(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best jump starters & battery chargers

>Hi, thanks for the reply! Dealing with AC power seems a bit scary for a completely unexperienced person like me. I was trying to stay away from inverters, but I may not have a choice with my laptop. How much efficiency is lost from going from 12v to 110 to 19?

Each step is >90% efficient. So you don't lose much energy.

A little inverter like this will do the trick. If you get one with 2 terminals on the back, you can easily hook up a Powerpole cable to it.

>On a separate note, have you had any experience with wiring 5v usb charger ports to the battery? Could I just use dc to dc converters with heatsinks?

For my USB charging of my phone, I got one of these and use my car USB charger in it. That gives me 2 USB charging outlets, with QuickCharge 3.0 which is what you want for really fast cell phone charging.

>Also, I'm a bit confused about the fuses. Right now I'm planning on hooking up the battery to 3 switches (master, 12v cig outlets, and usb), two 12v cig outlets, and two usb ports (usb on one connection). Between those things, I was thinking of setting up a fuse box with one of these with a 3a fuse for the usb ports and possibly 5a for the car chargers? I don't know if it would be better to use 3a since I'm just going to have a dew heater and maybe (if I can find an adapter) a charger for my laptop.

One fuse coming off that battery is plenty. These things RARELY short out.

You don't need switches, just unplug stuff you don't need.

>If I were to use the kind of fuse setup you mentioned, how would that work? It says it includes 40a fuses, would I just replace those with 10/15a? Also, if I were to use those wire fuses for each connection rather than a box like that, is there any downside to using different gauge wires? The website mostly says those wire fuses are 10 or 12 gauge while I was planning on using 16. I'm honestly not sure if I even need 16 for the setup or if I should just go with a thicker wire like 12 gauge for the entire setup.

Stick that fuse thing mentioned earlier on the battery. Yes I would swap the 40A fuses for 15A fuses. (Charging your laptop will take about 7A at 12V, so you need more than 3A for all the rest. That fuse thing is 10ga which is fine. 16ga is fine for all the wiring you add.

>I'm very interested in those powerpole connections.Do you have an example on your setup on how they are connected to the different components both inside the battery container and outside? Did you use the powerpoles on the inside or just normal wiring with insulated terminal connections?

I will take some pics. There is nothing in my battery box except a fuse holder that terminates in a Powerpole connector. That goes to an 8 position distribution block. Everything plugs into that block.

>Edit: For external use of those powerpoles, would you remove the 12v adapter male end from the wires on the device, connect the wires to their associated powerpole connection, and then plug that into the powerpole box?

I bought a number of 6' long cables from Digikey with a 2.1mm x 5.5mm connector on one end. I cut the bared end to length, and crimped on a Powerpole. Like in this pic. That was a 6' cord, but I only need 6" so it was tidier to chop it off. Note those are 18ga - thick enough for any one device. I like the red&black look.

>Thanks!

You are welcome.

One more thing. I do recommend buying the crimp tool. I have NEVER had a problem with reliability of connections using this. You might get away with crimping with pliers, but an intermittent connection in the dark will drive you nuts.

Hey I'm not the OP, for more info please go to the original post to congratulate them. :)



Personally I DO live in a van, it's a 1992 Chevy G20 Gladiator. I have a memory foam mattress on top of a wooden platform, totes and cardboard boxes for storage (food, clothing, etc.) underneath. having the mattress off the floor gives space for storage, and also insulates the mattress from the heat or cold of the ground.

For privacy I have tinted windows, non-adhesive window film, collapsible foil sunshade for the front window, and black bug screen mesh like this for the side windows.

For water I use sturdy Arizona tea jugs. I have a basic Coleman camping toilet for nighttime and emergency uses - some people simply use pee bottles or five gallon buckets.

If it's cold at night I have a [12V electric blanket](https://www.walmart.com/ip/TREKSAFE-12-Volt-Heated-Travel-Blanket-White/54609929] and/or a 12V "car seat" warmer that I put under the mattress. I also have a propane Little Buddy heater which I have not yet used.

My main luxury item is an Alpicool C15 refrigerator powered by two 35AH "house batteries" (in parallel) which are charged using a Battery Doctor isolator. The Battery Doctor is run by my alternator when I drive-it only starts charging the house batteries after my van battery is full. The fridge uses 5.8AH per day. I used a cooler for a year, but the drawbacks are constantly buying or procuring ice (like from soda fountains), and food spoilage from it getting waterlogged, plus having to drain it frequently.

For hot meals, I use a 12 volt "lunchbox cooker" (works similar to a crock pot) which is powered in my cigarette lighter while I drive (or I can run it with the house batteries through a 12v splitter - the Alpicool is plugged into the other side. I also have a propane camping stove which I have never used.

