Reddit mentions: The best securing straps

Sure. The easy way to see how it's done is to google DIY door frame pull up bar, which ALERT contains one photo of a totally naked woman doing a pull up. You can look at the images to see how others did it, and if you click on one of them, google gives you the option to go to the Web page the image is on, which will give you DIY instructions. Some people use pipes, some wood frames, and some give directions on mounting the bar on wooden posts in the yard. One shows the pipes mounted on a ceiling in a garage. Lots of better illustrations than I could give.

Assisted pull ups can be done without bungee cords if you make your own TRX setup with your door frame pull up bar. Use straps long enough to reach the floor and sturdy enough to support your weight. Lay on your back and pull yourself up on a strap. Look at the TRX website for ideas. Use your body weight as resistance until you can do a full vertical pull up.
You don't need TRX straps a $200; I've bought comparable straps on Amazon where they're called nylon lashing straps or securing straps. Some have buckles, some have velcro, some have plastic snapping latches. Get a couple that will support your weight with some adjustable closure system (metal buckles that catch on the nylon anywhere on its length, for example).

If you prefer bungee cords, buy two that will support your weight long enough to reach the floor from your bar, with some additional length to let you attach the cord to the bar and then to a plank. Drill holes in the plank (short enough to fit in the door, long enough to stand on, put the cords through the holes and secure. This will take some experimenting. Make the cords short enough the plank isn't on the floor when you're not on it, but long enough it touches when you are on it. Use cords that will give you enough boost to let you lift yourself with effort but not enough to launch you. :-> Using multiple cords will let you adjust their resistance without having to buy a new ones every time you gain strength -- just remove one to lower their lifting power.

You might find it simpler using a TRX approach than bungees. Note that Target sells a door frame pull up bar for under thirty bucks with bonus ab straps. :-> Instructions on hanging it (notice the crack in the wall above the frame). Notice she uses a chair and gives herself a boost with one leg instead of using counterweights or bungees (but take your leg off the chair when you're up and let yourself down slowly -- see [here]9https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=W_vw0P8EVwQ#t=138). I wonder if those artworks above the fireplace are body molds of her?

So figure out what works for you. Whether it's the counterweight system with weights you already have or a Target pull up bar or a set of pipes you put together yourself, have fun.

We've moved quite a bit in the last few years. Here's our preference.

1. Bankers boxes. These are tough boxes that are not too large. Plus the have nice spots to label them. We write the contents of everything contained within the box on the box. You likely won't have time. Do yourself a favor and get some colored circle dot stickers. Each color represents a room. When you're done loading them, put a color on them. When you get to the new place, use those same stickers to label each room (e.g. put a red dot on the bathroom mirror). Makes it easy to move boxes in.
   
2. A nice dolly. I generally recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cosco-Aluminum-Truck-Assisted-wheels/dp/B00HOGSOPG (you can get it at a Costco Business Center for about $80)
   
3. Something like this for your furniture: https://www.amazon.com/9850-Carpeted-20-Inch-30-Inch-Capacity/dp/B000BD5I58/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=flat+dolly&qid=1550900979&s=hi&sr=1-18. Also get some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Thenewallhere-Adjustable-Shoulder-Furniture-Appliances/dp/B077GYQTSM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=furniture+moving+straps&qid=1550901118&s=hi&sr=1-5
   
4. We've always used Penske for our trucks. The other companies we tried always had some kind of a snag (didn't have a truck despite us having a reservation, hidden fees, breakdowns etc).
   
5. If you don't have enough friends on either end of the move, use Dolly.com. In my experience, it takes twice as long to load as it does to unload.
   
6. Buy a case of water at Costco and put a few Bankers boxes with essentials (toilet paper, toiletries towels, etc.) in the cab of your truck. Makes it easy to find when you're tired from moving.
   
