Reddit mentions: The best needle-nose pliers

Get a pi 3, because integrated wifi + bluetooth.

I would suggest that you buy a good quality power supply (Canakit is good, else the official rpi one). Just don't use chinese crap or a phone charger.

Also, get a good SD card. I strongly suggest a Samsung Evo+ 16GB bought from a reputable seller.

A breakout board of this type can be useful (albeit not essential at all)
https://www.adafruit.com/product/914

I personally bought a kit from Canakit including the previously mentionned stuff. It's a good kit, but not necessarily a great value. The SD card they include is good but not great, and I didn't like the case.

Then for everything electronics, Aliexpress and Ebay are your new best friends. You'll find the same stuff on Amazon, but you'll end up paying 2-3x the price. I cannot suggest a kit of electronic components, because it is a bit ridiculous to just buy 30 resistors. Get 600 of them for 5$ instead.

Edit: here is a copy of a previous answer I've given to a similar question.

Basic Power supply. You probably already have a 5v wall wart, check if it can supply 2.5A. If it came with a product you bought, it's decent quality. If you need to buy one, get it from Element 14 or an other reputable store. You can find cheaper ones, but I strongly advise against getting a random Chinese psu. Doing so would be asking for trouble.

Numerical signal doesn't require high quality cables. This would will do just fine. 3.72 CAD http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6FT-HDMI-1-4-3D-Cable-HDTV-High-Speed-Ethernet-ps3-bluray-1080p-FREE-SHIPPING-/131144973049?hash=item1e88d97af9:g:2gcAAOxyJX1TAj3K

I don't think this is essential at all, but the kit you linked contained one. I bought this one and I'm happy with it. If you want to save some money, I would skip this guy.
$4.10 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Raspberry-Pi-model-B-plus-T-cobbler-expansion-DIY-kit-GPIO-cable-breadboard-GPIO-T-adapter/2046473508.html

$2.04 830 points decent cheapo breadboard. Maybe get more than one. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/181227589427?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Aligator clips. I think 50cm is too long, maybe get 2 sets and shorten the cables of one.
$1.55 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1set-10pcs-Alligator-Clips-Electrical-DIY-Test-Leads-Alligator-Double-ended-Crocodile-Clips-Roach-Clip-Test/32580823346.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.11.Q66gPn&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=9259cb1d-c2e2-42ff-a599-3f468f6ecc6e

The kit you linked contains 5 resistors. That is a joke. Get this assortment and have fun sorting them.
$2.68 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/30-Kinds-1-4w-Resistance-1-Accuracy-Metal-Film-Resistor-Bag-600pcs-in-1-Set-Passive/1752861568.html

$1.10 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100PC-Lot-3MM-5MM-Led-Kit-Mixed-Color-Red-Green-Yellow-Blue-White-Light-Emitting-Diode/32376627762.html You can also get RGB if you want, but they are a bit more expansive. LEDS sure are fun to play around with.

Jumpers. Essential to connect stuff to the pi. $2.84 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dupont-line-120pcs-20cm-male-to-male-male-to-female-and-female-to-female-jumper-wire/1490773403.html
More jumpers. Those are for connecting stuff on a breadboard. I don't really like those as your board will get messy quickly, but at least this kit contains shorter jumpers than the previous one, so it's a nice addition. I would suggest you get 6 colors x 25m of 22 AWG SOLID CORE wire. You can cut it to length and make your own jumpers. I got a kit from Elenco for about 20$ on Amazon. If you want to do some breadboarding, I consider than as an essential. $1.38 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-65pcs-lot-Jump-Wire-Cable-Male-to-Male-Flexible-Jumper-Wires-for-Arduino-Breadboard/32437796067.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.10.PzcAVY&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=ad849cd3-deff-4e0b-92ae-e3d15373fd4a

Cheapo potentiometer kit. $3.30 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-10pcs-Linear-Potentiometer-1K-Ohm-5K-Ohm-20K-Ohm-100K-Ohm-220K-Ohm-Assortment/533133005.html
Those with 4 leads are a pain in the breadboard. They keep jumping out and stuff. Plus you won't find any use for the extra pair of leads.

