(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best computer cables & adapters

I suggest to not use PcPartPicker as they mostly got Amazon on there wich isn't the only store in Germany and also not the cheapest either. I prefer to use http://geizhals.de

I can create 2 builds. 1 very sweety black and white looking build and 1 sweet white build with the insides not that amazing, but same performance. Obviously the 2nd option would cost less. Not sure exactly how much lower I could get it. I guess about €50-100.

I made a list here: Click!

I also will provide a PPP link (US prices, so ignore the price, products are the same) just so you can quickly see what my suggestion is.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $318.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Phanteks PH-TC12DX_BK 68.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $59.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $125.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $74.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Crucial M550 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $55.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $104.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card | $325.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $115.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $108.99 @ SuperBiiz
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1291.90
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-12 17:07 EST-0500 |

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Some video's that will help you with the build!

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How to build a PC: Here. Completely ignore the parts that he chose. I actually was very surprised at that date when he came with those products, as I don't think it's optimized well and the GPU could've been a lot better. Anyway, ignore it! Building a PC is basicly the same, the wires did not change and the process is not changed either. You can skip the stock intel CPU cooler part and instantly install the aftermarket CPU cooler. This is just easier for you so you don't have to clean the thermal paste later. Wich would cost you another £/$/€10 or so.
How to overclock my CPU: Basicly pretty much this. Very solid and simple to follow guide. This is done with an Asus board so it will be slightly different with our motherboard. Slightly different names and they are often on other places, etc.
How to overclock your GPU: Hey guys, this is Austin! It really is very easy these days. I highly suggest to run 10-15 minutes stress tests in between changing to a higher frequency. After you hit crashes and artifacts. I sugges to go down 2 steps or at least 10-25MHz on the core clock and 25-50MHz on the memory. Then do a full +6 hour stress test at least.
How to install Windows from an USB drive: Here is a great video again!
How to use Ninite: This video explains it very well, in case you can't figure it out.

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My rationale for the chosen products:

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CPU: CPU: Intel quad-core, hyperthreaded, unlocked CPU clocked at 4,0GHz with a boost up to 4,4GHz. The boost will automaticly take place when the CPU gets under heavy load. So when playing games, etc. this will happen. It also is unlocked wich means you can overclock the CPU even further. More on overclocking above!
CPU Cooler: As it is a white and black theme, I went with a white and black CPU cooler. It's a pretty solid one for the price. It comes with 2 fans as well, wich does help a good amount for cooling. Here is a nice review. Yes it's the same one, they come in different colours.
Motherboard: Black and white Z97, SLI ready motherboard from MSI. It's a beauty! Here is a detailed review, but you can look at the video and read the conclusion.
Memory: RAM is RAM. The only thing that really matters is capacity. For gaming 8GB is enough, for editing how-ever you do want 16GB. But I wasn't able to put it in the budget. But I would just suggest to start with 8GB, you can use the programs you do use just fine. But not all at the same time. Then later buy the exact same kit and trow it into the system and you got 16GB wich should technically be enough for you. If you think that you will need more, I would suggest to buy a single 8GB stick instead. I don't edit as much and when I do, 8GB is enough for me. But you likely would want at least 16GB, perhaps 32GB even. As for "dual channel vs single channel" it does matter very slightly for render timings. But for like a 1 hour video it would take of 2-3 minutes at most, wich is in my mind not a huge deal. So you can just buy a single stick first. It's technically possible to also place 2x4GB and 2x8GB kits in the same motherboard. This useally works without a problem, but it's something I don't suggest.
Storage: As I asked before, I went for a 128GB & 256GB SSD, different models as the pricing was best for these versions. How-ever the MX100 is a slightly updated M550. But they both perform very well. M550 review & MX100 review.
Video Card: Video Card: The GTX970 is the beauty of the system. It's Nvidia's latest Maxwell architecture card and got a lot of nice features. Including Cuda. Here is a great video about these features. Note that this is the GTX980, so you can ignore the benchmarks, but these features are all present on the GTX970 as well. Here is a short video review of 2 different GTX970 models from Zotac. Sadly I can't find any written or video review of the card that I selected. But it also got a metal housing and it's only a 2 slot card. So no 3 slot as the 2 in the video. It got 2 DVI, 1 HDMI and 1 DP port. You can buy DVI to HDMI & DP to HDMI adapters, but this is not able to* transport audio. I also just simple not suggest to use HDMI unless you really need the audio. But DP also can carry audio. Our zotac card got the latest DP 1.3 connection.
Case: Here is the best video review you can find about it. The window will make it a little less silent, but still silent anyway if you keep the moduvents closed that is.
Case fans: Stock fans are good enough, so no need to change or add anything here. You can always add aftermarket fans later.
* Power Supply: 10 year warrenty, 80+ gold, fully-modular flat black cables, 750W PSU from EVGA. This is flat out the best PSU in this wattage range you can buy. Here is a very detailed review about this unit. You can also just look at the score: 9,8/10. Wich is very good.

##Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Okay, I've read through the other comments and feel I still have something to contribute as I've just set this up for my parents and plan to run it at my place some time in the future.

• PoE Switch - If you want to use a PoE switch, you have to get the PRO APs, the LITE and LR only support passive PoE. I was lucky enough to have inherited a Cisco SG300-10 802.3at PoE+ Switch from my former employer when they shut down. It's very convenient to use, but not a necessity. The PoE Injectors that come with APs have a nice mounting plate so that you can attach them to the wall/shelf/what-have-you. If you're dead-set on using PoE, Netgear has some decent, inexpensive offerings. 8-port PoE without VLANs $80, 8-port PoE with VLANs $100. If you're running out of outlets, and are on a budget, I would suggest buying a bigger power strip (Belkin makes a nice one I've used in a lot of applications) (or, if you're moving to rack mount, a PDU plugged into a UPS)
  
  
  
  
• Patch Panel - For flexibility, what you'll want to look for is a keystone panel and then populate it with your own jacks as needed. (If you want to throw in Coax you can, and if you want/need a phone jack in there, just use another CAT5E)
  
  
• Rack - Based on what you said, I think you are looking for something like this? You could also look at making a lack rack, if you're into DIY.
  
