Reddit mentions: The best cat repellents & training aids

Your problem is... you have a kitten.

Honestly, all of this sounds like a normal young cat with a lot of energy who's bored out of her mind. Different cats have different energy levels, and your mom also had multiple cats together. Your kitten is alone, so all of her entertainment comes from you or from finding things to do herself, many of which won't please you. I would check out something like this book, which is a quick, easy read and covers strategies for all of the problems you're having. In brief, here are some things to try:

• Scratching: Offer lots of acceptable scratching surfaces, both vertical and horizontal. Sisal posts and pads as well as cardboard are all great and really cheap. Put them in areas where your kitten likes to scratch. If you see her scratching the carpet, pick her up and gently move her to the scratching toy. If necessary, reward her with a treat the first few times she uses the toys.
  
• Scratching: At the same time, you want to make the carpet less appealing to scratch. Try putting down double-sided tape or tinfoil in the affected areas. Both of these are cheap, easy to remove, and won't hurt the cat or the carpet.
  
• Scratching: Keeping the cat's claws trimmed will also reduce her need to scratch, but keep in mind that scratching is completely healthy and necessary for all cats. (For one, it's how they stretch their back muscles.) If you're totally unable to get the scratching under control with toys, you might also look into getting Softpaws for her, but you probably won't need to.
  
• Activity at night: Cats are most active in the evening by nature; they're technically crepuscular. To help you get your sleep anyway, you'll need to do multiple play sessions in the afternoon and evening. Yes, that takes time, but it's a pretty fun investment in a good night's sleep. Laser pointers, Da Bird-style toys, and this weird thing are all great for high-energy play. Cat playtime should mimic hunting and stalking prey, so avoid just waving a toy in her face (which can get the cat frustrated and more wound up). Hide the toy in various spots around the house, peeking out just a bit, and make her hunt it. Make her run and jump. With my 16-month-old, playtime isn't really done until he actually starts panting. (Be reasonable with this, obviously.)
  
• Meowing: I would revise feeding times. Ideally, you should play with the kitten before bedtime, then feed her. That way she'll be worn out and ready for a long nap when you go to bed. If you're currently free-feeding, consider moving to one or two distinct feeding times. This will allow you to make food a bonding event, and if you play with her before feeding time, you'll also reinforce the sense that she's hunted successfully and can now settle down. Important: Avoid feeding her first thing in the morning, which will encourage her to meow at your door to get you out of bed. My cats eat dinner when I come home from work, then have playtime and treats right before bed. (They eat high-quality dry food for treats, but they're kind of weird.)
  
• Activity at night: Simply speaking, your cat gets bored at night, so offer entertainment that doesn't involve harassing you. There are lots of inexpensive toys she can use by herself, including puzzle toys that dispense treats. Leave her with one or two each night; change it up to keep her interested. A cat tree by a window can be a good way to let her observe nocturnal wildlife and secure her territory, and it can be a good place for her to sleep as well. If you can get her sufficiently worn out before bedtime to make this feasible, I've found that letting my cats sleep in my bedroom actually keeps them calmer and quieter. They take their cues from us settling down and going to sleep, and they feel safe to do the same. My older cat would meow at the door all night when she was young too, and we didn't start getting normal sleep until we let her sleep with us.
  
• Deterrents: You've already figured this out, but punishing cats doesn't really work. They don't understand what's going on and can get anxious and neurotic, and if they're sufficiently bored, even getting water sprayed at them can be a fun way to get attention. The best way to modify cat behavior is usually to offer more fun and interesting alternatives, while making the undesirable behavior less fun and more difficult. In your case, your kitten has figured out that meowing at your door will get you to interact with her for a solid hour and a half. To avoid this, something like the Ssscat may be a good way to keep her away from the door at night without interaction from you. However, you'll have to do this in addition to, not instead of, all the stuff above; otherwise she'll just meow at your door from three feet away.
  
  Good luck!
  
  Edit: I fail at Reddit formatting, apparently. ;_;

XD There we go, jealous babe but a smart babe. He knows when you'll be without your kid and is excited for it. Kudos to Pidgey for figuring it out but he's definitely too strong about his mommy time.

Seeing the picture puts more context into it too, I swear, Siamese cats are a different creature sometimes!

Is the main issue the fact that he wakes you up too early or the attention? There are different options for both.

One, which may help the situation as a whole, is promoting plenty of time with both Pidgey and the baby. Hold the baby and play with Pidgey, use special toys, or offer special treats.

The more he associates your new babe with positivity the better. He'll begin to enjoy time when you're with the baby more (because more fun comes of it) and will feel that attention meter filling up. That's the first approach I would suggest. It will take time but it's a good, lasting, fix.

As your child grows let them be the one to set down the food for the cats, should problems persist. Positive reinforcement is the best thing to use with a cat, unlike a dog 'no' isn't often going to help. Not because they don't understand it but ANY attention is good attention to a cat.

The second option is to get a motion activated spray canister https://smile.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550332210&sr=8-3&keywords=motion+air+cat+deterrent A touch expensive but they should learn fast. The key here is that the can does the work, he doesn't see YOU giving the punishment. That means that the door becomes the bad place not you. Another key for training cats. You could also use a can of keyboard cleaner and spray it yourself but this would be more consistent and far enough away from the bed that it shouldn't bother baby.

Both options can be used in tandem as well for faster results but I always suggest going for one method at a time. That way, if there are any behavioral issues stemming from a fix you know which fix caused it.

My cat plays hard too. Undercover (different brand names, but I have the purple one) has this rod that rotates in circles with fabric over the top. Two AA batteries will last it quite some time. (SmartyKat Hot Pursuit Cat Toy Concealed Motion Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZTCW94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zDtEybK2W9YAK)

The hexbug I spoke of is about the same price but you'll only find it online on amazon or ebay. It's this tiny nano but thing that zooms all over the floor (hard floors only) and when my cat bats it over it gets back up. With this one you just have to make sure it's in a space where it won't get stuck so you have to fish it out (under the fridge for example) (Nano Robotic Cat Toy (White/Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RWU17KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9DtEybKTBTQHP)

A daily dose of catnip calms my buddy down as well.

Ssscat:
PetSafe SSScat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PFtEybJ577FA5

You can actually buy cheaper air cans than the brand name for refills.

Here's a different brand--more budget friendly: SENTRY Stop That! For Cats, 1 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EG8LIN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2HtEyb200JW77


Pheromone diffuser: Comfort Zone Feliway Diffuser Kit for Cats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I9SI40S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kJtEybF3F4QSX

Remember, chewy.com is your friend. They may have some of these items for cheaper.


Also remember that cats don't understand punishment. If you yell or try to correct, sometimes they'll continue the behavior to seek attention even if it's negative attention. Best thing to do is to be consistent with your reactions and redirect the behavior of possible (example: cat scratches furniture---redirect by placing cat on cardboard scratch pad with catnip each time) and give your cat what he needs. Sounds like he has a lot of energy. So a toy that plays with him when you aren't able may be helpful. Pheromone diffuser was really helpful for my cat when he was so stressed from moving that he got sick.

My cat used to be extremely Velcro. He would cry like hell if I closed a door on him. So I don't anymore. He follows me from room to room most often but does his own thing. When he starts meowing I know he needs play time or food or enrichment of some kind. When I go to bed, he goes to bed. He doesn't sleep with me usually. Most often under the bed or on his cat tree.

Groupon, chewy.com, or amazon, or even EBay are good places to get the items I mentioned for less.

Nutrition is also really important for a cats health. Dry food is actually really bad for its health. Can cause urine crystals, weight gain, dehydration, etc. Even if it's just friskies it's better to have wet food than dry if you're on a budget


As for your boyfriend, try having him see a doctor to get on seroquel if he's able. Its often prescribed to people for sleeping problems. I take it, and within the hour I fall asleep and don't wake up until 8 hours later. Also tends to help with mood problems for some people. Kratom is a great natural opiate/pain reducer that is taken in pill form. You can find it at some vape/smoke shops. It's much less addictive and better long term than vicodine and its siblings.. Obviously I'm not a doctor or anything so take this advice with a grain of salt.

Personally, I'd say the cat can tell that you don't like him in that you're actually paying more attention to him than you think you are. Every time you pick him up and move him or talk to him or shoo him away you're interacting with him, which is what he wants, attention. And now he's afraid of you so he matches your frustration in some actions and you apply your feelings to him for the other ones. So first things first, ignore him completely. Don't look at him don't pet him don't react positively or negatively to his actions. Especially the peeing thing, don't just stare at him. If you do want to play with him pick a room or a place and only play with him there and ignore him the rest of the time. That way he associates playing with you with that spot. A bell on his collar might be a good idea if you want to be able to tell where he is so you don't accidentally pay attention to him.

Secondly, for the peeing. Make sure you clean that spot with an enzymatic cleaner. Nature's Miracle is a really good one. Clean that spot OBSESSIVELY. As soon as he pees there. Then provide better alternatives. How many litter boxes does he have? Are they in a private calm spot? How often do they get cleaned? Have you tried putting a litter box over that spot and then slowly moving it to another room if he starts using it? http://www.catbehaviorassociates.com is often linked here. Check it out for litter box help (and help with the other stuff too).

For keeping him off furniture I would try remote methods. That way he has bad associations with those surfaces and NOT you or his owner. Something like the scat mat or sssscat. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/petsafe-scatmat-indoor-pet-training-mat

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Sticky-Deterrent-White/dp/B007I08FI4/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VVYJYPG4MSAWVGJQB5C9

Eventually he'll get the hint and stay off those surfaces. You can also reward him for hanging out where you want him to hang out by leaving treats hidden in "his spots". And same for the peeing problem, you have to provide preferable alternatives in addition to the negative reinforcement. If you don't want him on your surfaces you have to provide higher surfaces that are HIS. Cats like to be high up. You're never going to get him off the surfaces without providing an alternative for him. Look into Jackson Galaxy's Cat Super Highway or "catification".

