(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best cat supplies

Hair and grooming:

Bunnies need regular brushing to help them with shedding fur. Unlike cats they cannot throw up hairballs and if those do form, they will create a block in their digestive system which is very dangerous. You need to brush several times a week regularly and when shedding heavily every single day.

Sometimes it can be hard to get those silky fine bun hairs. There very best brush I found is this one - it gets all that loose hair out due to the rubber band and might help you a bit https://www.amazon.com/Small-Pet-Select-HairBuster-Comb/dp/B06ZZXF81G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1545077601&sr=8-2&keywords=furbuster. This brush it worth the cost and will last forever and most buns don't hate it and it's certainly cheaper than ER bills.

A lint roller can also help in between brushing like here https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/cpl8ee/our_brioche_is_oddly_obsessed_with_getting_lint/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUdq_UhMQAQ - very informative video on brushing

https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/b3cctl/sesame_getting_brushed_as_requested/ - someone on this forum

So what you have to do is not just bush but have a long relaxing petting session to start with. Start by just petting and getting him relaxed. Handfeed a little favorite green. Once he is relaxed try to brush. As you start, keep one hand firmly on his back slightly pushing him down, that usually makes them feel safe and relaxed. Then brush with firm but gently strokes and always with the direction of the fur growth (never against it) after a few strokes as he feels more relaxed you might be able to take the hand away and just prop him up and keep brushing.

Also try to establish a clear reward mechanism - for example show the bunny two blueberries. Give one right away and the other right after you are done. Over a couple times this will build more positive associations with brushing as a reward will be expected.

Also you can get some silicone brushing gloves that you can start the petting session with before yo move on to the brushing.... it will help him associate the brushing more with being pet, and actually will help you get some hair off before you even use a brush. It's great for just everyday maintenance.

THIS WILL HELP WITH HAIR!

​

Litter training:

You have a good set up it seems. I think what you are missing is diligent POSITIVE reinforcement. Try the tips below they work - not like magic but overtime they help.

The key is to reinforce diligently! Bunnies are very food motivated so use that to you advantage... Use positive reinforcement to build a clear association that using the litter box leads to good things. Remind her that a litter box is a good thing by giving a tiny treat every time you see her use it for a while - a treat can be a pellet, a small pice of favorite green, etc. If you are ever there and see her get ready to go (her tail kind of lifts up like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym7-BBY4ep4) scoop her up gently and put in the litter box. If you see her make one poop, as soon as you see it place her right in the box so the rest she does in there. Once she goes give that little treat as a reward. This reinforcement if done consistently over time will really help (though spaying is still a must). Place any poops you find back into her litter box together with the bunny to reinforce and if she pees outside use a napkin to blot it and again place back into the litter box

Lastly be sure you clean the spot she pees outside her litter box each time wit white vinegar to remove the scent of her pee so that she doesn't keep coming back to the spot.

​

Bonding:

To bond with them, spend on the floor with them. They don't hate you but the only way they can get to know you and trust you is if your rally get down on the floor at their level. Do this as much as you can - try eating dinner on the floor with them while they eat also.. I find it works really well.

The right approach is simple - get down on the FLOOR at their level! Cuddles and bonding is really best done on the ground at her level where you feel safe to him. Try to dedicate more time to him on the floor at his level - make him feel safe and like your respect what he likes and doesn't.

What works best with bunnies is always always letting them come to you instead of you going to them... silly as it is, that is what makes them feel most secure around anyone who is trying to bond with them. The best way to encourage them to do this is another silly thing - get on the floor. Literally just sprawl out and do your own thing and wait for her to come and explore you (I promise she will if you are patient). On the floor you are on his own level and you feel both safe and curious for them explore.

I would honestly suggest trying to really focus for the next few week on spending lots of time on the floor with him when you are home and let him out to explore so she can choose to come to you himself. Watch TV on the floor and lean against the sofa for comfort or even when you are on your laptop. Basically just make a real effort to spend lots of time with him on the floor for a couple weeks and see if that makes a difference. Always let him come to you on his own terms when he feels safe, don't reach for him if you feel like he is not feeling safe in that moment (kind of anticipate his feelings)... some greens will help make you feel more inviting and attractive, and over time he will learn that humans mean yummies and they are safe and he will pop by for pets from you more often. :)

Watch a couple videos below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3rlWno7B8g - great video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS9HcoC19h4 - another good video

​

They don't mean to hurt you if they nip, likely they are communicating and what they might be saying is that they want more attentions. Give it a try...

Your questions aren't silly! It's great that you're thinking about how you can make you both comfortable before you dive into a new situation. Always set yourself up for success! :)

> do I buy a litter box/food/scratch-post before I plan to bring a cat home?

That's generally a good idea, yes. Means less stress for both of you as you're scrambling to get everything ready for him. You might ask the shelter what food the cat has been eating, as cats can get an upset tummy when switching brands/types. Not a big deal, but he will have poops that are a bit stinkier/liquidier than normal poops. That should alleviate within the week. You can lessen the tummy troubles by doing a more gradual change, mixing the food he is currently on with the food he will be on more and more, until he is eating what you want him on. But you can honestly just do the change, too, and just deal with the sadpoops for a little while.

I suggest a couple of different scratching posts, if you have the space! Cats like having options, like a horizontal post and a vertical one. Cats also like being high up, so if you can swing a tall post with platforms, he will probably like that.

Get two litter boxes! A lot of people don't realize it, but the rule of thumb for number of litters you should have is NumberOfCats + 1. So, 1 cat + 1 = 2 boxes. Clean them often. Cats are very clean creatures (especially compared to dogs) and are MUCH more likely to have accidents when they feel they do not have a better option than peeing in your bed. That's not their fault. You wouldn't want to step on your own pee/poop either! If you have problems with litter getting kicked out of the box, a litter mat can be helpful.

> Do I need to buy a carrier for the cat?

Yep. You'll eventually need to take him to a vet in all likelihood, and a carrier will make that so much easier, as most cats despise the car. I recommend a hard carrier. The softer ones seem nicer in general, but the hard carriers are easier to clean out, and you never know how a cat will be in the car until... well. They're in it. One of our cats poops and pees every. single. time. So he always gets the hard carrier.

> Should I contact a vet before I get the cat?

The shelter might require you to have a vet already, so I'd probably at least pick one out from google search. They might require you to go get a checkup, but probably not. That's more of a rescue thing, I think. Most shelters have their own in-house vet, so it's not really necessary. Don't be afraid to contact the shelter if he seems to be coughing and wheezing. Upper respiratory infections are very common in shelter environments due to the crowded nature of them, but they are also very treatable, and the shelter will be able to give you medication for him.

> How do I train a cat?

Someone mentioned Jackson Galaxy, who I generally agree is pretty good for training if you have some problems. But most of the time, cats are pretty out-of-the-box ready pets. That is to say, if you have an environment that is good for cats (where you let them have some space, where you don't make a huge amount of loud noise, where they aren't prodded and poked at constantly), they generally don't need training. We've fostered tiny kittens that automatically knew how to use the litter box. We also have boy cats who were not fixed until well into adulthood and have never had problems spraying.
It's instinct to go in the box, especially once they're fixed and don't need to mark territory really.

> For those of you who own a cat/cats, any advice for this first-timer?

Give both of you time to get to know each other. Don't force it. He will come to you, given time and space, and you'll be able to cultivate a better relationship built on trust and mutual respect if he knows that you won't force him to do things that he doesn't want to do (especially at first--think about it like building a friendship with a person; you would trust your friends to do things that you would never trust a stranger to do, and it's the same for him).

Cooing and gentle words are generally pretty good for coaxing, as is letting him smell your hand/something that smells like you before you approach for pets. Think about it like introducing yourself. You wouldn't go up to someone you didn't know well and just touch them without at least saying hi.

Every cat I have ever known, male or female, fixed or not, will pee in a pile of anything if it is left long enough. They see it as 'trash,' and I think it just registers as litter. So, if you are the type to leave clothes on the floor... I would try to stop that.

Keep nails trimmed. Scratching posts are for sharpening nails, which is an instinct that they have to fulfill, and you're giving them an outlet for. Some people think it's for 'filing' the nails down, but it's not. It's for keeping them sharp enough to get prey. You'll have to trim them.

And this is just my own personal opinion, but... young--but not kitten--boy cats are best for first timers. I have one girl, and I absolutely adore her, but she is very high maintenance/prissy/touchy, whereas my three boys are all pretty chill. Each cat is different though, so obviously your mileage may vary! It's just something I've noticed in general in my time of owning and fostering cats, that boys are more laid back/forgiving than girls (and thus I think a little easier for a first timer). Young adults are also great for first timers because you have less accidents (though that's generally not a big concern anyway) and they're more able to be on their own for longer periods of time. Older adults/seniors are great too if you want a really, really chill, more stand-offish cat, or if you want a cat that you'll have for <10 years, but if you want a little more energy and time, a cat that's about 1-2 years old is a GREAT way to go.

Some toys that are great for cats include the classic laser pointer, the feather toy, catnip toys, and crinkle balls.

Cats prefer to drink away from where they eat, so place his food bowl and his water bowl apart from one another! Some cats also prefer running water to still water, so if you notice your cat likes drinking out of the faucet (or if you just want to spoil your cat like I spoil mine...) you can get a water fountain for him!

Finally, if it's not working out for some reason, like your personalities just don't mesh well... take him back. I know it sounds hard, but it's best for him if he is in an environment where he is understood and his needs are met. There's no sense in forcing both of you to be miserable. Some shelters let you do a foster-to-adopt sort of thing, where you sort of try each other out for a bit. I like this option, because you hope for the best, but it feels a little bit easier to tap out if you need to. Either way, there's no shame in tapping out. Sometimes things just don't work the way you thought they would.

Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to be as thorough as I could. My parents recently got their first cat, and it's been... an ordeal for them, getting used to it.
It's great that you have some experience with cats though, so I think you'll be fine! Seriously, cats are sort of the next level up from a goldfish as far as easiness. Should be fine.

I hope you and your new furbaby are super, super happy together! :)

I rescued a german shepherd mix when he was about 2 months old and he just turned 2 years! He's awesome!

Join /r/dogs for great community, support, and advice.

