Reddit mentions: The best power impact drivers

Tools: Just buy the cheap shit until you really understand what YOU need. I've been a weekend warrior for 20 years... if a I can do it myself I do it myself. About the only thing I won't touch is the inside of the furnace, AC, garage door springs, and an asphalt driveway. I've gone through a lot of tools... cheap and expensive... 90% of the time those cheap tools do the job just fine and last many years. I have cheap Taiwanese drop-forge tools plenty of people would turn their nose up to but I've used for 10+ years. I've broken plenty of expensive and supposedly high quality tools. Get stuff on sale... don't be afraid of buying used...

​

Here's what I'd say are the essentials

• Claw hammer
  
• Hacksaw
  
• Wood saw (manual)
  
• 12" pry bar
  
• 4' pry bar
  
• Level (somewhere between 12 and 48 inches)
  
• Speed square
  
• Mechanical pencil with .9mm lead and a clipboard
  
• Metric socket set 6mm to 18mm
  
• SAE socket set 1/8" to 1"
  
• Socket driver
  
• Socket driver in 3/8" and 1/4"
  
• Driver extension 3" to 5" long
  
• Cordless drill (I despise cordless stuff but this one needs to be cordless) Nothing fancy it just needs to drive screws and do light drilling
  
• More powerful drill that plugs in.... this is the workhorse. Use this for drilling larger holes.
  
• Drill bit index set
  
  • Wood 'spade' bits from 1/8" to 2"
    
  • High Speed Steel bits (the ones you're probably used to seeing typically)
    
• Needle nose pliers (heavy duty ones not the wimpy jeweler ones)
  
• Pliers (highly recommend robogrip pliers... sooo much better)
  
• Screwdrivers
  
  • You don't need a bunch of sizes; just get a few slotted and phillips drivers.
    
  • Get some screw driver bits for your cordless drill
    
• Utility knife (This one I'd recommend getting a middle teir one. The dirt cheap ones really are shit. Get something that is easy to change blades and has a little rubber pad to put your thumb on... you'll know why when you have to use one for more than a minute)
  
  ​
  
  Maybe noticed I've only mentioned two power tools. Yeah they are awesome but rarely REQUIRED to get a job done. Here's some really 'nice to have' power tools. Again I HIGHLY recommend you get non-cordless versions! They will be cheaper initially and in the long run as you don't have to buy replacement batteries. Usually more powerful than their cordless counterparts. Nothing sucks more than being in the middle of a job and your battery dies. Everyone will say "just get two or three!" Yeah, um, they are not cheap ... or I can grab a cheap extension cord and run the tools all day. I've tried plenty of cordless things in the past... my wife and I hate them for many reasons.
  
  Also you'd be surprised what you can find at your local pawn ship for power tools! Don't be afraid of buying used... just look it over; does it look OK? Ask to test it in the store... does it work OK? It's probably OK and only Black Friday deals will beat the prices. Plus sometimes you get a great score! I got an amazing Senco finishing nailer for $20. Yeah it looks ROUGH but it works GREAT! Who cares what it looks like? It's a $200 tool I got for $20.
  
  
• Sawzall (reciprocating saw)
  
  • Metal and wood blades
    
• Skillsaw (circular saw)
  
• Oscillating multi-tool
  
  • Metal and wood blades
    
• Radial arm saw
  
  • something that will cut at 2x10 easily is a good place to start
    
• Electric Impact Driver
  
  • This is a little confusing because for a long time impact drivers were thought of as the big impact drivers you see for automotive uses. What I'm suggesting are for smaller applications like screws or smaller bolts. It's more akin to a drill but has a light 'hammer drive' to it. Makes driving screws sooooooooooooooooooooooooo much easier. I don't know how many philips heads I've stripped out over the decades. Incredibly infuriating when you're in the middle of a job and have to spend 10 min fucking around with some screw that is now stuck because the damn head is all chewed up even though you were pushing down with all your weight and trying to gently pulse it out. These things are like magic... my wife can sink in a 3" construction screw with ease using this thing where a traditional drill would have failed her. She actually says it's her favorite tool. Plus they are smaller and lighter than your average drill. Here's a link to one I have but anything like this will work.
    https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCE201-4-3-Amp-4-Inch-Impact/dp/B00BD9XO1Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
    
• Air compressor (get one that's powerful enough to run the tools you use)
  
• Pneumatic air nailers
  
  • Framing nailer
    
  • Finishing nailer
    
  • Brad / staple combo nailer
    
  • If you don't want to go the compressor + pneumatic route then you can find electric versions of most pneumatic tools. I have very little experience with their electric counterparts; sorry.
    