  
• Additional thoughts - If you are sharing the internet connection with your tenants in the basement, you may want to look at using a "proper" firewall that can VLAN them onto their own subnet, and keep them out of your internal network (for security reasons). When I set up my parent's network, I put all of the "Internet of Things" devices (thermostat, sprinkler controller, solar monitor, etc) on their own subnet and VLAN because they are something that I have very little control of, and I see as being a big network risk. Just my $0.02
  
  Let me know if any of this didn't make sense to you.
  
  Cheers!
  
  Edit: additions in bold above

Huh. I've never looked for one, but you're right. I'm not coming up with anything, even on Amazon. That's saying a lot considering that I can buy a cat butt tissue holder on there.

Just to think outside the box, what about a USB-C to USB-A male adapter to convert the headphones to a USB-A connection, then use some sort of multi-port hub to connect everything.

I'm also pretty sure you can convert the USB-C monitor to plug into an HDMI port.

Yeah, it's a nightmare living the dongle life at the moment, but with USB-C becoming more common, hopefully, it won't be much longer.

Which two did you buy and what is the resolution and hz of your monitor?

I would expect something like this to be a better one. If it supports eyefinity that is a good sign that it didn't skimp on something. But the main thing you want is an "active" one.

This is one I have and use for hooking my laptop to tvs. Never had an issue: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072

This is a newer company and you can see their adapter is smaller than the other two, but it makes the same claims of support. This one even specifically says hdmi 1.4 support. http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8

Other than those 3, I do not think any other adapter on amazon would be worth buying. The rest are junk that may work with a 1080p tv, but that is it.

The DisplayLink adapters will definitely do this. I wouldn't use one for anything crazy, ie. Video Rendering but simple video streaming, web browsing, standard use is perfectly fine. The ones I have only carry video though, you'll have to output audio directly to the TV separately. I'm sure you can get ones that output audio also.

Most of the decent ones output as DVI and come with DVI>HDMI and DVI>VGA adapters so you can connect to virtually any monitor or TV.

Link

Link for Colonials

EDIT: HDMI output with audio. I've never tested these thought they look like they should work.

Check this out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLSFPBY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.

I received it a few days ago and it works really well! Despite it's name, it works for the iPad Pro as well (though I do use it for Samsung DeX too). It has good build quality, hdmi, usb c (for charging and possibly data, not too sure about the last part), 1 usb a, micro sd and sd card. It's lightweight and slim so uou can take it on the go as well! It's really good imo so go ahead and check it out!

Hope this helped!

I have one HDMI and 3 display ports and one DVI on the back of my GPU. I got this and plugged it into the displayport yesterday and works with my HDMI cable: http://www.amazon.com/SIENOC-Display-Female-Connector-Adaptor/dp/B00FPFNY8U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
works perfectly for my second monitor, and will use my 1 HDMI slot for the Oculus which hopefully arrives today. hopefully that helps, if that's what you were asking :)

You can use a converter/adapter like this, which will allow you to connect a display using HDMI input such as a TV or monitor. Keep in mind that because the output is VGA you will not have audio over the HDMI cable like if you were connected via HDMI output, so if you connect to a TV with the adapter, you will not get audio through HDMI. Also keep in mind that the max supported resolution for something like this is 1920x1080 @ 60 Hz.

Edit: Updated link to correct adapter/converter. Apparently this one also has audio connections in the adapter as well, to support audio over HDMI by using the motherboard's integrated audio outputs.

I've extended all my sensors and my headset to give me full use of my computer room using only passive. Sounds like you've already got this to work but here's what I use in case anyone else wants to know. Cost me in total, like $45 and everything works perfectly.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)

Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready

Bad idea. While that adapter should work in a high end video card, those passive adapters rely on the video card supplying the active timing.

It is far better to spend 9 more bucks and just get an active adapter. A keyword for an active adapter is "eyefinity" support.

This would be a better adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gofanco%C2%AE-DisplayPort-Converter-UltraHD-Display/dp/B00OSBDVF8

This one should support it. Down it the comments someone asked about 1080p at 144Hz and it was confirmed. Looks like DP1.2. Best of luck to you!


USB-C (Thunderbolt 3) to DisplayPort 4K@60Hz Adapter, Benfei USB Type C to DisplayPort/Dp Male to Female Converter for MacBook Pro 2015/2016, ChromeBook Pixel Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBX352B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_acZ8Ab5WZXRQV

Hey u/jimmy_007vn,

Assuming you're talking about this PSU. If you are, this PSU can power 3 Vega cards and whatever risers you'd need. The risers will be connected to the SATA rails that come from the PSU.

Currently there are 3 types of risers:

Molex/SATA

SATA/6-pin

SATA

All three of these types of risers will be connected to the PSU rails directly. You don't need to buy a pin converter. You'll just need two power supplies and a power supply connector so that you can run 6 cards.


I have personally tested the Molex/SATA and the SATA risers, and I personally like the SATA risers. The Molex/SATA risers have melted twice on me, causing two GPUs to ruin themselves(this occured at different times). The SATA only riser is currently the best I have used. I have not had a melting issue like I did with Molex/SATA. I have bought some of the newer 6-pin risers to test after reading that they are supposedly safer than previous riser types.

The electricity used by the risers will be negligible, and you don't have to worry about overloading your 1000w PSU.



I hope this helped.

These ones are apparently good:

 

FastSnail HDMI Type C Hub Adapter

 4K HDMI Adapter DeX Station & DeX Pad

 

There are a few hubs like that on Amazon. All of the good ones require that you use the official Nintendo power adapter. I have seen a few reviews of the better hubs. They don't brick your Switch. One guy left his charging and in use for days and it did not affect it adversely.

 

edit: formatting/added links.

Thanks for the replies... So, you're saying, if I buy a Mini-B adapter like this and plug it into the Harmony remote, then plug in a USB bluetooth adapter like the IOGEAR Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter (GBU521), the remote will power the adapter and allow me to pair with it on my PC?

I'm not sure that'll work for two reasons...

