(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best household painting supplies & tools

> As for disks for wood, theres these but ive only used the first link. I know they say theyre for paint, but they work great for sanding wood. They leave a decent finish. I used mine for sanding wheel wells on a skateboard. I found them at walmart for 2.50 a disk. They dont last long. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QLWHZLS/

Have you ever used a 'flap disc'? So far I've found a 36g flap disc to be fastest, I've used abrasives similar to what you link but not that coarse (like you say though, they'd wear-out fast - I know they're cheap, but my ultimate projects involve removing lots of wood so I want something that's long-term not disposable)

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O3IOEW/

I'd seen the chainsaw-type discs but only today did I start seeing these fixed-tooth (circular-saw style) discs, they're certainly priced-right but I think those are more for cutting a branch off a tree, whereas I'm looking to remove large areas (like, remove a softball's worth of wood from a specific spot), so the toothing on a chainsaw disc seemed my best bet and was what I'd planned until I saw these discs with rasps, I get the impression that, with the coarse option, that these beasts would remove material about as fast as a chainsaw-edged disc would but they have '3D' control, like I can really work shapes with those whereas a chainsaw-type disc only works on its edge/perimeter..

>Theres also this awesome but insanely priced turbo plane https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA2IJ0/

Yeah Arbortech is crazy expensive, I've seen a 'turbo shaft' that I think is for use with that planer, or maybe a smaller diameter planer by them, but it puts the disc ~3" away from the grinder - neat gear for sure but wayyyy out of my price range, am quite happy with my cheap stuff so far and, once I find the right disc for my angle-grinder I'm sure I'll be set (as I've got a die-grinder for smaller/detail work, so this is just for 'roughing-out' my cuts, then I'd switch to using rasps on my die-grinder to finish a project :) )

>The kutzall disks and lancelot seem like the best deal to me. Harbor freight sells a chain disk like that btw.

The HF chain disc isn't that much cheaper than a real lancelot and since the lancelot's chain is not fixed (it's sandwiched between two plates, so far less likely to ever kick-back) I'd sooner go with the Lancelot - but the kutzall and saburrtooth rasp-discs seem like they may be a better choice than a chainsaw disc, just wish I knew how much wood they remove / how efficient they are compared to the chainsaw-type!

>I would recommend a dewalt corded grinder, it will last a lifetime.

Already got cheapie HF gear, am approaching it with the mindset that this is just for getting into it, for learning - once I've had some experience I'll know what's best for me and can then comfortably buy brand-name gear (I got my die- and angle-grinder for less than I'd pay for a dewalt grinder... I know there's a huge quality difference, but so far as performance goes I'm nothing but satisfied with both of my grinders and I don't even have the best attachments yet! So as far as I'm concerned, it just makes sense to use these til they fail and then upgrade, will be in a much better spot to do so at that point!

Thanks a ton for the help, really means a lot!!

I'M IN :D And I've already got ideas c: Gonna start on this c:

EDIT: I meant to edit this.. Not reply. ._.

1. Something that is grey.
   
2. Something reminiscent of rain. This is rain because when you drop a bunch of them, it has the soothing sound of gentle rain c: (Craft WL)
   
3. Something food related that is unusual. How are pumpkin pudding flavored Kit Kats NOT unusual? (Food WL)
   
4. Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. (Yes, pets count!) This would be for my dad!! I want to make him a cake for his birthday with this wonderful topper! He just loves golf. He goes about 3 times a week ._. (Baking Stuff WL)
   
5. A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! I haven't read this yet. But.. we should read it at the same time. 'Cause I love talking about books with everyone c: AND. It's about a clash between men and women. A guy who's from a time where women are obedient and a women who's from a time where they go unquestioned and praised. Aaaaaaaaaand... FIGHT! (Books WL)
   
6. An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related!
   
7. Something related to cats. I love cats! (keep this SFW, you know who you are...) Cateye glasses c: ORRRRRRR feathers because I've seen cats attacking birds or walking around with a feather in its mouth COUNTLESS times c: (Both from my Craft WL)
   
8. Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. Shoe laces that don't tie aren't useful.. But shoe laces that don't tie AND LIGHT UP are beautiful c: And I would love to have them so my appearance at night will be FABULOUS. (Cutes! WL)
   
9. A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why?
   
10. Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain. You can make fake brains! It'll only be good enough to distract them for a moment, but that moment could be what saves you!!! (Baking Stuff WL)
    
11. Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. This would allow me to easily carry a white board surface with me anywhere. I am a math tutor and an aspiring math professor, so being able to have a handy white board surface would be lovely. ORRRRRR this for a more playful goal. My friends and I seem to have the craziest conversations and strangest encounters while we're playing together. This would be a fun way to get our stuff recorded and FAMOUS. loljk. We just wanna share the insanity c: (white board from School Stuff WL and Elgato capture from Dreams WL)
    
12. One of those pesky Add-On items. I just want mochi.. ;~; (Food WL)
    
13. The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why? This is my current dream item. I'm attending college. My laptop is a dinosaur and it weighs a ton. It works fine, so I'm not looking to get rid of it. But I need something that won't break my already breaking back when I bring it to school. I spend a lot of time on campus doing homework or just relaxing. This Chromebook has a great battery life and is a good price for what I need to get done. (Dreams WL)
    
14. Something bigger than a bread box. I'm going to assume this is bigger than a bread box because of the amount of candy in it.. (Food WL)
    
15. Something smaller than a golf ball. Sugar pearls are smaller than golf balls c: (Baking Stuff WL)
    
16. Something that smells wonderful. It may be too strong by itself.. But add it into some yummies and it'll smell DELICIOUS. c: (Baking Stuff WL)
    
17. A (SFW) toy. It's SFW as long as you aren't screaming, "FUCK" or bludgeoning a person to death with it out of frustration c: (Cubes WL)
    
18. Something that would be helpful for going back to school. I'm a math major and the majority of my math is done on white boards I have mounted in my room. There is no such thing as too many expo markers for me lol (School Stuff WL)
    
19. Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. Chain maille jewelry! :D I've only started with it :c (Crafts WL)
    
20. Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. It's a 3D DINOSAUR COOKIE CUTTER. You can make dinosaur cookies!!! THAT STAND. YOU CAN MAKE STOP MOTION DINO WARS. I are excite. (Baking Stuff WL)
    
    I'll come back with the three I missed c:
    
    Edit#2: Adding raffle phrase! fear cuts deeper than swords
    
    Also adding one of the bonuses! Purdy paintbrushes are made in Oregon c: They've been made in Portland since 1925! c:

Lots of good reviews on the Ryobi brad nailer, and cordless/(no air hose) is certainly very appealing.

Pneumatic nailers are still a little smaller than the cordless ones, so a little better for getting into tight corners when doing baseboard (inside corners under cabinet toe kicks, etc).

The pneumatic tools are also just so inexpensive once you have the compressor. I thought I mainly needed a brad nailer, but the 1/4" stapler has been very handy as well. Just replaced the carpeting on the cat tree, and the stapler made it a breeze. The Harbor Freight 2-in-1 nailer/stapler has poor reviews so I'd avoid it, but the separate tools have been great. I had a bad experience with the HF staples, but Dewalt staples in the HF stapler have worked well.

18ga brad nails are fine for most trim, but I feel like they are just barely enough for baseboards. I just got a 16ga nailer and I like them much better for baseboard. I feel like 18ga is perfect for light trim up to 1/4" or 3/8" thick, and 16ga is better for 1/2" or thicker, especially if it is dense like MDF.

I really like Flexzilla air hose; very soft and flexible with no kinking. Also put a swivel connector on the guns.

Pancake compressor will definitely not be enough for an HVLP sprayer. Would work for an airbrush, or possibly a small sprayer like the Critter spray gun.

Compressor can be pretty noisy and annoying indoors. Either look at the quiet ones like California Air Tools or HF's new quiet ones, or just buy 100ft of hose so you can leave the compressor outside while you work inside.

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

These might be some more "advanced items" but I have found them all to be of extreme usefulness and not too expensive to justify. Note: Where provided Amazon links are for reference only and I have no financial interest in the sale of the item listed.

- A set of ball-tipped metric hex key wrenches. The ball end allows you to get around obstacles and still rotate the fastener. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10946-Balldriver-L-wrenches-1-5-5mm/dp/B0006O4AEC Note: You'll only need, IIRC, three sizes but the set is still cheaper than buying the individual keys.

- A clean popsicle stick works great to "scrape" or swipe the occasional pre-print and post-print drip from a hot nozzle's orifice and cannot damage the metal. Actually a suggested tool by a lot of industrial hot melt adhesive system companies for the reasons I just stated.

- A small open topped container, about the size of a kids sand pail, for all the waste support, brim, raft and skirt material you'll be generating. I happened to have a clean empty plastic 1 gallon OJ jug and cut off the top where the jug started to narrow leaving me a 8" tall "bucket". Small enough to keep next to the machine because tiny bits of PLA...

- A small magnifying glass, good for layer quality inspections.