Here are some of my dog's favorites if you're lost on what to Wishlist on Amazon:

• Hands down the best ball for fetch, if he likes fetch
  
• And the launcher I like this one b/c you can just throw it in a backpack and it'll zip all the way closed (I like to keep a backpack w/ my dog's park toys, some treats, poop bags, wet ones/purell, and his shot records) The best thing about the chuck-it is that you don't have to pick up a slobbery ball.
  
• Three very good chew bones
  
• Advantage Multi if you're not often taking him onto tick-heavy hikes. If you need tick control, get Frontline and Interceptor for heartworm.
  
• The best dog frisbee and I've tried a half dozen. Doesn't fly the best, but it's the most durable, safe, and flies great with a little practice.
  
• This Car seat cover is great
  
• Flexi leash is really handy when used appropriately.
  
• Poo bags can never have enough of. and you go through them pretty quick.
  
• Dog backpack great for burning off energy on walks/hikes, and makes them feel like they're doing an important job! I have this one in black. works great.
  
• Collapsible water bowl handy for hikes/camping/outings
  
• european style leather lead (leash) I'm preferential to the feel of leather for leashes/collars. And the european is absolutely the best - adjustable length and super easy to tether them to a pole/fence if you're eating outdoors or running into a store or something (of course use common sense when doing this!)
  
• Harness I'm not a fan of harnesses - they're annoying to put on/take off and just encourage a dog to pull more. But if you want him to pull, towing you on a skateboard or something (my dog loves this) then it's great
  Furminator GSD mixes don't need regular brushing, but this one works great for shedding season
  Dremel for nail trimming GSD = black nails, a bit trickier to trim. I use this with lots of treats to put a nice round edge and take off a bit of length of my dog's nails. works good but get him accustomed to it slowly and with lots of treats. Pretty soon he won't mind.
  *Zukes are great treats for training
  
• Bowls that don't tip over. Easy to wash. can't break. My pick.
  
• Big crate I use for vacations when I bring my dog but need to leave him in a hotel room or something. It's big and bulky but I like to give him room to move around comfortably.
  
• A good shampoo I like hydrosurge unscented but it's not on Amazon =\
  
• deodorizer I give my dog a little spritz between baths if he starts to get funky
  
• A shower head like this makes bathing super painless. I just bring my dog in the shower w/ me along with some treats and it's quick and easy.
  
• a scrubber like this gets my dog cleaner than I can with my hands. I found one at petco I like
  
  
  Wow I kind of didn't realize I have so much shit for my dog. But he's family so...anyway. Also costco has great beds for $20ish (comparably $80+ from a petstore) They also carry Frontline, lots of treats (buscuits, duck breast jerkey - the best!) good food (Iams ProActive goes on sale once in a while, and they also carry Natures Domain salmon/sweet potato food that's really good).

Oh! Oh! If you can't tell by my username, I can help here!

First of all, based on the $85 fee I'm assuming you're adopting adult cats? Thank you so much! Adult cats take forever to find their furever homes. If they're kittens THANK YOU for adopting them in pairs! It's more important than most people think! But no matter what, the one time fee means that you're choosing to adopt instead of supporting a breeder. I thank you from the bottom of my heart for this! I foster kittens that are constantly coming and going, so I've gotten a pretty good list of cheap things that work well. Sorry in advance for the wall of text. If you need ANY help at all when it comes to anything cat related, please ask!

• Food - Make sure you give them whatever the shelter gives them even if you plan on transitioning. It's important that you do it slowly. Here is a good article about how to do it. I highly recommend not going cheap here. If you spend money on one thing, a good diet is where to spend it on! I recommend grain free and/or limited ingredient diets, but I'm not a vet so I'd talk to yours about specifics.
  
  • Food bowl: You wouldn't think a little bowl would be so damn expensive, but it is. I have a dozen or so of these bowls for the kittens since I use many at a time, but I'd recommend starting out with 4 and see how you do there. Basically have 4 bowls (two to give to each cat for food, and an extra 2 for when the dirty bowls are in the wash). Almost any bowl will work, including the ones you have, but if you were thinking of buying one of those $73.12 bowls because you think your cat needs it and it has a silicone bottom, don't. They're a huge waste of money.
    
• Litter/box: Skip all the weird stuff/scents to put in your litter box to get rid of the smell. Just get unscented litter and baking soda. Sprinkle the baking soda on the bottom of the box, fill half your litter, sprinkle some more, fill the rest of your litter. You will also want 2 litter boxes at a minimum. The general rule of thumb is a box per cat + an extra one. As for litter box, I love this one, and here looks like a cheaper and similar version. As for litter, I HIGHLY recommend clumping because non clumping is a nightmare (we need to use it for very small kittens since they can ingest the clumping and it can hurt them). I use petco's bulk litter and love it. If you have one near you, you can pick up a big bin and refill it as needed for a lower price. Here is the big bag of it, but I think a refill on a 30lb thing is 10 dollars?
  
• Scratcher: Cats need to scratch, and they'll do it if you provide them with a scratcher or if you provide them with your own furniture. I would recommend at least one of these for each cat, plus maybe a couple extra depending on how big your home is. I have these everywhere because of of my kitties loves using them as beds. Soft fluffy stuff? Not a chance. Hard cardboard? Now we're talking! He's weird, and one of your beauties may be too. This is the best value one I could find, but really any of them would work. I also like this one because it's bed shaped-ish so they can also lay in it.
  
• Vet care: Every year you'll need to get vaccines and preferably a checkup for each one of your cats. I know petco recently started doing a clinic day where they JUST the vaccines for something like 40 bucks or something, but that doesn't come with a checkup which I would recommend. I would ask your shelter about low cost vet clinics in your area, I'm sure they would know! I can't find a link where you can put in your zip code and get a list or I would link it :(
  
• Toys: This is probably the easiest category to overspend in so don't. There's a lot of fancy looking toys that are great, but your cat gets bored of them quickly and even the best ones will get destroyed. I highly recommend buying a few kinds of cheap toys and seeing what your cat likes. Then regularly replacing them so it's new and shiny! For toys that'll fit in a bag, I like to have a catnip bag that I put some catnip in with the toys. Every so often I'll take toys out of the bag and the cats lose their minds. If after they get bored they're still in good condition - back in the bag they go!
  
  • Sparkle balls: These become choking hazards really quick, but cats LOVE THEM. I just bought these and they seem to be holding up well. Just like the food, I wouldn't recommend going cheap on them. The good news though is that even the good ones are still pretty cheap! Your local pet store will usually have good quality ones of these as well. Just don't get those "100 sparkle balls for 2 dollars!" off amazon.
    
  • Multipack: I LOVE this pack because it has a little bit of everything to see what kitty likes. The only downside is that the tunnel is pretty small. That's perfect for my foster kittens, but not so much for an adult cat. If you get it and the tunnel is too small, donate it to your shelter! Something like this also gives you a cheap way to stock up on a variety of toys.
    
  • Cat Dancer: I buy these in bulk they're so amazing. The link I'm giving you currently has the price of $4.20, but on November 2nd another seller will have them back at stock for 2 bucks each. I wouldn't buy them at 4 dollars, but at 2 they're a steal. The company also has a thing where you can hook them onto your wall and cats will play with it while you're gone. I bought it but haven't set it up yet. Another thing I LOVE about this is that you can wrap them around something.
    
  • Fishing pole toy: I call all of these kinds of toys a fishing pole toy. It's essentially a stick with something dangling from it. Cats go CRAZY for them and this is a good and cheap one. I also stick the pole part in couch cushions or between the bed and box spring so it's dangling.
    
• Cat tower: Honestly, some cats love them, some cats don't. I would eventually get a cat tower (at least one), but don't let it stop you from adopting! Your local pet store will have tons, but I've seen some very happy people who got a massive crazy one for cheap off amazon. I have 4 (3 for my cats, one for the kitten room) that all get very loved but I honestly have no idea where I got them from or I'd link it to you!

So precious! If he's your first, I really recommend a few things if that's ok! Amazon/ ebay links but products can be found elsewhere.

Watch My Cat From Hell - it's FULL of good ideas and knowledge, despite the cable TV format.

Harness and leash train your cat asap. Not only can you then take them for walks (which takes a couple years to do but is well worth it), being ok with a harness and leash will make him way easier to travel with and take to the vet.

Cat backpacks are easier than cat carriers; I like the solid rectangular ones best.



Check out robot toys that your cat can play with on their own, as well as bouncer toys (basically a long wire with a little cardboard thingy on each end that you can wedge somewhere for them to play with.

Couple of things mine love:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N9I68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



A cat tree next to a window with a bird feeder outside (you can get ones that stick onto your window) will make them very happy. Note on cat trees - I got a really good deal on ebay recently, and the same cat trees were way more expensive on Amazon - I totally recommend checking ebay for cost comparison on this. They were like 30-40% cheaper.

He looks like he's going to be a floof. I recommend these two brushes - the first is for removing extra hair every so often in the summer months, the second is a general daily brush (I just keep them in the powder room seeing as my cats insist on going to the bathroom with me anyway). This seriously reduces the amount of hair all over your home. We barely have cat hair on anything aside from their regular spots on cat furniture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWCRFUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YIWUXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If they do turn out to be floofy, watch out for them seeming bit light/ skinny in hot weather - they can get dehydrated, and this is a real life-shortener. Avoid cheap cat treats, which tend to be too salty (Temptations/ Dreamies etc) get the vet recommended sort.

My cats also love this fountain (we've gotten them three and this is the top pick and the easiest to use):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TY5D6C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Learn to trim his claws yourself - you'll save your furniture. I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002RJM8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay, I have a few bits of advice for you.

First things first, I know it's hard to do emotionally, but you've got to stop leaving dry food out for your cats all day. I had a professor once who was a cat behaviorist and he put it like this, "People feed horses like they should feed cats, and cats like they should feed horses." Meaning that horses are grazers and should have food all day, not just at certain times of the day. On the opposing side, cats are hunters and should be fed only at certain times of day, and not have food out constantly (which should also help with weight management for your kitty darlings in general, since it's so important to keep them at a healthy weight as they get older anyway!) AND this SHOULD make your roomie's cat less interested in getting into your room-if he realizes there is no reward on the other side of the door.