$1.99 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-100PCS-2-pins-6-6-5-mm-Switch-Tactile-Push-Button-Switches-6x6x5mm/1523104421.html

Not essential, but cheap and fun!
$0.99 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-LOT-0-56-inch-1-Bit-7-Segment-Red-LED-Display-Digital-Tube-Plastic-Metal/32335395078.html

You will need those sooner than you think to make a a circuit you'll find on instructables. For one pezo, you can't go wrong.
$0.95 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-20PCS-LOT-New-NE555-NE555P-NE555N-555-Timers-DIP-8-TEXAS/32328453891.html

Because you won't do breadboarding with your pi all the time. Get a battery connector (next item) to power the board. I suggest you bookmark this shop! Robotdyn is the BEST SHOP on Aliexpress by far. Few items, but very high quality (like, amazing quality and the best packaging I've seen so far). Why not get an arduino nano or uno for a few dollars? Sometimes an arduino is better suited for a project, and they are so cheap.
$1.19 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Breadboard-Power-Supply-5V-3-3V-1A/32581547480.html

$0.51 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-2pcs-90-DC-9V-Battery-button-power-plug-for-Arduino-Mega-2560-1280-UNO/32236294183.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.2.vdMJ0V&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=5c916f06-2c87-48bf-9075-e191078d3d89

Cheap cutters, but they cut very well! The only cutters you'll need for a while. $2.14 Wire cutters http://www.ebay.ca/itm/322001218703?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
You'll also need some long nose pliers. Again, no need to get anything fancy.

But if you want to make a gift to yourself, I am absolutely in love with those pliers (make in Italy) http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-PN-2007-Long-Nose-Outside-Serrated/dp/B00FZPHEW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1460924870&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+pliers

I don't consider a case as an essential. But I love cases. And this one is one of my favorites. It's compatible with the pi3 and because it allows a good airflow, you won't need to add a fan. Just get a "heatsink for rpi" (1$ on Aliexpress) if it doesn't come with your pi.
$3.15 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Raspberry-Pi-2-model-B-Acrylic-Clear-Case-with-logo-Compatible-with-Raspberry-Pi-B-plus/32334774743.html

Nice and cheap kit, but by no mean essential for a beginner.
$3.84 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-set-RM065-Trimming-Potentiometer-Variable-Resistors-Assorted-Kit-10-Values-Each-10pcs/32596638037.html

If you get in the hobby of electronics, you'll need some caps. This kit has most values you'll ever need.
$6.50 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/15-value-120pcs-50V-Electrolytic-Capacitor-Assortment-Kit-Set-/131155968234?hash=item1e898140ea:g:w0QAAOxykmZTOlin

Finally, I strongly suggest you get a multimeter. Either get the cheapest one you can find like this one : http://www.amazon.com/General-Hand-held-Multimeter-Transistor-Function/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1460925081&sr=8-6&keywords=multimeter (it will do everything you need just fine) or get a Unity UT-61E for about $50. The absolute best meter for the electronic hobbyist, but by no mean required for a beginner. Just don't go in the middle. Don't.

One of the first times I had to remove the PSU connector in a PS4.. I tried, and tried, and tried to perform the job with an iFixit kit that came with pliers. I should've known better, but I thought "Hey, it's designed for the projects on this website! For example, this PS4 teardown tutorial! I think the tools are terrible, but maybe they know something I don't."

lol no. They were very spindly, like miniature knives, and while that's useful for some tasks, it's not an ideal tool for someone who just wants to unplug some ribbon cables and others. I can think of no situation in which such a tool is better than the other alternatives, for simple DIY motherboard wax-on/wax-off tasks.

Of course, instead of pliers being too light, they can also be too heavy. Heavy-duty pliers that are used for normal crafting and repair tasks are not very good for this. If it's just a normal pair of house pliers, they can pull the connector out properly, but it's harder because they aren't very precise. Something designed for pulling metal out of walls (etc, etc.) is pretty scary to use on a PS4.