1. I don't think the Harmony Remote's USB controller is capable of powering Bluetooth dongle.
   
   
2. I don't think the Harmony Remote's USB controller is capable of being a USB Host.
   
   
3. I am a generally skeptical person.
   
   Thoughts?

I use these for my two front sensors that I’ve wall mounted without any issues:

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable / USB 3 Extension Cable) in Blue 10 Feet - Available 3FT - 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008219UMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TvycBbGJW4E8C

For my rear sensor, I bought the sensor through Best Buy and it came with a USB extension cable. I wasn’t sure if the extension was USB 3 or not so I just made sure I pulled it into a USB 2

Hope this helps!

I use this inexpensive USB / DB9 adapter, it lets me talk to my Dataprobe iBootBar network enabled power switch just fine. Now, any of my computers can have a DB9 port.

On the Amazon review page for this cable, one user wrote:

"I recently purchased this product as a monitor extension cord to convert to my Mac. It was only after receiving it that I realized that there are more than one type of pen configurations for a monitor serial port."

"My suggestion would be that you make it very clear on this product that this is not the pin configuration that works with most traditional monitors."

Comedy gold, ya just gotta love those Mac users.

Hey there,
While we do recommend a direct connection to your GPU whenever possible we have had customers report success using the following adapters:
DisplayPort (M) to HDMI (F):https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM/
DVI (M) to HDMI (F):https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-Female-Adapter/dp/B007NLEF3W
Please note that Oculus does not endorse these adapters and that we cannot guarantee that they will work with all systems.
Thanks!

I bought this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ID270ZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1426084031&sr=8-2&pi=SL75&keywords=easyacc+3.0

Works like a charm, though it needs to be plugged into an outlet via USB adapter, like a phone charger. It didn't come with it's own adapter, but it was cheap and works great.

Edit: I should mention this is USB 3.0

Some more details are needed here.

Do you have Windows 8/8.1 or Windows 10?

If you have a DisplayLink-based USB solution, which driver are you using? Make sure to grab the latest at http://www.displaylink.com/downloads/windows

Do the symptoms change if you plug the USB devices into a powered hub vs unpowered hub? The power delivery of the Surface USB port is limited, so a powered hub is always recommended when plugging in multiple devices.

If you still run into issues, try collecting logs using the diagnostic tool: http://www.displaylink.com/downloads/file?d=65 and following up on the DisplayLink forum:
http://www.displaylink.org/forum/

You'll get MUCH better support there.


BTW, why not try a miniDP->DVI active adapter to plug one of the monitors in rather than have both plugged in via USB? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503094029&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+dp+dvi+adapter+active

USB hub - because I think my current hub is dying and I want something better, and because everyone needs a hub these days!

The Bounty Hunter Code Because we both need to learn more about being a good Bounty Hunter!

New Apple-approved cables because the cheap ones keep dying and the Apple ones are expensive.

Bag of Holding Because we both need to carry around a lot of stuff and look cool while doing it.

I used:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and have had great success.

Someone suggested an HDMI switch to you, and I don't think that's a good idea. From what I've read, the vast majority of switches do not support HDR.

I took the advice of a different redditor to solve this problem a while back, and in some ways his solution is less complicated. Simply get a female to female connector. One cord from your TV to the connector, and another cord from the connector to your PS4.

When you want to use your PSVR, completely remove the connector and plug both cords into the breakout box. I find it works quite well and it's much easier to get to the cords than it would be if I needed to reach the back of the PlayStation.

This is the connector I bought, and I can confirm it is HDR compatible. This solution is much cheaper too.

Nevermind, missed the SB[2]. Depending on the monitor, 3.0 to HDMI Video Graphics Adapter with Audio for Multiple Monitors up to 2560x1440 for around $20.


Depending on the monitor, the most you might need is an mDP to HDMI (preferably active) adapter for about $18 or maybe a Mini DP to DP Cable for $9 if your monitor supports it. If you start to think multi-monitor (screen real estate) I'm a fan of the Microsoft Dock, which gives you two mDP and other nice features like 4 full-powered USB 3.0 ports.

OK I see what your saying. How's this? gofanco Gold Plated DisplayPort to HDMI Active Converter for 4K UltraHD Display/Monitor - Eyefinity Compatible, DisplayPort 1.2 - Black MALE to MALE - MULTIPLE SCREENS Supported for Gaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OSBDVF8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_QRnhybJ5G6AM7?

Apple doesn't support 2 external monitors natively for the Airs, but
DisplayLink offers a solution over USB. Displaylink is used in Dell USB docks, too.

Be warned:

• This is lower performance than thunderbolt/native ports
  
  
• DisplayLink drivers for mac have been known to break during OS updates. No solution other than downgrading or waiting (months) for a fix. Make sure to keep regular backups
  
  Edit: For best performance, buy one of these displaylink adapters (USB-C for air 2018+, USB-A 3.0 for air 2012-2017) and one thunderbolt adapter (USB-C for air 2018+, mini displayport for air 2008-2017).

It depends on what you have on the back of your computer. You'll need one end of the cord to be HDMI, and that end goes into your tv. The other end needs to fit a port on your computer. I don't believe that USB will be an option.

Your computer most likely has vga output on the rear.

It looks like you'd need something like this to get your computer working on the HDMI.

Alternatively, if you have a DVI output, you can get a DVI to HDMI cable or adapter. It should be noted that DVI has to forms: DVI-D and DVI-A; DVI-Digital and DVI-Analog, respectively. Be careful which one you purchase if you go down the DVI route.

Edit: Actually ignore all of this, I totally misread your title and post. Other people here seem to know more about RCA than I do, so follow their advice.

> I am trying to install a Vantec UGT-PCE10SR on a system running CentOS 7. I'm not entirely sure what's wrong but it is not working. Does anyone have a procedure to follow to install it?

Do you want to play with this card, or do you want to move ahead to the part where you have a serial interface? In other words, is this (A) an engineering exercise or (B) do you want a working serial interface?

If B, buy a USB to serial adaptor. They're cheap (less money than this device which will not work) and they are supported by Linux.

Example. I'm not promoting the linked product, it's just the first one I saw on Amazon.

If your tv does not support HDR, just use the passthru feature of the PSVR breakout box. If it does support HDR, you can use a female/female coupler to connect the two cables when you want to play a game/watch a video that supports HDR.