ALSO-as far as your room-mate's cat goes, you're right, she shouldn't be giving him tastes. Not just for your sake and your kitties' sake, but for her own cat's sake as well. Human food can be bad for kitties for a number of reasons and it's safest just to keep him away from it. Not to mention, like you said, it teaches him bad manners.

Now here's the tough part. It may sound ridiculous but obviously you need to talk to your roomie about this situation, which is conflict and awkward and horrible to deal with, I know. I really recommend looking up and doing some reading today on how to talk to people while avoiding conflict. There's stuff all over the internet about it, and it's a bit too hard for me to explain. Basically, not only is it a good life skill to have, but obviously you want to be able to talk to her about it without her getting upset or feeling personally attacked. Because cats are like your children, and people can easily get offended when they feel their "parenting" is being criticized. So I really, really, really recommend looking up just some general communication tips so you can talk this over with her without it being awkward or confrontational.

Also, here are some things that MAY help if you mention when you're talking to her (disclaimer: I don't know her, so you may have to cherry-pick things here that you think would help convince her):
-I don't know if her cat is overweight, but I think it's important to mention that even though fat cats are adorable and wonderful and everything, it's really not in their best interests to be overweight; just as with humans. Having a healthier relationship with food will help keep him at a healthy weight and can really help him live longer, as well as save her money (him maintaining a healthy weight can really keep down diseases and other things that cost lots of money.)
-I'd suggest this cat get fed separately from his brother, and given a toy such as this one:

http://www.redferret.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/e96a_stimulo_cat_bowl.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/Aikiou-Stimulo-Activity-Center-Green/dp/B00D91CQMW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QE1JPXJM0J0SEXG885N


http://www.amazon.com/Northmate-Catch-Interactive-Feeder-Cats/dp/B00EB4IV2A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QE1JPXJM0J0SEXG885N

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fg-ec2.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FG%2F01%2Fkolpakov%2Forangeslimcat._V398607070_.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FPetsafe-SlimCat-Meal-Dispensing-Blue%2Fdp%2FB0018CG40O&h=475&w=425&tbnid=eW1exz5JYvZ6FM%3A&zoom=1&docid=ZJge0SV6zuaQ1M&ei=-OAnVPjaF4f4yAS13oCgDg&tbm=isch&ved=0CCwQMygOMA4&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1275&page=1&start=0&ndsp=20

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003H44R5K/ref=gl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=VQZ0PRAGLUYB&coliid=I12NBLS87B4NXX

All of those are designed to slow a cat down while eating, while at the same time giving them the same mental stimulation that comes with play. This would make him eat slower, which is better for weight management as well as helping him to feel full and satisfied (if he ever does) and would keep him occupied enough for everyone else to finish eating before he could even think of getting to them. Not to mention it's fun for them! I don't know if you're willing to do this, but you could buy one of those options and give it to her as a gift, under the presumption that it is so he will leave his brother alone (I'm sure since they're both her children she probably doesn't like it when he bosses the brother around). It really is probably best to feed him alone, to prevent him from getting into anyone else's business and also would make life easier for your roomie, too.

Sorry about the book I just wrote.

I wouldn’t worry too much about them during the day, as long as they get to do some sort of activity at night like free roaming in the living room or bathroom, or getting access to some fun toys.


To keep them amused, I would recommend taking a look at this page: http://karasratworld.tumblr.com/post/75017549861/rat-toy-masterpost which features a lot of great ideas for cheap, do-it-yourself toys for rats that you can make. I find that my rats are generally not interested in the ferret and cat toys I buy them from the pet store. Same with stuffed animals I give them. Cheap toys that my rats enjoy include: small cardboard boxes that fit in their cage - I will open one end of the box and put the open end on the floor, so that the box is upside down. They love bringing in paper towels and fabric scraps into the box and making a nest. My rats also love paper bags. Big brown paper bags from the grocery store, or small brown paper bags for packing lunch. They will also treat it as a little ‘cave’ or ‘den’ and bring paper towels into it to shred into a comfortable, warm rat nest that they then sleep on. It’s really cute, and it’s cheap! These generally need to be thrown out after 1-2 days because they will be urinated on, and a rat sleeping inside a paper bag isn’t receiving terribly great ventilation and will probably be inhaling the ammonia from the urine. Tissue boxes are also much enjoyed by my rats. I rip out the clear plastic lining surrounding the tissue hole before giving it to them, so that they can’t accidentally eat any of it when they chew up the box. I also like to give my rats paper towel or toilet paper roll cores for them to chew on or curiously poke their head into. My baby rat used to be able to walk through them too!


My rat also enjoyed this toy. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H44R5K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It was recommended by another rat owner. It’s basically a toy with 3 holes, and you can turn the top half of the toy to control how many of these holes are open (1, 2, or all 3) and how big the openings are (half open, fully open, etc). You can put little treats in there. Treat recommendations include: home popped popcorn (microwave popcorn is covered in tons of unhealthy additives and flavorings), NON-sugary cereals, organic baby food “cereals” or puffs, sunflower seeds (in moderation!), maybe some sort of non-messy fruit like small blueberries. When I used to feed dry rat food to my rat, I would put the kibble bits into this toy and give it to her at night, so she had something to entertain herself with.


Other easy enrichment ideas include: nuts in shell. Just try to make sure they aren’t salted, and that they aren’t raw (unless soaked/sprouted). Brazil nuts in shell, peanuts in shell, pistachios, etc. They will have fun chewing off the shell to get the nut inside, and the chewing will allow them to wear down their teeth, which are always continuously growing. I want to say, however, that if your rats are sick with mycoplasma, you my want to avoid giving them nuts or seeds. Nuts and seeds are high in an amino acid called arginine, which has been said to trigger mycoplasma outbreaks. For this reason, my pink eyed white rat no longer gets sunflower seeds/nuts (but she gets plenty of other healthy treats!)


Regarding the sneezing:
Are you keeping them in a plastic storage container? With a lid of some sort? If so, the lack of ventilation may be contributing to the sneezing. Many rat fanatics are against keeping rats in glass tanks (the same ones used as fish aquariums), even if the top is covered in a wire mesh or open to the air, because they feel that having 4 solid walls hinders ventilation too much for it to be healthy. If you are keeping them in a bin with 4 solid walls (as opposed to in a wire cage where air flows through their 4 walls and ceiling easily), then their sneezing may be due to the lack of ventilation. More specifically, ammonia from their urine can irritate their respiratory systems. Pet rats are commonly said to have very sensitive respiratory systems, and unfortunately, rats are very prone to having a certain respiratory infection called mycoplasma. Mycoplasma is said to be so common in rats, that they every rat you come across will have it - UNLESS you specifically obtained a rat from a laboratory that was bred to be mycoplasma-free (a process which involves submersing the mother in an antiseptic and birthing her babies via sterile C-section, thereby sacrificing the mother’s life to keep her babies mycoplasma-free). A symptom to watch out for (aside from sneezing) is the buildup of a red substance on their face (especially around their eyes and nostrils) called porphyrin. Porphyrin is present in their mucus and saliva, and when a rat is sick with mycoplasma or stressed out, porphyrin buildup is commonly seen on their face. If you find this, I would recommend trying to get them into a better ventilated cage, cleaning their cage or changing their bedding more often (try to keep the amount of urine in the cage low by switching out towels more often, etc), giving them more fresh fruits and veggies (generally, if it’s a fruit/veggie that humans can eat raw, then female rats should be fine to have it too. Male rats should not be given citrus or mangos.)


I have two female rats - one is white with pink eyes. The other has black eyes and black and white fur. I notice that my pink-eyed-white wakes up and becomes active at 7:30pm, and is active all night until around 6am, when she becomes sleepy and goes to bed. When I stay home from work, she sleeps ALL day and the cage is super quiet until she wakes up at 7:30pm. My black eyed rat is a little younger, so she is more active, even during the daytime - but I am not sure if this difference is due to her youth or her eye color. (I specify their eye color because I have read that albino rats have a different REM sleep pattern. Source: http://www.ratbehavior.org/AlbinoPigmented.htm However, not all pink eyed whites are albino. Albino and pink eyed whites are not the same thing.) If your lady rats are anything like my pink eyed white, then they will likely be sleeping all day, so I would not worry about leaving them home. To further ease your concern, I want to say that I worked from home until I recently started having to go into the office for a 9-5 job, and I was also worried about my rats feeling neglected… until I learned their sleep patterns, and was able to confirm during my days off that my ratites are sleeping all day anyway. :)


To keep them entertained when they are awake, please consider trying some of the toy ideas in the website I linked above. It’s not my website, but I have definitely taken ideas from it that my rats enjoyed. The best toys are not necessarily the expensive ones or the ones that are time consuming to make. In my experience, my rats have enjoyed playing in things that would have gone into the garbage (boxes, paper bags, wrapping paper) more than the toys I bought them from the pet store.
If your rats are litter trained (which isn’t hard to do at all! but that’s a post for another day) and you have a spacious, rat proof bathroom where they cannot damage your items or escape, then a low effort way to exercise their bodies and minds may be to just leave their cage open in the bathroom, and throw some toys/boxes around the floor and let them explore. Maybe hide some food in there for them to find. Just be sure to rat proof the bathroom or remove things you don’t want them chewing on (toilet plunger, bottle of bleach toilet cleaner, bath rug, etc). Close the toilet seat so they don’t fall in.

XD There we go, jealous babe but a smart babe. He knows when you'll be without your kid and is excited for it. Kudos to Pidgey for figuring it out but he's definitely too strong about his mommy time.

Seeing the picture puts more context into it too, I swear, Siamese cats are a different creature sometimes!

Is the main issue the fact that he wakes you up too early or the attention? There are different options for both.

One, which may help the situation as a whole, is promoting plenty of time with both Pidgey and the baby. Hold the baby and play with Pidgey, use special toys, or offer special treats.

The more he associates your new babe with positivity the better. He'll begin to enjoy time when you're with the baby more (because more fun comes of it) and will feel that attention meter filling up. That's the first approach I would suggest. It will take time but it's a good, lasting, fix.

As your child grows let them be the one to set down the food for the cats, should problems persist. Positive reinforcement is the best thing to use with a cat, unlike a dog 'no' isn't often going to help. Not because they don't understand it but ANY attention is good attention to a cat.

