Reddit mentions: The best video games

We found 79,097 Reddit comments discussing the best video games. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 16,058 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

5. Redragon M901 Wired Gaming Mouse, MMO RGB LED Backlit Computer Mice, 12400 DPI Perdition with 18 Programmable Buttons, Weight Tuning Set for Windows PC Gaming (Black)

  • WIRED GAMING MOUSE; built for PC Gamers -Optical Gaming Mouse up to 12400 DPI via software, 12000 FPS, 1000 Hz polling rate, 50G acceleration. The High-Precision Sensor delivers Pinpoint Accuracy while the Micro Switch ensure longevity, greater durability
  • LED RGB BACKLIT PROGRAMMABLE GAMING MOUSE; 18 programmable buttons, 5 Memory Profiles each with distinct LED color option for quick identification. Comes with 8-piece weight tuning set (2.4g x8) and Breathing Effects. (LED Backlight can be disabled)
  • ERGONOMIC GAMER MOUSE DESIGN; Ergonomic shape fits naturally in your hand, reduces stress with superior productivity and efficiency. Give an extremely gaming experience during sessions.
  • HIGH-END PC GAMING MOUSE FEATURES; 7 Mouse Buttons PLUS 12 MMO programmable side buttons. Total 19 buttons. Fire button, Pulsing Breathing light color modes. Durable smooth TEFLON feet pads for ultimate gaming control
  • PC GAMING MOUSE COMPATIBILTY: Windows 10, Windows 8, Windows 7, Windows Vista, or Windows XP, Limited Mac OS keyboard support. Comes with 6 foot high-speed braided fibre cable and a gold-plated corrosion free USB connector for a reliable connection
Redragon M901 Wired Gaming Mouse, MMO RGB LED Backlit Computer Mice, 12400 DPI Perdition with 18 Programmable Buttons, Weight Tuning Set for Windows PC Gaming (Black)
Height1.53543 Inches
Length4.64566 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateAugust 2021
Weight0.330693393 Pounds
Width2.95275 Inches
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6. UtechSmart Venus Gaming Mouse RGB Wired, 16400 DPI High Precision Laser Programmable MMO Computer Gaming Mice [IGN's Recommendation]

  • 『SENSITIVE DPI MMO MOUSE』Focus on MMO gamers: this professional MMO gaming mouse built-in up to 16400 DPI, 12000 FPS, 1000 Hz polling rate, 30G acceleration, 100-150in/s cursor speed, and a high precision Avago sensor. It has an adjustable sensitivity level (range from 200 - 16400) built right into the gaming mouse. You can easily adjust the mouse sensitivity using buttons on the mouse. Great micro switches provide crisp, firm clicks.
  • 『FULLY CUSTOMIZABLE MOUSE & RGB BACKLIT』Venus MMO wired gaming mouse with multiple programmable buttons (included 12 side buttons), 5 custom profiles each with 5 LED RGB colors backlit modes for quick identification of profiles and additional options for over 16 million LED RGB colors. The LED breathing light can be disabled according to your preference. Special Setting Switch Button on the bottom of the wired gaming mouse allows you to execute the switch profile command with maximum efficiency.
  • 『PROGRAMMABLE MOUSE BUTTONS』All the macro buttons allow you to customize the functions to your specific needs and can be easily mapped to any of the usual keyboard keys, combos. Venus MMO gaming mouse with side buttons can be mapped to what will best fit your style of play are placed within easy reach of your thumb. “Auto Fire button" is a convenient key for most games that can optimize your preferences. It makes gaming so much easier and even has the ability to increase your level of gameplay.
  • 『PRECISE CONTROL IN YOUR HAND』Venus MMO mouse is also an adjustable weighted mouse that comes pre-assembled with (2. 4g) x 8 weights inside. 12 buttons on the side are angled and can be positioned faster by touch alone. The Venus gaming mouse has a nice rest place on the left where your thumb can rest when not active. Comes with two durable smooth TEFLON feet pads for the bottom of the mouse to make the mouse slide better and bring the ultimate gaming experience for you.
  • 『COMFORTABLE SHAPE & TEXTURED GRIP』 Ergonomic Right-Handed design with the frosted painting surface avoids hand sweat and slippery. The shape and texture on the mouse are extremely comfortable in the hand and the size is suited for most. That can keep your grip firm during gameplay. 6ft braided-fiber cable with gold-plated USB connector ensures greater durability. 18-Month Manufacturer's Promise.
UtechSmart Venus Gaming Mouse RGB Wired, 16400 DPI High Precision Laser Programmable MMO Computer Gaming Mice [IGN's Recommendation]
Height1.5 Inches
Length4.6 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJuly 2018
Weight0.4875 Pounds
Width3 Inches
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16. Microsoft Xbox 360 Wired Controller

  • X360 Wired Controller
Microsoft Xbox 360 Wired Controller
Height0.5 Inches
Length6.7 Inches
Number of items1
Size8.10 Inch x 6.70 Inch x 2.60 Inch
Weight0.78 Pounds
Width5.3 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on video games

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where video games are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 3,677
Number of comments: 159
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3,623
Number of comments: 127
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 2,211
Number of comments: 1,841
Relevant subreddits: 7
Total score: 1,242
Number of comments: 372
Relevant subreddits: 6
Total score: 809
Number of comments: 307
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 528
Number of comments: 187
Relevant subreddits: 6
Total score: 454
Number of comments: 159
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 203
Number of comments: 125
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 158
Number of comments: 158
Relevant subreddits: 26
Total score: 123
Number of comments: 126
Relevant subreddits: 6

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u/Alortania · 3 pointsr/swtor

If you're not interested in endgame (you will be ;P) I'd suggest getting an amazon/origin bundle and subbing for a couple months.

Save your CC's until you really know what you want to spend them on.

Once your sub lapses, you'll know more about what features/perks of being a sub you really care about, and if the contrast (being pref) is enough to sub on a recurring plan or if you just want to buy certain unlocks and sub intermittently.

Now Here's a paste of my "short sub guide";


I thought the same as you. I bought the Amazon 3m sub (extra coins, cheaper than 3x 1m sub, etc) thinking the same way as you. I've been sub'd ever since. Ops are addictive... and once you have all the perks thinking of going back is cringy.


  • If you don't have active toons but have done stories, there's not much prep you really need to do... if you do, decide which you want to be your main, and make sure that one ends up with all the goodies.
  • Get at least a toon to 50 so you can spend most of your time at cap once you sub, and doing the sub-exclusive stuff.
  • You can plan out a bit as far as what you like goes; if you know what roles/classes you enjoyed playing it would be a good start. The sub-exclusive content starts off fairly easy (groupfinder ops, easy uprisings, etc), but it's best to at least kinda know your class and have a main to do stuff on.
  • put 1k cartel coins aside and don't use it. Since you'll be dropping server slots, etc, it will be wise to transfer one toon (with some starter credits, other useful items and so on) to the other NA server right before your sub dies to duplicate your legacy. More on this at the bottom.
  • Join a guild that does events. Can do this once you sub, but it's not something that needs to wait, so~
  • Download Teamspeak, Discord, and set them up. Some things benefit from voice comms, and adding a server is far quicker than having to download and set up stuff while people wait.
  • You can also download/install starparse to see how you're doing. It's not really needed, but once you get good gear you might be interested in seeing where your DPS stands.
  • If you plan to do groupfinder operations (esp if you're hoping to try some hard mode ones), it's a good idea to look up guides/vids just so you have a slightly better idea of what they're like. Not needed, but~
  • Buy the starter strongholds. A week or two ago, DK was 6 credits, so I assume Coruscant is as well. Might as well buy them now and set up a bit.
    • Go to fleet and check out public strongholds; that will give you an idea on which you might like to buy/unlock once you have enough credits
  • You can pass time by grinding heroics, etc for credits. Legacy bank (you get one once you have a SH and do a lvl 15 mission on fleet) lets you skip escrow as f2p, and escrow goes back into your wallet anyway once you sub.
  • See if there are any 2x XP events or other things you might want to be sub'd for to maximize your time.


  • Use a referral code once you are sub'd; this will let you keep all three crew skills when your sub runs out, extra week of sub time, etc. You might also get a few mil from someone.
  • Try to get at least one person to use your referral code; it gives you a speeder that has a constant 110% speed, even at piloting 1 (all other are at 90% at that skill level).
  • If you like certain races (sans togruta/cathar) you can make them for free, so DO so. Once these are leveled to 50 the race unlocks for free and you can use them on any new future toons (see last section for why this is important)
  • For speed leveling, Get kicked to Yavin by a friend or kind stranger (for max effect, buy full exploration character perk + run a boost, then either start doing heroics or just grind mobs at [A Question of Motivation] (imp) to get to 70. Save story for later, though be sure to at least have your ship for toons you plan to do events on (summons requires ship).
  • You want to get to 70 and start earning CXP, because that's where gear comes from, and you can only earn it while you're a sub. Save your tokens, save gold shells since those can be upgraded later (if you PvP).
  • Do groupfinder operations.
    • They're sub-only, and they're fun as hell (even SM, at first)
    • They drop tier 2 gear, which you roll on (etiquette is 1/person unless stated otherwise, then greed on them)
    • You want to do Eternity Vault and Karagga's Palace at first. Stay away from pug Ravagers and Dread anything for a bit until you get used to them and hopefully catch good groups.
    • You want to have plenty of time to do them; since you'll be pugging assume 2h as a minimum window before you have to go. They usually take less with a good group, but you don't want to have to leave before finishing them
    • You can do each operation once per week per toon (per difficulty, but unless you really REALLY like them and are willing to put in a LOT of work you probably won't get to do the higher difficulties... maybe EV/KP), so stay away from "Last Boss lockout runs" or ask groups if they're doing full runs when you join. Once you kill a boss all previous ones auto-lock for you for that week.
    • SAY you are new, ASK when you don't understand and read/listen carefully. Many times people are more than willing to explain, but don't want to wipe 5x+ before asking if you're new. This also goes for flashpoints.
  • Do uprisings (or at least try them); they're like mini flashpoints without cutscenes, etc. I personally dislike them, but SM ones are worth trying while you can.
  • Grind heroics and work the GTN, ETC to make credits, and spend them on various stuff that's above f2p/pref credit cap
    • Unlock strongholds; buy the fun ones. I personally love NS the most, but YMMV
    • Unlock global perks in legacy for credits. Quick travel, rocket boost, mount while moving, etc are all great investments
  • Try out various specs of classes, since they don't cost anything to swap around as a sub. You want to know what to leave toons at once it runs out.
  • Buy/get legacy shells and augment them, then use those to gear. Ripping insides/augmenting is cheaper as a sub

    Right Before Sub Ends

  • Decide which toons (if you made too many) you will be keeping active; get anything important off the others, put in cargo hold/legacy (inc all credits in the legacy bank)
  • On mains check to make sure all outfits have the hide head on/off on various outfits; these will stay but lock when sub runs out, so any outfit slot with hide head will still have hide head, until you sub again. Make sure you leave a few with head showing in case you later make outfits you want helmets visible on, etc
  • Pick one toon and transfer it to the other server. This will copy your legacy and global unlocks, race unlocks, etc.
    • Buy strongholds on that server. Once the base is bought, all the unlocks from the other server are auto-unlocked
    • Send this toon with money, etc. so you can jumpstart future toons.
    • This costs 1k cc atm, but saves you all those unlock costs and other achievements you've done.
  • Make sure all but 350k are in your legacy bank, not on your character
  • Pop all CXP packs and make sure all gear is done right/augmented/in legacy shells
  • NOW buy any vanity items you want off the GTN
  • Make sure all toons you want to play are in the right spec, etc.
  • Double check that there's nothing you forgot to do/try out

    Once it ends

  • Say "screw it" and renew the sub...
u/Oseirus · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

A few disclaimers:

I know I'm late to the punch, and I apologize. I also know I'm going to look like a crazy person for throwing so many items at you, so I apologize for that as well. I may also seem vaguely arrogant by the end of this, so please accept a third apology. I just like to take care of my electronics is all. My only credentials are anecdotal evidence that despite my rather rough job I've never even so much as cracked the screen on my cell phone so I like to think I'm pretty good at the "how do I prevent breakages" question.

Okay. So, I'm gonna rattle off a few items that I've bought for my own Switch, and my reasoning behind them. You DO NOT have to buy all of these items, but they are all useful on some level for the console.

The Joy-Con Controller If you're looking to get a second controller, start here. I'm sure you've figured out by now that one Joy-Con (JC) can be reconfigured to work as two controllers, so simply by buying a second JC you're now able to hit the 4-player local maximum for many of the Switch's games (including Mario Kart!). You can get the spouse, another kid, or even some friends playing during a party.

The Switch Pro Controller A more traditional-style controller. It's slightly cheaper and it's much more comfortable on large hands, but it CANNOT be split into two separate controllers like the Joy-Con can. Well, unless you get a saw or something but then it won't work at all anymore. Besides that it does function exactly the same as the standard JC controllers. There is also a wired version available that is even cheaper, but I personally have become spoiled in this wireless age and don't like cables dangling across my living room anymore.

Fitian Charging Dock for Joy-Cons Pretty self explanatory. Normally you charge your Joy-Cons by plugging them into the Switch, but if you have a second (or more) JC, it becomes a slight hassle to keep them all charged up. A charging dock can be a godsend. This is the one I use, simply plug it straight into your Switch Dock via USB.

FastSnail Joy-Con Grips There's a gazillion different versions of these things floating around, but these are the ones I personally use. I like them cause the shoulder L/R buttons are massive, and the grippy parts are really comfortable for extended use. Simply stick your Joy-Con halves into the plastic holders for a more comfortable grip. Holds them securely but they're still easy to pop back out as needed, no latches or screws or anything.

Orzly Carry Case ONE option for a carrying case. I was a little hesitant to recommend this particular item, but I may as well cause again, it's the one I use. The case itself is fine: durable, carries your Switch plus some games and accessories, and keeps them safe through your standards drops and bumps. However, if you fill it up as much as is shown in the pictures there on Amazon... At best you're gonna feel like you're mashing something, at worst you're gonna have trouble zipping it closed. What I've ended up doing is putting my Switch with an attached set of JCs, the games, and my adjustable stand (see next item) into the case, and then tossing the case plus whatever other particular accessories I need into my backpack. This case is NOT good to haul a lot of Switch stuff, JUST the console itself plus a handful of small bits for maybe a day trip or something. If you want to carry everything, look elsewhere. I've seen a few cases mentioned, but I can't recommend anything as I haven't tried anything.

Younik Compact Adjustable Stand I love this thing. If you're playing on the go and don't feel like holding it (and don't trust that stupid little kick stand on the back), you can unfold this thing and prop up the Switch on any flat surface for a much more comfortable viewing able. When you're done with it, you can fold it back flat and it fits nicely pretty much anywhere (like, for example, in the Orzly case I mentioned previously). Nintendo makes a first-party adjustable stand, but I actually like this one better. It costs a couple dollars less and feels sturdier. Its a luxury item to be sure, but it's nice to have when you want it.

Findway Protective Case A protective "jacket" for the Switch itself. I like this one because it snaps on and off of the Switch and JCs super easily, and is a sort of bendable plastic. Only 3 pieces: one for the tablet, and then one piece each for the left and right JCs. Easy to clean, too. Only drawback is that you HAVE to remove the jacket any time you want to dock the Switch in its charger. However, you're going to find that this is the case for any jacket that you want to buy for your Switch. You do NOT need to remove the jacket if you're simply sticking it in the aforementioned Adjustable Stand.

Pleson Tempered Glass Screen Protector Not much explanation needed here. I'm neurotic about getting screen protectors for all of my portable electronics, and I love the tempered glass ones. This one is cheap, it's durable, and it's easy to install with a steady hand. HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend, even if only to keep your Switch looking nice through the wear and tear. You won't need to remove it for the dock, unlike the jacket.

I think that's everything for now. Again, I know it's a lot being thrown at you all at once, but you don't have to buy everything. This is all just stuff I've amassed for my own Switch that I've found useful or that I recommend. Pick and choose as you see fit. Feel free to shop around as well, these are just examples of all the particular items and there are MANY choices available for almost everything listed.

If you have any questions, I'm always happy to help.

u/cocobandicoot · 10 pointsr/PS3

A bit of a novel, but I hope you find this helpful, OP.

First, to comment on what happened on your call with Microsoft: maybe it's possible you just got one of the really bad reps? But then again, they got a supervisor involved and they still wouldn't just fix the situation for you? Especially seeing as you hadn't even used your subscription... that is pretty ridiculous. Well, I'm confident that you'll find the PlayStation experience an enjoyable one.


Honestly, this is probably the best time to try out a PS3. We're closing out on this generation of consoles and some of the best games of the last few years have been PlayStation exclusives. Especially if you've been using an Xbox 360 this whole time, you're about ready to meet a whole new world of incredible titles.

Quick edit: Just wanted to clarify... I'm including links to Amazon just as an easy way for you to learn more about individual titles. But just as /u/undeadwolfy mentioned:

>You can buy most of these pre-owned at a decent price. Some are digital so they're not much cheaper but still great.

So first and foremost, I highly recommend anything by Naughty Dog -- they are arguably the best developer in the entire industry right now. They released four titles on the PS3: Uncharted 1, 2 & 3 (each game is a must-play), and the absolute masterpiece that is The Last of Us. You've probably heard plenty of praise for The Last of Us (and it is well deserved), but I would recommend saving the best for last. It's such an awesome game that, after completing it, nothing else I played interested me anymore. It took like a month to get back into the gaming groove, so I'd save that 'til after you beat the Uncharted trilogy. It's that good.

Aside from that, there are some other great titles I'd highly recommend. I don't know what kind of games you're into, so I'll just list all those that I've liked, personally:

  • Metal Gear Solid saga (MGS 1-3 were released on PS1 & PS2, but they've since been rereleased in HD for PS3, alongside MGS 4).

  • Heavy Rain (A very story driven game, where the choices you make can drastically affect the storyline. Plus... boobs.)

  • Beyond Two Souls (Brand new, just came out. Similar to Heavy Rain in its execution -- story driven.)

  • God of War trilogy (Awesome, mature platformer. The first two games were for PS2, but were released in HD alongside GOW3 on PS3. Also has boobs.)

  • Little Big Planet 1 or 2 (A great couch multiplayer side scroller. Lots of fun, more of a kids game... or a game to play with drunk adults.)

  • Infamous 1 & 2 (An interactive comic book. An "open world" platformer that lets you shoot lightning from your hands. Has a cool element where you can choose to be good or evil.)

    Not to mention plenty of other great exclusives (Rachet & Clank series, Resistance trilogy, Valkyria Chronicles and more) and the tons of PS1 and PS2 games on the PlayStation Store for cheap, playable on your PS3 if you want to go old school. (Not to mention the many PS2 games being rereleased for PS3 in HD glory... I'd recommend Shadow of the Colossus, which happens to be free for PlayStation Plus members this month... hint hint.) Of course, all the multiplatform games are also here (Battlefield, Bioshock, Call of Duty, Grand Theft Auto, etc.).

  • Oh, did I mention the PS3's online multiplayer is free?
  • And if you've got Netflix, you don't need to pay Sony a cent to watch it (unlike a certain other console's "Gold" requirement).

    That said, however, if you really want to jump in the game, PlayStation Plus is worth every penny -- a ton of free games each month (and we're talking major titles, in addition to a handful of indies), plus a large variety of other system-enhancing features and discounts. And if you're looking at getting a PS4, getting PS+ is a no-brainer. For one, it is required for online multiplayer on the PS4 (no such requirement on the PS3, but hey, they've got to make their money somehow). But what's awesome is that one PS+ account will work across both the PS3 & PS4, and enable you to get free games for each console for as long as you are a subscriber, with free games on the PS4 appearing on day one.

    Welcome to the new age. Now cue up some Imagine Dragons and get ready for a freaking awesome experience. We're glad to have you.
u/DragonDai · 1 pointr/swtor

Well, first off, I can only assume you're the person who gave me the gold. So yeah, thanks for popping my gold cherry! :D

As for resubbing, the benefits of resubbing before level 50 are REALLY small, especially between now and the beginning of December (cause there's a server wide XP boost that helps negate the XP penalty for not being subscribed). That being said, they are big enough, IMO, to warrant the cash. If nothing else, subscribing on or after the second of December will get you the new DLC (which launches on the 2nd) for all your characters forever (as well as any other DLC you're missing unlocked for all your characters forever as well).

And Amazon has been running a REALLY good deal for a while. Here's a link:

(Disclaimer, that link is via an affiliate link for my favorite Twitch streamer. My browser automatically sends all Amazon traffic through the affiliate link. It's way more hassle to get the non-affiliate link then it is to just post a disclaimer. So use that link for reference purposes only unless you want to help support a random Twitch streamer at no cost to yourself lol).

That's 3 months of time for 40 bucks (instead of 42 bucks or whatever it is normally), but you also get 20 bucks worth of Cartel Coins (the in game premium money) and a cute little baby rancor pet for all your characters forever. So you save a couple extra bucks on the sub, get a BUNCH of free Cartel Coins, and a little buddy to adventure with.

There is also a referral code I or any other subscriber can give you if you haven't been a subscriber in 90 days. It gives you some nice stuff including 7 days worth of Subscriber benefits (sans the DLC unlocks). If you're going to subscribe anyway, it's worth getting someone's code for the free 7 days and the goodies (the nicest of which is a free row of inventory space for all your characters forever). I'll be happy to supply a referral code if you want it, but if you know someone playing, they get some small but nice benefits, including Cartel Coins, if you end up subbing, so no hard feelings if you got a friend that plays or something and you'd rather use their code.

As for the text being small, the game features and EXTREMELY robust interface editor that will let you increase the size of individual elements (as well as move them, hide them, etc). This could be used on the tool tips box to increase it and therefore increase the size of the text. And since the tool tips box is a popup, it wouldn't get in the way of actually playing the game, even if you made it gigantic.

SWTOR is one of those MMOs where each class gets a billion abilities. I have 24 abilities mapped to my mouse alone and still have a couple more (like Stealth on my Consular or my 60 minute class buff or my quick travel button) that aren't bound to any key and I click when I need them. That being said, most classes have a "core" of about a half dozen abilities that really define how they are played, with everything else being either some sort of utility ability (like a stun or a defensive/offensive cooldown) or an AoE or situational ability.

This means that, starting out, you'll only have a couple of buttons to work with and, for the most part, they'll be the "key" abilities that you build your combat rotation around. Sure, a couple abilities may get replaced by something else (Slice on the Jedi Guardian is a great example), but most of them are gana be used from the moment you get them all the way through max level/raiding.

Because of this, they sort of build "out" in terms of complexity, if that makes sense. The stuff you get for the first 20-30 levels is the "core." The big abilities that define the class. As you go, these abilities will generally be the ones getting modified by the passive abilities you'll get automatically as you level. And these passives are what enable your core abilities to interact with your utility or situational skills, which you get later on.

So, my advice for overcoming the complexity of an MMO like SWTOR is to start with the basics. Identify which skills are you "builders (the ones that grant resources) which are your "spender fillers" (the ones that spend resources and just do damage, and not a lot else and are best used when you have nothing else to do), which are single target/AoE "power" skills (the BIG buttons that cost a lot of resources and produce big results, via damage, temporary crowd control, etc), and which skills you can safely relegate to the hard to reach buttons cause they're not something you're using a lot.

Once you get the abilities separated into the broad categories outlined above, you can make decisions about which abilities work best in which situations by viewing how they interact with each other via the passive abilities and via trial and error out in the world.

It sounds complicated, but really it's just about compartmentalizing everything into manageable, bite-sized chunks. Once you do that, you see how the compartments connect to each other, and everything falls into place, becoming second nature. And that's when games like this get really, really enjoyable, IMO.

Suddenly, your Jedi is dancing across the battlefield, force leaping from one enemy to the next, giant, sweeping strikes cleaving down a slew of enemies, massive overhead swings dishing out the hurt on the baddie's leaders, etc, etc, etc. SWTOR has really enjoyable LOOKING combat, which is something I think a lot of MMOs lack. And once you get your rhythm down, you can really enjoy it.

So yeah, I really hope you give the game a try again. Even if you're still struggling with combat, the leveling content (which is 95% of the games story) is worth experiencing. It's really fantastic writing and I think a lot of people end up missing out on some fantastically written and voice acted Star Wars stories because of the way the game plays. And that's a shame.

But I have every confidence that with a little practise and determination that you'll do just fine. So yeah, thanks again for the gold, and I hope you enjoy whatever time you end up spending in the game. :)

u/LordZelgadis · 53 pointsr/GameDeals

It unlocks all current expansions, gives you a free level 65 character token and a free walker mount for every character you have.

It does not change the status of free accounts though.

You can upgrade your account to "preferred" by buying cartel coins or buying the $5 digital deluxe upgrade. This removes or eases a lot of restrictions. I wont lie, free accounts are horrifically gimped. Preferred accounts are what "free" should have been but I think the reason for the paywall is to combat spammers.

Anyone wanting to experience the full unrestricted game should try the Amazon Premium pack. It's 3 months of subscription time, 2400 cartel coins and a pet for $40, which is $5 less than the cost of 3 months subscription time and the amount of coins you'd get from a $20 pack, so the whole thing is worth about $65. You can only use the pack once per account. Everything else advertised for the pack is stuff everyone gets for subscribing their first time.

I'd recommend saving any cartel coins you have for legacy ("Y" shortcut Key -> "GLOBAL UNLOCKS" left side menu -> "Other" left side menu -> "Convenience" right side) unlocks, specifically rocket boost and improved mounting. Aside from that, unlocking inventory space (for the entire account, not just one character) is a good use for them. There's some other convenience legacy unlocks you might like, specifically Legacy Travel, but I only bought the first one since being subbed reduces the cooldown to 6 minutes which is maybe 30 seconds longer than you might spend on a NPC conversation in-between quick travels.

It's worth noting that subs get 500 cartel coins free each month and you can get 100 coins free each month regardless of whether you sub or not, by using their authenticator app. You can also get some coins for certain achievements. The easiest one to do is the one you get (20 coins each) for completing the starter planet for each of the 8 classes.

It'd be wise to look at cartel coins as being worth $0.01 USD each. So, if you pay 100 coins for an unlock, you effectively spent $1 on it. It helps put things in perspective, so you don't just waste them on some cosmetic junk or useless unlocks (some really are useless.) I mean, they have a lightsaber (all cartel gear has the same stats and provides no real benefit in combat by itself, you have to buy, with in-game credits, or craft mods to make them useful) that costs 5,700 coins, effectively $57 USD. I just can't see spending $57 on a cosmetic weapon but I'm sure some people do it. Sure, it's cool looking but it's just not worth that for most people. They'll also charge you probably around $4 or $5 in coins to unlock it for your entire account, since cartel items typically only unlock for the character that it was bound to, even though that adds it to your collection. They do like to nickel and dime cosmetics. That said, most unlocks can be bought with credits, instead of cartel coins. The problem is Free accounts have a credit cap of 200k and Preferred have a cap of 350k, so any unlock more expensive than that will require you to either be subbed or to spend cartel coins. Since, you can get 100 coins free each month, even on a Free account, it's still possible to get all of the unlocks without spending any money, eventually. You might have a really long wait trying to unlock everything at the rate of 100 coins a month though.

The biggest cartel coin pack you can normally buy is $40 for 5,500 coins but Amazon has a $100 pack for 14,500 coins, which is 750 more than you'd get buying 2.5 x $40 packs. So, it's not that big of a bargain compared to the $40 pack, which gives about 700 bonus coins compared to the $20 pack of 2400 coins. Ultimately, you shouldn't waste money on cartel coins directly. You're better off sticking to the free ones and the ones you get with a sub. The one exception would be maybe spending coins on a mount with "exceptional" resistance to being dismounted. Even then, it's probably best not to waste your money on it.

As a bit of a side note, you get a free pet when you buy cartel coin packs on Amazon but they look very much like the pet you get with their premium pack with the 3 months of sub time.

Finally, leveling up your legacy is super slow, since it's based off of a percentage of the exp you get. If you don't mind spoiling the story for yourself, you could use a lvl 65 boosted character to speed up leveling your legacy and as a quick way to get into higher level crafting, for profit. That said, expect some major spoilers, if you do. It's generally recommended that most people should avoid using boosted characters due to the way it makes a lot of story decisions for you but, if you know what you're getting into and want to anyways, it's your time to spend how you want.

It's generally recommended you either level a character to 60/65 before using a boost. The reason is because boosted characters don't count towards race or class story unlocks and you can't go back and complete them because they're auto-completed for you. There's 8 class stories, 4 for each faction, that you have to complete to unlock legendary status.

These are all the things I wished I'd known when I started.

u/TheOnyxHero · 1 pointr/wow


I just came back like 3 weeks ago and some opinions of my own and changes to the game (not all changes but some)

The KOTFE and 4.0 changes have changed the game to be more Single player orientated, but there are still MMO elements, Ops, PVP, events, etc. I myself haven't played since a few months after launch, so for me, there's lots of content to go through.