This one works for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJHXY0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've read that others use this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041914&p_id=15650&seq=1&format=2

It does work, I bought these dongles and it worked on my tv... Even in my 2015 crv se.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07PTX7TF1?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B013G4CJM8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You need displaylink presenter installed on your phone. It can be downloaded from play store.

Happy?

A quick Google search is giving conflicting answers. I've found "There are no drivers so it won't work", "You need a special active adapter to get the FFB function (with no mention of said adapter)", I found a DIY breadboard adapter tutorial that'll get it working but it doesn't allow FFB, an official answer I found to the question asked on Microsoft's site is "It may not be supported".

Apparently the USB versions that came out later work just fine, it's the gameport that's causing issues, something about this particular one, it comes up as unsupported.

I got lucky, my Sidewinder FFB2 works just fine, it was plug and play.

​

Just stumbled across this right before I was about to post, go to the reviews and read the first one:

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Joystick-Adapter-SideWinder-F3U200-08/dp/B000067RIV#customerReviews

Yes, I have all my cables extended.

Here are the USB cables I use for the sensor camera and HMD USB connections and [here is the HMDI coupler I use] (http://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Female-Coupler/dp/B00CJHXY0U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00) plus a generic HDMI 6 feet cable from Monoprice I ordered some time ago (plus my 970 has a mini to norm HDMI dongle too). There is a USB extender cord packaged with the Rift that I use for the Xbox dongle.
Looks like all the dongles and extra cables work just fine.

I routed all the cables to the front so I can easily plug and unplug everything without crawling under the desk and scooting the PC around...

I was super pissed when I found out Apple's adapter didn't do DP.

There's a bunch of adapters when I search on Amazon. Here's one:

>USB Type C Adapter,ITANDA USB C Type to Mini DisplayPort/Mini DP Adapter Cable With Aluminium Case Support 4K resolution for Apple New Macbook 2016, ChromeBook Pixel - Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2ORP84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pImQybS9A09QZ

edit: use that with a regular thunderbolt cable (or a displayPort cable), and you should be good to go.

I actually used this for a while but it's a bit cumbersome.

The simplest solution I found was a HDMI coupler like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJHXY0U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You basically just have two HDMI cables, one from TV to VR box, one from PS4 to VR box.

When you're done with VR, just unplug both cables from the back of the VR and connect them via the coupler.

Are my risers safe and good? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PS39BK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe something like this?

Belkin F3U200-08INCH DB15 8-Inch USB Joystick Adapter for SideWinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RIV/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CwmYxbCHGHKP1


Better reviews on this one:
USB game port Adapter Rockfire RM-203 gameport https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HAX7OU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_3xmYxb6KA1WBA

This might be a better fit: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1438569&CatId=7372

Although it's HDMI, you get a couple of cheap DVI or HDMI adapters and WALLLA!

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Female-Adapter/dp/B007NLEF3W/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1394657498&sr=8-6&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi

I have the same issue, just got a new iMac and was hoping to use my old display as a second monitor but the adapter I bought doesn't work (and in fact the Amazon listing was updated after I bought it to note that it won't work with 2017 Macs and they're working on a new one). Not that that's particularly helpful, but at least you know it's not just you.

If your pc does not have a USB-C port. You are going to need a USB-C to USB.

Maybe a product like this would help?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075LHXVNV/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1523302629&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+c+to+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=410C18L4ixL&ref=plSrch

Hope this helps. It seems to me that you don’t know much with tech?

Thank you!

Yes all devices were recognized as 3.0. Here are the extensions:

USB

HDMI

Mobo - Biostar Motherboard TB250-BTC

CPU - Intel 3.70 GHz Core i3-6100

Risers - Mailiya 6-Pack PCIe Dual Chip PCI-E 16x to 1x Powered Riser Adapter Card w/ 60cm USB 3.0 Extension Cable & 6 Pin PCI-E to SATA Power Cable

PSU - Corsair AXi Series, AX1200i

On the motherboard, you can fiddle with all the BIOS settings regarding mining, etc. I got hung up because I chose "6 cards" for mining. It did a weird POST screen and wouldn't boot. I put it on "More than 6" and it works fine (even though I only have 6).

On the Power Supply, you can just get any PSUs or any 1200W. I did notice it was pulling just over 1000W the other night but I didn't check which algorithm it was doing. There is another Corsair 1200W for $50 less than mine. I don't know the difference, but it wasn't available when I ordered, so I just threw down for $300.

Good luck! Let me know if you run into trouble and I'll look at my settings or whatever.

Actually, I would feel more comfortable recommending something like this with an external power source. Only because we don't know what the OR's demand will be (atleast I do not).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/EasyAcc%C2%AE-bus-powered-self-powered-Ultrabooks-Microsoft/dp/B00ID270ZU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1452086495&sr=8-5&keywords=powered+usb+3+0+hub

So I ordered these two cables:

HDMI
and
USB

Turns out the 10 foot USB does not work on the Samsung Odyssey for me. I tried it in several USB ports and I keep getting the message to connect my headset. I tried it with a simple USB key and that worked.

Returning the 10 foot USB and getting the 6 foot instead.

The HDMI works perfectly.

In the Radeon 200 Series we added the ability to support 3 concurrent non-DP connections. These must be connected to the system at boot time, and cannot be hotplugged while the system is on. The 290X/290 is the exception to the "no hotplug" rule (hardware reasons).

You can connect 2xDVI + 1xHDMI at boot and all three should work. The fourth monitor, if not natively DisplayPort, must be adapted with an active adapter and connected to the GPU's DisplayPort socket.

Here is an active HDMI-to-DP adapter. Here is an active DVI-to-DP adapter.

If that fourth monitor requires Dual Link DVI for maximum functionality, the active adapters for DL-DVI are considerably more expensive at $50-100 each. DL-DVI has more complicated timings and signalling that makes the adapter electronics more expensive.