7. CREATE A SAFE SPACE. Commit to completely unpacking one room of your house entirely in the first few days. This becomes your escape from the rest of the house that will be messy for a long time. You'll thank me in a month or so.

oh i couldn't see those in the other shot, that actually looks pretty good :) the ratchet strap may be overkill for holding them to the wall, i'd just drive some simple anchors into the wall studs and use bungees. in that photo i posted above they were hard tied to one end to make it easy to setup and remove, you couldn't lose them and they were just the right length. worked a treat!

you may also want to grab some of these for your floor mounted E-track, it takes away some tripping / toe stubbing hazard.

the other pro tip is to get a couple of E-track eyelets and put one on the floor and another on the wall directly above it, near the ceiling. span your tie down straps between them when not in use so they're never tangled and always easy to get to.

if you don't already have power in there, look into a 12v deep cycle battery and a box (leave it outside, they vent noxious gas if you're sleeping in there). having lights (and a stereo) is amazing.

I think an RMA would be on the cards rather than the glue. Or theres always http://imgur.com/a/vyxZCpG

EDIT that wasnt overly helpful first off nightmare on busting it sorry for your loss, if you go down the DAS route this might help:


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EFPKMH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 pop socket for battery on DAS.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D4DZXW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1.5ins Dring

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CNWVKUQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (nice stuff, soft for loop around Dring)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JJPPNHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ( 2ins rather than 1 but worked well for main DAS mount, just cut it to rough shape stuck it on then went round on a cutting mat with a craft knife, feels super strong do not feel the need for wrapping more velro)

DAS
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/htc-vive-deluxe-audio-strap-99hamr002-00-vr-005-hc.html

Battery
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HBTY3Z2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x 90 Degree USB C Type C Male to Female Adapter, Right & Left 90 Degree USB-C 3.1 Type-C Male to Female Extension Adapter for Laptop & Tablet & Mobile Phone https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RP5LQQL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_orfoDbAKMKDWV

AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-C 2.0 Cable | 0.3 m, Dark Grey https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CWH4ZB9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ksfoDb38GDD61

Guide:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OculusQuest/comments/btbf0g/how_to_do_the_frankenquest_mod_vive_das_quest/

More pics http://imgur.com/a/SvsNS84

Good luck hope it gets fixed up.

I was in the same predicament. Picked up two sets of these, fashioned one high and one lower, then anchored it to the wall stud. Not super beautiful, but it gives me enough peace of mind and kind of blends in (lucky my speakers are black). I feel as though its a decent solution, however nothing is going to beat hard anchoring with metal hooks into the enclosure. Hope this helps! Would love to hear some other ideas as well!

I've been rolling with this bag for a few weeks now:

https://www.vikingbags.com/cruise-cordura-black-motorcycle-seat-luggage-1452-prd1.htm?

I've gotta say, it's pretty awesome. It is absolutely huge. When I get to work all of my gear is easily stored in there, with room to spare. Padded leather coat, chaps, helmet, gloves (gauntlets and standard), glasses,etc. Plus I always have a full change of clothes, 5 bottles of water, my jump box, rain gear, rain cover for the bag, and a ton of miscellaneous small items.

Loads of mounting options, including a strap that goes over a backrest if you want to mount on a luggage rack behind your sissy bar/seat back. I just strap mine on my back seat - no luggage rack or or anything. They have a strap system that goes under your seat. I didn't like the way the mounting system looked when I left it on the bike (every day) and took the bag inside with me so I just bought these straps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017902W8G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use 6 of those straps (cut to length) and just loop them around my struts. Works great, doesn't move in an inch and I use the backpad. Takes about 2 minutes to mount it, 1 to remove it, no permanent attachments or anything unsightly. Also works as a fantastic backrest. For ~$150, it's hard to beat.

I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.