• Table saw
  
• Orbital sander
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  Bro Tip: Best screw drive types in order of best to worst
  
  
• T25 star: These are soooo amazing for a few reasons but they aren't that common yet. Mostly only find them for large construction screws, decking screws and drywall screws. I hope this gets more popular though because its leaps and bounds better than any other type I've used. I can drive a 3" T25 construction screw one handed and I'm not a strong dude.
  
• #2 square: Not terrible but still prone to stripping out. Very common in drywall and durarock screws. Get this if you can't find T25.
  
• Phillips: Better than slotted... but not by much. Unfortunately VERY common. Very prone to skipping and stripping the screw and the driver bit. Once you do the screw is stuck because there's nothing left for the driver to grip on to. Best bet is to push as HARD as you can. You can't let the drill do the work here; you have to push REALLY fucking hard... and straight... Also a lot of people don't realize how many different sizes there are to phillips (and slotted) drivers / heads. Make sure you're using the driver tip that fits properly into the screw head you're driving.
  
• Slotted: Not only are they prone to everything wrong with phillips but they also are a PITA to keep the driver in the slot. They are overused in all kinds of applications they have no place being; super frustrating. Often best to use a hand tool. I will admit you can generally get a lot more leverage to torque a slotted down than on a phillips but that has rarely paid off for me in any meaningful way.
  
  ​
  
  That's all general construction / destruction tools. I could go on with what you'd want for plumbing, electrical, drywall, painting, finishing wood, landscaping, etc. etc. I don't want to overwhelm you... anymore =)

Alright, no offense to the first commenter but we need to clearly define what we are talking about.
There isn't an "impact driver drill" I believe your talking about something like this that is a cordless electric 1/4" impact driver. It accepts 1/4" hex driver bits notice the special cut out at the base of the bit, that's what keeps it from falling out. It functions like a drill/driver until it encounters sufficient resistance then it impacts, giving increased torque(rotational force), it does not produce a hammering force(along the axis of the bit).

Now this is an impact wrench it too functions like a drill/driver until it meets resistance then it impacts adding rotational force but not hammer force. What are the differences between this and the driver we looked at earlier? First is obviously size, the wrench is bigger, and stronger, and heavier. But that's not what makes it a different tool, what makes it different is the tip, it's a square, like for putting sockets on, in this case 1/2" sockets but they make 3/8", 1/4", 3/4" and much larger!

So could you use the first tool in place of the much larger second tool? Yes! Use one of these adapters

Here's the problem tho, the first tool, the driver, makes at most 117 ft-lbs, and I believe that's stretching, the second tool, the wrench, makes 700 ft-lbs. To remove a rusty, crusty, stubborn lugnut you will need the bigger badder tool, sometimes it still won't be enough, and you'll need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Now what the other commenter mentioned, the hammering force, that can be made with a few different tools. Let's start with the handheld impact driver yes it's confusing, two different tools, both called impact drivers, but this one we'll call the handheld, you hold it with one hand, and hammer it with a hammer. It has a cam mechanism that takes some of that axial force and imparts a slight (like 1/16 of a turn) rotation. It's good for stuck screws especially Phillips heads.

Another, more common tool is the hammer drill it is essentially a drill, it grips with three jaws onto the same bits as our first impact driver, or onto completely round bits, like your common drill bits but when you engage the hammer mechanism it will push its chuck forward and back rapidly, and the pressure you apply to the back of the drill hammers the bit into the material your drilling, useful for concrete/masonary work. But for real drilling power into concrete you want an SDS rotary hammer drill this bad boy only accepts SDS bits, provides it's own rotary and axial forces and will drill thru reinforced concrete like non reinforced butter.

Ok I think that about covers it, if anyone would like to add on I'd appreciate it. And remember:

Always use the right tool for the job, a hammer is the right tool for every job, and every tool can be used as a hammer!


Obviously that was sarcasm.

Woah okay.