The second option is to get a motion activated spray canister https://smile.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550332210&sr=8-3&keywords=motion+air+cat+deterrent A touch expensive but they should learn fast. The key here is that the can does the work, he doesn't see YOU giving the punishment. That means that the door becomes the bad place not you. Another key for training cats. You could also use a can of keyboard cleaner and spray it yourself but this would be more consistent and far enough away from the bed that it shouldn't bother baby.

Both options can be used in tandem as well for faster results but I always suggest going for one method at a time. That way, if there are any behavioral issues stemming from a fix you know which fix caused it.

I used one of those pheromone collar things with my cat when I brought him home and I think it helped. I got him as an adult (~2.5ish years old) from a rescue and the people there swear by them, and I figure they'd know since they have cats coming and going all the time. He cried in the carrier in the car, but he always does that.

I highly recommend Tidy Cats Breeze litter system. It is much easier to deal with than clumping litter, imo. I fill it with two bags of the pellets and replace roughly once a year. I get little dog poop type bags to scoop the poop into (I do it every day/every other day - I know people who go a week but my cat screams at me if I don't keep it clean) and put the pee pad in (I change 1x/week and I sprinkle Tidy Cats litter deodorizer across the new one). I also move the pellets around and wipe down the litterbox interior with clorox wipes and spray the pellets with Nature's Miracle. You can also wash the pellets in bleach water and put them back in rather than buying new but that sounds like too much work for me. I don't know how switching over would go because my cat just used it straight away.

My cat loves toys like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Petacc-Interactive-Suitable-Exercise-Training/dp/B075QDNDQ9/
He also likes little balls, especially if they're those ones with the kind of... hollow bits... so he can pick them up with his teeth and carry them.
Also, he is WAY more into carrying his toys into whatever room I'm in than any of my previous cats. He wants himself and all his things with me all the time. He will pull all his toys out of his toy bucket and carry them into my bedroom and put them right on top of me when I'm asleep. (He also has never used a pet bed and just sleeps either in my bed or in the armchair in my office or on the couch, depending on where I am. He likes to just hang out by me most of the time, even when he's asleep.)

I have a steel comb and a metal slicker brush for grooming. I don't use the furminator because it cuts his fur... it DOES completely eliminate hairballs, but it gives his coat this weird jagged appearance and tbh if I was that into completely eliminated hairballs, I'd trim his fur shorter with an electric trimmer (when he came from the rescue it was like that) so it was all even and nice. But regular brushing and combing and a periodic shower keeps him nice and we only get hairballs when the season changes into summer. My cat sheds A LOT and I have to do a light brush every day or two and a more thorough one weekly, especially in his armpits to keep the fur from matting. I also use small grooming scissors to trim his interior thigh and butt area because he can get "danglies" if I don't, and imo the fur smells a little funky in that area if it isn't short enough to be out of the way of his business.

I bathe him every several months - idk what would work best for your cat but for us I just bring him in the shower with me, wash and rinse him, wash and rinse me, turn the shower off and wring out as much as possible, wrap him in a towel and hold him like that for a while to absorb the water, then blow-dry. It's not too bad. He cries and tries to escape but he doesn't try that hard, and he looks so nice afterwards. He doesn't watch me shower like a lot of cats do but it's very clearly because he's worried he'll be washed, lol. I don't let him in the bathroom when I'm using it because it's creepy to have him staring but he usually waits right outside the door.

For whatever reason, this is my cat's favorite style of scratcher: https://smile.amazon.com/Catit-Scratcher-Catnip-Jungle-Stripe-Lounge/dp/B0032G6VVQ/
I've tried many others but he basically only wants this one.

Original post: I was in tehran(capital of iran) and saw this in front of a coffee shop. The waiter explained: “ we tried to take him home with us but he would just escape and come back here so we made him a little bed and give him food and water daily and when it’s cold he’ll just sleep inside the shop”

Comments:

Author: Kasia_Kalon Body: Awww they gave him a little scratching post too. He probably considers the coffee shop his home and that's why he always goes back. No place like home!

Author: gorcorps Body: We have the same scratcher (we call it the kitty couch) and they LOVE it. It gets teared to shreds, slept on, then replaced so it can start all over again.

Author: ReleaseTheKraken72 Body: We have the same one too! Out of all their scratching posts, this is by far their most favourite they have ever had!!

Author: RedcoatsWife Body: Can I have the name of said scratching post please? I need a good one so bad for my very weird, picky cat.

Author: Whatamensch Body: Might be this? Catit Style Scratcher with Catnip - Jungle-Stripe Lounge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032G6VVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YMazDbD68QR29

Author: MaritMonkey Body: My cat's mostly grown out of scratching stuff, but at one point we were going through those things weekly so we started cutting ~2" strips of cardboard and gluing them together into a plank (like this). If I had it around I'd sprinkle catnip between the "boards." If you also suffer from an overabundance of spare cardboard in your life, this could be a budget solution. :D

Author: TrimiPejes Body: On a sidenote, how is Teheran? Always wanted to visit

Author: krkzrm Body: I was actually worried about visiting but it was actually pretty great. It’s really big and populated and it can be kinda confusing and the transportation system is not the best but it was a good experience overall

Author: TrimiPejes Body: Thx bro

Author: LlamaramaDingdong86 Body: Are foreign women required to wear a hijab or can I go bare haired?

Author: Seskapill Body: Women must cover their hair while outdoors, but it's not extreme like in SA, you can leave some hair out of the front (see these for example)

Author: LlamaramaDingdong86 Body: Thanks for the good answer with pictures.

Author: MM__21 Body: Actually those examples are not exactly accurate. You have a high chance of getting arrested if you show that much hair. Maybe like an inch or three. Either way, you should still go! Amazing food and places to see. Edit: Some people have pointed out it is fine, so wear it how you want I guess. But people I know usually cover most of their hair when they visit to avoid getting in trouble. Edit #2: Looks like things have changed from how I remember it, so you probably wont get arrested.

Author: LlamaramaDingdong86 Body: Based on travel shows like No Reservations, it seems we all have more in common than media and government leads us to think. The common people of any given country are more alike and peaceful towards each other than their political leaders. I have dreams of making enough money to travel to very far away places like Iran. One day.

Author: samdavi Body: They’re waaay more lenient on foreign women than Iranian women. The pictures are pretty accurate.

Author: Tark1nn Body: https://youtu.be/tVe8xuv9BKA french but talks about women's role in Iran, definitely not what we think it is.

Author: alikh1010 Body: It’s crowdy, big and beautiful. I live in Tehran so ask me if you need any information.

Author: pedoreus Body: Salam azizam.

Author: Oirammario12345 Body: Azizam salam

Author: krkzrm Body: Doset darm asheqetam vasalam

Author: pedoreus Body: Man ye irani hastam vali to soed. Teheran Che khabar?



----
^Bugs

Ah I didn't know you had birds. I thought you meant the ones outside for some reason.

Try (all can be found on amazon)

Nano Robotic Cat Toy (White/Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RWU17KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BpaOyb5AGDYAW

• approved by my cat
  
  Company of Animals Nina Ottosson Dog Brick Interactive Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KZ4WJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fpaOybTPCKNTJ
  
  
  
• great treat puzzler meant for dogs, but it works fine for intelligent cats too!
  
  The Natural Pet Company Feather Wand Cat Toy (Includes 3x Feather Refills), these Natural Feathers are Guaranteed to Drive Your Cat Wild https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPGZQNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xtaOyb3AC0YD2
  
  
• physically playing with them with a fishing pole type toy like this I think is a great idea and really important. The ones with the longer poles/strings are the ones they actually jump for!
  
  
  Catit Senses 2.0 Food Tree https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI31Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-waOybNRGP826
  
  
• Nice puzzle feeder
  
  SmartyKat Crackle Chute Collapsible Cat and Dog Tunnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B41TOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xyaOybH6FKHBP
  
  
• my cat loves stalking while playing in this thing!
  
  Grey Shark Bed for Small Cat Dog Cave Bed Removable Cushion,waterproof Bottom Most Lovely Pet House Gift for Pet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DZITYGU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QAaOyb8XZ6HMP
  
  
• just for fun haha
  
  
  
  The new cat hasn't been spraying outside the litter box has he? If so, it may be worthwhile to give any problem areas a really good clean up.

I've enjoyed reading through everyone's responses and have added a ton of things to my cart/wishlist...

Amazon is my go-to for pretty much everything --- phone cases, screen protectors, batteries, cat food, random household things. Off the top of my head, my favorites:

• Lightning/micro-USB charging cable. I love that it can flip between the two charging ports; I can use one cable for my iPhone and Kindle, finally! We've replaced all of our electronic cables with these.
  
• My Kindle Voyage. Love, love, love it! It's always with me.
  
• Zinus SmartBase mattress frame. Sturdy, quiet, and super tall for underbed storage. Enough said!
  
• Packing cubes. These are soft-sided packing cubes, which is great for me since I can cram more things into them. I get so much more suitcase space back, and it helps keep things organized once I'm at a hotel.
  
• Stainless steel sink caddy. Sponges left in the sink drive me crazy! I like this one because it also has stands for scrubber brushes and the coordinating soap dispenser (which I also bought) fits nicely in the compartment.
  
• Programmable cat feeder. We've tried so, so many automatic feeders for our cats. The feeders either crap out or the cats figure out how to get it to dispense extra food. This one though --- it's been going strong for 2.5 years and the little jerkbags can't get their paws up the food chute; not that it matters, because portions are on a conveyor belt inside the feeder. You can set multiple feeding times, adjust portions for each meal, and it's super easy to refill thanks to the lid on top. We have a power adapter for it... the manufacturer didn't have the factory one listed at the time (it's separate) so we got a generic multi-purpose one that works.

Didn't notice this before, but this seller is a real tool.

Check out his return policy on his rug:

"For sanitary reasons we cannot except a used return. Every buyer deserves a first time use, scent-free, brand new experience. If you wish to return your Ripple Rug for a refund it must be in new condition, untouched by pet and scent free. Used returns with hair, excrement or any matter will not be refunded; No Exceptions. We know you love your cat, as we love ours, you have our 100% guarantee that all shipped items are Brand New, never used, never touched by pet, and scent free. We hope you can appreciate our dedication to the safety of your pet. If you return a used product we will NOT grant a refund. Abuse the Amazon return policy will not be tolerated. If our 'Always New, Always Sanitary' policy offends you; do not buy our products."

