one of my best cheap, time saving purchases though

Me and my dad started with this Lee kit, but ended up replacing the stock scale for a digital one. And of course whatever dies you need. We do pistol mainly, but will eventually do .30-06 and .223 rounds.

You'll also want to get a good set of calipers, and a tumbler to clean brass.

The kit would not have a tumbler, it would have a press (a thing w/ a lever that raises the shell up and down against the dies, is bolted to a table/workbench). The dies include a deprimer usually. You need a sturdy bench/table that you can mount a press on btw.
You could probably buy $400 of the expensive/good stuff, and let him round out the cheaper stuff.

Here’s a list of important stuff:
This press is great: Lee Precision Classic Turret Press (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LThgAbTFN5PNG

The 4 hole thing is interchangeable. So u can swap out different calibers quickly w/our adjusting the dies again.


Lyman Gen6 Digital Powder Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6CIUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9WhgAbJDKEQ14

I learned a digital powder scale is what you want, this thing increases productivity a lot.

Could recommend a few more items

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB5OU0Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Love how it works. Great for reloading and not smacking friends with hot brass. Makes you oper8 harder.

My only concern with that Lyman press is the amount of room (or lack thereof). When loading rifle cartridges it seems like it might get a little tight and hard to work with. I've also heard that Lee has 2 different models of turret press and one of them is garbage. But I've heard this one is actually pretty decent. https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541975573&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lee+turret+press&dpPl=1&dpID=41QzMUGtesL&ref=plSrch

It has the auto indexing feature and is less than $100 and plenty of room to work with...it's pretty tempting. Or it it really that bad?

Im trying to keep everything below $500 to start with. Can you recommend some good dyes for 223/308?

You'll get better.

I've found that on my striker-fired pistol (a Glock), I'm actually much more accurate and much less likely to flinch if I take quicker, more decisive trigger pulls. Slowly trying to squeeze off aimed shots I would be all over the place, but quicker follow-up shots I'd be much more accurate. Think I came to realize that being too slow with trigger pull I'd feel it budge and creep to right where it was about to break, and that'd telegraph "imminent shot" to my brain and I'd flinch. Taking a slightly quicker and more decisive pull made for a crisper, cleaner break and less movement.

I like the idea of randomly throwing in some snap caps in my magazines. Like take a few mags, load them and randomly throw a snap cap or two in each, and mix them up so you won't know if your next shot will be live or not. Should help in being able to tell what you're doing when the gun goes 'click' and you see where your front sight is pointed.

As /u/IMR800X stated, I'd get away from the spring loaded dies and get a single stage bench mounted press. Buy once, cry once. Any decent single stage press will last you decades of use. So with that being said I'd recommend either the Lee 50th anniversary or Hornady Single Stage kits. Both come with a lot of nice extras that you have on your wish list. The Lee press is about $100 cheaper and the press is solid and reliable, but I like the Hornady bushing system better for quick die changes. The Hornady kit does come with the reloading manual, a digital scale, and a bit of case lube which is a nice upgrade over the Lee. Either way you will still need to buy calipers, a bullet puller, and a set of dies.

They're basically inert dummy rounds (usually plastic or lightweight metal with some polymer where the primer normally sits to absorb the impact of the firing pin). They have them for all the popular calibers. They're great for dry-fire practice too :)

Here are the ones I use in my 9mm: AMAZON LINK

Looks like a Plano 36".

Good case. Foam is okay--turns out better if you use a hot wire cutter and Plastidip afterwards.

Has basic integral locks, but slots for two external ones. I put two of these, keyed alike.

Overall a good case.

I'm still new to shooting at paper targets, I will start shooting in groups of 5 from now on. I've looked into reloading but there's so much info out there that I'm not even sure where to start.

I was looking at the Lee 50yr Anniversary Kit on Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-50th-Anniversary-Reloading/dp/B00162RM3E and picking a set of .308 dies. I guess after that my next step would be to grab some powders, bullets, tumblers. I know the initial investment will pay itself off pretty quick, but do you have a reloading for dummies you can recommend?