First the seals - I'm assuming he's just talking about the lower unit seal. Easy to replace and should be done every few years anyway. You'll replace the water pump (impeller) at the same time. You can do this yourself. There are tons of YouTube videos on this the hardest part you'll have is disconnecting or disengaging the shift cable when lowering the lower unit out. On some Johnsons it's a little clip that is hard to get to but again, YouTube. This is the water pump kit for mine and may be for yours as well, look up your model there. Also you'll want to drain and replace the lower unit gear old while you're doing that. You can buy a kit with the oil and the pump if you want, or oil and pump separate, or if you hate yourself you can use the squeeze tubes. Again, YouTube. One piece of advice though is if you can not get the vent plug or drain plug use one of these impact drivers. Then put some marine grease on the threads when putting them back in.

Yes you can fix a small hole. Rough out edges, apply, reinforce, and sand. It's your call if you want to paint it to match or just a protectant coat.

Tune up - if it runs great don't mess with it. Otherwise spark plugs, wires if needed, carb cleaned, etc. Check the rubber hoses for leaks and cracks though (fuel lines, water lines, etc). Painting it is up to you. There's lots of good fiberglass restore products out there if it's just oxidation. Just lots of elbow grease. Or a polisher.

For a mechanic... I can't throw a rock here without finding a good outboard mechanic if needed. Start asking around a local marina, other friends with boats, etc. Some dealers are good.

For the canopy, I got mine off Amazon here just measure and choose your size. Super easy to install.

For other essentials that kind of depends where you're going and what you're doing. Most states also require an auditory signal (whistle, horn, or air horn) and a fire extinguisher. Since it's an outboard maybe your state doesn't but always nice to have. Also a throwable flotation device (square foam thing that you can sit on or store away).

DeWalt makes/sells 60V batteries for their FlexVolt tools, they also have a higher amp hour rating when used on 20V tools - meaning they last longer.

I'm an electrician, and I use all Dewalt 20V XR tools, love em, absolutely zero issues. I've been pounding holes with a 2" holesaw and 7/8" auger bit at work and my 4 amp hour batteries last pretty long imo. I've also had a bunch of my power tools for years, so I'm a fan of the quality, especially since I drag mine through the dirt, drop them, get them wet, and I've flown with them a lot.

You definitely do not need FlexVolt tools, as a homeowner/casual DIY'er it's overkill, do not let anyone try to sell you that. It's a waste. Hell, the XR tools are probably more than enough, bordering on "might be more than you need". The regular 20V stuff is good enough for around the house.

As for the other brands, people are going to obviously point out Milwaukee and piss themselves like an excited dog going on about their stuff, personally I find it overhyped. While it's good, and I've used a bunch of their stuff, I still like my DeWalt. Also, usually it's pretty expensive - but when I compare prices I'm usually looking at their higher end stuff (M18 Fuel).

Makita is nice, not a lot of people use it, I'll leave it at that.

People say Ryobi is good for around the house, but I've always thought of their stuff as bargain bin tools. You buy it when you're broke and need a drill to do something, and might use it twice a year.

Rigid has a reallllly good warranty, their tools aren't half bad. I'd recommend them over Ryobi and Makita any day. Worth mentioning that Home Depot usually has "Rigid Days" or something where they have really good deals.

To sum it all up: Milwaukee is overhyped imo, DeWalt till I die, who uses Makita? lolRyobi, Rigid is also good. So DeWalt or Rigid.

Obviously batteries are always going to keep changing. It's bound to happen. They're constantly developing new and better technology so it only makes sense.

Also, I should have pointed this out first... You can still get DeWalt 18V tools on Amazon...

Here's the saw: https://www.amazon.ca/DC390B-Bare-Tool-18-Volt-Cordless-Circular/dp/B002VWK5RI/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1X0DARJY06Y35&keywords=dewalt+18v+circular+saw&qid=1556835828&s=gateway&sprefix=dewalt+18v+circu%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-1

Here's the impact: https://www.amazon.ca/DC825B-Bare-Tool-18-Volt-Cordless-Battery/dp/B002RT7K4Q/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dewalt+18v+impact&qid=1556835851&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Apologies if you're not Canadian, but the US Amazon should have them as well.

I know tools so here we go. Focusing on the extras, luxuries, and conveniences. If I don't specifically note a manufacturer/model I probably just grabbed the first Amazon link to make it clear what I'm talking about.

• 12v impact gun/electric ratchet. These are an awesome luxury for working on cars, much time spent turning ratchets will be saved. Also useful around the house for driving sheetrock screws. I like the Bosch PS41 for bang for the buck and Milwaukee M12 for the full 12v set (they have a ratchet, Bosch doesn't).
  
• Fucking magnet trays, how do they work?!
  