I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:

speakers $42.70
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd90-8-3-1-2-aluminum-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--290-210

port tubes $5.14
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-1-3-8-id-adjustable--260-388

filter parts $17.19
http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-090mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-046
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-20-20-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-20

amp $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467991447&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+speaker+amp+board

battery $15
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468001600&sr=8-7&keywords=12v+sla+battery

battery charger $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LICD2TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATW4RRWB3JMSM

• handle $3
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ18WLK/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
  
  
• optional $11 voltmeter + USB charger ports
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LUL054Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A11A70Q280RHPK
  
  
• plus another ~$12 in other misc build materials
  
  After adding all that I ended up at about $130 per which is too high. How can I get that down?
  
  What if I used 1 driver per boombox instead of 2...do you think that would still sound decent or is it not going to get loud enough by itself?
  

Storing 2 bikes in a dorm

I can't install hooks or anything, so that's what I've come up with in lieu of buying one of those 'leaning' solutions which I don't have space for anyways. I used to store the MTB with the rear brake clamped, but that seemed more likely to cause issues.

The MTB I pull out less often, so it's back in a corner of the room. The single-speed is next to the door because I use it for commuting.

The bikes are pretty stable this way; I'd have to bump them pretty hard to get them to fall.

I use these straps, which have held up quite well.

There are a lot of great tips so far. At one time or another I have used most/all of them. However, if you aren't going to spring for the 4 poster bed, chances are good you don't have the green for the Sport Sheets. Besides, that's a lot of money for something you don't know you'll get a lot of use out of.

For a truly effective tie down with slightly more options then just the legs of the bed, especially if you don't have a bed frame, I recommend 4 Erickson Tie Straps Ratchet Strap, in conjunction with a few D-Rings. There are a couple nice things about this setup. Because the straps are flat, you loosen the rig and leave it on the mattress all the time, then just tighten it up when you want to use it. You can move the D rings around as long as the straps aren't tight with ease allowing you more range in hard points. And because the straps are locked together, where you put them is where they stay. Warning, bad MS Paint diagram Incoming.

Warning, you can very easily crush your box spring and bed with these things. They really don't need to be that tight to be effective. I've seen these things taco the bed of a pickup truck when over tightened.

http://imgur.com/DXwQyDC

http://imgur.com/VIlkxzw

Posting these if it's helpful to anyone! What the black pipe insulation looks like!

I dont remember what straps I have exactly, but they're something like this. The hooks are great. http://www.amazon.com/Highland-9418200-Reflective-Strap-Bungee/dp/B001IGGN0Q/ref=sr_1_24?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1419447501&sr=1-24&keywords=highland+strap

Those ducts look like they were masticed which is perfect. This was the product I was talking about: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

One side is sticky, but being out and exposed to the elements might take its toll.

My suggestion is this, I warn it will take some work but it will be very worth it, and not that expensive while yeilding the best r-value bang for buck:

Get some foam board adhesive: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-Adhesive-1421941/202020476

And get some sheets of foam board: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kingspan-Insulation-Common-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-Feet-R-10-Unfaced-Polystyrene-Foam-Board-Insulation/999972968

Your outside layer of foam board should be this: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foam-board-insulation/johns-manville-foil-faced-polyiso-foam-insulation-4-x-8/w-n5075/p-1444438921381.htm

To start you should verify 100% that those duct joints are masticed good, and I mean good, all the joints should be full of it and no holes, no pinholes even. if not get this: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Polymerics-Mastic-Sealant-0-50-Gallon/dp/B0085UZBE2