- A small AA powered penlight, I had one anyway on hand anyway but was surprised at how often I needed it around the printer that it now lives there full time.

- A plastic paint scraper since I do lots of technical prints that leave large amounts of random first layer support spaghetti stuck all over the build plate. https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-4718-3-Piece-Plastic/dp/B001SBJIA8 (I know for a fact this set I've linked to is soft enough not to scratch the PEI coating. You actually only want the smallest scraper in the set, the other two can be used for what ever but at $2.99 per set even if you never need the larger ones it's no big loss.)

- A small table-top digital humidity and temperature gauge to monitor your printer's local "micro-climate". At the beginning I found that there was some temp/humidity related print quality issues where I had first set up my printer that forced me to relocate it and the only way I figured that out was by using this gauge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/

- Good quality needle nose pliers with some grip to them. The pliers Prusa included with the printer are, IMNSHO, junk. I have both of these and am satisfied with both:

Good: https://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-378M-Profile-Electronic-Serrated/dp/B004UNFK58

Better (and cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPHEW2/

You may want at least 1 new one. You may be able to get life back into those old brushes with mineral spirits but I've never had much luck reviving them to a point where I am confident about the outcome. I would pick up something like this- http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Extra-2-1-Angular-Glide-Brush/dp/B000BQYH3O/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1413396508&sr=1-1&keywords=paint+brushes and take good care of it. That said, if these are the tools they are providing, then a perfect job might not be what they care about. Try cleaning them and see how they work before buying something that isn't necessary. You might find they work well enough for the task at hand.

I have recently purchased my first home with my fiancée, and like all of you, have an enormous list of projects we'd like to do. I am fairly handy and am prepared to tackle any project (with supervision on electrical). All that being said, I have always used other people's tools when working on projects, so I don't have many of my own. I have a budget and would like to purchase all of my tools on Black Friday/Cyber Monday to get the best bang for my buck. I'd like your advice on which tools are the best for my budget.

We are planning on renovating the master bed, bath, and closet, kitchen, mudroom, and the laundry room. I also plan on making a kitchen table, coffee table, cabinets, dresser, etc. The first project is the laundry room and mudroom, which will require tile, built-ins, cabinets, and replacing washer/dryer. I have a tool budget of $5k-7.5k (ideally staying on the lower end) and would like your thoughts on my equipment list.

If you've used any of this below, what did you think? Are there any cheaper or better alternatives I should consider?

• Table Saw w/ fence JET ProShop II 725004K $1,500 http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/the-jps-10-1-75-hp-115v-30-proshop-tablesaw-with-steel-wings/725004K
  
• Mitre Saw Dewalt 15 Amp 12" $500 https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-12-in-Double-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-DWS780/202922350
  
• Drill Press Dad's old press $0
  
• Router Bosch MRF23EVS $220 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRF23EVS-Electronic-Fixed-Base-Trigger/dp/B002LASDGK
  
• Plung Router Bosch MRC23EVSK 2.3 HP (Is this a good Plunge router?) $280https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Fixed-Base-Variable-MRC23EVSK/dp/B002LASDGA
  
• Router Table Bosch RA1181 $200 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6
  
• Modular Table base Should I build this? $200
  
• 8 large clamps Jet Parallel Clamps (Does Jet make quality clamps?) $600https://www.amazon.com/Jet-70411-Parallel-Clamp-Cabinet/dp/B000F79022
  
• Planer Dewalt DW735 $500 https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735-13-Inch-Thickness-Planer/dp/B0000CCXU8
  
• Joiner Delta Power Tools 37-071 6 Inch MIDI-Bench Jointer $450 https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-37-071-MIDI-Bench-Jointer/dp/B00IYJCFIY
  
• Vacuum Jet 1HP $400 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-650-cfm-dust-collector-with-bag-filters-1-hp-model-dc-650?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIupH4jIn83QIVReDICh2P9QS4EAQYASABEgIgYPD_BwE
  
• Band saw Model Jet JWB-10 $450 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-10-open-stand-bandsaw-model-jwb-10
  
• Finish Nailer Dewalt DCN650D1 (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $300https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-16-Gauge-Cordless-Angled-Finish-Nailer-Kit-DCN660D1/206528533
  
• Framing Nailer Dewalt DCN692B (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $400https://www.nailgundepot.com/dewalt-dcn692b-lithium-ion-battery-cordless-framing-nailer-details.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo6Ddtor83QIVw4CfCh1EIg2zEAQYASABEgK-pvD_BwE
  
• Paint Sprayer Graco Magnum 257025 $240 https://www.amazon.com/Graco-257025-Project-Painter-Sprayer/dp/B004Z2090U
  
  Last question: does anyone know where I can find plastic sawhorses that allow me to put a 2x4 across the top, but also allow the legs rotate for easy storage? My dad had these growing up and I cant find them anywhere. I have found all plastic ones, but I'd like to have the wood so I can saw through it and replace it as needed.
  