In case the pliers are the problem, try some flat nosed pliers/duckbill pliers. I use these because I like the hand feel of their mechanism, but almost anything is fine if it's flat, thin, and wide on the business end. Tekton is good and very present online, Lindstrom is also popular... the important part is getting a good strong gauge of metal, with a thin flat tip, that looks smooth and soft to touch. Some pliers kind of look like weapons and you don't want to use those kind of pliers for this.

The PSU connector can be removed non-destructively, even if it's being very stubborn! Don't give up! But it's easiest if you use a tool with some muscle. The connector assembly is pretty strong for its size, and ideally you want something stronger than it, so that your tool "wins" any physics matches about which force is stronger. Also, the PSU cables I've unplugged usually have a few tiny dots of superglue on them, which would explain why the first pull is so difficult. I didn't see them until I looked with a strong flashlight and magnifying glass. Sure, it looks like a plug and an outlet, but it's actually sealed tight and you're breaking the seal! So it's whatever the lb/kg resistance of the glue is, plus the action potential of the plugging mechanism. You're definitely going to want something sturdy on the tip, and standard pliers are weak on the tip. Even needle nose is designed to snake its way in and then leave the hard work to the rest of the tool. That's why flat nosed is good for it, because it's designed to be strong at the tip instead.

[ Note: If you're feeling really sure that you're going to break something, you can get some plastic pliers, ESD pliers, or nylon pliers specifically for this kind of job. Sometimes I think everyone should use softer heads like these for pulling power connectors, if only it wasn't for the force that some require. Still, if you use nylon ones, it's almost impossible to break anything. If you don't want to give one strong tug, you can give 600 small ones over the course of 12 hours instead! (a friend did that once because they were just too afraid 😅 it's fine) ]

Lastly, if you're sure that your tools are alright, it might be worth mentioning that pulling side to side doesn't work very well. I actually made an image of the way that I do it. Instead of holding the connector by its left and right sides (and jiggling it sideways to try to get it out), it works a lot better to just clamp down on the top and bottom ends. The wires are designed to withstand being grabbed like that, as long as you have a lock on the hard plastic housing of the plug.

My first instinct when I saw the exposed wires was to avoid them, I assumed that I would rip them straight out. But the cable is meant to be approached from the front. Not straight in front, but at a 45' degree angle so that you can catch more of the plug inside of the pliers. Then just pull, and slowly tilt up and down to dislodge any glues or melted plastic.

If you've done anything like this before, you will probably have an instinct for when you're about to lose your grip. Just make sure you let go as soon as you feel unsure about your grip. Take a few seconds to rest and then carefully clamp the pliers on the PSU plug again. It takes a bunch of repeats to get it out if you're maximum careful.

P.S. If nothing works after a lot of honest trying, sometimes the old technology "magic fix" can get things in motion. Put the PS4 in a freezer for 15-60 minutes, and then one of the hardest problems will be gone. When the PS4 is at room temperature or hotter, the plastic in everything will bend and warp instead of letting go. Freezing makes it stiff so that it's more like pulling two bricks apart. I'd only use it as a last resort, but the freeze trick fixes a lot of things, like earbud tips that won't come off and stuck together Legos.

> ??? I'm clearly not a European. I was born and raised in Texas. I drive a Ford Truck, a Chevy Corvette, and a V-twin motorcycle. I don't know why yer being so cheeky mate, methinks ya need a pint.

So why are you talking like that then?

> Lol you keep calling me a fanboy, even though I NEVER say that Knipex is better than X, or go into Klein or Channellock threads or whatever, and tell everyone how awesome Knipex is. That's what YOU do, come and shit on Knipex whenever you get a chance. I don't care. They're good pliers but not the best in everything, and they're overpriced, and overkill for the majority of users that buy them. I like them, I can afford them, I like brand continuity, so I buy them. Channellock makes good pliers, and I've used a lot of them and they served me well. I've been to their production plant in Meadville, and respect that they keep most of their production in the USA.

You say you like that they keep most of their production in the USA but yet you don't ever talk about the other brands like Greenlee, South Wire, Klein, Channellock and others (and those brands do make it in the USA). American made products are just as good as Knipex. Sure Knipex is usually loose and smooth and out of the box but if they perform the same then you are just paying for aesthetics. I'll admit Channellock is rough out of the box usually and has a rough finish but they're also built just as well.