I have a USB mini fan to run at night, or I can run my small regular fan through the 300W power inventor where I can also charge my laptop and/or phone (I usually charge the phone in the cigarette lighter).

I don't make any money if you buy from any of these links, but I only used them for illustrative purposes - I encourage you to shop around on Craigslist, eBay, Amazon, Walmart, check yard sales, etc. find the best priced similar item that works best for you. You don't have to get everything all at once - I didn't. But if you can get a basic minivan or van (seats removed), a mattress (or sleeping bag even) on a frame, and some jugs of water, it's a start.

Memberships at truck stops don't really get you anything except a couple perks like free coffee after you spend so much money etc. If you fill on diesel, they give you a free shower but no go on regular fuel. I got a commercial card from pilot just by walking thru the 'trucker' door on the side and asking for a shower and telling them i didnt have a card. She gave me a commercial driver card (never asked for cdl) and put a free shower on for me.

Every time since then ive gone in and asked for a shower (prepared to pay) and given them my card they have given me a free one as a courtesy (not at the same one). Sometimes they ask if i filled up my truck today which i honestly reply no, i haven't filled up a truck today.

I pretty much lived at a pilot for a year, it was the kind that had a restaurant attached to it. I wouldn't advise abusing it like that, but i became close with the people who managed it from its opening day. But you can stay at any of them a night or two and they wont say anything. Of course as with staying at walmart, the right thing to do is buy supplies or food there if you stay. I bought a giant refillable mug and got a soda with it each time for $1.39.

You do not have to be a member to use the wifi, power or even sit and watch tv in some. They don't care. Some smaller truck stops do but not pilot or flying J. I heard loves is similar but i dont go there usually.

As someone who was in a similar situation as you, id advise scraping or begging/credit carding whatever to get 100 watts of solar ($164 kit + $90 29DC walmart battery + $20inverter) and a cooking setup in your rig asap. Your cost of living will plummet like a meteor after you can store and eat actual groceries.

1. The output voltage depends on the transformer's primary:secondary ratio. They are unidirectional, so a transformer wound to supply 6V from a 120V source can be used to supply 120V from a 6V source.
   
   
2. The transformer design depends on your power requirements and voltages. The output has a centre tap to easily reverse the polarity through the windings (and thus create a basic AC input) without the use of an H-Bridge.
   
3. If you're looking to keep total costs down to under $15 per unit, something like this or this may be helpful.
   
   
   To answer your final question, it may prove safer, more efficient, and less expensive to use a commercially available inverter and inexpensive car battery to power all 20-30 bulbs from a common source.
   
   The linked inverter circuit is not terribly efficient, and the lower your input voltage, the more current drawn due to the conservation of energy. 3W at 6V means a 500mA draw from your cells, under ideal conditions. Increasing the input voltage decreases the current consumption, and extends the life of the batteries.
   
   If you like doing this kind of thing, making one to test would be fun! That being said, if you're planning to host an event, there may be plenty of other things on your mind that day, and taking 'home made high voltage supply' off that list might help.

For Japanese consoles in NTSC-U/C regions, you should be fine. They are generally engineered to withstand the higher voltage, however it WILL shorten the overall life of the system due to introducing extra heat in the system (though it probably wont outright kill it, as trying to use NTSC systems in PAL regions would).

If that worries you, there are a few options.

First, you can replace the power supplies. For consoles with external power supplies (like the SNES, Xbox 360, etc.), you can simply buy an equivalent for the US region, and not have to worry about it. For consoles with internal power supplies, you can generally replace the internal power supply with one from your region (as they generally use the same internal voltages), and not have to worry about it either.

Second, use system mods on US consoles. I don't know about 3DO, but there are a few options available for the other two. For Saturn, you can simply buy an NTSC-U/C console, and an Action Replay Pro 4 in 1 cartridge (which you should get anyways for the Saturn), as that will allow you to play most Japanese import games without issues. With the Dreamcast, you could buy the imports, then make CD-R copies of them to play (because the copy protection in the Dreamcast is laughably easy to bypass). You can also install a mod-chip the US Saturn and Dreamcast to play imports as well.

Third, buy a step down converter. I don't know much about them, but something like this would probably be what you're looking for.

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  

  
  

  And here's the part list!
  

  
  

  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  

  ---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

Tesla Model 3 roof rack: https://shop.tesla.com/us/en/product/vehicle-accessories/model-3-roof-rack.html

It may seem unnecessary to mention this since it's in the Tesla store and it seems like there is a post every time it goes back on sale but I can't count how many times I've been asked by Tesla owners where I got it from and who makes it.