Once they are 100% sealed you can start. IF you want layers of foam board (more r-value the better) the best thing you can do is use an unfaced foam board for your layers. Your outer layer should be the foil faced foam board. To attach your foam board to your ducts use the duct adhesive, you MUST use this specifically, other adhesives can degrade and "eat away" the foam and eventually the adhesive will fail and it will fall off. Obviously you will need to cut the foam board to spec to fit on the ducting. USe the adhesive to attach it to the ductwork, foil face out. You will then want to cover the seams with silicon or foil faced duct work tape, not duck tape. IF you want additional security for them to hold and not fall off or fly off with wind you can use a metal band strap. or self tapping screws with large zinc washers

metal duct tape: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=speed+tape&qid=1551224134&s=gateway&sr=8-6

metal strapping: https://www.amazon.com/DIVERSITECH-710-001-Galvanized-Metallic-Strap/dp/B00CD6WON0/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-8

metal strapping tension locks: https://www.amazon.com/Tension-Triglides-Webbing-Strapping-Adjustor/dp/B01JG09244/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-17


self tapping screws (need to be long enough to go through foam AND the metal duct work): https://www.amazon.com/Self-Drilling-Plated-Finish-Undercut-Phillips/dp/B00GYK2S7I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3+inch+self+tapping+screws&qid=1551224214&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Now since its outside the air inside will eventually still change to the outside temperature, but not as fast and less bleed off of temperature in the ductwork due to outside ambient temperature making the ductwork sheathing the same temperature.

Hello, I ride a motorcycle and have a sheepskin on it. https://imgur.com/a/yIAB3QJ

Currently, I use two strands of paracord to keep it in place. However I wanted to modify it so that I could place two 1" straps similar to the one linked.

I've never done any form of leather craft before, but my understanding is that two simple rivets on each side would solve this. But while trying to find what I would need to rivit the leather, I can only find circular rivits, while I'm looking for something that's a 1 inch slit to allow a strap in, and not a string.

What would be the best way for a beginner such as myself to go about making this?

Duct Strap, Hanger Strap, Plumbers tape. It goes by many names, but roughly the same thing. You can get it in plastic or metal for pretty cheap. I always have a roll or two on hand.

It might be easiest to create the base using a sheet of 2mm foam. Cut foam rolls in half and adhere them the the base, shaping as needed. If you have access to worbla, cover the entire top of it with it. If you don’t have worbla, use more 2mm foam and a heat gun to shape it. These aren’t clear instructions but I hope it helps!


Foam Rolls

I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.

I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.

Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.

Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.

Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.

It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.

This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.

Source 1

Source 2

I have the first one, and have loved it (called the Forearm Forklift). The second piece that makes it attach to the shoulders looks awesome, and I just placed my order for it.

I would say it's as close to the vive w/ DAS as the quest could be comfort-wise, an immense improvement overall. The face cushion of the vive is more plush but that's the only difference IMO.

Links are in the description, but here they are as well:

• HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap - http://amzn.com/B06Y2GDXMC
  
• VELCRO Industrial Strength Strips: http://amzn.com/B0010HADEA
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (The ones I used, but you can find better): http://amzn.com/B074V2MFMC
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (Better ones): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0TTPL8
  
• 1.5 Inch D Ring: http://amzn.com/B076J5RVNW
  
  edit: added new velcro

Asked for advice regarding a car cover here a while back for my P7B (with spotlight). I was having trouble finding a car cover that was advertised to be long enough to fit my vic. Ended up going with this OxGord 2XL car cover for $75. It's big enough for the vic and the quality is also excellent for a sub $100 car cover. Only been using it for a little under a month, no issues yet. The cover only has 3 tie down points, two on the side and one in the front, so I had to add some extra straps, I will also link to those if anyone is interested.


OxGord 2XL car cover: https://www.oxgord.com/exterior-accessories/vehicle-covers/executive-car-cover-2xl.html
Straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017902W8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Now to address the "why are you wasting your time covering up a CV". Well I bought this and got it painted at Maaco. A few weeks later I was given a 2007 4Runner from my grandparents and am driving that instead of the CV (Still love the CV). I am saving the CV for my sister who can drive in two years, so to keeps this cheap maaco paint job in tact I am covering it up for her until then.