Dude, you sell on Amazon. If you don't like their return policy, tough luck. Sell somewhere else.

You can't make up your own return policies. Good luck on the barrage of A-Z claims that will eventually get you suspended.

My bully is also 7! We use Earthbath shampoo. I'd recommend these Keto-C Antiseptic wipes if he has any skin fold irritation. You might want to try a fish oil to add to his food; that should help his hair and they just love it. My pup has some arthritis and hip dysplasia, so we give him a glucosamine/chondroitin supplement. He has a bit of a grain sensitivity so he eats Rachel Ray Just Six. I keep Benadryl on hand (vet approved) because it helps when he gets seasonal allergies. Get some dog toothpaste and a brush; it really does help. My pup loves any kind of dental bones, also. Keep an eye out for a head tilt or unusual ear wax/discharge as bullies can be prone to ear infections. Make sure he wears a harness (we've used a cheap roman harness for years but recently got this harness) and take good care of his neck- my boy has recently been dealing with a prolapsed intervertebral disk, which is caused by normal play like tug of war and fetch, jumping off the couch, going up and down stairs, and generally having a huge head. So now we play very carefully, carry him on stairs, and have him on an anti-inflammatory. He uses a raised feeding dish to prevent strain. We also put a little tennis ball in his food to make him eat slowly (he has a tendency to eat too fast and throw up). I use Argan oil and petroleum jelly on his nose when it gets dry.
I'm sure he'll let you know his taste in treats and toys soon, but my buddy likes antler chews, Busy Bones, and all stuffed animals. Rawhides make him throw up. Congratulations and good luck!

Baby Josie is beautiful! I had a Maincoon named Tiki. He lived to be 16! BEST CAT EVAH!!!!

She would love this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006VMN4O

A Mini me for her to snuggle with: http://www.amazon.com/Davey-Maine-Coon-Douglas-Cuddle/dp/B004YSH3Y0

A Kitteh tunnel!!!: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EFMLBW?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000EFMLBW

Toys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PVTLWW?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000PVTLWW

Toys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYSAIW?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000IYSAIW

Toys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M1B7I6?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000M1B7I6

And more toys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DHV16?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0002DHV16

Maincoons LOVE to play and have that kitten play aspect to them for YEARS!!!Mine loved balls, and a good old laser pointer was the best thing ever. He would get running after that red dot, and couldn't stop well on our hardwood floors and would slide in walls....

Oh and a cat bed on top of the Fridge would be great for your girl. Tiki always slept on top of the fridge :)

=) we love to help fellow kitty owners!

I have found that if you play with your kittys paws while they are very sleepy or asleep you'll have a much easier time clipping their nails as they get older. Of course, I always recommend nail grinding over clipping because its smoother, lasts longer and it tickles vs pinches however, shes a baby and that will take some training!

get lots of toys! and play with her often. remember, just like your puppies need walk and play time, she does too! you can even train a cat to talk on a leash so you can take her with you on your walks with the dogs.

i have found my cat likes moving water and will absolutely NOT drink water from a bowl or anything thats sitting still. I use this fountain instead. Makes for happy kitty. hydration is very important!

as others have said, scratching posts are important. don't forget your flea, tick, and heartworm medications. Also, kitties should be brushed. My cat is scared of brushes so I use this which he adores and gets very excited when he sees it.

dogs like to eat cat poop for whatever unexplainable reason. please do yourself a favor and invest in a closed litter box sorta like this. its worth it!!

Accessory

I am a huge fan of the Ruffwear Slackline leash. I love the snap on the handle (make it really easy to take him to work with us), the adjustable length, the clasp and the built in reflective strip. Very durable and has been a great leash! I had no strong opinion of leashes until I bought that one.

Chew

Dried Beef Tracheas are my corgi's favorite chew - I am really glad I tried them despite how disgusting they look. They last a decent amount of time (usually a couple hours - even with our raw fed power chewer) and are stuffable. They also don't smell like bully sticks can.

Suppliment

Grizzly Salmon Oil is probably one of the best supplements I have purchased. Has done amazing things for his coat.

Toy

The Kyjen Flirt Pole is probably one of the best toys I have purchased. Our corgi LOVES it, and despite people think I am carrying a whip around, I have zero complaints about it.

Treats

Lakse Kronch Salmon Dog Treats. I saw them for the first time at our raw pet food deli - tried them and our corgi LOVES them. They are incredibly stinky, have only TWO ingredients (Salmon & fish meal), and are fairly easy to work with (although a bit crumbly).

I have what we think is a Great Pyr mix (her wisdom panel was submitted last week) but she definitely has pyr-like long flowing fur with a wooly undercoat. I think I own like 5 different brushes/combs, but her favorite and the one that keeps her looking nice are the slickers (I recommend getting one that deposits the fur off of it like this one. To get at the undercoat most efficiently though, my favorite is the Shed Monster. It really gets to that soft wooly undercoat and gets a lot out at a time. The Furminator does okay, but not as well as the Shed Monster in my experience. We do also use an undercoat rake as you mentioned, but I feel like it doesn't do as good of a job of consolidating the fur and kind of gets it all over. Hope this helps!

Edit: Just saw your pup tax. They look just like my girl!

Please do not yell at your cat or spray your cat with water it will not teach it a thing and it will only confuse it and teach it to be afraid of you.

Increase one on one play time with your cat to get some energy out. Use a variety of toys and rotate them. Some tried-and-true favorites...
This is such a simple toy and a very cheap so order several as they are an add-on item and they’re great to have around in every room because kitties seem to always enjoy them whether it’s dangled from the air or drug along the ground for chasing.
Cat Dancer 101 Cat Dancer Interactive Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1evSCbGX4WXZ4

Order natural peacock feathers off of Amazon for a super fun game with your kitty. The first time my girl are saw one she literally stood up on her hind legs walking across the floor trying to get out it. When you want to get the feather away pull it straight back toward you and it will slip through their claws and teeth. Eventually the quill will break from play so it's good to get a pack of them, they are not very expensive.
ALL in ONE 20pcs Natural Peacock Tail Feather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HSNADGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_NHlSCbJAG6FXW

SnugglyCat The Ripple Rug - Made in USA - Cat Activity Play Mat - Thermal Base -Fun Interactive Play - Training - Scratching - Bed Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016H3T8EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dg9vCbVZN8R0Y. My girl goes crazy for this one every time. Dangle a peacock feather or anything else outside some of the holes when your kitty hides in the rug and you’ll see little arms reaching out of holes all over the place it is hilarious and loads of fun.

Your kitty is a lifelong companion so please take a little time to make the most of that relationship and read this book by Jackson Galaxy- The cat daddy himself.

Total Cat Mojo: The Ultimate Guide to Life with Your Cat https://www.amazon.com/dp/0143131613/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WRCHCbTMQSY5F

First thing you're gonna hear on this sub is get the boys checked by a vet. With cats urination issues are sometimes symptoms of very serious and sometimes fatal conditions. What you're also gonna wanna do is:

1. Make sure the litter box is frequently scooped (at least once a day). And the entire box should be emptied and refilled fresh at least every few weeks. The standard rule for the number of litter boxes required is the number of cats plus one. So in an ideal world they should have access to 3 litter boxes. If that's not gonna happen and they just have the one then it needs to be scooped VERY frequently. Try and position the litter box near a problem area. It can be moved once the problem has been resolved but it will make the retraining easier. You can add Litter Attract to the litter box and that will make it more tempting for them to use it.
   
   
2. Cats will pee in the same area. The spots they have peed in need to be cleaned with an enzymatic cleaner like Natures Miracle. Nothing else will work. Even if it looks clean and smells clean to you, the cats will still smell it.
   
   
3. If the cats are causing a ruckus at night then they need to be played with more. Get some interactive toys like the wands and play with them until they pant. A tired cat is a good cat.
   
   
4. Many people on this sub recommend and use feline pheromone spray/diffusers/collars. Feliway is the top brand. It can help problem cats calm down and be more comfortable.
   
   I'd also recommend you or your parents watch some videos on youtube by Jackson Galaxy aka the Cat Whisperer. This guy knows his stuff. Here's a few videos to get started:
   1
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The Fur-Zoff Pet hair removal Rock is a game changer. I was so mad when i received it and it was literally some kind of lightweight rock, but this thing is like magic. I have a dog who does nothing but sleep and shed fur. Like he wags his tail and i can see fur flying off him. I had bought several fur collection products and this is my fave out of all of them -- i got one of those velvet things, i got regular sticky lint rollers, i got special vacuum cleaner attachments, and this is by far the best thing. I use this on my couches, on my clothes, on my rugs, on my bags, the seats in my car, on the stairs -- it works on EVERYTHING. I have a friend who details cars and he says this is the best thing for cleaning cars with pet owners.

Some ideas that have worked for my anxious kitty who also didn’t like exercise:

Feliway brand pheromone spray and collar (or any of their other products). It helps the cats feel calm and humans can’t smell them. https://www.feliway.com/us

A timed auto feeder. My cat has harassed auto feeders instead of me, which is a nice break for me.

Indoor hunting feeder (like this brand https://docandphoebe.com/). It mixes exercise and play with food because the cat has to seek out where their food is hidden.

“Puzzle” feeders like this one: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Egg-Cersizer-Interactive-Dispenser-Treats/dp/B003H44R5K. Like the hunting feeder, the cat will have to work at least a bit to get his food.

Lots of toys for exercise! I sew mini pillows (about the size of your palm) and fill them with catnip and crinkly paper in addition to normal polyester pillow stuffing. I hide them around the house for the cats to find. They love them and they’re very cheap to make with scrap fabric.

I’ve also introduced more rewards that aren’t food related. Our one cat (Spud) needed to lose quite a bit of weight. It was hard because I love to give him treats when he’s sweet. I started giving him bits of catnip, cat grass, toys, extra cuddles, and brushing him instead. He now has more things he associates with positive behavior that aren’t treats!

I wish you the best!!

Bummer. Firstly, congrats on your new kitty bud! Have you taken him to the vet to make sure he doesn't have any health problems?