• Amazeballs stocking stuffers: finger bit adapters.
  
• Timing light
  
• Torque wrench
  
• Dremel. I have the cordless one because every Dremel I've ever broke has failed at the brushes and it has a BLDC but that's actually been a really useful feature for working on cars. Grab and go.
  
• 4.5" grinder. Pick your favorite color but you usually can't go wrong with yellow or red.
  
• Wobble extensions
  
• Hex and/or Torx bit set
  
• TS8000 MAP gas torch and bottle. I should've put this higher cause this is crazy useful and everyone needs one.
  
• Decent wire strippers
  
• Multimeter/DMM. There are various guides out there but I think there's an Extech that's a commonly recommended entry level DMM.
  
• If they're into old shit aka carburetors grab an ultrasonic cleaner.
  
• Flex head ratchet in your favorite size.
  
• Snap ring pliers

Oh, yeah, so this is an easy problem.

I find drywall screws work the best, so go to home depot and pick up a box. You'll also want to get some fender washers because the screw head itself doesn't provide enough contact points to properly anchor the surrounding material. And, of course, you need a drill motor. I prefer this Makita cordless impact driver (you'll need to get a battery if you don't have one.)

Now, mount the CPAP straps in the manner in which the device normally rests on your husband's head. Place one fender washer on each screw you intend to install, and, using considerable force, apply the screw and washer assembly using the drill motor through the CPAP straps and into your husband's head. This may cause some bleeding, so be sure to clean the area thoroughly as you proceed.

With practice and determination, the process should get easier as the days progress, and with the added sleep you and your spouse will get, each successive day will be another blessing.

Very easy to do a rotor and pad job yourself. Does require a couple of tools though. Even with the tools you'll be saving a bunch of money.

Changed the front brakes on my sister's civic for less than $150 dollars for the parts.

Besides sockets and a ratchet, you'll want to either get a C-clamp or a a brake caliper tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Disc-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0002SQU9K

Also some brake lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24129-Silicone-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B01L1LV9F6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496554333&sr=1-11&keywords=brake+lube

And sometimes its tough to take the rotor screws off, for that you will need an impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O16UPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since your car is pretty new, you might not need the impact driver unless your rotors are rusty.

I used this rotor + pad set for the car : https://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K1043-Evolution-Drilled/dp/B005FKMOWM

I've put powerstop rotors and pads on 4 cars now and they have worked quiet well. Some people were saying that the drilled rotors are prone to cracks, but that won't happen for a daily drive car on the street. Other rotor and pad options:

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BD125669E-Premium-Coated-Brake/dp/B00HJJDSZO

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-17D914C-Professional-Ceramic-Front/dp/B000IYY7PW

Rears will be different than the ones I posted, so check and see what will fit. Amazon makes it pretty easy, just enter your car and it'll tell you what fits.

Since you have watched videos on the change, I don't think you need me to tell you how to do it.

I can't speak highly enough of knipex's slip joints and especially their pliers wrench. Holy hell do I love their pliers wrench. This Raptor is also exceptional, and all the Raptor branded hand tools are are a very good quality for a very fair price.

Makita, Milwaukee and Dewalt all make very serviceable cordless tools. My brother runs Makita and likes them a lot. I'm in DeWalt, and some of the new 60v stuff is really cool. Also Dewalt has this impact driver which has a push button bit release instead of a collet and a three speed torque selector. Probably my favorite tool of all time.

I agree with anyone else who's saying to just buy stuff as you need it rather than pre-buying stuff you may never need. When you do buy things, absolutely buy quality. There are some worthless brands that you'll usually regret owning, like Ryobi; there are brands that you will never regret owning (although you might regret overspending based on your usage) such as Milwaukee; and there are brands in the middle, such as Hitachi & Bosch.

The trick is that some tools are more important to buy quality than others. Most hand tools like hammers & screwdrivers are universally simple and it doesn't matter what brand they are. This is also true of select power tools, including angle grinders and bench grinders--go ahead an buy the cheapest option on those because I've never seen one fail. Other tools are literally garbage if you cheap out, such as cordless drills.

Apart from basic hand tools like hammer, tape measure, screwdrivers, etc, the only tool I'd consider indispensable is the cordless impact/drill driver. It's the most used tool in my house by far. I personally own this Hitachi model and it's bulletproof. Get a bit set to go with it.