You have the base game 1-50, 8 class stories, Rise of the Hutt Cartel expansion, Shadow of Revan expansion and the new Knights of the Fallen Empire, which was partially released and a new chapter is coming every month, starting February, with chapter 10.

The 1-50 story with all 8 classes are free to play, but to level above 50 and do the other expansions, you have to sub. $14.99 is the sub rate and you get all 3 expansions, and currently up to Chapter 10 in Knights of the Fallen Empire.

They also have a story-synch mechanic, where you'll scale down to the level of the planet, but still keep all your abilities and talents.

All flashpoints and Ops have been scaled to 65, the current max level, and also most flashpoints have a solo mode now (rewards are bad though, but it's for the story). Problem with this though is, they have not added any new FPs or Operations with the new expansion and none have been planned, as of yet. So, this has hurt the PVE community with a good amount of people leaving, but there are still a good amount playing.

There are also a lot of other changes that would just make this post very long.

But anyway, lots of content I never did, and probably a lot of other people who quit shortly after launch. The stories are nice if you're into that, PVP is still somewhat fun, but I haven't jumped much into that. PVE has a lot of raids currently since all the old ones were scaled to max level and there are 3 mods, Story Mode (LFR), Hard Mode (Slightly harder than WOW normal) and Nightmare (Probably easier than mythic, but harder than WOW heroic). I haven't done a whole lot of raiding outside of some SM and easier HMs, but I am looking to get deeper.

I do have my concerns with the game and what Bioware is doing. I am just gonna stick around for a bit, I have a 90-day sub right now, from so see where it goes. The game is fun, for new/returning players, but some veterans feel like Bioware hasn't treated them well. The player base of most games do complain, so I am trying to find my own opinion before jumping into the hate bandwagon. Populations of the servers seem alright, but PVP servers are pretty dead, but PVE servers are pretty bumping. There are 3 big populated servers for NA and one EU.

There is player and guild housing called Strong Holds and Guild ships, but I haven't jumped much into it and there's a ton of features there, but I haven't done much of it.

Oh, and yes the engine has gotten somewhat better, but it still needs a lot of work, but I just don't know if it ever will.

And the CASH SHOP. It's NOT Pay 2 win. All the items in cash shop are pretty much all Cosmetic. There are some dumb restrictions to F2P, but I feel this game is more Free to Trial then really Free to Play, though a good amount of people do play Free. Also like I said, you can just buy a month unlock everything then go free, but be sure to purchase all you want when you're a sub because as soon as sub ends, the 350k credit cap comes in. The F2P aspect is REALLY restricting imo, and you'd be very much better served to sub.

There's a lot of other stuff as well I didn't talk about here.


Referral link for new player/returning players:

New Players

>New players can play free up to Level 50 with no time limit and also receive the Jumpstart Bundle with boosts and items for faster leveling.

>Jumpstart Bundle includes:
>1x Quick Travel Pass
>5x Minor XP Boost
>1x Inventory Module

Returning Players

>Previous Subscribers enjoy seven days of subscription level access with unlimited access to missions and features up to Level 50 plus the following:

>Preferred Friends Bundle includes:
>Unlock: Inventory Module
>Unlock: Crew Skill Slot
>Customization Control: Display Titles
>Customization Control: Unify Colors
>One Complimentary Character Transfer for the lifetime of the account. For a full list of Subscriber benefits, visit

New Players get some premium unlocks, not as great as returning players though as they get 7-day sub, free transfer and some other unlocks. THOUGH, the 7-DAY SUB AS RETURNING PLAYER DOES NOT UNLOCK THE EXPANSIONS OR ALLOW YOU TO LEVEL PAST 50!

TL;DR, SWTOR, I missed the last 4 years of content, so I am jumping in, you should too! It's free and if returning players get ya 7 day sub with my referal link:

u/zmattk · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

First, I agree with everyone else so far. The most important things are screen protector, micro SD card, and a carrying case. Second, what you buy will depend on how you will primarily play. If you are using it as your home console on a TV, you'll need different accessories than if you are going to play while travelling. And if you play while travelling, are you going to play tabletop with joycons detached or in handheld mode? Or you can do all 3 and buy everything :)

For the essentials, here's what I'm using right now

Butterfox Case: link

For your travel case, consider what you want with you. The case I use is great to throw in a backpack and have my Switch with me for quick gaming. If you want to travel with a dock so you can actually play everywhere with friends, you'll want something to accommodate that.

Screen Protector: link

One note on the micro SD card. You'll definitely want one with a good amount of storage if you plan on going digital. If you are mostly physical, you can get away with not having one for a while, but you'll probably need one. When purchasing one, make sure you get one from a reputable source. I just watched a YouTube video yesterday on how easy it is to essentially hack a micro SD card to say it has a lot more storage than it actually has. So anything extremely cheap coming from China might not be what you want.

For other accessories that are alittle more exciting, here's a list of the things I also recommend:

Portable Charger: You'll need one that has enough power to charge the Switch. Here's two that I have found work well. The Anker charger is significantly more expensive than the RAVPower, and neither are really cheap, but you'll get a lot of use out of it, and they can work for other electronic devices as well.



Portable Stand: The Switch's kickstand is pretty bad for tabletop mode. It's not adjustable and you cannot charge at the same time. Getting a portable stand fixes both of these problems. One like this is my personal favorite portable stand. You get more viewing angles than the plastic folding ones and you can use this with multiple devices as well. However, the Hori one or one similar to that works perfectly fine as well.

Pro Controller or Extra Joy Cons: Depends on your preference. I'd go with the Pro Controller if you're planning on playing mostly single player games. The extra set of Joy Cons are nice for multiplayer though as it allows 2 people to play with full controllers, or 4 people to play with a single joy con (aka Mario Kart).

If you go with the extra Joy Cons, I'd also suggest Joy Con Grips. While they might not look the best, it is a significant upgrade to holding the Joy Cons by themselves. They work perfectly fine for multiplayer Mario Kart.

As for games, with you just getting the Switch, I'd probably just stick with Odyssey and BotW for now. There's more than enough content for probably a couple of months depending on how quick you play through the stories. But if you're looking for multiplayer games, I'd probably start with Mario Kart. It's a classic that almost everyone loves and can play up to 4 players. Splatoon 2 is probably my next favorite to play besides Odyssey and BotW if that's your type of game and you really want something else. But everyone is different so if something stands out to you, then you'll probably know better than me what you'd like!

edit: formatting

u/Richard_MF_Nixon · 3 pointsr/hoggit

>What do I need in a computer/hardware to run this game optimally

Broadly speaking- A 4th Gen Intel i5 or better for the CPU. GTX 1060 or better for your Graphics. 16GB of RAM, and a Solid State Drive for storing the game on. DCS has some long loading times, and the SSD will cut them down as much as possible. For VR, the Graphics Card will manage but I recommend a GTX 1070 or above.

One problem you'll have getting a gaming PC right now is that RAM and Graphics Cards are both in short supply and supply. As such their prices have gone up quite a bit. Graphics cards doubling in price in some cases. While I would typically recommend building your own PC due to price and quality reasons, a prebuilt PC may actually be cheaper now. Make sure you ask around, both with your friend and on here before you buy one. We'll set you straight.

> I also am considering going VR with Rift for full immersion, would that require addition components and is it worth it?

Personally I think VR is absolutely worth it. I've had my Oculus Rift for nearly a year now and have put a few hundred hours into DCS with it. You can usually demo VR units in places like Fry's Electronics or other such shops. Sometimes even Best Buy. Give it a try some time. VR will come with everything you need out of the box. Except the Computer, of course.

>Any helpful input is much appreciated.

As far as other stuff, you'll need a Flight Stick and Throttle (HOTAS). I typically recommend the Thrustmaster T.16000M as a starter all-round HOTAS. It's built well, has a lot of buttons, and is precise. You could get something lower-end, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you have something particular you want to fly, other HOTAS sets might be better suited, but the T.16000M will do anything well.

Pedals are helpful but not really something I would urge you get unless you're planning on flying Helicopters. Especially the Huey. You need a good Rudder input to tame it. If I had to recommend a set for the average user it'd probably be the CH Pro Pedals Get them used though. Trust me when I say this- CH kit are built like tanks. Get them second hand from a good Ebay seller and pocket the extra cash.

If you end up deciding to go without VR, then you will need a headtracker of some sort. They work by using a camera and some software to track the position of some Infrared LEDs attached to a hat or headset, then translate that into an input in game. This lets you look around your cockpit. That may not sound like much but it's a game changer. The official product is called TrackIR5. I don't recommend you get this. While it is the easiest to set up and is perfectly good quality, it is vastly overpriced. Trackhat or Delanclip make good products. Pair that with this camera and you're good to go.

I know that's a lot of info but DCS can be a little daunting to get into, especially if you're not already versed in PC gaming. Hopefully this helped and if you have any questions feel free to PM me :)

u/Morrow28 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I take my switch with me a lot, so my favorite accessory is my backpack. I have one of these:

It has specific pouches for everything. Multiple Joycon Controllers, your pro controller, your switch itself, your power cord and hdmi cord, your dock, your headphones, little zipper pouches for your games. Instead of putting my switch in the switch pocket, I leave it in my hard case, and I put a portible stand in the switch pocket.

Other accessories I enjoy:

-Pro controller for more comfort in docked mode, or for better control in fortnite and other multiplayer shooters.

-Portible stand for better tabletop play. The switch has a kickstand, but it can start to lose support and stop working, but it also is low to the table, only has 1 angle, and you can't charge your system while using the kickstand. I have this one:

-USB to usb-c converter. This is only if you have a wired controller like me. I like to play fortnite from time to time on my break, and I use my controller. But since it's wired, I bought the converter and I can plug it into my switch while I'm away from my dock. But it you get him wireless this won't be necessary.

-Screen protector. For obvious reasons 😁. Preferably a tempered glass one, not plastic.

-Car charger

-Carrying case. I prefer the medium thickness. Usually they're themed, I have a blue Zelda one. Hard shell is better, but usually not themed and is plain. I don't like soft cases at all.

Accessories I don't have but thought about buying:

-Dock Sock. Some people have had their system scratched by the dock, or have had someone else scratch it while docking it. The dock has hard plastic inside of it for some reason, and it can come into contact with the switch and scratch it if your not careful. The dock sock just adds a layer of cloth between the hard plastic and your screen. Not necessary, but can help, and you can find a ton of cool designs on etsy and other sites.

-Dock light. Can't be used with dock sock. Just makes the outside of your dock look cool.

-Better grip for handheld mode. A lot of people like them, I just didn't get one because it doesn't fit in my case and I'm too lazy to attach and separate them every time.

-Switch decals. Make your switch look cooler. I'd only buy from Nintendo as some 3rd party ones werent made correctly and fried people's systems.

-Replacement faceplates. Like decals, but it's completely new plastic casing. Some are awesome, like the ond school nes look or Gameboy crystal purple. They can be a pain to install though, and may void warranty (I don't know for sure, just a guess).

Games I like:


-Zelda Breath of the Wild
-Stardew Valley (Now has multiplayer but I think online only, not split screen, could be wrong though)
-Hollow Knight

Solo I haven't bought but heard are good:

-Dark Souls
-Binding of Issac

Solo or Split Screen Co-op:

-Snipper Clips
-Mario (Really any of them, though odyssey is less fun for player 2 as you just play as the hat)
-Pokemon Let's Go

Solo or SS Co-op I don't have but heard are good:

-Lovers in a Dangerous Space Time
-Splatoon 2
-Boxboy Boxgirl

I'd also suggest you get him Nintendo online. It's free for a year if you have Amazon prime, or $20 a year if you don't. You can't play online multiplayer without it. You also get to download an app on your switch that has a bunch of old school games on it like super Mario, super Mario 2, super Mario 3, Dr. Mario, legend of link, legend of zelda, and a bunch of others. All of them are free as long as you have Nintendo online, and they add new games every month I think.

Long read, but hopefully it helps! Your giving him a gift he can enjoy for a long time, and there is so much to play on this system it's crazy. There are a ton of cheap indy games as well. So you could always just get him a Nintendo Eshop card and let him buy whatever looks good to him if you want. Tons of stuff $20 and lower, and there is always a ton on sale.

u/kratosauron0 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I looked online and saw prices ranging from $300-500. Is there any difference between these consoles other than the skin?

The $300 base model of the Nintendo Switch ( does not include any games, but is still what you should most likely buy. More expensive models may have games bundled or free in-game currency (e.g. Fortnite), but they shouldn't be more than $350 (plus tax). At $360, you're not really saving any money, and anything more expensive than THAT is from a third party trying to make a quick buck. The console itself currently has few variations; most of your customization will depend on what color controllers you get with the console.

What type of accessories am I going to need?

This depends on your use case. I'd recommend getting a screen protector ( If you expect to bring the Switch out of the house a lot, also get a case ( Anything else, like special controllers ( or a dock cover (, is largely unnecessary right now; look into them when you find you need extra joy-cons ( or a tabletop stand ( for your Switch. In the end, you should not be spending more than $400 for the Switch, one game, and core accessories.

As for games, so far I planned on buying Smash Bros, Let's Go Pikachu, and One's Justice. Can you recommend any other games? I was never into Zelda but hear the new game is very good.

How old is your kid? Super Mario Odyssey ( is fun, and has a great co-op mode if you want to play together. Mario Kart 8 Deluxe is also always a blast ( I'm also a huge fan of Splatoon 2 (, but it's probably better for older kids because it requires more dexterity. There's lots of games to recommend, but it'll help to know what your kid already likes... or what you want your kid to like ;)

Side note: To play online, you need Nintendo Switch Online ( It's $20 a year for one ACCOUNT, or $35 a year for 8 accounts. Each account also has separate save files, if multiple people will be playing on the same Switch. Smash Ultimate and Mario Kart both have online modes, but Splatoon's primary game modes are online-only.

Whats the difference between mario party and mario space odyssey?

Super Mario Odyssey is an action-platformer for the Nintendo Switch. Super Mario Party is a virtual board game for the Nintendo Switch. Super Mario Galaxy is an action-platformer for the Wii, a completely different console.

Let us know if you have follow-up questions!

u/pmo2408 · 38 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I was Xbox forever, started a new job on the road and decided to go for the switch as well for portability. Good choice.


Must Buys Accessories:

Screen protector - there is a 2 pack on amazon:

amFilm Tempered Glass Screen Protector for Nintendo Switch 2017 (2-Pack)

SD card (if going digital with games) - maybe go 256gb, amazon has a sale on them, you only need U1 speeds for the switch:

SanDisk 256GB Ultra microSDXC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter - 100MB/s, C10, U1, Full HD, A1, Micro SD Card - SDSQUAR-256G-GN6MA

Carrying cases - I have two, one for the whole collection (switch, joycons, dock, charger, hdmi):

AmazonBasics Travel and Storage Case for Nintendo Switch - Black

And one for the switch in handheld mode. I use both quite frequently:

Orzly Carry Case Compatible With Nintendo Switch - RED Protective Hard Portable Travel Carry Case Shell Pouch for Nintendo Switch Console & Accessories

Pro controller - easier to play games in docked mode than the joycons.


Smash is out next Friday, but it looks like the best game of the year material.


Pokémon Let’s Go is a spin off, remake of yellow version, but it is a great game. Maybe not $60 great for gameplay, but for nostalgia. I’d say a fair price is around $40.


Games suggested:

Must Play Exclusives:

Zelda: BOTW (10/10) little bit of a learning curve, but open world game with 100+ hours of content

Super Mario Odyssey (9.5/10) very laid back and at times almost too easy, but overall very fun and creative. 30 hours of content


Exclusives W/ Friends or Online:

Mario Kart 8 (9/10)

Super Mario Party Switch (8.5/10)


Other Top Tier Exclusives:

Splatoon (8.5/10) (may be stressful online, but awesome game for both online play and “salmon runs”)

Donkey Kong Tropical Freeze (8.5/10) (tough game but such awesome level design, music; this game can become frustrating)

Mario Rabbids (8.5/10) (fun game, again, can become frustrating as it is a strategy, turn based game with Nintendo characters)

Pokémon Let’s Go (8.5/10) (fun game, super nostalgic trip back to the past of Pokémon origins but now in 3D with alolan forms)

We still don’t know about Super Smash Bros Ulitmate, but I can’t imagine it won’t be a 9 or 9.5 out of 10.

Golf story is the next exclusive game I’ll be getting some time down the road, very hit or miss with people however.

Disclaimer: I don’t really get non exclusives on switch, as I can get them on PC for cheap 9/10 times (except red dead). Also, I do not care for JRPG’s, so I can’t comment on Xenoblade, Octopath, Fire Emblem, Monster Hunter etc.

As others have pointed out, indies are great for the Switch, not too demanding to require further CPU or GPU Power to hinder gameplay, but you will pay the “Nintendo tax”. This is that Nintendo hardly has sales on games. But the point of the Switch is gaming on the go, so it’s a good trade off. If that’s not your reasoning, then stick with indies on stronger consoles or PC.


Joycons are not too small, I would pair them with these if you want to use them single player (like Mario kart or Mario party):

FASTSNAIL Grips for Nintendo Switch Joy-Con, Wear-resistant Handle Kit for Switch Joy Cons Controller, 2 Pack (Black)

When attached to the switch in handheld mode, you can use this to help:

Orzly Comfort Grip Case for Nintendo Switch - Protective Back Cover for use on The Nintendo Switch Console in Handheld Gamepad Mode with Built in Comfort Padded Hand Grips - Smokey Slate

u/GreninjaNerfer · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

On accessories - must haves definitely include (like everyone else said):

  • microSD card (64GB minimum imo, 128 is what I have because I have a fair amount of digital games)
  • A TEMPERED GLASS screen protector. This is easily the best screen protector on the market.
  • A travel case. I would recommend a nondescript black one; you don't want something that says "STEAL ME PLS"

    Less important things:

  • A stand (the one on the back of the Switch is pretty bad and if you use it a lot it will just snap off). The good ones are the HORI playstand with 3 angles and the official Nintendo charging stand.
  • Power banks/chargers: u/queuebitt made a whole website for this and regularly posts charger/power bank deals on r/NintendoSwitchDeals.
  • Extra controllers and Joy-Con grips: if you're going to play with multiple people you will need to get more controllers unless you want to play with the single Joy-Cons (which isn't a great experience). The Pro Controller you can find for around $60 now; in my opinion it's a really good investment.

    Before we get on to games, there's always the debate of physical vs digital. Indie games are often cheaper digitally because they have to partner with companies to release physical copies, but for most "big" titles physical or digital really depends on the game.

  • Physical: the big advantage is that you can sell it once you're done with the game. This is good for games with low replayability, like Mario Odyssey; however, it comes with less convenience because you have to swap out the cartridge every time to switch games.
  • Digital comes with convenience; you don't have to swap out cartridges and you don't have to deal with potential cartridge issues, but you're stuck with the game and digital games go on sale way less often that physical games. Digital is great for games you'll open and play for a few minutes or rounds, like Mario Kart.

    On to games. (these are the ones I have and can approve of)

  • Breath of the Wild is a must have if you're going to buy a Switch. It also has fantastic DLC that you'll probably want to buy along with the game.
  • Super Mario Odyssey is also really fun, but doesn't lend itself to multiple playthroughs very well. The first experience is amazing, but subsequent playthroughs don't have the same charm unless you're speedrunning.
  • Super Mario Party is a good experience for the first few times you play it but it suffers from a lack of content. I'd say get it when it goes on sale.
  • Mario Kart is a staple Nintendo game. Consider digital.
  • Smash Ultimate is also fantastic for both large groups and 2 people, but the solo modes aren't as great.
  • Overcooked 1 & 2 are so much fun, especially if you have 4 people. It quickly turns into a glorious mess and I love it.
  • Mario + Rabbids Kingdom Battle is actually surprisingly fun for a game with maniacal rabbits. It also goes on sale ALL THE DAMN TIME so that's also a thing.
  • Splatoon 2 is a very creative, cute and charming game - but it's a team shooter game, so it's easier to get frustrated compared to other games. The DLC (Octo Expansion) is fantastic, though.
  • Hollow Knight, Celeste, and Shovel Knight are all amazing games (especially for the prices you get them at) but they're basically digital only. I'd say get him an eShop card and let him decide which games he wants.

    TL;DR microSD card, screen protector, case. eShop card and get Breath of the Wild and Mario Kart at least.

    Also: don't buy anything "Nintendo Switch" branded! They're literally the exact same things as the unbranded ones, just priced higher because of the logo.
u/Saikewnonebi · 3 pointsr/GiftofGames

> Alright, I'm going to post what I posted in my actual request for some DLC. (and some extra writing)
> I have very easily put in over 600 hours for this game, I'm not sure of a way to prove this to you but if I could, I would! I've played more in this MMO than in most of my steam library put together, I've tried so hard to get this Bundle but my parents don't get paid until after the 29th, I really hope you can fulfil this for me.

Hey GiftOfGames! /u/Saikewnonebi here :).

Today I'm Requesting The SW:ToR Story Bundle; this includes a 60 Day Time Card, 2400 Of The Games Premium Currency, an Exclusive Pet, The Rise Of The Hutt Cartel Story Pack and the Shadow Of Revan story pack! That's a lot of content for $40!

I absolutely adore this game! It's the only MMO I'm actually into! Currently I have one max level character (not max level anymore, the cap was raised to level 60 but you can only get there with the Story Packs).

I currently have two characters that I play on mainly, One called Saikewnonebi (Level 55) on the Republic Side (he's a Jedi Knight, yo.) I also have a girl called Kelechi (Level 35) on the Empire side, she's a Sith Marauder.

I massive enjoy levelling because of the story, but I want to continue the story and go to Manaan and Rishi (the two added planets) - there are also two added endgame Operations (A.K.A Raids) I'm massively missing out on the content my Guild is doing because they all have the DLC's and I don't.

  • Talking of Guilds, here's some info!

    My republic side character's are all in the PvE guild, Eternal Dawn. I'm currently a Recruiter and we have ~300 members. The guild were very friendly to me as when I got Saikewnonebi to Level 50 I was still quite new to the game. IIRC I ran an Operation with a character named Badass and I asked him if his guild was open, he said yes and I as invited almost immediately! I've been in Eternal Dawn ever since - it's been a good time!

    My Empire side guild is well, mine! I'm the Guild Leader of a guild named Imperial Eclipse and have been for about two weeks! We currently sit at around 15 members but we really look forward to growing! It's more a levelling guild until the first member reaches endgame! (Level 50+). Of course, this is an open invitation to join my guild, if you play the game and want to join the guild just comment the name of your character and I'll throw you an invite when you're online!

  • You don't play the game? Why Not!

    If you don't play the game, I think you should!
    If you're a fan of Star Wars, or a fan of KoToR I or II, this game is great!

    Hell, if you wanna start out I'll even help you! Joining my Guild on the Empire Side will grant you a 6.8% EXP boost, and as the amount of players in the guild increases, so does the boost! Oh, and if you plan on subscribing to the game in the future (Cheap deals on then why not use my Referral Link? Info on that can be found here! (If you click it, and subscribe within 14 days of clicking it - I get the bonuses on the FAQ page)

    TIP FOR SUBSCRIBING: If you subscribe, you should immediately activate a security key on your account (iOS or Android), this will grant you 100 Cartel Coins per month even after your subscription has run out, it will also add an extra layer of security to your account.

    The deal runs out on the 29th, so if you feel like my request is worthy of being fulfilled, please do it by the end of today.
u/iAmAddicted2R_ddit · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace


For your controller needs, if you want to use a DualShock4, DS3, Wii U Pro Controller or WiiMote, all you need is a mini Bluetooth dongle and a driver such as DS4Windows (google "[controller] driver windows"). With the proper driver they should be supported under most games, but they might require a button mapping tool to work with some stuff (we can help you with that).

If you want to go the easy route and have a controller supported by most games with no driver configuration as soon as you plug it in, an Xbone controller is your choice. However, it will require a special M$ dongle to work wirelessly, and be warned that this dongle only works under Windows 10. Alternately, if you can live with some inferior design features, you can get a 360 controller (which still works with nearly all controller games) and its corresponding dongle, which has the added benefit of working with all Windows's back to XP. However, be aware that both of these controllers require AA batteries rather than the rechargeable packs found in DualShock/Nintendo. You can buy a rechargeable pack for Xbox controllers but it obviously costs extra.

All of the aforementioned controllers will also work over USB with any operating system.

Now to the second part of your question. I assume that you mean you want to play on your TV–this can be accomplished one of two ways and is easy to setup. The first and most obvious way is to simply keep your PC in your entertainment center and hook it to your TV over HDMI, in much the same way that you would your PS4. Steam's Big Picture mode tries to emulate the homescreen of a console to make controller navigation easier, and does a pretty good job of it. Coming from the PS4 interface I'm sure you'll feel right at home–but you do still need a KB+mouse to get in Big Picture from a cold PC startup. This shouldn't be an issue as there are many cheap wireless keyboards with inbuilt trackpads on offer.

The second way is to use a Steam Link. This is a very handy little set-top box that will stream video input over the internet from a PC in the house–if you've ever heard of the PlayStation TV, this is similar. In order to use the Link you must have fast (at least 10mbps; check using Ethernet on both ends (your PC and the Link) and a controller that connects over USB (either thru a USB cable or a USB wireless receiver. The Xbox receivers mentioned in a previous paragraph currently don't work with the Link but Valve says they are looking into it). It's very simple to setup–hook the Link to internet, plug in your controller and HDMI cable for TV connection, and pair it with your PC. Then you'll have total access to all your controller-supported PC games from the couch, with no loss of graphics.

Also, as a PC gamer, I have a word for you–there are some games that do play better with KB+M, especially shooters. Trust me, once you try something like Call of Duty with a mouse, you will never be able to go back to aiming with controller sticks. If you want this benefit but still find KB+M uncomfortable, there is the Steam Controller which features a more accurate trackpad in place of the right stick, and will work with most of the games that an Xbox controller works with.

One final word. If you are actually, legitimately serious about getting into PC gaming–please for the LOVE OF GOD do not buy a pre-built one. BUILD. YOUR. OWN. Seriously, if you are looking to surpass consoles and get value for money, I CANNOT stress this enough. Although it may seem daunting at first it's really little more than high-tech LEGOs–/r/BuildaPCforMe will furnish you with a parts list so you don't have to bother with that, and then the build will take two hours tops (even if you're inexperienced). There are tons of great videos on YouTube that will show you how–this is my personal fave, although I do advise you not to use any of those parts since that vid is considerably old.

If you have any questions feel free to reply to this and I can help you out.

u/_paramedic · 5 pointsr/hackintosh
(continued from previous post)

The DAYUM Build (AKA The You Spend Irresponsibly Build) ~ $5500

Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $554.98 @ NCIX US
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $89.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus Rampage IV Black Edition EATX LGA2011 Motherboard | $391.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 64GB (8 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $594.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $229.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define XL R2 (Black Pearl) ATX Full Tower Case | $124.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair AX1500i 1500W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $405.98 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ OutletPC
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-N150UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $11.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $5407.40
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-28 05:09 EST-0500 |

This shit is gonna blow any Mac Pro away. In fact, it'll blow everything away. You better have a backup generator. And you better know what you're getting into smh. Btw, I have no idea whether this is Hackintosh-compatible. Asus motherboards can be tricky but if you're going to invest this much money you might as well invest the time to set it all up. Or hire someone. Whatever. Oh, and still cheaper than a "comparable" (lol, it doesn't compare) Mac Pro by like, $4000. Buy yourself a render farm. Or more than one computer. Or the Apple Store.


Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $104.99 @ SuperBiiz
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $6.49 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H87N Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $96.98 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $61.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $82.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $78.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Corsair RM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $88.99 @ Directron
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $521.42
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-28 05:18 EST-0500 |

Time for the render node! You only really need a processor and stuff that fits with it. I went barebones with this, and stuffed it all into the smallest case I could while leaving breathing room for cooling. You can stack these on top of each other. Better yet, buy an IKEA drawer set and put them in drawers. Remember to carve out the back to allow for air to escape and to manage cables. Voila! Your own render farm, nicely tucked next to your desk.

Disclaimer: I got the render-farm-in-drawers idea from this guy. I saw it on a blog like year or two ago, I had no idea he started a website. Check it out!


For video editing, gaming, and general use, I recommend the following monitor because it isn't glossy (fuck glare!), is LED-backlit, has IPS technology for amazing viewing angles and color reproduction, is HDMI-compatible, 1080p, has a fast response time (5 ms), and is relatively affordable (about $160 USD street.)

If you want headphones, check these out. They're great middle-range headphones that are good for music, gaming, and other general use.

If you're doing audio work, I recommend using monitors for accurate sound-reproduction and to avoid coloring your mixes. A ton of people I know swear by these. Remember to treat your room! There are great tips and guides for all genres of music over at r/edmproduction. Don't let the name fool you; they have some great stuff for everyone.

In terms of mice, any will do; I personally recommend this one, though.