Secondly, it's definitely not too late to change his behavior, but you'll want to nip this in the bud. I assume you've washed your bedding - does it still smell like pee at all? It's very important that all of the smell is gone so that your cat doesn't smell his old pee and think, "this is the place to go!" I've had problems with my littlest cat peeing inappropriately and we had good luck removing all traces of urine by combining an enzymatic based cleaner with a peroxide based cleaner and soaking the items over night.

As far as getting him to use the litter box, you may want to purchase some cat attract litter. It's expensive though, so I've typically mixed it half and half with my regular litter.

This is the part you're probably not going to like. Have you considered putting an open topped litter box (with cat attract litter) in your bedroom? It probably wouldn't have to be a permanent addition - normally, once a cat has gotten comfortable using a particular box you can move it a few feet every few days until it's where you want it.

Something else to consider is that cats don't usually pee/poop where they eat, sleep, or hunt. You could try giving him treats on your bed, or bringing him to bed with you at night, or using a laser pointer to play with him on the bed.

Hope this helps! This can be a very frustrating situation but try to have patience!

I had a cat that became like this because my father got so annoyed by her meows that he would feed her every time she meowed just to shut her up. It did not work, because she just became conditioned that meows = food, and so, by the end of her life, she was just constantly meowing.

If he is going to meow anyway, I would say that it is worth limiting his food. A few weeks of dramatics should eventually fade off as he learns that it will not work. Cats are very smart animals - smarter than dogs, in some ways. They are highly trainable.

You can also try one of the many devices on the market that require the cat to "work" for its food, e.g. this ball that lets out just a little food at a time. Start slowly cutting down on his food as you add more and more kibble or treats to this ball.

We taught our cat to do tricks. The first thing that we did was to teach him to sit, and so now he always does this (sits politely in front of his food bowl or by your chair) when he wants food.

It is also worth mentioning that dry food is actually more fattening and less healthy than canned food, so a partial switch may be in order.

Lastly, you can try switching to an automatic feeder, so that humans are removed almost entirely from the equation entirely. This may help to rewire his conditioning.

Anyhow, best of luck!

Edit: I want to add that skin conditions are pretty common in obese cats. They may not be able to reach all of their fur to keep it clean. Having unkempt fur and skin that he can't reach would be very, very uncomfortable for your cat, and may be part of what is making him so miserable. There are wipes on the market that would allow you to clean the affected area for him, or you could consider giving him a bath every once and a while (I know, I know, but it is possible to ease him into the process). You can also try giving him a little plain olive oil every once and a while. This is safe for cats, can be good for their skin and coats just like it is for humans, and they sometimes really like the flavor. My cat has some very dry and damaged paw pads from his prior life as a stray, and so we put this stuff on his paws every once and a while. He will also eat it mixed into his food.

Oh, the difficulties of being a pet, with all your needs provided for you... I know the feeling, though. I want my cats to be happy and mentally stimulated.

One, rotate your toys. Put all of your toys in two or three boxes and change them every 2-3 days. I like to make a Tuesday box and a Friday box. On those days, I pick up the old toys and gradually introduce "new" ones from the box. Cats have really, really short memories, so they'll treat the "new" toys like they really are new.

Two, you can try toys that look like this: http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3833-Peek-Prize-Pet/dp/B0006VMN4O I make my own using cardboard boxes and toss them when they get gross. Just make sure the opening is big enough for them to get their paw in and pull the toy out. Err on the side of too easy. Even smart cats will get discouraged quickly. After all, he's never been challenged before! You can put toys or treats in there. Like the normal toys, if he gets bored, pick it up and hide it for a few days and then put it back out.

Three, get a treat-dispensing ball and put some dry food in there or treats. You can make your own using a toilet paper roll, but I find that it just gets greasy from the treats and my cats don't use it as much as the plastic balls I bought. This way he has to "work" for his food. My cats love it.

I'll also take the dry food and put it in a small plastic tupperware container (lid off), and then put under another tupperware, so they have to knock off the top one to get to the food. Or use a larger box/laundry basket and prop it up so they have to reach their paw under to get to the food, and if they nudge it, the basket falls down. This will frustrate them, so don't start with it, but when he gets bored of everything else, then you can start making it difficult. This is hard to describe, but I'm not at home so I can't take pictures for you.

Lastly, you can try Cat TV - putting on videos of birds, mice, etc for them to watch. Mine like watching YouTube videos of big cats like tigers. Be careful - if you put prey on your LCD screen, they will want to catch it, and that involves claws.

Oh, and about that toy he loved, I buy the following two toys at I think PetSmart for about $1-$1.50. Most cats love 'em. I've seen a few cats that go CRAZY for one or the other. One is a mouse with feathers for a tail and the other is a plastic ball with feathers sticking out.

Good luck!!

You got some good responses already, but let me add in that going younger (but not necessarily a kitten) will be better if you're worried about leaving the cat home all day. An older cat might be more set in its ways and more difficult to acclimate to that lifestyle, meaning it may be more likely to scratch, pee outside of the litter box, or otherwise revolt.

A younger cat you'll be able to raise around your schedule so it can get used to that without any major headaches.

If you get the cat used to being home alone and free eating (as in, you fill the food bowl and it manages to eat when hungry and not eat the entire bowl because it is there) you'll have some flexibility should you need to go out of town. I feel comfortable leaving my cat alone for 3-4 nights because she'll have plenty of food and is pretty chill by herself.

Before you spend the money (and they are expensive) on a carpet cat tower, try the cardboard scratchers. My cat goes apeshit for these things, and she never touched ONE of the expensive scratching posts I bought her. She used to scratch my furniture -- taking one sofa down to the wooden frame. I found this scratcher
at TJ Maxx for $6.99 and later cheaper on Amazon. They take up a lot less room than the towers, and has been the only thing that saved my furniture.

Also, if scratching becomes an issue on your furniture, Soft Claws are one of the greatest inventions ever. They are little silicone caps that fit over the cat's nails and don't interfere with anything they do. Before I got the cardboard thing, those would prevent damage to my furniture even though cat still went through the motions of scratching. Also, they have fun colors and I get to make her nails red & black during football season. :)

I have a cat shopping list for myself, here are some links to a few of the things I plan to purchase and thought could help you.

I would consider getting as many of these covers as necessary, and a few scratching posts to put nearby.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XV586VQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kWzyDb2V14202

You could also try placing these in front of or on top of the couch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iZzyDbHT6AA8Q
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017XBDPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KZzyDbXTT8JGG

They also make claw covers that come in multiple colors. Regardless of what you do, please don't discard your cat, and do your best to trim his nails. I use this one, it's pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JENKK8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P3zyDbQCRECV3

Remember that encouraging good behavior with treats and appropriate outlets for scratching is vital to the health of your pet and the sanity of your household. Do your best not to punish, simply redirect them to a better option. (Basically put the cat scratching posts near the couch or any problem areas while covering the furniture with hard plastic to redirect his energy.)

This is random, but kind of cool in my opinion. I brush my cat with his brush I have now and then I'm stuck with no idea how to actually get the hair out of the brush..I usually end up using a bobby pin or something. But look at this awesome thing that makes it super easy to do. How fun, right? bahaha. Umm also, I've had this on my wl for a while but I think it's a very good way to watch what you eat. I've gotten a lot better at it but portions are my hardest thing to get a hang of and this is supposed to help with that. Thanks for the contest!

A good resource to have on hand is the Cat Owner's Manual. It's illustrated, actually entertaining to read, and covers a lot of the basics of cat care.

I will second a lot of the recs below:

• A water fountain is awesome; cats will drink much more water if it's clean and moving.
  
• Talk to your vet for food recs; don't buy cheap.
  
• Clipping claws can become easier if you follow the method described below to accustom your kitty to the process.
  
• Scratching posts/pads are crucial, and there are lots of types -- I keep some of each kind, but you'll want both vertical and horizontal scratchers.
  
  Toys can be any of a wide variety. One called Da Bird is almost universally popular. Catnip toys are always a hit, just consider the size and shape so they can be picked up and carried by the kitty. 'Kicker' toys are almost always a hit. I've had good luck with floppy fish, mylar crinkle balls, and soft spongy foam balls as well.

Thank you!

We've been combing him with:

Pro Quality Self Cleaning Slicker Brush for Dogs and Cats - Easy to Clean Pet Grooming Brush Removes Mats, Tangles, and Loose Hair with Minimal Effort and Comfort - Suitable for Long or Short Hair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMRF81Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mt.EDbPW8WXCH

I don't think he likes it very much and it seems to be a tiny bit painful for him so we let him lick frozen treats during his combing. It works (?) though.

For shampoo, we've been using:

Earthbath Oatmeal & Aloe Shampoo, Vanilla & Almond, 16 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002IEYIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vu.EDbNR9VDN3

It seems okay (?).


I would definitely love any tips on how to maintain a healthy coat as he's turning eight months old in a couple of weeks! Also, may I ask how often you clean your doodle's ears and teeth? Thank you :)

I am not affiliated with any of these links and you can get them at stores like Petco or Petsmart. Just sharing these links so you can learn about they products I've had great results with. Hope it helps!

​

This is the shampoo I use for all three of my dogs and it works great. We use the vanilla & almond one.

https://www.amazon.com/Earthbath-Oatmeal-Shampoo-Vanilla-Almond/dp/B0002IEYIE/ref=sr_1_10?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1550507301&sr=1-10&keywords=dog+shampoo+for+dry+itchy+skin

​

Same company as above for the conditioner. Again we use vanilla & almond.

https://www.amazon.com/Earthbath-Natural-Oatmeal-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B00079PHV6/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/131-7273899-1567662?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00079PHV6&pd_rd_r=3a1a8f68-339a-11e9-8f94-b51658e5fe33&pd_rd_w=IWda9&pd_rd_wg=DYUlE&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=TPK5VTR1Z65S4K73ZQ3M&psc=1&refRID=TPK5VTR1Z65S4K73ZQ3M

​

This is the tar based shampoo I have used with good results every few baths for one of our GSD's. Follow it up with the conditioner linked above

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Specialties-Sulfur-Shampoo-16-Ounce/dp/B00AO3O4IC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550507228&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=tar+based+dog+shampoo

​

Try a free-feeding puzzle feeder. My cat got to a chonking 16 pounds (which is large for her size). We purchased a Catit puzzle feeder and she lost the weight in a few months. And she’s maintained herself at a perfect (for her) weight of 8.5 lbs for over 2 years now. Because my girl is a natural borne ✨Diva✨ my husband was against it at first, but it’s cheap, so...what’s to lose? I spent a couple minutes poking my fingers in and knocking bits down to show her the idea and she took to it like a fish to water. We now have a second one, of a different style and different maker, that we put elsewhere in the house and fill with a different flavor/type of food. Both my cats love them. The idea is to prevent them from easily eating too much when bored and to make eating more stimulating, like a hunt.