Some other wisdom:

• Don't waste money on bleach-based cleaners. Buy bleach and mix with water in a spray bottle at 1:4-1:9, depending on how brutally you want to clean your shower/mold accumulator. (LPT: clean you showers & toilets every couple weeks before they start growing visible mold)
  
• Vinegar is also a cheap cleaner and substitutes for CLR in many cases, such as cleaning scale deposits on glassware & shower doors.
  
• Use white rags to clean surfaces instead of paper towels. Cheaper/less wasteful. Then use bleach when you wash a load of rags.
  
• Watering your lawn is a massive waste of resources. Don't get sucked into the perfect lawn contest that many neighbors seem to play. When I see a lush, green lawn during the dry heat of summer when sensible grass has gone dormant I mentally flag that person as an insecure douche who's a big contributor to the tragedy of the commons that is our water consumption and general treatment of natural resources.
  
• Fertilizing your lawn is even crazier to me. I see neighbors with fertilized lawns, with their "keep pets, children, & pregnant women away" signs, and I think of the excess nutrients running off into the storm water and polluting rivers and lakes. And for what, grass on steroids that you have to mow more often? If you're looking to waste more of your time on lawn care then I have a lawn you can come mow. Basically this is just another plea for you to not try to "keep up with the Joneses."
  
• Label your breakers, or double-check them if they're already labeled.
  
• Whenever you have something go wrong, search youtube for the problem first. You can save a boatload of money by DIY. Example: My clothes dryer stopped heating. Instead of a service call, I spent 10 minutes on youtube watching someone else fix my exact problem, then bought a $5 part on amazon, and spent another 30 minutes fixing the issue myself.
  
• Buy a clothes drying rack or hang up a clothes line in your laundry room. You can save a ton if you're not using the dryer all the time.
  
• If you're going to stay in your house long-term then go buy LED bulbs to replace any incandescents. Replace CFLs as they burn out. If you're not going to be there forever, just buy CFLs if you want to save a little money. The energy savings from incandescent (~60w) to CFL (~13w) often makes more sense than spending extra to get LED (~9w). However, do buy LED for all of your most-used fixtures, or if you have kids that always leave lights on. That extra efficiency pays off when you're talking about the kitchen or living room where a light is on much more than the guest bedroom, for example. Don't overlook outdoor fixtures, especially for things like motion-sensing lights, where an LED flood light can save a bunch over halogen.
  
• Make sure to clean things that circulate air, as clogged radiators reduce efficiency and increase wear/tear. Key places to keep clean include your furnace filter, central AC condenser (these collect a LOT of dust/debris), clothes dryer vent (and lint trap), and refrigerator.
  
• Use an app like Google Keep to keep a list of housework to-do. You can add to the list anytime you think of stuff so you don't forget what needs to be done around the house as you have time.
  
• Try to do one small project every night, or whatever schedule makes sense to stay ahead of the never-ending list. Don't let your to-do list build up. If you get behind on it, just pick something and get it done rather than stressing about how much housework you have to do.
  
• Don't put any food waste down your sink/toilet/drains. Don't use your garbage disposal to dispose of garbage (I know, such a misnomer). Especially anything containing fat because it congeals in your sewer line & causes problems. If you have food waste, put it in the trash (or compost). Better to take out the trash more often than to pay a plumber hundreds to unclog your sewer.
  
• Don't overload your washing machine. Also, wear clothes several times before washing if possible, especially jeans. You don't necessarily have to wear the same thing day after day, but most clothes don't get dirty enough to warrant washing after a regular day for many people. Obviously if they stink then wash them, but for example I rotate two pairs of jeans every other day for two weeks and then wash them. This saves you time & money.
  
• Key all your locks the same.
  
• Don't get too obsessed with DIY-ing everything that your quality of life suffers. Sometimes it's totally justifiable to pay a professional to do work so you can enjoy life or do other things.
  
  Edit: Formatting help lied about how to format a bullet list.

Both of those screw guns are for drywall. Those aren't the best choice for building a fence, or really anything except drywall. It might work, but it's going to make it more difficult. Any chance you can return those tools and pick up an impact driver like THIS?

As far as screw lengths, if you're planning on toenailing the screws, you could probably get away with 2" screws, but longer will be better. I would use 1-1/2" for the pickets.

Instead of toenailing the 2x to the 4x, you might have better luck with a bracket like THIS. You could also use shorter screws that way, so your tools might work better.

