Reddit mentions: The best pc game joysticks

This review applies directly to iPhone 6+, 7+, and 8+ devices, but is probably relevant for a wide array of devices. Lots of words follow. TL;DR: the triggers I bought are well made and add a lot to the gameplay. Combined with the grip case, it's an awesome combo, but the grip case is a bit wonky (D-pad doesnt work in all situations), and making everything fit requires a normal slip-cover case on the phone.


Folks,

Recently jumped down the rabbit hole and bought a set of L1R1 triggers and a grip case for my iPhone 6+. After having spent a few hours tweaking control settings, testing things in Training Mode (hurrah for that!), and then playing through a half dozen games or so, I thought I'd give a detailed review of these things, since there doesn't seem to be one on the sub yet, either for the triggers or for a grip case.

I got interested in the grip case before the triggers. Holding my phone was leading to cramps, and so I'd rigged up a little makeshift stand/grip out of some foam blocks, and figured I may as well just get a case. After shopping around on Amazon I settled on this case:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0769NK92M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

on the basis that it seemed a good compromise between cost and features. I was also shopping Prime-only; you can probably get this item cheaper if you're willing to wait a week or two for shipping.

Though I picked the case out before I decided I wanted triggers, a quick scan of the Q&A suggested that it was compatible with them. It is trigger-compatible, sort of, but we'll get to that in a minute.

Speaking of triggers, there are about a half-dozen different designs or so, and I suspect that there are build-quality variations within the same design family, as different companies rush to make them more cheaply. I had watched a few YouTube videos and figured the best design was the one with the cam-actuated clamp on the back of the device. I chose pretty much at random, mostly trying to pick something under 10 bucks that still looked well-designed. Settled on these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C8ZZT6H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Note the slip case on my phone in the photo above. When I said above that the grip and triggers sort of worked together, that's the rub: this combination will not work without a case. And given the variety of cases, it might not work with all cases. It works with mine (a Magpul Field Case), but I think that's a matter of luck. If the case wasn't there to make the phone sit higher in the grip and the trigger sit higher relative to the phone, the back arms on the triggers wouldn't clear the grip case. The spring tension of the case and the foam padding sort of hold the phone in place, but pushing down on the trigger pushes the entire phone down, and levers the triggers out of position, causing them to stop working. Note that the triggers themselves work just fine with or without a case, but if you want to combine triggers and grip, you're going to need a slipcover case on your phone.

The Triggers:

There seems to be a lot of disagreement as to the quality of the triggers in general, their usefulness, etc. In part, that's probably because there seem to be a few different designs of trigger. As I mentioned above, I sought out one of the cam-locked, spring-actuated designs because it seemed the most sensible and stable. I think I may have lucked out, because these triggers are quite well built, have a smartly designed mechanism, and should last for a long time without wearing out.

The body of the trigger is made of ABS plastic, which is quite durable. There's no issue with flash or jagged mold lines, they're smooth and came from good molds. The outer arms have a non-slip sticker on the inside, opposite the cam-lock mechanism, that helps keep the triggers firmly in place. When using a phone case, the cam arms might be unncessesarty to hold the trigger in place; they firmly clip onto mine without any issue. The plastic is thick enough to savely bend as it slides over thicker phones and cases. Note that one trigger will sit on top of the power button or volume button. The design of the triggers, however, is such that the force of pushing the trigger mostly goes straight into the phone, not onto the button. You can accidentally push the power/volume button by pressing the middle of the trigger device, directly on top of the button, but normal use shouldn't be a problem. With a case on the phone this is even less of an issue.

The trigger mechanism is six pieces. The upper arm is the trigger itself, which you depress to actuate the mechanism. This levers the contact arm and its attached pad downward against the screen, against the pressure of two springs that offer good resistance. The interface between the two moving pieces is wrapped in what looks like fiberglass tape, presumably to make everything slide nicely and improve durability, as the mechanism won't wear out from plastic-on-plastic rubbing.

They won't survive being stepped on, but if you take care of them (they come with a case!) they should last long enough for you to get your ten bucks' worth out of them. Add in the fact that they're (at least in my opinion) a huge boost to gameplay---with or without a grip case---and I have to say I'm very happy with them.

Speaking of gameplay, the big thing here is that it's now totally possible to run, aim, and shoot all at the same time, without having to worry about getting carpal tunnel syndrome from using claw grip. (Seriously, I tried it for a few days. My wrists. Ouch.)

One of the first things you'll notice when using the triggers is that different combat situations make it more instinctive/easier to use the left or right trigger. In close quarters, the left trigger is superior, as your right hand is busy with large aim inputs, jumping/crouching/leaning, etc. Precise trigger pulls are especially harder with the right trigger when you're circle strafing. Meanwhile, the left hand is stable because the left thumb is always planted on the screen to control movement, and so the left index finger can be more precise.

On the other hand, when sniping or in long range combat, the right trigger just feels natural because most games use R1 as the primary fire button. When you have time to set up your shots, I feel like I get better reaction time and fast-tapping from the right trigger because right-handed. Sorta makes sense. But there's a notable deficit in close-in fights as even with a grip case, the need to lift your thumb to continue to pan the camera, etc just makes things clumsy.

In the end I settled on using L1 for fire and R1 for ADS; my preference would be to have both triggers be fire buttons and have some other method of activating ADS (3D Touch, maybe?), but the extra stability in close quarters is worth the slightly unnatural feel, which will of course get better with time. You could also just run both triggers to fire and keep ADS as a right-thumb function, which I've tried, but honestly the ability to ADS without moving your thumb once you zero in on a target is too good to go without.

Note that the two fire buttons are not the same. One of them will not let you adjust your aim if you are holding it down. The other will. Make sure you place the correct one underneath the trigger, or you will not be able to circle-strafe or even use automatic fire effectively.

The Case:

The grip case is not quite as well-made as the triggers. It's not bad, it has a few smart eatures, and it does improve gameplay, but its nowhere near as big of a boost as the triggers.

In terms of materials, it seems mostly to be made out of polystyrene or some other plastic more brittle than ABS, with the exception of the D-pad and it's armature, which are made out of some kind of softer, translucent plastic. The D-pad itself is pretty fragile looking; though it's theoretically possible to swap it to the right side of the device, I wouldn't want to put enough force on it to pry it out of its slot. The slot does give the D-pad a small degree of vertical adjustability in terms of where it lands on your screen, but horizontal placement is non-adjustable. Resistance comes from a simple plastic spring; there really isn't much centering force. But the strength of the D-pad comes from the fact you now have a much more stable grip while moving, because your thumb has actual physical resistance to sliding too far. Combined with the L1 trigger to fire, its game-changing.

You can use the case without the D-pad, and I might actually start doing that, as the D-pad interferes with the operation of parachutes and vehicles. It's great on foot, but you have to flip the arm out of the way every time you get in a car because there's no way to relocate the steering controls. If you use Mode 2 (single joystick), you can sort of steer, and the boost button lets you accellerate, but it's sub-optimal.

The fact that you have to use a slip case on your phone in order to make the triggers work unfortunately means that, at least with my case/phone combo, the slots in the side of the grip that allow for power and audio cable access no longer line up properly. The headphone jack is completely obstructed if the home button is on the left side (which I find more comfortable), and regardless of orientation, the power jack is partially obstructed. I used a razor to cut away some plastic to make room for the power cable.

Hi,

Okay, as you're only starting out with flight sims, I would recommend using your mouse and keyboard to control your plane at first to see how much you enjoy it. To get started I'd recommend using the FSX tutorials to help you learn the basics - these are found under the missions tab when you first launch the simulator. These should teach you the bare essentials of flying a plane and the basic keyboard controls - if you need some extra help with controls, here's a PDF to help.

After completing these tutorials you should have a feel for whether or not you enjoy flight simming enough to upgrade your equipment, because although the mouse and keyboard are OK to control with, they're fairly inconvenient in the long run. If you decide to invest in some better equipment I've got recommendation I'd like to make. Using things like this is going to make playing flight sim a lot more interesting and fun.

Speedlink Black Widow Flightstick - This product is great for starting out. It's pretty cheap and has everything you'll need to make flight simming more fun. It has a convenient throttle control, a good few buttons and will definitely last you a long time.

Now if you've got some extra money, rudder pedals are another great way to make simming easier, but these tend to come in at quite high prices.

As for what you shouldn't do, there really isn't much to say here. The great thing about flight sim is that you can fly a plane in any way you want without consequence. Do whatever you want to do, if you want to go for realism and professionalism then that's fine, and if you want to go for crashing and messing about then that's fine too; but I'm going to assume like most other simmers you'll prefer the first choice.

To learn and practice new techniques and upgrade your realism, Youtube is a great way to to so. There a hundreds of channels out there with tutorials and training videos to help you out, I'll put a few of these below as this is how I learned.

FSXGenius Flight School - These videos are very informative and there's plenty of content to keep you learning for a while.
Belynz - Not really a tutorial series, but watching this guy is genuinely entertaining and you will most likely learn something along the way.
FlyFSX - Not really a video but another great learning technique.

I'm sure they do. However, N64 emulation itself is hit or miss because... of technical reasons I don't fully understand. You might be better off sticking with your actual N64, from what I hear. I was not a big fan of that console, mostly due to the controller being weird AF and the texture compression looking like total ass.

That said, I oddly couldn't find any Bluetooth-connected N64 controllers, but I found this wired one for $11. I only ever used wired controllers with mine. They work fine. Well, the generic Super NES controllers I had (I had a 2-pack) worked fine.

Anyway, it was a lot of fun, but there's a lot of metadata to tangle with. For some reason, people are fine sharing ROMs (which is technically illegal), but sharing ROMs with good metadata is some huge taboo. I remember there was a controversial fork of Recalbox or RetroPie (the other one) where it would download ROM packs from a private server, but if you tried to export them, it would run some script that would fry your RPi. I don't know how valid that is, though. Once I heard that I backed away slowly from the project. Never tried it. I forget the name.

So, if you do Pi, you probably know a bit about Linux. How Linux isn't an OS, it's a kernel, and a Linux distro is just the Linux kernel and a bunch of software that goes with it. Well, by the same token, Recalbox and RetroPie are sort of the same thing. They're both combining RetroArch with EmulationStation on top of a headless Raspbian, but RetroPie has more options if you dig deep, and updates more frequently. Recalbox has more options in its main menu, but fewer under the hood, and updates less frequently. They both have different splash screens. Recalbox is definitely better for beginners, while more advanced users will love RetroPie's more advanced options and deeper customization.

Lastly, if this kind of thing interests you, I'd recommend checking out or maybe subscribing to ETA PRIME on YouTube. He taught me a lot of what I know about both platforms and got me into Raspberry Pi a couple years ago. I don't follow him anymore, but he's good people. DrewTalks is another one.