In terms of keyboards, use whatever you're comfortable with. I know a lot of people swear by mechanical keyboards, especially keyboards that have CherryMX keys. I personally hate them because I'm far more accurate with chiclet keyboards. However, I plan to change my key caps to some that are shallower/need to be pressed harder to register (I currently have Cherry MX Reds, want to switch to Browns). The great thing about mechanical keyboards is that they are customizable! If you are used to Apple Keyboards, this keyboard should provide a good balance between the feel of chiclet keys and that of a mechanical keyboard.

If you're balking at these prices, you're not alone. Unfortunately, quality products mean shelling out hard-earned moolah. If you can afford it and think it will be valuable to you, I think these products should work well for their intended purposes and have good quality. I have personally used all of these products. Of course, don't take my word for it; look around r/buildapc, r/headphones, and r/edmproduction for more recommendations.

(continued in final post)
u/CaptainClough · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Definitely a Screen Protector

A Travelling Case would be nice.

I also added Dr Scholls Moleskin to the front of my dock to reduce the risk of scratching the screen protector. (Two small strips on the parts inside the dock that are raised.)

A Memory Card also helps for the digital only games.

What color Switch did you get? I got the grey switch then bought a pair of Red Joycons and another pair of Blue Joycons. So in total I have a grey, red, and blue L Joycon and a grey, red, and blue R Joycon.

If you got the grey switch and then buy the [two color Joycon packs] ( then you won't be able to get one of each color for L/R without over paying. This is because the [two color Joycon packs] ( are always Red L and Blue R.

If you bought a neon switch, then buy the [two color Joycon pack] ( and a pair of Grey Joycons for all combinations.

Also, don't buy Joycons on Amazon, they are stupid expensive right now.

I don't have a pro controller yet, but people seem to love it.


Zelda = Must Buy

Mario Kart 8 Deluxe = Must Buy

1-2 Switch = Great for parties/friends

Snipperclips = Great for people who don't play games often (girlfriends/parents/kids). Secret here is to not explain how to play/what to do and let them have fun and try to figure out the puzzles on their own. Act like a support character and you'll have a blast watching them.

Binding of Isaac = I love this game, but put countless hours on the PC version. Mature themes

Super Bomberman R = Classic mode with easy CPUs is fun for roommates. I haven't played through the adventure mode yet.

Wonderboy = Cute/Fun side scroller.

Has Been Heroes = I don't have this yet, apparently very difficult.

Other notes:

I started collecting amiibos after getting a switch (Be very careful, it's easy to get addicted and drop a ton of money here).

I got a Joycon charging dock since the only way to charge extra pairs of Joycons without the Joycon charging dockis to rotate them in and out of the switch while it charges/docked.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

PS I love the Switch so much. It's definitely my favorite console ever.

u/Thopterthallid · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch


A Switch is a Switch. The only difference would be what games might come bundled with it.

Extra controllers might help. The console will come with two Joycon controllers. Joycons are sort of "half" controllers. For most multiplayer games, using a single joycon is fine, albiet a bit uncomfortable for big hands. The "main" use of joycons is to link them together into one controller. Some games REQUIRE this setup. Naturally, you can play in "handheld" mode where you connect a joycon to each half of the Switch and use the screen itself to play on.

A second pair of joycons, or a pro-controller wouldn't hurt.

Beyond that, consider getting a sturdy carrying case if you plan on letting him take it with him on outings (It is a hybrid home/portable console after all) as well as some tempered glass screen protectors. The Switch is durable, but why take chances on something that expensive?


Super Mario Odyssey

  • The Switch game. An adventure 3D platformer that's going to set a standard for years to come.
  • An absolute 100% must buy. Basically mandatory for Switch owners.
  • A ton of different worlds, and almost every other character in the game can be "captured" and played as.
  • Has some of the cleanest controls and platforming.
  • Very non-punishing. There's no game overs or lives to worry about. No time limits. Dying always has you reappear very close by with little penalty.
  • One of Nintendo's most polished games, and jam packed full of content.
  • Do not skip this.

    Breath of the Wild

  • The first open world game that's more about exploration than pointless tasks.
  • Takes a close second for mandatory games.
  • Massive open world that's gorgeously atmospheric.
  • Far from being complicated, but kids under 7 might not understand what needs to be done in order to progress the game.
  • The perfect game if kiddo just loves ignoring objectives and exploring. I sure did when I was young.
  • A more serious toned game with more violence than the others. No blood though, and monsters shrivel up and poof away when they die. Link's horses can be killed either by monsters or falling off ledges, going limp and lifeless. Might be a bit heavy for youngest kids.
  • If your kid is up to the challenge, another absolute must buy.

    Mario Kart 8 Deluxe

  • THE party racing game.
  • An absolute blast, and great for multiplayer.
  • Has auto-steering and auto-accelerate options for the youngest gamers.
  • 48 different racetracks and more characters and karts than he'll ever use.
  • Mario Kart is part of the quintessential Nintendo experience, but things will get heated.

    Kirby Star Allies

  • A co-operative adventure game for 1-4 players.
  • Great for young kids, it's very easy and approachable.
  • Tons of characters, easy controls, and can be played with up to four players working together.
  • Kirby gets computer controlled allies that will almost play the game for him. It's VERY easy, but not a bad game by any means.
  • A great first game for a kid.

    Super Smash Bros Ultimate

  • A massively ambitious crossover party/fighting game.
  • The must own Switch game of the season.
  • A bit more violent and serious toned. Characters are going to use swords, guns, and explosives on one another. I don't know how young your child is or what sort of content you don't mind them seeing. There won't be blood or death, but it's a fighting game. The whole point is to beat one another up and knock opponents off the platform.
  • Some of the characters are... A little lewd. Just something to keep in mind when deciding whats appropriate for your kid.
  • There's a good chunk of singleplayer content, but it's intended for multiplayer.

    Super Mario Party

  • A board game interlaced with minigames.
  • Lots of variety and characters
  • Not bad alone, but best played with friends and family.

    Pokemon Lets Go

  • A turn based RPG
  • An HD Remake of Pokemon Yellow from way back in the day.

    Minecraft Switch Edition

  • One of the most popular games among kids this last generation.
  • Encourages self appointed goal setting, creative building, and resource management.
  • Imagine being able to shrink down and live in the lego houses you build and defend them from skeletons and zombies. Every kids dream.

    My Hero One's Justice

  • I don't know a lot about this game, but it's a 1-on-1 fighting game based on the Anime Boku no Hero Academia. He might enjoy it more if he's familiar with the show.


  • I have to mention this one, as he's GOING to ask about it someday.
  • Fortnite is a free to play battle royale game that's incredibly popular among kids right now. Every playground is full of kids doing dances from the game and talking about the game, and every kid's youtube channel is talking about tips and tricks and showing off promoted outfits and emotes that can be bought in the game. Hundreds of millions of dollars are being thrown around because of this game, and a lot of youtubers make a killing off of getting kids hooked on tips and tricks videos and such. Can't stress enough that youtube isn't safe for kids to browse alone.
  • It's online-only, meaning he's going to be interacting with other players online. If he plugs a microphone into the switch's headphone jack, he'll be able to talk to strangers in game.
  • Don't dismiss it entirely, but it's definitely something you should look into before letting him go at it, and probably supervise closely. Letting him go into the world of Fortnite is going to expose him to things beyond your control.
u/DoombotBL · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Get an SD card, something with data transfer speeds of 80MB/s or better. I recommend at least 128GB if you plan on buying digital moderately, and 200GB if you want to go mostly digital. You can find great deals posted here and on the Nintendo Switch deals subreddit of which I forgot the exact name of. Something like /r/SwitchDeals or something like that.

I would recommend a pro controller as well if you have it in your budget, I have been playing with the Joycons this whole time but I'm starting to feel their limitations for Mario Odyssey. Their tiny joysticks and limited range of motion kind of hurt for precise movements in the game. I played BotW just fine with the Joycons though.

Get a screen protector of some kind because the screen is an easily scratched plastic, not glass. It is more resistant to shattering and less brittle but it can get scratched quite easily. I recommend these:

HORI officially licensed plastic scratch protector is cheap and effective (the one I'm using right now). Just make sure you apply it properly and remove the bubbles as instructed. Then THIS IS IMPORTANT allow the screen to cure for 24 hours before playing the Switch in docked mode so that the glue can bond solidly. If you play it docked right after application the glue will heat up with the console and become undone and develop bubbles.

Also this:

Tempered glass is a very popular protection option, as it offers the scratch protection of hard glass that the Switch doesn't come with. It even comes with 2 in case the first one shatters in a drop. This is the go to solution for most because it looks great and feels good to the touch while offering superior protection.

Be careful with the Joycon button extender and wrist strap attachment, lots of people put them on wrong early in the Switch's life and didn't know how to remove them as well. There are instructions on how to put them on and remove them on Nintendo's Youtube page. I personally don't use them at all to avoid the hassle.

Be aware the the Switch uses USB-C form factor for all connectivity directly to the console. That means if you want to charge it on the go you need to take that into account. Make sure you buy quality USB-C cables/extensions/adapters as well because a poorly made one could damage the Switch. Benson Leung has information on good USB-C accessories. The Anker Powercore 26800 is a great portable recharging solution to, if you wanna game on the go for long periods and don't have anything to plug into on the way.

Enjoy the Switch and the games! Hope you get lots of fun times out of it.

u/jpfarre · 7 pointsr/fo4

> I want to play co op lego games with my nieces and nephews, I want to play split screen with my mates, then watch a bluray with my mrs of an evening

Lego with the little guys? Got it! Even checked to make sure they were local co-op.

You'll probably have to go a bit outside your comfort zone for local co-op with friends, but that is also a dying feature for consoles too. However, if you're cool with some indie games... Gotta recommend Samurai Gunn specifically. That game is god damn amazing! You and your friends will fuckin' die laughing while you deflect bullets, cut off each others heads, jump up walls, get impaled on spikes, and crushed by big ass boxes.

Blu-Ray? Got it!

> I want to do this on the big screen, in the living room, on my couch not alone at a desk in another room on a smaller screen

BAM! Use the controller you already have. Wireless from the couch, no problem. Just plug it in and go.

Use an HDMI cable to plug that bad boy up to your TV, son!

Need to use the mouse for a second while your on the couch? Shit, we got you!

And if that ain't enough, wireless keyboard and mouse is like $20.

> I want to swap games with my friends

Yeah, bro. Us too.

> I want to play offline

Got you fam.

> I want to buy discs

Then buy them. Amazon and Gamestop and every other big store sells discs too.

> I want to do all this quickly, easily and consistently and I don't want to spend a months wages, and more every 6 months, to do so

Building the computer is as simple as building a lego set. It takes a couple hours to initially set up, but it only needs done once. After that, it's just as easy as pressing the home button on your xbox to launch steam big picture and choose your favorite game to play.

PCs will be more than a console upfront. You will spend more than $300 on a PC, but not much more unless you want to. If you factor in the price of a couple games and a year of XBOX live or PSN, PC is already cheaper.

Plus, where are you going to find sales like this?

They happen damn near constantly on PC. New game you want isn't on sale? No worries. Green Man Gaming has a 20% off coupon every month that can be applied to any game they have. Save yourself $12 right there without even needing a sale.

You don't have to upgrade any more frequently than you want. The consoles are on 2012 tech. Games will stay with that as a baseline until new consoles come out.

All that said, look here for a parts breakdown with prices of various price ranges:

I'd recommend The Crusher as a baseline, then maybe asking over at /r/buildapc if you need help or want to make changes. I know you said you don't like PCMR, which is fine... The circlejerk gets old for us too... But there a ton of great communities on reddit for this. Maybe try /r/pcgaming as it's a bit more mature.

One thing I will say about PCMR is that they are most goddamn generous sub out there. Constantly giving away games, components, monitors, etc. and surprisingly helpful, but you do have to get past the kids and the circlejerk to see that.

If you do decide to look into, like I said, /r/buildapc is a great resource to start and you can also free to PM me if you'd like.

Have a good one, brother!

u/IlIlIlIiIlIlIlI · 2 pointsr/battlefield_4

There are many great mice on the market in your price range, but there's a lot of information (and marketing) to sift through. I hope this post helps.

The most important part of a mouse is its sensor, which is responsible for maintaining 1:1 tracking at all speeds. As of today (2015-01-17) the best sensors are the 3366, 3310, and S3989; this limits your choices significantly but ensures that you will be getting the best mouse possible. Below are some mice and information (and my own, biased thoughts) about them. Ultimately, you will have to decide on a mouse based on your own set of priorities and needs / wants.

First, the Razer DeathAdder Chroma. This is a 5-button right-handed ergonomic mouse with a good sensor, acceptable weight, and RGB lighting. However, the top edges are oddly shaped, there are rubber side grips, you have to use the Razer Synapse software, the clicks are extremely light (causing some people to accidentally misclick), it has a braided cable (frays), and Razer is known for its extremely poor quality control. A good mouse, certainly, but there are major flaws which prevent me from recommending this mouse.

Logitech mice are known for their excellent build quality and high-quality sensors, but they are oddly-shaped. The Logitech mice to consider are the G303 and G502 (there's an updated G502 with RGB lighting, too). Both of these mice use the 3366 sensor, which is slightly better than the 3310. Based on shape alone, however, I can't recommend these mice. The G303 is very small, and the G502 is heavy and awkwardly-shaped and such that I would accidentally click the two front side buttons. They also come with a braided cable (frays) and require software for configuration.

Next is the SteelSeries Rival 300. RGB lighting, 5 buttons, light weight, etc., but has a rubber side grip and uses software. The new revision supposedly fixed the wear issues with the rubber side, so there's nothing really wrong with this mouse, but I think there are better options.

The FinalMouse 2016 is simply a 3310 sensor in a cheap OEM shell - I'd look elsewhere. They're coming out with the "Tournament Pro" and "Scream One" editions, but I wouldn't have high hopes for these.

The Ducky Secret is an interesting one, but largely untested and unreviewed. Ducky is known for their high-quality mechanical keyboards (I'm typing this on a Ducky Shine 3), but this is their first mouse. Good sensor, RGB lighting, separate left and right buttons, a shell made of PBT (higher-quality plastic), Omron switches in all buttons, even the thumb buttons (but not rated for as many clicks as other mice). Could be great, but it's a bit of a gamble, especially considering how many well-known and well-tested other mice already exist.

Finally, I'll cover the Zowie mice. All of these mice are driverless (no software needed; all adjustments are made with a button on the bottom of the mouse), which is certainly a plus when it comes to ease of use, but they lack the flashy features of many "flagship" mice, like custom RGB lighting. All Zowie Mice use the same sensor (3310) and have 5 buttons (left, right, middle up/down/click, and two thumb buttons). Each type comes in two or three different sizes, as indicated my the number after the model name. The ambidextrous mice (ZA for palm grip and FK for claw grip) have two buttons on each side, but only one set can be used at a time. The EC mice are right-handed ergonomic mice. None of them have rubber side grips or braided cables, and all of them are very light. However, they are known for using Huano switches rather than Omrons (so the left and right buttons are a little harder to click) but there is a new revision with Omron switches. Speaking of revisions, this seems to be the Zowie business model: small revisions every 6 months or so. Questionable, but they do offer excellent mice.

Those are all of the major players in the gaming mouse market, but there are others (Mionix, Roccat, CoolerMaster, Corsair) that you may want to look into. There's a lot more depth than I've covered here (grip type, sensor implementations, lift-off distance, etc.) but this should give you an overview of the most popular choices. Keep in mind that this is not in any way an objective set of reviews; these are all my opinions and may not apply to your tastes. Additionally, I've been pretty harsh and picky, but these really are all great mice.

After all of my research, I chose and now use a Zowie EC1-A (late 2015 version, before the BenQ re-brand and Omron update), and couldn't be happier.

u/Fidodo · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

You need to get an original Switch, not the Lite to play on the TV. Out of the box you can play multiplayer, but the joycons are a little uncomfortable to play on sideways (although maybe with 6 year old hands they wouldn't be?). If you don't want to use joycons, you'll need at least 1 extra controller, either another set of joycons or pro controllers. The benefit of joycons is you can use them either as one controller or split them for two, so if you got 2 sets of joycons you could split them into 4 controllers. I wouldn't recommend that for an adult, but if you son has friends over maybe it'd be comfortable in their tiny hands.

Everything else is optional, but there are some other things you might want to get. Joycons charge by being attached to the Switch, so if you end up with more than 2 joycons, you'd need to swap them out to charge the other set, so you might want to get a joycon charging stand if you go that route. If you get pro controllers instead, you can charge with any USB-C charger, so you might already have some extra lying around the house.

Memory cards are helpful if you want to get games digitally. The Switch comes with 32GB of storage, but some games are pretty large. Smash Ultimate is 14GB. Also game saves only go on the internal memory so you might want to save the internal storage for that instead. Memory cards are cheap so might as well get one. Any micro SD card is fine, the Switch doesn't support super high speed cards so a basic class 10 card is all you need. Also, you can always delete games to free up space and it won't delete your save file. You can download it again later.

As far as physical vs digital, each have their benefits.

Physical: can be played on any number of Switches on any account, can be resold, requires physically moving the game to each Switch, may require large updates anyways depending on the game.

Digital: can only be played on any account on one switch, can be played on the owning account on any number of switches one at a time. You can actually play the same game on two switches at the same time if you play one on the owning account and one on a different account, and you can even play online multiplayer across the two switches if you have Nintendo Switch online (local multiplayer is locked down if you play on the same copy). That might be something to consider if you end up with another household Switch down the road.

For online play, Nintendo Switch online is $20 a year for one account or $35 a year for up to 8 accounts. It's tied to the account not the system, so if you get the single account subscription you'd have to share an account for online.

You might want a screen protector, I recommend this one, it's very easy to install.

u/Thranx · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Hey Dad, also a Dad. I got a switch for each of my boys (9 year old and 6 year old). They love them. Here's some guidance.

Custom units/skins don't matter. Just buy whatever package has the joycon colors you think he/she'd like.

Mario Odyssey is excellent. Mario Party is just alright. Odyssey is a great 3D platformer ala Mario 64. Or... if you're REALLY that deeply ignorant of anything non-playstation... a better Crash Bandicoot. :D Mario Party is a mini-games ... game. It's just ok. Gets alot of love, but IMO, boring quickly... didn't last too long for the kids' entertainment either.

Zelda is a must buy. It is fantastic. Unless your dude/dudette is pretty young, do it. Also... clock yourself some gametime there... we're talking, Horizon Zero Dawn with a lighter atmosphere and a little less quicktime... but maybe better.

Smash is Smash.

No clue no One's Justice.

Pikachu should be alright... I'd only recommend that if he/she's already a Pokemon fan. If not, get the real full fledged Pokemon a year from now.

Added recommendation... StarLink is a fun open world exploration game that isn't super difficult and doesn't take tself too seriously. Stereotyping a bit here but, if your kid's a 8-12 year old boy, it's pretty tough to beat flying around with space ships and exploring planets and shooting bad guys. You can safely ingnore the additional toys, or get into it. They actually did a great job of allowing a pretty cheap digital purchase of all the toys, and you don't even have to do that... you can unlock pretty much everything in-game.

Anyhoo... good luck. Spend some time yourself on Breath of the Wild. You won't regret it.

OH! And buy this case: Available iin multiple styles. Great case, most of the other really suck. Those ones are very well made.

u/tamaralads · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

your daughter is gorgeous! i guarantee you she won’t remember you having to work, but will instead remember all the amazing memories you two have created and will continue to create ❤️ i hope she has an amazing day! here’s some adorable baby animals for her/you to look at❤️ i’ve had my eye on this mouse for ages, it would really improve my gaming experience and gaming is what i spend 99% of my time doing! however it is at the top end of your budget so i’d be more than happy with anything from my under £10 wishlist if you wanted to gift other people as well☺️🥰❤️

p.s. noodles are amazing!

u/rustinhieber42 · 1 pointr/SSBM

I'm probably just echoing what everyone else said, but here we go.

Fox is technically the best character in the game, but I wouldn't recommend him for a beginner personally. The tier list assumes that all players play as perfectly as possible, and the things that make Fox good require you to press a lot of buttons very quickly at very specific timings, which is more difficult for newer players. To find out which character (I'd recommend just one to start) you want to main, I'd recommend watching some professionals play matches and see if any of them catch your eye. The easiest characters for beginners to pick up are probably Marth or Sheik, but the most important thing by FAR is to main the character YOU want to main. If you want to main Fox, do it! If you find that you really have your heart set on Kirby, don't let anyone stop you! Hell, I'm from Minnesota, and our 3rd ranked player is a Kirby main. You have to play with whoever YOU find the most fun to play with, otherwise practicing won't be fun, and you'll never get anywhere.

Oh, and get a gamecube controller. Get a gamecube controller. Get a gamecube controller. They're practically designed for Smash Bros, and they're the only controllers you'll be able to use in tournaments if you decide to go to any in the future. Don't get a cheap knock-off either, they're not nearly as good and they break easily. Get this one, or a different color of this one. It's by far the best for a beginner. If you happen to get really into Melee, you might want to get one of the older editions of the GC controllers, as they're considered to be slightly better, but they're way more expensive. If you're using Dolphin, you'll also need an adapter. It might be a little annoying to get set up, but Dolphin Emulator's site has troubleshooting for every possible issue.

Welcome to the community!

TL;DR Play whoever you want but I'd personally recommend not Fox for a beginner, Marth or Sheik would be "easiest". Get a real GC controller and an adapter to use on Dolphin.

u/theswerto · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Depends on what you play it for. If you played it for the story - absolutely.

Sadly over the past year there has only been one new addition to group play - a warzone. There hasn't been a new operation (raid) or flashpoint (instance) since December 2014 with the release of the previous expansion. But they did scale everything up to the current level cap so you can play all the operations and instances, and scale you down to the level of zones you're visiting and the experience/credits/loot up to your level so everything is always at the very least somewhat challenging, rewarding, and fun to play.

Game's still pretty great, but people who have been playing it since launch are understandably burnt out.

RP is still going strong on the main RP server (Ebon Hawk) and if you're interested in PvP the few remaining PvP ruletype servers still have strong PvP. There's rumors of them moving towards a megaserver format to merge all the servers in a region together, but we haven't seen anything on it in a while.

It's definitely better than it was at launch, and someone just starting today will have a thousand hours of content to consume before they start retreading over old stuff, but its pretty hard to stay subscribed right now unless you have a core group of friends keeping the game fun.

If anyone wants to give it a try, its free to play and free to start. Most of the game is free, but honestly the F2P mode is pretty limited gameplay wise (no instances or PvP for the most part) and stops just before the first expansion. If you want to get all the content, subscription starts at $15 a month, but Amazon sells a 3 month bundle that also comes with $20 of the premium currency (used to purchase cosmetic stuff or experience boosts - which are useless because you level so fast) for $40. You can also use it for existing accounts but only once. Once you subscribe you have permanent access to all story content after the first expansion and your F2P mode is a bit less limited when your subscription lapses.

Don't let the hatejerk on /r/gaming and this sub lie either, this game is KOTOR 3, and KOTOR 4-10 as well. All 8 classes have their own story and they're fantastically written, especially now that you can skip all the sidequest MMO bullshit and just run through the story stuff and have fun. The gameplay is what you'd expect from an MMO, but it has a bioware spin on it (No auto attacks, everyone has companions that can help them fight and fill a role they can't, etc.)

u/lazy_eye_of_sauron · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

My advice, get a tempered glass screen protector. Sure, the screen is plastic and isn't going to shatter, but with a console that you can reasonably plan to be using for 3-5 years you want to make sure that nothing is going to scratch that screen, and you might as well not skimp on protection when it's only about 10 bucks.

You should also get a case. I'm using the hybrid case that you can buy from nintendo, but I honestly cant recommend it, while it protects my switch in transit, and acts as a better kickstand, it is uncomfortable to play with in handheld mode, and is annoying to take off the switch to dock it. Also while you can charge the switch while it is inside the case, it is cumbersome. Most of the zippered pouch cases you see will do the job, bonus points if it is hardshell.

The kickstand is okay at best. It can be flimsy at times, and doesnt provide for multiple viewing angles. I recommend the hori stand, because you can play and charge (something you cant do with the default kickstand) and have multiple viewing angles.

Avoid cheepass(tm) charge cables. USB-C can be picky, and not all type-c cables are made equally. Just because it fits, doesn't mean that it is up to the same standard as what's in your box. Your best bet is to check reviews on these before you buy. If you just get the cheapest thing, you might not charge as fast as you should, or worse you can damage your switch.

As for games, You already got BotW and MK8D. If you need more to play, give Shovel Knight a try, as well as Binding of Isaac and Graceful Explosion Machine. All the Neo Geo games are great. Snipperclips is great if you have friends to play it with, and if you have friends AND alcohol, 1,2 switch can be entertaining for a few hours.

u/barbolanero · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Well, first things first: congrats on getting your Switch! Also, thanks for doing this giveaway, it's pretty cool from you.

Best advice I can give you: don't trust the guys that say that cartridges taste like candy... for some odd reason when the Switch first launched there was a trend of tasting the cartridges... apparently they taste awful. Apart from that, go in blind in the Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild, the game is about exploration and exploring it it's actually the best thing to do in the world. I'd love to be able to replay the game as if it was the first time.

In case you don't like Zelda, or even if you do and really like metroidvanias as well, go for Hollow Knight, the game is dirt cheap at $15 and it's an amazing game. Same as with Zelda, go in blind, I've been doing that and it's an amazing experience.

As for party games, you obviously have Mario Party, but Mario Kart 8 Deluxe has been the most succesful game for my friends and also for my wife's friends, there's just something to it.

The Switch's Eshop can be a bit chaotic to say the least, the indies are overflowing and it gets hard to find stuff that came out a while back, so try to wishlist everything you're mildly interested in, that way you can actually remember it exists. Trust me on that one. Also, for some odd reason thigns you buy don't dissapear from the wishlist, so do some clean up now and then.

As for protection: get a tempered glass for the screen, I've got this one AM Tempered glass on launch and the first one still looks like I've just applied it, so it's a great value.

Needless to say, get an SD card, a big one. It'll save you the trouble of swapping cartridges or even sd cards if you go for a smaller one.

Finally, enjoy the Switch to your heart's content, it's a great system and it has some amazing games. A not so hidden but sometimes hard to actually convince yourself to buy gem is Mario + Rabbids. I got it on an Ubisoft sale and can't believe what a great game it is.

As for offers, I do have like a bazzillion platinum points (well, maybe only 1000ish) on My Nintendo, in case you like any of the rewards just let me know.




u/Lorben · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

It'll be possible but I don't think it would be realistic to have more than 2 people play at a time. It wouldn't work well if all 4 people spread across 4 want to play at the same time. Remember, this is a 6.2 inch screen we're talking about. If you wanted more than 2 people to play you would also need to buy additional controllers.

  • You'll want to make sure you get the newly revised Switch with better battery life.

    There's still some older model Switchs on the shelves, you want to make sure you get the new one.

    The old model box has a Switch and TV on a white background.

    The new model box has a Switch and TV on a red background.

    It's model number is HAC-001(-01), sometimes that's listed on the description if you're buying online.

  • Unless you're buying and packing more controllers you'll need to make sure whatever game(s) you get support single Joycon play.

    The Joycons on the Switch slide off to become two separate controllers, but since they don't have all the buttons of a regular controller not every game can be played with a single Joycon. There's a lot that can though, such as Mario Kart 8, Snipperclips, Kirby Star Allies, Super Smash Bros. If you need recommendations or aren't sure if a game supports single Joycon play I'm sure we can answer that for you.

  • The Switch can charge off a portable battery bank to make it last longer.

    However the charging port on the Switch is on the bottom, so if you have it standing up using the kickstand you won't be able to plug it in. You can get a stand to put it on which would both put it at a more comfortable height and make the charging port accessable.

    If you're not already bringing a battery bank with you on your trip you really should be. Couple things to note here.

    Most flights are going to limit you to a single battery with at most 100 watt hours and it has to be in your carry on luggage. 100 watt hours is typically gong to be 26800mAh.

    26800mAh would net you an additional 12 hours of play in addition to the built in battery in the older less efficient Switch. So that would definitely last you the whole flight. You could probably get away with a 10000mAh battery and have the Switch last the whole flight but that might be pushing it slightly.

    If the battery bank doesn't charge at at least 5v3a the Switch will use charge faster than the battery bank will supply it. It'll still extend the battery life because it'll be pulling power from the battery bank, but the charge % will still go down on the Switch. Again, if you have questions about specific banks we can answer them.
u/Ramp_Rat · 7 pointsr/redorchestra

sure, I'll copy/paste here:

The higher-end ones tend to be what's called a H.O.T.A.S (Hands On Throttle And Stick). essentially this is a packaged deal with a joystick and throttle quadrant, and is useful for not having to take your eyes (or hands) off the throttle and stick while flying. Some of these can be expensive like the Thrustmaster Warthog, considered the high end of the sticks. The issue with this as well, is it's modeled off a A-10 Warthog's inputs, so you'll also need to get rudder pedals as well since there is no Z-axis twist on the stick.
For more budget options, I have heard really great things about the T-16000 M. You can also buy the stick and throttle separately if you dont have the cash for both right now.