Walls

• 2x Monster LED Strip https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  
• 2x(Pack) Art3d Wall Panels https://www.amazon.com/Art3d-Textures-Panels-Diamond-Design/dp/B073NZ67LK
  
  
• Scotch Mounting Tape https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Outdoor-Mounting-60-inches-411P/dp/B0083K36KA
  
  
• 3 Light Floor Lamp https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-64-Track-Tree-Floor-Lamp-Black/12173440
  
  
• 3x Monster RGB Bulbs https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  Room
  
  
• Fluance Ai60 Speakers - White Walnut https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-*Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• Kanto Speaker Stands 26" https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-SP26PLW-Bookshelf-Speaker-Stands/dp/B07K4XHRYM
  
  
• noblechairs ICON Chair - Blue/Graphite Real Leather https://www.amazon.com/noblechairs-ICON-Gaming-Chair-*Midnight/dp/B072JKB516
  
  
• Basenji/Boston Terrier Dog
  
  
• Sherpa Dog Cuddle Throw https://www.amazon.com/Life-Comfort-Microfiber-Polyester-Ultimate/dp/B01JNMI5BQ
  
  
• Call It Spring 10.5 Brisbourne https://www.callitspring.com/us/en_US/men/footwear/casual-shoes/Brisbourne/p/11152086
  
  
• Sandles - Generic (Circa 2011)
  
  
• New Balance 10.5 (Circa 2009)
  
  
• Uni USB C SD/MicroSD Card Reader https://www.amazon.com/MicroSD-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07DJT5GPT
  
  Desk (Left)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• XXL Mouse Mat - Map https://www.amazon.com/Cmhoo-Professional-Large-Computer-35-4x15-7x0-1IN/dp/B01F0XHA5E
  
  
• $150.00 US Cash
  
  
• Dell 24" Touch Screen https://www.amazon.com/Dell-P2418HT-23-8-Touch-Monitor/dp/B01NBX1Q2T
  
  
• Dell Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Business-Multimedia-Keyboard-KB522/dp/B00CBDEEG0
  
  
• Dell Mouse https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-MS111-P-Optical-BUTTON-Original/dp/B014LDW8BK*
  
  Desk (Center)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 60x30 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA216030MY-Valencia-2-Inch-Mahogany/dp/B00272N3DK
  
  
• 2x Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2 https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26
  
  
• 2x Raspberry Pi 3B https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-MS-004-00000024-Model-Board/dp/B01LPLPBS8
  
  
• Raspberry Pi 4 2GB https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-4-2gb.html
  
  
• 1x(Pack) SanDisk 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-MicroSD-Ultra-UHS-1-Memory/dp/B00CNYV942
  
  
• Samsung PRO 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B98GXQT/ref=twister_B07DLWKFTM
  
  
• Mercedes Petronas Lanyard https://f1store.formula1.com/stores/f1/en/product/mercedes-amg-petronas-lanyard/224526
  
  
• 2x Pixio 27" 95Hz IPS HDR https://www.amazon.com/Display-FreeSync-Certified-Productivity-Warranty/dp/B07PZX54QC
  
  
• Viotek 49" 144Hz VA HDR https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• 3x DisplayPort Cable - 6ft https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Capshi-Braided-Laptop-Monitor/dp/B07GDBXWCQ
  
  
• Cable Matters DisplayPort Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1G74
  
  
• Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7S1B4W
  
  
• 2x VIVO Gas Spring Monitor Arm https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Adjustable-Articulating-Counterbalance-STAND-*V001O/dp/B01NH0HTM5
  
  
• VIVO TV Desk Stand https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Universal-Screen-Table-STAND-TV00K/dp/B01CQ0E01Q
  
  
• ASUS ROG Mouse Mat XL https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Sheath-Gaming-Mouse-Pad/dp/B01G5ATZAE
  
  
• ROG Claymore Core Keyboard - Cherry MX Brown https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Claymore-Core-Cherry-Red/dp/B01NGTJBUA
  
  
• ROG Gladius II 12000 DPI Mouse https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Gladius-II-Origin-Acceleration/dp/B078YBG1VZ
  
  
• 2x Samsung Galaxy Tab E 9.6" https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Black-Wi-Fi-SM-T560NZKUXAC/dp/B0161UWH76
  
  
• 2x Walmart ONN 10" Tablet https://www.walmart.com/ip/Onn-10-1-16-GB-Android-Tablet-Bonus-20-off-Walmart-eBooks-Included/258891221
  
  
• 2x KABCON Tablet Stand https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Angle-Adjustable-Aluminum-Microsoft-Countertop/dp/B074J159V5
  
  
• 2x SmartStand Mobile Device Holder https://www.amazon.com/SmartStand-Mobile-Device-Holder-Phones/dp/B0036WTD5C
  
  
• Xbox Wireless Controller - Recon Tech Special Edition https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Special-Discontinued/dp/B06XT99YW5
  
  
• REMOTE (Yamaha Soundbar) https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YAS-107BL-Built-Subwoofers-Bluetooth/dp/B071ZN5PSS
  
  
• REMOTE (Fluance Speakers) https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• REMOTE (Roku Streaming Stick+) https://www.amazon.com/Roku-Streaming-Stick-HDR-Streaming-Long-range/dp/B075XLWML4
  
  
• REMOTE (Viotek 49" Monitor) https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• REMOTE (Samsung 42" 4k HDR TV) https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-43-class-led-nu6900-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/6268402.p?skuId=6268402
  
  
• Fostex TH-X00 Ebony Headphones https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-fostex-tr-x00-ebony-headphones
  
  
• Gator Weighted Microphone Stand https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Frameworks-Weighted-Microphone-Dimensions/dp/B00BPELU68
  
  
• Blue Yeti Nano Microphone https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-Premium-Recording-Streaming/dp/B07DTTGZ7M
  
  Desk (Right)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• MSI GS65 STEALTH-006 Gaming Laptop https://www.bestbuy.com/site/msi-15-6-gaming-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-512gb-solid-state-drive-matte-black-with-gold-diamond-cut/6321439.p?skuId=6321439
  
  Computer
  
  
• AMD - Threadripper 1950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor
  
  
• AMD - RX5700 XT 50th Anniversary Edition
  
  
• NVIDIA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Founders Edition
  
  
• Corsair - H115i PRO 55.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
  
  
• Asus - ROG ZENITH EXTREME EATX TR4 Motherboard
  
  
• 2x G.Skill - TridentZ RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
  
  
• Intel - Optane 900P 480 GB PCI-E Solid State Drive
  
  
• Western Digital - SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
  
  
• Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV TG ATX Tower Anthracite Gray
  
  
• Corsair - HX Platinum 1200 W 80+ Platinum
  
  
• Red Sleeve Extension Power Supply Cable Kit https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Sleeve-Extension-Extra-Sleeved-PIN-Red/dp/B0719Q59YC
  
  
• (Software) Windows 10 LTSC
  
  
• (Software) GameGlass

So I have the same issue. And simply couldn't find the adapter. I did however have great success finding Thunderbolt3 to Displayport 1.2 adapters.