Finally, this cat seems bored. I would make sure he has plenty of stuff to play with on his own or that his owner is putting at least an hour a day into playing with him (think of it like walking a big dog. The dog needs that activity or else it goes nuts cooped up). You don't mention how old he is but younger cats or high energy cats need A LOT of play time. He's looking to you for entertainment and interaction because it seems like you're the only option he has. If you don't want to be his source of attention, provide positive alternatives. (Also I would keep some treats on hand to bribe him out of your room if he gets in there again. You could probably train him to come when called no problem)

I'm a relatively new to cats myself so this is just stuff I've picked up in my research. Hopefully some of the more experienced cat people on here can help! Check out those links and just search through the archives on this subreddit for more ideas.

I also live in a two room apartment. Mine has access to every surface, but the food prep areas. I created a floor level, then a metre higher level. She can move across the space without touching the floor. I rent so it's a combination of little stools, boxes as tunnels, little cat bed on top of storage boxes, a pillow on my computer desk for her to sleep on. Make sure you use interactive toys and lots of play time. Set up little beds at windows with a view so they can watch cat tv (one of mine is a chest of draws with a blanket on top placed next to the window and I moved the curtain around the outside draws.

Have a look at harness training. Then you can take him out for a walk. I found this was a great way to calm mine when she was a kitten.

Foil is great to deter a kitten from doing something. When mine was that young all my walls and doors were covered in foil because she was starting to scratch at the walls. Hang your towels and place your toilet paper higher up and out of reach. Also look into a double side sticky tape, or http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G. Consider getting a water fountain so he has fresh water. Allot of annoying kitten behaviour goes away when they find something else to play with.

I don't have any littler smells, but I scoop twice a day. I use a litter which is flushable and poos get flushed straight away. Invest in a blacklight as it can help find any urine or spraying in your house. Is he desexed yet?

When mine was that young her bed was next to the litter, due to having a small bathroom. I used a carrier with blankets inside. Which she continued to use as her safe spot for months after she was allowed out all night. She now uses the carrier to stand on and give me noise kiss while i am on the loo.

The Turbo Scratcher is a good interactive--no you required--toy, and it doubles as a scratcher, bed and ambush station. I recommend a wand toy like Da Bird for playing with your cats yourself.

Cats are semi-arboreal (tree-dwelling), so making sure there are lots of places to perch up off of the ground is good, be it cat trees or just making space for your cat to leap and lay on shelves, bureaus, & et cetera. Perches on windowsills are especially nice, as is having a bird feeder in view for "kitty TV".

Remember, cats sleep A LOT, an average of 15 hours a day and up to 20 hours in a 24-hour time period. While you're gone, they're not going to spend a lot of time bored, they're going to spend a lot of time asleep.

Pre-emptively, here's Jackson Galaxy on how to make your cats let you sleep, which includes tips on diet and play for indoor cats. Jackson Galaxy in general is a wealth of information.

Try SSSCAT for your counters. They're automatic, so they'll deploy consistently, which is key for effective training.

I suspect that if you've ruled out medical causes for the wee, it may be that your indoor-outdoor cat thinks the world is her litterbox. Here's Jackson Galaxy's pee/poop problems page. Make sure you have 1 litterbox per cat plus 1 and at least 1 box per floor in a multi-floor home. Additionally, ensure the locations aren't in high-traffic or noisy areas. You DO NOT want your cat spooked in their litterbox, which can cause aversion.

As for your bed, definitely invest in a waterproof mattress cover for the training/transition period (it's nice for mattress longevity in the face of sweat in the first place) and be sure you wash wee'd on spots with an enzyme-based cleaner like Nature's Miracle. If you don't, the cat can still smell the wee, and even a healthy, litter-trained and secure cat will wee over the smell of wee.

I have a cat shopping list for myself, here are some links to a few of the things I plan to purchase and thought could help you.

I would consider getting as many of these covers as necessary, and a few scratching posts to put nearby.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XV586VQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kWzyDb2V14202

You could also try placing these in front of or on top of the couch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iZzyDbHT6AA8Q
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017XBDPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KZzyDbXTT8JGG

They also make claw covers that come in multiple colors. Regardless of what you do, please don't discard your cat, and do your best to trim his nails. I use this one, it's pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JENKK8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P3zyDbQCRECV3

Remember that encouraging good behavior with treats and appropriate outlets for scratching is vital to the health of your pet and the sanity of your household. Do your best not to punish, simply redirect them to a better option. (Basically put the cat scratching posts near the couch or any problem areas while covering the furniture with hard plastic to redirect his energy.)

SSSCAT Cat Trainer
http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

This is a canned air device with a motion activated sensor. Just put it outside your door at night and when the cat approaches the door it will spray. Hopefully discouraging this behavior.

You could also try placing packing tape sticky side up around the door (or maybe aluminum foil). I hear these can deter cats, though they have no effect on my cat.

It sounds as though the cat is likely bored. Maybe getting some self play encouraging toys. They have kinds with a laser pointer. I personally have a "weezle ball" (a battery operated rolling ball with a fuzzy creature attached) I'll turn it on and let kitty play with it. It keeps her busy and happy, but out of my way so I can focus on other things.

I certainly wish you the best and hope you find a solution. Please work hard with your cat before resorting to getting rid of her.

Hi! What kind of cat is Arya? I'm sure she's a mutt, but does she seem to be close to a particular breed? That might explain the meowing. I have a tortie, who was insanely vocal until she was about 4-5 years old. It got better every year, but the only options are to ignore it, so she learns it gets her nothing, or close her in the bedroom. She'll meow for a while, then lay down to take a nap. She's also still young. She has a lot of energy. Are you playing with her? Laser pointers, string, maybe get a bird feeder, to attract birds that she can watch? She's meowing because she's bored.

For the scratching, you should start clipping her claws now, while she's young. Here is a good guide on how to do that. It will help reduce the frequency with which she'll need/want to scratch. Also, use claw covers while she's young. She won't get into as much of a habit of scratching her claws. Lastly, spray the furniture with bitter apple spray. She won't like how it makes her paws taste, she'll start staying away. Oh, and double sided sticky tape. All of this just to her favorite spots.

I did this with my kitten, and now she only scratches furniture/carpets when she has no other options, she's stressed, or super bajiggity, and I'm ignoring her. Good luck!!

okay person, here's how you do it with cats. If you value your cats, train them. I've trained my cat to Sit, Scratch, and Run on his exercise wheel on command. He is also trained "Gentle" to stop playing / drop claws, "git" to go to ground level if he's on something, and Come when called by name. Cats LOVE structure. Cats like rules and consistency. They don't like change (who does!?) and while it can be hard to see them struggle with adjustments, they will be okay, and it might end up being a lot happier long-term for everyone if you learn to teach them structure and rules in how they interact at home, starting with this.

Training that Meowing =/= attention (open door)

• Cats meow to communicate with us. Cats operate under the "If I do X, I get Y" premise. So if your cat meows and then you give them attention, they learn that. So you have to ignore it. and it will get worse before it gets better, like a kid throwing a temper tantrum to get what they want. Your cat will start by normally meowing, and scratching. They may increase the volume of their meowing and start yowling. They may start body slamming themselves against the door. You have to ignore it. This is where some of the training tools below will help.
  
• Get a deterrent to keep that makes their interaction with the closed door unpleasant. That could be double-sided sticky tape. Maybe a Motion-sensor spray. Or it could be something like putting down a matt that makes being in front of the door impossible /unpleasant. I found that an upside down office chair mat (spikes up) worked pretty well for training my cat to avoid certain areas.
  
• Get some earplugs and find something for some ambient white noise to help making dealing with any meowing / yowling easier.
  
• Only open the door when it is quiet. This trains the cat that quiet = open door.
  
• When you DO open the door, ignore them for a good 10 minutes. This prevents them from learning open door = attention + good things immediately.
  
  I would recommend in addition to this, you work on rewarding quiet behavior through the linked process of training to sit, then training to be quiet. It's a lot harder with two cats, but all cats can be trained. it's def a lot more work than dogs since cats only learn via rewarding positively, and not via punishment.

Ok, there's the issue. Call your vet and see if you can get him fixed now. He's likely getting restless because he's maturing. He doesn't need to be 6 months to get fixed, it won't make him a "girly" cat if he gets fixed before that point.

Stop trying to "punish" him. Cats do not respond to punishment like a dog or a child would. They are more likely to see it as a game (avoid the water spray!, you holding him down = wrestling, etc.) or start to fear you if it hurts or makes them too uncomfortable. Putting him in "time out" in a bathroom or hallway is ok, but don't use his crate for this. It will just make him want to avoid it, making necessary trips, like to the vet, harder later on.

Another thing that may help is for you to make sure you are playing with them enough. Kittens require a ton of play time to burn off energy, and just letting them play and wrestle together won't be enough. You need to play with them using a wand style toy or playing "fetch" with them for at least 45 minute to an hour every day. They need to get running back & forth through your home and jumping after the toy at the end of the wand until they don't want to chase it any more and may even be panting a bit. Cats will also get a second wind after a bit, and a third, fourth and even a fifth sometimes, so don't give up the first time they do.

As for keeping him out of and off of things, try taping slightly rumpled foil or putting double sided tape on the counters when you aren't using them. There is also a device called a Sscat which is a great way to deter them from certain areas without you having to be directly involved, so they are less likely to develop a negative association with you specifically.

This may be kinda lower tech (not really since it includes a motion sensor) but I have had great luck with 4 different cats (2 of mine and 2 of my parents) with this device. I've also recommended it to friends who have also been successful with it. It's also low cost enough to warrant giving it a try.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G

I'm dealing with the exact same issue, our boy has start pawing at the bedroom door and the rattling is becoming too much to handle. Glad to have your insight on the motion sensor air spray as that was the option my fiance was considering. We haven't tried this personally yet, but I was looking into a ScatMat. It seems like it would extend far enough in front of the bedroom door so our cat can't just try to lean his way against it to paw. Good luck and I would love to hear about any results!

HAVE YOU TRIED SSSCAT?!?! Our kitten is very frisky at night, so we bought this product off Amazon called Ssscat—essentially a canister of compressed air that has a motion detector on it and releases a puff of air if kitty walks by. Not enough to really scare him, but enough to deter the behavior! We use it outside our bedroom and it has HONESTLY been a lifesaver because kitty doesn’t bug us every night!!! He doesn’t even really try to get inside anymore. Just bought one for the guest room for when people sleep over. Can’t recommend highly enough! You’re $30 away from better sleep.