Lyman 49th edition is great

Nosler 7 is good too

I prefer the Lyman one; it has more data for each cartridge. The nosler manual doesn't have a lot of pistol cartridges listed. Lyman also has data for cast bullets for virtually every cartridge.

I use Tuf-Cloth. Its a lint-free cloth soaked in oil/silicone that is non-greasy and doesn't attract dirt. It also prevents rust. I use it on my firearms and knives. The stuff work wonders. At only $8, this product is a great deal. I have had the same cloth for about a year and it's still good.

EDIT: grammar

I think a Tuf-Cloth may help. Knife and gun guys use it to protect their carbon steels. Its also used by museums to protect items that are prone to rust. The product in the cloth creates an invisible barrier from the elements. http://www.amazon.com/TUF-CLOTH-12-Resealable-Pouch/dp/B000E892Z2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1YH1ZRQYXJWUH&coliid=I4CVG2QL61RXU

Edit: Oh and congrats!!!!!!

I use squash goggles - with prescription lenses. I also use a product called "cat crap" to avoid them streaming up. It's a very catchy marketable product name don't you think!

Seems to work OK for me - and it's perfectly safe.

You can find it on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BHWZFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474003974&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=cat+crap+anti-fog&dpPl=1&dpID=41QJrvPBofL&ref=plSrch

I'm currently using a GunVault NanoVault 200
http://www.amazon.com/GunVault-NV200-NanoVault-Lock-Black/dp/B00384755S/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457725789&sr=1-1&keywords=gunvault+nanovault

I'm eventually going to get something that bolts down to the frame but I got this on sale ($15 with free 2 day shipping) and with the cable lock down method, I can move it between my SUV and my wife's car at need. It easily fits under the seat of either vehicle. Sure it won't stop a thief with bolt cutters, or time and a way to break the lock, but it will deter the quick more common "smash the window and grab whatever's loose" type of thief.

Oh and one thing about this box. At first it kept sliding far back under the seat or would slide forward and bump my feet, if I decelerated too suddenly and strongly. So I took some velcro strips (the hook side) and put them on the bottom of the box. It gives enough friction that the box doesn't slide on it's own and little enough friction that I can grab the steel cable and pull it out from under the car seat at need if I can't reach the box itself.

If you can't wear fingerless gloves, the next best thing are something like these. Light and breathable and not bulky so you have some dexterity.

I've never found a pair of glasses that won't fog up eventually, so just get some anti-fog wipes or some Cat Crap.

Works great. Stays put, catches shells, easy on and off. This model. Inexpensive too.

Screen protectors are highly recommended. I have micro scratches on my screen after extended use because I didn't use one.

The actual antennae or a cheap one from eBay or Amazon is your best bet.

For a case, I suggest this : MTM Single Handgun Case for up to 6-Inch Revolver (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H8ZWYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q4uJxbZQCPPMS

Sorry to break it to you, but there is a lot more competition in the sup $200 micro red dot market.

• TRS-25
  
  
• Hi Lux
  
• Holosun
  
• Primary Arms - Advances
  
• Primary Arms
  
• Vortex SPARC II
  
  They are all more or less excellent. I prefer the Vortex because it has an unbeatable warranty.
  
  

I have the Hogue grip on my P17. It's a tight fit to get it on but once you manage to do it, it greatly improves grip and feel.

$11 at amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014VRS22

I bought it here. I'm really happy with it, although it is pretty hard to get on a full length gen 4 grip.

Yes, but this one. They don't offer much security beyond what a locked glovebox does, but they're better than nothing. I have a tether for mine as well.

I think this might be the same as the one another Redditor mentioned, but I have this one, and it fits/works great.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00E221A88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KDSGDbS50F6ZX

I had the same mindset as OP until recently. I finally got down to a smaller frame Kahr PM40. Carried it for a couple years but it was to large for me to really pocket carry.

I recently traded my wife's Taurus .38 for the Ruger LCP and I was very disappointed. It felt cheap and I couldn't shoot it to save my life. I've always really loved Ruger; so I did some research and decided to make some minor adjustments.