This one is $15


This one is quite a bit more expensive but has 2 displayports

Make sure you read the max resolution on the cables or adapters. I almost bought the 3 in one but I have a 2650x1440 monitor and that adapters max resolution is 1920x1200. All the devices listed so far are actually. This one http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-HDMI®-Adapter/dp/B006F8CPPE will do 2650x1440 if you need it. This one will do 3840x2160 if going to hdmi http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters®-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451112979&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+display+port+active+adapter. When searching search for mini display port active adapter.

Do you use something like this?

USB Type C Adapter,ITANDA USB C Type to Mini DisplayPort/Mini DP Adapter Cable With Aluminium Case Support 4K resolution for Apple New Macbook 2016, ChromeBook Pixel - Grey

Many laptops have a USB-C port that is capable of being used in displayport mode, and transmitting a displayport signal.

I have 2 Dell displayport monitors that I connect to my MacBook Pro using one of these cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/

There are also adapters like this for existing cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2ORP84/

Since what you're looking at is "thunderbolt 3 compatible", I believe that also means it'll work in displayport mode.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DLSFPBY

Works great, even using it with my Lenovo work laptop

Hi all, thanks for the feedback, I decided to lick my wounds and just buy one one these, I can make the male connections without issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Keystone-Line-Coupler/dp/B00WKPK1B6/ref=sr_1_15?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481508850&sr=1-15&keywords=female+to+female+cat+6

thanks for all your help.

You don't have to spend $500 on optical cables like that guy.

I extended an extra 10ft (for 25ft total) after the breakout box by spending $27 shipped - and I have a spare HDMI extender left:

www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Extension-Foscam-Agasio-Wireless/dp/B00V5QY53Q

www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B008219UMI

www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI

I also recommend using a carabiner clip on your back belt loop to keep the cable away from your arms.

Look into a VGA-Component cable (assuming your TV supports component in)

Other options are something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Monitor-FOINNEX-Connecting-Laptop-HDTV-Male/dp/B071SHJ1S3/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522702148&sr=1-6&keywords=vga+to+component+6ft

This is what a riser looks like, and then generally you get custom cases like this, although I generally build cases with the same design.

Not sure about the webcam specs, check the app requirements. Or ask the lady to recommend something? You might need an adapter like this.

I have 3 different types, one of which seems to be about the same as the first one you linked.
The second type is similar, but in red, and the third is the exact ones your second link points to.
I'm not sure why our experiences would differ like this, though there is probably a good bit of variation between superficially similar risers.
I'll do some more fiddling with my rig that uses the first type of riser. I don't think it'll change much, because I've always tried to use the VGA power cords when possible, exactly because I have been concerned about overloading SATA connectors.

What I effectively meant was buying these items:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Keystone-Line-Coupler/dp/B00WKPK1B6/ref=pd_sim_23_92?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7KG188J5T6JDQWF4Y33E

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-20-Pack-Keystone-Inserts/dp/B01AYKR63O/ref=pd_sim_147_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01AYKR63O&pd_rd_r=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R&pd_rd_w=nmR9i&pd_rd_wg=TYs0U&psc=1&refRID=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plate-6-Port-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HF8U/ref=pd_sim_147_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IO3HF8U&pd_rd_r=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R&pd_rd_w=nmR9i&pd_rd_wg=TYs0U&psc=1&refRID=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Gold-Plated-Keystone/dp/B0100R444U/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0100R444U&pd_rd_r=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R&pd_rd_w=nmR9i&pd_rd_wg=TYs0U&psc=1&refRID=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R

I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oculus Rift Facial Interface & Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/

Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx

I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.

I can confirm that this one works [however, I use it with a usb a-c OTG adapter].https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G4CJM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You want to make sure it has

Display Link Chipset

and if it doesn't work outta the box just get the display link app and give that a gohttps://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.displaylink.presenter&hl=en

This works flawlessly for me. You'll need the adapter I linked as well

HDMI

USB

Adapter

Yeah! I got this one. There are more stylish ones but this was a good price and has worked flawlessly for me so far!

If you do go down that route you might have to try several different cables to get them to work it seems to be specific to people's Motherboard and GPU. For me, 980ti, this USB 3.0, HDMI and HDMI Repeater worked. Regardless of what you choose definitely pick up a HDMI Repeater or a HDMI to DVI dongle, it seems to be the key factor to get extensions to work for a bunch of peeps.

So something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502143135&sr=8-3&keywords=active+adapter+mini+displayport+to+dvi

I guess some have better drivers than others from what I've read. Here is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006AA04K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tMBFAb3KXSMGJ

So my adapter just arrived, and my tablet (and pen function) works! I just used a usb-c to mini displayport adapter (I'm not sure if brand matters, but I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/ITANDA-DisplayPort-Aluminium-resolution-ChromeBook/dp/B01N2ORP84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503860489&sr=8-2&keywords=itanda+usb-c+to+mini-displayport+adapter ). I currently do not have 4k display, but I will now be getting a mini displayport cord which does support 4k in order to get this. Based off what I've seen, this should allow me to get 4k even using the Wacom Link (despite what Wacaom says). All in all, not as good as using the regular thunderbolt cable they provide (lots more cables on my desk now), but it works now.

Like was stated, a HDMI splitter will not work for what you want to do.