Buy Ssscat on Amazon

I'd recommend you buy a Ssscat. I place mine right by the door facing perpendicular to the threshold so that if my cats want to come scratch the door/carpet right in front of the doorway, it triggers and scares them off. It's motion sensored to trigger a harmless blast of air. Should work perfectly. :)

In addition, it's great for keeping cats off counters or wherever else they shouldn't be. The downside is you do have to buy refills eventually, I feel like the fact that I can place it pretty much anywhere is worth it.

After driving from AZ to upstate NY with 4 cats last summer by myself, I think I'm qualified to answer this question!

After doing lots of research I bought this Petego Pet Tube Kennel and it worked out great! I didn't buy the optional cushions, I just put a plush king blanket in there. It zips on both sides and has handles to carry. With you and your husband you'd easily be able to carry 3 cats in and out of hotels. I think my cats really liked it most because there was plenty of room and they could cuddle with each other.

I have an SUV so I had lots of room, I put all my boxes and stuff I was bringing in the back and then put the tube in lengthwise, with ends toward front of car and back, not side to side, it just worked out better for me that way.

Since it was such a long trip I didn't want them to be stuffed in the kennel all the time so I rigged a cargo net around the driver's seat and had suction cups and clips to pull it around all the way and attach to the window so the driver's compartment was completely enclosed. That way I could stop for gas and meals without having to worry about one of them jumping out, which was my biggest fear. It took me awhile to engineer before I left but it worked wonders. Before final stops for the night I'd pull over and wrestle them all into the kennel before opening any doors.

For the trip - Disposable kitty litter trays are a must. Portion their cat food into ziplock baggies. If you intend on letting them out at all in the vehicle as I did then cover everything with sheets. If you're going to keep them in kennels bring extra pads and stuff for the inside so if they soil them you can change them out. Bring plenty of garbage bags to keep anything soiled in until you can wash.

It was hard finding pet friendly hotels along the way but I did manage it. I wanted to keep driving until I felt I had to stop so I didn't make reservations, just started calling hotels for availability I had previously researched in each city I thought I might stop in. I brought my own sheets and mostly stayed in cheap roadway inns with decent reviews that had exterior rooms to make it easy to get in and out. Bring a hand held vacuum too. You won't believe the mess your cats will make in the hotel room with their food and litter box. I also vacuumed as much hair as I could as well, I didn't think it was fair to leave a big mess for the staff (I'm a hotel manager myself). I would put the cats in the car and do a quick vacuum of the room before I left. The vac also came in handy when I had to leave the room and come back. I turned it on when I was about to open the door to scare them from trying to dart out. It worked wonders!

Also buy one of those $10 cardboard scratch pads from Walmart or a pet store and put it in the hotel room with you to (hopefully) keep them from clawing up the furnishings.

It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. My cats meow'd for the first half hour but settled in after that and pretty much just slept and slept and slept. They didn't really eat or drink in the car all day but they did when we were in the hotels. One would use the litter box in the vehicle (I had it behind the passenger seat so I could reach it to scoop) but the others only used it in the hotel room.

I had also bought Feliway spray and calming chews for the trip. I really don't know if either made a difference for them since I have no basis of comparison but I wanted to make sure I did everything I could to minimize their stress. They did like the flavor of the chews a lot.

Hope this helps!

For the counter you can invest in Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent. Just set it on the counter where you don't want her to be and once it sprays air at her a couple of times, she'll no longer want to go there.

Does your office have a window? if it does you could set up a lounge for her near it so she can enjoy some "Cat TV" while you're working and not bother you.

It sounds like your roommate needs to invest in some cat toys and spending play time with their cat. Try to get the roommate to check out episodes of My Cat From Hell, Just watching it well help them/you learn about how to have a happy and content cat that doesn't annoy you, there is also a book by the host, either way you go it will definitely help in the bored kitty department.

For the meowing before his feeding, have you considered getting an automatic feeder? Right now he meows to wake you up because he associates your waking up with getting food. You might have to put up with meowing for a few more weeks though. Or if you don't want to get the feeder, you could spend 10-15 minutes doing your morning routine (change, brush your teeth, eat breakfast etc.) after waking up before giving them food, so they don't think that you getting out of bed = food. I do this with my cats and it has worked for me.

For the scratching, you can also try using an automated spray like this that sprays out a loud puff of air whenever your cat activates it and put it near the doorway where you don't want him to be.

As for the biting, I've never experienced that problem myself but it sounds as though your cat is bored. I've read that having structured play time with him is important.

And yes, cats can totally be trained! I'm working on clicker training my cats myself and you'd be surprised at how smart they are. :)

Few tips:

• Dogs eat everything. If you put a bunch of sodium cyanide on the ground mixed with radioactive plutonium, a dog will eat it. Don't freak out. Dog's stomach acid is about 3 times stronger than ours. Most stuff won't kill a mal. However, get some hydrogen peroxide. If your dog eats something poisonous and it WON'T HURT HIM IF HE THROWS IT UP like it's not sharp or jagged, put a shotglass of peroxide in a dish with a bit of water and a bit of kibble. If he laps it up, take him for a walk immediately. In a block or two he will throw up. Peroxide does that. You can go to the vet for $500 or you can sped 5 cents on peroxide. I've done it twice. Once my dog ate an entire package of cotton swabs. I figured it would cause a blockage. He puked up basically a washcloth. He ate an entire bag of chicken wing bones. But that's too jagged to puke. So I fed him lots of bread/rice to pad it and make it less likely to hurt his intestines. He had no issues.
  
  
• Scat mat.https://www.amazon.com/d/Cat-Repellent-Mats/PetSafe-ScatMat-Indoor-Training-Electronic/B0007NTBJ6
  
  
• Dog drier for when it rains. I got one on Cyber Monday for cheap. No amount of towels will get a Mal dry.
  
  
• Obedience classes. But learn what you can change and what you can't. If you make training a fulltime job, you can change any behavior. But pick your battles. My dog doesn't jump up. But he's going to look at other dogs when they go by even a block away. He's going to try and lick up stuff/food on the ground. I could train for months to fix that, but fuck it. Just walk around or pull him away.
  
  
• Separation anxiety is often strong. Be consistent. Don't make a big deal about leaving. Leave often. Don't make a big deal about coming back.
  
  
• Mals are a full time job until they are 3. You will be super tired and anxious and have a rough time until 3. But it gets much easier at 3.
  
  
• Get a bicycle. Unless you're an Olympiad, it is hard to tire out a mal before you tire out and eventually break down. With a bike, you get to use a machine while they have to trot along. And they will trot. They aren't sprinters or huskies. There are some good products that have a pole attached to your seat for training. This makes it so that the mal has to pull your entire bike and your weight sideways if he wants to go off. That's damn near impossible. If you just hold his leash with your hand, however, your hand is on your handlebars and if he pulls, your front wheel will turns sideways and you will eat shit.
  
  
• Rake and slicker for brushing. You'll need both. Don't use furminator or those things. If you have groomers tell them that as well. Never cut their fur.
  
  
• Park city pets pet wipes. Every time we go out, I wipe my dog down. One side is everything from crotch to bottom of feet. Other side is his butt-butt. He was meh about it at first, now he will often smile. I tend to hum or sing as I wipe him.
  
  
• Mals are tough. They rough house. They aren't children and they aren't pottery. Feel free to play rough with them. Make games. I tease my dog constantly and he always smiles and plays back.
  
  
• Be the alpha. If I want my dog somewhere I move him. I will push him if he's in my way or I will say MOVE. And he will move. Mals are too big and strong for you to not be in control.
  
  
• Socialize early and often. Hang around people. They love people and kids. Hang around dogs. Let him learn how to play. Or when he's big and scary he's going to have to learn stuff and it has more consequences then.

>Ours will howl and bash on the door when we kick them out, which presumably won't help a baby sleeping.

My cat does this also if she's kicked out of the bedroom. She usually sleeps with us from whenever I go to bed till around 5am when she goes into "play mode" and starts running around the room getting into everything being super noisy. So usually around 5am we'll put her outside the room and close the door so she can go play literally anywhere else in the house but she more often than not comes back to the door to bang on the door and yowl. The solution my husband and I have found is to place a Scccat cat sprayer by the door so when she comes to the door to bang on it the sprayer sprays her with a little puff of air that scares her away. It isn't like it's hurting her or anything but she's scared enough of it to leave the door alone which means we get to sleep in peace.

And for what it's worth the Ssscat is great for training cats to stay off kitchen counters and things like that also. We originally got it for our older cat (who is now an outdoor cat due to other issues) to keep him off the kitchen counters and it worked like a charm after about 2 weeks of kitty jumping on the counter, getting sprayed, and running away. Eventually he just stopped jumping up at all and we were able to put the Ssscat away.

Rescue Remedy(pet formula) This works wonders for kitty aggression!


http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dgarden&field-keywords=rescue+remedy+pet+formula&rh=n:1055398,k:rescue+remedy+pet+formula&ajr=3

Plus, Feliway spray. This to calms them down when aggressive. Each product is a non-medication tool I use to keep my cats happy.

http://www.amazon.com/Feliway-ORMD-D-Behavior-Modifier-Spray/dp/B001GQI8SS/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1299809826&sr=1-3

I also have a female who gets slightly aggressive when shes done being petted and is moody with the others. I use both products when needed. They work wonders together. I have to use it less and less now that I can 'read' her signs better. I can tell when I need to get my face away and stop touching her. When she first started acting like that I was at a loss. She could be ok one second and swipe at me the next. Now when petting her I pet, and stop and watch her reaction and if she gives me the ok, I pet again. I'm patient with her and allow her to tell me what she wants. Now it rarely happens if ever.

Be patient and I know this sounds kinda silly to some but don't take it personally. :-) Also, I am not affiliated with these products in any way. I've posted advice with these products because for me they have been a god-send and I wish I'd had them when I got my first cat.

All my best to ya!