From another angle here: https://www.reddit.com/r/CrownVictoria/comments/bkf1sr/time_to_put_it_into_storage_for_a_bit/

With box goggles I've had better luck fitting all of my crap into a duffle style bag like this. I use some extra straps (something like this) if I'm going to be hiking in so I'm sure my copters don't fall off.

I’ve used the universal foam blocks like the Malone ones with good results. Very affordable and gets the job done. I would recommend you get some hood loops or this style to attach bow/stern lines or you could attach them to the hard top bolting location to allow a tie down to hold it to the roof.

Would they be better than these? I am usually wary about buying things that don't have reviews on Amazon. Is a ratchet strap better than the latching strap? Cost isn't really a concern as I plan to use these for future projects.

I made a pair for myself. It is fairly easy if you look at what a TRX system consists of. Really, all you need is:

1. Short piece of PVC pipe
   
   
2. I would say about 10' of 1" webbing Which can be found at REI or Sport Chalet depending on you local.
   
   
3. And some adjustable straps which can be found just about anywhere that sells tie downs.
   
   The tough part here is the handles. I cut the pvc in 6" segments, used a heat gun to soften the edges and then used a wine bottle to flair out the softened edges so they would not wear on the their straps. Unfortunately I do not have pictures to help explain this (hope it makes sense, let me know if you need more of an explanation). Beyond that it is just tying it up correctly. Here is a simplistic way of doing it. Don't buy a TRX system! It is so easy to replicate. Rings have their advantages for gymnastic exercises, but TRX systems allow for creative core and upper body exercises.

$33 for the load strap when you can just get these for $6.50

but i do love my organic chalk bucket.

Not complex at all. When I used this system I'd put a couple of these:
https://www.campmor.com/c/seattle-sports-14-inch-deluxe-kayak-replacement-blocks-pair-58613
on the boat - one in front and one in back - and bungie them to the boat. Then put the whole thing on the roof, and use two camstraps - https://www.amazon.com/CARTMAN-Lashing-Straps-600lbs-Carry/dp/B017902W8G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525876929&sr=8-3&keywords=cam+straps&dpID=51vBDO3xI0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch - to secure it to the roof. Note that without having side rails on your roof you'll have to open the doors and run the camstraps through the inside of the vehicle and back out the opposite door. If you want to feel REALLY secure, put a bow line from the front of the boat to somewhere on the underside of the front of the car, like the bottom of the bumper bracket.
If you're having trouble getting the boat on the roof, try putting a big towel on the roof hanging over the back of the car. Lean the kayak up against the towel, and use it to protect your car as you push it up onto the roof. Then stow the towel and get the camstraps attached.

My wife and I hauled two 14 foot kayaks from Ohio to Boundary Waters Canoe Area in Minnesota with no problems using this method.

Good luck.

Personal experience here -- the iPower 4 inch filter / inline fan combo didn't work very well at all for me. My entire garage smelled like herb.


What I have now, although was a bit more pricey:


Phresh 701005 Carbon Air Filter, 6 by 16-Inch, 400 CFM


Vortex 347 CFM S Line S-600 Fan, 6"


iPower 6 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting Dryer Vent Hose for HVAC Ventilation, 2 Clamps included


CARTMAN 1" x 12' Lashing Straps up to 600lbs, 6pk in Carry Bag


 


Here's how it looks:


Grow Tent

I just bought Ozark Straps, with quick release buckles. 4 pieces with a length of 2.5m each. Cost about 8$/€.

https://www.amazon.com/Ozark-Trail-TT-57-Xi-26-D-Quick-Release/dp/B01ATL97U8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ozark+strap&qid=1563061928&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I felt this was a much better deal than the 2 x sea to summit strap (1.5m). Its longer and more flexible.

Cant say anything about durability yet, but hey its 8€. Just read the reviews to form an opinion yourself.

I bought it to strap my backpack and eventually additional stuff on top of my rear rack.