You can look into a docking station https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-usb-c-hubs-and-docks/


or maybe a USB to HDMI https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Graphics-Multiple-Monitors-2560x1440/dp/B01C6HBJOA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G4R73Z3ZAV7QHNS9VBFH

I use a Display-port to USB-C adapter and plug it into my 2080ti's VirtualLink port. It works for the display, you still have to plug in the power and USB cords unlike a true VirtualLink cord.

Here's the exact adapter I use: https://www.amazon.com/Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-ChromeBook/dp/B01NBX352B

? all I needed was a coupler, a standard HDMI cable, and a usb 3.0 extension. All passive.

Those are the exact ones I use.

I think it’s a power or throughput issue. The only time I’ve seen a USB-C hub that has more than one USB-C port always have two USB-C connectors back to the MacBook Pro.

Aluminum Thunderbolt 3 USB Type-C 2016/2017 MacBook Pro Hub Adapter Dongle with HDMI. 1-year Warranty. 40Gbps TB3, 4K HDMI Video Output, USB-C, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2x USB 3.0(Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZTQ895/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Kd2IAb8RA23ZD

USB C Hub, Nicetech NT-10 USB C hub 3.1 with Type C Charging Port, 40Gbs Thunderbolt 3, 4K HDMI Video Output, SD TF Card Readers, 2 USB 3.0 Ports for MacBook Pro 2015/2016, USB C hub now in Space Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Z2C8T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ue2IAbDW4P81P

I did find this one hub, which may work. Mixed or insufficient reviews:

USB C Hub,NIGI USB C Multiport Adapter 3.1 with Power Delivery Type C Charging Port ,Micro sd Card Reader,2 USB 3.0 Port,1 USB C Port for MacBook Pro 2015/2016, Google Chromebook 2016 - Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY96CWH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7e2IAb2QZV6XH

You could always try the reverse with this adapter, if the device doesn’t require too much power or speed:

USB C to USB Male Adapter, Acessorz Mini Hi-speed USB C Female (Type-C) to USB A Male (Type-A) Fast Charging Sync Connector Converter OTG Adapter for Laptop / Wall Car Charger with USB A Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LHXVNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mh2IAbRB8Y075

Then there’s always the big guns:

Wavlink Aluminum USB 3.0 Universal Laptop Docking Station & Vertical USB-C Display Dock Dual Video Display HDMI/DVI/VGA, Gigabit Ethernet, 2 USB-C Ports, 4 USB 3.0 Ports, Audio Supports Windows & Mac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7PP31E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6n2IAbTR3534X

Wavlink USB 3.0 & USB C Ultra HD/5K Universal Docking Station, Dual 4K Dual Video Monitor Display with 2xDisplay Port, 2xHDMI, Gigabit Ethernet, Audio out and Mic in,4 USB 3.0 Port, 2 Type C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BG9YVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ek2IAbQW6VHXF

StarTech.com TB3DKDPMAW Thunderbolt 3 Dock - 4K - Laptop Docking Station - Thunderbolt to USB-C / USB 3.0 / Gb Ethernet - Mac / Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSEKBNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Yk2IAbFJX2S8X

It just may be possible to get a USB 3DS Charger and a mini USB [converter] (http://www.amazon.com/USB-Female-Mini-Male-Adapter/dp/B0016RNX2I). Would that be any help?

Active digital converters are a thing...
Such as this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420231885&sr=8-1&keywords=active+mini+displayport+to+dvi

I wasn't aware of that. The good news is, it's rs232 out of the scale, then I tested another cable that the 3pins that are supposed to transpose and extend, does just that, and then from that to a non-knockooff FTDI USB 2.0

I was a little concerned about the FTDI driver but I think the newer kernels have it built in?

USB C to USB Male Adapter, Acessorz Mini Hi-Speed USB C Female (Type-C) to USB A Male (Type-A) Fast Charging Sync Connector Converter OTG Adapter for Laptop/Wall Car Charger with USB A Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LHXVNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rqh5Bb0A0VZPM

I was going to pick up something like this.

sorry for the delay. now i have never used one of these things but if it works as it says it does then a usb c to displayport should do the trick. theyre made for notbooks really but its less money then a video card

edit : a link might help

https://www.amazon.com/Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Benfei-Converter-ChromeBook/dp/B01NBX352B/ref=asc_df_B01NBX352B/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198093101467&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15611999839919488946&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004518&hvtargid=pla-386556734840&psc=1

I've already managed it 20 feet with one of these I had lying around I had originally used with my CV1:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And a USBC to A cable I had but not sure the source.

This really is a case of experimenting and luck.

these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PS39BK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

seem to work well in my case.

I got you! (I don't know if this is it)

Belkin F3U200-08INCH DB15 8-Inch USB Joystick Adapter for SideWinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RIV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_URMOybRDCDVCZ

Did the same thing so don't feel bad. I used this model by Cable Matters for my DVI monitors on the dock.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-Female-Adapter/dp/B007NLEF3W

You want something like this. Your current cable is most likely a dvi output that switches to hdmi, but doesn't work as an hdmi out to dvi in. Those adapters work both ways; hdmi out/dvi in, or dvi out/hdmi in.

I envy you, your solution is so easy.

Use Samsung Dex

Hopefully Android Q brings this functionality to all phones in the future. I'm stuck with a Pixel 2 ND it can't even do HDMI out through USB.

e.g.

VGA to HDMI Cable 1.8m/6 Feet (Old PC to New TV/Monitor with HDMI) ,FOINNEX VGA to HDMI Cable with Audio For Connecting Old PC,Laptop with a VGA output to NEW Monitor,HDTV.Male to Male , ALL-IN-ONE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SHJ1S3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2deWAbZAJXN8H

Hopefully there's a docking station available for your laptop model so you can just conveniently drop your laptop in whenever you want to hook up.

Oculus have recommended these adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM/

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B086B-005B-2-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Passive/dp/B00DUTIYMY/

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-Female-Adapter/dp/B007NLEF3W

These work fine for me, I use them on my breakout box

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004VR9VXK/

I've got a 980Ti and I just bought these two extenders, both work fine for me.

10ft usb

10ft hdmi

I think the Intel guys are full of shit, but if that is what they are saying your next step is then meh. You need something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDSZYII

Plus a DVI cable then too.