I have recommended this to many people, and I honestly think it is the best set up on the market right now: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522886090&sr=8-3&keywords=thrustmaster+t16000m

I see some people saying to get World Traffic. I think you would have a better time doing something like VATSIM than using World Traffic.

Planes I would recommend:

Flight Factor A320 - Pricey, but it pays you can see the high quality you are paying for. In my opinion, it is the best plane on the market in any flight sim.

Flight Factor 757 Extended - Another one of my favorites. I enjoy having the passenger and cargo variants, I am super into flying cargo runs.

Few others things, other than planes:

If you fly in the US, KSLC by ShortFinal is an amazing payware scenery. ShortFinal also known as MisterX on the forums, is, in my opinion, the best scenery maker in X-Plane.

Sometimes the best things for this game are free. If you have the storage space, and you think your game can handle it, download Ortho4XP and get some ortho scenery.

If I think of anything else I will add another comment

There are really only three reasons to build a stick, and short-term cost isn't one of them:

1. Build quality. A custom stick can use an all-metal case or even wood, both of which tend to be more durable than plastics found in many popular commercial sticks.
   
   
2. Parts. Custom sticks are generally very easy to modify, all of the hardware and PCBs can be replaced easily. Couple this with a good case and it's not uncommon for your arcade stick to last multiple generations of consoles, with just a PCB upgrade. Customs sticks allow you to use the hardware you prefer, the layout you prefer, and you can find PCBs that work on more systems than are usually available in retail sticks.
   
   
3. It's your own. You can not only customize the art, but the look of the stick itself. The best custom sticks are amazing pieces of art in their own right when the case, art, and hardware all complement each other. Many commercial sticks you can't change the art, and even for the few where that's possible, you are still stuck with the default case.
   
   Because of the first two reasons, a custom stick can be a great long-term investment, since a new PCB is much, much cheaper than a new high-quality stick.
   
   In the short-term though, it costs as much as a high end stick, especially if your case is all-metal or other high cost solutions.
   
   In your case I would recommend the new Mayflash sticks, like this one or something like the Qanba Drone.
   
   Both sticks you could upgrade with a little work, but are in any case good starter sticks. You might find them a little small or too light, and the parts aren't the highest quality, but it's probably best to start with one of these sub $100 options, then if you are enjoying stick a lot, move to a high end sanwa stick for ~$250.

I have a logitech 3d extreme, I pair it with this https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TWCS-Throttle-Controller-2960754/dp/B01L28LVUG and I'm very happy. I'm not sure what you mean by thrustmaster 16x I googled that and had no results.

I personally didn't really like strike suit zero, It just has no feeling of freedom for me just do mission A mission B mission C yeah you can kind of customize your loadout but I think the strengh of a spacegame should be your ability to go wherever you want.

So if you want a story driven game, kind of reminisent of halo but in spaceships get SSO.

If you want more freedom to say, mine, Trade/smuggle, Explore (99.x% of the systems have never been visited in ED), Pirate people/pcs, Bounty hunt pirates, join a faction/megapower and go to war get ED.

I played with just the logitech 3d for a while and it's good enough to let you know if you like it before spending more money for the full hotas. It's just kind of awkward flipping that little throttle around while pushing buttons with your fingers.

""I'm curious what I actually have to buy for Elite.""

Just start with Elite Dangerous, if you like it spend the additional 30 on Horizons it gives you access to engineers (Grindy upgrades for your ship) Planetary landings (only on non atmospheric planets, you can also bring a little buggy thing) Guardians (ship launched fighters, little NPC ships to protect you or you can pilot them yourself if you want)

After the 2.4 update which is mostly about thargoids (aliens that we are probably going to be fighting a lot) the next expansions will probably be another payment, I heard they have committed to a 10 year development cycle they kind of sell games as a service? If that makes sense, I'm happy to pay it assuming we keep getting new content.

And yes even with little time to play you'll still have a good time, it's not like you have to log on constantly it'll be there when you get back to it.

EDIT: also with horizons you can do passenger transport missions, basically haul rich people from A to B or maybe they want to do tourism and you go ABCDEFG. Pays well.

I love it, it got the feel down so well, the brand is 8bitdo, i just checked mines the SN30 Pro it got like really really good reviews from major sources so i got it and i can say it really is like using a snes controller and it's cheaper then a pro and has motion and all that. Only thing i noticed is it has a weaker vibration but i don't care much about that lol. There is a Super Famicon Version as well and different variations with grips and extra comfort options im pretty sure. Its a lot cheaper then the pro i got it for $30 i think so about half the price? I really like it its simple to set up and works really well. Sorry for the overly long comment! I actually got it cause when i visit my sister who's 13, she always wants to play overcooked 2 lol .

Edit: sorry to make this even longer. This is the one i have https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Controller-Classic-Joystick-Gamepad/dp/B078125QQ8

Looking it up i saw there are a lot of new variations that might be better for some people. I got big hands and it seems fine. I can see smaller hands having an issue pressing the offset start select buttons. But i don't think that's so bad. (I paid less than it sells on Amazon, idk if it went up or its cheaper else where)

Hey, bit late, but if you're still looking at these sticks, one of the newest "best cheap sticks" is the Mayflash F300 Elite. It's basically an F300 with sanwa parts already installed which is nice. I've had mine for a few weeks now and it's held up fine. It's pretty compact too which is nice for travel (which I currently am), but not quite as heavy as I'd like. About the same weight as the Qanba Drone (the same "tier" of fight stick) but with better parts. The standard Drone uses Qanba's own buttons and stick though and the Elite is all Sanwa.

If you can wait, they're making an F500 Elite as well, but I'm not sure when that's dropping! Your last, best bet is the EVO Drone on sale right now that comes with all Sanwa parts as well! It's really between those two in my opinion! Hope this helps!

https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Arcade-Stick-Android-Switch/dp/B07CXJ77DT/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mayflash+500&qid=1554996929&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://qanbausa.com/evo-drone/

Whats your current specs?

I'd say avoid VR initially, I personally think it is the better overall experience but its a bit tough to learn DCS in and costs more overall in terms of hardware and performance.

So for under $1k budget, I'd get something like this if you can fit it in your space, or you could spend a bit more and get the [warthog]
(https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N77385WVH3Q2D79PYPY2) which is a great setup, just no pedals.

Then, trackir or Open track for sure. And yes, you described how it works but its not a 1:1 head turn, and you can change the sensitivity. I don't really move my head more than 15 degrees or so.

Then I'd suggest buying the F/A-18, its a good mix of difficulty and capability.

After that, I'd go for the bottle neck in your system, but I dunno your specs. I'd suggest a 2070 super if you can afford it, or see if you can pick up some decent components over at /r/hardwareswap

After you've got some hours and feeling like you need more, maybe start saving for a VR headset, I'd suggest the index, but I've heard great things about the rift-s. Odessy + on a budget if need be.

The X56 is a bit expensive for what it is, and has dubious quality where you either get a stick that works for five years or that breaks after a few days. Supposedly the quality got better when Saitek got bought out, but I don't know how much I trust that.

On the other hand, the T16000M HOTAS is a well-proven stick and throttle combo. It has the same Hall sensors in the stick that the more expensive Warthog stick uses and has a good amount of buttons and hats that it can be used for a variety of aircraft. It is also a twist stick so you can use it for rudder control, and the throttle has a set of paddles that you can use as axis for things like zoom, brakes, rudder, or whatever else you might need.

TL;DR I'd recommend the T16000M HOTAS. And with the money you're saving from the X56 you could pick up TrackIR 5 if you don't already have it.

There's also this pack that comes with the Thrustmaster rudder pedals which are a good quality, and the pack is still less expensive than the X56 by a decent amount. I've also seen this pack on sale down to 150USD so if you're patient you could save a bit of money on it as well.

I don't know what exactly your budget is but it's also worth noting that the Warthog HOTAS tends to go on sale around the Black Friday to Xmas timeframe and you can often find it for 300USD. It's worth noting with this that the Warthog has no axis able to be used for rudders so you would need to buy rudder pedals from somewhere.

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| ▶ **Make the game a reality. **Getting J-PEIN means you are in the best position to make you feel as if you were sitting in a real cockpit. Equipment in the correct position will make you feel like you are in a real situation.

| ▶ **Make your surroundings comfortable. **Getting J-PEIN means you are in the clean and fixed environment that won't interfere with the game. Let the big appliance get away from your desk. Heavy and strong mount frame will stably hold your appliance on the optimal place.

· Outstanding stability. Heavy and strong mount frame stably hold your appliance on the optimal place.

· Aluminum Body frame with anodized surface and Steel brackets with powder coated surface.

· Seamlessly adjust in height (+300mm~-300mm) and position back and forth(80mm~300MM).

· Install or Remove simply in seconds with 91N force clamp.

· Exceptional compatibility with game control devices such as Thrustmaster T16000M FCS, Thrustmaster TWCS Throttle, Thrustmaster Warthog, Logitech X55/X56, Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ V 1.5, Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas 4, Thrustmaster MFD Cougar, Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter etc.

· The supplied multipurpose brackets can apply the desk mount to the shape of your game appliance.

· Instruction Guide: https://cafe.naver.com/hico123/5521

· Purchase information(US): https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Joystick-Throttle-Hand-Control-Game-Device/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

· Purchase information (Other Countries): https://www.peingear.com/shop

Edit: I added links to Amazon products that are pretty nice and fit into your budget, if none of these work or you wanted advice on finding similar ones on slightly cheaper budgets just let me know and I'd love to help out!

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I realize some people like them, and I mean no disrespect to u/MNLegoBoy but please do not get him a steam controller. I own one and me and everyone I've ever known who used one absolutely hated it.

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If he only has one monitor in his setup I would highly suggest getting him a decent second monitor to have discord, youtube, or whatever else he wants up while he plays. It can be really helpful and never hurts to have.

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If that doesn't work, you know about his setup...

and he uses a headset with a built-in mic I would suggest getting him this microphone and this interface. Even though they're cheap they're more than good enough and make people feel more legit because they're more like a streamer setup.

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and he really likes his headphones/has really nice headphones but doesn't have a headphone stand or mount for him to keep his headphones on and keep his desk organized.

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and he's into fighting games or older arcade games you could get him a fighting stick (be careful on this one, if he doesn't have room or likes using his KBM I wouldn't suggest it. It might also help to get one on a higher budget.)

> How much better is having a joystick for flying in these types of games? I have honestly never used a joystick for a PC game, so I really have no clue what it's like.

First, I spent several hundred hours flying exclusively with a joystick in both Bf3 and Bf4 and loved it, even topped national leaderboards for a while a while and was pretty alright-- that said, flying with m+kb is objectively better if what you care about is maximizing your potential. While I find joystick flying way more enjoyable, the fact is that flying in the battlefield series is *very simplistic, and using a joystick means sacrificing the far superior accuracy you get from using a mouse.

> I see various joysticks on the market, some are EXPENSIVE.