​

Tesla Model 3 console organizer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P6DMBWB

The center console is a big deep storage area. It's like a toy box, nothing you put in it has its own place. There isn't a good solution for keys, garage cards, coins, sunglasses without this. I like this one better than the Basenor since it is covered in the same felt material that the rest of the console interior has. It feels like an OEM part.

​

200W power inverter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HPZ9JY

Charge and run your 110V AC things! Nice to have for road trips.

​

Lanyard and badge holder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HLFZWBD

I put the key card in the badge holder and put it around my neck and under my wet suit. Highly recommended solution for all surfers!

I bought a power inverter from Amazon. My husband has a couple of spare batteries that he uses on his boat's trolling motor but you could use it on a spare car battery as well. We haven't used it yet but we only plan on charging phones and running a box fan. I know the battery will run the trolling motor for a long time before it dies though. If you happen to have a large battery like that laying around it can be a less-expensive alternative to a full power supply.

If anyone else has done this before I'd love to hear about it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NZI4K6/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1. Take yourself a project box like this.
   
   
2. Get yourself a 12v 10A PSU (or higher Amperage, whatever...)
   
   
3. Get yourself some barrel connectors. (You'll also need some of these to hook up to your various devices. Alternatively, set up the project box to have male outputs instead of the female.)
   
   
4. Get some 20 awg wires or so and some solder.
   
   
5. ???
   
   
6. PROFIT!
   
   Note: I am most definitely not an EE. I can only confirm that this would work, but some of these other folks would have to attest to the safety of such a setup. I do use some of these female barrel connectors in projects I've done, however. I've bought uxcell products in the past, but never anything like the PSU above. Get the PSU you trust and make sure it fits within the project box.

I've got both inverters. The pure sine wave is clean AC and electronic equipment works well - no humming of overheating. I started with an inverter that I had that was modified sine wave and the electronics made a humming noise. I'd recommend the pure sine wave inverters.

​

I'm using a 2000 watt inverter, but some things like an induction stove don't run. I'd consider a 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter. Also, make sure you size the cables correctly - fatter wire is best.

>I don’t have a heated tank so his water tends to stay around room temperature

You need an adjustable heater. Room temp isn't warm enough. Bettas need 78-80F consistently. Plus they're more prone to illnesses like ich when temps are below that. And lethargy, slow metabolism, etc. If you have a 5-10 gal tank, grab the 50W Aqueon Submersible adjustable one ($17).

As for transporting, you can scoop him into a Mason jar with the lid on with holes poked on the outside so the sharp parts are outside. Or saran wrap with holes poked through it and rubberband tight around the jar opening.

Get some warm or hot water bottles and pack it around him in a box padded with pillows, blankets, towels. Hopefully the heat from the bottles will keep it warm enough but not too hot.

Or grab a heater right now and an inverter for your car to plug into the cigarette lighter. It would have an outlet for the heater to plug in while you drive. And then you can put him inside the water change bucket with the heater suctioned inside the bucket. Fill the bucket halfway or so with the tank water from the tank, and drive careful. Keep your filter media wet as well so I recommend tossing it into the same bucket or putting it into a ziploc baggie with tank water and into the bucket so it stays warm as well.

He should be the last to go in the warmed up car, plug in the heater, and the first to go in and get set up when you arrive.

Edit: something like this--> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SGJIRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j.W1DbKXAVRQA

Wow that's something I never would have come to on my own. Thanks so much for the great response!

So any recommendations on the inverter?
This seems to fit the bill? It mentions that AC connections need hard wire though - not sure what that means. I'm connecting it to the battery via the included battery clips right now - is this different?

https://www.amazon.com/Power-PWRIX120012S-Inverter-Transfer-Switch/dp/B00TI1D5JK

Dryers are 240. Many a/c systems are also 240. You may have other 240 outlets near your garage. Here is one for $220 or so: https://amzn.to/2IewHsz. With this one, you can change the plug and use the same one for 110 and 240 charging! Get one with multiple tips and you can keep it in the car for flexible charging everywhere. If you do this, sell the charger that came with your car on eBay. Don't need it.

Also, get at least a 1000 watt inverter like this one https://amzn.to/2rFVPNB. With this your car becomes your backup power. A fridge uses 75 watts or so an hour. Your car most likely stores 24,000 watt hours or running that fridge for 320 hours. Plus it makes for an awesome camping source of electricity.

I am amazed no one really mentions these two items as core to EV ownership that actually adds a ton of value.

I once sold an EVSE charger that came with my car for less than it cost for one that had dual charging and came with three different 240V AC plugs! Crazy to think people hire electricians to have a Level 2 charger installed for over a grand.

Good questions.