Added a Hogue Sleeve, a Clip extension and a Laser Max. A little over a $100 and it completely transformed the gun for me. I highly recommend for those times that a larger frame firearm isn't ideal.

It's fine to dryfire nearly every firearm without damage. The real exception is older rimfires.

If you want snap caps you can hit up your local sporting goods stores (some wal-marts included) or even Amazon. I'd suggest this style since the primer isn't just a solid material packed into the pocket, it's a material backed by a spring. That means that it won't wear as quickly as ones that are just polymer since it has some give.

You can also use them for clearing drills at the range. Have a friend randomly load them into your magazine with real ammunition. When you run into one that doesn't fire clear it and move on.

The fingerprint scanner on a $700 iphone is meh and you want to trust that technology on a $180 quick access safe containing the tool that can save your life?

yeah even with both of those you are just putting all of your money in a handy container, one even has a handle to nick it and run away while holding. If the idea is to keep the notes out of sight, it would work.

I was thinking something more like this. Lets you loop the cable around the seat frame so it would be a bit harder to get away.

Though the prices for it on UK amazon are pretty crazy high.

Check out http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-presses/lee-turret-press/lee-classic-cast-turret-press
or
https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-classic-turret-press-90064.html

If you have Amazon Prime this will be the cheapest new press
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495526802&sr=8-2&keywords=lee+classic+turret+press

I highly suggest that if you go with the Lee, get the Classic Cast Turret, not their "Lee Precision Turret". The classic cast is built far superior. I own one of every type presses Lee makes, except the 50 BMG. I had the 50 BMG, but chose to go to the Hornady, because it had more leverage for resizing and better Die's for making competition loads.

I use my Lee presses for the other 25 different calibers I reload and compete with.

Don't use plastic ones, you don't want to shoot 200 rounds, get a plastic snap cap in there and then have it melt.

A-Zoom snap caps are pretty good

Training that out should be your first priority. Here's a good drill that can at least help you be aware of how much you're doing it: get some snap caps and bring them to the range. Have a friend randomly load a few mixed with live ammo in your magazine without your knowledge. Then, proceed to shoot as normal. You won't know whether you're getting live ammo or dummies and you'll notice your flinch when you expect a live round and get a dummy.

A lot of people are complaining about their shooting glasses fogging up. If that's the case, I can wholeheartedly recommend this product: Cat Crap anti-fog and lens polisher. This stuff works great. I've used it for scuba diving masks, paintball and airsoft masks and my Oakley half-jackets in Iraq. I have yet to find a better product.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00384755S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_rxiryb31SPC9D

Here is a link to the item on Amazon . Nice cable that wraps around seat anchor. You may have to get creative.

Great price, but after having one of these, better off getting the upgrade. https://smile.amazon.com/Caldwell-Pic-Rail-Brass-Catcher/dp/B00EB5OU0Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511996616&sr=8-1&keywords=caldwell+brass+catcher

I own one of these. With the cable, you can secure it under one of the front seats.
I also like it for air travel, because the cable can secure to the suit case's frame (where the handle is internally), which makes it a lot harder for the TSA to "misplace" it.

US PeaceKeeper P21111 Small Punch Roll for Armorer's Tools

It is perfect for my needs and you really can't beat the price.

I use this on my CM it's $26 right now with free shipping. Its metal, red and green, four different modes, five brightness levels, and in six months I have yet to change the battery. Here It is in black for $22.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E221A88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's a little big but great to throw in the camper and go http://i.imgur.com/x7AlNDX.jpg

Awesome gun except that it is 40 lol. I found a hogue grip on Amazon and one of the reviews says it works with the p07
https://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Rubber-Grip-Handall-Sleeve/dp/B0014VRS22/ref=cm_rdp_product_img

Definitely, on my phone but when I get home I will.

edit - Here are the links to what I bought. I picked the kit and the lower up while it was on sale, so I got it for cheaper.

• kit (was $380)
  
• Lower (was $49)
  
• Rear Sight (was $10ish)
  
• Optic (was $20ish)
  
  The optic is alright, but doesn't do anything beyond what the iron sight is doing for me right now.
  