I would get this:

https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK240C2-Lithium-Driver-Impact/dp/B00IJ0ALYS/

I have that set and I use the impact driver 90% of the time. It is lighter, smaller (easier to fit in tight places) and more powerful. I pretty much only use the "regular" driver from the set when I have a special bit that won't work with the impact driver.

Edit: I actually just realized I have this brushless impact driver:

https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF887B-Li-Ion-Brushless-3-Speed/dp/B0183RLW8A/

but the "regular" driver from that set. Brushless generally gets a bit more life out of a battery, not a ton of other difference.

Also, you can do most exterior work (drill into brick, concrete, etc) with the impact driver and the correct bit(s) (or the other driver and correct bits). I've put in concrete anchors in slab, drilled holes to mount things in a brick wall, etc with pretty much the first set I linked.

I would recommend a brushless impact with mode speed selector, these are a bit newer and will probably be an upgraded feature over his current one. I have this specific impact and it's great, but there are other similar models in various kit forms that also offer modes.

Makita XDT14R https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4HGMXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0YC9AbSSXC743

I would definitely get a brushless hammer drill, not sure it matters too much in which model/feature because I don't think they differ that much once you get into the brushless models.

Lots of kits available depending on his battery situation, so pick through those, depending on current prices some are much better deals than others.

Holes saws are great and have their place, but the impact/ spade bit combo seem to be the ticket for 90% of my uses. Also, I didn't bother to look up what drill you have before, but now I see it's a newer dewalt. Get an impact driver, the difference is night and day. And if you don't have a spare battery, it's super convenient to not have to wait for a recharge while working. Bare tool $70 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ML7GDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1484804561&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+driver&dpPl=1&dpID=415uG8%2BV3dL&ref=plSrch

Or with battery $100

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LBT3AZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484804561&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+driver&dpPl=1&dpID=51oJlJzJjIL&ref=plSrch

Start with a basic tool kit: screwdriver set, hex wrenches, pliers, box cutter, level, hammer, ect.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495687960&sr=8-3&keywords=Tool+kit

Something like this.

Then i definitely recommend socket wrenches.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWMT73804-Drive-Socket-Piece/dp/B00WLVV2YE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1495688089&sr=8-9&keywords=socket+wrench

Next I'd recommend an impact driver. There are going to be times where your drill won't cut it.

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCI20C-Lithium-Impact/dp/B00JJ3QY9A/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1495688152&sr=1-4&keywords=impact+driver

I purchased a circular saw recently and have gotten a good amount of use out of it. If you don't plan on doing any woodwork then pass on this.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDECS300C-Circular-Laser/dp/B01LX8KOAD/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1495688185&sr=1-6&keywords=circular+saw

Probably outside of your price range if you're sticking to $300 but a pressure washer is amazing. I use mine all the time.

Another extra item would be an air compressor. You can use it for tons of stuff such as nail guns.

And then also you'll need all your yard work tools. Loppers, shovels, rakes, trimmers, ect.

Oh man.... All the stuff to maintain your home is so expensive. But I'd start here.

The new 20v li-ions might change your mind about batteries. I have a 20v li-ion brushless impact. It is amazing, and being an impact it is easy to stop at a certain depth plus you don't need to mess with chucks to switch bits, it pops in and out easily.

I'm sure it sounds like a joke but I used this to put my PC together and I absolutely recommend that you don't do the same.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074BHJQB3?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

There's no free lunch, so yes, you will be wearing out the parts in the clutch. The question is whether or not the clutch was designed for that type of use or whether it was designed to occasionally save your butt when you accidentally apply too much torque to a fastener. I think it's almost certainly the latter.

I think you'd really like an impact driver.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS41-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003LST02W

I use a small 12v impact driver (brushless is better since it doesn't get weaker over time as contacts get dirty).

Or I use my 12v ratchet

This is my favorite set of wrenches They are long, have swivel heads and the way the ratcheting part protrudes on one side makes all the difference in a ton of situations.

Here, check out this video for the chisel and other methods: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5d0Bgvjmlk


I second what /u/DC_Farmboy said about the impact driver. It probably wont help you for the bolt that is already stripped but it is a valuable tool when working on these older machines. Also, i would just hit that bike with a power washer or a hose and some degreaser. You are going to be taking it all apart anyway, a little more water wont harm it.

Edit: Just read what you said about the power wash. If you stick a shop towel in the carb intake and use a fan tip on the power washer i doubt you would disconnect or break the wires

TBH, I'd just drill the heads off, in your position. something like 1/4" diameter is all you need, and you only need to go in maybe 1/4" before the head will pop off. You don't even need to worry about messing up the rotor since you are replacing it.