I lost my small four panels system last year, so I'm starting over with a low-budget and evolving edutainment system, beginning with some off-hand components. Right now it begins in an empty utility closet as a mains-fed battery bank that is manually used as needed:

• 2x EverStart Maxx 24DC Marine/RV Deep Cycle 12V Battery (in parallel, ventilated, each an estimated 80Ah @C20)
  
• 1x VertaMax PURE SINE WAVE 1500 Watt (3000W Surge) 12V Inverter
  
• 1x Cobra CPI490 400W Compact Power Inverter
  
• 1x Generic 12vdc 2A battery charger (no temp monitor, auto-standby when charged, manually selectable 10A bulk charge mode)
  
• Assorted 1/0 cable, connectors, 250 amp circuit breaker, 300 amp battery cutoff, digital voltage display
  
  So, I realize that I've already boxed myself in (to some degree) with the 12VDC inverters, but at $250, I'm willing to throw them away, as needed. The smaller inverter is for efficiency with small loads. The larger inverter is to allow the system to scale up and add more batteries to the bank, and also for computer hardware which requires clean power.
  
  I need to improve the mains-fed battery charger (and since the issue of temperature has come up in another context, it reminds me that I also need to put in a temperature monitor to cut everything off). Perhaps just adding a desulfator isn't enough. Charging back up slowly isn't much of a concern, but my understanding is that I wouldn't want to go higher than 8A per battery (on these batteries)?
  
  Some likely directions in the near future are:
  
  
• Minimum 4 solar panels (36-96vdc total), wattage TBD estimating 1KW (which may normally be too small of a charge for the batteries, but they'll also be fed by a DC charger on mains), with an MPPT charge controller (I want to avoid the thick cables that are used in the batteries and inverter)
  
• Always-on UPS type operation (I don't know if I can find something cheap that would automatically switch between mains voltage and inverter output, but I probably don't want to add a high wattage 12VDC supply, isolate it from the battery, and go full-time through the inverter)
  
• Direct wire into an isolated wall outlet (on the other side of the wall)
  
• Finding a nice cheap ammeter that'll handle up to 250 amp @ 12VDC
  
• More batteries
  
  Longer term would be:
  
  
• Higher voltage battery bank
  
• Wired into a home transfer switch with a limited number of circuits
  
  So I've got some challenge here in that I've got an evolving system and I have to avoid boxing myself into a corner. But I've got the advantage that it doesn't feed into the grid, I can reasonably do whatever I want, and I can take advantage of any good components that I run across.

Yes it hooks up to your car battery. Your fridge/freezer mostly likely pulls 800+ watts, a direct 12v inverter will be necessary. This wiring kit comes to set that up to the inverter. They were really popular during hurricane season. https://www.evextend.com/Emergency-Power-Kit.php
Bit of a sticker shock on the price, but in my experience with car stereos which require a similar set up, it is not outlandishly expensive.

Cigarette lighter circuit for sure won’t be able to power any fridge greater than a mini fridge, which this inverter can do if you’re interested.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQ4Q2L5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IzVUDb0KCHHK8.

Thanks for this reply. I do know that inverters are designed to handle the surge, but I'd like to get around it entirely with some tinkering if possible. I don't like throwing brute force at a problem when a simpler, more elegant solution is available, but simply not built into the appliance by the manufacturer. (Usually if it's too heavy or bulky to ship, a manufacturer will slim it down, and then I'll have to retrofit it at home: more refrigerator insulation, heavier flywheel on disk sander, etc.)

I have very low power needs at my home (less than 1kWh/day) and have no problem running only one power hog at a time. I like to design pedal power into an appliance when I can (bandsaw and lathe with heavy flywheels, washing machine spin cycle) but I'm interested in this problem of the surge power anyway. If it's as simple as spinning up the motor with a ripcord and then turning it on the next moment, that would be really interesting to know.

I'm going to probably buy this Xantrex.

BESTEK 300Watt Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter Car Adapter DC 12V to AC 110V with 4.2A Dual Smart USB Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQ4Q2L5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VvXWCb74HFNZZ
Pure sine is always the better option IMO. I ordered this one. It had great reviews online and it didn’t require a direct connection to my battery. There’s a power outlet in the cargo area so it’s perfect what I’m doing.

> a: Will the AC unit run off off just the batteries?

No, but the heat will.

> b: What size of generator would be best for the above scenario? I see a lot of conflicting info on this?
The description for the Yamaha 2400 says it will run a 13500 AC however other info I found said you need at least 3000W of starting power (vs the 2400 starting of the Yamaha linked) https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-EF2400iSHC-Starting-Portable-Inverter/dp/B00AYUWDZG

I have a 4000W Powerhouse Inverter generator, and it would stall out starting the generator, until I installed an Easy Start from MicroAir. Now, it never does. I would recommend getting the Easy Start and then you should have no problem with that Yamaha.