  So far I've put ~ 150 rounds through it. Tight groupings, and I'm very pleased.

This is a pretty good sight. Lots of different pictures and the reticle brightness is nicely variable.

However, holy hell don't buy it from Evike. This same optic is rebranded a hundred times over- if it looks identical, it probably is. There's probably like one factory in China making these things, and different companies stamp their name on it. Here it is on Amazon for $22

Edit: I took another look at the sight that /u/Adventurepoop linked to, and I was wrong- that one does appear to be different. It offers a different array of sight pictures, and has fewer options for sight brightness. Otherwise I reckon it's the same thing. Up to you if the extra money is worth it for the different reticles. I wouldn't pay more than $23 though- mine got shot out the first time I played with it. I'd hate to have lost twice the money.

I started out with a single stage press about a month ago and my first round was 300 blackout. As a matter of fact, that's the only thing I'm reloading right now. I've made 220 rounds so far.

I did it on an RCBS single stage, but it's 45 years old and was given to me by my Dad. If I had to start from scratch as a beginner, I'd get this kit and be happy

I would definitely recommend wiping the blades down with oil or some other rust resistant product such as a TufCloth. Probably couldn't hurt to throw a desiccant of some sort into the cabinet/drawer/wherever you store your gear to soak up the moisture out of the air.

A reloading manual. Buy one. Read it cover to cover at least twice. Then buy another different manual. Read it twice. Reference both for loading data.

Edit: This is the manual I mainly use. http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E

I have tons of other sources for data like magazines and what not, but the manual is always the starting point, especially for safety.

You might want to try a different antifog treatment. I've heard a lot of good things about Cat Crap. I think your best course of action is to fight the fog rather than unnecessarily downgrading in eye protection.

I would recommend getting this "small punch tool roll" from Amazon.

US PeaceKeeper P21111 Small Punch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044YGCA0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Not positive if it's the same model but it's 89.99 free shipping with prime on Amazon for the black version. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NC1G0KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gfeaCb01E6HY4 sorry for the long link, on mobile and can't remember how to format.

edit

Older model so so with as you will.

I just bought one too! I was researching upkeep and it seems like the three big things are:

• Learning how to sharpen on a cheap blade (I bought an Opinel 8 for this)
  
• Protection from rust
  
• Lubrication for folders
  
  With that said, has anyone ever used TUF CLOTH for cleaning and blade maintenance? I bought a fixed blade ESEE and that is what they recommend so I figured I could use it on all blades correct?

There's ways around all alarm systems and doors. If they want in they'll get in. And there's tons of safes that are mounted under desks, on head boards, or easy and quick to grab places that you can open very quickly with finger print activation or a quick access code.

Gunvault SpeedVault SVB500 gun safe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006OGOHD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UGHGzbEGK3PGJ

GunVault SV500 - SpeedVault Handgun Safe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006OGNLKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NHHGzbHA4NCMS

Good question.... they're definitely [available] (https://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-Pic-Rail-Brass-Catcher/dp/B00EB5OU0Q)

pretty sure it's one of these

How about a pistol case? Seriously.

https://www.amazon.com/MTM-Single-Handgun-6-Inch-Revolver/dp/B000H8ZWYE/ref=pd_sim_200_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000H8ZWYE&pd_rd_r=VTJYBFD1SABBQ3ES29AH&pd_rd_w=HU7OO&pd_rd_wg=lpiEQ&psc=1&refRID=VTJYBFD1SABBQ3ES29AH

Edit // Changed link // I kind of like that one. It has two holes in the case for locks. A 3DS, some games, and a charger is pricey and worthy of a lock. The games would be stored under the foam. It can be lifted out. Or you can slice little slots in the foam with a razor blade and insert the carts.

Man that's a good idea. I might get that for my own because I have a grip, too.

