(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best cable sleeves

Awww thank you for rescuing him!!! For sure keep him indoors as they are indoor animals indeed. :)

Let me try to help you...

Please refer a bunny care guide I keep here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_IvDuy5Fr-VOKwBVBSmZih0m1ATCIquIMhYyFl4aIw. I really tried to include all the info a new bunny parent might want into this guide... please do take a look as it will help a ton!

​

Diet:

This is an immediate need also and super important to have proper diet...

The proper diet for an adult bunny is - UNLIMITED hay, 1/4 cup MAX of plain pellets per day (not colorful bits or seed in them), 1 to 2 cups of green leafy veggies. Carrot, kale, and fruit only as occasional very small treats. No yogurt drops or processed sugars, seeds or nuts.

Hay and pellets should not be alfalfa. But hay is 90% of their diet - it keeps the GI system healthy and

Also provide water in bowl (not bottle) and always bottle or filtered, never tap due to calcium content.

________________

Go to the store and get some - timothy hay, some pelleted food - if you can find this one great, if not get another one just be sure it is plain (no colorful bits) and is not alfalfa (look at ingredients), and by some green veggies - romaine lettuce and some fresh herbs to start are good.

Feed 1/4 pellets per day, 1 to 2 cups of veggies, and unlimited timothy hay.

​

Housing and litter training: check out the housing section of my guide.

Keep in mind also that bunnies are crepuscular - meaning most active at night and early mornings as prey animals, so they are quite active often when humans sleep... so you want a bigger space than a cage for him even at night. Bunnies do need 4 by 4 ft of space at least at all times to be happy. :)

Get ether a puppy xpen like this (40 inches tall is best) or an XXL dog crate like this. Also, in the same store by a thick plastic tablecloth or a couple yoga mats and couple of cheap fleece blankets. You will lay the plastic/ rubber down in bunny room. On top spread a blanket. Then set the xpen on tops and anchor the edges outside the xpen. Now you have a safe space for him that is a good size and your floor is bunny proof until he is litter trained.

In the same store by a larger plastic cat litter box (just any plastic litter box like this) and Carefresh type of litter type of litter. This + hay is all you need to begin to litter train him. Set up the tray for him like in this video.

Lastly use any cardboard box you have to cut out one side and place into his xpen upside down to make a hidy house.

-->>> The end result will be something like this https://imgur.com/a/3n4WO84

​

Vet:

You should take him to a RABBIT SAVVY exotic animals specialist to get checked out.... need to make sure he is healthy, and also he needs to get neutered - it is critical for litter training, forming a solid trust bond with him and future health. Really please don't skip this - it is the best investment you can make into his life!

Here you can find a list of rabbit savvy vets by state:

https://rabbit.org/vet-listings/

http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Category:United_States

https://www.chewy.com/petcentral/directory-of-veterinarians-for-exotic-small-mammals

Also you can google rabbit rescues in your area and often they will have good bunny vet listings right on their website since they get asked a lot.

​

Some things to do and not to do:

1. Bunnies don't like to be picked up or held at all as prey animals! They are not cuddly lap animals, though they will come to you for pets once they trust you but it will take time and effort to build trust. Bunnies are very fragile and picking them incorrectly of chasing them will result in serious injury.
   
   1. To build a bond with your bunny you need to spend time on the floor at her level and always allow you to come to you when she feels safe, never chasing or picking up.
      
   2. Please avoid picking up and holding the bunny unless you must like for a vet trip.
      
   3. Do not chase him. Always let him come to you when he wants to on his own terms when he feels safe... If you chase him and pick him up he will develop very negative associations with you. He will think every time you are close he will get sprung into the air and chased and he will mostly hide and avoid you. You don't want that. :)
      
   4. Give him a hidy house - even a cardboard house and never chase him if he goes in there - this his safe spot.
      
   5. Also a stuffed animal cuddle buddy will help a lot!
      
      ​
      
      Bunny proofing:
      
      
2. For wires - which really are the most important thing to get done ASAP.
   
   
   1. Wire protectors that work well - these are quite chew proof and you just hide you cables inside - it makes things look nice and neat actually and you won't have another wire chewed.
      
   2. Also something like this is great if you can make it work in the space config you have... like along the baseboard or floor - I used these to hide my cords and make everything neat before a bun was ever in the picture even
      
   3. I have also seen people slit open a heavy duty garden hose and put the wires inside - works well
      
   4. Watch a few videos below for some more great tips - they are short and have good ideas for you
      
      
      1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbDQfIAVvY0
         
      2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1-GN3qErFc
         
      3. http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bunny-proofing
         
3. Now for your moldings and furniture you can also try something like this tape (but be very careful to be sure he does not chew it!)
   