Another company is VKB, a Russian company but uses magnetic "MARS" sensors. I actually use their Black Mamba and love it, however the item has since been discontinued and the company itself is hard to get hold of. They currently have affordable sticks modeled on the German KG12 - flight stick used in BF109's and FW 190's (although no throttle quadrant with it). Available on Amazon its called Gladiator

Saitek makes several sticks, however they're in a transitioning period. They were just bought-out by Logitech and some people have complained about quality issues with their newer sticks and lack of customer support, so I'd only recommend them if you can get a great deal on a stick on sale, or possibly a used one for cheap. Their models are the X52 Pro, X-55, and X-65. I had the 52 Pro and never had any issues, but its one of those buy beware moments with them right now.

And then there's really affordable sticks that work fine too, such as the logitech extreme 3d pro and Thrustmaster T-Flight X. These are reliable sticks that lack some of the fancy things like buttons and dials for radiator management for example. I know guys who fly using these and love it.

Another thing that is highly recommended to get, but is not required to play the game, is called a Track IR. If you watch in my video, I'm swiveling my head back and forth to check my 6, and make sure theres no enemy aircraft diving on us. I'm not using the mouse, or any input to look around, rather I have a clip on my headset that uses IR sensors to turn my head in game without having to take my hands off the HOTAS. Here's a video of how it works. Again, not necessary to buy, but one of those things to hope to get down the road. There are free alternatives called Freetrack which uses a webcam, I think. I havent messed with that but I know a few guys who do use it and are happy with it.

I think thats a fairly decent summary. Feel free to PM with any questions, or check out our group's forums if you'd like to do some more research

You can also check out r/hotas which is a great community dealing with news, special offers, user reviews, etc


u/lololoz · 1 pointr/wow

It's all a bit trial and error really.


The most basic's I'd say to start off with would be to rebind Q E R F (use WASD to move and pan the camera around with your mouse, though some will say to rebind S as well but if you're new to keybinds I'd personally say keep S as a move backwards key, AKA PVP'ers shame button :P ).


Q and E I've personally found are best for the button's you are going to press the most - like filler spells without cooldowns/with procs ie. Frostbolt and Ice Shards (iirc, haven't played a Mage in a while).


Spells like DOT's and/or cooldowns are good for 1-5 because they are a little further away but still easily reachable, and you won't need to press them constantly- if you're anything like me your hands linger around the WASD area by default.


R and F are good keys for situational/utility spells (like an interrupt for example - something that isn't part of a regular rotation, but is still easily accesable when you need it).


As something that is trivial but helpful is to bind your mount button to something like CTRL+Space. It's small but is one of those stupid things that when you get used to it it just makes sense.


Then as you become more comfortable you can add more keybindings (like Z X C V) and using modifiers like SHIFT and CTRL (like SHIFT+Q, SHIFT+E), but to get you going I'd say this is a good starting point. The best thing I'd say would be to practice on a training dummy and change around the keybindings as you prefer until your rotation feels comfortable and you build muscle memory.


If you are new to the game and need a hand getting the rotation down, or even leveling a new class the addon TellMeWhen and u/Chesderman keep profiles updated to import at that tell you the rotation (it's not 100% all you'll ever need, but it does help a great deal).


As other people have mentioned, a multi-button mouse can make the process easier, but it's still a learning process all the same. I personally haven't used one with more than 2 extra buttons, but someone did suggest [this mouse](
=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) on /r/pcmasterrace as a good entry point without breaking the bank.


Is there anything obvious I've missed fellow keybinders? I haven't really typed up a begginer guide to keybinding before.

u/KoolAidMan00 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I highly recommend a glass screen protector:

Not only will this protect the Switch display but it makes the device feel much more premium like a smartphone.

The Pro Controller is excellent. I have two DualShock 4s (my least favorite), two XB1 controllers for my PC (love them), and IMHO the Switch Pro Controller is one of the best out there. Its a luxury purchase but its worthwhile if you put in as much time as I have.

As for indies, I own many on Steam and will be rebuying as many as I can justify on my Switch. I have Shovel Knight on four platforms and the Switch is my favorite place to play it.

I currently recommend Shovel Knight, Binding Of Isaac Afterbirth+, Gorgeous Explosion Machine, Thumper, Jackbox Party Pack 3, and GoNNER. In the future I'll be buying or rebuying Enter The Gungeon, Overcooked, Stardew Valley, Towerfall Ascension, Rocket League, DUCK GAME, Hollow Knight, pretty much anything I can justify buying twice on top of what I already have on Steam.

Going forward I'll prioritize indie purchases on Switch over Steam unless there is a multiplayer component I need for my PC gaming group or it just plays better with mouse and keyboard.

For non-indies I recommend Puyo Puyo Tetris and Disgaea 5, at least if you're a fan of competitive puzzle games or tactical RPGs. :)


u/MyDadCantCount · 8 pointsr/smashbros

What you need to get started playing Melee:

  1. A Nintendo Wii (in case you ever become interested in Project M) available for about $40+ various places on the internet. Try to get the white one as some of the black models does not have slots for Gamecube controllers. Make sure the Wii has the sensor bar, power cables, AV cables, at least 1 wiimote. You also need a Gamecube Memory card so you can save the game. Alternatively if Wii isn't your thing you could purchase a Gamecube bundle like this.

  2. A Wired Official Nintendo Gamecube Controller (negates wireless interference at large tournaments) available from anywhere from about $10+ Used on eBay to about $40 new on Amazon. Let me stress again OFFICIAL Nintendo controller, third parties are generally shoddy and not worth the investment regardless of their price.

  3. A copy of Super Smash Bros Melee, price normally fluctuates from $30-$60 depending on site and demand.

  4. A CRT television. The big ol' chunky ones. These are the only kinds of TV that do not have input delay for Melee. You can find them for free on craigslist or can buy one at a garage sale or thrift store for $5-10 dollars. Make sure it has AV hookups and a remote or a built in button to switch the inputs. Remember to lift with your legs or get a friend to help cause they can be heavy (my main one is 42" and 300lbs).

  5. A Smashboards Account. Everything Smash related can be found there. Character discussions, tourny info, ect...

    Extra suggestions:

  • Find human opponents in your area ASAP. You'll probably lose and lose badly but you learn infinitely more than playing against CPUs. Finding good players who are willing to show you the ropes is key.

  • Watch this and Go Here to learn advanced techniques.

  • Once you get a feel for all the characters choose the one you like best and stick to them as this will help you improve faster. This is the most current Melee tier list, which is basically a power ranking of characters. That said, do not take it too seriously, anyone in S or A tier is generally viable and even those below it are feasible if you put in the time and effort (just look to this subreddit's hero aMSa who consistently puts up amazing results with Yoshi)

  • If you're not having fun you're probably not playing right.

  • I strongly recommend watching The Smash Bros documentary it was created and funded by the community and gives a really in depth look into the history of competitive Melee.

  • If you want to play Project M (the second most popular Smash game currently) you need a copy of SSB Brawl, a 2gb SD Card, and the hackless edition PM files.

    Hopefully that helps. If you have any other questions I can try my best to answer them tomorrow.
u/Thetomas · 2 pointsr/starcitizen

"BEST" probably the THrustmaster warthog Hotas, but also the most expensive (I just bought the joystick alone for 270 to use in my HOSAS setup, can't wait till it delivers on friday)

"best VALUE" probably the thrustmaster 16000m combo. The thrustmaster stuff seems to be the only sticks that use the "HALLS" system, and between that and regular sticks, the difference is night and day (i've compared it to CH flightsticks, microsoft, and logitech stuff...)

My suggestion is to consider HOSAS as well (hands on stick and stick), as I enjoy the number of analog degrees of freedom a joystick for the left hand provides. (16000m can be modified for the left hand, the warthog joystick, and many others, are right hand only.

As for VR, SC isn't really there yet, but I have a vive and know it's awesome. The recent price drops on the oculus are going to drive a lot of people their direction, but I don't regret buying the Vive in the least, and might still do it if I were buying today (but to be fair, i hate facebook).

as for touchscreens, there's some apps for android tablets that allow you to use them as "additional screens" which have game controls on them. It's like bringing one of the in game ship control panels into real life. They're super neat, but I don't actually use them, so I don't have a solid recommendation. Check out the Roccat Powergrid.

u/hawks5999 · 1 pointr/swtor

As others have said, if you plan on playing a while, subscribe for a month to get all the expansions.

However, I would suggest you put this off as long as possible. I started F2P during a May 4th promo 3 years ago. And I played 2 months just as happy as I could be as free to play. There was some limitation to my inventory, fast travel, etc but I just played around those limitations and had a blast. Then BioWare offered a 1 month subscription bundle that didn’t require storing a credit card (something I was trying to avoid doing). I took the 1 month of subscription and realized how much more was available as a subscriber and I could never go back to those limitations of free to play (or preferred even) and really enjoy it. So play free until you are sure you are ready to invest into the game regularly.

And once you do decide that (as I suspect you will, it’s worth it), the best way to kick it off is by using the Amazon Bundle, which will give you 3 months sub time, a mount, and bonus cartel coins for less than 3 months of subscribing. There’s also a bundle on Origin that has a unique mount, bonus cartel coins and 2 months of subscription for less than the subscription cost of 2 months.

Have fun!

u/Sheecacaa3 · 7 pointsr/SSBPM

There's a bunch of guides and stuff as soon as you first enter the site.

>I want to do anther's ladder but I don't know exactly what it is

It's a match-making website where you can find matches, and chat with people in real time. The matches can be anything from Bo3 to Bo5 'ranked' ladder matches, to endless friendlies, to doubles matches. Basically, anything you could do at your local tourney, you can do on Anther's. (except money matchs afaik)

>Can I access it on my wii?

I mean.. maybe? You'd want to use your computer/mobile device if possible.

>Do I have to use an emulator on my laptop?

For Project M, most likely. You'd be hard pressed to find other people that still use the Wiimfi servers and play on their Wiis. The official way to play PM on Anther's is Dolphin Emulator, and there are plenty of guides to set it up, as well as optimize it if you have a slower computer.

>Can my laptop even run project m smoothly?

Well I play it on my laptop, and it runs fine (I even record while playing most of the time). Most modern computers can run it pretty well. It really depends on your specs though. You could get a lot of advice about that, but nothing beats just trying it out on your own and seeing if it works or not.

>If it is on my pc, than how am I supposed to use a gamecube controller?

There are multiple ways to get a Gamecube controller working on a computer, but the easiest/best ways are the official WiiU adapter or the Mayflash 4 Port adapter. They're both the best you can get in terms of lag reduction, but the mayflash is cheaper.

>Either way, how much lag is usually on it? I don't want to throw my timing off.

That really depends on your connection, your opponent's connection, and your own computer. It's usually anywhere between 10ms and 100ms of lag. I usually don't even play with people if the ping is over 60ms. (EC privilege lol) Many top players use netplay for a variety of reasons. Yes, the timing can throw you off if you're jumping from netplay to a tournament set, but if you take the time to adjust properly, then it really shouldn't be a problem. The MU experience and massive variety of playstyles you'll learn is something that Smashers have only dreamed of until recently.

I highly recommend netplay if you can get it working. Almost everyone has troubles setting it up at first, including myself, so don't get upset if it takes a couple days to get it working. I've probably clocked in over 1000-2000 hours on Netplay. It's great!

Hope this helps. Good luck!

u/relevant_pet_bug · 1 pointr/buildapc
Yes, thank you. Op this build is a great starter build. I am going to break it down, and post some alternatives or upgrade options.

CPU: the ryzen 2600 is the best price performance cpu on the market right now. It is powering a ton of midrange and even low high end gaming pcs. GET THIS.

MOBO. a b450 is a good entry level mobo and will work with 2000 series cpus without a bios update.

Ram. Team Vulcan works great with Ryzen. a lot of budget ram does not. If you can spare the extra cash, it is much cheaper in the long run to go with 16GB of the same RAM for $125 if you can spare the extra 45.

An HDD. This is fine. Personally, I would find a way to spend the extra money and go with an 500 GB SSD like this, or this. I would then buy an HDD later. If those SSDs take this build over 700 which appears to be your price limit, then feel free to go HDD.

When it comes to PSUs I don't like this one from above, nor do I like Thermaltake smart. The one thing you should never cheap out on is the PSU, because if a bad PSU fails it can take down your whole system. The above model is described as a safety hazard by review sites, and the Thermaltake 500w smart is not recommended for the same reason. I would get this one. For 10 bucks more you get a classic excellent PSU. While this PSU doesn't have modern PSU features, this is a very solid PSU from a name brand. However, if you want a legit modern PSU then this one would be great, if you can spare the 23 extra bucks.

Finally, the Keyboard and mouse are fine. I got platinum god in the original binding of isaac on a cheapo keyboard combo like this. However, If you want some legit budget products check out the company red dragon. The red dragon kumara k552 is a well reviewed entry level mechanical keyboard, and the red dragon m801 mammoth mouse is excellent. Note that despite the name, the red dragon mammoth is actually great for small handed/medium handed people, as a short 5'6" dude with small hands I love my mammoth, it's the best mouse I ever used.

Here is a build with my suggestions for cost comparison purposes, it will be over your budget of 700 but it is a legit core gaming pc. Here is something to consider:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $165.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - B450M PRO-M2 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $64.99 @ B&H
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $124.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda Compute 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $73.73 @ Amazon
Video Card | PowerColor - Radeon RX 580 8GB Video Card | $219.99 @ Amazon
Case | DIYPC - P48-W ATX Mid Tower Case | $29.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $51.65 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VP228H 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $99.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Redragon - K552 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $29.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Redragon - Mammoth Wired Laser Mouse | $26.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $888.19
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-30 03:31 EDT-0400 |

The biggest change is that I added an RX 580 which is a 1080 60 FPS beast which should allow 60 FPS at 1080 on high or ultra for the next 2 years at least in modern Triple AAA games.

I also added a 1 MS gaming monitor. This monitor is totally unnecessary for small time indies like don't starve, however, once you get a gaming pc, you might want to play some esports titles like fortnite and a 1 ms monitor will be nice for that.
u/LOL_Wut_Axel · 1 pointr/buildapc

Change the processor for an i3-4130. Faster and only a few bucks more at $120, not to mention you have an upgrade path to a Core i5/i7 if you want later. Or, if you can, budget get an i5-4590 and you get a quad-core.

With that obviously comes a change of motherboard, and the best one for the price is the MSI B85-G41. It costs $70.

Changing that TN panel monitor for an IPS model only costs $5 more and gets you a screen that looks a lot more elegant, has much thinner bezels and because it's IPS has much better viewing angles, better contrast ratio, and better color reproduction. The monitor is something you use every single time you use the computer, so don't skimp on it.

Corsair AF series fans are very good, there's no denying that, but honestly there's quite a good amount of fans that are better for the money. But if you MUST have purple LEDs, they're okay. For something functional, Rosewill Hyperborea 140mm will push a lot more air (90CFM vs 57CFM) and they're also 4-pin PWM and don't use cheap sleeve bearings so while not silent they are relatively quiet (I have them). There's also the 120mm version that pushes the same amount of air. $13 for 140mm, $10 for 120mm. Honestly if you're on a budget I'd say to spend more on stuff that's gonna make your games run better and your PC run cooler, but if you'd rather spend it on making it look flashy that's fine too.

As for the case, there's really no other one that has that combination when it comes to color, but there are better options for the money. If you want a mix of both it looking flashy and having good features there's the Rosewill Patriot for $60. It comes with four blue LED 120mm fans to the two on the Bitfenix, meaning you could also buy two fans instead of four. It also comes with a side panel window if you wanna look at your components.

The graphics card you should definitely change as there's much better options for the money. For example there's the Radeon R9 270 which will give you performance within 10% of the GTX 760 for only $160 and will stomp on the 750 Ti, meaning on most demanding games you can run at High settings instead of Medium.

The keyboard you should change. You can get the Monoprice Cherry MX Blue for $51 on sale, saving you $40.

As for the mouse, I know it's a great mouse, but there are also cheaper options that will give you the same options. Not from Logitech themselves, though, obviously. This one has 4.5/5 reviews on Amazon, has weights, on-the-fly DPI buttons, and 12 macro buttons. Only costs $37 too.

As for RAM, you can pick up Patriot 2x4GB DDR3-1600 for $73 at Newegg and that will do the trick nicely.

Any questions let me know.

u/Khirsah01 · 3 pointsr/3DS

I use TPU cases for both of my N3DSXL's and another one I had to special order from overseas for my N3DS. They do a good job of protecting the systems and still allow me to see the designs on them since I wanted something clear as I have Monster Hunter faceplates on my black N3DS looks like this, and my XLs are the Galaxy Blue and Monster Hunter 4 Ultimate units.

For carrying around, I have an Amazon Basics Case that is small and light and fits in a backpack or purse easily while protecting the whole system. Fits both N3DS and N3DSXL units with the TPU cases on and uses the elastic bands to hold them in place.

For storing at home so they're kept in good shape: I have two of the Smatree Hard Protective Carrying Case which is a much bulkier case, and allows me to keep a 3DS charger with the units if I don't put much else in the zippered pouch on the top half. The inner pouch with the ability to lift it out is an interesting design for keeping the system protected and is a snug fit for N3DSXL's with the TPU case on, but still doable.

Amazon Link for HORI N3DSXL TPU case. It used to be much cheaper, so look around to find the best price.

Amazon Link for the Japanese version HORI N3DSXL TPU case. This alternate link is about half the price for the same exact product that's above.

eBay link for a New 3DS TPU case. I recommend this for N3DS units as the glossy plates are easy to scratch on N3DS units and the plates can be hard to get as it is, don't want them to get scratched when they're hard to find or expensive.

Finally, no matter what unit you get: Always use a screen protector and get one once you decide which system to get to have it ready for when you finally get your system. Some people have waited on getting protectors and have scratched screens day one since the plastic over the touch screen is quite soft.

New 3DS IllumiShield Screen Protector Set

New 3DS XL Tempered Glass Protector Set Note: I have used and recommend the HORI brand, but those seem to be out of stock on Amazon and I'm not sure where to look for it.

Then, there's also GRIPS for the units as they're quite small and thin and quite a few people have problems holding their units. I like the styles from CyberGadget and use their grips, but there's also silicone grips that some people like. You can take off the TPU case on the bottom and put the grip on and just store the TPU case somewhere as you use the top half of the TPU case to protect the top shell of your unit. Obviously, any grip out there will bulk up your system and make them less portable and unable to fit in any of the cases. However if you're at home, it's nice to be more comfortable with your gaming sessions.

The two I'll link are my preferred grips for several reasons: They keep everything on the 3DS accessible as some of the grips are known for blocking off the game card slot and even the stylus, they have a game card door on the back that can store 2 game cards in there, they're easy to put on and take off, and won't scratch your system as they're covered in a rubberized material.

New 3DS Grip from CyberGadget You should be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.

New 3DS XL Grip V2 from CyberGadget I use this every day on the N3DSXL that I play.

u/FS_NeZ · 2 pointsr/speedrun

As someone who started with Kaizo a few months ago, I can actually give some advice.

I started with Learn2Kaizo - big mistake. It won't help you much as it's mostly trick into trick into trick and doesn't have "real" levels. I then played through Quickie World 1, started Kaizo Kindergarten and finally played through Robfather World which I recently started speedrunning. Overall, I learned the most in Quickie World, but I actually recommend Robfather World as the first "real" hack. Learn2Kaizo, Quickie World and Kaizo Kindergarten all have HUGE balancing flaws. Robfather World has one harder level, sure, but overall the hack is way better as a starting point. Quickie World helped me improve a lot, but one level, Sawrfing Castle, took me over 9 hours to beat - almost half my total hack clear time. Playing Quickie World as the 2nd or 3rd hack would've been better probably.

How to start with Kaizo:

  1. Get one of these USB adapters:
  2. Buy an original SNES controller somewhere (or already own one), plug it into your PC with the adapter
  3. Get a SNES emulator like
  4. Download the original SMW rom somewhere on the internet
  5. Download FLIPS:
  6. Download the patch to Robfather World:
  7. Open FLIPS, open the patch, open the SMW rom, save the new Robfather World rom
  8. Open your SNES emulator, got to Settings, activate "Reduce input lag"
  9. Open Robfather World.

    (The other method, or if you want to play on original hardware is to buy an original SNES, an Everdrive, a SSD card and a good ol' TV. All that does though is further reduce input lag so it's a cost/reward kinda thing.)

    As general advice... take your time, be patient, don't rush it, stay focused. Kaizo teaches life lessions. Dying over and over and over and over again is part of the learning curve. Get used to it. Yeah... you will die. An awful lot. 50 times on the same jump? Sure. 100 times? Definitely. But every Mario that dies one pixel later in the level is PROGRESS. Be proud if you die on the 2nd jump instead of the 1st. Be HELLA PROUD when you die right before the checkpoint. Don't rage. Retry. Until you get it. And then you will get it.
u/swissarmychris · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

For accessories, some kind of carrying case is probably a must-have unless you're planning to just use it at home. I don't have any specific recommendations, but there are plenty of them out there and they are all more or less fine. Pay attention to the size -- there are some larger cases that will have room for cables/AC adapter, and smaller ones that just fit the Switch + some games. Which one you go for is up to you.

Other accessories you might want are a screen protector (I'm using this one and it's great) and maybe a Pro Controller if you want a more comfortable docked experience. An SD card isn't necessary unless you plan to download a lot of games instead of buying carts. (Digital-only indie games are generally pretty small.)

The two Joy-con controllers (the things that attach to the sides of the tablet) can be held horizontally and used as independent controllers in a lot of local multiplayer games, so you can do multiplayer out of the box.

The Switch is pretty popular, so MK8DX has plenty of people playing. Zelda is extremely good, and is a perfect jumping-in point for the series. I highly recommend both games.

Some other good games that you might like, depending on your tastes:

  • Splatoon 2: A team-based shooter where you are trying to cover an arena with your team's color of ink. This is primarily online, and doesn't have local multiplayer.
  • Mario + Rabbids: A turn-based strategy game in the vein of XCOM, if you're familiar with that. It's fairly accessible, so if you like turn-based games or strategy games at all, you're probably enjoy this.
  • Snipperclips: A local multiplayer puzzle game where you and your partner cut your paper bodies into different shapes to solve puzzles.
u/AphoticAffinity · 1 pointr/redditblack

The top brands are Logitech, Razer, and Steelseries.

Here are some recomendations:

Razer Deathadder (for FPS) - THe DeathAdder is the staple for a lot of FPS gamers. Simple, smooth, responsive, and comfortable. Personally I love the feel of this mouse in my hand and it is quality built.

Logitech G700s (FPS/MMO)- The G700s is one of the best rechargible gaming mice with long lasting battery so you don't have to worry about it dying mid game. Also with over 13 programmable buttons on the mouse it's great for MMO and MOBA games! Personally I've only used this mouse a limited amount so I can't say just how long the battery lasts but it is REALLY comfortable in the hand and has great response.

Logitech Proteus - (FPS/MMO) - Great customizable mouse with variable weights and adjustable palm rest. 11 customizable buttons. Perssonally I haven't used this mouse but heard good things about it.

Steelseries Sensi (FPS) - I can't praise this thing enough. Smooth, comfy, basic and beautiful! Personally I have this mouse personally and love it. it's not fancy but boy does it just work!

u/BraveSirHenry · 10 pointsr/hoggit

I'm assuming you have a T.Flight HOTAS X, which is what I used to use. It's a good HOTAS for the simpler planes like the SU-25T, but you're going to have to get good at using modifiers, or make some concessions.

I'd highly recommend rebinding the slew controls for the TV to the 8 way you're using for trim, or create a modifier for it. DCS was not designed for large amounts of keyboard use, using the keyboard to move all your sensors is not advised.

"I feel like controls could be a bit simpler"

The SU-25 is really as simple as it gets, the aircraft is not fully modelled. The full fidelity modules have the whole cockpit modelled, so all the switches and stuff actually work. I don't want to sound like a "gate keeper", more people getting into DCS is always a good thing, but DCS isn't easy, you need to know what you're in for. It's going to take a lot of time, you're not going to be good in a week, or even a month. Practise practise practise.

You don't specifically need a really good HOTAS for DCS, but it really helps. As waffle also said, don't put your keyboard behind your screen if you need to use it. If you want a good HOTAS recommendation the T.16000M is very good, I own pretty much all the modules, and it's been perfect for all of them.

u/JnRx03 · 1 pointr/ShouldIbuythisgame

As someone who's owned a Switch since launch, I say the joycon and comfort grip are fine i'll try to put this in sections.

Controller: You can try the pro controller, but in my experience with the two i've bought, I've found that the left stick if you flick it on direction it bounces back the other direction, you may not find this to be an issue right away, but it caused a lot of issues for me when playing Sonic Mania and other games that require quick stick movement.

Cases: If you can get your hand on the Zelda Special Edition case that'd be great, but otherwise [This]( /dp/B06XYPPJ6M/ref=pd_cp_63_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RBHQCTFZSKGBBVMX8GZ2) and This seem to be pretty good hefty cases.

Also This protective slim case should serve as nice armor to protect it from scratches.

Games: Personally i'd reccomend, Zelda: Breath of the Wild, Splatoon 2 (my fav), Sonic Mania, Mario Kart 8, Snipperclips (if you have someone to play with), these are all games I mostly enjoy, i'd recommend ARMS as well, but i found the game more frustrating than fun.

Screen Protector: This one shall do they're all mostly the same, just different price points and popularity, the on difference between some is tempered glass vs plastic.

I say always go with Tempered glass, unless you prefer the plastic for one reason or another

u/Saxophobe · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Similar to you, but for the carrying case there is a much better one. (Nintendo's own one is too soft, so the thumb-sticks are a bit vulnerable in there from getting bashed). While I love the stand feature on it, I hardly ever use that, as there are better ways of doing it where you can access the cable from underneath, like you can with the separate foldaway stands. Also, there's not much room in Nintendo's case to carry any extra stuff (so is no good for the stand, and not even enough room to carry so much as a charging cable).

I've bought and tried quite a few different pouch and accessory combinations in order to solve this, and the best case so far out of all of them is the Orzly Hard Pouch Carrying Case (as there's tones of extra joy-con room aswell as room for lots of extra stuff like cables, games, battery pack, etc, aswell as my foldaway stand).

It's also padded extremely well on the inside whilst being a hard shell on the outside. Yet they've done all that whilst doing an exceptionally good job of being the most space conscious on the inside compared to all the other ones I've used, whilst also not making it too big on the outside.

And the best foldaway stand by far is this one...


So the best case for it to fit in with the switch and everything else inside that I use 100% of the time is this one...


u/Nekryyd · 2 pointsr/GamerGhazi

Well, since KBM = Godmode...

Why not just enable KBM support by default on console?

For about the same price as a new controller you could hunt around and find a playable KBM set up.

Even in the article you cite, the game's director only says that it should be either/or, he does not rule out KBM. He only says that if a console is going to have KBM input, it should be plug and play and equally accessible.


> There's no major difference between a $20 mouse and a $200 mouse except some more buttons, a few LEDS and the branding.

You are drawing the absolutely wrong comparison. Some products are all about branding and style and are definitely WAY overpriced (ahem), but there is a distinct difference between playing on this, and this(anti-ghosting is more important at really high competitive levels and players can be picky about an AG layout, but it's less important than the fact that mechanical keys offer much better options for tactile feedback and are almost universally more precise). And a MASSIVE difference between this and this. That gaming mouse has SIX TIMES (including scroll wheel button) the amount of buttons as the normal mouse. This is literally the difference between going from the face buttons of an original NES controller to the number of buttons and triggers on modern controllers. Sure, you could try and cluster as many functions as close to your left hand as possible, but having them all right at your thumb is a massive difference, to say nothing of the on-the-fly DPI adjustments that many gaming mice have (EG - most commonly used to instantly switch between high and low sensitivity settings for better sniping).

I personally have a blue-switch KB that is immensely satisfying to type on and is great for gaming (particularly when doing something, like a dash, that requires a double-tap of a key). I hope to never have to go back to a membrane KB.

As far as my mouse goes, I paid something like $50 for a mouse that has 8 programmable buttons and a DPI switch for up to 4 different DPI settings (though I only use two). It was a huge advantage over my old mouse for the shooter I was playing at the time (Planetside 2, an MMOFPS).

So I'll circle back to what I originally said and will restate that I think the decision at the hardware level to exclude KBM was an ill-thought "walled garden" approach to protecting controller sales. Again, if your cited article is to be believed, Microsoft may end up opening up KBM support. It only makes sense because media entertainment devices, such as consoles, are converging with the set-top HTPC/video box market.

Hell, again, per your article, Sony even already offers a keypad/mouse combo.

u/KesafatLegacy · 1 pointr/swtor

Two weeks in and this game is still providing quality content! Went through both Sith lines and now half way through the Jedi Knight class. The dark side choices on republic aren't actually too bad, but personally I can't wait to return to Empire.. that's my true home, heard great things about agent class. Had a bit of cartel points saved up for a while and with the amazon bundle I was able to get the new lightsaber that just recently came out... and man does it look amazing with a white-black crystal! This game is an amazingly true Star Wars experience and any Star Wars fan should at least sign up for the free bundle just to experience this amazing game and story. Previous subs should definitely come back for the free 7 days of subscription time and experience some of the new content- only takes 1 month of sub to unlock all new expansions!