Maybe a pistol case? They can be pretty cheap for a basic one, the spendier ones have "pluck out" foam if you wanted each bottle to have it's own home. But I think a basic one would be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H8ZWYE/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b3WJo5L_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=PB6Y86TQ2X4PVJDM089Q&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=16744dc2-9341-59c9-bd50-2aadd9790f24&pf_rd_i=3225962011

It's only $155.95 on Amazon, but Gunvault has it for $444.99. That's cheap it if can get such a huge discount on Amazon. Cheap materials with a circuit board made in China.

https://www.amazon.com/Gunvault-SVB500-Speedvault-Biometric-Black/dp/B006OGOHD0

I use this for most if that. If you’re looking for more of a pouch, Maxpedition was what I always used prior to that. Rytans cordura pouch is excellent, too!!

https://www.amazon.com/US-PeaceKeeper-P21111-Small-Armorers/dp/B0044YGCA0

What I do is get a Tuf-Cloth and wipe down the blade before you put it away

Some rust prevention tests can be found here and here so you can see what works best.

This is the one I purchased a month ago. Same idea as the one in your link. Very easy to take on and off, and no wiggle. Very bright too. I had my girlfriend point the light at me across our house and it was near blinding at night.

Aimkon HiLight P10S 400 Lumen Pistol LED Strobe Flashlight with Weaver Quick Release, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036S5W42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_eOs5wbRJ0YNF1

Dude this one is great! Don't bother shelling out $300 on a Pelican case or anything fancy. I got this one on Amazon for $60. I'll fetch a link if you're interested...

Plano All-Weather Tactical Gun Case 36in

[Laser Training Cartridge] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NKY23E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) has been worth every penny. It seems to use batteries pretty slowly too. Makes dry-fire practice a lot more fun/realistic.

I don't use one, but from what I have seen, these two are the most popular grips people use:-

1. Talon Grip http://talongungrips.com/grips/glock/
   
2. Hogue Grip http://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Rubber-Grip-Handall-Sleeve/dp/B0014VRS22
   
   

I made this so I could save some dough and submit for another stamp. Maybe it'll save you a few bucks too or give you some ideas.

Download the STL files here without clicking on my stupid video.

Get the Caldwell Brass Catcher here, it's the best I've found.

I'm a striker guy but for dry fire, I can totally see the benefit of having a double action trigger. I like to use one of those laserlight trainer cartridges when I practice my dry-fire (almost every night). And it would be really nice if I could just pull the trigger again to get another shot to go off, rather than having to re-rack the slide to get the next "shot" off.

But other than that and the extremely low likely event of a soft-primer strike, then I prefer the consistency of strikers.

The one on my daughters (red/left) is what I'd call an entry-level sight. It is a FieldSport red/green reflex. The one on her buddy's (blue/right) is a C-MORE Systems Railway (not sure which one, exactly). It is definitely not entry-level :-)

Pick one. It'll be your favorite for the rest of your life.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/9993957887/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000WCPGSW/ref=dp_olp_used_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=used

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1498367409&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=lyman+49th+reloading+handbook

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-50th-Reloading-Handbook-Hardcover/dp/B01H2JD6CK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1498367547&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman%2B50th%2Breloading%2Bhandbook&th=1

If you want the classic turret press, its $30 cheaper here and free shipping.

http://www.amazon.ca/Lee-Precision-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426120812&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+classic

or this will show you their other options.

http://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=lee+press&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Alee+press

Here is a reflex sight from Amazon. I have one of their red dots on my 15-22/AR15. Its a pretty decent little red dot for less than $50 for the red dot and rise. They have a bunch of different options.

https://www.amazon.com/Field-Sport-Green-Reflex-Reticles/dp/B00457SRBI

EDIT: this site has a few other options including RMR type red dots. https://monstrumtactical.com/collections/red-dot-sights

I dont have kids so I dont worry about it, but maybe look into a small gun safe/case.

My friend has this one for his handgun in his truck, works well and you can cut foam to fit what you have.

http://www.amazon.com/GunVault-NV200-NanoVault-Style-Pistols/dp/B00384755S/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1373395885&sr=1-5&keywords=gun+safe

The advantage of using a gun case would be most either have a lock or can be locked where as most fishing tackle boxes do not.