   
   1. You can also try a homemade spray like in this video to make it unattractive to chew - just spray on wooden things he chews
      
4. For flooring I highly suggest this indoor/outdoor rug - it is easy to clean, inexpensive, and due to a tight weave hard to chew. A lot of bunny parents on here use it and love it. :)

Ok!

So it's a late 2018 (December) Ender 3 Pro. I got it from Mech Solutions. They have been super helpful with some warranty stuff. (Magnetic bed delaminated and heat break/throat tube was broken.) https://www.mechestore.com/collections/ender-3-pro

Galactic Empire gears here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3422334 (I remixed this one!)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3005278

The braided cable stuff is from Amazon, here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071WF5NTN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought three sizes, 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4". I hated the Pi camera cable, luckily it fits perfectly in the 1/2" stuff. I found uses for all three sizes in different locations. The 1/4" looks cool on the bowden tube. I used heat shrink (or electrical tape) at the ends.

Hotend cooler is Hero Me with a velocity stack (stack purely for my own entertainment)
Hero Me: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917 - I used the stock 4010 blower version in the end. I was going to do the dual 5015 mod but the two Amazon fans I got were both defective.
Fan is a Noctua 4020 - from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071W93333/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note - I added a 12v system running in parallel with the OEM 24v Ender system - more below
Velocity stack:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2211780

Someone spotted it, on the left I have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ running OctoPi (Octoprint):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BD3WHCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a 3.5" touchscreen TFT LCD:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07KLDKM5D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a Pi compatible camera:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0759GYR51/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with longer cables:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DNYM8KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The camera needed a mount:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886101
and an off-brand sleeve:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994762

The Pi needed a mount too, and I found one I love that just happened to fit the screen I bought:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2530258
** user note - this thing is massive, and tricky to print. Worth it, though.

OH. THIS IS A MUST:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2943218 xD

All metal extruder, conveniently in red, from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JVJWC5B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note: if nothing else, do this upgrade. This, and the one just above it. Mine was under extruding, and I poured hours into trying to calibrate/test/bla bla bla... it ended up being a broken heat break and crappy plastic extruder.

Filament guide (top rail)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003807
At extruder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303562

Z-Axis bar cable management:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2761965
** user note: this is one of my favorites!!!!! I covered it in LEDs, white for the bed, and red for the wall/bowden tube!

Ok, so, something that made getting good fans difficult is the Ender 3 uses 24v fans (except the power suppy, it uses a 12v fan. Bonus.)
To get some 12v power, I used a buck converter to step 24v down to 12v from here:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FQH4M82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and basically I run all the fun stuff off it.
JST and XT60 connectors are all from www.hobbyking.com. Same with 22AWG three wire servo wire, super handy. I already had this stuff kicking around, but hobbyking is good if you need this stuff.
The PSU has some open ports, I added another XT60 cable with 24v service. I made it the same as the OEM, and they are backwards compatible and nothing will fry. One of them goes to my buck converter, the other to the Ender main board.
** tech note: I used a 3.5A BEC from hobbyking to power the Pi, off the 12v side of the buck converter. I ended up cutting the power supply cable that came with the Pi (and added JST connectors to the whole thing so I could reuse it one day.) The BEC steps the voltage down to 5.1v from 12v. 3.5A has been plenty. I think it might use .8A with my giant RGB keyboard plugged into it.

This is super worth it, a must do. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8

Oh, the nice little platform the buck converter and Pi cooling fan is sitting on is this thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2539545

more below: (above?)

You can run wiring through the rubber grommets behind the steering column and near the fuse box in the glove box area. http://www.fordfiesta.org/forum/threads/378-Fiesta-ST-subwoofer-wiring-project

I personally ran my wiring underneath the Fiesta, as I was using 0 gauge wiring which is quite thick to run through the firewall without drilling. Power wire with an inline fuse from the battery goes underneath the car to the trunk. There is a nice cover on the bottom of the car and you can run it next to the brake lines. I also wrapped the wire in abrasive resistant wire sheath. The trunk has a very convenient rubber gasket that you can feed the wire through, it keeps it waterproof.

For the signal wire I spliced into the two rear speakers and then ran those wires back to the trunk. There is a channel on the edge of the doors to run the wire, just pull up the rubber. In order to get to the speaker wire you can pop off the plastic cover on the middle column. I only pulled it out a few inches and was able to splice into the wires. The splice speaker wires will be converted to RCA which will then be fed to the amp. Just make sure your amplifier has proper filters.

Power wire to battery with inline fuse.

Notice wire sheathing for protection.

Bringing the power wire into the trunk - there is already a rubber grommet that can be used.

Braided wire sleeves on Amazon (get the right size depending on what wire gauge you use).