Also you don't like that I shit on Knipex when it's deserved but don't realize that I own Knipex itself and have compared them to other brands? Very strange. Knipex has outstanding products like the mini bolt cutters, pliers wrenches, and other specialized pliers but some of their regular pliers are no better than the USA made ones (and cost more for the name-brand). Also when Knipex deserves it I praise them so no not whenever I get a chance and I own Knipex. If I shit on them whenever possible I wouldn't own various Knipex pliers.

> I took a closeup of the Knipex and Channellock pliers and you're right the Channellocks fulcrum are a fair amount closer to the cutting edge than the Knipex. I don't think its a big deal in a needle nose, only something I'd really be concerned about in a linesman plier or side cutters or something, but that's a data point in favor of Channellock.

It matters more if someone doesn't have combi/linesman on hand or even diagonal cutters and needs to use them in narrow or confined areas. You typically can't use a combi/lineman's or diagonal cutter in those situations.

> The E318s don't have crosshatching, which is clearly evident in the video you posted so I don't know why you keep saying they do.

Refer to Channellock's website here. The pair he received is either an old batch or revision or simply had the crosshatching missed. I have E318's (in dipped and code blue) and they have Crosshatching and I've checked it over multiple pairs. I couldn't find another E318 Youtube video but you can see that both the CB and the non-CB version have it such as this

These might be some more "advanced items" but I have found them all to be of extreme usefulness and not too expensive to justify. Note: Where provided Amazon links are for reference only and I have no financial interest in the sale of the item listed.

- A set of ball-tipped metric hex key wrenches. The ball end allows you to get around obstacles and still rotate the fastener. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10946-Balldriver-L-wrenches-1-5-5mm/dp/B0006O4AEC Note: You'll only need, IIRC, three sizes but the set is still cheaper than buying the individual keys.

- A clean popsicle stick works great to "scrape" or swipe the occasional pre-print and post-print drip from a hot nozzle's orifice and cannot damage the metal. Actually a suggested tool by a lot of industrial hot melt adhesive system companies for the reasons I just stated.

- A small open topped container, about the size of a kids sand pail, for all the waste support, brim, raft and skirt material you'll be generating. I happened to have a clean empty plastic 1 gallon OJ jug and cut off the top where the jug started to narrow leaving me a 8" tall "bucket". Small enough to keep next to the machine because tiny bits of PLA...

- A small magnifying glass, good for layer quality inspections.

- A small AA powered penlight, I had one anyway on hand anyway but was surprised at how often I needed it around the printer that it now lives there full time.

- A plastic paint scraper since I do lots of technical prints that leave large amounts of random first layer support spaghetti stuck all over the build plate. https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-4718-3-Piece-Plastic/dp/B001SBJIA8 (I know for a fact this set I've linked to is soft enough not to scratch the PEI coating. You actually only want the smallest scraper in the set, the other two can be used for what ever but at $2.99 per set even if you never need the larger ones it's no big loss.)

- A small table-top digital humidity and temperature gauge to monitor your printer's local "micro-climate". At the beginning I found that there was some temp/humidity related print quality issues where I had first set up my printer that forced me to relocate it and the only way I figured that out was by using this gauge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/

- Good quality needle nose pliers with some grip to them. The pliers Prusa included with the printer are, IMNSHO, junk. I have both of these and am satisfied with both:

Good: https://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-378M-Profile-Electronic-Serrated/dp/B004UNFK58

Better (and cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPHEW2/

Edit: just realized I didn't explicitly state that I was using the mp select mini. But yes, that is my printer

I realize this isn't a realistic option for many, but I've had fantastic success printing out minis with simplify3d. Super easy to use, and with some decent tweezer pliers removing any excess material in those nooks and crannies is extremely easy. Here is what I printed out an hour ago, just after removing the bulk of the supports.

Not necessarily an anvil, but yeah a solid metal table would be pretty useful. You could use stone or hardwood though, if it was a worktable you didn't mind getting scorched. EDIT- this guy is just using a workbench vise with a small flat area for working on stuff like this. A quick google shows a decent one for $50. Leather welding gloves (last I checked, haven't had to buy new ones in nearly 10 years,) were $10 for good ones, $6 for cheap ones. Shipping is expensive on these but you should be able to find a local welding store or even someplace like Home Depot. Needlenose pliers aren't very expensive either.