The shock mats will not harm the cats, they are very effective and not painful, it's just a small zap its not like you are electrocuting them. Invite your roommates to put a hand on one so they understand. You could place one in your doorway and one on your shelf.
Or you could get a Ssscat canister that sprays citronella water when motion is detected in front of it, put that in your doorway/shelf (you can step over it to avoid it) https://www.amazon.com/Innotek-PDT00-13914-Ssscat-Spray-Kit/dp/B000RIA95G

You could stack another baby gate on top of the one you have so they can't jump over it.

Fridge lockers are also a thing, https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Fridge-Locker-Food-Safe/dp/B07FN1CGPY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=refrigerator+locker&qid=1574482341&sr=8-2, you could get another one to keep in your room for dry goods.

I'm sorry about your situation, I hope these suggestions make it a little better. The best you can do is save up to live on your own as quick as possible and look forward to that day.

Best way to clean it: Natures Miracle. I buy it literally by the gallon.
Deep clean everything he had peed on, then DOUSE it in nature's miracle.
Afterwards, treat it with: Feli-way (http://www.amazon.com/Feliway-Behavior-Modifier-Spray-75/dp/B001GQI8SS).

These are the best treatments to clean up/prevent them peeing without potentially harming your cat.

Put a litter box (buy a new one, yes...you may need to have multiple boxes) right by your bed. If you're worried about litter everywhere, put a towel/rug under it and invest in a hand held vacuum if you don't have one already. After a few weeks, if he uses it consistently, slowly move it (like 6inches-1 foot a day...) back to where you had it first.

If that doesn't work, you might consider switching litters. I like Swheat Scoop, as it clumps well.

Be sure to clean your litter box 1-2 times a day. It's annoying and even though all the books say you should, so few people bother to because cats will use it anyway. But once I did this, my cat started using her box again.

(Worst case scenario is that your cat may have a UTI, which leads to them urinating in unwelcome spots, but the addition of a new kitten is more likely).

Also, puppy pads are something you might want to try for a temporary fix.

Chronic vomiting in cats is not normal! It drives me insane when I hear that vets have told owners that nothing is wrong with their cat that pukes every day. You see any wild cats doing that, vet? Cats are essentially physiologically unchanged from their wild ancestors - they should not be puking out their guts.


Before we look into things - wet food should be a cat's only source of food. http://catinfo.org/ for all the reasons never to feed kibble again. No joke, no more kibble, not even "special magical prescription kibble the vet insists you have to buy". The reason - cats are descended from desert critters who have a low thirst drive. They are designed to get their "moisture needs" from their prey - namely, meat. Kibble is a completely unnatural food for them (and it doesn't "clean their teeth" like some people will tell you!) When we feed them dry food, we literally force our cats into a state of constant dehydration. My cat ate kibble for the first 14 years of her life - I didn't know any better then. Then she was diagnosed with kidney failure - she had lost over 75% of her kidney function and was not expected to live another 6 months. I switched her to an all-canned diet immediately and eventually to a fully-raw diet, and she is still happy and healthy four years later at age 18! She loves her raw food and has the appetite and energy of a cat a third her age.


So I am a huge proponent of canned food diets for cats. ESPECIALLY males - Dr. Pierson's site above goes into some of the horrible urinary tract problems male cats can develop when they are on kibble.


So - we have to start at the beginning to help your little guy. When does he vomit? Does he vomit IMMEDIATELY after eating, or some time later? Does he puke white foam, green foam, or partially-digested food? Have you offered him "cat grass"?


http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?A=2809 - helps you determine whether your cat is vomiting vs. regurgitating.


This site has a chart that may help: http://www.vin.com/apputil/content/defaultadv1.aspx?meta=Generic&pId=11343&id=5124222


And this is an excellent paper/info packet on feline vomiting except for their recommendations on completely inappropriate kibble diets:

http://www.cliniciansbrief.com/sites/default/files/attachments/Vomiting%20Cat%20Cases.pdf


Basically what we're getting at is, your cat's problem could be as simple as excess stomach acid. You can literally give a cat Pepcid - in a much smaller dose - for the same reasons a human would be using Pepcid. I'm going to link you to Tanya's CRF site, which is a site for kitties with chronic kidney failure (like mine), but the medication/vomiting info might still be helpful:

http://www.felinecrf.org/nausea_vomiting_stomach_acid.htm#acid_blockers


I wouldn't necessarily jump into medicating your little guy with Pepcid off the bat - though it probably won't hurt him - without discussing it with a vet first.


Some of the treatments I'd start out with -


-Raise his food dish. Either get an elevated food dish such as https://www.amazon.com/Necoichi-Raised-Cat-Food-Bowl/dp/B00KAV98ES/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480926103&sr=8-2&keywords=elevated+cat+food+bowl or https://www.amazon.com/Bowl-Food-Water-Elevated-Stand/dp/B01K5MH5VY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480926092&sr=8-3&keywords=elevated+cat+food+dish - this can help a TREMENDOUS amount.


-Feed him small portions more often (schedule permitting). For example, if you usually put the whole can of cat food in his dish at once, put only 1/4 of the can. Let him eat it all and wait 10 minutes. See if he vomits. If he doesn't, you can offer another 1/4 of the cat. Space out the meal if you can, or feed him small portions throughout the day. He'll need some adjustment time as he will feel as though he is "starving to death" in the meantime, but this can help if he's overeating or eating too fast and vomiting because of that.


-As someone else mentioned, try a truly "limited ingredient" canned food such as Natural Balance, or try freeze-dried raw food or frozen raw. My cat is on a fully-raw diet, and although it IS expensive, it is literally a miracle. I have a friend in Arizona whose cat was a chronic puker, plus had chronic diarrhea, before switching to a raw diet.


I know I tossed a lot of info at you at once - my apologies! But your kitty's case definitely isn't hopeless and you shouldn't have to be resigned to cleaning up vomit for the rest of his life.

I use a motion activated cat deterrent. It works well to keep my dogs away from things. Training her to stay away might be a better solution, but sometimes the temptation is just too much. I had to use this with a rescue that would not leave the trash alone, no matter how much I worked with her. She was very underweight and food motivated so the trash was just too much to pass up. Good luck!

That's her on the right. Looking quite smug.
http://imgur.com/kbnAeGB


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RIA95G/ref=s9_mbia_gw_d85_g199_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-1&pf_rd_r=0B24JQBEDW1CFPRQDJQF&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1824974342&pf_rd_i=mobile

Have you tried 20-30 mins of heavy play with his favorite toy and then a snack before you go to bed? That works best for my cats. Also look into Ssscat which is a motion activated air spray. You can put this outside the door and when he gets within a certain distance it will spray a stream of air, hopefully to deter him from the door.

This is a motion sensor device that shoots a focused blast of air. It's for cats but it's just as effective for birds. Scares the shit out of cats. PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EedvDb9SGHKSP

Diatomaceous earth and neem oil work well for me. I would definitely try these before using chemicals. I would sprinkle DE everywhere let's it sit for a few days vacuum/ sweep up extra. I also put under fridge, stove, back of cabinets, anywhere it won't bother me or don't see daily and just leave it there. I mix neem oil in a bottle with water and spray baseboards, doorways, back of closets, around outside and places I won't see daily. It is oil though, so don't put on clothing or anything.



Harris Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade, 2lb with Powder Duster Included in The Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728JL9SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Md7QDbPFJ8M6D

Verdana Cold Pressed Neem Oil 32 Fl. Oz - Unrefined, Filtered - High Azadirachtin Content - 100% Neem Oil, Nothing Added or Removed - Indoor/Outdoor Leafshine, Pet Care, Skin Care, Hair Care https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071S56419/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Zc7QDb1667W0F

Neem Oil!! It works great and is edible so you can actually eat the peppers after you've harvested them

Heres some on amazon. Just stay away from premade sprays and solutions. Oftentimes they contain roundup-like compounds

https://www.amazon.com/Verdana-Organic-Cold-Pressed-Neem/dp/B071S56419/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=neem+oil&qid=1563547473&s=gateway&sprefix=neem+&sr=8-5

Usually just stick to pure undiluted Oil and add about 2 tbs per gallon with a little bit of dawn dish soap (or another biodegradeable liquid soap) as an emulsifier.

Good luck with your Peppers! 🌶🌶🌶

We use Ssscat motion activated air sprayers to keep our critters away from places they're not supposed to be. You don't need to buy the proprietary refills, just get canned air from the office store. The cans are universal fit.

We've been using these things for years. There is also another version by a different company we found on Amazon that also beeps so you can use it even when the canned air runs out. I couldn't find the link for it at the moment though, but it is worth seeking out.

This is the original Ssscat. They are worth it.

PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CQg7AbV1EYM04

I recently tested positive for allergies cats/dogs/horses.

We have 4 cats and a dog. In hindsight, I should have known from the mild hives and itchy eyes but yeah. Some cats are worse than others and I feel like my body adjusts more toward my current pets than when I visit a strange dog, etc.

I take zyrtec 2x a day, once in morning once at night.

They're not allowed in the bedroom, and clothing is kept in the laundry room or bedroom, so minimizing hair on clean clothes at least.

I try to wash my hands before I touch my face/eyes.

I want to do allergy shots in the future, I think, but I don't think it's covered by my current insurance.

I saw further down your current apartment doesn't have doors - obviously that's not something you can easily change, but for the future, I'd work toward at least having a bedroom door.

It would help a lot having a 'safe zone' especially for sleeping. I used to sleep with my kitties and ended up using Ssscat to stop them from scratching to come in - totally fine now. Depending on your current kitties, if you have a doorway, it might be enough to stop them from coming in.

Cats want attention, whether it be positive or negative (they don't really know the difference). If they knock things off, they get attention. If you continually give them attention for these things, they'll keep on doing it. This is why you should ignore your cat at night if they are walking on you or messing with things; if he/she knows that doing this will get attention, they'll continue doing it. You're looking at a week or two of hell from them continuing to do it, but after they realize you won't engage they'll stop.

The best remedy is to use things like the SSSCAT, which has an infrared eye and will be triggered by the cat's presence on something they shouldn't be on. If you use a spray bottle, the cat will know it's you and will see that as "I did this and got attention from him." The SSSCAT, alternatively, will give make them think "table is super scary."