The cables you linked to on Amazon are not active cables. You will need to use the link that Smarmysnail post and click on the HDMI model.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDSZYII

Would this guy work?

I have a soundblaster audigy card with a gameport on it. Never use it, although, it's not the end of the world if you don't have one readily available: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F3U200-08INCH-Joystick-Adapter-SideWinder/dp/B000067RIV

Here's one that claims 1440p:
Link

Can you let me know which adapter exactly you use?

Is it this one? https://smile.amazon.com/Plugable-Graphics-Multiple-Monitors-2560x1440/dp/B01C6HBJOA/

I actually prefer this. Then OP can use your run of the mill HDMI cables. But beware OP, you still won't get sound.

not a switch...and I may be oversimplifying.

Type-C USB Adapter

Type-C w/ HDMI+VGA

then simply move the type-c between the 2

Is your Mini DP to DVI adapter an "ACTIVE" adapter? That's usually the culprit.

Male DVI

Female DVI

Just plug this into a USB 2 hub

Generic USB A Female to Mini USB B 5 Pin Male Adapter (SF4814) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016RNX2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KPGRBbTN3P14Z

Easily solved...

It could be the cable. I had the same radio and recall the same issue.

In the end, I went with this cable:

Sabrent USB 2.0 to Serial (9-Pin) DB-9 RS-232 Adapter Cable 6ft Cable [FTDI Chipset] (CB-FTDI) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006AA04K0/

And all was right in the world.

Get one of these or one of these. Then you can drill a hole in the ashtray, glove box, storage cubby, center console etc. to run the cable.

None so far. I have 17 gpus on them right now. I am using mostly this brand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PS39BK/ref=psdc_3015403011_t1_B01N3UVJHM

This and a active-hdmi/ds

Is it Mini display port or full size?

Mini: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453060532&sr=8-3&keywords=active+displayport+dvi

Full size: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453060532&sr=8-1&keywords=active+displayport+dvi

Ahhhh finally found it. USB-C to Mini DisplayPort Adapter, ITD ITANDA 4K Thunderbolt 3 to Mini DP Adapter Cable for Apple New MacBook 2017, ChromeBook Pixel Samsung S8(No Thunderbolt 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2ORP84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8FSTDb1555YBK

Since you only have 1 HDMI out you could also get this to connect a second monitor to your laptop. Just uses 1 USB port.

Just buy a USB-A to C converter and use a USB-C cable. That’s what I did.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075LHXVNV/

It happens regardless if the pro is docked or not, but I'm using the following display port adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDSZYII/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E71GNBI/

Some cheap chinese thing probably... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ID270ZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered these two, do you think this will work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006AA04K0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N8VEG7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I use this one:

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006AA04K0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The USB-C hub I use is this one:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J4BO0X8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then I use a USB to HDMI which you can find here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6HBJOA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an Asus 1060 6GB. It is working with this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

I'm also using this USB extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

But, the USB extension would involve the motherboard more than the video card.

This one works.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDSZYII

I've been using this hdmi cable without issue since May with my Asus strix 970

also using this usb extension

Here you go
the adapter

Here you go.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067RIV

http://www.amazon.com/game-Adapter-Rockfire-RM-203-gameport/dp/B004HAX7OU

En amazon esta u$s 19, no se cuanto tardará en llegar, pero lo podes comprar con tarjeta.

Edit: acá hay uno mas barato: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F3U200-08INCH-Joystick-Adapter-SideWinder/dp/B000067RIV/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JHGTV5ZF6N6WREG6RAZ

Im waiting on a Technoskin carrying bag with compartments for charger and several games/sd cards.

I have this 10ft long usb extension cable that makes it so I dont have to hug a wall.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008219UMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oclkybHBZW5WB

The HDMI cable did not work because it was not an active cable. Either get this plus this to maybe solve your problem or get this plus this. I have this cable coming tomorrow so I will know if it will work or not then. I am making a breakout box for my Rift.

Did the Rift showing any warning in Settings - Device? Maybe try conntect to dvi port by using a dvi to hdmi adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-Female-Adapter/dp/B007NLEF3W

I use a USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable and plug in the unifying receiver in to it that way I can move it close to where I sit and I have no problems. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B008219UMI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1520717139&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+extension+cable&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800928011

UGH. I'm in the same boat. I might take on chance on this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2ORP84/

It seems more reputable than other options that are shipping from China.

I've been using 3 of these hung off a trashcan for 4-5 years now with no trouble. I think the key is that they're active

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDSZYII/

​

Make sure you've read this article, there are a few caveats when using multiple displays on a trashcan and all these could be a source of your problem:

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202801

I would recommend Mailiya v006C, zero issues and very clean nicely soldered boards.

Mailiya v006C Wonderful risers.







Don't use Ubit v103C, those things are trash and caused me hours of headache. I opened 7 of them and only 4 worked. Poor soldering, splattered solder, missing solder, poor power. Even the ones that did work did not play nice with the MSI Armor series of cards. I wish I kept them longer to analyze but by the time I had enough I just wanted to get my money back. The ones here... do not buy.

Edit: Thanks for the downvotes. Fuck me for having a bad experience with your precious Ubit.

Every USB port and GPU will function differently. The USB wattage draw is high enough to drop the voltage some across the cable. Some USB ports start out at 5.2-5.3 volts and they work better. Most "front" USB 3.0 ports already have a 18-24 inch extension and don't perform as well. The 10ft cables below work perfectly for me on a high end x299 rig with the 5v USB 3.0 and 3.1 that tap off the 12v bus. On another rig but the same odyssey + Headset the sound cuts out.


These are the best for for me.
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension Cable in Blue 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

If the 10 foot has problems for you the 3ft or 6ft might work. Try the Cable on Each USB port first. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

Also the controllers need high voltage batteries. If you use really good Panasonic Oneloop Pro's even they can give problems. When those NiMh's get down to about 1.2-12.5 volts (Even with 60% charge left) The odyssey can trigger a low battery warning and switch to 60hz mode degrading performance. https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3HCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSL28/

The way around this is to run 1.6V NiZn Rechargeable cells instead. https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Charger/dp/B00WTRSTAU/