I keep a small bag in my main bag that I can clip to my belt. I mostly use it when I know I'm going to be working in a panel for a while but in general this covers 75% of my needs. Here's the bag.

Here is what I keep in it.

Wire Stripper / Needle Nose I haven't had these for too long but I really like them.

Small meter I like this one for a lot of reasons. One is that will fit in the bag and is good enough to use under 480 in my opinion.

Voltage Detector The meter has non-contact voltage detection, but I like this one more.

Crescent Wrench I like this one because it also has the monkey wrench on it so it's good for tightening air lines from time to time. Though in reality I don't use that feature much.

A couple larger screwdrivers #2 phillips and a flat head big enough to open panels easily.

Controls Screwdriver For terminals and such. I sometimes use the ones with the rotating end.

Flashlight These are not the best, but they're cheap and work as a penlight and they can do area illumination with a magnetic base.

I have seconds (and in the case of the meter and flashlights - a higher quality version) of all these in my main bag, but I mostly use this little pouch.

I have to recommend these because I have beat on a pair for years. They still have great grip and are very smooth.

http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-3017-8-Inch-Long-Plier/dp/B000189FGQ/

I commented that I liked them before on reddit and an employee messaged me saying they enjoyed my story and they loved working for channellock.

get a dedicated pair of flush side cutters like this
NEVER use them on metal, make this pair only for plastic. you will always have a nice clean cutting edge for everything from removing supports to snipping filament

also get a long thin needle nose pliers, again plastic only

then maybe a pin vise and a cheap set of drill bits if you do a lot of functional prints for cleaning out bolt/pin holes quicker.

That's quite easy to fix honestly.

.Cut the power in the house and work with daylight.

.Remove the plate with a flat screwdriver (to unclip it)

.Unscrew the switches from the plastic box in the wall

.Gently pull, you should have access to the wires

.If you have 3 wires by switch, just reverse positions for 1-2 and leave L as it is.

.Screw it back in, and put the plate back on.

This would help you tremendously

I have stripped my fair share of screws, mainly because I'm impatient, and not because my tools suck- I use a nice set of Torx screws that are proper metric sized.

What I've found very helpful, and recommend to anyone having trouble stripping screws, is to get a pair of VamPLIERS - which allow you to grip a stripped screw and remove it pretty easily. I've used these more times than I'd like to admit. So far there isn't a stripped screw that I haven't been able to remove with these.

Yeah. Putting a lock on that fence will keep out pretty much anyone that doesn't have the sophisticated equipment required to get through defenses like that. What could somebody possibly do to vandalize a place without getting inside the actual building?

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

• Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  
• Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  
• Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  
• Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  
• A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  
• Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  
• Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)
  
  Other generic stuff:
  
  
• Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  
• Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  
• Bic lighter
  
• Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)

These vampire pliers are pretty handy, though a bit expensive.

You can also get a set of screw extractors at Harbour Freight, but that screw might be too small.

The dremel slot method might be the best suggestion in this situation.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-3079-Combination-Stripping-Electricians/dp/B005G111FQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538326259&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=milwaukee+stripers&dpPl=1&dpID=41mK6dmyUiL&ref=plSrch

Those strippers are pretty awesome. I also have a pair of catapults for panel work or Big JBs etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50673-8-Inch-Socket-15-Piece/dp/B005VMVEV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396842&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-100P-8MD-8-Piece-Premium-Screwdriver/dp/B002NH5F30/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50661-4-Inch-Socket-27-Piece/dp/B002O18PLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=jh%2BWilliams%2Bset&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-9K-00-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=knipex+pliers+set&qid=1565396944&s=gateway&sprefix=knipex+plier&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2569-Master-Impact-43Piece/dp/B00MPQ88RY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sunex+1%2F2+impact+socket+set&qid=1565396983&s=gateway&sprefix=sunex+&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-231C-Super-Duty-Impact-Wrench/dp/B0002SRM3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=ingersoll+rand+1%2F2+impact&qid=1565397014&s=gateway&sprefix=inger&sr=8-6