And you don't need ANY of those expensive joysticks for a game like battlefield. I would very much recommend you start off with something simple and cheap like: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Extreme-Pro-Precision-Joystick/dp/B00CJ5FPTA

I can't recommend this stick enough for the price. Unless you're going to be playing actual flight sims that recquire a full HOTAS setup, this is what you'll want to cut your teeth on.

Buy Nice or Buy Twice

BUT if your not sure this is a hobby you'll be into for the next ten years, IDK, I used a hotas x (40 dollars) for a long time with this and DCS and warthunder, I had to use joy2key though for IL2 to create modifier buttons, i did this so I could use my 1 hat for 4 different functions. DCS has this ability in game with their control setup.

Before you get any sticks or whatever, get TrackIR if you don't already have a head tracking setup, VR is also another option, but some people find it lacking currently with the lowered graphically fidelity or you may just get sick from it. Track IR is cheaper then VR by ALOT also.

You can get Natural Points TrackIR (get it with the LED Pro Clip, the hat clip is good but your hat brim will cut off your reflectors alot if you look around too far, with the LED you never loose tracking)

there's also cheaper tracking solutions that use ps3 eye cams and freeware software, checkout Delan Clip or Track Hat

If you know your going to be sticking around, go for the good stuff.

Get the Virpil VPC T-50cm grip and base with the desk mount. Not only will your shoulders thank you in the long run by being in a more natural position, you can use this as a center stick or side stick setup, they have a desktop version (Warbird BRD) coming out next month that is similiar to VKBs gunfighter which is a desktop or you have to mount it yourself

Video of Virpil MongoosT-50 Grip and Base/Gimbal with VKB Rudders and Warthog Throttle:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WG4ifXUSPFk
https://imgur.com/67Kcavt
https://imgur.com/S05zjtM
https://virpil.com/images/blog/announcements/mt50cm/VPCMT-50CM_01.jpg

For Pedals, VKB T-Flights are great and accurate but no toe brakes (a real pain in the ass for german ww2 planes, but in IL2 bos you can treat them like russian planes anyway with differential breaking for the most part, i use the brake lever for braking in Il-2)


also can recommend MFG Crosswinds(these are more like real rudder pedals and feature toe brakes)
http://mfg.simundza.com/products

for a throttle, well the only "nice" throttle is the warthogs but thats about 10 years old now, but still pretty good, i hear some of the wiring can got loose and break off though a couple of years after use

Wait for Virpils throttle (comes out next month) which also mount to the desk mounts (the warthog does aswell with a plate adaptor they sell)
https://virpil.com/images/2018/02/06/MT-50Final_01.jpg

or you could thrustmasters new cheaper throttle
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TWCS-Throttle-Controller-2960754/dp/B01L28LVUG

Flying with dual joysticks (and pedals) feels awesome! I got a T16000m FCS plus a T16000m FCS Flight Pack and only use the sticks and the pedal right now

I am gonna configure my setup in a way that I can switch from hosas to hotas when I am not in combat to be able to fly around more relaxed. It should be pretty easy to set up if I play around with the Target software some more.

The first time setting up dual joysticks was pretty tedious. I used TheNOOBIFIER1337's Playlist and the several reddit posts as an inspiration and finally decided to set them up more or less like in this video
To keep my desk uncluttered and my KB/M close I made a setup like this one!. Here are some more Images.

Let me preface this with saying I think you should just get a PS4 controller because it's best at that price range. That being said, I can kind of see why maybe you'd want to get a cheap stick. Maybe you aren't sure you really wanna use one, so don't want to commit $200 and you'd like to try it first, which seems relatively reasonable.

You won't find one for less than $50 though, but for $55 there's https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-Switch/dp/B019MFPLC0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 which at least exists. It isn't going to be great, but it's at least an arcade stick and even though it isn't high quality or anything it's going to feel like any other stick from the standpoint of the layout. So if you've never used a stick and just want to try one to see if you like it I think that's probably the best you can do.

Again though, I think just use a pad, there's nothing wrong with it, they work for other games as well, and it's cheaper and wireless.

The Mayflash F300 is super cheap and really durable and comes with great parts- nothing beats this within that price range and many people start off w/ the F300 due to these reasons; it's an overall great stick and has an amazing price.

The F300 has a newer version though which is the F500 it's about $30 more expensive, but the case itself is a bit bigger so it sits on the lap easier(also better for people with bigger hands) and has some metal plates on the top and bottom which means more durability and just feels more premium. It also includes more features than the F300 such as: a headphone jack(apple?) and a much easier artwork change option. Hopefully this helps, but you should also watch some YouTube vids about budget fightsticks as theres tons of content about those :)

Thank you. According to Mayflash the joystick & buttons are all Sanwa. Here’s the amazon page:

https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Arcade-Stick-Android-Switch/dp/B07CXJ77DT

I am pretty sure Amazon would not sell it if it was not genuine. There a quite a few positive reviews too (Amazon & YouTube). This stick was the perfect option for me, Sanwa components without modding for under £100. Only other options would be the Razer Panthera which is £200 and which I don’t like as it has the 8 way octagonal gate which is not standard in Japan.. or, the Qanba obsidian which is same price but has the standard Japanese square gate (which I am determined to get used to & have always used with my old Hori sticks). I will probably go Qanba in the future.

For now I will get a replacement from Amazon and hope for the best. The one I have at the moment, other than the popping and momentary button failure (which has happened once so far), has been good. I just don’t feel it is acceptable with Sanwa’s status & reputation. I understand the button issue may be a PCB problem- which won’t be Sanwa then (I guess that what you meant by it being Mayflash also). But the joystick issue is odd then, unlucky as it will be a Sanwa issue probably.. Maybe I should have just modded a fightstick, but then if any issues I could not return it, unless I paid double for the razer panthera or Qanba Dragon, which allow modding without voiding the warranty I think.

Anyhow getting into my fightsticks seriously now, so won’t give up. Back to my Hori’s until I resolve this issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2B9TW5

Get this too. It just came in the mail. Haven't played with it yet but I did toss it on my phone just to see how it feels, and it feels great. Makes it sooo much more comfortable to hold. Gonna have some fun when I get off work today.

Edit: just took a break from work to try out the grip + trigger combo and it's legit amazing. Had my best game yet, 37 kills, no deaths, and finished the match up with a nuke. Two other sets of triggers came too and the ones I linked you to originally are still my favorites.

I just got my 8Bitdo controller (https://www.amazon.com/8Bitdo-Wireless-Bluetooth-Controller-Joystick/dp/B078125QQ8) running on my Switch last night (I actually have the NES version, but I couldn't find that one easily on Amazon). The D-pad seems to be really good. I tried it out with Tetris and with Shovel Knight and it seems to work great. I got it because there are tons of games that need the D-pad in the primary position to be comfortable and easy to use. Might be worth checking it out.

Oh hey, I own that joystick! It's old and has huge problems with y-axis, but it was a trusty joystick.

Anyway, depending on how well you can touch type, you could even use KB/M.

I run dual stick - the attack 3 in left hand for thrusters, and in my right a t16000m, works great. (though my t16000m is green/grey, older version, the new one looks like it would be easier to use in VR, and is ED colored). You could also try buying the throttle and using your old joystick

We definitely will continue developing for motion controllers. A lot of people love them, and it's fun flying using "only" VR.

Some people might take issue with this, but I don't think there's any need for a fancy/expensive joystick. I do the vest majority of my flying with a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro. I wouldn't buy it for $60, but you can usually find them for $30-$40 (unless there's been a major price increase lately). The stick itself is solid, twist rudder works once you get used to it, and despite being pretty skimpy, the throttle paddle gets the job done. I can fly helicopters reasonably pricely too with it.

If you want a nicer throttle, and something slightly fancier, you can upgrade to the Thrustmaster Hotas.

Either of these joysticks will take you far in flightsim, and won't break the bank. I've found the sensor quality to be nicer than some of the pricier hotases like the x52 as well.

You say you want to use your own console and your own tv? You also say you want to use original hardware? Please explain more clearly!

Your cheapest bet is going to be to get a raspberry pi, and a cheap set of knock off controls like this


There are constantly free tvs on craigslist so go on the free section and check it out.


There are also free PCs once in awhile if you're patient so you could even take the raspberry pi out of the equation.


$100 is going to be tough to get a game going on original hardware though.


Decase the TV, build your machine out of plywood or cardboard and get playing.

I bought PEIN mounts on Amazon, kind of expensive, but great quality. They also come with the adapter plates and rails for a bunch of bases, including WarBrd. I think that they are out of stock right now (there were 6 and I bought 2), but they will probably restock any day now.

There are other options, but these were nice and easy to grab with Amazon 2 day shipping.

J-Pein The Steel Desk Mount for The Flight sim Game Joystick, Throttle and hotas Systems. Fully Support Almost All of Flight sim Game Hand-Control Devices. (not Include Game-Device) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_smU1CbG448BBW

You can contact the company directly through the HOTAS discord very easily if you waiting ask about restock.

For a nice all-in-one cheap solution, I'd go with the Elite F300.

If you're willing to mod, then I'd suggest a 8bitdo N30 w/ Sanwa buttons and Sanwa joystick. This will give you the same as above but with bluetooth and I'm pretty sure it will eliminate the need for an extra controller to get it hooked up to xbox/ps.

If you're looking for something bigger but still cheap, then I would have to suggest a used Razer Panethera or Hori RAP 4 on Amazon for about 100-130. The returns on Amazon Warehouse are usually people who tried the stick for an hour or two and didn't care for it. They're usually pretty damn nice and offer around 30-40% discount. I once got a "used" display shelf that still had all the protective material on and around the shelf, like the sticker kind that you can't re-apply... so I guess somebody literally just opened the box and said well nevermind and returned it.

I got a Raspberry Pi a couple years ago and set up RetroPie. You'll want to invest in a USB version of the old N64 controller for Ocarina of Time and Majora's Mask. It does take some technical know-how to get it all going, but once you do it's absolutely worth it. It's great for emulators all the way up to the N64. Once you cross into GameCube, the hardware can't quite cut it. The Raspberry Pi 3B+ is recommended, but I'd go with the 3A for the built-in wifi and bluetooth. It should run you about the same price as these new mini Retro consoles you can find. The difference being, you can choose your games and you're not limited to a singular console. You can run a Sega Genesis, NES, SNES, N64, PS One, and others all in one little box.

It's not for everybody, but it's a pretty sweet setup if you can do it.

It's this: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=4NCFNXYZ4ONU&keywords=t16000m&qid=1563283031&s=gateway&sprefix=T16%2Caps%2C239&sr=8-4

It's a very good starter system not to expensive but very well made. It was my first Hotas :)

But since Variolamajor wants to sell his warthog i recommend u talk to him first b/c the warthog is way better. If it's to expensive just write me a PM :)

If durability is what you're after, I'd consider a F300 Elite Arcade Stick F300 Elite instead of the stock F300. It's in your pricerange, but barely. It has a higher quality joystick and better button switches, so not only should it feel better to use but it'll last longer.