Kick panel channels under the weather stripping and pulling out the plastic cover to expose the rear speaker wiring.

My wiring setup.

Shit diagram of the wiring setup.

Bass controller in the glove box.

Sub.

Fiesta ST speaker wire color codes:

• Fiesta ST Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
  
• Fiesta ST Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown
  
• Fiesta ST Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet
  
• Fiesta ST Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange
  
• Fiesta ST Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
  
• Fiesta ST Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow
  
• Fiesta ST Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
  
• Fiesta ST Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

It's all about personal preference as to what you want to use, but I used Velcro cable ties, cable sleeves, and sticky cable clamps for both my battlestation and my TV/console station. I bought these in particular and they do just the trick for me at very low cost.

Ties: VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l3bJBbHE1JZZS

Sleeves: 20" Cable Management Sleeve with Free Zip Ties https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR6QQLR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clamps: eBoot Adjustable Cable Clips Adhesive Nylon Wire Clamps, Black, 50 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYO307S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J3bJBbRA9GWRQ

Stick some clamps behind your desk and down the edges of the desk legs to run the wires and cords along them. Just be warned that the residue may stick and might peel off paint or wood, so take caution if you want to tear them off. I'm sure you can find better ones that don't potentially damage your desk, but with proper removal care, you should be fine.

I like the velcro straps because they can easily be adjusted, removed, and reused. They're also versatile for any other random cables you want to store.

Locking her in the bathroom is only going to teach her that you will sometimes lock her in a bathroom for no reason, and she will trust you less. I guarantee she will have no idea that it's a punishment for going in your studio.

Anyway, lots of things here.

• 1.) You need to address why she's doing it. Even if you solve the studio equation, the behavior could come out elsewhere. Cats, like all animals, including people, have a number of simple, innate, but wildly strong needs. If you want to keep them happy so they don't fuck shit up, you need to satisfy those needs. Google that and figure it out, but at the very least I'm guessing she needs more things to chew on - feed her dental treats, get her some cat grass, find her toys that she will chew on etc. Also consider getting one of the "calming diffusers" so she's more chill overall.
  
  Decide if you are going to keep the door closed or not. If you can't trust yourself to keep it closed at all times,
  
  
• 2.) get a can of compressed air and put it somewhere convenient to reach when you catch her in the room. DO NOT SPRAY IT IN HER FACE - this can freeze their eyes/nose etc and cause serious injury, so make sure you spray it from at least a few feet away. The sound to them is like you are hissing at them, and trust me they do not like it. After a few times, they will probably run as soon as they hear you pick up the can, and you don't even have to spray it.
  
  
• 3.) Get some of this and spray it all around the doorway and floor inside and outside the doorway.
  
  https://www.petsmart.com/cat/cleaning-and-repellents/repellants/natures-miracle-just-for-cats-pet-block-cat-repellent-spray-13562.html?cgid=200111
  
  
• 4.) Consider a baby/pet gate that is tall enough she can't jump over and slats too narrow to squeeze through. They make them for a reason. If nothing else it will force you to think about keeping the door closed.
  
  
• 5.) If you're still worried, get the curly plastic cable wraps designed to protect cables, like this:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Spiral-Cable-Wrap-Length-Color/dp/B016045OY6
  

I don't know your budget for stands but I recently got the Pangea ls300 From Amazon for $100. Very good stands.

I got the 32 inch and it's perfect for my ls50.


Quick edit.

Get this also to wrap your cables.


New Design PREMIUM 120" Cable Management Sleeve with Free Zip Ties, Best Cords Organizer Wire Hider Protector for Desk TV PC Home Theater, DIY Adjustable Black - White Neoprene Cord Sleeves https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MR6QQLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9OhwCbVFVJ32N

Heres a good budget headphone option.

https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIA7NT5JX7120

Here's a mic, any mic will do as long as it's detachable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002EQ6E9E/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FKTC7528BMW6EMA91NB1&dpPl=1&dpID=71jX0sibQ1L

And here's and audio and microphone splitter. Make sure the splitter you end up getting has a dedicated audio and dedicated microphone input.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501544553&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=audio+and+mic+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41ifj0%2BHelL&ref=plSrch


This is the braided cable and heatshrink. The cable to manage the separate cables, also you can personalized the color, and it looks cool honestly. There's also some heatshrink it just seals the end of cable sleeves.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UHJCFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501544947&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=braided+cable+sleeves&dpPl=1&dpID=41B4XLeDZpL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NI3LOQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501545009&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=heatshrink%2B3%2F4inch&dpPl=1&dpID=41wA38KfTAL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1


And finally here's a video on what you'll be doing with the above cable and heatshrink.

https://youtu.be/xWR4yYGd3u4

One last remark, the price of all this starts at around $30 dollars or so. The rest of the price is up to you on what headphones you end up choosing.