Source: I have a previously dickish cat who, as a result of a strategically placed SSSCATs, wouldn't dare go anywhere near my counter, dining room table, sink, desk, or bookcase.

I would suggest a ssscat spray can or ssscat mat. Worked like a charm for us! The mat is more of an investment up front, but you'll never need to purchase replacement cannisters:

https://www.amazon.ca/PetSafe-ScatMat-Training-Large-inches/dp/B0017XBDPA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ssscat&qid=1574462631&sr=8-5&th=1

Put the can or mat just outside your bedroom door and they'll either have the shit scared out of them by the spray can, or they'll get a mild shock from stepping on the mat (which is enough for them to learn not to go there).

For my one cat we bought her a stool that wad about counter height so she could watch what was going on and out worked. To train her, when we caught her on the counter we would place get on the stool and praise her. Other times i would place her on the stool and give her a treat. She quickly learned the stool was hers and she was happy.


My other cat was not so easily trained. For him we had to get SSScat spray. It's motion activated and sprays an air blast. A couple of these and your cat won't be back. http://amzn.com/B000RIA95G


If all else fails they do sell scat mats which give a mild shock when a cat walks on it. It sounds mean but the highest level is like a static shock. It did work. I had to use this for my smartest cat when everything else failed. http://amzn.com/B0007NWNM8


I find these things work better because they work whether you are there or not. All you cat has currently learned is he can't be on the counter when someone is in tha room. You didn't say anything about being on the counter when you are not in the room :)

Anybody that yells at my cats gets kicked out of my house. End of story. You train animals, or you modify your habits, but you don't scream at animals. I'll admit I've had an incident in the past where our dog, a rescue who was bred and abandoned, shit all over the floor rather than let us know she needed to go outside. For some reason she would sneak downstairs, poop (like, liquid poop, all over the living room), and then sneak back upstairs. After 3 times in one week, while scrubbing diarrhea out of the rug, I lost my temper and yelled at her. I felt terrible after because I knew she wasn't doing it out of malice, but we just could not figure out a way to train her out of this awful habit.

Okay, but that's still my fault, honestly. I'm the human. She's the dog. I needed to keep better track of her, figure out a way to let her out more, or just control my temper. And your SO needs to wash the freaking dishes!

Thankfully, cats are pretty easy to train away from doing things. [Here's a great product you can buy that sends out a burst of compressed air when it senses motion. It's perfect for training pets away from countertops.] (https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543245608&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ssscat&psc=1) Alternately, you can use spray bottles to spritz them when you catch them in the act. You can also spray your SO from time to time if he won't do the damn dishes. You should not have to be putting pans in the oven, dealing with ants.

I highly recommend getting a product called SSSCAT. It automatically sprays compressed air at whatever trips the motion detector. I've used it for a couple of months to keep my cats from getting behind the computer and on top of counters with great success.

Video of SSSCAT in action.

• Take your cat to the vet to make sure it isn't a health problem first!
  
• Get more litter boxes. Your oldest cat might be trying to stake territory in the new place by peeing on the mat. If your current box is closed/lidded, try an open one, or vice versa.
  
• Try different types of litter. You might try Cat Attract litter or additives.
  
• Try moving the cat box around. Maybe it is too close to his food, or to something that makes him feel less secure.
  
• Try cleaning the mat he has peed on with enzymatic cleaner. If a spot smells like his pee, he may continue to think that is where his pee goes.
  
• You can also try a Feliway diffuser or spray to try and calm your kitties. If he's peeing in the doorway because of stress, it might help.

ScatMat

This will be much better and safer. It also has the benefit of not being able to reset when you aren't there. With ideas like yours, cats often learn to set off traps so they can go do what they want anyway. The scatmat won't stop working after the cat jumps up the first time

We use SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent to keep our cats from coming up the stairs. So far so good.


Use duster cans for the refills. They're not as powerful, but the Petssscat refill cans are way overpriced.


If you find a substitute can that is a good price and just as powerful as the original cans, come back here and let us know!!

Get her a cat tower to climb on. Then reward her when she uses it. Hopefully she'll get the message...

This thing works pretty well too- http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

Walking is an excellent idea, particularly for an active breed like a manx!

I would also suggest a few extra things :

• interactive feeding toys. She will have to use her brain to get food out of a toy, and that will make her less bored and get some energy out. Just be sure to adjust her regular feedings so that she isn't getting extra calories, or even replacing the food dish with an interactive toy or interactive dish.
  Example 1 .example 2
  
• The SSSCAT training aid these work well to set boundries within the house for some cats. You could consider placing these next to your vents.
  
• Try to wear her out mentally and physically. I'm betting she would probably be a good cat to try to clicker train to do tricks. Clicker training can be excellent physical and mental stimulation. It sounds weird to train a cat and I've never done it with mine, but I see people who do it all the time online. Karen Pryor (she popularized clicker training) has a ton of cat training tutorials.
  
• This tape : Sticky Paws can be put on the slats of your vents. Most cats don't like the sticky feeling on their paws and will stop messing with what you put on them....this didn't work for my cat. My cat just licks the tape.

So there are these things called Soft Claws. They are little nail caps that you glue on your cat's nails to prevent them from damaging things when scratching. They work great!

If they are worried about him jumping on counters, there is this motion detect compressed air thing called SSSCat training aid. These are really great for keeping cats away from things you really don't want them to stay away from. I always use one for the Christmas tree. No kind of training will keep my cats away from the temptation of a Christmas tree! So these would really be useful for things that your cat is absolutely forbidden to jump on.

A good cat climber near a window in the common areas will reduce his interest to scratch up stuff as well.

We have used this to great effect with our dogs and cats. It doesn't hurt them at all, but they hate the spray and the noise it makes and it startles them into getting away from wherever they are.

I do have to admit that picture is hilarious though! Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G

and

https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Anti-Scratch-Training-2-5-Inches-Single/dp/B07663ZWRZ/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1540400458&sr=1-4&keywords=double+sided+tape+for+cat+scratching

has helped save our furniture. The Ssscats actually work so well we don't even need to fill them anymore, the cats just need to see them to stay away.

Two weeks may not be enough. Worst case scenario you can get a behaviorist to come visit too.

Good luck.

Punishing a cat is not a very effective deterrent. They rarely make the connection between what YOU think they've done wrong and the action that you take against them; to them, it just ends up looking like you've gone psycho and are attacking them for no reason.

I've found that it's best to have something up there that deters them the second they land after the jump. Foil, as u/DJEricDanger mentioned is a decent option. Sticky-side out tape loops are also very effective, tho they can get stuck on the cat's paws so they're best used when you're home. Aluminum cans with beads inside, strategically placed where the cat usually jumps up so that they'll get knocked over can work, too. Scat mats are great, also.

All of those can be pretty unsightly, tho. THIS, on the other hand, takes up very little space and I've found it to be extremely effective (and entertaining):

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/

This also disassociates YOU from the deterrent so that you're not the Bad Guy/Gal. You can even sweep in and "rescue" them immediately afterwards and be the hero... or run out of the Kitchen screaming and then seek comfort with your fellow furry victim of this senseless violent attack! 😃

SSSCAT is a pretty awesome product. We used it on our counters and a deterrent from the christmas tree. We got this product in our first apartment with our kitty and it worked well. What is nice is its sensored. So we can have it on at night when we can't see her and scold her.

Keep your door closed. He won't get in.

For counters if your roommates have a cat tower, keep it close to the counters. That's his space. Cats are curious (or hungry) and want to see what's up (or can they eat that). When he's got his own thing to hang out and observe what's going on on the counters, he won't be inclined to be on the counter tops. If he stays on the cat tree, he gets treats.

If you want to keep him off the counters even when you're not watching, then get one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G or put double sided sticky tape on the counter tops.

try setting up ssscats around your house. On counters, at the entrance to the kitchen, or anywhere else you want her to stay away from.

Try having a super good play session right before cooking dinner, and then putting the kitty in your room with his own dinner. By the time everyone is done cooking and eating their respective meals, he should be ready to groom and nap. Also, keep the counters spotless to give him no reason to get up there and molest the food/cookware.

love all of the above....also I've always wanted to try these to keep my cats away from certain areas

"Train your cat to stay away from restricted areas, such as the fishbowl or the kitchen counter. The SSSCAT Cat Training Aid uses a patented motion detector that senses when your cat is approaching an area she’s supposed to stay away from and releases a brisk spray. The scentless, stainless, harmless, painless spray startles the cat, training her to avoid that area from now on. You can adjust the angles of detection and spray direction. Good for indoor and outdoor use. Repels cats from up to 3 feet. Requires no training. Leaves no residue. Completely safe for all cats, humans, and the environment. Includes adjustable SSSCAT motion detector, can of harmless HFC134a gas, and user guide. Uses 4 AAA batteries (sold separately)."

we had issues with our cats climbing between the shower curtains and scratching it up so we bought this and it made a world of difference. The only challenge is to not trip the eye yourself or you get an unexpected puff of air.

this is also a good thing to consider when he gets a bit older.


Good luck!

When you say repellent sprays do you mean something that smells? I don't think that would repel the cats. They do have those ssscat motion-sensitive sprayers that are super effective with our cats at keeping them off the counters. You'd probably need 3 or 4 of them to cover a car well enough tho.

Definitely understand the counter concerns. I’d recommend the scat mats then. Should be able to get a decent size for about $40 and up.

For example:

PetSafe ScatMat Indoor Pet Training Mat for Dogs and Cats , Large, 48 X 20 inch, Pet Proof Your Home, Electronic Training Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007NTBJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qVZSDbJAAC9XY

They also have these motion sensor activated compressed air cans as well.



As for the tunnels, there are a few cheap four way tunnels with crinkle material. Would highly recommend a window perch; they have ones that can fold up while still hanging on the window, so you can close the blinds or shutters.

My wife and I have two cats and we've been thinking about that. Part of it is confidence that your cat has their own space to run, hide, or perch so that they don't even really think of messing with the kid.