Yeah it’s a 1”x12” Velcro strap like this

I’m using these on my mtb and gravel bikes and they work great. Cinch then tight and they don’t move. Hook And Loop Straps, Reusable Cinch Straps 1" x 12" Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753WH1SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HOX0BbMBX514V

I've got a tip for you on the NCG thing. My BiL and I prefer to go to the Marietta one due to cost and how close it is. We both have bigger upper bodies and so end up laying down because of those seats.

After a few experiments, we ended up getting these. We get there early enough and then just wrap them around the base of the armrests, behind the seat. Then we just tighten them to how far back we want the seat to go. It's made going there 10x better.

I used to use similar baskets on the rear rack of my commuting bike. I ignored the metal clips completely during installation and instead used some straps like these because I already had them laying around. I also added a small bungie cord near the bottom to prevent any movement down there. It held the basket on securely. Another option would be to use heavy duty zipties.

Meh, I bought some polyester tie down straps with aluminum buckles for about six bucks and I use a marlin spike knot to attach my carabiner. Simple, cheap, lightweight. Easy up and down. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PL4H0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YPCvxbAB283Y2

Get a lugguage strap, strap it tight and wrap the slack with electrical tape where it overlaps (more than one location to keep it from moving too much and rips it off by itself, sign your name on the tape with silver sharpie.

Edit: Here is one I recommend, as I realized a lot of these straps have clip locks

I really dislike the velcro straps and they'll wear out pretty quick.


Here's a link to the straps shown in the photos. There's enough here to go over 3 times: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NH4POY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Heres the straps that I'll be using to replace under the cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can move it myself and I am in no way in the running for a strong man competition. While a tad heavy, it's more awkward getting it through doors and around corners.

Parts List:

Yoga balls:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ4PXFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

pillow bearings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IWGLAM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


3/4 inch steek rod:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069AB2NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rail Clamping Guides:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07426SVYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Straps to anchor the trainer: (Way to long) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well if you do, I have found that ratchet straps were very secure and even the friction type straps like these are more than enough for lumber. I've tried to make the load shift and could not. I was a little surprised by that and really only use the ratchet type for plywood. Especially since the 4' wide sheets leave no extra bar to wrap a strap around. I actually pop the caps off the bar ends and stick the hooks right into the ends.

Thank you. I do move around quite a bit, and slide off the mat. I bought these straps on amazon, and just strap the 2 mats together, but it's extra weight:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V1WXY/ref=twister_B00LM09OTA

Here are the built-in straps I'm talking about, check out the last image picture on this page:

http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/sleeping-bags/three-season-sleeping-bags/antares-15-sleeping-bag/product

I use these to attach batteries and electronics to decks when I don't want to drill holes and I want to be able to swap fast. It works. Remember to fasten it so it does not slide to the top or back.

Yeah, zip-ties are a good call. They've come in handy in a pinch more than once. In the category of "things you didn't know you needed until you need them", I'll also some small metal-buckled straps like these. I've used them to haul wood, broken bikes, food, etc., more times that I can recall. Just an incredible handy little piece

Looks like some of THIS cut to length + some of THIS = What the guy in your picture is wearing.

Like these!

Simple straps, just with some buckles. They cinch down easily. Just have to tuck in the loose ends. Keep one or two packed in an upper pouch in case you've got to strap down a bed roll or something quickly.

here you go

You could get a Timbuk2 Spire and add some quick release straps to the outside

https://www.amazon.com/Ozark-Trail-xi-26-d-Utility-Quick-Release/dp/B01ATL97U8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502883647&sr=8-2&keywords=quick+release+strap

I don't have a suggestion for the bike mounted seats, but I've been pulling around my now 6 month old for 2-3 months with a Burley Honey Bee trailer. We rigged a set up involving 2 tie down straps (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/) and her car seat. Wrapped the straps around the aluminum frame and through the car seatbelt hooks on the car seat. Here's an image of the setup from RAGBRAI this last week http://imgur.com/a/tOpMM