Visit r/Headphones for recommendations and an idea of what makes good headphones...good.

I asked a question a couple of months ago about the Google adaptor's durability and mostly got ignored, but one fine user recommended these wire protectors that I think should help protect the cable. I wrapped these around my EarPods and they do a good job protecting them in all kinds of weather, and from wear-and-tear.

I also use a phone without a headphone jack for music consumption, and the included LeTV USB-C adaptor is quite shitty. I was afraid it would break, plus music would stop playing through the headphones after a while, and I had to reboot to get the phone to recognize the adaptor again.

I stopped using it and bought a couple of braided USB-C 3.5mm braided adaptors off Aliexpress for $2 to $3. They work great and are quite long (this can be a nuisance). I pull at the adaptor all day long and it's still holding together. Haven't had a single issue yet, and I listen to music while walking when it's super cold outside.

However these types of adaptors are not compatible with the Pixel 2 since they don't have a DAC.

I got some mesh sleeve from Amazon (something like https://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-25BK25-General-Purpose-Braided/dp/B004UHJCFI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483208770&sr=8-3&keywords=sleeve+cable ) and actually I really recommend it for the original 3-in-one cable. I electrical taped the edges instead of sugru and it's worked great. Biggest bonus is that it seems to get tangled and wound up less, stores much easier, protects the cable. I haven't noticed any stiffness problem.

Congrats on a new desk and overall great setup, but here are a few quick thoughts.

• Build/get a raised laptop stand. Never used this one but something like this. It will give you space under it as well as raise the "monitor" of the laptop to a higher level to help even it out with the actual monitor.
  
  
• Maybe sleeve your cables together so they are neater.
  
  
• Are two lamps needed?
  
  

There are cord protectors out there. You can find them at a home improvement store or on amazon.
I got a bunch because I have bunnies and it's super common to "bunny proof" your house. Works for dogs/cats/and curious parrots too. They make prettier ones too...(https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Electric-Protect-Rabbits-Diameter/dp/B07L86SJNJ/ref=pd_sbs_199_t_0/139-7801524-5489905?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07L86SJNJ&pd_rd_r=7c4d8736-481b-4d23-bceb-26bccc4628dd&pd_rd_w=j8Ez0&pd_rd_wg=TtMtb&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=2C5WQEH51WJDZ4RKPZGA&psc=1&refRID=2C5WQEH51WJDZ4RKPZGA)

To help avoid that cable getting twisted up I got this...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071WF5NTN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I also have the ceiling suspension setup. The above cable sleeve really does help to keep the cable from getting too twisted up, specially with suspension setup. The sleeving is a bit stiff but set it up right and it shouldn't be too much of a hassle.

Keep that cable safe as I'm sure you're aware of, they're near impossible to get at a reasonable price.

Welcome to the club.

I share this to everyone just due to how much of a difference it makes as cable camo. Give it a shot to make this setup the most beautiful minimal setup👌🏻

Kootek Cable Sleeve

Here

Pretty slick. Took me a second to figure it out, but it was super easy after that

Album Link

This is the Velka 3 v1.1 in Grey

---
This is my very first SFFPC build. I am coming a Fractal Design Nano S. This Velka 3 is Tiny! I did some small amount of basic modding to make it look like I wanted it. I replaced the 16mm Anti-Vandal switch that came with it for one that has an led for power. I wrapped the psu cables in an automotive cloth wiring harness tape so you couldn't see the bright psu cables from the original. I taped over the Velkase Fans to hide the colors of the stickers and cables as well. I also used the small quadcopter antennas.

---

Specs:

| Part | Price | Purchased at |
|:-----------|------------:|:------------:|
| Ryzen 5 1600| $65| hardwareswap
| MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC | $130| Amazon
| 8GB x 2 Crucial Ballistix Sport 3000MHz | $66| Amazon
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC 6GB | $110| hardwareswap
| FSP 400w Flex ATX PSU | $90| Amazon
| Reeven Vanxie 34mm Tall | $20| Newegg
| Samsung EVO 970 250GB| ($70 otherwise)| Previous Build
| Velka 3 Grey| $80| Velkase
| 2 x VF-8010-PWM 80mm x 10mm| $20| Velkase
| Velkase-LiHeat 300mm Riser | $40| Velkase

---

Notes

Replacement Power Switch

• For the Replacement LED I chose this one from Amazon in White color. I snagged this to create the harness. Using Shrink tube and Cable Sleeving and some solder to attach it to the switch.
  
  
• For those of you interested in the space that the PSU has heres a close up with how close it to the power switch.
  