My Character Screenshot:
My Swtor Referral Link:
Use my Referral Link above and get these freebies:
Returning Subscribers will get:
Complementary server transfer
7 days of subscription free
The "Preferred Friends Bundle" which includes:
Customization Control: Display Titles
Customization Control: Unify Colors
Unlock: Inventory Module
Unlock: Crew Skill Slot
New Subscribers will get:
The "Jumpstart Bundle" which includes:
1x Quick Travel Pass
5x Minor XP Boost
1x Inventory Module
Amazon Bundle - Only $40!
Don't forget about the Amazon Bundle that includes:
($45) 90-day Subscription +Additional 1650 Cartel Coins/550 Monthly Sub Freebie
($15) Knights of the Eternal Throne Expansion
($20) 2400 Cartel Coins

u/CallMeMalice · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

(1) I prefer Estore games for three reasons:

() you can't lose the game(tied to your account)

() you don't have to carry the game with you

() you don't waste time switching out the cartridge

Also, I've seen some comparisons that say that games installed on switch/sd have a bit faster loading times, but that's a minor thing.

Some games can be found cheaper on cartridge though, and you can resell the cartridge.

Plus, you can create e.g. japanese eshop account to buy games not available in europe/usa.

(2) Depends on the game and your connection.

(3) I got this glass protector( ) which is something you're probably going to need, since switch has plastic screen. You get two for ~10$, I have no use for the second one lol. Don't know about the "shock" protection and I try not to scratch it anyway. It's a bit thicker(it's a glass after all), but does not interfere with dock or anything.

(4) I haven't noticed anything out of ordinary. The bummer is that you need to power your switch in the dock in order to display it on other screen(or at least I had this issue), so if you get your dock, be sure to take usb-c charger as well. You might want to check out the mini-docks that came out recently.

(5) BOTW is great, but there are many other great games. I love Slaptoon 2, there is Has Been Heroes which is quite nice, Mario Kart 8 and Disgaea 5 are also great(the latter has demo at eshop). Snipperclips are fun to play with anyone. There are other games depending on what you want, and more are coming. BOTW is great game though, definitely must have.

No games or apps built in.

u/RDDanna · 7 pointsr/SSBM

if you want to play on your computer, I'll recommend the most recent dolphin netplay build, that and complete instructions can be found here.

Of course, you will need a ROM of melee which you should definitely obtain legally and not through a download of it somewhere on the internet.

You will need a controller. I recommend looking at your nearest thrift store, or joining the facebook group for your local melee scene and asking if anyone would be willing to sell one to you. Or you can buy a new smash 4 controller.. Also you'll need an adapter to play on your computer, the mayflash 4 port is the best and cheapest option, but if you already have a wii u with gamecube adapter you can make that work too. Either way follow this guide to set it up. (make sure it's on wii u mode if you end up with the mayflash adapter)

All this being said, this is not the best way to play melee. The best way will always be to play on a wii or gamecube with a CRT TV (long story short, they have way less lag than HD TVs). If you really end up getting into melee you'll end up going this route eventually anyways, so for that I'd recomend agin your local scene for a gamecube/wii and a copy of melee, though copys of melee can be a bit expensive. For a CRT, check craigslist in your area, or just like streetcorners, you shouldn't have too much trouble finding one. Worst case, your local thrift store will probably only overcharge you a little for a decent CRT.

If you don't want to deal with buying a copy of melee. Then you can mod your wii to play a rom of melee. I recommend the 20xx hack pack that is made for melee training. It has a bunch of stuff you can learn to use, but you can also just play regular games on it, so it's good for everything outside of serious tournament use. Here's the official step by step guide for getting 20xx onto your wii.

Outside of that I think your best option is to see if there's any smash fests or tournaments going on around you and just go, hang out with people and play as much as you can.

Also, just some friendly advice, as great of a resource this reddit, or smashboards, or people in general can be, not everything everyone says is accurate, so do your research.

Have fun, and welcome!

PS, no hate for CS:GO from me. Plus I don't think you'll find too much hate for it here in general since mango plays it.

EDIT: I forgt my biggest piece of advice for new players. Spacing is as important, if not more important than tech skill. Make sure you're movement has a purpose. Good luck Dude/Dudette

u/ShaneHaleyPhoto · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Along with what Joshua said, I'm a huge fan of Death Squared and Human Fall Flat. I play with friends and we have a blast, we love the humor of the games and are always laughing at what everyone's doing in the games. Puyo Puyo Tetris is a great single or multiplayer puzzle game. Astro Bears Party is a quick, fun multiplayer game, I picked mine up on sale for under a dollar. All offline.

Crash Bandicoot is a difficult 2.5D platformer, if you haven't played and are into that. I like it, some levels do get a bit frustrating. Snake Pass is one of my favorite games, you control a snake and it very much relies on weird controls and puzzles you have to figure out, based on the weird controls. If you like Portal, you'll love Chromagun. It's like Portal but with colors. Celeste is a death-happy, 2D platformer with the difficulty set on hard. If you want a challenge, Celeste is your game. All offline, all single player.

Online - I just started playing Fortnite and Rocket League, both seem pretty fun so far. Fortnite is a free download, too!

I travel a lot and LOVE this case. It's super small, it has 8 game pouches(and you can probably double up games in each pouch
too), hardshell, water resistant, looks nice and sleek, and I feel safe with it. I'm also just not an accessory person though -- I have just my switch, 3 physical games, thumb grips(like these)(totally unnecessary, just a personal preference), a screen protector(I've heard putting the switch in/out of the dock can scratch the screen), and that case. The case also came with an accessories pouch, but I've never used it.

u/SoJexy · 3 pointsr/MonsterHunter

Hey there! Fellow ex-circle pad pro user. I upgraded to the new 3DS XL from my 3DS XL when it dropped here in NA.

To answer your questions:

>how do you think it compares to the new systems' nubs?

To be brutally honest here, I find the CPP way more responsive compared to the system nub. have really huge hands and found that the nub was a bit tad too small for my taste. But it was still usable and definitely capable of handling the camera changes I needed.

> Which do you find more comfortable?

CPP for sure

> Do you think the nicer screen and better load times are worth the upgrade?

I can tell you right now that the increased performance from the more powerful console is a huge benefit and makes the gameplay and everything much, much smoother. I actually perform way better in hunts because of the higher frame rate. In short - yes it was worth the upgrade. You can always buy a controller grip to ease the lost of the CPP extension (if you're like me and had a more comfortable grip using the CPP). I used this grip for my new 3DS XL and it's wonderful. EDIT: Forgot to mention that the added ZL and ZR buttons for hunter arts are a huge plus as well.

u/LoreCannon · 2 pointsr/EliteDangerous

First thing I will tell you off the bat, get something that's in your budget.

Second... let's talk about what type of setup you want...


You have multiple options, starting with the Thrustmaster HOTAS-X.

At around $50, it gives a satisfying first hotas experience.

Moving up the ladder, you get to the T16000M and it's FCS pack.

If you are lucky, you can get this pack on sale for as low as $89.99 on Amazon, and it offers a great package with plenty of toggles and buttons to fully accommodate E:D's controls. You can even add pedals later on down the line, or pick them up as part of one big package.

Further up the price ladder is the X52 suite of controls. Two options are available, in the flavors of the X52 FCS at around $150 and the X52 PRO at around $200. The differences between the two are less pronounced than the jump from the HOTAS-X to the T16000, but it has some "nice" features for scripting and supposedly higher quality components.

Granted, even after Logitech purchased Saitek, the build quality on these former Saitek sticks is ... so-so.

Another great option is CH's products.




Despite other offerings in the HOTAS world between the X52 Pro, and CH offerings and higher caliber offerings - ignore them.

The X-55 and X-56 are MESSES when it comes to build quality, and it's a crapshoot if you get one that will last.

Your next HOTAS offering is going to be the Thrustmaster Warthog - but you will absolutely need pedals. Which means you're looking at offerings from CH, like the CH PRO PEDALS.

And if you get the warthog, I HIGHLY recommend you use Aussiedroid's scripts and bindings. They are intuitive and utilize the entirety of the throttle and stick.

If it's in your budget, I recommend getting MFG Crosswinds.

Also, VKB makes some T-rudder design pedals that work well.

VKB T-Rudders

However, before anyone tells you differently, or says pedals are shit for yaw. I AGREE, DON'T USE THEM TO YAW. Put yaw on your stick left and right, pitch up and down, and ROLL on your pedals. Right pedal forward, roll right, and left pedal forward roll left. Anyone who does it differently is crippling themselves, especially in PVP. This is a space sim, we don't have to fly space ships like we do aircraft. ROLL ON PEDALS, I'LL SAY IT AGAIN.

Past this point you have offerings from VirPil and VKB, both of which make the best of the best products. They both have better gimbal designs, and stick designs, and come in around $400 for a stick. However, there is no throttle currently, as of this moment, produced by either.

Alternative Setups

One way of side stepping the pedals situation is running dual-sticks, or hands on stick and stick. This has a slightly higher initial cost than most of the cheaper HOTAS options, but also negates the needs for pedals. The caveat being you need sticks that can be used in both left and right hands.

But thankfully, Thrustmaster has you covered. They offer the T16000M in a dual-stick package. Or you can purchase them separately.

You can also buy two separate Warthog sticks, at around $200 each, and get Okona (/u/cavortingwebeasties) over at to convert one over.

VirPil's Mongoose can be setup for ambi use, and VKB will be announcing a left handed Gunfighter grip at SOME point. VKB Gunfighter can be found here.

u/Ziathon3 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I have both and a Vita and love them all. I play a game on the Switch, a game on the 3DS and then a game on the Vita...wash, rinse and repeat. I purchased all three systems around when the Switch came out because I decided I wanted to give mobile/handheld gaming a go. The games on the 3DS are cheaper too than brand new games, but they are a ton of fun.

The 3DS library is amazing and will give many, many hours of entertainment to both of you. The Switch has good games right now as well and also gives many hours of entertainment.

If you get a 3DS XL (although I agree that the New 2DS XL looks great since I never turn my 3D on haha), I would recommend grips like these for longer sessions. Happy gaming!

u/Jordan1719 · 1 pointr/FortniteCompetitive

Lol accidentally deleted my response, but sorry for the late response. Here's the build I came up with. This will be good for fortnite and other daily tasks you would normally do on a computer. It's similar to what I have now just some different brands and a better SSD. Its also good enough to run most AAA titles on pretty good settings too if you want to play some other titles in the future. You can find a different case if you want because most of them are pretty affordable and you can find one in any color you want. Just make sure it's at least a midtower so it'll fit your motherboard. You'll still need a 144hz monitor which will run you about $200 here's the one I use. Then you'll just need a mouse and keyboard. I recommend for a good budget mechanical keyboard the K552 as for the mouse just find one that you like which should be less than $50 unless you go with a newer one I recommend a logitech mouse or a razer. Like I said before I would go to a microcenter if you have one near you because odds are you'll be able to find some cheaper prices than whats listed on pcpartpicker. Let me know if you have any other questions.

u/medullah · 1 pointr/swtor

>I have some high grade weapons for sale but they just sit in the GTN for days at a time. Augments move well and quickly enough but with the requirements for companion influence leveling now being so absurd I have to spend a good chunk of my profits (if I'm lucky) for them to get the required purple grade materials to just keep doing it.

This is part of the problem. Augments and Augmentation Kits are generally the most stable, reliable selling item. However, in order to sell augments, you need 4 crew skills - in your case the base three, Armstech, Scavenging and Investigation. Sounds like you picked Slicing in lieu of Investigation, so you have to buy the purple Investigation mats (which should be relatively cheap).

Ultimately if you want to make money crafting, you're going to need to become self-sufficient - have multiple characters with multiple crafting skills. Even if you don't play them, get another character to level 10 for the 4th skill you need so you don't need to buy parts. Alternatively, just sell the Augmentation Kit Components themselves, which still sell well as other people can craft augmentation kits themselves and hope for a crit.

Really crafting is not going to be your quickest way to riches unless you've already got a good amount of starter money. Running Heroics in a group is still the fastest time vs. credits, though it's definitely not the most exciting.

If you're willing to spend some cartel coins, you can buy something from the cartel market and sell it on the GTN - a Hypercrate will net you 25-30 million depending on the server, and the current Taun-Taun mount and Wampa pet both are selling well currently and will likely skyrocket in price once the Life Day event is over.

If you're a sub and haven't used the promo yet, an easy way to get 2400 cartel coins is to buy the KOTET/KOTFE starter pack for $40 - same price as 90 days of subscription, but it gives you some cartel coins as well. This code can only be used once though so if you bought it last year, you're out of luck.

u/pika9000 · 1 pointr/PS3
  1. Depends on which model you got but the online/store bundles are generally the same

  2. I believe that Final Fantasy 13 is considered to run better (I think). There might be other games, but I don't really know.

  3. The inFamous Collection has downloadable DLC and an extra downloadable 'game.' Metal Gear Solid Legacy Edition has the original PS1 game (MGS 1) as a downloadable code off of PSN. Those are the 2 cases I know where the DLC is downloadable, but I'm pretty sure this applies to all GOTY verssions of games.

  4. It depends on which state you live in (if you live in the US). Do a Google search for your state with 'PSN tax' or something similar.

  5. If you end up buying PS+, you'll find yourself downloading a ton of games pretty quickly. If thats the case, you would probably need to get a new hard drive (a 1TB drive off of Amazon would be most convenient). If you don't get PS+, and don't plan to store music/movies/photos on the machine, of course you won't need it.

  6. If you buy a PS2 game off of the PSN store, it will handle saves on its own. However, if you insert a PS1 disc that you may have, or if you bought a PS1 game off of the PSN store, you'll have to manually install a 'Virtual Memory Card' in the Game Menu on the XMB. Side note, every PS3 is backwards compatible with PS1 discs so if you have a PS1 disc that you want to play put it in.

  7. PS3s are mostly region free (except for a handful of Japanese games). If you want DLC, the PSN account that you use has to match the region the game is from.
    For example, I live in the US. If I were to buy a game from England, and I want to buy DLC for it, I would have to create an EU or British account just for the DLC for that game despite the fact that my PS3 and the IP address for my internet is American. Since you said you live in Australia (at least thats what it seems), and the bundle is off of the US Amazon site, you would have to buy the DLC for infamous and uncharted 1+2 off of the US PSN.

  8. If you want to get good deals, go to /r/GameDeals for good discounts. Generally, that subreddit focuses on PC games, but occasionally they'll have some good deals on console games as well.
u/Noctis_Fox · 1 pointr/metalgearsolid
>but I think watching all the cutscenes online for the games leading up to it should work, right?

Haha, get ready to sit down for a week to watch it all. There are dozens of hours of cutscenes and codec calls. The games prior to V are mostly cutscenes.

The problem here is Kingdom Hearts story wasn't exactly good. It was a mess and it wasn't complicated so it was generally easy to follow. Going into this with just cutscenes will be quite confusing because the game regularly talks about events on a 50 year time line (1964 - 2014).

Save yourself the trouble, get a PS3 if you don't have one, get The Legacy Collection for 25$ on Amazon, and enjoy some of the best titles gaming has to offer. You'll have a better grasp of the story and you'll understand how the games evolved since 1987 (although you can start with the 1998 release Metal Gear Solid, skipping Metal Gear and Metal Gear 2: Solid Snake.)

You play the games by release order, obviously that's how it's intended to be.

The title's you be playing are:

Game | Release Year | Timeline | Necessary Play?
-- | :-- | :-- | :--
Metal Gear | 1987 | 1995 | No
Metal Gear 2: Solid Snake | 1991 | 1999 | No
Metal Gear Solid | 1998 | 2005 | Yes
Metal Gear Solid 2: Sons of Liberty (Substance) | 2001 | 2007-2009 | Yes
Metal Gear Solid 3: Snake Eater (Subsistence) | 2004 | 1964 | Yes
Metal Gear Solid: Portable Ops | 2006 | 1970 | No (although watch the cutscenes, it ties into Snake Eater)
Metal Gear Solid 4: Guns of the Patriots | 2008 | 2014 | Yes
Metal Gear Solid: Peace Walker | 2010 | 1974 | Yes
Metal Gear Solid V: Ground Zeroes | 2014 | 1975 | Yes
Metal Gear Solid V: The Phantom Pain | 2015 | 1984 | Yes
u/VictorMorson · 4 pointsr/OutreachHPG


It's not a major mouse brand, which might instantly turn off a lot of people. However, it's highly programmable, has all of the bells and whistles of an $80 mouse, feels incredibly durable and is not made from flimsy stuff, and the software is utterly amazingly easy to key bind anything you'd like to any button on the mouse, including customizing the DPI. [The DPI buttons can even be re-assigned, with no restrictions.] It's very simple and lightweight, too; it's very good at what it does without any bloat.

The light color change sounds like a gimmick but since you can assign a different color and glow pattern to each profile (which takes about 2 seconds to swap), it helps you easily ID what is loaded onto the mouse.

The drivers are flawless and the button layout is very good; after day 2 with the mouse, I never hit the side buttons on accident thanks to their design.

Long story short, I've had high end expensive mice for many, many years and this is easily the best mouse I've owned in a while. Very sturdy, reliable, and considerably more customizable than the more well known multi-button mice. With 5 customizable DPI levels, it's perfect for MechWarrior, as well.

And all this for the price of a cheap "new computer" freebie-quality mouse. I really recommend this thing. If you're willing to consider a smaller hardware manufacturer, you'll way more than get your money's worth.. doubly so since you get all this for under forty bucks.

ED: The side buttons work very well for MW:O, from strikes to UAVs to coolant, it's nice to have it all on the same location.

ED2: Because of the above I've taken to not customizing games I play all the time, but customizing the mouse to the game. That was doubly nice in Star Citizen since it lacks key binds right now.

u/Lusankya · 1 pointr/halifax

Also, N64 emulation on PC has actually overtaken the N64 itself as the best way to play your favourite old games! It sounds positively heretical, but hear me out.

The N64 has some built-in pseudo-anti-aliasing in the form of blurriness on its analog video out, even with the S-video cables. If you want to get a clear signal on a modern TV, you'd have to use a sharpening upscaler like a Framemeister, which runs well north of $300.

Conversely, Project64 is free, and runs well even on modest computers from the mid-2000's. Even a netbook can run Perfect Dark uprendered to 1080p at 60fps. And man, these old games are even more beautiful than you remember when you see them in true high def. Or b

And, if you get some of these, you get both a lag-free wireless experience, and the most authentic feeling thumbstick you can find short of a genuine new-in-box N64 controller from 1996. Or, if you already have good controllers, a couple of these and a few minutes to calibrate each controller will let you and your buddies huddle around the console in true N64 fashion.

u/ziptofaf · 1 pointr/learnprogramming

> What advantage does this have?

The fact I can simultaneously write code and look at documentation/videos/communicators, you name it. Also when you maximize an app it only covers one screen rather than your whole workspace. Comes in handy every day, working on just one screen makes me very sad. Imho a second screen is a great way to boost your productivity + it's also really cheap (you can pick up a used one for like 50-60€ easily and new ones are around 100€).

As for my complete setup (which is not semi-affordable, just to give you an idea on what people work with):

  • Desktop PC + Dell Inspiron 7570 from time to time (generally desktop unless I work at the office instead of remotely)
  • 34" 3440x1440 for a main screen + 24" 1920x1080. I used to work with triple screen but found a relatively good deal for that monstrous 34" and it replaces two smaller ones by itself.
  • Ducky One2 mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Blue at home. Great indestructible keyboard, ultra loud but also very tactile. Feels great to type on it and it really makes me make less typos. In the office I use Roccat Ryos TKL with Cherry Brown keys. Not nearly as loud or tactile (but in exchange you won't get murdered by your coworkers) yet still very pleasant to type on. A luxury item really but I highly recommend one. Plus it doesn't have to be THAT expensive - you can find actually decent mechanical keyboards for sub 40$.
  • An adjustable electric desk - if you sit 8 hours a day your back will hurt and your life expectancy drops. So I bought one of these to counteract it so now I can alternate between sitting and standing. Imho a must have for prolonged professional work, definitely not something to do when starting out however (mainly because of the price, 450+€ is a hefty pricetag for a desk).
  • And a good chair. Currently I settled with one that more or less looks like this. A relatively costly choice but well, it's really one of these situations when you kinda want to give yourself some comfort. There are cheaper and durable options too however - eg. Ikea Markus is a good chair that doesn't break one's budget (and probably better than anything "gaming oriented"), the only problem is lack of any adjustment with it.
u/Nubsly- · 15 pointsr/starcitizen

As many people have mentioned, Star Citizen is still an in-development title, and there are lots of bugs and will likely continue to be lots of bugs for quite a while.

That being said, there are lots of people who are OK with this and are able to enjoy themselves, some fall on the other end of the spectrum and get really frustrated so it's worth keeping in mind that there is a 14 day refund policy. If you or he decides you aren't satisfied with your purchase, you can submit for a refund at any time in that 14 day window.

If you're still with us and you want to go ahead and buy him something, here's four strong options for you to consider:

1) Buy the Mustang Alpha Starter Package for $45 -

2) Buy the Mustang Alpha Starter Package for $45 -

Then upgrade it to an Avenger Titan using this $20 CCU (Cross Chassis Upgrade is an item that you will find in your hangar on the website after purchase and can then apply it to the Mustang Alpha to convert it into an Avenger Titan) -

Most players in Star Citizen have owned at one point, or currently own an Avenger because it is incredibly versatile for its price allowing you to do both combat and hauling stuff while not being paper thin. It's also the one I'd recommend the most for him. He can always use the CCU system to upgrade his ship to something else later once he has a better idea of what he wants to do.

3) If he's likely to mainly do combat, then perhaps the Arrow would be a good choice $90 -

It will be noticeably more combat capable than the Avenger Titan, but it doesn't have any cargo space. It is a very popular ship right now for combat pilots.

4) If you really want to splurge, then get the Cutlass Black Package $115 -

The Cutlass Black is larger than all the other mentioned ships and it's the first real offering that gives you decent multi-crew features. It has an interior you can walk around in with a couple beds (beds are used for logging off if you're out in space instead of at a station), It has a good sized cargo bay that's great for traders. It has a copilot seat which can be used by a second person to help manage shields etc..

It also comes with a turret for some extra firepower. It has plenty of teeth, and you can't really go wrong with it.


If he really ends up liking the game, he should look into picking up some flight hardware (Joysticks etc..). I'd recommend either the t16000m FCS HOTAS $130

Or the dual t16000m setup $115

You can also just buy a single t16000m joystick for around $60 and then buy a second one later. They can be flipped to lefty pretty easily, so don't feel like you need to buy two right away.

In terms of bang for buck, there is no contest compared to these in the budget arena. I personally fly with two sticks, some people prefer the stick plus throttle.


In closing, my personal advice would be to buy him the Mustang Alpha ($45) and the CCU to the Avenger Titan ($20), then tell him you'll contribute X dollars towards some flight hardware (Joystick/throttle etc) or further ship CCU's once he knows what he wants.

Best of luck on your decision making!

u/BangkokPadang · 0 pointsr/gaming

This is absolutely the best way I've found to play most Indie Games like Shovel Knight, Super Meat Boy, VVVVV, etc. I also use this method when emulating NES/Gameboy/SNES/GBA/etc.

I love it. I have 8 SNES controllers stored in zip-lock bags so I'll always have a good gamepad.

This is the best SNES->USB Adapter I've ever used. I tried a couple, and have used one for Wii as well. Every other one I tried but this one had problems. Most only recognized 2 or 3 button presses at a time, and one in particular (the one for wii) seemed to not only have terrible lag, but seemed to miss button presses all the time. It felt like it was maybe only checking for inputs maybe 30 times a second, and if you pushed the button in between when it was "checking" for button presses, it missed it.

This adapter is the Mayflash brand SNES -> USB adapter, and has 2 inputs in one device, so it is perfect even for local multiplayer gaming. I bought mine on for @ $8.00 US, and they seem to sell for @ $12.00 US now. It would honestly be worth $30 or $40 US.

It can be purchased from here.

I use a mac. I dual boot into windows for a few games, but due to the wonderful market GOG and the Humble Bundle have cultivated, most indie games come out for mac. So, I spend 90% of my time in OSX, and do almost 100% of my gaming in OSX as well. (Until the Oculus Rift comes out, anyway ;-p )

If you, too, use a Mac for most of your gaming, then let me introduce you to the greatest thing for setting up awesome, fluid, game controls OSX has to offer. Controller Mate.

Controller Mate allows you to map any USB Device/Keyboard/Midi Device, etc. to any function, in any program, based on any condition. If the function isn't built in, then you can build it using timers, input counters, axis measurements, etc.

For this application I simply remap each input to the corresponding keyboard key, such as up, down, left, and right arrows as well as the A,B,X,Y,L, and R buttons. I map Start to Enter, and Select to Tab.This makes most games show me the correct buttons instead of generic USB terms such as "button 1" or "button 2."

These mappings are also set to only apply when a particular list of programs is running. This allows me to have multiple keyboard mappings for multiple games, and never have to manually switch between them.

I cannot recommend this program enough. It is a must for any mac gamer, and blows any other keyboard remapping programs out of the water.

It is available fromOrdered Bytes' Website for @ $25.00 US. I got my copy on sale a few years ago for $15.00 US, but it is honestly worth double what they charge for it. I have it controlling not only my games but a bunch of software on my system. It is indispensable.

u/gwdope · 2 pointsr/hoggit

I’m about 5 months into DCS. I played some flight sims when I was a kid, 20 years ago, in the Jane’s F/A-18 days, but nothing until DCS. I bought the Flaming Cliffs pack of modules and the A-10C and learned to fly the F-15C mostly at first but slowly read through the 600+ page manual for the A-10C and worked through the training missions and a few campaign missions. The F-15C is great because it doesn’t take too long to learn and you can be having fun shooting down AI flankers in a 10 solid hours of learning and start to get into tactics, the A-10C is definitely the most complicated thing I’ve ever learned for fun. I usually spend a good hr working on A-10C avionics training, then reward myself by jumping in the F-15 when I sit down for a session.

If you do jump into something like the A-10C, I’d recommend getting a quality HOTAS with lots of hat switches, trying to learn the intricacies of avionics and remember keyboard shortcuts and button modifiers is a very big complexity multiplier. I started with a cheap stick then bought the Thrustmaster t16000m and Throttle which works great for F-15, but isn’t quite up to the A-10, so I bought the Warthog stick and use it with the throttle from the t16000.

u/Applegravy · 1 pointr/n64

while an eventual obtaining of the collection again complete with the boxes and manuals sounds like a much better collection, and while I'm sure there's nothing else you could do to get that car if you're putting up the N64, I hope you know that a set CiB will cost at least twice what you'd sell everything for.

that said, if you really have to sell, at the very least, I think you should keep your controllers, get this adapter and emulate everything. I have that adapter. I love mine. it's very picky with third party controllers, and most don't work, such as my Madcatz turbo controllers, so your SuperPad might not work. but it likes official controllers like the other two controllers you have in that image, and it also likes close replicas like these.

and be aware, on Project 64, I had to find a new controller plugin and change to it for it all to work. after I configured it, Darkman's worked with the controller perfectly. Jabo(which is normally the default one) wouldn't read the joystick properly and N-Rage wouldn't let me use the C buttons. it was very strange. but, the adapter is plug and play, so no drivers to find for that.

the emulator with the actual controllers is the second best experience for it. keyboard controls are just awkward for the N64, and other USB controllers really change the experience because of how peculiar an N64 controller is. even with the occasional graphical glitches through emulation not being perfected, most can be solved between using Project 64 1.6 and 1.7. Space Station Silicon Valley, for example, in 1.6, doesn't show the power cells properly, but 1.7 fixes this.

if nothing else, I hope that my advice for emulating helps lessen the pain for you. I can only imagine what I'd be like without my N64. a lot of really great games I have actual rom cartridges of, and others I emulate with the same setup I suggested you give a try, and for very many, I do both.

u/Zachlombardi27 · 7 pointsr/3dshacks

I think I can do that for ya, honestly. I also have, for the left joystick, little caps that make grip better if that interests you too. Maybe private message me I suppose, get this goin!

Edit: and no purchasing, they're so silly cheap, I got it n the postage etc..

Edit 2: This is the left joystick cover, could hook you up with one of those. I honestly love it. Long gaming sessions are perfect for this seemingly simple and pointless lil' grip.

Edit 3: And this is the c-stick replacement. Someone else linked it above as well, but yeah, the psp-1,000 joystick or whatever. Works really great.

Edit 4: Since I'm really gettin down on all this N3DS speak, I'd like to share this as well. My goodness, it makes gaming 1,000x better. Since the grips are not directly under the 3DS, and they are almost basically on the sides, it makes it feel like a legit, comfortable ass videogame controller! (In the vein of an Xbox or PS4 controller) With how I said the grips are on the sides, it makes it not feel so damn cramped like some of the other N3DS grips can. It's seriously so, SO worth the $15 bucks.

u/Offended_Christian · 0 pointsr/videos

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression a lot of speed runs were done with emulators, especially on older console games. I figure it's easier to stream and all. There might be some kind of verification of the rom file and emulator that is being used, but I really have no idea to that extent.