  Thank you for your help! I look forward to keeping you updated with our projects.

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

• Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  
• Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  
• Gundam Marker Value Set
  
• Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  
• Bamboo Skewers
  
• Alligator Clips
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
• Styrofoam Blocks
  
  I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.
  
  So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?
  
  Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?
  
  TL;DR:
  
  

• Are the items I have listed a good starting point?
  
  
• Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?
  
  
• Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?
  
  
• Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?
  
  
• Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.
  
  
• What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?
  
  
• What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?
  
  

Here's a few tips I haven't seen so far...

If you're a Costco member, you can get big sheets of cardboard or heavy brown paper they use between rows of many products. Also boxes are handy to put under paint cans, roller trays, and to put messy stuff in.

Glad Press'n Seal Plastic Food Wrap is good to wrap rollers and brushes for short times. It sticks to itself, and makes an easy air-tight cover.

I personally love those 5-in-1, or 6-in-1 painter's tools. For opening cans, they work much better and faster than the little paint opener tools. They are wider than a screwdriver, and don't mess up the cans at all. The curved part is good for cleaning rollers, and the sharp part is good for reaming out nail holes before filling. And of course, you can use it as a scraper.

Most tools at Home Depot are as cheap or cheaper than Amazon, with a 90 day return period. If you have an online account and use any charge card, you don't even need to save receipts - they can look it up, and so can you.

I use a Grex TG3 with an Aspire Pro compressor. I hear good things about the Badger Krome Renegade if you want a lower priced airbrush but I love the pistol grip for long sessions and the compressor is the best i've ever used and I find it fairly priced for how awesome it is.

I’ve used this spray gun from amazon to do a fence, a shed and a few art projects for Halloween. This thing is amazing. I am by no means a pro, but it did a perfect job, and it’s easy to use, low overspray and super easy to clean.

Its good to blow out your grinder now and then, although you dont need to do it often unless youre cutting masonry. Take the cover off on the back of the shaft of the grinder. Youll see a ring and pinion gear that make it an 'angle' grinder vs a straight grinder. Put your grease there. When the grinder gets warm the grease will become thinner and coat the gears.

As for disks for wood, theres these but ive only used the first link. I know they say theyre for paint, but they work great for sanding wood. They leave a decent finish. I used mine for sanding wheel wells on a skateboard. I found them at walmart for 2.50 a disk. They dont last long.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QLWHZLS/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O3IOEW/

Theres also this awesome but insanely priced turbo plane
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA2IJ0/

The kutzall disks and lancelot seem like the best deal to me. Harbor freight sells a chain disk like that btw.

I would recommend a dewalt corded grinder, it will last a lifetime.

Edit: my reason for getting dewalt tools is theyre made in usa. They have 7 facilities in america. I have the 11 amp angle grinder, die grinder, 12 amp sawzall, and impact driver and drill and all of them are made in usa. Some products arent made in usa though. Also their grinders have built in dust ejection.

Honestly, don't bother with either of those compressors. You REALLY want one with a tank. For precision painting, the tank ensures an even air flow, while the kind that don't have a reserve tank sometimes can't keep up with consistent spray.

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1449878332&sr=1-1&keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank

YES, it's more expensive, but honestly if you want to do it, I highly suggest you do it right. Had several friends buy those starter kits and they always wound up replacing both the compressor and brush it comes with, thus spending more.

Speaking of brush, those brushes are pretty bad. They aren't precision machined, so they use O-Rings all over the place. Those are hard to clean and a point of failure.

I have two airbrushes that I adore: an Iwata Revolution and a Grex (I forget the model)

You have a few different kinds of grips: a pistol grip and a pen grip. I have one of each and use them for different applications, but have found that I mostly prefer the Grex.

I think this is what I have: http://www.amazon.com/Grex-Tritium-TG3-Trigger-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002XQ2K5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449878477&sr=8-2&keywords=Grex+Airbrush

Someone can probably recommend a cheaper alternative-

I recommend a gravity feed. Side feed and vacuum feed are both more of a pain to clean, and don't work so well with small amounts of paint for miniature work.

Anyways, just my opinions and observations. YMMV!

I always wash the walls, if they have any gloss you should use a deglosser. Let the walls dry then as others have said you will want to come back with a primer or two and a top coat of whatever color you want.