  

  CPU Cooler
  

• I chose this cooler just to try. This was way before the Black Noctua NH-L9 Released. I replaced the fan with a Velkase fan because its all black and has the same dimensions and also has a higher RPM. So far the temps have been good. My CPU isn't stressed while gaming (1080p 60hz). I think I turned on game mode in the bios and the CPU is at 3.4Ghz on all cores. The cooler is rated for 65W TDP.
  
  

  Case Fans
  

• For those interested in the 80mm x 10mm clearance heres a photo of close they come with the motherboard
  
  

  Velka 3 Sidenotes
  

• So just a small side note the case came with plenty of M3 Screws BUT I noticed that some are different styles. There are two types. Ones that are longer, and have a smaller phillips socket. And ones that are shorter and a larger phillips socket. The shorter ones actually are shallower and they don't protrude on the sides of the case as much. I used these for the exterior panels. The longer ones I used for mounting all the internals as they had more "bite" to hold everything together
  
• It also came with a prototype of the pico psu blanking plate for the PSU. Response from Michael on this exactly "the PSU cover is just an experimental part with limited use, so it is not mentioned anywhere. If the direct plug in HDPLEX 200 (not yet tested) physically fits into the case, then the PSU cover can be used with it. A PicoPSU from MiniBox can be used as well, but only if you correctly drill two small holes around the smaller circular opening in the plate."
  
• One thing I want to point out is with my particular case it had a blemish on the side panel. Not sure why but its noticeable when looked at closely. There's one on both sides in the same spot but this on is the most noticeable and more noticeable in person

I use something like this for cords. New Design PREMIUM 63'' Cable Management Sleeve, Best Cords Organizer System for TV Computer Office Home Entertainment, DIY Adjustable Black - White Cord Sleeves Wire Cover Concealer Wrap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DDIMMLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nKmVDbC2S39P5

I love the color scheme and wall pc. You should check out this neoprene cable sleeving I use to neatly bundle all the cables together:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJVVCWN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3VBwDbSMPV19Q

I bought this long roll so I could cut a couple sections for different things. Like cables going to monitor vs power strip etc

They would pull the whole sleeve, but they could chew on them more safely. You can secure the sleeves to the floor or wall though, which you couldn't do with wires. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Management-Sleeve-Expandable-Electronics/dp/B06Y5QFTWX

Binding your cables together into one sleeve would help, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DDIMMLA/ref=zg_bs_6577542011_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GFV86FB7TW2384G10EW8

Also recommended: hang your power brick onto your desk. You could use something like the ikea signum as suggested before, or simply use double sided tape.

I got some of this stuff. Looks great, easy to install, and, most importantly, protects my cables from rubbing. I was seeing some wearing on my unprotected E3D v6 heater cartridge cables. Wrapped everything from the hotend in this stuff and it's much nicer looking and safer.

Granted, it doesn't supply any support, but that's not what I was looking for. Additionally, I did not put the bowden tube in the protector.

Yea it's really easier than I thought it would be. It was just something like this, except I got mine from target. I'd recommend this sleeve though because mine is fraying easily. You just cut to length with scissors, and it Velcros together.

Also, I used this

Looks great. I would recommend a cable management sleeve like thisfor everything left of the computer. They're cheap on amazon and you can find some that are white on one side and black in the other.

You can reroute the bed wiring without having to do any soldering (I did mine a few weeks ago solderless). You just have to remove the wires from the plug head to get them to fit while pushing them up through the hole in the build plate assembly (https://youtu.be/4SjA5n-8S20?t=219)

This video does a good job showing what's needed. I ordered the following cable braiding to use on mine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WF5K2X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and you'll have plenty left over.

Just make sure you mark on the plastic plug which slot the black wire goes in, and which the red goes in, so you don't get them backwards when putting them back into the plug

One potential solution is to get something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-25BK25-General-Purpose-Braided/dp/B004UHJCFI
It expands like a Chinese finger trap so you can fit the micro USB plug through, is cuttable to size, and will both cover the white cord in black, but also protect it in a more durable wrapper.

not sure of your layout here - do you use the full-width of the desk or do you normally stack the machines on top of each other?

That cable wrap stuff I used many years ago as a desktop repair technician. We had a very wide bench area (about 15') and an 8 port KVM. Used the cable wrap to tidy the cables, each port with a different color wrap and a sticky label at the end so i knew which KVM port it was attached to.

If you normally stack your machines on top of each other i got nothing. Velcro goes a long way. I was thinking maybe a "PVC Tree" of sorts.

Edit:

Better idea if you stack your desktops.Use horizontal wire management duct and mount to your wall, vertically. Have X sets of cables come out of left and X sets of cables out of right. Velcro to clean up.