For N64, I've always used an emulator called Project 64, specifically version 1.6 as it seems to be the most stable with a variety of games. You can download the game files, i.e. roms, from sites like Emuparadise.

For the controller you can just map keys to your liking on the keyboard through the Pj64 settings, but I definitely prefer using an original controller. So if you're looking to go that route, try to buy an original controller or two from Craigslist or a retro gaming shop. Then you'll need to get an usb adapter to connect it to your PC. You'll need to do some configuring/calibrating to get it functioning correctly with Pj64, but it's not overly complicated and I'm sure there are plenty of tutorials out there. Edit: There are third party N64 controllers and even some that have direct USB plugs, but I've never been happy with the quality or feel of them.

If you're looking to get into competitive speed runs, definitely do some more research as there may be specific recommendations for hardware and software setups. What I wrote above is all just from personal experience for gaming leisurely. I still have an original Nintendo 64 console, but I play some games on emulator because I do not have the cartridge or feel like spending the money on one. Hope this helps.

u/AccomplishedSnow0 · 0 pointsr/swtor

It seems like you don't realize that the majority of the rules on that thread is about posting referral codes and how to subscribe. Here let me show you:

      • What is a referral code?


        All subscribed players have a referral code they can share players who have subscribed in the past, but who are not subscribed now, or with players who do not have accounts yet. If another player uses their link and then subscribes, the referrer recieves free Cartel Coins for every month the referred stays subscribed.

        Preferred Players

        If you are a preferred player who has subbed in the past, but you are not subbed now, you can use a referral code to get a free bundle of useful items and 7 days of free subscription (note this does not unlock expansions). Preferred players can only use a referral code once ever 90 days. Please note, that offering in-game credits or item in exchange for referrals is not allowed in this thread.

        Free-to-Play Players

        Free-to-Play players can not use referral links (nothing will happen if you use one).

        New Players Without Accounts

        If you do not have a account yet, you can click a referral code and then sign up. This will give you a small bundle of free items when you create your character.

      • So it sounds like you really need to start arguing for a separate screenshots thread
u/1sie · 9 pointsr/flightsim

I see someone already mention DCS, but since you mention something to ease in to the world of flight sims, i wouldn't recommend it, at least for now. DCS is as hardocore sim as it gets for civilians.

Then you have FSX, a good compromise between realism/accessibility, though it is kind of a dead game that has no further development.

Another alternative is Take on Helicopters, from Bohemia Interactive, the makers of ARMA.
Decent flight model, lots of mission content that actually puts the flying to use, and comes at a great price. Only downside is it needs a PC with a very good processor to run smoothly.

ARMA3, i suppose is also an alternative, it uses the same flight model, got tons of choppers and has better performance nowadays cause its always being optimized (still needs good CPU though). It´s a military sandbox with much more to do than just flying (infantry, all sorts of vehicles, it's huge) and the flight model has 2 versions, easy, and advances (taken from take on helicopters), the sceneries (maps) are gorgeous and very detailed and i truly enjoy flying in it.


As for controls; the [new thrustmaster HOTAS] ( came out recently, has wonderful reviews. If it´s anything like it's predecessor (which i own), it's unbeatable in price/quality ratio,

u/Goosebeans · 1 pointr/DestinyTheGame

There aren't any solid solutions that will be both device agnostic and inexpensive, unfortunately. If you end up sticking with the X360, my favorite has been the XBox 360 Wireless Headset. Alternatively I had an extra set of Plantronics M Series earloop and eartips that I stuck onto the 'set and I find them to be much more comfortable / better at remaining in place. In all, with the optional kit, can run you from $25-$40 (sometimes you'll find a dirt cheap sale on the communicators somewhere, especially for like the MW3 edition). Personally I wouldn't go any higher in cost for an X360 solution, unless you go full-blown with an Astro Mixamp Pro and a favorite, high quality headset (expect to spend anywhere from $200-$500 altogether, or higher if you go really nuts).

A solid, dollar for dollar, PC / PS4 solution would be to get the SteelSeries v2 paired with an adapter like this ($60-$80 solution, depending). The DS4 has a 3.5mm jack that will support in-game sound as well as chat. The downside to it is it's a little underpowered. A lot of people don't have issues with it, but I'm rather picky. Thankfully the SteelSeries v2 only has a 32 Ohm impedance and an accompanying low-ish sensitivity level. So they don't take much to drive, but still -- to me the sounds for anything on the DS4 are a little muddy. To forego it, you would need to spend a little more money. Next step up, which works great for the PS4, would be the Sony Wireless Gold for around $80, but while it's a great solution for the PS4 I find it subpar on the PC. To get better sound out of the PS4 you would have to go the Astro Mixamp Pro route.

For PS4 you could also go the opposite direction in pricing and get the $12 PS Vita Earbuds and just shove those in the DS4 jack. While still an inline mic (will be picking up a lot of ambient noise) these are far better than what you can get out of the packaged earbud / mic with the PS4. If your soundcard doesn't support mic input via the headphone jack and only has the separate 3.5mm, can always use another adapter that goes in the reverse. Or just simply save up for a different headset for PC.

u/Dancthetank · 1 pointr/wiiu

Buy this to use GameCube controllers with your Wii U, it's also on EBay

I have 2 and I'm ordering 2 more. They are fantastic. Hook up either a wired controller or a wavebird base and it works great with either. No delay.

The Eshop is getting better week by week. The upgrade fee for $1.50 from Wii VC titles to Wii U VC titles is awesome because you get full tablet support once it's a Wii U supported game. Even if the game is not Wii U supported the games can be transferred and still played through the "Wii" app on the Wii U. They work just as easy as they did on Wii. I use my adapter to use GC controllers with them. Right now I'm Rolling through OoT and it's awesome. Beats the shit out of the Wii controller Nintendo offered before.

Go for it. More games are coming out in the coming weeks and months. I love my Wii U and ill never think twice about ever having it. I've convinced a few friends to pick one up as well :)

u/Allaakmar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Here’s my loadout:

First, I like being able to play in tabletop mode as I like having the joycons removed and separated while I play on the go, I carry the straps (though I removed the strap part so it’s just a way to add extra width to the joycons) and this tablet stand because I do like the normal one.

Next up, I use a portable USB-C charger with a PD port on it. I used to use a third party Switch charger since I’m not using it to dock, but I like having the option to charge my phone as well.

Finally, I use a case to carry everything in. The normal slim ones definitely aren’t enough, so I use one like this that fits everything so I can have everything on the go in a compact space.

TLDR: I keep a tablet stand, joycon straps, and a portable charger in a large case for when I’m on the go with my Switch. None of these are must haves, but I enjoy them all.

One ESSENTIAL accessory is a screen protector. I got a small scratch on my bezel from my dock and it still bugs me I didn’t get a screen protector immediately. It baffles me that there’d be a design flaw like that, but it happens.

Finally, a lot of people like the Satisfye grips. While I’ve never found them necessary, a lot of people have. It would also be worth getting the bundle with the carrying case since it wouldn’t fit in a normal one.

Hope this helps or gives you some ideas of what you might want.

u/Omowotomo · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Yo my dude. Welcome to Elite.

Question 1: It is honestly up to you how you prefer to play. Do you want the Wild West in multiplayer? Or do you want to just relax and do some space things without being interrupted. I honestly do both depending on the mood im in. Your pilot and assets are implemented into both so honestly it is what you are feeling at the time.

Question 2: You should get it day one. Elite is straight up doo doo without the season pass. It basically adds planetary landing, more ships, engineering, and a ton of other things including all future updates this year. I would say it is basically mandatory.

Question 3: You can but you either have to get Voice Attack and do the free or paid version, which is a seperate add on you can get on steam for 12 bucks.

Also I would recommend picking up a flight stick eventually if you enjoy the game. The experience is so much better than mouse and keyboard. I started off with this .
After about 100 hours I decided to get this flight stick as it was designed with elite in mind and much better built

If you need any help with any aspect of the game I would recommend watching CMDR Exigeous videos on youtube as I believe he makes fantastic tutorials for new and advanced players.

Enjoy your time in Elite my dude.

u/tookthebaitmate · 1 pointr/Overwatch

What price range are we talking?

If you have some money to spare, I would recommend Razer gear. It's some of the best out there.

The Razer DeathAdder costs 50$ and is probably the world's most popular gaming mouse.

The Razer BlackWidow costs 70$ and has mechanical keys. I love this because you have a noticable "click" when pressing in the keys which makes more very dynamic and precise gameplay.

In addition to this, you need a mousepad. It doesn't have to be a good/expensive brand, but make sure it's LARGE. It recently bought a huge mousepad and it is sooo nice being able to play without being scared to roll over the edge. Lower DPS improves your aim, so you may have to move around your mouse a lot from time to time. This is a gamechanger.

If you don't have 120$+ to spare on equipment, just go on Amazon and search for "gaming mouse / gaming keyboard". Most results will be very affordable and still cheap.

For example, I am currently using this gaming mouse for only 14$. It's perfectly fine in my opinion and quite nice.

u/SWDR117 · 1 pointr/htpc

The Xbox One Media Remote works beautifully for Kodi when paired with Flirc. It's what I'm using right now. Flirc is a little receiver that allows you to use any remote with your PC, so depending on how much money you feel like spending on your setup, you could get by with just a flirc and a remote you already own. Read more about it here (it has a built-in Kodi profile for Kodi-specific buttons). I've set mine up so every button on the remote is used: Xbox button for Home, view (top left) is mapped to tab (so it'll bring up/dismiss the Kodi interface while a video is playing),
menu (top right) is mapped to info, the OneGuide button to toggle subtitles, up/down pill to scroll to top/bottom of list, and the rest as they are labeled. It feels quite natural with the symbols matching up with the Kodi functions.

To control Windows with any controller you like (Xbox 360/Xbox One/any Xinput controller - so maybe even a DualShock depending on how you set it up), use this app called Controller Companion. It's an inexpensive little utility that makes navigating all aspects of the Windows interface a breeze. Has neat text input, so anything that requires a mouse and keyboard can be handled with this. I'm using it with my Xbox One controller + wireless receiver. I tried Xpadder before, but this felt more sophisticated. It optionally launches with Windows and disables itself when you enter a fullscreen game so you can play the game with the controller, taking over again when you're back at the desktop (can be overridden, also has customisable shortcuts). Supports Steam Big Picture and lets you launch it by pressing the Xbox Guide button.

Otherwise, +1 to that Logitech Harmony j4nds4 mentioned if you're looking for a more traditional remote, that's come up in the research I did too.

You mentioned PinMore for custom tiles. I use it, it's great, but it doesn't support regular apps. I haven't tested it yet but it looks like TileCreator can do that. Lastly if you want to get a little adventurous, check out EventGhost. Came across it a long time ago in the context of remotes but I use it for other things now (directory watcher). You may find it useful for your HTPC.

u/Slamdunkin48 · 3 pointsr/Switch

The switch definitely has the possibility for many accessories. I'll link all the stuff I've bought at the end because I would recommend all of them

There is built in storage but not enough. I will recommend any micro SD card that's either 64 or 128 gb depending on how many games you plan on downloading. If you're going mostly mobile eshop games would definitely be more convenient.

As for other items, I love my pro controller but its not a necessity. I also only use it at home so it might not be for you.

You need a case for it, no two ways about it. The good news is that they are pretty cheap. There's cases that just carry the console, that carry the console and some extras, and that carry pretty much everything you could want to carry. Unless you're taking the dock often, I would just suggest a case with some extra storage.

I'd suggest a battery bank. There are a million options out there, and most of it has to do with cost. Just buy a size you like from a trusted brand like anker, ravpower, or aukey.

You also need a screen protector, because the plastic screen is not exactly durable. Anything works, but I would recommend tempered glass.


Micro SD

Pro Controller

Battery Bank

Screen Protector

u/furyofturi · 2 pointsr/MonsterHunter

The cyber gadget one is great. The original Hori X one is pretty cool too, and I have used both (my friend got it when first released, and far less expensive).

This one has a very comfortable rubber finish, and fits big hands well. It’s keeps your wrists pointed out at more of a 45 degree angle than the Hori one does, and helps prevent scratching your system (my poor regular 3DS XL got ABUSED by the circle pad pro). Also, features a pocket to hold two cartridges, or use to hold up the system! Very comfy, seats the system well, is excellent and what I use and love.

Drawbacks- no buttons as part of the grip. There are ridges on the back that take getting used to, but still, I said this is a comfy grip. You basically just put your middle fingers across these lower grips. I would LOVE if it had L/R/ZL/ZR buttons, but simply gives you access to comfy access to the actual buttons on the system. This is definitely where the Hori one does better, by providing big triggers on the grip, but this definitely works.


As someone who just recently bought a grip, specifically for playing 4U, this is the one to go with, and is cost efficient and of great quality

u/Ganrokh · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Hey there, /u/luckerr09!

Thanks for your submission, but unfortunately we've had to remove your post as it doesn't follow Rule 3 -

No limited scope or easily searchable questions.

The following types of question belongs in our Daily Question Thread and are not allowed as standalone posts:

  • Questions covered in the subreddit Wiki
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  • Questions that promote simple or yes/no replies.

    If your intention was to create a discussion post instead, then please ensure that you have written in sufficient detail, included some thought-provoking questions and actively encouraged other users to discuss the topic at hand. Once you have made these changes then please feel free to submit a new post.

    Get this one. It's the most recommended on this subreddit.

    If you have questions or objections about this removal, please reach out to us in modmail.
u/_awoh · 2 pointsr/smashbros


Note: You will need a fairly good computer to run SSBM or SSBB on your computer unless you play on a tiny window size with no audio.

Things needed:

Dolphin Emulator:

This is the emulator you will use to run SSBB and SSBM. Just download the latest version and install it

Controller: Official GC controller and the GC to compter USB adapter

The controller is a bit expensive, but going for a non-official controller is just awful. You can also use an xbox controller, but since you're playing SSB it won't be optimal.

ISOs: I am pretty sure I'm not allowed to link them, but in order to actually play the game you need to search for the "Super Smash Brothers Melee ISO" or "Super Smash Brothers Brawl ISO" and download the ISO for the one(s) you want.

After you have all these components, you can almost start playing:

  • Plug in your GC controller to your computer via your Mayflash adapter

  • Open the Dolphin emulator

  • Click the "GCPad" button on the top grey bar you see. It has a GC controller icon

  • Click the dropdown arrow under "Device" and select your GC controller. If it's not detected, hit the "Refresh" button beside the arrow or start over from step 1 mentioned above. If it still can't be detected, ask on Google. For me, the GC controller is called "SDL/0/USB GamePad" but it might be different for you (I don't actually know if it will be different. Never asked anyone else).

  • After configuring your controller, click the "Browse" button on the same grey bar. It is the 3rd icon and looks like a series of black bars. Search for the folder(s) your ISO(s) and select the folder(s). Now the game(s) should come up on the main menu of the Dolphin Emulator. If they don't, hit refresh or try selecting the correct folder again.

  • Finally, double click the game you want to play and enjoy!
u/Ciel_Rosemont · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

Ahoy! I "converted" to KB and mouse with FFXIV - it was my first game played on kb/m rather than controller. Prior to 2013 I'd been a mostly-console player, had played hundreds of games on controllers, and had never seriously attempted to play anything on kb/m.

The other reply said the most important part: just practice. There is a lot of individual variation from person to person when it comes to how you'd learn to play this way, and (crucially) what areas you'd have trouble with, and how you solve them. To give a personal example of that: while things like moving with WASD and the mouse took some time to adjust to, I was pretty much okay with those fundamentals after a couple months. What was KILLING me was hitting keyboard keys with my left hand to use hotbar skills. Generally, if I moved my hand slightly to hit whatever skill is bound to, say, shift 4, I'd have to look down in order to reposition my hand back on WASD to move properly. If I moved my hand to hit a key, then immediately after that there was an AOE I had to dodge, by the time I got my hand back where it needed to be, I already got hit. This also meant that everything past 5 in the number row was off-limits to skills I would need to use with any regularity, and if I DID need to hit a skill bound to 8 or 9, I needed to stop and look to make sure I was actually hitting the right key and not 7 or 0 (the same way I'd need to then stop and look AGAIN to get back to WASD).

Some people like to change Q, E, R, or other letters near WASD to hotbar assignments, but I just found that discombobulating and also preferred keeping Q/E as my strafe keys (which I use a LOT). This specific problem, of trying to use my left hand for WASD movement but also for hitting numbers to activate skills, kept me from being any better than "barely okay" at the game for a few years, even though I'd felt I'd adjusted adequately to kb/m controls OTHER than that one problem.

So I needed a solution that would allow me to move my fingers away from WASD as little as possible, and that solution was an MMO mouse with 12 thumb buttons. Specifically, this one. I use all 12, so my first hotbar is 1-12, 2nd hotbar is ctrl+1-12 (with ctrl mapped to that little extra button next to the left mouse button), and the 3rd hotbar is shift + 1-12 (shift I can hit with my left pinky without moving the rest of my fingers out of WASD position).

Now a 12-button MMO mouse may or may not work for you - it depends on the person. For me, after an awkward month spent adjusting to it, it began to feel totally natural. I can't go back to playing this game any other way now. But my point in writing all that isn't to say "get an MMO mouse", it's to illustrate that the key is figuring out what works for you, and perhaps more importantly, what doesn't, i.e. what your Achilles heel is when it comes to kb/m controls, and how you can solve it.

Re: standard vs. legacy - I dislike how legacy handles camera and character movement so I keep it on standard. I've long since gotten used to keeping my camera angled in such a way that if I need to dodge laterally, I can just right-click to instantly turn my character and then hit Q or E to strafe. This is also how I get around the "slow walk" issue, which seems to be one of the main points of contention when legacy vs. standard is discussed: hitting S in standard will make you slowly walk backwards (useless for dodging out of an AOE), whereas with legacy you'll actually turn and run away. With the camera angled properly, right-click and strafe allows you to run "backwards" instantly (that is, backwards relative to the enemy, even though your character is actually strafing left or right). But this, again, is an entirely subjective choice that's down to which one works better for you. It's worth fully exploring the particulars of both methods to figure out which one you like better.

u/Chokaay · 2 pointsr/Switch

I think most of your questions depend on how you plan to use your Switch. For me, 99.9% of the time I use it in handheld mode, so accessories important for my usage are different than someone who primarily uses it in docked mode.


u/Rithe · 1 pointr/starcitizen

I bought the Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas X Flight Stick when I first pledged for this game back in 2013, and then realized it was a long way from being flyable

I kind of forgot about it and used M+KB since the game became playable, but recently I remembered I owned it and have been playing with it almost exclusively for the last few days. I'm no expert with one so this is my first impressions

Its surprisingly not too bad for such a cheap stick, and after a lot of practice I'm not -that- much worse than when using a M+KB. I've nearly got my Old Vanduul lap times down to what they were before, and my dog fighting is about as good as normal. And besides the obvious performance differences, it sure is fun to fly with

I do plan to eventually buy a better one (this is what I'm leaning towards when its in stock), but for now its surprisingly good for how cheap it is, and I would actually recommend it to someone who is really on a budget. It does take time to configure though, I recommend this layout and this curve based on my limited testing and what felt natural to me. Without the proper curve its nearly unplayable. I think the only big difference in control layouts is I swapped the afterburner for IFCS buttons, because with racing I needed it available easily

I also use Voice Attack which I have mapped to a whole bunch of commands. I can show you what I have so far if you are interested but its on my home computer

u/Deoxysprime · 1 pointr/buildapc

Right now I have a Redragon Perdition and it works well for me. I think I have pretty big hands but it feels super comfortable and the plastic doesn't feel cheap at all. I'm very fond of this brand after moving on from Razer mice. My Razer mice really only ever lasted me about 6 months but this mouse has lasted me 2 years for about half of the price.

A buddy of mine tried the Redragon Mammoth because he didn't want buttons on the side and he said it's a great mouse for the price and it looks to be about the same size.

I didn't trust this brand at first since their stuff came from China but I've been pleasantly surprised. Good build quality, acceptable software, and tons of features for this price point.

u/thewintersoldieramc · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It is really up to you to make the decision, I, myself, have young nephews, my mom ran a daycare for many years, and I started gaming from an early age. The Switch has parental control features that will help you out. Moderation will be key and tailoring their time towards their behavior is a good way to keep them behaving well. I think they can enjoy it at their age, but sharing and discipline will be key.

I'll go with accessories first, screen protector is no 1 buy for young kids and expensive products.

A travel case and possible grips would also do you well. Other things like the wheel are more game dependent and preference dependent.

As for games, Mario Kart and Mario Odyssey are great choices right out of the gate. Cars 3 driven to win is also a competent racing game. Lego games are also good choices Here is a link to commonsensemedia, take it with a grain of salt and look more at the content than the suggested ages.

Hope some of this helps!

Edit: grammar and new link

u/ArmyDude956 · 4 pointsr/smashbros

There are actually PC ports of both MGS1 and MGS2, but they are pretty dang old.



However, here's how I recommend doing it.

Get The Twin Snakes for Gamecube. It's a remake of the first one with totally redone cutscenes, redone voice acting, and different music. The music is nowhere near the level of the first one, it just doesn't sound right. But other than the music, I think it's the best version.

Then get the HD collection, if you have a 360 or PS3. This includes HD remakes of MGS2, MGS3, and MGS Peace Walker. Peace Walker was a PSP exclusive before and it's 100x better on console.

I also recommend getting MGS3 on 3DS. It's the best version in my opinion. Use the Circle Pad Pro, though.

You can get MGS4 on PS3 or on PS4 with Sony's PSNow thing, but that's only a rental.

MGS5 Ground Zeroes and Phantom Pain are both coming out on PC.

Or you can just get the Legacy collection which has literally every Metal Gear game to 2012, and it includes the HD editions. It doesn't have The Twin Snakes though.

u/azrael6947 · 5 pointsr/gaming

Okay, I'll keep this brief.

You started out good. MGS 3 is the earliest game in the series story wise. On console Ground Zeroes is it's sequel, there is a few handheld titles in between MGS 3 and Ground Zeroes.

In short the story is and SPOILERS-SOMEWHAT in short, about two key groups who endevour to fulfil The Boss' final wish, to have a untied world. The Patriots seek to create this world through control, their enemies seek to create it through freedom.

The Patriots are an example of a shadow government, as they run the USA and control pretty much everything, add WMDs, nanomachines, AI and supersolders as plot points to the entire story, and it makes for one very enjoyable ride.

In their attempts to create the perfect world they embark on a complex cloning program to create the perfect soldier to fullfiil this goal. This is where Solid Snake comes from. Very few characters work directly for The Patriots, many are unknowing agents and the rest are usually unwilling, and are held hostage by some means.

The Metal Gear are a series of bipedial tanks, caipable of launching WMDs from any terrain or fullfilling some over goal such as recon or targeted strikes. In most games the Metal Gear serves as the final boss or close to being the final boss.

In buying Ground Zeroes now you wont miss a hell of a lot, Ocelot appears in it along with Snake. Most of the other characters are from the two handheld games in between MGS3 and MGS5:GZ, those two games are Peace Walker and Portable Ops. You can get every MGS game to date (aside from Portable Ops) in the Legacy Collection:

u/Pyromaniac34 · 2 pointsr/gaming

So, my suggestion to you, get 2 Stinky Boards that you control with your feet. That's 8 buttons which should mostly make up for the loss of major left hand use.

Then get a mouse with lots of buttons like the Logitech G502, Utech Venus, or the Razer Naga line.

It will definitely take some getting used to, but you probably wouldn't need to give up any of the games you love.

The last recommendation I have to further expand your ability to control games with minimal left hand usage is Voice Attack Which lets you program in (assuming someone hasn't built a profile already) sequences of key presses and other things that respond to your voice. When properly set up, it works amazingly for games like Elite: Dangerous when I'm in VR and can't really see the keyboard to use those controls.

Best of luck to you, and hopefully you regain full functionality soon.

u/70KnotsCheck · 3 pointsr/hoggit

Hey man, great work for a Xbox controller! Next step is a joystick. If you're looking for some cheap ones that'll do everything you need to, the [Logitech Extreme 3D Pro] ( is the place to look, it's around $30 to $40 from most retailers, but the price also equates to lower quality, and not a bad experience but one that could be improved upon significantly. The next step up would be a [VKB Gladiator] ( A bit of a jump in price (nearly double, can be had for around $100USD +/-$25), but most reviews say it's stellar and a couple people around this subreddit love it. The $200~ price range after that is a bit iffy, as you get sub-par quality most of the time, but the [Thrustmaster T.1600M HOTAS] ( has kind of alleviated that issue. Most reviews make it out to be excellent for the price. If you've got the change, I think it'd be a great place to start. Other than that there's not much in the $300-$200 price range. In the $500-$400 price range however, there's the one and only [Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS] (, which is extremely expensive but modeled after a real A-10C and is of stellar quality. You're going to need rudder pedals if you go that route though, so I'd advise against it as it's got quite a premium to pay.

Glad you're enjoying the hobby, and hopefully you can expand to a stick soon and get even better. No pressure to get one if you're fine with the controller, but it can totally enhance your experience.

u/imest58 · 0 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

#1 Suggestion, buy your girlfriend her own switch. This will give you 2 more Joycons for 4 player action in Mario Party. Too many great games to share one console.

#2 Buy a pro controller, get one that is a special edition (Xenoblade Chronicles 2, Smash Bros., etc.) as the original has D Pad issues.

#3 Buy Physical copies of games when available, or if you have to buy digital wait for a sale.

#4 Register with and start earning gold coins. These gold coins can be used to get discount on digital games.

#5 Xenoblade Chronicles 2 <- A must!

#6 DeadCells if you are a rouge/metrovania lover.

#7 Purchase a carrying case protection

#8 Legend of Zelda Breath of the Wild is a great game, but you need the Amiibos to get exclusive gear. Get these NFC to get the full experience and save you cash!

There is always more info that can be helpful, but the best advise is to enjoy the system the way you want and not what anyone else says. GLHF!


P.S. Name 4 renaissance painters.


Don't know any?


Name the Teenage Mutant Turtles. See you did know :p

u/IwataFan · 3 pointsr/nintendo

With screen protectors you really want to go with tempered glass. Starter kits are a nice deal, but you do get what you pay for when it comes to screen protectors; such is life.

For a screen protector, I along with the rest of Reddit it seems have settled upon this screen protector as being the absolute best. I even had Best Buy Geek Squad install it to virtually guarantee proper installation, and it looks absolutely fantastic. I had the chance to play for a few weeks without it and personally think it actually makes the screen look better.

For a case I would go the RDS Industries route and get either this or even this larger case that can fit all the related Switch accessories.

u/mundozeo · 12 pointsr/Switch

Be mindful of what accessories you personally need. People needs are different. The only global accessories that seem to be useful to everyone:

  1. A screen protector. This applies to pretty much any tablet accessory where the screen is not covered by design (like the 3DS clam shell). This is the one I got and it works well ($9.00):

  2. A carrying case. Being portable, odds are you will want to take it out at some point. Seeing it's an expensive piece of hardware, it makes sense to have a case to put everything in it for protection. You can buy the neat ones with colors and crazy designs and space, but for me, this basic one works perfectly fine ($13.00):

  3. An extra charger. Unless you already have a Type C charger, you will likely want to get one. Usually goes for $15.00.

  4. If, and ONLY if you plan to get your games digitally, you WILL want an additional memory card. The one I paste below has enough space for at least 20 games given the average game space that we've seen so far (BoTW takes 14 GB, but Mario Odyssey takes 5.5 Gb, so in average, it evens out.). Note this is only the games you can have installed at a time, you can always remove one or more if you want to download another one, and games you purchase digitally will always be available for re download as long as the eshop exists.

    Any other accessory should REALLY be considered on a need-to basis. Not everyone needs a pro controller (depending on the games you play, I've been fine without it with only BoTW, Mario Kart, Fate/Extella and Mario+Rabbids.), and not everyone needs an extra, improved stand/dock.

    Finally, do some research on what games you will actually want to play. What I've seen is that games on the switch are NOT cheap, and unless you have extra disposable income, buying a game you don't really play can lower your overall appreciation of the system. Not only that, but because releases are sparse at the moment, it's easier to jump into the hype in order to keep using your shiny new hardware. Though that really applies to any console.
u/tomster2300 · 10 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I am a paraplegic and get the exact same pain with handhelds. Grips have been a lifesaver! I tried skull & co.'s kickstarter grip and a cheap rubber one off Amazon before sticking with Satisfye's Switch grip. I have big hands and it was the only one large enough to comfortably play with. Edit: They JUST launched all new products but I have their OG Switch grip.

I have other branded grips for my N3DS XL and Vita, but forget what they are (I think they're Japanese brands I found on Amazon), and they're comfortable and work great.

I suggest buying a handful off Amazon to try out and then keep the one that works. They're all made slightly differently so you wont really know until you have them in your "grip" :-) .