The regular F300 has mushy inputs. Great if you're going to be modding it, not so great if you're using it stock.

The Hori Fight stick's joystick can only be used for D-Pad input. For games that don't use the dpad for movement, like Super Smash Bros, it'll be unusable.

The 8bitdo arcade stick is known for lag.

I'm looking for a stick to play UMvC3 and SFV on PC. This mayflash stick is pretty cheap and is the amazon recommended one, but my buddies who play the games recommend this hori one. I've used the xbox/pc version of the stick that my buds recommend and I really like it, but I want to know if it's worth it. Any suggestions?

it kind of depends on a few factors.

• How much you want to spend.
  
  
• How much use you get out of it. This is tied to how much value you'll get out of your purchase.
  
  
• How high quality of a stick do you want.
  
  there's a number of different setups out there for different price ranges. the Thrustmaster setups seem to be of a higher quality than the Saitek/Logitech setups.
  
  personally i won't pay more than $100 for a stick that doesn't feature Force Feedback. this can be a little difficult when you want a new stick. i've been using a MS SideWinder Force Feedback 2 stick. it's old, but they're very good. they work well with pretty much everything, and in some games the Force Feedback is active.
  
  in games like Elite, it doesn't really use the FF feature, so it just puts a set amount of tension on the stick. i like this better than spring based sticks, and after nearly 20 years of use, my stick is still pinpoint precise, with no real deadzone. i actually have to set a small deadzone because the stick is a bit too sensitive.
  
  this doesn't solve the throttle problem, but i intend to fix that by adding a Thrustmaster Throttle.

Yes - while I love tinkering with hardware I'm so glad I bought these instead of assembling all the cords/solder points myself.

I'm getting another switched 4-port USB hub that I'm going to disassemble and Frankenstein into "push button to turn on each light gun and button/joystick set with LED lighting feedback" - but beyond that, I was much happier with the time investment of plug-and-play.

And yeah - taking apart a laptop would be tons of fun. I almost used my old iMac for that purpose, until I realized how underpowered it is by comparison. So I threw money at a processor ($180), a mobo ($45) and a 1GB video card ($35 LOL) and called it a day.

I'm sure at some point I'll even take the computer parts out of the cheap case I bought - but then cooling the entire cab becomes important and I ain't about that :P

They work pretty well. I was going to get a different set that some place makes that looks a little more solid but these were about half the price and I’m very happy with now solid they are. I am going to trim the throttle mount up a bit because the protrude pretty far right now but that’s an easy two minute job with the dremel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qlDkDb847EXRA

Alright tomorrow is the first time I'll really be diving in. I've had the game for a long time now but could not get used to the controls with keyboard and mouse At least not to an extent I felt was fun. But all you seem to really love the game so took some of my cash back money and bought.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2PE8CZ

So any advice for getting started with the game or even the controls would be appreciated.

I would recommend the following joystick...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Extreme-Pro-Precision-Joystick/dp/B00CJ5FPTA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_63_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YMXKHKZMHZCXF36J9JB9

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I had this for years before moving into yoke and rudder pedals. The bonus of this stick is it has a throttle lever, plenty of buttons and the stick twists that can be used as a rudder too.

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In terms of sim, I would recommend XP11 if you have a powerful PC - if not then go for P3D v4 - if that is too much money, then go for FSX Steam Edition.

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Be prepared to be spending money on addons though, as the vanilla of these sims are not all too great, much better with addons.

I would recommend Orbx for scenery, Active Sky for weather, A2A Planes in P3D/FSX.

This is a fantastic cheap HOTAS for anyone interested. It's just $50 for the stick and you can get the bundle with throttle for under $100.

This is ergonomically and actually build quality better than my X55 Rhino HOTAS, it's just a beautiful design. Twist yaw which is nice to use. Highly recommended! :)

It depends how much money you're willing to spend.

Are you okay with emulation? If so, you might want a stick like this or this one with Sanwa parts, and use a monitor that you already have.

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I don't really know much about getting the daughter board for the ZN-2 motherboard (maybe someone else can help out with that), but check out these sites for the ZN-2 motherboard:

https://sophia-corp.jp/

http://www.mak-jp.com/index.html

http://www.gfront.com/

https://www.akihabara-beep.com/stock-pcb/

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This YouTube video shows all the games that you could get with the ZN-2 motherboard itself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RurfNge7oqo

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If you are also okay with playing the original board on (preferrably) a CRT, you will need a JAMMA supergun. You can find those on eBay fairly easily.

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If you want to play on a cabinet, you will need to find a candy cabinet. Again, I am not well-versed in this and don't know much about finding these, but check out this video about candy cabs from KevinDDR for more about them.

Well get some.

For the triggers I’ve found this one to be decent, and it allows for 4 fingers, so shoot, aim, jump and mark are my favorite actions.

AnoKe Mobile Game Controller -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K214SVB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Then get a cheap clear case and cut it up. It stops the triggers from sliding. Mine looks funny, but it’s been cut so all the other pieces will slot in.

And some pads to mimic a controller really help with gripping your phone.

LTC "Scissorhands" Trigger M2 Mobile Game, Metal Buttons, Sensitive Shoot Aim as L1R1 Mobile Game Joysticks Shooting Survival Games, Fit Android iOS Smartphone (Black Holder) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2B9TW5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A48KDbKCTACSH

But the last thing, turn on motion controls, it’s weird, but the micro aiming you can do is neat.

Also don’t do what I do, I only play at home while riding my stationary bike, but somehow I have 76 solo wins overall

>-Does the throttle connect to one of the joysticks? And does it require its own USB port? So 3 total for the two sticks and throttle. Or does it piggy back off one of the joysticks?

The sticks and the throttle each have their own USB ports. If you get the Thrustmaster TFRP Pedals you can use the included rj12 cable to plug it directly into the Throttle to save 1 usb port, or you can use a USB cable if you have enough ports, or don't have the Throttle to plug it into.

Again, you'd want to do some research before choosing a pedal set as I know it's not as clear cut as the discussion of sticks and throttles in the budget arena.

>-if I did not get the throttle, the sticks each have a little slider throttle on them right? I think I saw the little slider in the middle on the photos. And that can be used as the throttle?

Yes, the sticks have a small slider on them which is handy and is enough to get the job done while you decide how much you would enjoy owning a throttle or not.

I started with the two sticks and picked up the throttle when it was released. I'm glad I own both dual sticks and the throttle as I enjoy both and having a throttle allows me to enjoy other flight sims/games with flying things as well (DCS, War thunder, ARMA, Etc.. Etc..)

Edit: Here is the pack with Stick+Throttle+Pedals: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ

Welcome!
I have to agree that a joystick will increase the experience. The Logitech Extreme 3D pro is a great one, and is very cheap. I've had it for ages and it's working perfectly. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Extreme-Pro-Precision-Fightstick/dp/B00CJ5FPTA

Honestly, if this is your first stick, you aren't sure if you'll like it yet. Don't spend a shit ton of money. I got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019MFPLC0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517491228&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mayflash+f500
People say that you need a controller plugged in all the time if you play on console but because tekken has legacy support I've never had to do that. Nor have I had to on SFV or dragon ball fighterz. Once I realized I wanted it to definitely use a fighting stick I swapped out the buttons and stick for qanba parts that work just fine. In fact its amazing and overall I spent as much as a normal qanba.

Let me grab a link....

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_13

This is a great starter pack with solid controllers for all three bits. I had this to start and was very, very pleased.

I eventually replaced the stick with a Warthog, which I also love. I will next replace the throttle with the Warthog throttle. After I get out of ship debt on my credit card ;)

I've found some online that haven't been too bad for just the cabinet. From this site. I like some of the designs. But what you proposed is a good idea, of getting it cut at a local mill.

If you don't mind, I have another question. what is a good place to order joy sticks and buttons from? I found some on Amazon for $73, it comes with 2 8 way sticks, 20 LED lit buttons, wiring, and two control boards. Link do those sound okay, or would you recommend something else?

This looks like a good option, but it's brand-new and won't have much in the way of reviews quite yet: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TWCS-Throttle-Controller-2960754/dp/B01L28LVUG/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M8AYQ0HXD24WZHDJ7SNV

There's also this: https://www.amazon.com/CH-Products-Pro-Throttle-USB/dp/B00006B84Z/ref=pd_sim_63_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00006B84Z&pd_rd_r=BBVE0NN44BMF96C4BHNN&pd_rd_w=2MRRO&pd_rd_wg=H0cUe&psc=1&refRID=BBVE0NN44BMF96C4BHNN

Finally, don't discount picking up a second joystick for that left hand instead of a throttle. Relatively cheap option, and dual sticks can be a lot of fun.

I'd hate to say it, but this is why I love my Steam Controller. The touch pad on the right made aiming really nice (Still not as good as a mouse though) However, I think people are seeing what you're saying as touch controls > real controls.

If I could have an analog stick for moving, but a touch pad/screen for aiming, I would be happy.

I'm using this since it is a bit of both.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0769NK92M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yup it's available on Steam! I'm actually on PC myself.

If you're interested, this is the stick I bought.

There's an infographic that puts the previous version of this stick in shit tier, so don't get confused. This new one is supposed to be great for newbies since it doesn't break the bank, and it can be modded with Sanwa parts easily.

I don't have any experience with fighting sticks, but it feels great to me. If I do my inputs purposefully, it all registers the way I expect so that's probably a good sign.

I have a black widow, might be better value in the EU, either way its a great stick and makes elite feel great http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001ZN4WU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415232051&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

I haven't bought the game yet but it looks really cool, I hope to be able to use these peripherals when I buy it. Thanks for working toward a quick bug fix

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I have a Thrustmaster HOTAS

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1549048613&sr=1-1&keywords=thrustmaster

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And a Gladiator flight stick

https://www.amazon.com/Gladiator-Joystick-Flight-Simulator-Controller-Stick/dp/B01G6GT49O/ref=sr_1_16?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1549048659&sr=1-16&keywords=flight+stick

Sticks like this or this are definitely "not good enough". If you read the associated reviews and they speak positively it is almost always in context of "budget" and "easily modded".

If you've never played on generic parts vs. good ones you'd be surprised how big the difference is. It isn't just some weird snake oil elitism.

Thanks for all that,

1

Checked the USB inputs and re-plugged them in like your guide.

https://imgur.com/a/RdPkZ6d

One on the left with the little bit of twisty tie is Player 1

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2

Not sure if its relevant- have it all hooked up like this

https://imgur.com/a/HMYKMcQ

I bought this one from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WAY9848/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's a main USB port at the end I have it plugged into- but also a 5 pin port marked USB

I assume its just the plug on the end- especially because its detecting the buttons when I config them.

The issue is when I load up a game, all buttons become 100% un-responsive.