Genuinely curious here, is there a benefit using paracord over something like the wire sheathing commonly found in case modded pcs?

https://www.amazon.com/25ft-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving-BlackRed/dp/B071WF5K2X

It's not a sweatshirt sleeve though that's a pretty darn good alternative. It's this product from Amazon - Kootek 59 Inch Velcro Cable Management Neoprene Cord Cover Sleeve

dat rat's nest, wow. looks like you could use some cable braided sleeving.

I ordered these. It's a very, very long sleeve that wraps around cords and holds together with velcro along the seam, so it's adjustable, and also comes with little velcro ties to secure it, as well. I've seen my own cat bite down on the bundle, and he couldn't get through.

edited to add: I also have a cordless mouse, and definitely suggest one for you, too.

I ran a cable management sleeve down the back of my computer to clean up the cables a bit. It makes the mess of wires look more like one thick cable ^ladies

I would totally recommend mounting your monitor if it is vesa compatible

My first thought is cable wraps like this or this. It won't necessarily stop her from chewing on it, but it'll keep her from chewing through it. If you're lucky she won't like the texture of the wrap and will leave it alone.

You can also attack the problem from the other end by getting the kitty more things to do/investigate/climb on/chew on. There are dedicated cat chew toys, or since you know she likes this particular cable you could leave it out (unplugged!) where she can get at it easily. Just watch that she's not chewing off pieces of plastic and swallowing them.

I’d reinforce them with something like this: Rancco Cable Protector/Wire Repair/Pet Cord Protector/Headphone Saver, 8 Pc Spiral Cable Cover Wrap Strain Relief Tube Charger Cord Sleeve for Phone Mac Charging Cable, USB Date Cable, Earphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCRM16T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vUsKDb22CQQX3

You might want to take a look at this, http://www.amazon.com/AGPtEK-Neoprene-Adjustable-Management-Entertainment/dp/B017XDM2D4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I have not tried it on the cord between the headset and the breakout box but I do have it on the wires between the PC and the breakout box and it worked out really nicely. It is made out of neoprene foam and should give you a little bit of a cushion between the floor and the wire.

Get a bar of common Ivory Soap and drag it over the baseboards. Rabbits dislike its taste and if applied well it is essentially invisible and lasts for a long time. You might try this experimentally, at first, coating just some of the baseboards and leaving others unaltered to see if there is a difference.

For cords, I'd recommend something like:

D-Line Cable Tube | Cord Management sleeve | Ideal to hide cables, cords and wires from TVs, AV Equipment and Computer Equipment | 3' 7", 1⅓" diameter – Black

Get yourself an Ikea Signum and a velcro cable sleeve.

Place your power strip in the cable tray so there's only one power cable running from your desk to the wall. Use the cable sleeve to run all your cables in a single bundle from one point to the other. My wife's desk looked exactly like this before I bought the stuff linked above. Here's a pic of what it looks like now!

I actually just found this from someone else's setup. It's the mesh I like that come with PSU cabling. I'll try and clean it up with this http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Clean-Cut-Sleeving-Black/dp/B0008JIQ18/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344778958&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=cableflex+sleeve

OP beautiful job!; get this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQSMVFN for cable managing those chords on the floor.

Hey /u/OrangeDitt Under the desk where you have the power strip you should make use of one of these [Link 1 below] (or make one similar). It is a Cable Management Box that lets you hide the power strip and also neatly bundle and hide away the extra cable lengths. Then bundle the rest of the cable together and put it in one of these cable sheaths cut to length [Link 2 below]. That way the cables stay clean of dust, and look good if anyone wants to pop their head under the desk.


Link 1:

http://www.amazon.com/Bluelounge-CableBox-Black-Management-inches/dp/B0019T0JA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426090771&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+management+box


Link 2:

http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Clean-Sleeving-feet-Black/dp/B0008JIQ18/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426090927&sr=8-3&keywords=cable+sheath

Edit: Corrected Link 2

Ok, I guess I'll give away my secret.

I use this braided cable cover, which gives the wire a bit more stiffness, so it doesn't tangle as easily. :)

https://www.amazon.com/InstallerParts-100Ft-Expandable-Braided-Diameter/dp/B01DEX449C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482972991&sr=8-1&keywords=braided+cable+covers

I would use a length of that plastic wire wrapping stuff. If you use the kind that looks like a coil, you could slightly stretch it and attach the ends to the bolts on either end of the exposed section. This way, you'll be able to adjust it and it would just expand and contract with the length of exposed thread.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Outside-Polyethylene-Spiral-Desktop-Manage/dp/B008DFWR0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492115037&sr=8-1&keywords=spiral+wire+wrap

You can also use something like this to encase the wires Techflex Amazon link

Marine environments are tough, especially salt water. I did A/V automation for over a decade and always wanted to do a boat. I wanted to do a plane and an r/V also, but none of the opportunities presented themselves.