But we've also had luck in keeping the cats out of our room at night with Ssscat. They learn pretty quick, when that can is out it's a no-go area.

How does a 3 legged cat jump down from the counter?

P.S. you can have fun with an air blaster sensor thingy, make sure you record it because its really funny.

http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

I don't know man, my cat likes citrus.

There are cat repellants on the market, but the reviews don't look to promising...Your best bet would be to catch these cats and TNR. (if they're not neutered)

I have a male (fixed) cat that pees occasionally wherever he wants. We got these and they've really really helped. We put them where he usually likes to pee (corner or counter-eewww).

http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

Good luck, I've been trying to fix this with my cat for years.

Try the SSScat air sprayer, it's worked pretty well for us.

You can also use compressed air instead of their official refills. :)

I'm not a cat person, but one of my cat-loving buddies uses this on his speakers and swears by the product.

Also a Yamaha AS series amp! Pairs great with maggies.

They're pretty expensive but they work well. Looks like the price has dropped a little at least.

My cat was like that when we first got her--absolutely nothing would deter her from trying to climb up the tree. Had to resort to putting three or four of these ( https://www.amazon.com/Innotek-PDT00-13914-Ssscat-Spray-Kit/dp/B000RIA95G ) around the base of the tree to prevent her from getting to it. Worked pretty well.

There are a lot of things you can try (and I've had this problem oh so many times).

The first thing I recommend is play with the cat before bed time. Get a feathers-on-a-stick or play mousey-down-the-stairs or laser pointer, whatever it takes to tire her out. She's scratching to come in because she's bored!

Two is deciding if she's allowed in your room or not. Whatever you decide, be firm. Cats can learn that they are allowed in during the day and not at night, but it's harder. Never let her in at night and if she breaks in put her right back out again. Lesson: scratching at the door does not work!

You can get automatic air sprayers that will tsst every time something comes near. You can turn it on at night and leave it outside your door. She will start to just be afraid of the can itself and you will no longer have to turn it on.

Opening the door to punish her is not usually as effective. If you open the door to spritz her with water or something she will more often than not dart in and then her plan worked.

I have also had mixed success with double sided tape where she puts her claws, or something hanging from the door like a sheet/blanket that's unpleasant to get her claws stuck in.

Primary advice however is exercise that cat! A tired cat is a pleasure to have in your room. Good luck!

A little olive oil in the rinse water when you give her a bath will help. I also love this stuff for treating and preventing dry skin: http://www.amazon.com/Virbac-2508-Humilac-Spray-8-Ounce/dp/B002EFXA24

If you can touch this kitten you can put flea meds on her if she is the right weight and age. I recommend Revolution.

You can buy various things that can keep cats away from certain areas such as these:.


PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iJ2ODbF5D2P9J

Orbit 62100 Yard Enforcer Motion Activated Sprinkler with Day and Night Detection Modes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009F1R0GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_16TsOpEBfkcpO

The only ways to keep the other cats from eating her food is if you make her a house cat. Or feed those cats too. Or supervise her eating and shoo the other cats away.

Could try this...

If it hasn't been recommended to you yet, grab a jug of something like Nature's Miracle, or some other enzymatic urine cleaner for the marked spots.

My cats aren’t interested in my plants so far 🤞but I’ve used this to keep them away from a specific area and it’s worked for me. I’ve read people using this to train cats to stay off of counters so maybe it would work for keeping them away from the top of the fridge?
PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xt25BbDDQBR9S

There are different auto-feeders, you could get one just for the night. We used something like this (not the same model) back when we fed 4x/day, and best of all it worked for wet food with a cold pack.

But if you go the deterrent way, there are motion detectors for air canisters for just this purpose.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496680919&sr=8-3&keywords=stay+off+counter

Check this out. We used them to keep our cats off the counter and they worked VERY well. A little creative positioning and the squirrels should be kept at bay.

you should get one of these! There are YouTube videos of them in action, but on the advice of other cat owner moms to be, they're the best! I've already grabbed a couple for my troublesome two, lol.

I used this stuff when my cat was a kitten, just make sure you reapply it once in a while until she stops since i assume it dies up after a while. good luck

http://www.amazon.com/Grannicks-Bitter-8-Ounce-Dabber-Top-Bottle/dp/B006L497W6/ref=sr_1_6?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1398201023&sr=1-6&keywords=grannick+bitter

There is a product called "ssscat" our cats get locked out of our room and they tear up the carpet under it to show their displeasure. I finally bought this and it's been a MIRACLE!!! (Wish I woulda bought it BEFORE the carpet was destroyed...)

https://www.amazon.com/Innotek-SSSCAT-Cat-Training-Aid/dp/B000RIA95G

Get a SSSCat motion-activated air spray can. I got one of these to keep my cats out of a room in my house, and it works great! It doesn't hurt them, and it's motion-activated so it works when you're not there. (And the first time they get near it is hilarious!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDfA9Ed1TAo
http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

It's actually a product called Ssscat Spray. (I bought on Amazon.) It's a motion-activated, uh, thingie that makes a hissing noise whenever the cat wanders into range.

These did work for us, but I must warn that they were a real pain in the butt to set up. There's a motion detecting base and a spray canister that you attach to it. I used up half the canister just trying to get it attached to the base. You can buy extra canisters but that can become costly. And then setting the motion detecting sensor can be a little infuriating.

I think I bought 2 or 3 of them and they did achieve the intended goal of keeping the cats away from the tree. But, like I said, my husband got 'sprayed' - from across the room - more often than the cats did.

The price now is almost double what I paid a few years ago....but maybe they've improved? Sometime, when you need a good laugh, read Amazon's reviews for this product. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sxK8BbAMDZJ54

This has been my life since I got my own apartment 8 years ago. I am still battling my three cats to get them to pee in the litter box.

People are going to tell you to take him to the vet to get checked for UTI, urine crystals. That maybe the case. I have had major success in using SSScat as a behavioral tool to curve this behavior. We found that there were 'spots' my cats preferred over others. Most of them seemed territorial. We placed the SSScat there for a little under a month and they quit peeing there.

Also make sure your litter boxes are accessible, my cats prefer them without the lid, only tolerate a certain amount of refuse in their litter and are particular about the litter we use. All of these things contribute to getting them to cooperate with peeing in the box.

I suggest getting one or two [SSScats] (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-KIT19001-SSScat/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464720946&sr=8-1&keywords=ssscat) and messing around with different litters, making sure the box is clean, and other variables. My parents have also have had success doing this but you know each cat is their own unique asshole.

Thanks.

If it was up to me, I’d use a cat Trebuchet, but that would probably not endear me to the neighbours.... /s

[This](PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activiated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L5VOBbBYG7PND) might be what the other poster was suggesting.

I agree with everyone else about having some intense play time before bed. If that still doesn't help you can look into getting something like ssscat spray to deter him from messing with the door.

We utilized sticky tape for a while... but that never worked, and it was a pain to clean.

Our best advice is this product - it has a motion sensor that will spray air loudly and deter our cat from coming near the plants. We positioned it right next to our aerogarden. It’s a bit expensive, but our cat doesn’t go near our garden now... so worth it in my eyes!

Since the cat has anxiety issues it is probably seeking a safe place or is lonely outside your bedroom. Bedrooms contain a lot more of your scents than other rooms in your house and to your cat those scents can be very comforting. If she has a preferred sleeping or hiding spot outside your bedroom, you could try putting an old t-shirt or something from your closet in the spot for her to lay on. The smells on the clothing could help her relax.

If that doesn't work you may try a more extreme training tool such as this: http://amzn.to/pcaIj9. Just put the device in front of your door at night and it will give her a small blast of air whenever she gets close.

Yes, SSScat.

You can use regular compressed air cans instead of branded replacements to save money.

I love the last image Amazon has for that product.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B000RIA95G/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_1?ie=UTF8&index=1&isremote=0

This is what we used, not the exact brand but this looks like it works even better! It is scentless to us, so it wont bother you at all.

you can get plastic garden spike mats used to keep cats from destroying plants. They aren't tough or sharp enough to be harmful, and they're a lot easier to put on counter tops and move when you want to cook etc, and look better than tinfoil. They've worked well in keeping the cat off our counter


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RY78GH3/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_zjSwDbCM3R29D


(you can probably find them at the dollar store for a significantly lower price)

For the couch scratching, you can use a spray like this one on your furniture. It is supposed to keep the cat from being on the place you spray. I've never personally tried it though. I would normally recommend double sided tape on your furniture where the cat scratches. That gets them to stop because they don't like how it feels. But I have no idea if the tape would damage the leather (I doubt it, but not sure) so I would try something like this which is a cat training tape. It is basically double-sided tape, but it specifically says it won't harm your furniture. I have done that and had a lot of success with it personally.

I used "Sssscat" motion detector-activated air pumps to train both my dogs and cats from going where I didn't want them to go (when I wasn't around to say "no"). Basically, it sprays a harmless, yet quite loud and surprising, burst of mist toward whatever crosses its path, making the animal know it isn't supposed to be there. After awhile, say a couple of months, you can stop using them because the animal will automatically know it's not cool to go where ever the Sssscat was. Have used them successfully for years. (Avail at amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-SSSCAT-Cat-Training-Aid/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1344205062&sr=1-1&keywords=ssscat)

Try this (or some similar) spray

http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Outdoor-Repellent-24-Ounce-Spray/dp/B000CMKHFE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1333970607&sr=1-1

I have bought this but have not had a chance to use it because my cat is not feeling well.
A lot of people have told me that this stuff works great

Looks like you could benefit from one of these

We use a sofa-sized Scat Mat across the front seats to keep cats off them. I suppose you could get two of them and put one on the top as well. They run off batteries, and roll-up easily, so they are very simple to use every day and put away when you need to drive the Jeep.

It’s like training. You have to stop then in the act.

A water spray bottle works. I found this works really well. It scares them into stopping, and also releases a pheromone in the area that then calms them. Eventually they’ll claw less and less to the point it isn’t too big a problem. Just give them adequate scratching posts/boards. Feliway diffusers also help in calming the cat and reducing scratching.