I'm pretty sure the impact screwdriver that people are mentioning here is not something you can get at home depot. Rather, its this very simple thing you whack with a small sledge that simultaneously uses the hammer's impact to hold the bit in the screw and gives the screw a tiny turn. [Edit]: I have used them many times for Honda rotor screws. Pretty much the only reason I have one.

Here's a sample...
https://smile.amazon.com/ARES-70006-Reversible-Applications-Disengage/dp/B01F5XOFFM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1541261270&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=impact+screwdriver&psc=1

Looks awesome! Puts my box to shame. Only suggestion would be look into an impact driver to match with your drill. Works fantastic on panel screws. Even ones put in with gorilla torque and then some. Worth its weight in gold.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS41-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003LST02W

DEWALT 20V MAX XR Impact Driver Kit, Brushless, 3-Speed, 1/4-Inch, Tool Only (DCF887B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0183RLW8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2uWVDbGAZT27M

Get this get some bateries keep improving your xr lineup. Theyre good tools they will last you years and actually work for you.

M12 baby impact


Lightweight and small; a better version of those chinsy "powered" screwdrivers.


Otherwise, makita/dewalt/milwaukee/bosch will all be a good purchase and last 2 or so years depending on how hard they get used.

Getting the numbers off Amazon spec sheets. I see the weight on the 18V Impact Driver, but not the new one. Having lifted one in the store it appears to be similar in weight.

DCF887: 2.4#
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF887B-Li-Ion-Brushless-3-Speed/dp/B0183RLW8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522688641&sr=8-1&keywords=DCF887

DC825B: 2.2#
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DC825B-18-Volt-Cordless-Package/dp/B002RT7K4Q/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1522688604&sr=8-6&keywords=18v+dewalt+impact+driver

Note this is for just the tool. As I said, the Lithium battery appears to be 1# lighter, but I could just buy new batteries for far cheaper.

I see your point about the better power, but I've yet to encounter anything that it struggled with, and I've done just about everything but metal working or car repair.

You're also mistaken about the lights. Not sure if it's LED or not, but there's at least one bulb.

Brushless vs Brushed is nice, but I don't think it gets me much. First, it makes the tool more efficient, but I can just switch batteries. Second, it increases the lifespan of the tool, but I don't care if I'm replacing it before it wears out.

Just as an aside, get the one with the 1/4" chuck, then buy the 1/4" to 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" adapters. The 1/4" chuck is way better than would seem, and the boss ring on the 3/8" falls out pretty much instantly, meaning it won't hold sockets. Trust me, I've used all the DeWalt cordless impacts, the 1/4" punches way above it's weight.

This is the correct answer.

Get the high-end version of this and never sweat those stupid things again.

The impact helps to shake any rust loose behind the fastener. The impact also forces the tool to engage the Fastener walls better so it doesn't slip.

It was maybe once a year that a hand impact would fail to get these out first shot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F5XOFFM/

Manual impact driver. Pretty much an essential tool, and it's the only thing that works reliably well on those.

I bought one of these for my Honda, works like a charm.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O16UPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> I own the Hitachi DS 18DSAL, that takes the BSL1815X 18v, 1.5Ah battery.
>

I was considering this impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3W7122/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


I'm definitely a "regular sized folk" :-)

Lifetime tradesman here. Makita builds great saws, but their drills are not up to par. They have had many issues over the years with the most recent being charger issues. The chargers have/had a faulty fan in them that would not keep the charging unit cool enough charge. Love Makita saws.... Hate Makita drills. Anyone who says differently is misinformed or has not used drills on a daily basis.

Dewalt is still fine. The premiere tool for driving screws is the impact driver. And the Dewalt 18 volt impact driver is literally 'bombproof'. There is no finer screw driving device than this.

I have a friend who works in a service center that services all brands of tools. He says that, short of being run over by a cement truck, this dewalt driver cannot be destroyed. I own 2.

I am not a Dewalt enthusiast. Some of their stuff is junk, but their drills beat Makitas hands down.

we have a set of the Milwaukee m12. perfect small size for all things IT.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EB23QAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1487300372&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=milwaukee+m12&dpPl=1&dpID=41YT6h1mL6L&ref=plSrch

Stanley Proto J7099A 13 Piece 3/8" Drive Hand Impact Driver Set https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002C5ONG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eGyaCbR11Y8HS

I have the M12 Fuel driver. I've had it for about a year and a half I think and haven't had any problems. A single battery will last about a week with the brushless impact driver.