A few tips...

Wrap blue tape around your roller cover and pull off any lint that could come off in your paint (not really necessary but makes cheap roller covers more like the more expensive ones from purdy).

I just bought one of these, just put the paint on the pad with a brush you will need to get the pad soaked at first then a little dab every few feet or so. Roll the rollers along the ceiling and you will have a nice 2" or so cut line around the room. I just did a small room and had the whole ceiling line done in about 10-15 minutes.

Get yourself a good roller tray and use disposable liners, this makes cleanup easy.

You never know when you'll find buggers in your new paint (I'm looking at you SW Duration) so save yourself the hassle and strain your paint.

Don't use your paint can as a cut bucket. Open it up and pour out what you need then seal it back up. Speaking of such, these work great on latex paint.

A brush that I would highly recommend is the Wooster Shortcut Angle Sash Paintbrush, 2-Inch They're very inexpensive but in my experience are very good quality brushes. I've used it recently for painting throughout my house and it makes cutting into edges along the ceiling a breeze. It has a flexible handle that makes gripping it at weird angles easy and good quality bristles that really make it tricky to spot where the brush was used vs. a roller. Another bonus, they're small enough to fit inside a ziplock bags to store when you want to hit a stopping point for the day and come back later to finish painting without cleaning the brush!

It's very simple. Get something like this and then this for the smaller stripe.
You could do it without a clear coat but the clear coat will make it more resistant to pealing/chipping/more permanent. If you do decide to do a clear coat it's not coming off unless you sand the clear coat and your paint off.
Most helmets/bikes come like this from the factory with their vinyl stickers etc placed on and then just clear coated over.

>They usually keep a pretty thorough record of everything you buy if you need to re-order another can later on and the goddamn label got covered up with paint before you thought to take a picture of it.

Pro-tip: spend the $3 on a lid and this paint on the side is a non-issue. For the longest time I thought it was just another gimmick but they totally work and are super easy to clean.

Here you go. I apply these on my 350's, and with any other nice shoe I have. Perfect if you wanna resell like new, or just be rest assured the bottoms will be clean.

edit: Here's a youtube video showing how to apply.

This really depends on two major factors: 1) is the mastic primarily ON the concrete or soaked INTO the concrete, and 2) what you will put over the concrete floor as subfloor or final finish.

Solvents work best, but are toxic, smell bad and you should really be wearing a half face respirator with proper cartridge when using the stuff. Effective yet a pain to work with.

Here is an example:
http://www.zoro.com/value-brand-low-odor-asbestos-mastic-remover-5-gal-3uac3/i/G4330952/?utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA

and another

http://www.cronincompany.com/MSDS/Parabond/Parabond%20Detach.pdf

Lots of folks want to ‘go green’ and use either a soy or citrus based alternative.

These work, just not as well. The main drawback here is you may need multiple applications, and still need to scrape the most stubborn patches.

Soy based includes the one mentioned below – it has various brands including Franmar (mentioned below), Seal Green and others

http://sealgreen.com/Mastic-and-Adhesive-remover-for-concrete.aspx

This product also used to be called Bean-e-doo (soy bean). It works, but – in addition to the drawbacks listed above – it does leave a residue which may make future glue-on finishes very difficult. These complaints, and others, are listed here:

http://www.amazon.com/Bean-e-doo-Mastic-Remover-1-Gallon/product-reviews/B0006NL1JA/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt_rgt?filterByStar=critical&pageNumber=1

The citrus and soy based products work (though you often need to buy twice as much as the mfrs recommend to get the job done). Also, they work best for mastic that is primarily ON the concrete, not for the stuff that has deeply penetrated; you need a harder solvent for that issue.

The other person mentioned leaving it in place and laying new product over (e.g. pad and carpet). I am guessing there is a reason you don’t want to do leave the mastic, so I provide another option: seal it.

Concrete mastic (‘thin set') or especially a polymer-enhanced concrete leveler (parabond, red devil) are possible good options. You don’t want to use these if you apply a water sealant to the concrete (some folks seal basement concrete for water intrusion issues), but otherwise they have many great applications.

don't be shy to call the manufacturers (DAP, para-chem) for the best application/product for your situation; they can be very helpful...

https://youtu.be/gGLV7fd0-fQ

Takes about 4 hours. For the flat part of the pan I highly recommend using the drill press instead of a handheld drill because it tends to wobble like crazy.

If you do this I highly recommend wearing a painters mask because otherwise your mouth will taste like iron.