Yes it is, just not a rail like on a rifle, it's a weaver rail: https://www.amazon.com/Aimkon-HiLight-P10S-Flashlight-Release/dp/B0036S5W42/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468617300&sr=8-2&keywords=pistol+light This light would fit it, look for something similar

To add to this, you can buy dummy rounds (typically red or a different color than brass). You can use these to safely practice loading, cocking, reloading, etc... They are also good for dry fire exercises.

http://www.amazon.com/-Zoom-Luger-Precision-Snap-Caps/dp/B0002IKANW/ is an example.

I got this roll to hold my picks. It’s cheap and works well so far; I love it. US PeaceKeeper P21111 Small Punch Roll for Armorer's Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044YGCA0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_72xaCbSFDPCC6

If money were not a factor, I think Peterson, Sparrows, and Spooxe would be on my list. I can personally vouch for sparrows cases,

Agreed with the other posts here. I recommend getting a grip sleeve with it.

Yep, the Caldwell one works very well.

Have you tried adding one of the Hogue grips to the LCP?

http://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Handall-Hybrid-Ruger-Sleeve/dp/B004Y8AYGE

It's supposed to be a significant improvement to how it feels in your hand. I haven't tried one yet, but it's on my list.

Where in the East Bay? We're damn near neighbors.

​

The P226 is an excellent pistol, one of my personal favorites. However, the 9mm round is a bit on the hot side so you should use specialty rounds, e.g. hallow point, with less penetration. My home defense pistol is an H&K shooting .45 ACP.

​

I suggest you also look into a quick open lock box. Something that you can open quickly but is still secure. I have one similar to this, https://smile.amazon.com/Gunvault-SVB500-Speedvault-Biometric-Black/dp/B006OGOHD0/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=biometric+gun+safe&qid=1559011515&s=gateway&sr=8-10, but you have to remember to change the battery every few months.

​

I have no opinion of police surplus guns as I've never even looked at them.

I say invest in these:

https://www.amazon.com/Laserlyte-Laser-Trainer-9-mm-Cartridge/dp/B004NKY23E

They helped my shooting more than anything. They even have targets that make it like a game. When I started, live ammo was actually reinforcing some bad habits. I began anticipating and jerking the trigger. I would leave the range more frustrated than when I started, and it felt like a waste of money. Laserlyte cartridges helped me work on the fundamentals like drawing, presenting, sight alignment, and trigger pull. The best part was I could practice every day in the house. They made me a better shooter in days.

This is what I use, and I wear glasses. They're kinda small glasses, and they're not my usual glasses that I use on a regular basis.

I recommend getting Cat Crap to prevent fogging, and removing the foam on the top of the goggles.

That 10/22 isn't the base model, which variant is that? it looks sweet. My red dot was a Cheapy off Amazon

Not a fan of those latches or the lack of waterproofing. I have this and it's fricken SWEET. Just make sure to get some dessicant.





http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E221A88/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1458883359&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gun+case&dpPl=1&dpID=51Mymihdh9L&ref=plSrch

you'll need a powder measure, scale, dies, shell holder, some callipers, a bullet puller, and consumables of course. Not necessary but reloading manuals and the The ABCs of reloading Personally I'd get the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit that comes with most everything you need, and upgrade as you see fit.

I fucking love my $150 45 hi point. You can easily change it to accept 1911 mags and even 45 drum mags

The stock grips are bad though. These $10 overlays make a huge difference.


Also a $7 rubber grip comes in handy.


The stock magazine has never given me a problem. Not one jam/malfunction with it.

I did buy a 14 rnd promag that was giving me problems until I bent the feeding lips on the magazine, and also noticed the promags will go in the gun too high, that's why they have that obnoxious huge pieces of plastic on them to keep it from going higher. They slide right off though so i didn't notice until i put it back on what the problem was.