> c: The Nash 25c has a generator enclosure that's vented and plumbed for propane, would it be dumb to not get a propane genny (or even gas) that fits in the enclosure as that sounds nice and it's locked up when in use (may go skiing or dirtbiking and leave the trailer while the generator runs and fills up the batteries).

I have no experience with this, so I will have to let others answer.

> d: Any idea how long it would take to fill the batteries (sorry don't have specifics no the "RV" batteries that are being included but) a general idea would great. Like 5-8 hours or just a hour or two?

Depending on size, it will probably take a couple of hours to charge. TBH though, my batteries last a long time (I have two deep cycle batteries) when just using them for lighting and incidental other things.

This is what I use. I only run a CPAP machine off of it though. I carry a spare battery to run the CPAP. It works perfect, however, it sounds like you are going to need more power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FWPU5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honda sells some really good relatively quiet generators but the cost is up around $1000 +.

They make a good battery operated device for inflating mattresses.

https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Universal-Quick-Pump-Colors/dp/B00005JD3Z/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1474303937&sr=1-3-fkmr1&keywords=coleman+battery+inflater

I think it's very odd that your multi meter only goes up to 8v unless it's a dedicated 8v battery tester. Some multimeters have a fuse that prevents them from overloading so if you did try to test a 12v battery I would expect the needle to pin to the top for about half a second before that fuse blew and then it wouldn't read anything until you change the fuse. So it could be a bad fuse on your tester.

I recommend a smart charger like this: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-G1100-UltraSafe-Battery-Charger/dp/B004LX3AXQ/ref=pd_sbs_263_12?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004LX3AXQ&pd_rd_r=3be48e80-db93-11e8-8b2a-43f93729c796&pd_rd_w=yGlNN&pd_rd_wg=trGW4&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=JD2NDBVDGT98STE29GAZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=JD2NDBVDGT98STE29GAZ

They'll condition the battery and you can usually get a better life out of them. It'll tell me when the battery won't take a charge so that I know when to replace it.

You jest, but after spending 3 months without power the year before last, I wished I had a Powerwall and some panels... D:

I still intend to look into it. After Maria, I put a whole bunch of extra cycles into my USB power bank (and phone) with this... Useful in a pinch but tiresome every other day, and the smell of diesel when chilling outside the house was no fun. Still, I was far better off than many... Missed my desktop system tho!

Edit: And either I jinxed myself or the power co. is really into 4/1... It'd gone out yesterday for 15-20 min. but it went out this morning and hasn't come back, sigh... Hadn't had much issue this year.

if you are looking for simple off grid power solution for small electronics I would suggest the combination of The Duracell Powerpack and the Instapark Mercury 27 which comes with everything needed to recharge the powerpack via solar panel, including charge controller. I don't know that it would be enough to power a fridge but for basic electronics it's more than enough. also having the jump starter and air compressor on the power pack and great too.

This is a good suggestion and beat me too it.

For a car inverter, I purchased this one and have not had any issues with it. Plus it has 2 USB charging ports. I hooked up a 19" LCD TV and 2 phones for a trip, worked great. Get a couple USB extension cords also from Amazon and the batteries on the iPad's won't die...unless you want them too at some point during the trip...

http://www.jamesdysonaward.org/projects/micro-wind-turbine/

I'm always wary of someone promising me a thing without technical specs, or hooking up a multimeter to the output under either ideal (wind tunnel) or real life conditions. But in the most ideal method, to generate the stated 5w of power, that thing's spinning at ~10hz, and I'm not seeing it spin at ~10hz. While the closest solar panels are around ~1ft x ~1ft for the same max wattage. https://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-50022-Battery-Trickle-Charger/dp/B0006JO0TC

I'm also curious if it going to be anything more than an interesting concept, I expect that in october there's going to be a delay or a problem, and the next "new release" date will be sometime middle next year.

So color me skeptical.

Thanks everyone for replying to my vague questions.
Basic AC is fine for now, I really don't know what I will do about DC yet but I want that in the future and once the spray foam is in, that's pretty much it. Hate the stuff but I gotta have it, especially in MN.
My biggest question was about the panels, looks like I should use a basic AC panel and leave room in a cabinet for more.
Should I get this or add later? (leaning toward the latter)
I'll take a walk and think about the layout.
Slightly off topic: Anyone recommend a decent affordable 4g antenna/amp?