You should be able to find a paint stripper disk in a hardware store, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Rust-Stripper-Brush/dp/B000BQT4UK

Buy 2 because they slowly chip away and getting 1 lodge pan smooth takes up about 1.5 of them. You'll need an adapter to attach to the drill and when the adapter starts touching the pan that's when you want to switch the pads out.

The whole idea is to make the cast iron smooth. The smoother the better and trust me unless you do this (or smooth it out some other way) your lodge pan will never be "nonstick".

You generally want to use a fresh new razor blade for each run to avoid contamination. Here's a cheap box of blades. And here's a great little blade holder. It makes scraping way easier, just remember to clean off the blades with some ISO before using. Cheers.

Sweet. I was looking at this, but yours has better reviews. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

Maybe just a brand thing. I'm using the Scotch Blue painters tape: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001EJMS4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know if Id recommend it though. In my limited experience Its hard to get fine details in the first layer like holes or text to stick unless you rubbing alcohol the tape first, but when you do large surfaces stick too well and you'll have a hell of a time to get them off. I started using this glue stuff that came as a sample pack in a couple of my 3dprintingcanada.com orders but decided it wasn't worth the mess and hassle. Others have had success with hairspray so I'd give that a shot first.

I miss the stock flexible magnetic build tac that comes with the Ender 3 pro, so I ordered a replacement that I'm going to stick on top of the glass. My bed was so warped from factory that I could almost stick a dime in the middle under a straight edge. Hopefully with a magnetic build tac on top of the glass Ill have the best of both worlds. My temps will suffer and it will be a little heavy but I'm willing to experiment.

I have this sprayer and absolutely love it. Its sprays very evenly, painted the exterior of my house with it. Taping up is the hardest part when dealing with sprayers! My only complaint is that the hose is very stiff and is a bit short but I put the sprayer in my yard cart and pulled it with me around the house. Cleaning is really easy as well, just attach the garden hose to it (mine came with the adapter) and run it for a few minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Graco-257025-Project-Painter-Sprayer/dp/B004Z2090U

Try this 3M double-sided tape[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=psdc_228921_t2_B004BN81LC] instead of the regular electric tape. Its more flexible and strong. Just wrap up the whole cable with this and you'd be happy for couple of years.

something like this

You just want a small all in one patch kit. If you are new to repairs, just do a little at a time give it plenty of time to dry.

Nothing wrong with checking out “drywall repair” on YouTube either.

Good luck

This is the best answer. Dealerships and detail shops use something like this or this. If you don't want to get a tool you can just use plain razor blade like this, they're dirt cheap at any home hardware store or most places that sell car parts/tools.

This will work much better, quicker, and with less mess than any of the other suggestions of expensive solvents or, for some inexplicable reason, lemon essential oil.

I find kapton tape to be super helpful in various situations, helping hold things in place, or mask pins off so I don't bridge things by accident. The main reason it's good compared to any other tapes for miscellaneous rework is it's high heat resistance. random example on Amazon

3M Patch Plus Primer Kit with 8 fl. oz Patch Plus Primer, Self-Adhesive Patch, Putty Knife and Sanding Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOQKUQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RBxSBbDZW9JS0

I’d recommend that one. Use a drop cloth under the wall so you won’t get any on the carpet if you have any... good luck and I pray you find paint to match the wall.

https://youtu.be/qvtoikKG318 the guy in this video uses the same kit

I can help you with this. The secret is soybeans. Actually, a mastic remover made of soybeans:

https://www.amazon.com/Mastic-Remover-Gallon-Franmar-Chemical/dp/B0006NL1JA

Kind of expensive, but it saves so much time that it actually becomes a bargain. Melts that stuff like butter, and cleanup is easy. I used a wet vac to suck up most of it, and then wet it over twice more with hot water and then the vac. Once done, you really could not tell it was ever there.

• keep your car tires properly inflated
  
• use a wand to blow out your computer
  
• use a wand to clean out the filters from your vacuum cleaners
  
• get a simple spray kit and use it to apply paint, or other finishes rather than buying cans of spray paint, etc.
  
• air nailers are great if you are doing any sort of wood working, or interior trim installation.
  
  

I dunno, if you do it yourself, it can be pretty cost effective.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG6QYS

This stuff is the best for sharp crisp lines, i use it for automotive graphics as well as my models.

Sorry Reddit didn't show me any notifications, just came across this on my feed (mobile... ffs)
As the other reply says though, Amazon for the win! Got it on Amazon Canada, Just looked for the widest I could find

Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape, Multi-Surface, 2.83-Inch by 60-Yard https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001EJMS4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-.fWAbJ8PXT9M

I use double-sided tape, like [this one](3M Scotch RP25 VHB Tape: 1/2 in. x 15 ft. (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0zBEAbQDWXD9D). I usually put 4 pieces on, one over each screw that secured around the processor. Holds really well. This is what most of the modders I follow use.