https://www.strictlytoolboxes.com/tool-vault-56-11-drawer-tool-cabinet.html

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-Stinger-Flashlight-Steady-Charger/dp/B0015ZO8VG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=streamlight+flashlight&qid=1565397140&s=gateway&sprefix=streamli&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Filter-Socket-Adjustable-Removal/dp/B07MGR24BP/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=oil+filter+socket+set&qid=1565397258&s=gateway&sprefix=oil+filter&sr=8-17


https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL4H80/ref=sxin_3_sxwds-bovbs?keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&pd_rd_i=B000KL4H80&pd_rd_r=cb4b628e-131d-4fcc-b250-1d9ff8c30f7a&pd_rd_w=dmdpJ&pd_rd_wg=pkYb4&pf_rd_p=eba0c0ae-19a3-4eb8-a600-1bc2a745bcd0&pf_rd_r=DDV7A2667PM9STRGS9T6&qid=1565397296&s=gateway&sprefix=cdi



Buy this list and stay away from tool trucks. Good luck

Here's some essentials that I recommend picking up. They're all a bit pricey, but it's better to buy one pricey set and never buy another than buy ten cheap sets.

Screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Lasertip-6-Pieces/dp/B007NLPJN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501608941&sr=8-1&keywords=wera+6-piece+screwdriver+set

Pliers: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-9K-00-80-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=sr_1_9?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609025&sr=1-9&keywords=knipex

Drill/Driver: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XPH102-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Driver-Drill/dp/B01L84A470/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609078&sr=1-2&keywords=makita+drill or https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DCD771C2-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Compact/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609100&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+drill

Here's the cheapest alternative I can find.

Stanley 84-096 5-Inch Needle Nose Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IW50Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_RsRevb061Q26J
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IW50Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_RsRevb061Q26J

SE - Hip Flask & Funnel Set - Stainless Steel, 8 oz, 2 Pc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SB5MYS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_txRevb0Y2W1S5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SB5MYS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_txRevb0Y2W1S5

(sorry for being a smart ass, best of luck to ya)

Not large ones... haha .

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-Ultra-Precise-Tweezer-Nose-Pliers-Serrated/dp/B000FOJLEM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404346078&sr=8-4&keywords=micro+pliers

Something like those guys, I love them for repairing phones and such. Very precise.

Edit: Ouch, I didnt mean to suggest anything that would get me downvoted.. I assumed everyone here would know not to use a full size set of pliers on anything on a motherboard.

I use these electronics pliers and they work great.

You can also get straight snap ring pliers. Don't get the universal ones with multiple heads, the head just turns when you try to turn the pill.

I've had no luck with extractors. However, I love my Vampire plier.

Pretty good for a first go!

As far as improving from here, there are definitely some low hanging fruit.

• I see some fingerprints (far left shoulder pad for example). You could get a fancy paint handle from GW or just buy some large corks and stick it the base with blue tac so you can handle your models without touching any of the painted areas. If it happened during glueing then it’s just a matter of using less glue and keeping your hands clean or maybe using tweezers or pliers (I use these).
  
• You could dry brush a medium grey (GW Dawnstone for example) onto the base to bring out the texture there.
  
• Consider painting the orange on top of a base colour with better coverage to avoid the black showing through (GW Mournfang Brown, Mephiston Red or Jokearo Orange)
  
• A black or dark brown wash over the metals areas would be a very simple way to improve those areas (GW Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade for example).
  
• A matt varnish would knock down the glossiness a lot. Most people prefer a matt finish for their miniatures but if the glossy look is what you were going for ignore this one.

Protip: You can trim down the links from Amazon to get rid of all the extra garbage, just delete everything after the section after "dp". So for your second link above, you'd have "/dp/B06XXNP6M8" and leave it there.

You can actually eliminate everything before the /dp/ as well...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXNP6M8/

Apparenly Amazon also has its own link shortener, so if you need it even more slim, you can drop down to this:

https://amzn.com/B06XXNP6M8/

But ironically, when they expand that URL, they add garbage to the end of it 🤣

(These are all the same product as your second link.)