There's a motion-activated compressed air device that we've used to deter our cat from certain areas: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9

For new plants, especially small babies or props, we cover them with a mesh food cover to discourage nibbling until we're confident the cats will leave the plants alone. These may not work for a taller, upright plant like a Ponytail Palm though. Or a very determined cat. But it's been effective for our needs.

Here's some different types:

• Mesh: https://www.amazon.com/Apecks-outdoors-Protector-Umbrella-Collapsible/dp/B07H58VLP6/
  
• Large Mesh: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDV517W/
  
• Pop-Up: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYFV4M/
  
• Mesh & Bamboo: https://www.amazon.com/Cocoboo-Serving-Natural-Artisan-Handmade/
  
  For more desperate measures when we needed to keep cats off window sills or ledges, we put some wide double sided tape on the window sill or some kind of sticky or noisy pad they wouldn't want to walk over. There's all kinds of "cat training tape" or scratch control strips for furniture available online or at pet stores.

Oh don't start assuming anything about me or try to insult my cat knowledge. I have 4 cats currently and have had cats my whole life. I know how they operate, and I know behavioral conditioning. I'm a zookeeper.

I'm not going to do anything like you said, but I will point out again where you are uninformed: there are plenty of smart solutions that are automatic, thus will not become associated with human presence, and also are not likely to cause the cat to go on a rampage. This is the spray bottle I mentioned.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RIA95G

Best purchase I've ever made, regarding my cats.

I had a similar situation with a dog we rescued, though in over a decade of owning pets, I'd never had this happen before. She was fine with strangers and other dogs until she was spayed. Then she got really protective and defensive. What may have happened is that since the hormones gave gone down in your cat's system, they may now feel vulnerable- she has to prove her toughness. Call it overcompensation. Usually, I'd say 99% of the time, spaying and neutering "works" to calm a pet down.

You might want to bring kitty to the vet just to make sure that's all that's wrong, as cats may also get defensive when they're sick. Make sure she didn't get an infection from the operation.

If it turns out nothing is wrong with her, just buy some Feliway spray. It's this stuff for cats that makes them "be nice", by... well, setting up the right scents.

http://www.amazon.com/Feliway-Behavior-Modifier-Spray-75/dp/B001GQI8SS

I've got two cats here, by my side. One of them, whenever he is sick (or is in a mysterious bad mood), he attacks his furr-brother-from-another-mother. He never used to, it just happened as he aged.

Hope some of this helps! Good luck. Separate the cats when you can't watch them for now. It may also just be a territory battle, so you may want to make sure there are some high places one kitty can jump to, to be safe.

Not sure where you keep your switch, but when we tried to keep our cats out of a certain area we used a motion activated can of air:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/

Worked pretty well, cat learned not to go near that area for fear of the air.

This non-smart device was our solution for the same problem as you're having. I put the device next to the door after turning it on. Now kitty only scratches the door if he hears us from the other side.

http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1454006726&sr=1-1&keywords=ssscat

The best thing about this solution is that you can move it around and keep it anywhere you want.

They say this stuff is great - going to give it a shot in our bassinet.

Ssscat - motion activate squirt of air.

Yeah, that would be pretty annoying. We catsit my mom's two blind kitties sometimes, and one of them likes to explore the bedside table, resulting in knocking water cups off and once turning off my wife's APAP machine (for sleep apnea.) That was rather annoying. There is a very easy solution though. There's a product called a ScatMat that you can put on any area you want kitties to not get on, that gives a small shock if they step on it. It's not dangerous, just startling. For both of my mom's cats, and another cat we catsit, it took exactly once for them to never get on the areas again. Then we returned it to PetZoo or whichever one we got it from because they have 90 day return policy.

I'm late to the party but I have the same problem with my cats. You might try Feliway for a while - it keeps my younger male cat calm. A vet once told us to put a bit of tuna juice on the necks of our cats so they'd have positive associations with each other.


My younger male cat knows that when I say his name in a certain way, he'd better back off. Not that I've done anything to make him fear the consequences - the worst I do is hold him by the scruff until the female gets away safely. Not the best method though, as it doesn't really teach him anything except that when I'm around, he can't bug her.

If you'd like them to not be on your desk or other surfaces, may I recommend: https://smile.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Indoor-Training-Electronic/

Sssscat, motion activated air sprayer. It's a little expensive but it'll often get the job done. I use it to keep my cat from getting behind the PC and chewing on the monitor cables' ferrite beads. Once the cat gets wary of it I find I can replace it with an empty air can (just the sight of a can is enough to keep the cat away) then move the Ssscat to another location for more training.

As a bonus, I found that the sprayer head fits onto standard air duster cans for a cheap refill with extra capacity.

I have seen alot of people suggesting this I don't know if it works good or not.
Some also suggest foil, plastic wrap or double tape, but none of these would stop my cat.. he'd probably have fun with the foil and plastic wrap... I'll start with a spray bottle then we'll see!

The ideal thing to do would be to build an enclosure, but you might also want to check this thingy out. It's just compressed air hooked up to a motion sensor, so if the cat jumps in it's line of sight it shoots air at them, which they don't like very much. I used one to keep my kitty off the kitchen counter because I didn't want his brown star on my food prep surfaces. You could always place it right infront of the printer.

edit: OH one more note from the psychology books, in operant conditioning you want rewards to be intermittent, but punishments to be consistent. using a spray bottle is not a good way to train your cat because they know they can get away with it sometimes. They also just end up learning that they can still do the thing, they just can't do the thing around you. That's why the air can thing is cool because every time they jump near it they get an undesired stimulus which they don't associate with you. I only bring it up because someone else mentioned a spray bottle.

Amazon It works really well when used consistently! We had one on top of our china cabinet and the cats never even bother to jump up there anymore.

Cats aren't dogs, they don't react the same way. When a cat is trying to get your attention, any kind of attention is a reward. They don't understand "no" and will just come back once you shut the door again, because the sound makes you open the door.

Placing something like this outside the door is what they should do. It is a motion activated air canister that will spray air at the cat when it comes near the door, which will frighten it. It will learn to stay away from the door, and won't connect the discipline negatively with you.

This has worked WONDERS on our stubborn little jacka...er....our lovely little feline friend.

http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

You could get something like this. Not sure how well dogs respond to it, but it works amazingly well with cats!

Maybe try this? It's overpriced on amazon for some reason, you should be able to get it half the price if you shop around.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494865000&sr=8-1&keywords=ssscat

It will startle you and your SO just as much, but it's hilarious.

Outside of putting in a physical barrier, like a screen door, you could try spraying a mixture of water and peppermint or some type of citrus essential oil at the bottom of the stairs or use a canned-air deterent like this.

Yeah, luckily I can shoo him away pretty easily and it isn't an issue if it's off. There are products that use compressed air and a motion detector you set on counters and stuff to scare your cat off if they get close.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-KIT19001-SSScat/dp/B000RIA95G

Never used one and don't know anyone that has, and there night be other manufacturers, but stuff exists to keep cats off stuff.

fairly sure the cat piss comes from cats. get rid of the cats and the piss will follow. ;P

Have you tried the various sprays?

outside of that you could put the pc in a rubbermaid, cut holes, make air flow, or something like that, would be easy to take the pc back out and clean the rubbermaid from time to time

It is the SSS cat trainer. Pretty much canned air with a sensor.

This will spray him with a gas and he'll learn pretty quick.

She's more of a dog than a cat. She just listened after shooing her off. Praised her when she sat on the stools, shooed her when she went on the counters. Also this: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-KIT19001-SSScat/dp/B000RIA95G

PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HfgSDbEKZW68Q

And even better, this one is automated!

http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

This might also be a good option!

Get a Sssscat. Toxoplasmosis is only a problem if your cat is indoor/ outdoor. What the real issue is your cat walks around its kitty litter and then jumps up on the counter. I love my cats, but food begging and counter surfing are some of the most obnoxious habits any animal can pick up. Really, a Ssscat makes a huge difference. My boys are beautiful, but they are morons. They picked it up quick.

Check out this thing I used from Amazon! I have a climbing, chatty tortie who LOVED placing her ass directly on my dish towels/dishes and this fixed it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xB3WDbTCKET80

My friend had these set up on the counter and the couch and they work with his cat. They don't like the "psssst" air sound that comes out so they avoid it. May work?

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-KIT19001-SSScat/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1481571204&sr=1-2&keywords=Pssst

Reward him for keeping all four paws on the floor in the kitchen and be diligent about keeping the counters clean. We bought one of these for our pup, and he's pretty much stopped trying to get on the counters. As for jumping on guests/you, turn away and be boring, don't even look at him or make a noise, the second his front paws leave the floor and don't give him any attention until he is calm and all four feet are on the ground. We have our guests do this as well and it's working. Also, if they are on the couch and he jumps on them, we ask them to stand back up and be boring. It's working, but it takes time.

No, officer. It's a scatmat to keep my pets indoors when I leave the door open for fresh air...

I made it myself to save money.

We had the same issue with our cats last year so this year I decided to get a ssscat. Much entertainment to be had, and the cats have not touched my tree this year!
http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1449584091&sr=1-1&keywords=Ssscat

My cats think foil is a fun game. To keep them out of trouble, I bought a couple of these. It really freaked them out at first, but it definitely works! The motion sensor bit is a little skittish but once you get it set you can ignore it. Highly recommended!

I noticed that my HT sets off the motion-activated cat destroyer when I have a tiger tail added and transmit on 70cm. Interestingly, it doesn't do it without the tiger tail.

When it didn't do it before, was the antenna in a different place? Perhaps not on top of the metal cabinet?

I put this under my tree: http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

None of my cats touch the tree anymore :)

PetSafe ScatMat Indoor Pet Training Mat for Dogs and Cats, Curved Size 50 x 12 inch, Pet Proofing Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005G6LFLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n1f1Db37S8S05

For $50 my tree hasn’t been touched once since installing :)

There's a motion activated air spray can that makes it so you don't even have to get up.

For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G

There's probably better ones, that was a 10 second google search.

I would definitely suggest a glass tank instead of acrylic if it is a smaller tank, because it adds a little more weight to it. Water weighs 10 lbs/gallon, though, so its pretty difficult for a cat to knock over anything over a few gallons :) If you are concerned, you can put shelf liner or something similar underneath it to make it difficult to slide. I would suggest that anyways if the tank is on something that you want to protect from water damage though!