More about preparation. If you're truly going to replace the floors than don't even bother with drop cloths. All you'll really need to do sponge your walls down with a damp sponge and some TSP cleaner.

First thing first - take off all your electric faceplates, vent covers, light fixtures, everything. Don't think you can paint around them or over them. It will come out looking bad if you don't.

I'm not one to use painters tape. I find it takes longer and I'm often disappointed with the results.

Get 5 gallon buckets of primer and ceiling paint. It would probably be more efficient to do all the priming first, then all the ceilings, then the walls, then the trim, then the touch up. But you're probably less likely to burn out and it will be more rewarding taking it a room at a time.

First room you'll learn a lot of the tricks. So pick a room you're not going to be in often. Slap primer on your walls - go crazy. Hit the ceiling, it's no big deal. While that's drying roll on your ceilings. You can be a little reckless here too. Hit the walls with the roller, you'll clean those up later.

Now that the ceiling is done you should see if primer on walls is dried. If so then you can start painting your walls. I like to roll on first and then come back and cut in with a brush. A good brush for cutting in makes all the difference. http://www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush-Q3211-2-Shortcut-Paintbrush/dp/B002YC06T2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463669852&sr=8-1&keywords=rubber+handle+paint+brush

Since you're painting everything anyways you should freshen up your trim work. Use the good brush to do that.

After everything dries you can go back in for touchups.

When I painted my entire house I would do 1 room a day. More than that and I started to burn out. By the time you're finished you'll be a pro and will see all your mistakes in the early rooms. But don't worry you'll be the only one that notices them, and you'll never feel like painting again. :)

Dead thread, but just for posterity's sake: I've started experimenting with these.

I think these can be utilized safely. I'm basing a build around a RapidLED aluminum enclosure. This allows me to earth ground anything I may bump in the tent. I've also bought inline fuse holders to limit the current on both legs (independently) of the AC (positioned as close to the main power cord as feasible.) Finally, a little kapton tape to cover the solder joints that can't be heat-shrinked (eg., right on the boards themselves, which are behind a the enclosure's plastic splash-shield to begin with.)

Just a little taste from today's initial testing, I think the 50 watt ICs may be a bit ambitious. I wired up three of them on my 20" enclosure, and even with the 92mm fan going (though in fairness, without thermal compound behind the boards) they were putting off a bit of smoke. Upon shutdown, none of the wires look melted, so I think the smoke must have been from the boards themselves. I'm not sure if this is some initial out-gassing, but I'm uncomfortable with it. I'm going to try again with some 20w & 30w ICs. The flicker that Big Clive talks about on his youtube channel wasn't very noticeable to my naked eye.

Just speed tape and kapton tape. Both are good at taping things. Kapton is more for electrical, aluminum for insulation. Considering this is just testing I'm sure the speed tape was used just because they have a bunch of it.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B01GQQ6FOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1466724251&sr=1-2&keywords=speed+tape

https://www.amazon.com/ProTapes-Pro-Polyimide-Dielectric-Strength/dp/B00DVBLKZE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466724270&sr=8-3&keywords=kapton+tape

I use this tape which is just 2 inch wide blue masking tape. I got it at Target but they sell it a lot of places. I don't know if there's a better kind, that's just what I had on hand... how wide is the stuff you use?

Thank you much for this advice. I am reading him all these comments. I hadn't known about skin injection. That doesn't not sound good.

Hey, would skin injection be a problem with a sprayer like this? This isn't a high pressure sprayer right?

https://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-C800971-Painter-Painting-Projects/dp/B071X9FZ7R/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3LA8KMD06TAVN&keywords=homeright+super+finish+max+paint+sprayer&qid=1567987497&s=instant-video&sprefix=homeright+super+finish+max%2Cinstant-video%2C177&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Rust-Stripper-Brush/dp/B000BQT4UK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DNZWTQ39A3E22NJBSS9Z

This is pretty much it.

I got this - is good?

We've done a bunch of furniture with latex paint with this guy. I think I also add some Floetrol the paint to help it go on smoothly. And you need an air compressor.

https://smile.amazon.com/Critter-Spray-Products-22032-Siphon/dp/B00006FRPJ/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Flood-Floetrol-Latex-Paint-Conditioner/21987608?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1194&adid=22222222227016818525&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=51806713511&wl4=pla-83209389911&wl5=9003439&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112550058&wl11=online&wl12=21987608&wl13=&veh=sem

3M RP25/GRY055 Scotch RP25 VHB Tape: 1/2" x 15 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KZmnDb1NGC7ZH
I bought this. It worked real good.