From memory- when I hooked it all up yesterday- I actually had it working but only through player 2's select button- but since trying to map properly its all just gone downhill. Nothing works.

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3

Updated video where it shows me map buttons from scratch, and then load up SFII with nothing happening.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghkvhs-qjSs&feature=youtu.be

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Thanks for your time trying to help!

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​

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What platform are you on.

If you're on PC - you have a ton of options that are cheap + good largely because the used market for like Xbox360/ps3 branded sticks from top manufacturers has a literal ton of available sticks for cheap. Like you can literally pick up a Mad Catz Street Fighter IV stick for like $30, and I think most of these will just work on PC OTB, or at most requiring just software dl (e.g. Joytokey / x360ce) etc.


If you're on PS4/XB1 your options are a bit more limited. The F300 option noted below is ok, but you'll need to swap the stick/buttons/harness which is like ~$35 + the stick itself which ranges from $25-$55 depending on if you get it new/used. DIY will only really save you $$ here if you get a used f300, otherwise the price for a new F300-Elite (which uses the JLF + sanwa buttons) is basically only $5-$10 higher (~$90). (https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Arcade-Stick-Android-Switch/dp/B07CXJ77DT?pldnSite=1)



You could also just build one yourself which isn't that hard honestly. If you build the case yourself out of an old cigar box, this is more problematic tho with PS4/XB1 as the encoder/pcb price is $$$ compared to PC. Check /r/fightsticks for details. One of the cool things about DIY is you can play around with a bunch of different sticks. I for example am much more used to using Happ Competition sticks so I got a couple of those (which are cheap comparatively at ~$10), plus a bunch of others I've collected over the years.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-SWITCH/dp/B019MFPLC0

Well with fightsticks it’s safe to say go big or go home because most cheap ones are garbage but this one is a special circumstance. You’ll probably eventually upgrade it or upgrade to a new one but if you don’t do either of those things it will last you a super long time!

i have some random offbrand one from amazon that's pretty decent. the turbo button is super nice for the games i play.

i want that mini ps4 one though cause i have widdle baby hands.

The cord running into my trusty wired Xbox 360 controller is loose, which causes constant disconnections. I'm in the market for a new controller for pc gaming, any suggestions? This one looks pretty good.

Update: decided to just get an Xbox One controller with a cord and some rechargeable batteries. I was pretty hesitant about getting a knock-off item, which is why I asked. Thanks for the info!

Hi, I'm only an occasional lurker on this sub but I can help a little here. I was searching for info and stumbled on an Italian store listing three variations, HOTAS, stick only and a 'Flight Pack.'

You may take it with a grain of salt since some store speculatively list to draw early pre-orders, but Amazon in Germany have the same products up:

HOTAS

Flight Stick

Flight Pack

I assume the Flight pack includes the pedals?

I think Thrustmaster's own website shows the throttle separately as well, and surely they'd be crazy not to sell the items individually. I'm sure it will be possible to do stick only.

Nice review, I just did similar sort of research for myself when upgrading from a SpeedLink Black-widow (which you may want to mention on your list) to an X52 Pro. What struck me is how few HOTAS options there are on the market, and to an extent flight sticks in general. The last time I was aware of the pleasure-stick market was 5 years ago, when I bought my SpeedLink. I expected to find a ton of options when searching for an upgrade, but apart from a few new ones you still are basically limited to the same small selection that was available 5 years ago. And no good force-feedback sticks! I'd love to get my hands on a modern day Sidewinder.

Also, I've been using my SpeedLink with Arma 2 and 3 for the last few years, and it does work surprisingly well. The flight models are slightly arcadey, but using a hotas with it will still give you an edge over a basic flight-stick. It seems a lot of people still prefer using keyboard and mouse for Arma flight though, which personally baffles me but it probably attests to the weak flight physics. I'd like to see them run Prepar3d with a K&M.

Skyrim VR is amazing.

If you have a beastly computer go for fallout VR

If you really wanna bite the bullet and go all in, get this HOTAS/Pedal setup and get some cockpit fighter games. My recommendation is IL-2 Battle of Sturmovik. It's got a campaign you can play and great dogfighting. or Space sims like Elite: Dangeous

well. dualshock 4 is a very viable option. although you would have to use th Dpad (which is also a very viable option). you will have to getused to it a lot. if you want a fighting stick, there are some pretty cheap options.
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-Switch/dp/B019MFPLC0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mayflash+f500&qid=1565709878&s=gateway&sr=8-2 - a very cheap fightstick for entry level


https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Arcade-Fight-Android-Switch-NEOGEO/dp/B00QM7JUMY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mayflash+f500&qid=1565709914&s=gateway&sr=8-1 - improved model of the previous one. has better build quality, parts and is more sturdy, but also more expensive

https://www.amazon.com/MAYFLASH-Buttons-Joysticks-Nintendo-Android/dp/B07QJ1JJ7J/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mayflash+f500+elite&qid=1565710039&s=gateway&sr=8-2 - this is mayflash f500, but with sanwa buttons, which are pretty much the best arcade stick buttons you can get.


you dont have to sink hundreds of dollars into a fightstick

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i myself am using a dualshock 4 with the dpad, and it's very viable. half circles are giving me a bit of trouble in tekken, but that's because tekken 4 half circle motion is stupid

I had the same problem with my Alpha Cade joysticks. I ended up just gutting the whole thing and replaced the controller board with two of these...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5J5AJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was super easy there is really nothing to it. I followed ETA Primes tutorial here.

https://youtu.be/Bs78q_JCnZ0

Just make sure you wire both controllers to the same buttons on both boards cuz retropie will override the button configs cuz both boards will be using the same button configurations.

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Other than that I am really happy with my Alpha Cade. The sticks turned me into a happ convert (been using sanwa jlfs).

I'd go PS4, there are more people to play in general and most tournaments run PS4 so it could be an easier transition.

The actual net code is fine. Not that most people actually understand anything about what they call 'net code'. But for BBTAG it largely depends on your connection and the connection of the person you pair up against.

I always suggest playing with a controller first. Especially with a game like BB TAG. I played with a controller for a few months and later picked up the Mayflash F300. It's not like the best fight stick in the world but it's been a good stick nonetheless. No problems with it and I'd say it was a solid investment for the amount it cost.

I am also fairly new to fighting games. I watched the Central Fiction Top 8 at EVO 2017 with a friend and absolutely had to get into it. Picked up Central Fiction and shortly after DBFZ. Now BBTAG and UNIST. I competed at EVO 2018 last year for BBTAG, DBFZ, and Smash. I didn't win (Obviously) but I certainly didn't do bad. Especially having been playing for less then a year. So yes, you can do it if you have the drive, patience, and will to keep picking yourself up when youre down because fighting games are not easy. For the record, I'm almost 10 years older than you.

150 Arcade stick... yeah right

Apparently that thing is pretty good though and is pretty much the same price as an Xbox or PS controller.

I see that you're not having a good time with the PS4 controllers although they are toted as one of the better controllers for fighting games. If you're looking to get a more serious controller, something custom could be what you're looking for. I've personally never gone that route so I don't have any personal suggestions. I do know that SonicFox uses Battle Beaver Customs so do what you will with that information.

​

I first bought a fightstick because I thought it would be more fun to use than a controller. To an extent, it is. There is a whole learning curve that goes into it. If you think you're half decent now, you'll be trash on the stick until it becomes as comfortable as using a controller. It took me a month to be able to play semi-efficiently and another 2 weeks after to get back to my previous playing level. I researched a bit and picked up a Hori RAP N from Amazon because the NOIR button layout better accommodates large hands. I suggest you don't skimp out and buy a really cheap stick. The parts matter a lot. The cheapest I would suggest would be the F300 Elite since it still uses Sanwa parts. My issue ended up being not able to consistently hit diagonals.

​

I then discovered the hitbox after purchasing the RAP N and being a keyboard warrior / PC gamer, I had to try it. I checked out both the hitbox and the mixbox and without trying them out, I didn't know which one I'd prefer. I reached out to Aaron from AllFightSticks and he made me a custom layout that includes both the WASD layout from the mixbox and the "space bar" from the hitbox. I also managed to maintain the NOIR layout and keep the larger button size (official hitbox uses smaller buttons). It wasn't cheap but it's been well worth every dollar spent on it. I can use it on any system without added accessories, it's completely metal so it's durable, and it was made to my exact specifications. Ever since I got my hitbox, I haven't gone back. Added caveat of a hitbox / mixbox is that to do an IAD is essentially pressing WD>D or spaceD>D on your keyboard.

​

If you have any questions or want to see pictures of the box, let me know and I'll send you a link

This isn't new, this is exactly the same as my Mayflash fightstick, exact body and everything...works with Playstation, Xbox and PC. It's got cheap parts or considered to be some of the cheapest parts for fightsticks in general, but the useful bit is the 'turbo' feature that it allows for some buttons.

This is nothing but a rebrand or third party acquiring already available parts from a parts supplier. It's very similar to units like a XIM4 that use a controller as a middle man to provide inputs across a controller. You plug the unit or fightstick into the console first then then plug the controller into the fightstick and it piggy backs of the controller inputs.

Amazon Link

I agree. The Thing with a joystick is that you want it to have some weight so it doesn't move on your legs as much when you ma... strategically input something very fast.


You could modify a wooden box or build one yourself. If you glue a rubber mat under it wont move as much.


If you dont want to solder im sure there are encoders being sold for your console that have screw-in cable connections.


If you want to go super low budget you get something like this

• an encoder for your console and replace the buttons at a later date.

I was in the same boat, I was trying to find a good fightstick for cheap. I found this one and I got it, it's a great stick. I'm trying to get used to stick controls but from everything I read its a great stick to customize.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MFPLC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't think of a decent Xbox One stick at that price. Maybe EVO weekend something may go on sale, but you may be best off getting a Mayflash F300 and upgrading the buttons and stick when you see fit or getting a Mayflash F300 Elite which already comes with Sanwa parts.

Mayflash F300 Elite on Amazon

The F15 is DLC but the free version has a Su-25T and non-armed Mustang. The thing is you miss out with a controller, joysticks are already perfect for a VR input, I use this really cheap one and it does the job []-)

There’s cheap kits for fight sticks on amazon that come with everything you need

XCSOURCE Zero Delay Arcade DIY Kit Parts USB Encoder To PC Joystick 5Pin Rocker + 10pcs White Push Buttons AC783 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714DLWX6/

It took me about an hour, the board I got wasn’t well labeled. But it works great! (I use it mainly for shmups) my computer detects it as some kind of game pad. (Some games show Xbox button prompts).

I also set up a... Leonardo KEYESTUDIO Leonardo R3 Development Board with USB Cable for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786LJQ8K/

I also made a cardboard box as a pinball controller, that took a little programming; it’s arduino though so I basically copied example programs and tweaked the buttons being sent.