Good luck!

Edit: I found the exact grips in my Amazon purchase history (all from Amazon and I live in the states).


N3DS XL (I alternate between the two)

Switch (This still looks like my OG one)

u/Kered13 · 4 pointsr/starcraft

It's originally a Gamecube game obviously, and can be played on Wii as well, but these days most people play on PC netplay. The netplay ladder for both Melee and PM. It has guides to get everything set up, but here is the guide you will want for Melee. You will need to find an NTSC v1.02 Melee ISO, I'm sure you can figure out how to do that ;)

To start off with you can use any PC controller or even a keyboard (it sounds crazy but some people have done it successfully). If you get more serious or you want to play in offline tournaments you will need a Gamecube controller and adapter. Adapters are pretty cheap, just make sure it's a WiiU compatible adapter like this one, Dolphin can detect it in WiiU mode and this will work best. New GC controllers are unfortunately much more expensive, and probably will be until the next Smash game comes out and they make a new batch. This is probably the biggest barrier to entry. You can find lightly used ones for more reasonable prices. It is also possible to repair more damaged controllers (there are guides for this and people who make a business out of it). Third party controllers are generally pretty trash, I would avoid those.

As for actually playing, this guide is the classic for advanced techniques, though it's a lot to take in at once. There are a ton of other guides on Youtube as well if you feel like you need a different explanation or just want something more modern.

u/violetviceroy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wouldnt worry about it. iKBC makes high-quality boards. "Real" cherry switches are no better than many of their competitiors, such as kailh switches and gateron switches, and generally tend to feel worse. If you do a search of this forum (which I strongly recommend, so that you learn more about mech boards in general), you'll find that most serious enthusiasts do not like the feel of cherry switches unless they have modified them in some way - such as taking them apart to apply lube, or swapping them into the housing of one of their competitors. "Real Cherry" is a marketing gimmick, and if this is your only concern, you can save money by getting a "knock-off" board for much less.

As for stabilizers: this is a case of you get what you pay for. Off-the-shelf boards with great stabilizers include: vortex vibe (60% + numpad), and the vortex race (75%, no numpad), but these tend to retail for around $130 USD. Other more expensive brands, such as leopold, have great stabilizers too. Rattly stabs are easy to fix, in any case.

Other brands you might look into: Coolermaster makes solid entry-level full-sized boards, and they have excellent stabilizers, and does the brand Ducky. Rosewill is another option:

Another option still is RedDragon:

Cooler Master: .

And yes, fees tend to be higher in Canada.

If you are really, truly, concerned, I would spend the time to do some keyword searches in this forum. I dont mean this offensively, but a lot of your concerns are fairly noobish and reading up on what other people say will probably assuage them, and make you feel better about spending money on whatever board you eventually do get (I speak from experience on this). Your keyboard needs are fairly straightforward, so you should be able to get a solid board that meets them without spending more than you want to.

u/OfficialShip2000 · 3 pointsr/flightsim
  1. This is the link to the XP10 section, but nearly all of them should work fine in XP11

  2. Someone else can answer that

  3. The Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS seems to be what everyone is recommending for an entry level HOTAS

  4. For the base game, that's it really. Fly around. Generally people fly between two airports like in real life. Things get more interesting if you add stuff like FSEconomy or multiplayer like VATSIM, IVAO, or PilotEdge

  5. For X-Plane, I would only really buy plane addons. Nearly all the scenery you will ever need is free on places like the fourm. The only other thing I would recommend is looking at one of the weather addons.

  6. There are many, can't name them off the top of my head

  7. MisterX is the end all be all of freeware scenery

    The planes I would recommend are the FlightFactor 767, FlightFactor 757, IXEG 737, Rotate MD80, AirfoilLabs 172SP, Any of the Dreamfoil helicopters, and whichever Carenando planes have the Reality Expansion Packs.
u/RammyZs · 2 pointsr/nintendo

You should really consider getting some GameCube controllers and games for some good local multiplayer. Most of them are a lot more competitive than the more family-oriented Wii games.

Mario Kart: Double Dash!! offers better co-op and competitive play than Mario Kart Wii.

Super Mario Strikers is crazy fun if you are willing to spend some extra time to get a good grasp on its mechanics. (I wouldn't recommend Mario Strikers Charged)

The N64 Mario Party games (Which are available at the Wii Shop Channel) are famous for being the best by many, though I have never played them myself. GameCube controllers can be used to play the game.

Good quality GameCube controllers might set you back quite a few bucks since their supply is declining. The best I could find online is here

u/Luminaria19 · 2 pointsr/AskWomen

Amazon, Newegg, and /r/buildapcsales are your best friends for sales.

For mice, if he's the type that loves a lot of buttons on his mouse, I highly recommend this piece of beauty. I've had it for a couple years now and while it's off-brand (making it $30ish cheaper than comparable mice), it's held up great. It frequently goes on sale for $30.

If he's the type to set up his laptop on a desk when at home and he wants a dedicated keyboard for it, I'd recommend anything mechanical. I have this one and the price it is right now ($90) is fantastic (if not in your budget, that's fine too - there are other mechs for cheaper, usually without the custom lighting)

u/elichondo · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Hello, I literally just got my Switch yesterday! I'm assuming your son is ~10 years old. Hopefully this can help;

  1. "Updates" only took 1 minute for me. I'm unsure if the console was already up-to-date to a certain point, but updating was practically instant. Same with my Super Mario Odyssey update, took an extra 1 minute. So 2 minutes total doing updates and then I was playing a game.
  2. I highly recommend one. I got the tempered glass amFilm one from Amazon. Really nice screen protector and you get two for ~$10, this one specifically:
  3. I personally recommend a rubber TPU case for the switch/joycons, this is the one I bought:

    I recommend the rubber case because it'll protect the device itself from small drops and scuffs that can occur if the user of the device isn't careful. I'm in my early 20's and I'm extremely careful with my phones(haven't dropped any phones for about 3-4 years now).

    I bought this rubber case for my Switch just in case someone else is using it and drops it. The console and joycons all have their own rubber piece, but the joycons can still snap onto the Switch, however the Switch cannot dock into the TV Dock enclosure with the rubber case on. So if your son wants to play on the TV constantly then this case isn't worth the hassle in my opinion.

u/wrenagade419 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

no not refurbished, it's brand new for that much.

here is amazon link

for 35 bucks, i figured it's be cheap and break pretty quick or have issues. nope. there's other redragon mouse designs too, gotta assume they are just as good. I want to say they are in line with razer nagas but that may be a bold statement, my brother has a razer, i honestly think the redragon feels a bit.. sturdier, but that's just feel, says nothing about real quality, which, i think they are pretty much even. The software that comes with it is great, set your dpi settings, theres i think 4-5 settings, and tqo buttons behind mouse wheel to switch between them (up and down) and you can customize each one, so like 800 for one, 1200 for another, whatever you want up to 16400 dpi. mousewheel changes color to indicate what setting you're on. The logo and the numbers light up which you can customize that color and if it pulses and how fast. I constantly recommend this mouse to people looking for a cheap, quality alternative. and i think it has 5 star rating on amazon with 2512 reviews. Keep your options open but i can't say enough good things about the price and quality of this mouse. I play overwatch, ffxiv. Love this thing. 34 for black, 37 for the white one, which i wanted but my case is black and i kept that theme.

u/CaspianX2 · 32 pointsr/patientgamers

The PS3 has some spectacular deals in their multi-game collections. Observe:

Metal Gear Solid: The Legacy Collection - Includes Metal Gear, Metal Gear 2, Metal Gear Solid 2: HD Edition, Metal Gear Solid 3: HD Edition (which includes most of the upgraded features from Subsistence), Metal Gear Solid 4 Trophy Edition, Metal Gear Solid: Peace Walker HD Edition, voucher codes for Metal Gear Solid 1 and Metal Gear Solid: VR Missions, 2 Exclusive Ashley Wood Bande Desinee Graphic Novels, and a 100 PG Artbook. Currently listed at $39.99 on Amazon.

God of War Saga Collection - Includes God of War (HD Remaster), God of War II (HD Remaster), God of War III, and God of War: Chains of Olympus (HD Remaster) and God of War: Ghost of Sparta (HD Remaster). Currently listed at $29.94 on Amazon.

Killzone Trilogy Collection - Includes Killzone (HD Remaster), Killzone 2 +all multiplayer maps, and Killzone 3 + all multiplayer maps. Currently listed at $32.25 on Amazon.

Resistance Collection - Includes Resistance: Fall of Man, Resistance 2 + Bonus Content, and Resistance 3 + Bonus Content. Currently listed at $29.73 on Amazon.

Assassin's Creed Ezio Trilogy - Includes Assassin's Creed II, Assassin's Creed Brotherhood, and Assassin's Creed Revelations. Currently listed at $25.80 on Amazon.

Jak and Daxter Collection - Includes Jak & Daxter 1, 2, and 3, all remastered in HD. Currently listed at $19.77 on Amazon.

Ico and Shadow of the Colossus Collection - Includes Ico and Shadow of the Colossus, both remastered in HD. Currently listed at $18.82 on Amazon.

The Sly Collection - Includes the first three Sly Cooper games remastered in HD, plus 3D support for Sly Cooper 3 and new Move-compatible minigames. Currently listed at $20.40 on Amazon.

InFamous Collection - Includes InFamous 1 and 2, inFamous: Festival of Blood, and additional downloadable content. Currently listed at $27.47 on Amazon.

Tomb Raider Trilogy - Includes Tomb Raider: Legend (HD Remaster), Tomb Raider: Anniversary (HD Remaster), and Tomb Raider: Underworld, as well as some avatar stuff and making-of content. Currently listed at $19.48 on Amazon.

Prince of Persia Trilogy - Prince of Persia: The Sands of Time (HD Remaster), Prince of Persia: Warrior Within (HD Remaster) and Prince of Persia: The Two Thrones (HD Remaster), with 3D support and better framerates. Currently listed at $15.00 on Amazon.

Splinter Cell Trilogy - Includes Splinter Cell (HD Remaster), Splinter Cell: Pandora Tomorrow (HD Remaster) and Splinter Cell: Chaos Theory (HD Remaster), with support for 3D, better framerates, and enhanced online gameplay. Currently listed at $19.95 on Amazon.

Uncharted Greatest Hits Dual Pack - Includes Uncharted and Uncharted 2: GotY Edition. Currently listed at $19.96 on Amazon.

Kingdom Hearts HD 1.5 Remix - Includes Kingdom Hearts Final Mix (HD Remaster), Kingdom Hearts Re: Chain of Memories (HD Remaster), and HD cinematics from Kingdom Hearts 358/2 Days, as well as an artbook for those who pre-order. Currently listed at $34.99 on Amazon.

Kingdom Hearts HD 2.5 Remix (To be released sometime in 2014) - Includes Kingdom Hearts II Final Mix (HD Remaster), Kingdom Hearts Birth By Sleep Final Mix (HD Remaster), and HD cinematics from Kingdom Hearts Re:Coded. Currently listed at $59.99 on Amazon.

Ratchet and Clank Collection - Includes Ratchet & Clank, Ratchet & Clank: Going Commando, and Ratchet & Clank: Up Your Arsenal, all remastered in HD and with 3D support. Currently listed at $19.99 on Amazon.

Journey Collector's Edition - Includes Journey, Flower, and flOw. Currently listed at $19.99 on Amazon.

Devil May Cry HD Collection - Includes Devil May Cry (HD Remaster), Devil May Cry 2 (HD Remaster), and Devil May Cry 3: Dante's Awakening Special Edition (HD Remaster). Currently listed at $14.59 (for the PS3 version) on Amazon.

Zone of the Enders HD Collection - Includes Zone of the Enders (HD Remaster) and Zone of the Enders: The Second Runner (HD Remaster), both with new opening animations. Currently listed at $12.98 (for the PS3 version) on Amazon.

Mass Effect Trilogy - Includes all three Mass Effect Games (but none of the DLC). Currently listed at $42.99 (For the PS3 version).

There's also the Silent Hill HD Collection, but from everything I hear it is a lazy and sloppy port of the games.

Whew! I swear I am not a shill for Amazon. I just appreciate a good deal when I see it.

u/jettivonaviska · 3 pointsr/Diablo

I used this mouse for 3 years before I replaced it (60+ hours a week use on average). It's a lesser known brand, but I've enjoyed the mouse a lot, and it's a bit cheaper than the big names (Logitech, Corsair, Razer, and the like). I know you said it takes awhile to save up money for splurges on things like this, but it might be easier to save for since it's a little cheaper. I'm glad you all enjoy your time playing the game!

u/SkeletonInProgresss · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I love Razer. I love how much they are doing for the gaming scene and eSports scene.

That being said, I have gone through two Blackwidow keyboards and three Naga mice. I wouldn't say that I'm hard on my accessories, but they do see a fair amount of use. My mice lasted around a year to a year and a half on average. When they worked, they were excellent, but too quickly did I start to have problems with the laser.

Since then I bought this random Reddragon mouse that was half the price on amazon and I have put it through about three years of work and it's still holding up great.

Razer looks great, works great for a while, but I compare it now to the beats by Dre, strong marketing and appearance, but low quality for the price.

u/StealthyNeo · 1 pointr/hoggit

Here are my recommendations.



Keeping your current computer, Oculus Rift is a good option. Light weight, and fits DCS right.

There are a few upcoming VR headsets, but you may have to upgrade your hardware. You can expect an upgrade in another year or later. So, I recommend living with the Rift for an year or 2.



Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog is the beast I always recommend. You might need a rudder pedal.

Since you love the су-27, VPC Mongoose T-50 might be your choice. Again, you need a throttle from Warthog and a rudder pedal.

You also have Logitech G X56 and X52 Pro. You don't need a rudder pedal in this case, so you can save a lot. I've personally used them both and moved to the Warthog HOTAS.

Lastly, you have Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS, good reviews, best entry level HOTAS.


Rudders pedals

MFG Crosswind, Slaw Device, Saitek, CH.

u/snRNA2123 · 5 pointsr/buildapcforme
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $134.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $73.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $174.87 @ OutletPC
Storage | ADATA - Ultimate SU800 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $52.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $64.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Zotac - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB AMP! Edition Video Card | $259.99 @ Newegg
Case | Deepcool - TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $93.29 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $925.09
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $895.09
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-09 21:44 EST-0500 |

Here's a build I put together for you. This thing will destroy any game at ultra settings 1080p @ 60 FPS! You won't have to overclock if you don't want to, however it is pretty easy to do with Ryzen! You're going to want to set your RAM to run at the highest speed it possibly can without crashing though to get the best performance!

I went with raw performance over RGB and LEDs.

You have a TON of storage with this build. You'll have a 128 GB SSD for Windows which will make it boot and run incredibly fast. You can also store commonly used programs on here and a game or two that has long loading times. For all your other games and media, you have a 2 TB HDD!

Regarding your question about running the second screen, it should have negligible performance impact unless you plan on doing something intensive on it like rendering a video, playing another game, or something along those lines (aka browsing the internet on a separate screen won't impact you at all).

You can use a TV with this, however, TVs have different display properties when compared to a typical computer monitor. I'm not super knowledgeable on this topic, but I do know that TVs have lower refresh rates (around 25 Hz) that use different technology to blend frames together to make it appear like smooth transitions from frame to frame (if I'm wrong hopefully someone can correct me, although I'm pretty sure that's how it works). Also, TVs have much higher input lag. So playing competitive games on a TV will put you at a significant disadvantage. Long story short, you can totally game on your TV, it won't be AS enjoyable as on a normal monitor though.

With regards to you question about the controller, you can buy a USB adapter that you can use to connect your controller to. I personally have this one: and it works wonderfully! You can connect multiple controllers to it as well.

If you have any questions please let me know and I'll do my best to answer!
u/Blasterion · 1 pointr/hoggit

> Don't by a plane with complicated systems and tricky/unique flight characteristics if you can't fly an F-15 proficiently. The FC3 planes have simplified systems but most have the same level of flight model. The F-15C and Su-27/33 are 3 of the best air to air planes in the game, so you're not at a disadvantage in that regard, if they were full fidelity they'd probably be even better (more radar modes to work with is one that comes to mind), master these then get the mirage

Thanks I think I'll stick with the FC3 planes mainly the F-15C for now, I heard that Mirage is not ransferable between Steam and Standalone so that might be a problem.

Also Can Steam players play with Standalone players?

> Get a proper hotas before going past the FC3 aircraft

So HOTAS X would be insufficient? I did look at the T16kM do I need the throttle combo? or just the stick? since I see there is what looks like a small throttle slide right there

and what do you think about the VKS Gladiator MkII stick? I've been eyeing it for a while (because I like how it looks, but expensive, I'm probably more likely to get T16K M. )

One last thing, Su-27, the engine won't start, I know the Start up sequence is pretty similar for all FC3 planes, I did the same things I do on the F-15C but the Throttle doesn't respond, there is no engine noise the plane just won' start.

MiG29 did respond to the same start up sequence, (battery>cockpit>engine>Nav lights>flaps)

u/WHATDAYISITMIKE · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Definitely get a case for your switch. I got this one and really like the designs plus it comes with game cases for you switch.

It only holds the switch, 8 games, and then a small pouch to put the joy con straps in. I literally bought this so I could not worry about it falling off of a table or me dropping it or anything like that. Its great for just carrying it around from room to room. Definitely protect your investment.

I would also get a tempered glass screen protector. The switch can scratch if you are not careful removing it from the dock. The glass I bought literally had one of the best screen protector application directions/processes I have ever had to use.

Welcome to the switch club my friend

Case link:

Tempered glass link:

u/bigylittle · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
  • Screen Protector. I suggest a tempered glass screen protector
  • SD Card. Dpending on how committed you are to digital vs. physical, a 64gb or 128gb should hold you over. Wait for them to go on sale, they go on sale pretty often.
  • Carrying case. I recommend the ButterFox carrying cases, they come in different sizes so pick one that suits you.
  • A stand. By stand I mean something that will hold your Switch and provide access to the USB port for charging. Some recommend the Hori play stand, for me that's a bit too bulky and went with one meant for cellphones, works wonders.
  • Portable battery pack, look for ones with at least 2.1A output to sustain gameplay when charging.
  • Pro controller, it's essential on most games, literally night and day from the joy cons. I suggest getting the Xenoblade version because it has an updated D-Pad that the original has.
  • Another dock, theres a lot of controversy here. There are 3rd party options out there they have been noted as dangerous to your Switch and may brick it and render it useless. From my experience, I've had great success with the Nyko dock and the Best Buy Insignia dock, use these at your own risk. You could play it safe and buy another official Nintendo dock. it's not as cheap however.

    Links for all the items I got for your reference:
    Screen Protector
    Memory Card
    Battery Pack
    Pro Controller
    Nyko Dock

u/Zero_Risk · 2 pointsr/emulation

I've tried some of the usb controllers and wasn't satisfied. They're often too light-weight or the buttons aren't as responsive, or some little nagging thing. Personal recommendation would be to go for the real deal and get an N64 to usb Controller Adapter or two. They're surprisingly easy to use (nearly plug-and-play, but you need to configure the emulator settings so it knows which is controller 1, controller 2, etc.).

That being said, it sounds like you might be happier getting the real deal hardware. Nothing will feel spot on compared to the original hardware. Plus, if it sounds fun for your bachelor party, who's to say it can't be something fun to do any other time you're all together in the future, right?

Congrats on getting hitched; hope it goes well for you.

u/ElementaryHufflepuff · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If you plan on playing it in table top mode, get a good stand, as the built in one leaves much to be desired. I have the Hori one linked below, which has been good, but I plan on upgrading to an aluminum one.

Also, if you plan on playing docked, you need a pro controller. I have found that the range of movement on the joycon analog sticks leaves much to be desired.

The system is an Indie power house and I love it. If you are in to Rougelites like Gungeon, there is always Binding of Isaac and Darkest Dungeon. Stardew Valley is amazing and is one of my personal favorites. People will recommend Golf Story, but i personally couldn't get into it. If you are into Minecraft, I would recommend Steamworld Dig 2, its a 2D Mining/Metroidvania that surpassed every expectation I had. Runner 3 is going through the certification process, but that's another indie I can't wait for.

u/TheRealLasagna · 1 pointr/gangbeasts

I've used 4 Gamecube controllers with the Mayflash Gamecube adapter that has the PC/Wii U switch along with 4 Wii U Pro controllers with the Mayflash PC adapter and gotten 8-player to successfully work. I haven't needed to use any programs like x360ce so it seems as though it'll at least accept PC controllers (as opposed to Xbox controllers which likely work too). You just have to get used to how the buttons are placed, which is generally well-done on the Gamecube controller.

So, to more specifically answer your question, you can definitely use a basic Gamecube to USB adapter if it's the Mayflash one. The Nintendo one likely works with a bit more effort, here is an article that hopefully will help. Disclaimer: I haven't tested this method since I have the Mayflash adapter; also the article is from 2014, however the website seems trustworthy on the subject.

Also, I haven't tried PS4, Xbox 360, or Xbox 1 controllers, however I have had success mixing two different types of controllers (mentioned above) with success, so I would imagine it'd still work (as long as the PC recognizes the controllers).

Good luck!

u/forestminish · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It’s really honestly recommended to use one. If your Switch gets scratched or scuffed over the years, you’ll be SO glad it’s on a protector and not the actual screen.

I promise the tempered glass ones are super easy to put on and they are made to not bubble easily. They are only about $8 and it’s a very worthwhile investment. It comes off pretty easily so even if you did mess up, you can take it off without ruining your screen.

You could probably even buy one at Best Buy or another tech store and ask someone there to help you put it on if you didn’t want to do it yourself.

u/SlashGames · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I really recommend Super Mario Odyssey and The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild. Both games are some of the greatest in their respective series, and are outstanding games overall. I also highly recommend a tempered glass screen protector, like this one. If you're interested in multiplayer games, Mario Kart and Smash Bros are the best you'll get.

u/Taco-Pterodactyl · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Yes, the game supports wing play, with the maximum wing housing 4 commanders. This is best used while partaking in combat, however wing missions allow you to trade as well. Exploration isn't the best wing activity, however you could journey alongside one another in the same instance.

Controllers are great, however I fully recommend a HOTAS after you've learned the game. The only thing better for E:D than a HOTAS is VR, once you have both the game becomes a truly remarkable experience. I recommend this guy here:

u/Masark · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Depends on your definition of "Break the bank". At the entry level, you're looking at spending about $50 USD.

  • The Thrustmaster T-flight HOTAS X - This is entry level HOTAS that goes for $40-50 USD. 12 buttons, an 8-way hat, twist stick, and rudder rocker. This tends to have the "a little short of controls" problem, as Elite has lots of stuff to bind, so you'll likely want to either use the keyboard for more buttons or set up a series of modifiers like this to fit everything on it. The HOTAS One and HOTAS 4 (for the Xbox and PS4, respectively, though both are also PC compatible) are slightly upgraded versions of this stick, with the same exterior, but improved internals tightening the deadzone and making them a bit more precise. They're usually more expensive than the X, but you might catch them on sale for cheaper occasionally. Note that this unit only uses 1 USB port, as the throttle and stick are connected to each other via a cable (about 20" long). This is something to keep in mind if you plan on mounting them to chair arms or something. I personally used this unit previously. It's a perfectly good setup, though I personally found the lack of buttons to be annoying after awhile. Note that the throttle has a detent at 50%, making it nicely suited to full range operation, with the detent separating forward and reverse.
  • The Thrustmaster Stick X. This unit is basically the above, but without the throttle and the buttons transferred to the stick base along with a throttle slider. Rings in at a little cheaper at about $30 USD.
  • The Thrustmaster T16000M. This is a refreshed version of the classic T16000M, with minor exterior changes (reshaped hat, reshaped trigger, reshaped throttle, and tactile indicators on the base buttons). It's notable for being one of the rare ambidextrous sticks (you just swap out a couple parts to switch it) Unlike the X (which uses potentiometers), this unit uses contactless hall effect sensors, giving it very smooth motion with excellent precision. 16 buttons (12 of which are on the base), an 8-way hat, twist stick and throttle slider. More buttons available than the X. The stick by itself rings in at about the same price as the HOTAS X at $50 USD.

    Moving up, there's the Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS. This is the above T16000M stick along with Thrustmaster's new TWCS throttle and rings in at $130 USD. Totaling them up, you get 19 buttons, two 8-way hats, two 4-way hats, a two-way switch (very handy for supercruise/hyperjump), an analog stick, throttle slider, rudder rocker, and an analog dial, which is plenty of room for all the stuff you need (note that the throttle has no detent, so you'll probably want to run it forward only with a button assigned to reverse. Though if you're handy, people have come up with modifications to add a detent). This is what I personally use and I quite like it. Note that all the components of this set are available separately and can function independently (each needs its own USB port, so you might want to buy a hub with these). So you could buy the stick today and the throttle next month. Or buy the throttle and some other stick or buy two sticks, or whatever mix and match scheme you like. There's also a matching set of pedals (the TFRP rudder) available if that's your jam.
u/Pseudogenesis · 6 pointsr/SSBPM

I personally really enjoy messing with Wii homebrew stuff, and since it's in the end-of-life stage it's pretty much polished to a mirror sheen at this point. Very hard to screw up.

I believe I followed the Complete Softmod Guide last time I did it, which is extensive. But I just discovered that some of the amazing folks behind also did a Wii version over at I've never used it, but is fantastic and this looks solid as well. If you end up going with the Wii route, I recommend using one of these two guides. (Anyone with more knowledge, feel free to call me out if I'm spreading bad advice right now)

As for adapters, this Mayflash 4 port one is the gold standard and less than $20. I personally don't use GCCs for anything other than Dolphin on my PC but it's still a fantastic purchase.

Good luck, whatever you choice you go with! Long live PM

u/gmcemu · 4 pointsr/funny

Here's the one I bought off amazon. It works great but it's the og japanese version that has a shorter cord than the US version. So you may want to get a usb extension cable if your planning on playing very far from from your pc. I use a mayflash adapter to connect it to my pc and it's automatically recognized by most platformer type games I play like super meat boy, super house of dead ninjas, and electronic super joy.

u/dr_lorax · 5 pointsr/hoggit

Lol, that’s the million dollar question. I’m not sure what your budget is but I seem to think I’ve heard good things about the Thrustmaster T1600 stick and throttle T1600 Amazon. I hope that link works but it looks like the stick and throttle are $129 for the pair and that seems like a good deal to me but I got my setup a few years ago so not sure about the pricing and deals that they have now. My setup is also a Thrustmaster but it’s the Warthog Hotas which is a bit higher on the price scale but I’ve been happy with the brand. I hope this helps a bit.

u/roytoy1678 · 0 pointsr/nintendo

Things that you will require:

Screen protector. The switch has a plastic screen. It will scratch incredibly easily. Don't buy the el cheapo film style protectors. Get a glass screen protector. You can get a two pack of them on amazon for under 10 bucks. Vastly superior to film screen protectors.

Carrying case. IMO, there are two non negotiable things a switch case needs. First, it needs good rigidity. With the DS line, you could get away with a soft case. The clamshell design is fairly impervious to damage in any kind of case. Not so with the switch. You want something that is hard, so it will resist squishing in a backpack, or whatever. It needs to hold the switch in place inside the case rattling around will damage the device over time.

The second thing it absolutely needs is molded cutouts behind where the triggers are. A case that's flat under the switch will press on the triggers when it's in there, and wear it out. You will get many suggestions. Most of them are badly designed or way overpriced. This is the best case for the money. It's super solid, holds 8 games, secures the unit, and has the cutouts.

You'll also want a micro SD. If you're gonna buy physical games, a 32 or 64 should be fine. If you're buying digital, get the biggest card you can afford.

Things you probably want

Buy a good usb-c cable. I recommend Anker brand. Cheap cords are a crapshoot. Not all are standard compliant, and can damage your device

Thumbstick caps. The stick caps as is are frankly shit. I bought a pack of rubber caps for like 4 bucks 100% improvement.

If you're planning to play a lot of Mariokart, get the plastic wheels. They're cheap, and they're cool.

If you want an external controller, I'd advise not buying the official pro controller. is currently making a switch compatible controller with gyro, rumble, and usb-c charging. It will be out before the holidays. You can get one of their current controllers for like 40 bucks. It lacks rumble or gyro, but it's a great alternative for games that don't need those. A little small though. The upcoming SNES 30 Pro model looks awesome. I'd advise you to wait for it to drop and check out reviews. The nintendo pro controller is badly designed and super overpriced.

And a plastic folding tablet stand is very useful for tabletop mode. I use one all the time.

u/Rufio6 · 2 pointsr/3DS

I use the Hori monster hunter one, but it is massive and pricey. Comfortable though, and sweats better than my other plastic grips.

I'm gonna take a chance on this $8 one from eBay, looks to be one of the slimmer profiles:

Otherwise, the Cyber Gadget Grip for $25 is supposed to be great.

I've used cheap trigger grips on my Old XL that worked amazing. Just got my New 3ds XL and its been tougher to find a good set.

u/ktlin27 · 2 pointsr/swtor

I would highly suggest to do NOTHING with those coins, at least not right away.