Invest in a good sander and a paint eater

Something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Repair-Compound-Self-Adhesive-Sanding/dp/B06Y4682NF or https://www.amazon.com/3M-Patch-Primer-Self-Adhesive-Sanding/dp/B00IOQKUQG/

(Drywall repair kits can also be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.)

Do you have leftover paint for touch-up?

This place sells bike specific kits, and they ship to the US

Or you can buy some 3m clear film in bulk on Amazon and have some left over for repairs to the wrap.

Get a painters tool like this. Gets all my prints off. Just keep the flat end against the build plate and it will slide under.:
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-4251-Painters-6-In-1-Tool/dp/B00002N6IT/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492174077&sr=8-2&keywords=painters+knife

I use a paint tool like this one which offers a lot more power than a putty knife and tap with a hammer as needed.

I primed it first did two coats and sanded in between coats then did two coats of paint. I used a spray gun. HomeRight C800971.A Super Finish... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X9FZ7R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Made this hole way back when I was in school. Tried hiding it with thick paper and tape. Now that im planning on repainting my walls from this pee colored yellow to a shade of grey, I need to repair this hole first.

Whats the easiest way for me to repair this without costing me too much? Take into consideration Ive never done anything like this before.

I was thinking this Patch Plus Primer, Fiber Mesh Patch, and Plastic Knife Set? Will these be all that I need?

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

• Scotch Blue Tape
  
• Elmers Stick Glue
  
• Digitial Caliper
  
• Mirco Cutter
  
• Palette Knifes
  
• Nozzle cleaning kit
  
• 2 rolls of Hatchbox 1.75mm PLA, green and grey
  
  I have a set of exacto knives and a screw bit set. Is there anything else im missing?

I've used Critter sprayers for over a decade. Hard to beat those things for reliability and ease of use.

It's on Amazon for 11 bucks. It's 2.83" x 60 yards.
https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-2-83-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B001EJMS4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484372268&sr=8-1&keywords=wide+painters+tape

I'm not entirely sure if I can recommend them, but what I have and gets the job done is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SBJIA8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are pretty cheap though, with fairly soft plastic that will take damage. I've had to sharpen my main one once already.

If it's too spongy, add a layer of polyimide film tape over the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVBLKZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_FbUtDbQMAS8T8

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Vinyl-Tape-471-PN6404/dp/B005EB72WY

Try the name brand. It worked for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4DU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is up to you. I personally would use mastic remover: https://www.amazon.com/Mastic-Remover-Gallon-Franmar-Chemical/dp/B0006NL1JA, remove it with a shop vac after it has dissolved, and then lay the planks over it.

Maxcraft 69283 Stubby Scraper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BRL59E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TeBcBbF4QCCSY

I think this would suffice

Lay some of this clear 3M vinyl down on the roof.

This is my daily latex driver

This thing: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Rust-Stripper-Brush/dp/B000BQT4UK/

You can find the black Mazda badges here and here.

Tape that small.

I second cutting in sans tape. Get one or two of these and you'll never have to tape again. I found them locally at Ace Hardware. For some reason the rubber handle lets your wrist stay incredibly steady.

Why not get something like this and then use mason jars?

Everything is stored in glass and seals, plus you can use it to spray.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG6QYS

I would primer and paint then we use this in Florida. Put it on any leading edge of your bike. When/if you want to remove it then just pull it off. No harm to any finish, paint chrome or other wise.

One day I'll bite the bullet and upgrade! Right now I'm using this little guy: https://www.amazon.com/Critter-Spray-Products-22032-Siphon/dp/B00006FRPJ

Which works decent enough but adjusting the pressure takes some patience.

I used this to mount my CF spoiler on my vehicle. Outdoors in hot/cold weather, 120+MPH speeds. This shit sticks.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-RP25-VHB-Tape/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469217575&sr=8-2&keywords=vhb+tape

Actually all I ever used is this:

3M ScotchBlue 2090-2A Ruban Adhésif de Masquage Peinture 48mm x 55 m https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00004Z4DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YA8YDbX87P7MH

It’s cheaper, durable, you can do whatever masking with it and cut it to shapes, never had any issue whatsoever with deteriorating paint underneath.

https://i.imgur.com/CT68Clh.jpg

Also i don’t have to bother maintaining stock of vmultiple rolls of varying width. Give it a try you won’t be disappointed