I always use velcro, but I don't really know how it handles the vibrations from a couple of engines and slapping against waves. Instead of using so many zip ties, you could use some cable snakeskin ( https://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-25BK25-General-Purpose-Braided/dp/B004UHJCFI ) and then just ziptie every foot or 18" it might give you a cleaner look while still giving you the permanence of zipties

Thanks, here's the link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WF5K2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Our event group uses multiple regular patch cables run through a cable sleeve (like this (first google hit as an example): https://www.amazon.com/Techflex-CCP1-00BK25-1-Inch-Braided-Sleeve/dp/B004SQYTG8 ) secured with zip ties. On the ends you can either install RJ45 female modules (loose or in a suitable box) or then just regular male connectors depending on the use.

I use this type of cord protector from amazon!

Cacovedo 30 ft Dog Cat Cord Protector Electric Wires Covers Wire Loom Tubing Protect Wires from Rabbits, Cats and Other Pets- Outer diameter 1/2 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L86SJNJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SSU3DbHXETSHA

I'd suggest something like this instead of zipties. Less likely to pinch the wires and cause breakage. Might be prone to picking up dust though.

Use a thick plastic spiral cable wrap, something like this amazon.com/Outside-Polyethylene-Spiral-Desktop-Manage/dp/B008DFWR0A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498658133&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+wrap

Something like this, http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-CCP1-00BK25-1-Inch-Braided-Sleeve/dp/B004SQYTG8

I want to add some sort of cable wrap. What do you guys and gals think of these options?:

14mm Outside Dia 17 Ft Polyethylene Spiral Wire Wrap Desktop PC Manage Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DFWR0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iD9WzbFQK8NYX

Cable Management Sleeve | Adjustable 80” Black & White Cable Organizer Made From Premium Quality Flexible Neoprene | Baltic Living Cord Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018K8UGKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5D9WzbN71FWV3

Techflex PTN0.50BK25 Flexo PET General Purpose 1/2-inch Braided Cable Sleeve, Black - 25 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UHQNUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JE9Wzb2KK8M17

for grips, Mamut

https://www.mamutvr.com/products/mamut-touch-grip

​

There are no lens replacements. Unless you wear glasses there's really no need for lens covers. And if you do wear glasses, get glasses inserts from widmovr.com or similar places that make Rx lens inserts.

​

Protect your tether cable with a woven cable sleeve like this. If that tether gets broken it's going to cost you upwards of $150 off ebay to get a replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WF5K2X/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_wNf3Db4NPHBH5

​

If you're planning on playing a lot of PvP shooters get a rifle stock

https://virtualriflesystems.com/

​

If youre going to play standing up for long durations, get some foam floor tile pieces to pad your play area. Also handy to build a buffer of off-mat 'imminent crash boundary' .

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Everyday-Essentials-1-2-Thick-Flooring-Puzzle-Exercise-Mat-with-High-Quality-EVA-Foam-Interlocking-Tiles-6-Piece-24-Sq-Ft-Multiple-Colors/336366651

Try buying one of these for your new headset.

I have mine hanging overhead so this isn’t an issue but my cat went through a few 3.5mm cables before I moved it out of reach.

I think these are them.

25ft - 1/4 inch Flexo PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – BlackRed – Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WF5K2X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lwzzCbQD668ER

I use spiral cable wrap. It comes in various diameters and can be removed and reused.

This is what I used: 25ft-1/4" Flexo PET Expandable Braided Sleeving -Blackred -Alex Tech braided cable sleeve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WF5K2X?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I use this Floerns Women's Ruffle One... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCRM16T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

To make it completely not noticeable while also making things even tidier, you could even move the joint to the middle of the wires, and then wrap the full length of all three motor wires in a braided cable sleeve (like this stuff).

Add a small ring of heatshrink on either end of the braided sleeve to hold it in place, and voila! Your joints are hidden under the braided cover, and you've also streamlined all three wires into one tidy bundle.

Try this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WF5K2X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Ik3hDbCKDS05J

Cable ties have sharp edges.