It’s easy to get into and do, and pretty cheap. If you buy a board just make sure it supports operating as a USB HID, that’s how the computer sees keyboards and game pads.

What’s the controller/game? If you don’t mind

Edit: removed ref from links, idk what it does but don’t wanna look like I’m getting paid!

What u/Deev12 said is absolutely true.

However, if you're looking for semi-casual gaming, 8bitdo just put out their NES30 bluetooth joystick (the only bluetooth stick around, AFAIK) and it's very decent. The buttons are easily swapped out with Sanwa/Seimitsu parts if the need arises, though the stick is not, and it works with PC/Mac/Linux, as well as Wii/U and Switch and any of their NES and SNES retro adapters.

Mayflash also makes some relatively cheap, moddable sticks, including this one, which supports PS1/PS2 in addition to PC (though this one is harder to mod than their more modern sticks, I think).

Another alternative would be the T16000M stick, which rings in at $40, same as the Stick X. This is just the stick half of the HOTAS I use (all pieces of the set are available separately). It's a refreshed version of the classic T16000M that thrustmaster has been making for years. As far as I'm aware, the internals are the same, with various exterior changes (differently shaped trigger, different hat, notching on the head buttons, different throttle slider, tactile indicators on the base buttons, and it glows orange rather than green).

It's a significantly more precise unit than the X and has much smoother action, due to its use of contactless hall effect sensors rather than the pots used by the X. By itself, you get 16 buttons (trigger, 3 on the head, and 12 on the base), an 8-way hat, twist stick, and a throttle slider. This is a much better alternative to the Stick X, giving a just plain better stick with more buttons.

And when you have more money available, you can go grab the throttle to complete the pair if you like.

DUDE

Good choice for a stick. its affordable and has great sensors. May i suggest you wait for the new Thrustmaster FCS throttle it was specifically designed for space flight sims.

And yes you can switch between the mouse and joystick/hotas seamlessly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L28LVUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With a budget stick, you're going to get the following:

• Shitty parts that will fall apart quickly.
  
• Shitty parts that you cannot swap out.
  
• Missing functionality like L3, R3, Touchpad buttons, inability to switch stick to left stick or right stick mode.
  
  Buying a budget stick is kind of like trying to play a PS4 game with a PS2 pad: You can play for the most part, but there are going to be times when you'll be forced to grab a PS4 controller.
  
  Now, that being said, you can get decent sticks in the sub-100$ category, such as:
  
  
• Mayflash F300 Elite. Has quality parts, but missing L3/R3 buttons.
  
• Qanba Drone. Shitty parts, but can be modded with better ones. There's an EVO edition that comes with good parts. Surprisingly, has all the functionality of a higher end stick.
  
• Mayflash F500. Big brother to the F300, comes with a plexi. Requires that you plug a controller into it to use. Missing some functionality (L3, R3 buttons). Easily upgradable with better parts.
  
  If you want a stick that has quality parts and is not missing any functionality, your best option is a Hori RAP 4 Kai. They are often on sale at prices near (or below?) 100$.

Do yourself a favor and buy a cheap stick or low-end HOTAS setup.

I started with a Saitek Cyborg and KBD, worked well. It has a good helping of buttons, Z-Axis (twist the stick for YAW) and an integrated analog throttle which is a must have IMO.

Personally I moved up to a HOTAS Watrhog which is a $450 set. My buddy is running on This stick and This Throttle and has just about as much functionality as me. More if you take into account the Warthog doesn't have a Z axis on the stick!

Absolutely. I use the Mayflash F300. Great customizable universal stick at a great price. You'll probably want a new stick and restrictor right off the bat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019MFPLC0

The T.16000M FCS (with the throttle) is more than enough for most modules (I've got everything except the WW2 birds and I've mapped everything I need), you can also get the pack with pedals included like here - I can fully map everything with only a couple of mappings as modifiers. It's a great starter set, highly recommend.

VR for Elite is way cooler in my opinion than a HOTAS setup if you can only afford one. But if you end up wanting to get into this kind of controller setup for Elite, your best bet would be the Thrustmaster T16000M FCS Flight Pack with a second stick (roughly 210.00 plus tax in the US for all of it). That gets you the throttle, twin sticks, and pedals. Very close to the Steel Battalion controller.

As far as headsets for VR go, I've heard very good things about the Lenovo Explorer for Elite since Elite is a cockpit game, so you don't actually need one of the more expensive sets (Vive / Rift).

Again, If I could choose only one option (both are around 200 bucks) I would chose VR. I have about 800 hours in Elite, 700 of which are VR and about 100 using the above HOTAS/Dual stick setup for reference. I can tell you this though, having both VR and Hotas is pretty mind blowingly immersive. Cheers!

Edit: I'd like to also mention, after playing Elite with various HOTAS equipment, I've settled on the TM 16000m throttle and peddles, but my main stick is the X56 Rhino stick.

Thanks! I normally use BING so I will see if google can provide better results. This is the first results..

​

https://www.amazon.com/Easyget-Encoder-Joystick-Illuminated-Buttons/dp/B00WAY9848

​

I am looking for just the led not the whole kit.

​

back to BING i guess. Thank you!!

i got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-SWITCH/dp/B019MFPLC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524279277&sr=8-1&keywords=mayflash+f300&dpID=41kJtZ1P7sL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

great price. no modifications necessary to put in sanwa if you want, i haven't this is great budget.

i purchased the older mayflash and put put in custom pcb and added sanwa stuff. this is good enough that i forgot about even buying parts haha, try it , there is also a version with easy change out art for 20$ more i think.

Can't find the hardware thread so

First off lemme say that no one I know is dropping $120+ on something for little ol' me.

But if someone will spend a little less and then I can plunk some better buttons in there, that sounds great to me. I'm looking at these 4 options right now:
https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Controller-Fight-Stick-Drone-PS4/dp/B01I0GEDEY/

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-PlayStation-Android-X-Input-D-Input-Joystick/dp/B01HSQE7IY/

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Arcade-Fightstick-Joystick-F300/dp/B019MFPLC0/

https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Q1-PS3-Joystick-Fightstick/dp/B00BXPIO1S/

Doesn anyone have any experience with these out of the box and after modding? Any issues? I will also be using this to play GG and possibly BB if that makes any difference.

I use this Logitech joystick, and it's good enough for procedural (IFR) work:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A76N8RO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_NW5YAbD25JHRF

Best recommendation I can make is PilotEdge.net

Here's a Primer on X-Plane that I prepared for those just getting started with X-Plane.

Hey. It doesn't really mater as most yokes aren't that realistic as you can't turn them the full ninty degrees. (Some really expensives yokes have do this). A yoke also takes a lot of space. It doesn't really matter for flight simulation. I'd recommend the https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ joystick. Although I'm a boeing fan it's just better and cheaper to take a joystick.

​

(In de link above rudder peddals which is a must and a throttle are included)

Thanks! I'm definitely trying to get THIS since it is on sale on amazon right now.
Since I've been playing around with mouse+keyboard for so long, how do I look around in a cockpit when I have the throttle and stick? Can I do everything with just this pack?

I just purchased the Pein mounts a couple of weeks ago for my TM Warthog HOTAS and they're great and not too expensive.

Also, they easily unclamp for when your husband needs to go into work mode.

https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Joystick-Throttle-Hand-Control-Game-Device/dp/B07KJCC4Q7

Please note that you will need two of these mounts; one each for throttle and stick.

This is my bartop arcade that I built and I really happy how it came out.

I used the following parts from Amazon:

Raspberry Pi 3 Kit

Joystick and Buttons

Monitor

I used 3/4'' MDF to build the structure and had a buddy who owns a print shop design and print the decals for me including the marquee. Most of the hardware used for electrical was bought at a local hardware store (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.)

Took about 15 hrs to build and was so much fun as is it to play with it. I mainly built it for my daughter which is just discovering retro gaming.

Maybe I will upload a video in action but everyone knows what it looks like and how it functions for the most part.

If there is anything you guys have a question about let me know in the comments.

Album not link?

Sure!

• XCSource Arcade Buttons
  
  The arcade buttons came with all the relevant wiring and the usb cable.
  
  
• Bamboo Tea Box
  
  I got a coupon that I used on the tea box, which is why it was less than $30 total for me, but it still ain't an expensive box. I also drilled all the button holes into the bottom of the box, because the bottom is made of particle board and much less prone to splintering when cut/drilled.
  
  
• Sticker Paper
  
  (I already had this from making my trash stick). The printed design is one I saw on Pinterest--not my own. It's really meant for a marquee but I adapted the sizing of the image for this. I might suggest others use a paper with a glossy finish, or design their sticker on redbubble for a higher quality finish. That would probably be more convenient, since the box is longer than a standard piece of printer paper so I had to add more sticker to the ends (that's the brown borders along the right and left side). You could also just not screw up with ugly holes like me and then not do a sticker at all. =P
  
  That's it. =)

I hooked a DualShock 3 up for wireless P2 to mine. Anything that's USB and most bluetooth controllers work fine. For a bar you may want to consider something like this:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/222068642

Plus

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WAY9848/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c0nezbKN0E68M

And a Pi3 would get you an awesome bartop console for under 150

If you have the budget, you may like this setup https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540203046&sr=8-5&keywords=Thrustmaster. Be sure to dig into the reviews, but this model seems like sturdy budget solution for stick, throttle and pedals. Mine should be arriving today.

I can't compare them as I haven't used the other brand. I got this 2P set based on the reviews. The buttons have screw rings on the back to tighten it. The easiest part about this set is the encoders. I was gonna a build one out if an Arduino but this is plug and play and saved me countless hours trying to make that work.

What do you think of this one?

I think I actually like this one a lot, I looked up a review of the mini and it wasn’t great, and I want to build an arcade cabinet in my room. And I think I may be able to use this on all my consoles (including PS2, I’m getting CVS2 tomorrow) so what do you think?

just the stick - Logitech Xtreme 3D Pro $35 at best buy might even be in stock locally, will work but sensors are cheep will wear out in a year.

stick and throttle _ Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS Controller better sensors will last much longer

if you also want rudder peddles this is a well priced combo Thrustmaster T16000M FCS Flight Pack - PC

Late to the party I know, but I'm also waiting for the TWCS.

The amazon.com page has filled out a bit, looking like October for US, maybe a bit later for EU?

Cool xmas pressie?

None of those worth your money, they are outdated devices with old components and lots of issues (search on Reddit about it).

Best and cheapest combo on the market at this point:

1. VKB Gladiator MKII - $84 ( https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-sim-gladiator );
   
2. TWCS throttle - $79 ( https://www.amazon.com/ThrustMaster-2960754-Thrustmaster-TWCS-Throttle/dp/B01L28LVUG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=twcs&qid=1571860005&sr=8-1 )
   
   Total: $163.
   