That's awesome! This is the mppt I bought
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XHCT5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_WkSxDb1DYWR70

But you can get away with something cheaper it's just less efficient like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MVZ777D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_cmSxDbVT7JSZ4

Then you just need a 12v pump and a 12v battery

I had to use an inverter because I was too lazy to buy a 12v pump
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJ1DN6F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NoSxDbYYFW55Q

Oh and you'll need cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D7VBKQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_qnSxDbFFHQHFY

Let me know if you have questions!

Done.

• Solar Controller
  
• Converter Charger
  
• Inverter
  
• Battery
  
• Grand total so far is us$ 290. I havent included a box, wires as needed, 12v outlet, and fuses (the yeti says it isnt fused) all of which you could source for under $50.00. It would have more than 3 times the battery storage capacity and better charging specs.
  
  Edit: Link here to the Goal Zero Yeti AGM for comparison.

https://www.hunker.com/12003435/can-you-use-japanese-appliances-in-the-us

Answer: may be ok, but to be on the safe side you can pick up a step down transformer, less than $20 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerBright-VC100J-Transformer-countries-Convert/dp/B00757RYPK/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=18BMGWNK0W0XJHE3WJ7B

By connecting an inverter to the 12v battery in the car. The 12v battery gets charged by the traction battery when the car is on and ready to drive.

I have a pure sine wave 300w car inverter like this one:

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQ4Q2L5

I also have an adapter to connect it directly to the battery with clips, as the cigarette lighter jack in the car probably will not deliver enough amperage to run the inverter at anywhere near its full power output.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0759D724W

Both the inverter and the adapter are fused for extra safety.

Laptop charging.

In the mean-time I've seen this recommended for the Tesla because it lacks fan noise.

edit: The above link is to a modified sine wave inverter. If you want to charge laptops and cell phones, you need a pure sine wave inverter like this puppy.

The Hondas are always a choice, but pricey.

This thing is fantastic (also pricey)
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-EF2400iSHC-Starting-Portable-Inverter/dp/B00AYUWDZG

This is just not that complex I have a spare battery in the garage and a 500W inverter from Amazon for $33. Works great.


https://www.amazon.com/Kinverch-Continuous-Inverter-Adapter-Charging/dp/B07KJ1DN6F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dc+inverter&qid=1555650913&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Why not get a 120v car adapter and use any computer you want? Seems restrictive to build a computer around a very specific power delivery when you can transform the power to a universal standard.

Something like this might be useful too:

BMK 200W Car Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC DC Adapter 4 USB Ports Charger Adapter Car Plug Converter with Switch and Current LCD Screen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HPZ9JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qtu6CbW7JC9RE

For our electrical distribution needs, we installed a Progressive Dynamics PD4045 converter. It is a 3 stage, smart battery charger, provides circuits for the air conditioner, fridge and anything else we want to plug in, and also distributes the 12v power. We have a 30A main breaker, a 15A breaker for the A/C and another 15A breaker for another 110v circuit. Each 12v run is individually fused (USB chargers, lights, etc).

You can see the details of how I did it on this page.

To run them both at full power at the same time you would need to provide 400 watts plus 10% efficiency. That's about 37 amps @ 12 volts. I'd just go with two 12V 20A switching power supplies like this or two of the 12V 30A supplies that are in the parts lists that I linked you to earlier. You could also get away with using one 12V 30A power supply if you keep the combined power of the handsets under 325 watts.

Thank you.

What about something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TI1D5JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SxlQBbJ5RS9X5 except I plug my regular UPS into it. Using the UPS as basically just a fast transfer?

When I moved with my fish in buckets, I used something like this ac adapter to power some heaters to keep the temps up. Seemed to work really well.

so could I purchase this:http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Outlets-Power-Inverter-Battery/dp/B004NZI4K6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1450203602&sr=8-13&keywords=power+inverter

and then hook it up to the + - and then run it like normal right?My only question is what size would the battery need to be?I was thinking of going and buying a random super cheap battery but I don't know the requirements I must meet to run it for 2-3 hours atleast.

Get a solar trickle charger that sits on the dash and trickle charges the car while it sits. something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-50022-Battery-Trickle-Charger/dp/B0006JO0TC More watts is better than less..

Is this the charger that you're referring to? The 1amp charger is only good for charging up to 40AH; probably have to step it up to a 3.5amp charger.

http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-G1100-UltraSafe-Battery-Charger/dp/B004LX3AXQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426701823&sr=8-3&keywords=1+amp+battery+charger

I've lived in MN all my life and have not had problems with batteries sitting in the cold unused.

My rig sits all winter and about once a month it gets started and sometimes I put a battery charger on before I start it.

So in other words you shouldn't have it draining in less than a week. Chances are something in the vehicle is putting a drain on the battery when it sits.

You could disconnect the ground cable when parked in order to fix a phantom drain.