You mean these?

http://imgur.com/gallery/Jmu5C

Those are some binding/terminal blocks I made awhile back for testing speakers/drivers, etc. I can plug in cables with banana plugs on them, and clip on to the terminals to test different drivers, etc.

There's some led tape/strip lighting under the top most shelf, and a clamp on adjustable led light with magnifying glass built in. I can swing it in when I need, and out of the way otherwise.

I think the magnifying lamp is this one: https://amzn.com/B00UW2IRJ2

The diagonal flush cutters are:
https://amzn.com/B000IBSFAI

and the small nose pliers are:
https://amzn.com/B0006N73BU

The little parts boxes are from a Bosch organizer:
https://amzn.com/B00BD5G6X6

There's cheaper options, but I had the organizer and extra bins so I used those.

Fire extinguisher is a Kidde ~3lb standard fire extinguisher. An absolute must imo.

The drawers are great, when I'm properly using them I can keep the desk clutter free.

Generally when I'm working on a project, if it's going to take longer than an hour or so, I put all the parts needed into bins, organize/label all the components. Then get started on the build. I have a small whiteboard to the left of the desk that I can pin up schematics, and take any quick notes while I'm cussing myself for forgetting something obvious.

I love these 6 & 1 combo pliers from Milwaukee

I was just trying to remove some one way screws myself, but many of the solutions listed here were out of the question.

Ended up getting these: Vampliers

Silly name, but worked like magic, even on the tightest ones. The grip is phenomenal.

• Laptop
  
  
• Logitech MX Rechargeable Bluetooth Mouse
  
• Communication Cables (USB Serial Converter, DB9 Gender Changers, AB Cables, Ethernet of various sizes, RJ45 Coupler, etc.)
  
• Wiha SlimLine Kit
  
• Fluke 789 Processmeter
  
• Test lead Kit
  
• Voltage Sniffer
  
• 5-Port Switch
  
• Wire Stripers
  
• Wiha Dikes
  
• Needle Nose
  
• Fold-up Allen Wrench
  
• Klein Tool Bag
  
• Swiss Army Backback
  
• Electrical Tape, Fuses for Field Install and Multimeter Spares, Surge Protector, USB Drives with Automation Software, Fold-up TV Dinner Table, Fold-up Chair with Cushion, Notebook, Business Cards, Pens, Sharpies, Phone, Hardhat w/ Headlamp, Safety Glasses, Electrically Insulated Steel Toed Boots.
  
  
  
  This is setup is mainly for project startups and it would probably change if I was in more of a service engineer role.

For next time, these can save some hassle

http://www.amazon.com/Vampire-Professional-Tools-International-VT-001/dp/B006YJKAPQ

"Knipex is probably overkill"

that said:

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-9K-00-80-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1478819393&sr=1-1&keywords=knipex+set

)

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-J2078CR-All-Purpose-Crimper/dp/B016XE2CHA/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1466034915&sr=8-18&keywords=klein+tools

What about something like this that includes the wire strippers in the needlenose pliers?

Mike Pekovich (of Fine Woodworking Fame) recommends these: https://tltools.com/collections/unscrew-ums/products/the-handy-one-s-set it is a set that includes 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 7/32" and 1/4" cost is around $45 shipped. There are also screw extractor pliers: https://www.amazon.com/Vampire-Professional-Tools-International-Extraction/dp/B006YJKAPQ/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3/137-6896628-8687019?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006YJKAPQ&pd_rd_r=a79551ea-8192-11e9-a9ce-814cf5dd9e62&pd_rd_w=WXdu0&pd_rd_wg=IPjbd&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZPHHEVMHF3DGR8B47NQZ&psc=1&refRID=ZPHHEVMHF3DGR8B47NQZ (regular) or https://www.amazon.com/VMPVT-001-5-Mini-Screw-Extraction-Pliers/dp/B00LMMU2HG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=screw+extractor+pliers&qid=1559080243&s=hi&sr=1-3 (mini)