They can eat as much as they want for as long as they want, but they have to earn every last kibble of it. My (former) fat cat seemed to live in front of the feeder at first - knocking food down most of her waking hours. But now it’s just a few times a day, and maybe a single tablespoon’s worth of food at a time.

This is another Catit puzzle feeder. They also have a variety of puzzle feeder toys - if you’re OK with bits of kibble all over the house. This is just one example.

(We actually just had to put our former chonker on a special renal diet. (She’s 18). We picked her favorite puzzle feeder and changed just it to the new, specialty food and left the normal food in the other. My two girls haven’t had a stitch of trouble telling which is which. I think the only downside - as they see it - is that they’ve lost the diversity of two feeders. (According to the stuff I’ve read, they recommend multiple feeders spaced around the house to engage their instinct to search out food.) But I’ll be damned if I’m going to have multiples for each type of food spaced around the house. After all, there’s only so much room in my house.)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NIZAH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I think you could find it at PetSmart too

This is a great fountain because you can easily change how many spouts of water there are, a cat can either drink from the basin or lap up the streaming water (which my boys love to do) It is VERY easy to clean and take apart, you could even put most of it in the dishwasher if you wanted to. I've never had an issue w it causing more acne w my youngest cat, who is prone to get clusters on his chin since he doesn't really clean himself v well. He had more of it when I was just using ceramic bowls as water dishes actually.

As far as the acne on the chin, if your cat can't groom there and it seem to be bothering him, there are wipes and things you can get to help keep clean.

I love the Omega Paw non-scooping box. Here is the Amazon link to it. It's super cheap, super easy to clean, and yeah, no scoop.

I buy $10 40 lb box of clumping kitty litter once every few months or so at Wegmans and I'm good.

How long have you had your cat?

When I first adopted mine from the shelter, her fur wasn't in the best shape. She had kitty dandruff and shed a lot. Now that I've had her a while her fur is longer, thicker, and healthier, and the shedding is minimal, except when she was stressed out when she stayed with a friend for a week -- then she was shedding TONS of fur when I brought her home.

It's my understanding that one of the things that really influences fur/skin health is the food your cat eats. If you aren't already, you might try gradually switching to high quality foods -- ones that are high in good protein and low in grains and carbohydrates. If your budget allows you can feed part or all wet food too, and mix the wet food with some water (to increase hydration) and occasionally a splash of oil (like olive or salmon) to help with fur health. Of course, consult your vet on these matters!

A good brush can also help. I've got this one which I like because of the easy fur removal after brushing, but I hear the furminator is really the best for getting rid of all the loose fur.

Hope that helps!

Grooming: I've tried every brush out there, and the most effective on our aussie is a grooming rake and a slicker brush. We use the grooming rake for de-shedding on his back and belly, and the slicker brush on his ears, mane, pants, feathers, and tail to get out knots because he won't tolerate the rake on that thicker fur. Also, get a good grooming spray, and I suggest investing in a good professional groomer (that knows not to shave a double coat) every 4-5 months depending on if your dog gets matted.

Walking: I like the wonder walker, easy walk is also good.

Toys: Puzzle toys! Ditch the food bowl entirely, aussies need a job to do. My dog loves any ball he can push with his nose that dispenses treats.

I have this PetSafe one. It's kindof infomercially, but it works quite well. I've never had the rake get stuck or mess up or anything. There is kindof a weird thing where the little lid that covers up the poop-holding compartment sometimes will get stuck open, but I can't figure out if that's a design flaw or if my toddlers are messing with it. It could even be the cat messing with it (he likes to clean his paws after using the litter box by rubbing them really hard on the sides of the box). Also, it doesn't make a big difference because the silica gel litter takes care of the odor well enough that I don't notice any difference in that.

The only catch is that you must use silica gel litter for it to work (clumping litters will fuck up the rake, I think). And the only issue with that is that stepping on tracked-out silica gel litter is one step below stepping on Legos. Otherwise, it contains odor very well.

On that note, their official refills are basically just cardboard boxes filled with silica gel litter (and lined with a liquid-impermeable material). I bought the reusable plastic liner along with the official litter packs and it's worked great. I initially was buying a different silica gel litter in larger bulk quantities to save a little money over using their official refills, but I never found a source that was that much cheaper than the official refills, and the convenience of (1) having the refills be measured out to a good amount to just dump in the box and go and (2) setting them up on Amazon Prime subscription is worth the premium to me.

My cat also likes scratching the carpet. We also have many scratching pads/posts but he likes the rug. We gave him a small rug of his own that he plays under and likes to scratch.

I want to get him this: http://www.amazon.com/The-Ripple-Rug-Interactive-Scratching/dp/B016H3T8EC/ref=pd_sbs_199_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=418U3bELU-L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09QSQ3ZSZJ4K3HHQYJ96

Most of these are also good scratchers:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dpets&field-keywords=cat+scratcher


Oh and thanks for not considering declawing the cat!! Sorry if this doesn't really answer your question.

This is my cat Stonewall (yes my reddit name is after her) I adopted her from a shelter 2 years ago & fell in love. [Here](<a href="http://imgur.com/JC3eyt8"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/JC3eyt8.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>) she is when I first got her from the shelter in the "get to know you room"
This is a good toy for her or this to help with grooming because she sheds so much!
Since I am a cat person I would want to spend the day with Viktor the Hypnocat. I think a laser would be a great toy for Viktor!
I want to be friends with Hanners and Viktor!

I'm a new cat owner and I've done a ton of research into automatic litter boxes myself. The only conclusion that I've been able to come to is that they all pretty much suck. They either jam up, don't clean well, break after a short life cycle, or have other issues. Even expensive units like the Litter Genie or the top end Litter Maid units are not without significant issues.

If you have questions about specific brands I'd be happy to share what I've learned.

Right now my cat is using the closest thing to self cleaning I could find, the Omega Paw Self-Cleaning Litter-Box.

If you have a cat that does not mind a covered box this thing is amazing. Cleaning the litter box is a 60 second process and I never have to touch pet waste. I can not recommend this product enough.

I'm no expert on dogs and litter boxes, so perhaps someone else in the community can help you out. My best guess would be to put the box of your choice in a location where the cat can get to it easily but the dog cannot get to it at all.

Best of luck with your kitty!

For the counter you can invest in Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent. Just set it on the counter where you don't want her to be and once it sprays air at her a couple of times, she'll no longer want to go there.

Does your office have a window? if it does you could set up a lounge for her near it so she can enjoy some "Cat TV" while you're working and not bother you.

It sounds like your roommate needs to invest in some cat toys and spending play time with their cat. Try to get the roommate to check out episodes of My Cat From Hell, Just watching it well help them/you learn about how to have a happy and content cat that doesn't annoy you, there is also a book by the host, either way you go it will definitely help in the bored kitty department.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Stainless-Multi-Pet-Fountain/dp/B002SB91QS/ref=zg_bs_2975263011_20?th=1

This is unfortunately pretty pricey($65~) but it is the best fountain that my girlfriend and I have found. We got tired of buying $20 and $30 fountains and having them break after only a few months. This one has been going strong for well over a year now and it is as good as new.

There is a plastic version of it but I liked the idea of stainless over plastic as it won't hold tastes and is much more durable.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-360-Pet-Fountain/dp/B001NIZAH6?th=1

Sup Hanners,

I'm Bailey. I'm a pretty great enormous Maine Coon cat who has lived in that basket since kittenhood, and deformed it into a shape and size that I can fit in.

I have a little brother, Captain Morgan. He is the worst. I did not want a brother. I do not like other cats. I am so much smarter than him that I spend a large portion of every day plotting his demise. He thinks that we are friends and tries to sleep on my majestic paws (which are essentially the size of his whole face).

I'd love to be petted instead of brushed.

I want to hang out with Hanners because what if Viktor also tries to sleep on my majestic paws? That will not do. I have never met a dog so maybe that will go better. I think you need this.

I want to be friends with Hanners and Viktor!

My cat loves this toy. He plays with it independently so he is much less needy when I get home from work. Cat towers also keep cats occupied because they love to climb. You can also keep him entertained with a feeding puzzle like this one. You seem to have a good play schedule, but maybe your cat just needs more mental stimulation! I understand you need to respect your roommates space, so hopefully adding some of these things into the cats life will help!

I also have a kitty that is a BIG boy and struggles a bit with weight due to living in a tiny NYC apartment. He has no interest in lasers at all, but I have had good luck with "dabird" feather toy (http://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Apart-Feather-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000F9JJJE) and mylar cat toys (http://www.amazon.com/MYLAR-Crinkle-Balls-Cat-Toys/dp/B00797NHFC). I switch him to Wellness CORE dry food and it has been wonderful! http://www.wellnesspetfood.com/recipes.aspx?pet=cat&ft=1

Not dog, but we have automatic feeders for our two cats and it’s been an absolute lifesaver! We originally got them to make things easier for pet sitters (one of our cats is on a special diet, gets over excited if not fed on time and vomits, AND is terrible at ad lib feeding. He literally eats until he can’t move; we tried it once and omg the diarrhea and labored breathing 🤦🏼‍♀️)
It can be programmed for as small as 1/8 cup and can do several times feedings throughout the day. They are battery powered (C or D, I can’t recall) and we haven’t had to change them in almost 2 years; though we will have to probably in the next month or so as it’s on it’s last bar.
I believe they are PetSafe brand and are about $135, but they have been worth every penny.
PetSafe Healthy Pet Simply Feed Automatic Pet Feeder, Dispenses Dog Food or Cat Food, Digital Clock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VIXRB6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dhlVCbFC2BFQK

the box is just a little bigger than our old box, but it's really cute. It's grey and purple and the litter are these cute little light blue crystals, hehehe.

He first bought the Litter Maid one... DO NOT get that one! It's so loud it will wake you at night and it broke a lot.