   Additionally you could upgrade your setup by getting a Kosmosima grip and an adapter for $100 ( https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=gladiator-upgrade-kit-lite-w-mcg-bundle-2 ) like here: https://youtu.be/x_LXh5LTJL4

The F300 is fine for your purposes. There is also an Elite version available (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CXJ77DT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GKnEDbK4M736R) that already comes with Sanwa parts and costs about the same if you were to mod the non-Elite model.

I recommend the Hori RAP N (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A8L6O0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wHnEDbPEFHNYX) as well, since it's about as as cheap as a new F300 Elite, has a better button layout, and already comes with quality Japanese arcade parts.

Hi there! Please remove everything in your links after ref= including ref=. If you'd like a copy/paste:

https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Controller-Fight-Stick-Drone-PS4/dp/B01I0GEDEY

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-PlayStation-Android-X-Input-D-Input-Joystick/dp/B01HSQE7IY

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Arcade-Fightstick-Joystick-F300/dp/B019MFPLC0

https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Q1-PS3-Joystick-Fightstick/dp/B00BXPIO1S

Not only does this make your post much easer to read, it also removes any unintentional advertising links.

We're going to keep this post removed until you can edit, thanks!

Thank you for the reply and information. I use J Pein mounts for my TM WH. Is that a mount that your triple MFD would be able to be made to fit to?

Link for reference:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2r2xDbXZXAPP8

Thanks in advance!

This right here, I have the pedals and the throttle. I bought a different joystick though for reasons unknown to me lol. The joystick was fine and more than adequate.

Thanks!

I bought this set of controls, an Open-Box 24" monitor from my local MicroCenter, and everything else was pretty standard, i.e. regular Raspberri Pi, a cheap case for it, the cheapest speakers I could find on Amazon, etc

They're not terrible. They've gotten a lot better in recent years.

But you can also get something like this to be a lot more comfortable gaming on mobile. When my PC was out of commission for a few weeks I relied on that.

I concede on the KBM part. I agree, you can get stuff that will work fine for pretty cheap.


The T16000m by itself is around $40 on amazon normally. They recently released the new FCS HOTAS, which comes with the T16000m stick and a throttle, for $130. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KCHPRXA or the same thing with pedals included for $200 https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ
They are switching over production from the older green design to the newer gold design, so I wouldn't buy anything right now until it settles down again. I expect you'll be able to buy the stick alone again once they do (and people can stop scalping them...)


You're not the only asshole who thinks that, there's a whole large crowd of us. :)

I think I have this sorted out. Let me explain what I was shooting for, in case anyone is thinking about a similar setup.

First, the goal was for a bartop setup with a pair of arcade-style sticks built in. I got these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WAY9848/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The set came with a pair of 'zero delay' USB encoders, that when hooked to the Pi together, produce the wonky results I described earlier. I finally found the solution in a previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/RetroPie/comments/4p3uzo/2_zero_delay_usb_encoders_not_working_together/

The solution is a simple addition to a text file, noting the USB ID class of your type of controller.

The second goal of my build however, was to have a pair of external USB ports to plug in wired controllers like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VAHYQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to play more console-centric games. The problem I kept running into is that many of the console emulators will only recognize the first two input devices. The external controller ended up always being #3 and wouldn't work.

The solution here is to use the USB port ordering on the Pi itself to dynamically (at boot time) reorder the controllers so you can use the one(s) you want. I can't find the link to the video I found describing the order, but if you're looking at the USB ports head-on, they are upper-left, lower-left, upper-right, lower-right ordered as 0, 1, 2, 3, respectively. RetroPi will number the controllers in that order, so generally anything plugged in to 0 and 1 are the inputs recognized by the console emulators.

In my situation for example, I wanted the SNES emulator to use the game pad(s) if plugged in, otherwise use the sticks. Since the zero-delay encoders needed extra power for the LED-lit buttons, I used the flat panel monitor's built-in hub to daisy chain them. The monitor's host USB connection went to port 2 (upper right) on the RPi. The two console controllers then, when connected, get ports 0 and 1 - making them the first two inputs.

I sit on my couch to play. I have a monitor on a stand in front of me on the floor which suits me fine. I use a Speedlink black widow http://www.amazon.co.uk/Speedlink-SL-6640-SBK-Black-Widow-Flightstick/dp/B0001ZN4WU
The black widow is very cheap but I have had it for a few years now and have found it to be a great budget HOTAS.

I also have my keyboard on the arm of the sofa to my left and in between this I use my old ASUS TF101 tablet running Roccat power grid as my control panel. Using this I can adjust all my power settings and lower landing gear/cargo scoop etc.

The keyboard is only ever used for chat or tabbing out to windows.

I will try and post a pic later but I'm at work right now and cant.

Edit: pic http://imgur.com/DhpT6yt

Thrustmaster TWCS Throttle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L28LVUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g1mZDb272WG95


https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-sim-gladiator

There are better sticks and throttle but this was what I saw being recommended for starting out. I also highly recommend trying VR for elite. I got to borrow an odyssey plus headset over the weekend and it was a whole new experience. I’ll probably be looking into a headset over Black Friday.

I've been using this one for like half a year (sparingly mind you). And it works like a charm. And it's universal, so. There's that.

Buying Elite just after Christmas will cost more, and deliver less, than pre-ordering now.

The current cost of the game in pre-order is £35, at release it will be £39.99. The pre-order also includes an Eagle fighter, a paint-job and day-one decal (if that kind of thing interests you).

If the T-flight mentioned by Funkyjunk doesn't appeal (it probably should, especially for the price) then the standalone joysticks:

• Logitech Extreme 3D Pro
  
• Thrustmaster t16000m - uses Hall-effect sensors for X and Y axes like the more expensive sticks
  
• Defender Cobra M5 - a very nice stick that should be available from VKB but may be just outside your price once tax/delivery comes in to it.
  
  Might work for you too. If you later become ridiculously wealthy you could add a separate throttle like the CH Products Pro for example.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Fight-Joystick/dp/B019MFPLC0/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1504572855&sr=1-3&keywords=arcade+stick

This May flash for about 59.99 i got for a friend says it's a good "starter".

Overtime its a solid practice arcade stick to afford and if you're still not ready for a more expensive arcade stick. You CAN customize the buttons or the square gate if you want to.

Normally, I'd recommend building your own, you could start off with something like this. You could then upgrade, expand, and reconfigure as you want.

However, if you're not very handy, don't want all the mess and fuss, and just want something you can pull out of the closet every so often, the something like this is probably what you're looking for.

Beware though, an 8-way stick is not very good on 4-way stick games (Donkey Kong and Pac-man).

I'd recommend the Mayflash f300 because it works with pretty much anything and can be upgraded with more high quality parts later if you want. the elite version already has high quality parts if you want to skip that step.

https://www.amazon.com/XCSOURCE-Encoder-Joystick-Buttons-AC783/dp/B0714DLWX6/

"fight stick diy"

The thing is, for dedicated arcade fighters, they have their own stick and own setup (like the warthog) for their specific game, and the DIY scene allows a person to build their own fight stick to, um, pwn some n00bs. Or build/upgrade/restore their own arcade cabinet in their house (it's a pretty dedicated fanbase, just like RX7 owners).

I think you're on track! I used to buy the encoder separately from all the buttons and joysticks, but now there are a lot of options for bundles. I just finished my first bartop (my 4th machine overall). That was also my first pi. That pi bundle came with usb controllers, so that's what I used in that cab for now. May switch out later.

I'm building a small console machine now, and this is what I bought off Amazon. The little easy-get kits, with the zero-delay usb encoders. I've used the zero delay encoders before, and they are a great cheap alternative to the $30/$40 encoders.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WAY9848/ref


The 4.3mm and 6.8mm reference, was that in reference to the dimensions of the cherry switch? That is too large to be in reference to "how far button travels before triggering the switch".

Sometimes there is also a measurement on how much presssure takes to activate the switch. This amount of pressure can make it feel more/less realistic to an original arcade machine. My unskilled fingers cannot tell the difference...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07449HLKJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used this one for OOT. It's a little touchy and oversensitive, and the thumbstick definitely feels a tad cheap, but it got the job done for a nostalgia trip. Note that the cord is pretty short, I had to use an extender cable.

yep it can hold up to 12 buttons and a joystick. https://amazon.com/dp/B01IQTN328
I have a joystick switch for indicators and wipers in another button box, one like this https://amazon.com/dp/B01IP07824

Based on a recommendation I bought a Speedlink Black Widow Flightstick - perfectly functional for casual use and out-of-the-box compatible with Arma 3.

I got this because it was just to see if I would actually like playing stick. Now that I do, i'm definitely looking to upgrade to something with more quality

I downloaded the game and can play it with no glitches with KBM. But I wanted to play with a controller so I bought this controller from Amazon (amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBX1R55) which is a usb controller with the xbox layout. I plugged it in and it was immediately recognized by Windows 10, but when I started the game and switched to "gamepad" in the UI menu, nothing happened, the game acts like the controller isn't there. I confirmed in the W10 settings "test" area that the controller works and is sending commands mapped to the correct buttons. So I tried adding both ElDorado.exe and updater.exe to Steam, then using the steam controller configuration feature to recognize the gamepad (which it does, and responds to the controller in the Steam menu UI), but again, even after doing this then opening the game through Steam, it acts like the controller isn't there. I tried downloading x360ce but it crashed and said the file became corrupted; then I downloaded Durazno but when I open it the program never responds (I get the little mouse "loading" wheel indefinitely on mouseover) until I force close the program. I was REALLY looking forward to playing Halo Online with a controller, since I have many years of experience with a controller and I suck with KBM... Is there any way I can get this controller to work or did I just flush $19 down the toilet?

I had a question about that. It says 2 to 5 weeks, not preorder.. is it the same as a preorder? They have just the throttle on there currently but it says "preorder price guarantee" and lists a release date...

Why doesn't the combined unit say that as well?

Not sure to order it yet or wait till it's an official ship on _____ Amazon preorder.

Here's the throttle:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L28LVUG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_uAj0xbMEMXTSF

https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-sim-gladiator
Here’s another good option for a stick. Do you have a price range on mind? Also, you can buy the throttle separately. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TWCS-Throttle-Controller-2960754/dp/B01L28LVUG

Also, try /r/hotas for help

Okay, so I got him a Raspberry Pi for Christmas and he had turned it into a computer that plays old video games... the expensive thing is the [kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WAY9848/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3H4BZNET2W15O&coliid=IV0C0R3WPE2V4) to make an arcade box... the other thing is just like a [kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTE5SGA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3H4BZNET2W15O&coliid=I2MWBUGE8CSI4K&psc=1) [of] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ICNY0FW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3H4BZNET2W15O&coliid=I1248L5W0OGC1S) things to do other projects with it.

Buy him the stuff so he can build a nice home play pad.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5J5AJO/ref=pd_luc_rh_sbs_02_01_t_ttl_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is a good no latency controller board that can be the brain of his ddr/piu pad.