As a DIY'er who does electrical work about half a dozen times a year, I'd agree with this. That said, I prefer the multi-tools that are a good set of pliers above all other functions (like these guys). You might give up on some other function, but you don't want to chimp on the plier aspect. IMHO

I use these for a lot of stuff. They now have a coated pair that is in my cart as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Vampire-Professional-Tools-International-Extraction/dp/B006YJKAPQ

Amazon has a bunch of different bent-nosed pliers available

This is what OP bought

If you want to get fancy, you can get these

Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_J1FzwbNS0QZF7

Channellock 3017 8-Inch Long Nose Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000189FGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Q2FzwbCXDPFPC

Klein Tools 1010 Long-Nose Multi-Purpose Tool, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302WX/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_B4Fzwb2HE7B9V

Knipex Tools 9K 00 80 94 US Cobra Combination Cutter and Needle Nose Pliers Set (4 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fe8KAbMFWEJRA

This would meet my needs, what do you think?

EDIT: what do you guys think of gearwrench pliers?

GearWrench 82108 7 Piece Standard Pliers Master set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZXY80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_th8KAbG67W1CQ

Hakko's Long Nose Pliers!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBCM456/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1493770245&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=knipex+4+piece&dpPl=1&dpID=51Vw2OygVXL&ref=plSrch

The knipex was actually a 4 pc set. For the price, maybe give it a shot

Try $29.97 with prime shipping.

r/DidntKnowIWantedThat

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-International-Vampliers-Portable-Extraction/dp/B006YJKAPQ?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B006YJKAPQ

Any tech without a set of these is asking for trouble

Below are links to everything on Amazon:

Crazy Ants Reel Rolling Tool Bag Pouch Professional Electricians Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0FN832/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OtgGzb838Y9H5

BXQINLENX 8 PCS Gundam Modeler Basic Tools Craft Set For Car Model Assemble Building(A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GH6B3Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_grgGzbFBB475F

Stanley 84-096 5-Inch Needle Nose Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IW50Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gtgGzb2XFXKT9

StarTech.com 7-Piece Precision Screwdriver Computer Tool Kit (CTK100P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001NYK16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0ugGzbMGHA2NQ

Dynamite 5 pc Metric Nut Driver Assortment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ4XPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rvgGzb3V9N7CK

NEEWER® Titanium Nitride TiNi Hex Driver Wrench 4 Piece Set 1.5mm/2mm/2.5mm/3.0mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7WgGzb3WEWHC0

Bondhus 12592 GorillaGrip Hex Tip Fold Up Tool with ProGuard Finish, 7 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00269YAIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zXgGzbJZRSBR6

There are also a few assorted items in there as well, standard scissors, small little brush(for getting dirt out of the quad in a crash), extra 12v power chord for my balance charger, small wrench(for propeller nuts), a couple extra small screw drivers. In the pouches: micro fiber cloth for fpv camera lens, zip ties and Velcro tape.

Get yourself a pair of Vampliers. It's a set of pliers that has a bite designed to remove stripped heads. They are expensive, but they do pay themselves back in the amount of time and sanity.

To mention some other homebrewing supplies and tools that haven't come up here:

• Copper Clad PCB Board for Manhattan or Dead Bug or Island Pad circuit construction.
  
• Perf Board for circuits involving many IC's or other 0.1"-spaced leads.
  
• A Solder Sucker, for clearing solder from perf-board
  
• Solder Wick, for removing solder from things that aren't plated holes.
  
• A cheapie Rotary Tool, for making isolation pads, cutting boards, rounding off edges.
  
• A decent multimeter - decent used to mean something in that $30-$50 range, but now even down in the sub-$20 range you're looking at plus/minus 0.5% accuracy for voltage measurements, which is good enough for most homebrew purposes. Whatever you do, get one with a continuity alarm! A $6 meter without one is a $6 waste of your money.
  
• A decent Soldering Iron. I spent years thinking I was bad at soldering, turns out I was bad at buying soldering irons. A 15W radioshack fixed iron with a fat tip will do you no good. The 50W adjustable pencil linked here it solid, though many people (myself included) prefer a soldering station
  
• A pair of fine need nose pliers and a flush cutter. Xuron is the name brand, but excelite or hakko or most others are fine.