It sounds like you've been gone for a while, so I would suggest just playing as a preferred initially to get your bearings.

Take a couple days to figure out where you are, set up your UI, figure out if you want to continue with your existing characters or start over (you will probably want to start over anyway to get some of the freebies during the DvL event that is going on right now). The server you are on might be dead so figure out if you want to start over somewhere else.

After your get your bearings, you will want to use someone's referral link. The link will take you to your SWTOR account page and after you log in it will ask if you accept this person's referral. What will happen then is you will get 7 days of subscription access, along with a preferred friends bundle which every character you have or will ever create will always get. This is important because this gets you all 3 crew skills, an extra inventory module, I think the ability to display titles and one other thing (you can look on the sidebar for more information)

Finally after those 7 days you can decide if you want to subscribe for 1 month (this should unlock all the expansions and chapter 1-16 of KOTFE for you).

During this time you should just be playing and making money slowly. Don't unlock anything until your sub ends, but before your sub ends, every so often you should look in the GTN (auction house) for your account unlocks. Some of them you can buy with credits.

It was a year ago when I bought my Artifact Authorization (account) unlock, but I paid 8mil for mine (good luck finding one)

On a side note, instead of paying EA/BioWare directly for your 1 month subscription, there is a very good bundle you could get from Amazon (

Finally there are many different ways to find referral links to use. I'd suggest using one from a friend (if you happen to know one) or use one from someone that is willing to help you out in game for.

u/Hybrid_Divide · 5 pointsr/retrogaming

If you have good N64 controllers, consider a USB Adapter.

If you want something basic, go with this Mayflash N64 USB Adapter:

I haven't tried the Mayflash adapter yet, but I gave one to a friend, and she seems happy with it.

If you want something really good, try this one. It even has Controller Pak and Rumble Pak Support!:

Raphnet makes a ton of really good adapters for lots of different consoles.

Happy Gaming!

u/imaginarygary · 1 pointr/elderscrollsonline

My specialty, cheap gaming peripherals!

Here are some of my recommendations:

E-3lue Mazer II wireless

Cheap but good Anker mouse

Cheaper alternative to the Razer Naga

For higher range mice, in the 50-100$ range, I'd suggest either sticking with Logitech or Razer. I personally use a Logitech G9X mouse, considered by a lot of people (myself included) to be THE BEST gaming mouse ever made, however it only has 5 buttons and currently costs over 180$.

However, this is one that I'm eyeballing pretty hard, since it has a ton of buttons and is wireless, thus easier to take with me travelling.

My biggest suggestion, however, is to find a mouse that has interchangeable weights. I know it sounds like a silly gimmick, but by having different weights you can fine-tune your mouse to different playstyles and games. A heavier mouse allows for more precision (think long range sniper shots), whereas a lighter mouse allows for better reaction time. Once you use a weighted mouse it's very hard to go back.

u/Reynard_Austin · 1 pointr/GameDeals

Refurbished WiiU Pro straight from Nintendo is usually $200-$250, but it seems they're out of stock right now. Its fully compatible with Wii games and controllers, and most first party games so far support Classic controllers in addition to the Gamepad and WiiU controllers. This here will let you use a Gamecube controller as a "Classic Controller" through the Wii Remote. Mayflash makes some good adapters, I'm absolutely happy with my Classic Controller-PC adapter. The official adapter only works with Sm4sh and Dolphin on the PC currently, so the unoffcial one is needed for other games.

The WiiU is the only system really worth getting in addition to PC right now, it makes a great compliment.

u/Npakaderm · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The kickstand is nearly useless but there's a very inexpensive accessory that addresses the issue you mentioned and gives you some more flexibility to get the switch up at a better angle for your neck/back anyway. I am sure you're aware of this, and this doesn't invalidate your criticism but I think the kickstand was likely kind of an afterthought and it's nice to have in a pinch. Amazon link to item

Nintendo is exceptionally good at getting people to buy extras for their consoles, whether first party or third party. I have a closet full of random plastic holders for Wii controllers that were arguably completely unnecessary but for some reason I thought playing Wii Sports with a fake tennis racket was more fun. Not to mention the earlier gameboys, I had so much shit strapped to my OG gameboy that Nintendo arguably could have built into the device (light, better speakers, battery packs, etc) too. This is how Nintendo has always done it.

Edit: forgot to link to the accessory I bought to address the kickstand issue. Added.

u/JulsIII · 3 pointsr/Vive

The TM 16000 HOTAS - I use this for ED - Super awesome for the price. Most HOTAS are overpriced. This one is fantastic for the cost. TONS of buttons and neat features on the throttle you won't see anywhere else! I love the little throttle finger joystick, it makes for perfect lateral and vertical movements to mix with the joystick movements. The X52 will match the in-game model better, but honestly while in VR and doing stuff you're not going to be starring at your joystick and throttle in-game at all. Best budget HOTAS imo.

amazon link -

u/faortiz · 20 pointsr/wiiu

I purchased two adapters on amazon and here's what I got.

Both are the same, inputs are only for OTHER Wii remote accessories. I'm so frustrated because I was excited to finally use my GC controllers. But anyway, I'm trying to ask for a replacement but Amazon doesn't let me and says it's only for standard refund. DAMMIT.

Has this happened to anyone? How did you handle it? I don't want to pay for returned shipping and I would REALLY like to receive replacements already instead of having to look online again and purchase two more. I didn't even know that they made these? The picture clearly shows a slot for GC controllers. But yeah, all help/advice appreciated.

EDIT: I didn't mean to give amazon any bad light, they gave me a full refund right away and I'm still going to buy another pair of adapters to use my GC controller. Didn't mean to rant so much, I just thought this unlucky fail was hilarious enough for reddit to see.

EDIT2: I realized after reading some comments that I forgot to mention that I own the Wii U, although I hoped it was rather obvious seeing as how I posted this in r/WiiU. Thanks to those who rightfully assumed this

u/Didactic_Tomato · 9 pointsr/starcitizen

HOTAS is great and fairly easy to learn, though I heard double joystick is better for control.

I use the Thrustmaster T-16000M HOTAS which I know is pretty popular.

I'm hoping SC will have a preset for this set up at some point, because it becomes way easier to tweak it from a default setup than start completely over (for me).

For reference I've only been using HOTAS for about a month and I'm already 10x better at flying than I was. Also my landing looks way better ;)

u/T01110100 · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

Keep in mind that most of these will have a generic stiff shit cable nor can I promise the shape will be for you.


If you also plan on playing FPS with it:


For 20 USD(!) back at 30 USD, the Havit HV-MS735 is a pretty good budget option. Has a 3360 sensor, 12 grid, side scroll, and is ~107 grams with the internal weight removed, which isn't too bad for a 12 grid mouse, not to mention it being at the current price that it is.


At 30 USD, the updated Redragon M901 is the lightest 12 grid mouse available with a 3360. Has an additional button on the left side, and doesn't require any opening up to remove the weights. Weighs in at only 87 grams without weights.


At 60 USD (50 refurbished), the Corsair Scimitar is a 12 grid mouse with a 336X variant. Has the gimmick with adjusting the 12 grid, which is actually not too bad because if a 12 grid doesn't sit exactly right, you either lose full functionality or comfort. Unfortunately weighs a buttload at ~120 grams, which is normally a deal breaker for some.


Of course the Naga Trinity, which has the side panel gimmick. If the cable is like any recent Razer mouse, it'll have the best cable of the bunch by far. Also ~120 grams, so another monster in the weight class.


If you don't care about having a good sensor:


Logitech G600 at ~34 USD is an okay mouse. Logitech software is a lot better than Synapse and the crap the Chinese OEMs have. Has a pretty garbage sensor in it though, so FPS is going to be a no go.


Honestly though, the HV-MS735 and M901 are good. Unless you insist on using a mainstream mouse or dislike Chinese OEM software, the Redragon M901 is amazing due its weight class and the HV-MS734 is a budget god at 20 USD is still really good at 30 USD if you want side scroll.

u/Frawtarius · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've never gotten this question, and I've never really outright asked. What is a "gaming keyboard" for you guys? Is it snazzy lights? A cool logo?

You can get pretty much anything beyond a specific logo on any non-gaming keyboards. You can get media controls on pretty much any keyboard, more or less. You can get non-gaming keyboards full-sized, or TKL with a separate numpad, or a 60% and learn to use Function layers more (which is what I do, and have done, for a while, for both gaming and other functionality on a computer). You can get RGB lights on keyboards that aren't designated as "gaming" keyboards (though, admittedly, these are mostly custom keyboards, as mass-produced, mainstream, ready-made keyboards are usually designated "gaming" keyboards when they have RGB lights).

The only thing I'd recommend you look out for is to make sure it has mechanical switches, because their lifespan is much longer (than typical rubber domes on most keyboards). Mechanical keyboards last years upon years upon years, and the switches can be replaced individually (should they fail) if you're up to open the keyboard's case; on the flipside, if you want a snazzy "gaming(TM)" keyboard, then those very often see early failures in the individual LED lights that make up the RGB lighting, which are far more failure-prone.

tl;dr: Pretty much any good keyboard is also a good gaming keyboard, because good keyboards are defined by their switches and their durability; media controls aren't really used in gaming anyway, and are usually substituted with Function layer keys anyway.

Also, looking around Canadian Amazon, I realized 150 CAD is a bit less than I thought (seeing as I'm used to dealing with pounds and euros), but you could just get something like this, which is at a very reasonable price (though I haven't used this keyboard myself). On the flipside, I would warn you against keyboards like this one, which say they use "Cherry MX Blue Equivalent" switches, because the "equivalent" - especially when they don't name the switch and just say it's "Custom mechanical switches" - usually means they're some really low-quality switches, and you might find them not being nearly as durable, and feeling really weird and mushy right out of the box.

For other alternate options, you could consider this one, or something like this, if you don't care about RGB lights (because it has a few less noticeable (but more useful, in my opinion) features, like double-shot PBT keycaps, which take much, much longer to wear out and develop a "shine" on the keys; and a USB type-C connector, which is really just more convenient and more durable than the old(er) microUSB or whatever other connector a given keyboard has). It has a Space Grey colour option as well.

At the end of the day, all you need to really consider is the size of the keyboard (which you can make a bit easier for yourself by getting a separate numpad, should you really need one), the switches (which will change how the keys feel when you press them down), and programmability (i.e. whether the keys can all be re-binded or not). Everything else is tertiary, and mostly just vanity.

u/unforgiven60 · 2 pointsr/wow

If you mean how hard is the physical pressing action, it does not take much pressure. The buttons are small. I'd say it's about the same amount of pressure to push one as it does a normal key on a keyboard.

If you mean how easy is it to reach all of them? All 12 buttons are concentrated in a rectangle that measures probably 1"x2". For me, reaching buttons 1-9 is pretty easy without even having to shift my thumb at all. Buttons 10-12 took some getting used to but now it's second nature.

The biggest hurdle is just adjusting your muscle memory to using the mouse buttons for the majority of your actions. It took several play sessions to get used to it. To be honest, I felt like I was pretty worthless at first because I'd get lost in the heat of battle trying to remember what key I needed to hit. Lost several GCD's every now and then and also casted the wrong spell plenty of times. After a few sessions, it all pretty much clicked though and now it's second nature.

Don't switch to this style and expect an immediate improvement. You will get worse before you get better. Just like if you totally change up your keybinds, your body has to adjust.

Here is the mouse I bought. It's pretty cheap, so hopefully if you think it will help you, the investment is minimal. They make higher dollar ones that are probably better, so you can check those out too if you don't like this one.

They call them MMO gaming mice. If you want to search for that on amazon

u/qwertylerqw · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Well, good luck adjusting to Nintendo’s button layout!

If you’re wanting some game recommendations then you can’t go wrong with the popular ones. BotW and Mario Odyssey are fantastic singleplayer games, and Splatoon 2 and Mario Katy 8 are fantastic multiplayer games. The console exclusives are a great place to start

It’s also recommended that you have a screen protector because some users had issues with the dock scratching the screen. amFilm is a commonly recommended brand.

Other than that, the pro controller is great, especially because it’s a more traditional controller like the Xbox controller.

u/terryaki510 · 2 pointsr/smashbros

I've absolutely found melee to be a much more rewarding experience than any of the other games in the series. The 3rd party online through smashladder is ironically much better than online for any of the other games. As others have said, it's cheaper and more useful to get Faster Melee and a Mayflash adapter rather than getting a gamecube. This will allow you to play online. Check out SSBM Tutorials to learn more of the basics and figure out what character to play. Good luck, I hope you end up picking up the game. I'd also be down to teach you some of the basics if you're in the US and have decent internet, just dm me if you're interested.

u/Ibney00 · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive

1: Well if you are looking to build a PC, I can't help you. But google may be able to. And if you are looking for advice on what to use to build one, there is /r/BuildMeAPC.

2: From what I know of computers, not much. Laptops aren't the best thing to be playing CS on. Everyone will say that. Even Globals in Rank-S who won MLG KatowiceHack Open One Winter Colonge 2018.

3: I would assume? Again I have no clue. These are mostly computer questions you should google rather than asking for advice on a CSGO forum.

4: ??? I don't think there is a way to make the console show only the damage you dealt after death. Unless you are throwing a nade I don't think that is possible.

5: It's like matchmaking but better. With better players who are way above the skill level of GN3. I haven't even started ESEA and i'm DMG. You should probably only start when you get better.

ESEA is not free, however you are right. It seems they took the cost off of the front page. I believe normal was $7 a month last time I checked and premium was $15? But if you want to find out for sure, you can create an account like they seem to want you to to find out.

6: Personally, I use a Logitec G502 and have very few complaints. However right now that is around $70 so its a bit out of your price range. I found the Razer DeathAdder Croma for $54 with a quick google search, and the reviews for it seem good, but I can't speak personally about it. It (kinda) has a similar shape to the one you had before.

7: You need one that clicks for lack of a better word. Infinately spinning mousewheels don't work as a measure has been put in place to stop you from achiving Bhop by simply just mashing the space key and the same effect applies here. With a little practice with the mousewheel, you wont be super consistent like on say a Bhop map, but you can land 3 or 4 Bhops consistently.

Hope that helps a bit.

u/Enderzt · 0 pointsr/buildapc

I know some people may disagree with me on this, especially any audiophiles out there but I really like the Playstation Gold wireless headset.

only 100 bucks on amazon with a 4.5 rating from 1200 reviews? That's a pretty damn good score if you don't wanna take my word for it. I like the sleek look without a protruding microphone and the headset is over the ears and pretty comfortable. Obviously it works out the the box with the PS4 and PS3 with a simple USB dongle for the wifi paring. This dongle can be move to the PC for instant plug and play headphones as well.

u/CoryBoehm · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Some recommended Switch accessories:

  • A tempered glass screen protector such as ORLZY, Spigen or AMFilm. All are excellent only reason AMFilm gets more recommendations as it was first to market.

  • A protective case like Hori Tough Pouch

  • Hori LAN Adapter if you play online lots as the Switch has very weak WiFi service. Also other lan adapters may work but only the Hori one is officially supported.

  • Hori Play Stand if you frequently play in table top mode or need to charge while in table top mode.

  • Pro Controller

  • The [Google Pixel USB C-C charger] ( as it is easy to find locally, even on sale, and more compact than the Nintendo one but it won't power the dock.

  • Nintendo A-C cable (comes with the Pro Controller)

  • Your choice of headphones

  • A larger bag such as Butterfox Carry All case to hold your EDC (every day carry).

  • PowerA Cartridge Cases if you need extra game storage on the go (comes in several designs).

  • RAVPower 26800 PD a battery pack with both Type C in and out such as this one. Type C is means quicker charging and Type C out to safely power the Switch while using it.

  • PowerA Hybrid Cover might also be of interest to some people. I have not used it though as it is not my style. There are a few different colour/designs.
u/Igno_ · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

There are only a few updates right out of the box, and they dont' take long at all. I didn't get my console on a big holiday, however, so depending on how many people are trying to connect to Nintendo's servers on Christmas, it might take significantly longer.

A screen protector is very nice to have. I haven't got one myself, but I plan on getting one. Until then, I'm just very careful when docking/undocking my console.

For accessories, it depends. If you travel a lot or on a regular basis, a traveling case is definitely worth it. I got this one, and it's great. It's a tad bigger than the one found on Nintendo's website (even though it is an official Nintendo product), and comes with two four-cartridge cases and two SD card cases.
Depending on what games he has, your son might also want a pro controller. I got the $70 one here, but there is a cheaper $30 option if you really want it (but personally I wouldn't recommend it). I primarily use my pro controller for MK8D and Splatoon 2.
The last major accessory you might want is an SD card. Depending on how many games he wants to download as opposed to using a physical copy, an SD card might be worth it. I think the best option is a microSDXC UHS-I card, but I don't remember. The size depends on how much money you can spend and how many games you wanna download. I wouldn't really go for anything below 64GB, but that's just me.

u/iCeCoCaCoLa64tv · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Logitech G502 is always a good choice, but if you like MOBAs you might be interested in an MMO mouse. I've been using my Redragon Perdition M901 for years and it's still going strong, and it feels great. Highly recommend if you're interested in such a mouse.

u/teelap · 2 pointsr/MouseReview


I just dumped mine after the 3rd RMA. The original Nagas (2012) were amazing but the recent iterations have been pretty poor. Here are the options I found:

Corsair Scimitar Pro This is a smaller mouse than the naga, but provides the 12 button pad and has great software to boot

Logitech G600 This one is just a little too bulky for me, I have very small hands, but it is logitech. The dual dish feature is too weird for me.

Steelseries Rival 500 Not your standard layout, but a good sensor. Large mouse , very similar to the naga epic.

In the end, I went with the Rival 500, because I liked the features (programmable rumble support) and the Pixart 3360 Optical Sensor was a good choice. It is heavy, so not ideal for fps, but i use it anyways.

Also, there is always knockoff on amazon. My brother has this one and he loves it. Eh?

u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme
$1500 is not really the budget for a 144Hz build. You can get a PC that plays those games and you can also get a 144Hz display, but it won't be a PC that is suited for 144 FPS in new games. But in older games it will work, so maybe that is okay for you.

pc-kombo shared list

CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 1500X | $234.99 @
Motherboard | ASRock AB350M Pro4 | $109.99 @
Memory | G.Skill Aegis DDR4 DDR4-3000 8GB (8 GB) | $82.99 @
SSD | SanDisk Plus 240GB TLC (240 GB) | $115.85 @
Video Card | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 Mini | $329.99 @
Case | RAIJINTEK Arcadia Midi-Tower - white | $49.99 @
Power Supply | be quiet! Pure Power 10 (500 W) | $69.9 @
Operating System | Windows 10 Home (32/64-bit, USB Flash Drive) | $129.99 @
| Total | $1123.69
| Generated by pc-kombo 06.08.2017 |

With as display. That will leave you enough money to get a keyboard like and as mouse. Step down to a 60Hz display if it gets too expensive.

But you maybe should experiment with ergonomic mouses instead. is one common form, goes a bit further (and wow, that's cheap). They aren't necessarily great for shooters, but for slower games they work well, and the second one especially is great as soon as you are used to it.

There are also ergonomic keyboard. With mechanical keyboards you have to consider that the keys can be harder to press (for the Redragon one that is actually unlikely). That can be good or it can be bad, depending on the user.
u/AeiOwnYou · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Razor Deathadder Chroma is a pretty good gaming mouse. You can turn the LED off pretty easily so its not "xxgamerxx" I'm a pretty hardcore gamer. I use the deathadder. Haven't had any problems with it. Very accurate.

Marathon Mouse is super comfortable in my hand, i used it for a good 4-5 years before i replaced it. Very normal looking, very comfy. Recommend it to anyone that is a moderate-to-allday computer user.

u/mynfpacc · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

congratz dude!

I highly recommend a tempered glass screen protector as well! Someone already linked the screen protector from amFilm,it's the one I use as well and it's really great!

There have been some reports that people got their screens scratched by simply getting the Switch out of its dock. So having a screen protector should be your number one priority.

Honestly, you don't need anything else, at least not right now.

If you do feel like you'll often take the switch with you when you head out then by all means get a travel case as well. Hold off on getting any extra joycon or pro controller. Both aren't exactly cheap, I'd hold off on them unless you really need them.

And just for your interest, the switch is not region locked.

Which means, if you want to buy anything from the nintendo e-shop then check out this site beforehand.

This site compares all the prices for a title through all the different e-shops.

You can simply go on the nintendo website and change your country in the websites settings. Then you have to re-log into your nintendo account on your switch and then you can proceed to directly buy the game through the other nations e-shop.

I've gotten several games for super cheap that way.

u/colossalwaffle · 3 pointsr/residentevil

Might not be exactly what you want to hear, but I think you could greatly improve your experience by upgrading your headset. I have the Sony Playstation Gold headset which you can get on amazon for 70 bucks and I personally love it. I have been using it since I first got my PS4 years ago back when it was 100 dollars and I am still thrilled with it. The surround sound is really incredible and you can tell where everything is coming from. Works great if you are into playing multiplayer shooters as well, being able to hear enemy players can give you a huge competitive advantage you didnt even know you were missing out on.

u/vaughner · 3 pointsr/Switch

Not if you do it right.

Not sure if this is allowed but here is an Amazon link to the glass protector that I have.

It was easy to install. It came with all the necessary materials to ensure the screen is clean prior to installation. It also has two protectors in the pack so is a very nice deal.

Just take your time doing the installation. Make sure you follow the instructions. Like doing it in a bathroom after running the hot shower for a few minutes. The high humidity prevents dust from floating in the air as well.

u/Joimz · 2 pointsr/oculus

I recently picked up the Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS to replace my Thrustmaster T-Flight HOTAS X. I would recommend the T.16000M setup over the T-Flight mostly because the throttle and stick are completely separate, which is easy to appreciate when you've fumbled around with the T-Flight's awkward design when it's separated. The T.16000M also feels a bit more robust and having more buttons/options on the throttle (especially in VR) is a huge plus. All that being said, I spent a lot of hours in Elite with the T-Flight and you can't really go wrong with it. I fondly recall the shit eating grin I had on my face the first time I throttled up and instantly felt more 'connected' with my ship. Cheers.

u/kaliwraith · 1 pointr/Metroid

I am finally happy playing an emulator because of this adapter

I own it on SNES (and Wii) but I'm replaying super metroid: redesign (I love the new physics!) and I can finally use an original controller for it! My old 12 button gamepad still is great, though.

u/zushiba · 2 pointsr/IAmA

Wow that was way more information that I had anticipated. It's clear that you've given it a lot of thought.

Honestly as a somewhat fully enabled person myself, I had problems with The Witcher 3 on launch too. I just couldn't wrap my head around some of the default key binds and was happy that I could change them.

I know that WoW somewhat recently added a lot of color blind options for I think the 3 most common types of color blindness. I have no idea how successful they are.

Have you looked into any of the crazy MMO specific mice? There's a few that I'd think would be almost perfect for a usecase such as yours. The Roccat NYTH is fully modular, letting you place the physical buttons in different configurations, remove buttons or add different sized buttons. Then there's those mice with a hundred buttons on the side like the UtechSmart Venus or the Razer Naga. One of those might help you eliminate your keyboard turning. Though, we've had people in our raids that for one reason or another needed to use the keyboard rather than their mice and they seemed to do just fine. I think the whole "Keyboard turning" vs "Mouse Turning" is a similar argument to keyboard & Mouse vs Console Controller.

The reason I ask is not only do I have friends who've been in somewhat similar situations, thought not quite as extreme and because in my line of work I have to implement measures to support people with different abilities.

I'm a programmer at a college who's currently interim webmaster until we find a new one and I have to implement 508 Compliance.

u/McLovin_616 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This one will not hold your charger, but I highly recommend it because it is a hard case. People have had issues with their switch turning on in their cases and overheating because buttons get pressed and turn on the system. This one keeps the system totally secure and prevents that from happening. It is super durable and nice looking as well. It holds 8 games plus whichever one is in your system. There is a soft flap that protects the screen and it has a zipper enclosure to fit earphones or a few more carts.

u/sushi_cw · 3 pointsr/EliteDangerous

There aren't a lot of cheap HOTAS options. Some things to consider:

  • T-Flight HOTAS X is relatively cheap at $50, but has relatively few buttons to work with and mediocre sensors that can make fine aiming difficult. A lot of people use it and are very happy with it though.
  • T.16000M FCS is the next step up, and although it's fairly new it seems to be getting a pretty good reception. It's over your budget at $129 though.
  • Dual joysticks is another totally viable and fun way to play, although it may take a bit more work to find a way to control all thrusters that feels natural (some people use twist for forward/reverse, some add rudder pedals, etc). There are obviously lots of possible combinations, one that works for your budget is a T-16000m combined with a Logitech Extreme 3d pro, for $95 combined.

u/MamaLuigi9001 · 1 pointr/emulation

So I am planning to purchase a N64 Adaptoid that someone is selling and I have a few questions that would influence my decision on purchasing it.

1.Should I even buy an adapter? There are 3rd party wireless and wired N64 look a like controllers for PC. Should I consider those?

2.Is the Adaptoid compatible with Windows 10 64-bit?

3.Does Adaptoid work well with N64 emulators? Specifically Project 64.

4.Is this adapter or this [adapter] ( better than the Adaptoid? What are the Pros and Cons of each?

5.Is there any video showcasing the N64 Adaptoid? I would like to see how the pak peripherals work. (ex. Rumble, Transfer, Memory Paks.)

  • Do third party peripherals work with Adaptoid? Would they work in Project 64? (ex. Tremor Pak Plus, Tilt Pak.)

  • How do memory paks work with the Adaptoid? Can you edit saves and back them up?

  • When using this adapter with the VRU, does it work properly and does it work with Project 64?

  • Using the Transfer pak, is it possible to extract the save file of a Game Boy Color game to my PC?

    6.Is the Adaptoid Plug and Play? Or do I need to install specific drivers to get it working?

    7.Can I use this for other things as well? Such as for steam games and other emulators like Dolphin Emulator.

    Thank you ahead of time.
u/rodfather · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've been going overboard with accessories. Here's what I picked up so far:

Glass screen protector - Just in case.

128GB microSD card - I rarely buy physical games

Pro Controller - I love it. So comfortable.

PowerA Hybrid Case - I basically use this as a stand for my Switch when I'm on the go.

JDeal portable dock - It works. Make sure to follow the instructions. Works with my Nexus5x 5v 3A portable charger.

[Retractable HDMI cable] (

Hestia case - The Switch with the PowerA Hybrid Case, portable dock, portable USB-C charger, and retractable HDMI cable all fit in this.

USB 3.0 LAN Adapter - Faster speeds when on the official dock.

Gooseneck tablet holder - Ultimate comfort. Play while in bed.

Magic NS Wireless Adapter - I had originally bought this so I could use my PS4 controller. This was before I picked up the Pro Controller. It works. There was a recent firmware update that gives gyro support for PS4 controllers and it works well with Splatoon 2.

On the way:

Mumba case - For better comfort/protection while playing in handheld mode.

u/MonolithChaos · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey! Your friend is pretty lucky! Here's some of my recommendations:

  1. Only 1 version of the switch. Joy con come in different colors. No difference in performance. Just go for favorite color.

    The most common combinations in box are the grey joy con and the neon blue and red joy con boxes.

  2. Typically there aren't any deals for the switch that I'm aware of but I did see another post where Toys R Us was listing 10% off for the switch as part of stores closing

  3. Get a screen protector. There's a cheaply priced one on amazon. I've copied the link Here. I'd also get a case for the switch. There's a list of cases that can be found on the wiki. Lastly, I highly recommend the pro controller. It's definitely not required but it has significantly improved my gaming experience.

u/JoeSoSalty · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey guys, I'm looking for a tenkeyless/60% mech keyboard for preferably around $50, but could go up to like $70 if needed. I've never had a mech before, but I think i'm leaning towards black/red switches. Mainly gaming.

Unfortunately, i don't know too much about it and was hoping to get some help.

Smaller size and backlit is a must, but I don't need all the fancy RGB stuff, just a light of some sort.

Here's a couple that I like the look of: RedDragon one, This one that was posted from earlier today is amazing for it's form/size, as is this one, and I also like this one, but I've heard Corsair is bad?.

Thanks guys!

u/mourning_lemon · 2 pointsr/oculus

The best entry level HOTAS for Elite is (in my opinion) the T16000m setup. I've had that one, an X56, a T.Flight and a logitech flight stick and the 16000m is definitely my favorite. Plenty of buttons, pretty good ergonomics, affordable, and expandable (you can add a second stick and reverse the grips for your other hand as well as rudder peddles, though i don't actually like the ones that match the 16000m). It also has the same HALL sensors as the pro level Warthog flight stick. Elite in VR is awesome by the way

EDIT: you dont actually need a HOTAS for Elite though it is recommended by most people. I played like 300+ hours of Elite on an Xbox one pad. It isn't perfect but it works pretty well considering Elite has console support already so they have put thought into the pad controls. Also you can add a chatpad for extra binds. o7