But Makita also has a pretty nice setup, not quite as powerful and they're brushed, so not as "fuel efficient," but they are a little bit smaller than the M12 driver.

I love these Bosch 12V tools (I'm sure there's other manufacturers as well). Sure, you may need an 18V if you're bolting lag screws into framing lumber all day everyday, but you can't beat these little powerhouses when it comes to being convenient, light, and always having power.

This. Definitely a hammer-style impact driver. Something similar to this 648002 1/2" Dr. Impact Driver Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QO9FK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V1y6CbDD8GZR3

If you get an impact screwdriver those things wont strip and come right out. Can't say the same for the rotor, but the screws will be easy.

I cant speak for this product, but this is the same type I use.

Looks like you do.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002C5ONG8

May just take a little more searching.

If you plan on driving screws more often than drilling holes, I'd recommend an impact driver instead of a drill/driver. I have the 18v Bosch combo kit: impact and drill/driver, and I find that I use the impact weekly but the drill only gets used every now and then.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS41-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003LST02W

Getting both in a kit isn't much more.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CLPK22-120-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Carrying/dp/B005GT0IWK

As far as brands, it's hard to go wrong with Bosch, Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee. Pick whatever has the best price this week.

What is the difference between Makita XDT111 and XDT131 besides the 131 being brushless. Same price on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XDT131-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B074BHJQB3/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1509981470&sr=8-11&keywords=brushless+makita

you may have been using tools that seemed to fit, but i doubt you were using the right tools the right way if you ended up like this. Soft bolt materials aren't the issue.

You need to use a hand impact driver. I'd be surprised if you heard of it, let alone had one and used it correctly. But every professional mechanic has one and uses it when needed.

If the previous doesn't work try an Impact Driver. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01F5XOFFM

I don't see the brushless offset white rectangle thing...

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF887B-Li-Ion-Brushless-3-Speed/dp/B0183RLW8A/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dewalt+impact+driver+brushless&qid=1575079176&sr=8-1

Get one of these and a hammer.

Hahah.. um, this?

I believe my adapters came in a Dewalt kit that had a bunch of various things in it...

Basically these... https://www.amazon.com/3-Piece-Adapter-DW2541IR-DW2542IR-DW2547IR/dp/B01M7PNH4L

Dewalt 20V Impact Driver

for staties: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J7099A-Impact-Driver/dp/B002C5ONG8

Or just get an impact driver. http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-19620-2-Inch-Driver-Impact/dp/B002O16UPM/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371440230&sr=1-2&keywords=impact+driver

What's the big deal. They still sell those I have one in my garage. Does what it's supposed to do

I would say the bigger the more dangerous. Most often the threads will not break and you'll be left with a bolt/nut digging into whatever it is that you're anchoring. I have two DeWalt impact drivers: both cordless 20volt, one with approximately 160 Nm and a 1/4" chuck, the other is a 1/2" drive high torque driver with a maximum output of approximately 950 Nm. I've snapped grade 8 half inch lag bolts with the big one.

All in all I would suggest for standard use a 1/4 inch chuck, not drive, light duty impact wrench. Anything you feel might not be tight enough go ahead and use a socket and ratchet wrench to confirm and you should be all good.

DEWALT DCF887B 20V MAX XR Li-Ion Brushless 0.25" 3-Speed Impact Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0183RLW8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PleoybVS9H9CS

Source: I work in heavy construction

For anyone curious, this is the "big brother" - DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ioeoybRH1MZTV

As a last resort, before you strip the screw heads, use one of these, and dip your apex tip in some lapping compound.

Seriously, only as a last resort, because if it doesn't work you'll have to drill them out when the inpact slips and skips.

Nice list!

I'm also a non-professional mechanic, but here are my additions:

> Dead-blow hammer http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3188-Dead-Hammer-3-Pound/dp/B000NPT648/

> Impact Driver http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-19620-2-Inch-Driver-Impact/dp/B002O16UPM/ - This + the dead blow hammer will save you a lot of stripped Phillips (or JIS) screws on older bikes.

> Carb Sync Tool http://www.650ccnd.com/mano.htm - This is one you can probably live without, and you can buy something pre-made, but the cost-functionality ratio can not be beat on this one