You could also get one of these and have it plugged in whenever it's parked. I would recommend one of these for any vehicle parked for an extended period of time.

You may want to look into something like this then.

you could always use a inverter hooked straight up to your car's battery. You'd have to leave your car running to not drain the battery though.

here is one : $100 on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Power-TechOn-Inverter-Outlets-PS1001/dp/B0131GJ5X2/ref=sr_1_14?crid=33YKUH6TPOH1W&keywords=pure+sine+wave+inverter&qid=1558705946&s=gateway&sprefix=pure+sine+wa%2Caps%2C361&sr=8-14

You could also use a buck DC converter to step down the voltage to dim instead of a dimmer like that which is PWM. PWM is more efficient, but be aware that if the dimmer's PWM frequency isn't really high (10Khz+), you will see flickering/banding in any video recorded from the lighting.

Here is a buck converter that uses a little screw to step down the voltage as much or as little as want. As long as the DC voltage out is less than the DC in, it can step down. This type of converter wont affect any video/photography since its not PWM.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-180057-Converter-Step-down-Stabilizer/dp/B019RKVMKU

Products

MPPT Tracer Charge Controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KWPH12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Go Power! 4 Stage Battery Charger
https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GPC-45-MAX-4-Stage-Converter/dp/B007GN4VKY

1200 Watt Pure Sine Inverter
https://www.amazon.com/Power-PWRIX120012S-Inverter-Transfer-Switch/dp/B00TI1D5JK

Eco Solar Cool Refrigerator
https://www.ecosolarcool.com/collections/upright-refrigerators/products/solar-refrigerator-12-5-cuft-escr355ge

Trojan T105-RE Batteries
http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-105-re/

Solar Panels (Monocrystalline)
http://www.ecodirect.com/Canadian-Solar-CS6K-295MS-T4-295-Watt-Mono-PERC-p/canadian-solar-cs6k-295ms-t4.htm

They sell pure sine wave inverters.
Like GoWISE Power PS1001 Pure SINE Wave Inverter 600W https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0131GJ5X2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6wB6CbY03339E

I think 600 watts should be enough for a single amp and pedals.

Something like this...

I got two PM's about the battery/inverter rig so here is what I told others and a bit more.

I seem destened to live in areas with crappy power so when I moved to my new apartment and again found that the power here flickered like a candle in the wind I hit up CL and found a nice big APC backup PSU that had no batterys for $50($600 new), also on CL I found a set of two Exide sealed Gel cell marine Deep cycle batteries for $50 each($200/ea new). The system has run for 3 years now flawlessly, the computer will run for 7 hours on backup power.


When the hurricane hit I knew I could use the batteries to charge stuff with my inverter but they weigh like 80lbs so I wasn't about to drag them down to my car to charge them so after talking to a neighbor who is a boat guy I hit up a marine supply place down the road and picked up the biggest(that I could afford) solar charger, it was about $120, the next step up was over $300. I didn't think 20w would totally make up for energy drain so my computer use was very limited but I was able to keep my cell and ipod charged for the duration. I just hung the solar charger off my balcony(its a 2'x2' square of 4 1' square PV cells) and left the batteries where they were out in my storage closet on the balcony and ran an extension cord outside to it, the inverter runs on demand so I never had to mess with it. The inverter is a 1500w unit that I got from HomeDepot about 8 years ago to run some power tools at a camp site, it is way over kill for the use but given that I already had it oh well. If you just want to run a TV or computer you could get away with half or less wattage, heck a 500w unit would be fine for most non power tool or appliance uses and can be had for under $50 from radioshack.


The solar panel looks like 4 of these in a collapsable frame, the writing on it is all Chinese...

I looked at something like this. But I'm not sure yet.https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD4045KV-Mighty-Distribution/dp/B002XRU6FM?ie=UTF8&keywords=mighty%20mini&qid=1409800732&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6

I recently installed a 5wt solar trickle to maintain my Aliner battery.
Imgur Too early to tell how well it works.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-50022-Battery-Trickle-Charger/dp/B0006JO0TC

I bought this battery pack from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YR00MI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wanted something that could be used for other purposes than just the CPAP. Will last 2-3 nights as long as I remove the humidifier. I had a week long trip so I also got this solar panel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F05VDVU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put the panels on top of the van during the day and they trickle charged the battery back up enough each day that I never got below 50% on the battery.