Also, be careful of glass lids if there is somewhere above the tank that your cats can access (bookshelf, ledge, etc) because if the cats jump down onto it, you'll probably have a wet cat and some broken glass.

Some cats are really not at all interested in aquariums anyways, which makes it a lot easier! I've been lucky since I have 6 small and 2 larger tanks, and my cats don't even seem to know that they're there!

If they are too interested though, and you think that they pose a threat to the tank, you can use something like this to deter them from it. I had to use that for my parents' very large cat after he broke 3 of my glass lids!

> I swear he is nocturnal.

That's because he is, heh. Cats are partially to fully nocturnal. That's why they seem so lazy and uncaring during the day, only to become giant pains in the butt at bedtime. (Or 2am, or 3am...)

Firstly, don't feed him too much too late in the evening. If he's a natural grazer, put food out in the morning only. If he wolfs everything down at once, feed him a larger meal in the morning right before you leave, then a smaller meal as soon as you get in. This can help keep his energy levels in check.

If you really need him to stay away from the blinds or off a desk, try the Ssscat. It's pressurized air with a motion sensor. While the air doesn't hurt the cat, it helps to scare kitty away. Also, try draping a blanket over your chair to muffle the sounds and prevent scratching.

My cats are destroying our bedroom door because they aren't allowed in there (I'm allergic to everything, and need a safe place away from furry things). I'm trying to come up with a way to stop them, but very little seems to be effective. It's not like they don't get loved on ALL DAY (you know - when they run away from me like I'm a monster), but no. At night, they apparently NEED to be in there.

I'm considering Ssscat. Heh.

Also, I'm seriously craving some pizza. I think I'll make mini-pizzas today. Mmmm, yummy, gooey, cheesy pizza.

They sell air canisters that shoot a beam of air when something walks in front of it

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G

Idk if this will work or not but maybe it'll help

The Scat Mat is an electric pad you put on the couch, counter, anyplace. I haven't used it, but I know it exists. I don't think he's getting enough exercise. He may need more rough, run, and higher energy outlets than just a simple walk.

Couldn't you also just electrify the floor?

Think like a scatmat that runs around your insulated doors and windows.

something like this

Go purchase something like this https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-KIT19001-SSScat/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466110148&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+motion+sensor+spray

I do like the idea that /u/DealWithThat suggested, but if it doesn't work, you may want to check in to a compressed air canister that has a motion sensor on it, like this.

I've seen it on My Cat from Hell and they seem to be pretty effective, however you may need more than one if she scratches on multiple spots on the bed (ie one on either side.) It will just blow a puff of air at her when she approaches and scare her off.

Keep us updated!

You need to get one of these. We have four cats and got a couple of these to keep them off counters and out of baby's room. It works so well that if they even SEE the can, they don't go near it. There are YouTube videos of these in action if you want to see how well they work.

This worked remarkably well at keeping my cats off the kitchen counter

On top of speakers (can barely see it):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VRR92F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Behind speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536369076&sr=1-1&keywords=scat

Draped over speaker so he doesn't stand on speaker and bat the blinds over and over and over:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Training-Medium-inches/dp/B0009MZ1L2/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536369124&sr=1-9&keywords=shock+mat

Get a Scatmat. They work brilliantly and you can just move them around to spots you don't want them on till they get trained...which usually only takes a shock or two.

Solution

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007NTBJ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395105041&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Ssscat is a device, relatively inexpensive, that deters cats from going into areas where you don’t want them. It’s harmless and works.

My cats never cared for covered boxes, so I used the high-sided type to cut down on the litter mess. Here's one [example] (https://www.amazon.com/LitterMaid-High-Sided-Litter-Pan/dp/B00DU94PPY), but you can find them at a better price.

If you really want them to stop, get this from Amazon. It's a motion detected sensor that sprays air and make a terrible noise that terrifies them into oblivion.


One of my cats was peeing in the bathroom sink for a medical reason, but continued to do it after it was cleared up. I put one of these on the bathroom counter and she has never been back since :)

You need to get ssscat spray.

http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

This is worth every penny, and we have two! One is currently under the Christmas tree, and one is outside our bedroom door. We don't even leave them on anymore because the cats are afraid that they'll be sprayed and don't go near them.

You could get a high-sided "liner pan" for that expensive cat box (it's beautiful!). Like this one. That may be a temporary solution to your long term problem. You could also cover the inside with a liner similar to the liner you put on cabinets like this? Basically you want to prevent that urine from touching the wood!

I've used one before, 20 bucks well spent:

We had a thing called a Sssscat

I recently purchased a Ssscat (https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G) to keep them away from certain areas and it seems to be working so far.

Do you think this is torture as well: https://www.amazon.ca/Innotek-SSSCAT-Cat-Training-Aid/dp/B000RIA95G

?

Ssscat. Although the replacement canisters are kind of expensive, I recently found out that the top is fairly universal and apparently you can just use compressed air from Staples or something. We have gotten to the point that we don't even need it on our counters anymore, and mostly use it if we want to keep the kitties out of a room temporarily, we just set it outside, and they stay away without scratching at the door. We usually don't even turn it on anymore.

Over here. They are remarkably efficient. Just one zap was all it took. Now she won't even go near the mats. I'm pretty sure the batteries went dead a long time ago, but she won't approach them for anything.

It's harsh treatment, obviously, but we really had no alternative. We just could not keep her off the sofa, and we had to replace two furniture pieces before we found the mats. My wife was ready to take her for one final trip to the vet. The mat probably saved her life.

I never found something satisfying, so never bought a Maggie, although I adore them. At one time I considered this

Metal screen is radical but I'm afraid it will have a detrimental effect to the sound.

I love this thing. It sprays your cat using a remote sensor, so the cat starts to fear the environment, rather than being wary of a person with a spray bottle.

Video of it in action: http://youtu.be/zP5gx6Bw7v0?t=49s

I got something called "ssscat" at PetSmart. It was about 40 bucks and is a small can with a motion detector on it. When they walk past it, it sprays. Used it to keep 3 cats from digging under my bedroom door in the morning.

Cheaper on amazon!
http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-SSSCAT-Cat-Training-Aid/dp/B000RIA95G

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Operated-Scat-Mat-48x20/dp/B0007NTBJ6

And make sure they have a few towers next to the forbidden zones so that you can easily redirect them to an allowed climbing place.

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G

Put it where your cat likes to jump up. I put it behind the TV at night so he doesn't get to the cables.

I also have this TV cover. I use it mostly for the occasional sunlight that comes in, but it does keep him from rubbing on the TV.

They sell motion activated cans of CO2 that Pssssst when anything comes near. Worth every penny.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G

Motion sensing cat air sprayer:

Worth a try.

You can also get Feliway. It is worth a try for the price.

http://www.amazon.com/Feliway-Behavior-Modifier-Spray-75/dp/B001GQI8SS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1369939441&sr=8-4&keywords=feliway

I think it’s worth a try. Here’s the one I have.. It’s small enough to move it around if you need to, and the canister lasts a while.

Here is a real solution. This is how you train cats with passive negative reinforcement and non-harmful.

This is a motion sensing air sprayer, when the cat gets near your Xbox it will spray air and the cat will run away. After a few weeks the cat will avoid the area entirely and not think you’re a jerk.

Don’t spray your cat with water ever.

PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TZiLzbJ6WQKKR

They have something called a scat mat, which despite its slightly off-putting name, works wonders. It's just a plastic mat with a wire going back and forth connected to a battery pack. If the animal touches two points of the wire it closes the circuit and delivers a mild shock. Worked great on my mom's cats when she got a new suede sofa.

They cost $40, but they fuckin work.

I looked into building something like this - but finally ended up getting this -http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

Put one of these up there, cats don't fuck with these.

You can try a ssscat device, you can buy it online and possibly at a local pet store. It is motion sensored so when it cat comes near it will put out a puff of air and it won't go into your room. We use it to keep the cats away from our door at night or they will lick our faces when we sleep.

Here is a link to amazon and reviews https://www.amazon.com/HunterShop-KIT19001-PetSafe-SSScat/dp/B000RIA95G

Does your vanity have the space for a ScatMat? We had issues with one of our cats counter surfing in our kitchen so we gave that a try. After a few shocks, he’s not up on the counter nearly as much anymore. Not a 100% fix for us but it was worth the $40! It may work wonders for you!

Yikes. A couple things: First, you need to know that a lot of these problems stem directly from your cat being declawed. Just use your brain, friend. His "fingers" have been cut off on all four paws. He has no way of defending himself (and he knows it) and he is likely in pain (which will only get worse as he ages). Don't declaw your cats. It's cruel and doesn't alleviate any problems; in fact it creates more.

Second, he's 8 months old. He seems like a rambunctious kitten with a lot of pent-up energy. I know from experience that if you don't drain that energy every single day, the cat will start acting out.

All this being said, you can't go back in time and not have him declawed. Moving forward, all you can do is make sure that little guy is getting all the play sessions he needs and prevent boredom. Commit to spending ~30 minutes per day playing with him. I like to do this with my cat before meals. We play, she's laying panting on the floor, then she gets her food, eats, then sleeps. It's amazing what adding some playtime can do! I really think this will fix or at least greatly reduce all of the behaviors you describe.

So yeah, I would focus more on preventing unwanted behavior with play rather than reacting. Cats don't really respond to "punishments" and you're just enforcing the notion of the carrier as a negative place (which sucks when it's time to travel/go to the vet!).

And if he's still going on your counter, you can try this to keep him off. It has a motion censor, so any time he jumps up, he gets a blast of air. It will only take a couple times before he gives up on the counter ;)

Get this and position near the door you will have to play with positioning since you will be going out at the same time but it's totally doable. Once the cat associates the door and the air spray they won't want to go near it.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=pd_day0_199_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000RIA95G&pd_rd_r=2E58FA72XF8P03590W7S&pd_rd_w=iaJRC&pd_rd_wg=5QG82&psc=1&refRID=2E58FA72XF8P03590W7S