Awesome! The buttons and joysticks connect to a USB encoder that connects directly to the powered USB hub. The powered USB hub is then connected to the Pi. This is the same buttons and joysticks that I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WAY9848/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478364885&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=arcade+joystick+and+buttons&dpPl=1&dpID=61OqcBVFq7L&ref=plSrch.

Total beginner?
Logitech Extreme 3D Pro.
Has all the bits needed and won't break the bank.

As with most things you can pay more to get better but as a casual player the 3D Pro does the job well.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Extreme-Pro-Precision-Joystick/dp/B00CJ5FPTA

https://www.amazon.com/Easyget-Encoder-Joystick-Illuminated-Buttons/dp/B00WAY9848 look at what all you can make with this kit! LED buttons, Joysticks! still not 65 bucks! fuck microsoft lol

This is the one that I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0744DW55H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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It looks and feels like the real thing... just wish I could get the mapping figured out.

>Also, long-time question: how does track IR work? If you turn your head wouldn't you not be able to see the screen?

It's not a 1:1 mapping of movement. You set curves so that (for example) if you turn your head 10 degrees and your view turns thirty. I use OpenTrack and have it set up so pointing my head at the edges of the screen (so I can point my eyes the other way and still be able to see all the screen) turns my in-game view 180 degrees in yaw, and +90/-45 in pitch.

As far as hardware goes, something like a Thrustmaster T1600 FCS pack might work for you; it comes with a stick, throttle and rudder pedals, is reasonably cheap and isn't as massive as something like an X-56.

Just a basic HOTAS like this or or with pedals but you don't really need them. Actually all you really nned is something like this

I would go VKB Gladiator MKII because it use contactless sensor on all 3 stick axes. So.. More accurate and most importantly maybe more durable! And for the throttle I would take the Thrustmaster TWCS (You'll probably want to re-grease it frequently, it is easy to do on this throttle, but annoying..). Sadly there aren't other standalone throttle that could fit your budget and not feel like a downgrade compared to the X55, to my knowledge.

The 3D rudder might offer you some possibilities, some accessibility back :finger crossed:


4 axes, so the hope is that one (or at least one) might be ok for you?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ThrustMaster-3935075-Thrustmaster-T16000M-Hotas/dp/B01H6KXGEI?th=1

Nope, just just bought 2 this weekend and they are great!

With your budget in mind, here are some good beginner sticks.

(Mayflash F300) https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-Switch/dp/B019MFPLC0/ref=pd_sbs_63_t_0/147-2143418-9487810?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019MFPLC0&pd_rd_r=850f71c3-12f3-479d-aac1-69d0f32fda49&pd_rd_w=VtNSv&pd_rd_wg=vzPMH&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=EQJP8AR3AS1E1QWPAT8S&psc=1&refRID=EQJP8AR3AS1E1QWPAT8S

(8Bitdo N30) https://www.amazon.com/8Bitdo-Arcade-Stick-Nintendo-Switch-Android/dp/B073ZNXFL6/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=fightstick&qid=1569978597&s=videogames&sr=1-11

(Mayflash F101) https://www.amazon.com/MAYFLASH-Arcade-Stick-F101-Switch/dp/B07D26RD9P/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=fightstick&pd_rd_i=B07D26RD9P&pd_rd_r=727a3787-e63a-48e9-8173-6001f7c159bd&pd_rd_w=TQzqX&pd_rd_wg=h6CZ7&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=JTASZW07A36KMRB18S4Q&qid=1569978700

(Qanba Carbon) https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Joy-Stick-Carbon-PS3-PC/dp/B01HSQE7IY/ref=sr_1_39?keywords=fightstick&qid=1569978731&sr=8-39

The last one is only PS3 and PC compatible so in the case if you plan on getting the carbon and want to use it on a ps4, you'll have to get a brook ps3 to ps4 converter for it.

I have a couple of these and they're serviceable. The thing about N64 games is they don't feel right to me without the N64 type joystick, which you don't see on other controllers. It's most noticeable in racing games. Of course, with an emulator you may also have the option to adjust joystick sensitivity and deadzones, and that can help. But those innext controllers felt about right out of the box.

At the very least get a Logitech 3D extreme pro, it's a very affordable and effective joystick. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Extreme-Pro-Precision-Fightstick/dp/B00CJ5FPTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408559194&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+3d+extreme+pro

I upgraded from it to a X52 pro.

Twist sticks are never good anyway. They're looser, more prone to breaking, and lack precision.

You want those pedals. I've got the VKB T-Rudder Mk4, but that's because I have hardwood floors and any other model would slide all over the place. CH's Pro Rudders are a fine base model for ~$100.

If that's too much, get this instead. It's a step down from the CH (pretty sure the stick twists), but has the whole set. You want those pedals.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/

I bought some clothes from wish.com once. It was the single most egregious lesson in “you get what you pay for” I’ve ever experienced. These clothes didn’t even come close to approximating the pictures of them. Seams were misaligned more than a Picasso painting, made out of some rough nylon that felt like a kids Halloween costume. I bought a bunch of pieces and ended up just donating the lot, and feeling bad about even giving them to some poor soul.

Never, ever, go anywhere near wish.
If you need reasonably priced joysticks, buttons and encoders, this set is awesome, and I’ve bought it twice


Easyget LED Arcade DIY Parts 2x Zero Delay USB Encoder + 2x 8 Way Joystick + 20x LED Illuminated Push Buttons for Mame Jamma Arcade Project White + Blue Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WAYVR9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wz8kDbBCJARRG

As far as I know it doesn't have official controller support. You will need to use some sort of a button mapper possibly (which most require root)

I bought myself one of these which works fairly well.

It's from this desk mount:




J-PEIN (Upgraded): the desk mount for the flight sim game joystick, throttle and hotas systems. Fully support almost all of flight sim game hand-control devices. (not include game-device) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7KcCDbT1SWRSN

Gotcha. Very helpful. I bought some 220 grit for when I am cleaning some drill holes. Will that work?

Also, I am using these buttons for the arcade. The details say the buttons mount into a 24mm hole and some into a 28mm hole. My spade/paddle its are in inches and don't match the metric measurements. Thoughts?

I used this kit from Amazon. The keycaps are removable to add button art and they light when pressed or can be wired to stay lit all the time. Works great and i've not had any lag issues or any other problems. https://www.amazon.com/Easyget-Encoder-Joystick-Illuminated-Buttons/dp/B00WAY9848

You need Amazon Prime to get a Mayflash F300 for $60 with FREE 2 day shipping

Then you go to focusattack.com to get a crown 309MJ and some sanwa buttons to pimp that sucker out on the cheap

then you get tekken god prime

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-SWITCH/dp/B019MFPLC0

probably the best one. at that budget you're not getting the best feel and durability, but this one is at least moddable so you could add sanwa parts later if you wanted.

i have an unmodded version (the venom ps4 - i think it's basically the same stick) and it's fine for me.

TWCS Throttle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01L28LVUG/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all&qid=1564155694&sr=8-1

and

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1331331-REG/thrustmaster_2960754_twcs_throttle.html?ap=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyerpBRD9ARIsAH-ITn9eqGFi5GpzIMO_P1oAZYXZL88mIqkISVS9c5_jZUyE97DBwrfdxGYaAtcTEALw_wcB

Looks to be going through a restock phase so you can either grab it from an alternate vendor on Amazon or wait for the restock

​

Stick

https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-sim-gladiator

I have never used the Gladiator but have broken a t16k. Everything I have heard about the gladiator is it is infinitely better.

I am currently running a VKB Space Gladiator on a Gunfighter base. But that is a bit of change more. I am using the TWCS throttle and it suits my needs just fine for now.

Sadly the cheapest i can think of is the Thrustmaster Throtle from the TWCS set, which u can buy seperatly i think (https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TWCS-Throttle-Controller-2960754/dp/B01L28LVUG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499091989&sr=8-2&keywords=throttle) <--dont know maybe its cheaper in your country or there are cheaper stores. Thats basicly all i found an i hear a lot of good stuff abbout it for being a low budget Throttle (lots of buttons and good ergonomics)....i myself use the Thrustmastr T16000m and the Saitek X52 Throttle and got it with the stick for half the price (Stick is garbage). I used to run on a 3D pro too and used the Keyboard instead of this little thingy....worked way better. Otherwise you schould maybe keep your eyes open on Ebay or on flea markets, thats all i can think of sorry.

Thrustmaster T.16000M. Get the stick now, save up to add the HOTAS throttle later. Maybe add the pedals farther down the road.

Stick: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ThrustMaster-2960706-Thrustmaster-T-16000M-Joystick/dp/B001S0RTU0

Throttle: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-TWCS-Throttle-Controller-2960754/dp/B01L28LVUG

Pedals: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-Flight-Rudder-Playstation-2960764/dp/B015PII6YI

Looks like the J-Pein hotas mounts. They run $80 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Joystick-Throttle-Hand-Control-Game-Device/dp/B07KJCC4Q7


MonsterTechUSA makes some aluminum ones for about $100-$130 a piece.

https://monstertechusa.com/product/joystick-hotas-table-mount/

FYI, both Amazon and Newegg have the thrustmaster 16k flight pack on sale for $126.
Newegg requires using their phone app & a code but Amazon does not.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2PE8CZ

 
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826280082

I'm on the fence as I don't think I'll be getting Elite....sounds too grindy for me.

I am looking at this set.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496603618&sr=8-2&keywords=Thrustmaster+T.16000M+FCS+HOTAS

I see in the game the pilot has rudder pedals. Do I need them? I suppose for immersion purposes it would be nice.

Or you could be a bit smarter and buy this : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Extreme-Pro-Precision-Joystick/dp/B00CJ5FPTA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_63_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FHMATKA47BRJZMBBN89F

I realize that I need to go up to $199 + for a great stick that will last me.

I stumbled upon this in a thread here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B019MFPLC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It might be a little on the small side, but as an entry point, budget stick, doesn't this look OK?

Thanks for this ad which is still higher priced than Amazon, I guess

My roommate found an old CH yoke in the basement that he purchased years ago but never used. Works like a charm. I just peek through the nose bridge to press keys, but almost never once the engine is up in the air. I'm planning on buying this once the price comes back down (lowest was $129)

This is what I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WAY9848/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm also just nervous about splicing the Jamma wires, I really liked the well labeled Jamma harness a didn't want to have to wait to get another one if I screw it up royally.

If you're not feeling the pedals, return them. How about a throttle that has an analog yaw control like the Thrustmaster FCS throttle ?

Get this instead:

http://www.amazon.com/F300-Mayflash-Arcade-Fight-Joystick/dp/B019MFPLC0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I just got it today in the mail and it's not bad. Definitely needs to be modded and the reviews say you can do that easily.

This mount will accept a T16000:

https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Joystick-Throttle-Hand-Control-Game-Device/dp/B07KJCC4Q7

It sounds like you are looking for a fightstick.

Does your budget include flight controllers? I like this set: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/