You can go with the Lee Case Trimmer and save about $75. Just chuck it in your drill and it makes quick work of the brass. You have to buy the holder for each caliber, which run around $6 each. If you're only doing one or two rifle calibers, they are much cheaper.

did you even google my friend

https://www.amazon.com/Hilight-Pistol-Strobe-Flashlight-Release/dp/B0036S5W42/

https://www.reddit.com/r/airsoft/comments/2xpwti/any_good_quality_tlr1_clones/

• many more just use google
  

Pelican makes a nice case. I keep mine locked, and the case itself is chained to an eyebolt in a discrete place.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E221A88?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

And you can get a chamber lock:
http://www.amazon.com/GunVault-GUNVAULT-MAGVAULT-Breech-Orange/dp/B004YY6Z4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449716680&sr=8-1&keywords=magazine+lock

I know these are for Rifles but may work if you have a Picitinny rail on the top https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caldwell-Outdoor-Catcher-available-Bronze/dp/B00EB5OU0Q/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=brass+catcher&qid=1572882627&sr=8-5 or maybe this in its place https://www.amazon.co.uk/UTG-Deluxe-Mesh-Shell-Catcher/dp/B001VIJLAU/ref=pd_sbs_200_t_0/261-1434400-6746315?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001VIJLAU&pd_rd_r=1a33e39f-5d04-4853-a494-38b4fdbaa141&pd_rd_w=ChzHN&pd_rd_wg=1Qaub&pf_rd_p=e44592b5-e56d-44c2-a4f9-dbdc09b29395&pf_rd_r=CE6Y1JC18DG3JKMKCAXX&psc=1&refRID=CE6Y1JC18DG3JKMKCAXX

I'd recommend the lee turret, because i'm a lee fanboy! I think i have the anniversary kit. 4 holes on mine.

Edit: mine may not be sold anymore? Grab a https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BWTF1E/ref=pd_aw_sbs_200_of_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ETFHFSA25YJR2RJ375NM.

Plano 36" cases like this one are very nice and sturdy. They have gone down to $40s IIRC around the black friday time period.

You can buy snap caps to practice with as well: https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Luger-Precision-Snap-Pack/dp/B0002IKANW

This way you can safely practice racking the gun and clearing malfunctions.


Oh, and don't forget the 4 universal rules of gun safety!

1. The gun is always loaded.
   
   
2. Always keep gun pointed in a safe direction.
   
   
3. Keep finger off trigger until ready to fire.
   
   
4. Know your target and what's behind it.

I honestly don't really use my other picks and wrenches, but I keep them in this case that I bought from Amazon for $4.60 about a year ago (it's gone up a bit since then; used to be an “add-on item”). Basically I just put them all in there when I got that case and haven't opened it since, so I can't really comment on its usability or durability.

I saw them earlier when I was looking for one as well, but I forget the website. The one I saw was pick & pluck foam and listed for $67 and some change. Figure with tax and shipping it'd be about $75.

edit: Saw this just now. Good deal...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E221A88/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

What makes this more worth than something like this?

Lee Precision Anniversary Challenger Kit II https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162RM3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1jqjzb836WTCP

To a rookie it all seems the same.

This one and this one both have zippered pouches to keep your tensioners secure. I like the first one because the whole things zips closed.

A bunch of people around here, including me, have this one. I would much rather have one of the first two.

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100 rounds isn't very much. Have you looked into reloading?

I suck with my pistols and I get that shooting is not budget friendly, but 100 rounds/mo per gun is not very much at all. That would be a pretty light range day for me, and I try to go at least 3x a month. I'm assuming you don't have many pistols.

Might want to check this out. This was recommended to me and I'm going to pick it up soon. There's an option to pick up a target with it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004NKY23E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452190593&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=laserlyte+laser+trainer&dpPl=1&dpID=41hdZ-MN7lL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006OGOHD0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_1AmlDb242B334

It was a flash sale. tis over now:( I’m sorry, friend.

I keep all of my rifles and guns in my big safe in my walk-in closet. I keep my G23 in a Gunvault Speedvault SVB500 attached to the side of my nightstand.

I got this one on amazon.ca, good deal, fits my AR, plus my pistol and room left for mags:

https://www.amazon.ca/Plano-108364-Tactical-Weather-Single/dp/B00E221A88/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rifle+case&qid=1568847776&sr=8-7