Use this:

Techflex PTN0.25BK25 Flexo PET General Purpose 1/4-inch Braided Cable Sleeve, Black - 25 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UHJCFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M.zoybYN5FAYS

Can't make it for you, but here's what you need minus a soldering iron:

https://www.amazon.com/CESS-303-3-5mm-Adapter-Cables-Connectors/dp/B01G0NF9CY

https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B00TG1TRL2

https://www.amazon.com/25ft-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving-BlackRed/dp/B071WF5K2X

https://www.amazon.com/130-pcs-Adhesive-Assortment-MILAPEAK/dp/B075NBCDPQ/

I use this for my rift cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Organizer-Management-chengsi-NBXG0061-hei316/dp/B01N6IVHR3/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1541420945&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cable+tube&dpPl=1&dpID=51d63ZV4IOL&ref=plSrch

It also protects it from damage while stepping on it and pc chair roll

The velcro ties work nicely; you can also use the spiral plastic cable management stuff or the cable management tube that has a lengthwise split.

The spiral stuff is more of a pain.

Now I want something like this! A bit of searching reveals cable sleeves meant for TVs and computers (here) but could be cut down to length and folded into a backpack or laptop case, this round thing that might work for multiple cables but isn't the most attractive, or the somewhat bulky hard plastic ones meant for extension cords. The cleanest DIY I can think of would be a pencil case or similar small carrying case (I thought of this small one I own) with a hole carefully cut in one side and the other ends coming through the zipper, or possibly something with a zipper around 3 sides and poking the zipper apart at the end farthest from the zipper tab (if that makes sense). Sorry I'm here late, I'm browsing the sub and didn't realize how far back I was!

> The Folger Tech 2020 looks solid and does have dual z-motors, but it's a fair bit smaller than the Tevo (as I'm looking at getting the expanded bed), I've seen a few complaints about the hotend, and based on unboxing and assembly videos, it doesn't seem as user friendly to assemble.

So I have a Folgertech 2020 i3, and went through some struggles (mostly self-caused) with it. Overall I still highly recommend this kit because it's an amazing starting point for how much it costs. Even blowing up all the electronics on it, I'm still under $350 into this thing.

Assembly is a bit more difficult than other printers because it's completely made of lengths of aluminum T-slot extrusion. Aside from parts like the X-carriage and some L-brackets, there aren't really any obvious "this can only be assembled one way" parts. This is seriously overwhelming at first, but once it's together it means that the printer is extremely easy to modify since you can attach things anywhere.

The frame is sturdy as hell, as you would expect for being a bunch of aluminum bolted and braced together. You can pick the thing up by the bar that goes across the top, and nothing wobbles. The 8x8x6 build area is pretty standard, but with just a spacer on the Z-motors you can add another inch or so, and you can add lots of Z-height if you just replace 2 sections of aluminum extrusion and grab longer chrome rod and allthread.

Cable management is a bit of a nightmare (it will be with most reprap printers), and I highly recommend picking up some cable sleeving to at least keep all the multi-wire stepper and endstop cables together.


Rundown of my issues with it

• The set screw in the extruder was not tightened onto the flat of the stepper motor, and instead on the round shaft, allowing it to slip. Trivial fix, but something I didn't think to check since the extruder came assembled in the box.
  
  
• The Power supply had a floating ground, meaning the negative rail was not actually connected to the ground going into the wall. The power supply I replaced it with was the same way. Easy fix, add a jumper wire between AC ground and one of the negative rail terminals
  
  
• Because of the floating ground, there was a difference between the USB ground on my computer and the printer's ground, which caused a spark when I plugged in the USB. This may have actually damaged the internal power supply on my laptop's motherboard. I also killed a ramps board and two Arduino Mega's during troubleshooting.
  
  
• The power supply eventually shit the bed on me, likely due to being damaged by the short to ground through the USB of my computer.
  
  All electrical issues would have likely been avoided if I had just put the jumper wire between the negative rail and ground from the start
  
  I've replaced the power supply ($17 off amazon, because I broke the old one). I replaced the Ramps board (since the original one failed somewhere and kills the voltage regulators on arduino's) and one of the stepper drivers that went bad (it came with and extra one). The arduinos are repairable, just need to replace the voltage regulator (bought a 15 pack of them for like $7 on amazon)
  
  Configuring the firmware really wasn't a big deal. You download the Marlin firmware, load it on the arduino, and follow the instructions to set up Repetier-Host. Setting it up in a Linux environment is a bit more of a pain, since the default Marlin baudrate is non-standard and not supported by PySerial out of the box - I fiddled with it for a while, honestly just change it to anything else and save yourself the headache.
  
  With any kit, you're going to have similar setup and configuration (aside from the breaking things and letting the smoke out).
  
  Upgrades:
  
  I didn't bother with the out of the box spool mount, and printed this spool mount instead. The rollers use skateboard bearings, and the spool just sits up on top with almost no rolling resistance, and the extruder pulls filament off as it needs it.
  
  I also added this nozzle cooling duct. It works great.
  
  The printed endstop mounts will break if you tighten them too much. Print some new ones and spares ahead of time.