This is the one we have now... http://www.amazon.com/Brilliant-Pet-SX3-ScoopFree-Self-Cleaning/dp/B000ELUQQS

It's very, very quiet... I can't even tell when it's cleaning unless I'm looking right at it :)

(edit: we also have three cats, so I would imagine you'd have to actually actively clean it even less than once a week if you just have one)

Is getting him a companion an option? Our rabbits have become very content getting affection from each other, instead of obsessively demanding it from us when we're not available.

Wild rabbits maintain a range of 3-10 acres and live in social groups. This is what they're hardwired to want, so making them live solitary lives in small cages, with limited opportunities to forage and explore mean that we have smart little creatures who are lonely, bored, and full of energy. Factor in their crepuscular natures, and it's really a marvel that anybody with a pet rabbit gets to sleep at all.

Try to increase his exercise during the day and provide more stimulation to mimic what he'd get in a more natural habitat.

More run time and more exploration of new areas and spaces (even just rooms he's unfamiliar with) can give him much needed stimulation.

Increase his forage opportunities: If he gets pellets, try feeding them in a puzzle toy ([like this]{http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Egg-Cersizer-Meal-Dispensing-Cat/dp/B003H44R5K/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1417559491&sr=8-10&keywords=kibble+dispensing+toy}) so that he has to exert himself to get them. Similarly, we'll sometimes crumple the end of a cardboard tube, put pellets in, and then stuff the other side with crumpled paper or hay.

Getting up and feeding him to make him quiet down will only teach him that if he makes enough noise, he'll get what he wants.

First, congratulations! I'm excited for you. Reminds me of my first time and the excitement it brought. Here's a list of things I learned to keep on hand for my Dobbie:
 

• Oatmeal Shampoo - Oatmeal naturally conditions fur and keeps skin hydrated. My Dog had dandruff and I didn't want to get anything that was medicated. This shampoo helped keep the coat clean and shiny.
   
  
  
• Grizzly Salmon Oil Supplement - Most dog food sold in bulk is full of corn, grains and ground up tendons and bones. If you're not adding meats, whole grains, pumpkin, etc to his diet, just kibble by itself doesn't contain enough nutrients. Salmon oil was also recommended by my Vet. to help keep skin, coat healthy. Just a small squirt on top of kibble and he seemed to really love his meal.
   
  
  
• Grain free Turkey Jerky - All treats don't have to be biscuits or rawhide. These are some healthier alternatives and not that expensive either.
   
  
  
• High Quality Nail Clippers - If you plan on trimming his nails yourself. Mine wouldn't let me at first, but with some training, patience and treats, this became easier and saves atleast $10-$15 dollars each time on nail-trims at the groomers.

My kitties love playing in cardboard boxes and paper bags. They also love plastic straws and go nuts for the cat dancer. For when you aren't home, my cats play with the Peek-a-Prize toy and Catit Play Circuit. If you can afford it, a cat wheel is also great to keep him occupied.

Bathing a dog isn't solving the problem, it's just getting rid of the dandruff that's present.

As others have mentioned, start giving your dog some fish oil in his/her food. This is the one I get. It can be pricey, but it lasts quite a while. I put 1 or 2 squirts on top of the food each day. My dogs love it and their coats are great. I live in a very cold, dry climate too.

If you are going to shampoo your dog, use a shampoo with an oatmeal base. Something like this. As for frequency, you should refrain from bathing your dog as much as possible. In the spring, when it's muddy out I just rinse my labs with water in the tub. Once it starts to dry up outside, I give my dogs a good bath as they start to stink. That's probably the only bath (with shampoo) they get all year and they swim in a river everyday from April-October. Their natural oils will repel water and keep the stink off. The more your bathe your dog, the more you strip those oils and end up with a stinkier dog.

First off, good on you for taking the poor guy in!

Be prepared to have the smartest most neurotic and loving dog. My BC is wonderful and wouldn't trade her for anything. Just be aware that they need a lot of activity. Like A LOT. Like, go for a walk, then a run, then play frisbee, then go for another walk, then soccer. They are high energy, believe me. But it has gotten me off my ass and actually outside, which is a bonus for me.

Get one of those undercoat brushes as well like this They shed twice a year (spring/fall) and otherwise just a brushing couple times a week keeps mats from forming (they are prone to them, at least my girl is, on their hips and underbelly).

Food wise, check reviews and find a flavor/ingredient combo that works. My BC loves science diet salmon, but my corgi hates it, so she gets royal canin lamb.

My girl loves to dig herself a bed, not in the dirt, but on a tile floor...and in the bathtub. I'll set a blanket down and she'll drag the thing out of the way and dig and scratch on a bare surface. I mentioned neurotic right? :) Get Kong brand toys!!! They are the only thing she cannot destroy! Take a kong, fill it with yogurt (plain) and freeze it. When you go to work, take it out, throw it down, BAM! Keep him from chewing on your base molding. Get another kong, fill it with raw carrots, BAM! keep him from shredding your goddamn door mat. Get a pair of old denim jeans, cut off all the metal, tie some knots in it, BAM! Keep him from chewing the fuck out of the wall! How the hell do you chew a goddamn hole in the middle of a fucking wall Jackie!?! Seriously!?!

The short of it, buy a undercoat brush, LOTS OF EXERCISE (hell, that's good for all of us) and be prepared for a very loving and loyal companion. Cheers!

I use Precious Cat. I honestly don't know if it does anything, but it gives me a little peace of mind knowing I'm doing all I can.

Congratulations on your new kitty, hopefully the older boy will see her as a playmate!

> I haven't read the Entrepreneur Magazine article

You probably should have.

> hopefully you won't waste a bunch of money an idea someone else with better resources can make for cheaper.

No, the deal is this - the entrepreneur was selling his rugs for $40 a piece on Amazon while others were buying his rug and immediately re-selling it on ebay for $60.

> real entrepreneurship is not susceptible to arbitrage

No true Scotsman?

> some idiots cut some holes in old door rugs and had delusions of becoming the fulfilled prophecy of cat toys.

Yeah you should have read the article.

It is actually selling like hot cakes on Amazon. The price went up to $44 now.

https://www.amazon.com/Ripple-Rug-Activity-Interactive-Scratching/dp/B016H3T8EC

"#1 Best Seller in Cat Bed Mats"

I've used the PetSafe Healthy Pet feeder for years for my cats, it's pretty solid and easy to program. My only complaint is that food seems to go stale or off in the plastic bin on it, I solved that by just leaving the food in the bag and putting that upside down. It was great for cats so I could dispense a little bit throughout the day to keep them from waking me up early or nagging. Only reason I'm switching is to go to a microchip feeder because my current two need separate bowls/diets.

If I had to replace the auto-feeder with another auto-feeder, though, I would probably upgrade to the PetSafe Smart Feed which has WiFi and a more solidly attached bowl. I've seen that one go on good sales for Black Friday and Prime Day in July.

Kitten attractant is something already in litter made specifically for kittens. Dr Elsey's is the one everyone swears by (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009X49IC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468566476&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=kitten+attract+litter&dpPl=1&dpID=41BSeOetVsL&ref=plSrch). Also, pool noodles are an excellent idea. My kitten used to love to go behind the fridge until I wedged some between the tight spot she squeezed through and the fridge. Good luck.

We have the ball, but we block a couple of the holes with tape.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-SlimCat-Meal-Dispensing-Great-Treats/dp/B0018CG40O/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=feeding+puzzle&qid=1571606555&sprefix=feeding+puzz&sr=8-9

This one is our favorite and it is funny to watch

https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Senses-2-0-Food-Tree/dp/B00D3NI31Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=feeding+puzzle&qid=1571606555&sprefix=feeding+puzz&sr=8-15

And we originally got this one, made them super angry but now they like it

https://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-Feeder-Bloat-Outward-Purple/dp/B00FPKNRG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=feeding+puzzle&qid=1571606724&sprefix=feeding+puzz&sr=8-16

We switch up what one we feed them in to keep it interesting. They are much happier now, less destructive, and are kept entertained

I order a hell of a lot from amazon, but I have amazon prime for free (student). So 2 day shipping is free. I order most everything on there that I can wait 2 days on.

The only thing I don't order a ton of is clothes. Even if I like it, it's always tough to tell if it will fit properly. I only get clothes if it's cheap enough where it won't be a huge loss if it doesn't fit right or I don't like it. I'm talking 10 dollars or less. But recently I just invested my time into honing my wardrobe into a "capsule wardrobe" so I don't feel the need to buy new clothes anymore unless it's a size issue.

I got my macbook air, just 1 generation before this one, for 700 dollars on Amazon.

Recently I got:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UMX0TC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DK2A8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WODP20/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CZ6XVNA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this was .89 cents when I ordered it)

So much more on my wishlist too.

Hiya, you won't need a furminator immediately. Don't worry about that for now. If you keep your MCs well brushed, you don't have the matting or knotting problem. We do not use the furminator daily. As for great, long lasting, inexpensive brushes, my wife loves this style here, and I love this style here. Actually that is a bad example because you would probably not use the brush much. The main thing is the long thicker stainless pins. Since they have metal teeth, they clean well. A clean tine goes through fur better than a tine that has a grime build up.

Have you decided on litter boxes? We found that once they got full sized, there was NO litter boxes that fit ours, and we had to improvise.

Can't wait to see pictures of yours. Here's ours.

Actually the BEST thing I've used (and I've tried a ton of things) is this rock! It's amazing and I recommend it to all of my pet owning friends!

WRX and Shepherd owner here, proof if needed and because she is cute...

I don't have the limited package for my WRX, so hair can be quite an issue with her tagging along in the back. But someone mentioned to me a while back on this sub to pick up a pet hair removal stone (yeah, weird concept I know), which along with a vacuum works pretty damn well.

I wouldn't recommend the stone for delicate cloth, but my seats seem fine and it really does a good job of loosening the hairs and picking them up for easier vacuuming.

Also, good looking Shepherd and color combination on the Subie!

I got it off amazon:)
It’s overpriced for what it is but he really likes it ¯_(ツ)_/¯

SnugglyCat The Ripple Rug - Made in USA - Cat Activity Play Mat - Thermal Base -Fun Interactive Play - Training - Scratching - Bed Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016H3T8EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_us4HDbF97SSC7