>Are you talking about this buck converter?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU

​

That one does have a built in current limiter that is controllable ... so you need to make sure the output is 12vdc, and the current out is either unlimited or 1amp or more... It is possible to starve a fan for current and slow it down

you want a buck converter. there are plenty of adjustable ones. eg http://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RKVMKU

How about this one: https://www.amazon.com/DROK-090029-Numerical-Switching-Adjustable/dp/B019RKVMKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480536531&sr=8-1&keywords=DROK%C2%AE%2BLM2596&th=1

It seems to have what I want, though the chip seems to be a TI knockoff

[inverter](ampeak 1000w power inverter 12v dc to 110v ac dual ac outlets 2.1a usb car inverter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NZ8DSB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NbC6Ab814KH3Z)
[solar controller](allpowers 20a solar charger controller solar panel battery intelligent regulator with usb port display 12v/24v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU0WMGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_adC6Ab4DAFH9X)
And ill add some sort of solar panel

I've now ordered this one which is also a $30 wonder, but is pure sine wave, and rated at 300W, (700W peak). The herbalizer uses 2.5A 115V, so 287.5W.

​

I will cut off the cigarette lighter attachment, and connect directly to car battery via a fuse.

I went with a hardwired AC one so I can have traditional AC house wiring and plugs. http://www.amazon.com/Power-PWRIX120012S-Inverter-Transfer-Switch/dp/B00TI1D5JK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457023612&sr=8-1&keywords=aims+power+1200

Decided to go with a small (1200 watt) AIMS pure-sine inverter. It's designed to be hard-wired, which will be convenient for my uses.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TI1D5JK/

Look into a Yamaha EF2400ISHC . I had it converted to tri fuel (gas, propane, cng). You can choose to carry gas or propane with you. I chose propane because there is virtually no maintenance and a 20 pound tank will run it for well over 12 hours. I change the oil once a year whether I use it or not.
I have run my 15,000 btu AC Unit with it after installing a soft start capacitor. It runs my 13,500 btu unit on its own.

http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-PROWatt-Inverter-Model-806-1220/dp/B002LGEMOQ

Sorry, don't mean to rub it in.

Power inverter, but for the Dot I use USB which my truck does have. Not a super fancy truck, but it works for me.

I have a different idea for you. A guy I work with has a 2007 that had the same issue, but he simply did not have the money for a new one. He was stranded at work, again, when we were talking about it. His battery was in terrible shape; he put it on the charger every night to be able to get to work.
I thought about getting him an extension cord, but he was 200' from the closest outlet, so I told him that if he tried one of these solar trickle chargers, I would buy it from him if it did not work. He has managed to get to and from work for over a month in this North Dakota weather with no issues. I just plugs it in when he parks.

Here's what I got, though I was going to consolidate it in another post this week.

So I posted this on Reddit last month after I finally got around to getting the gear we needed. There are many non-emergency items that go in the emergency kit. This guy's post really made an impact on my way of thinking. I see the car kit as not exclusively for EMERGENCIES but for all situations where you need something that you would normally have at home and you simply just don't have it, like a pair of socks or knife and fork. There are two parts to the car kit, the Emergency Car Kit (which goes in a pack in the back of the car) and the Supplemental Car Kit which goes in between the front seats which is for a specific emergency where there's an accident and you need to get out and help someone asap. Some of the stuff is duplicated, because I like redundancy and they're needed in both scenarios: asap (supplemental) and general purpose (main car kit).

Supplemental Car Kit:

• Road flares (electric and olden fire type kind)
  
• Small first aid kit
  
• High visibility reflector vest - for when you need to cross the highway and not get hit by other cars, especially at night.
  
• Car Jumper - This needs to be charged and ready to go.
  
• Hand crank flashlight - Not very bright, but it's for dire emergency where you don't need to worry about batteries.
  
• Inverter for AC power - I just happen to have one of these that I got a while back. I think it's more of a luxury item but can still be handy in a pinch. You can charge a laptop on it along with phones or whatever.
  
• Garbage bag - Not for emergencies, but for picking up garbage when you're in a place that has trash all over and humans suck. This makes picking up garbage easy, so there's no excuses.
  
• Gloves - For picking up garbage, doing car work, getting in fight (I'm serious) and pulling someone out of a broken window.
  
• Parachute cord - An impulse item. I always need the stuff when I don't have it.
  
• Knife - You can never have too many knives
  
• Tire pressure gauge
  
  Here are the additions to the Emergency Car Kit:
  
  Emergency Car Kit:
  
  
• Small back pack - My thinking is that this is better than a big plastic tub. In the event of a true emergency it's ideal to be able to grab & go, which you can't do with a tub.
  
• Windproof matches - Because.
  
• Knife & Fork Kit - You need utensils (for each person) in the event that you need to eat. There are many non-emergency items that go in the emergency kit.
  
• Steel tweezers - because the plastic ones in first aid kits suck ass.
  
• Extra AA & AAA batteries
  
• 2 Garbage bags