Reddit mentions: The best usb-to-usb adapters

Warning: long post, but you asked, so... ;-) Note: Recycling some of my older comments with specifics for your post.

What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to walk around, or just enough to swing your arms? What kind of games do you prefer? These answers have an impact on the "best" headset (HMD) for you. Think of it this way: what's the best car? The answer is different if your priorities are fuel economy, cargo space, towing capacity, or top speed/acceleration.

"Best" Games:

"Best games" is really subjective. Do you like puzzle games? Action? RTS? "Experiences" Racing/flying/space simulators? FPS? (Note: FPS in VR is very different from FPS on a screen.) Each platform has enough good games that this shouldn't impact your buying decision much. I have favorites on each, but Oculus has the most exclusives. (Often considered a bad thing for the VR industry.)

I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey, and I've used the PSVR (briefly) so my comments are based on use of all three.

Easiest to use for a newbie:

The Rift is slightly easier to use than the Vive (though not by much) due to its streamlined and consumer-oriented user experience, at the cost of capability and options. The Vive has more options flexibility but can sometimes be a little more hassle to troubleshoot if things go wrong. Then again, fixing it when things go wrong is less likely to require a complete reinstall like Oculus does. Windows Mixed Reality setup is easy but it's clearly a Microsoft experience. It's like the Rift was designed by marketers, the Vive by engineers, and WMR by a project manager. Winner: Rift, by a hair, with WMR limping along in the rear.

Oculus Rift:

Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is slightly inferior to the Vive, but not much. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale. However, roomscale is feasible on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. Requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, 4 if you add a 3rd sensor. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps like LibreVR/ReVive, limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) More pronounced "god rays" than the Vive. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. HTC just opened its VR store to Oculus users so you have more buying options than you used to, though I prefer buying through Steam.

HTC Vive:

The Vive Pro is more than double the Vive's cost and isn't that much better, so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has somewhat better tracking than the Rift and Roomscale works slightly better, in my experience. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. Games are (usually) purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and not every game works. (Tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3.0 and one HDMI port. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB.

Samsung Odyssey (WMR):

Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (gridlines between pixels) than others. This is very nice for detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims with small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others and it's easy to accidentally end up in a menu. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so roomscale is somewhat limited. There are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, breaking tracking. While tracking isn't perfect, it's "good enough" and I bring it with me regularly.

Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:

The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences.) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment to save cost. IPD means interpupilary distance and is the distance between your eyes. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience so I'd recommend one that has it. The Samsung Odyssey and Lenovo Explorer are the only WMR that I've heard consistently good things about. The others are cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both. Note: WMR requires Windows to be completely up to date and will hang upon installlation (when you plug in your HMD) with no apparent reason why. Update Windows before using.

PSVR:

Poor quality lenses and tracking that isn't on par with the others, even WMR. This is what you buy if you own a Playstation and can't afford/aren't interested in buying or building a gaming PC. Some nice exclusives, though. IPD adjustment isn't great.

A note about VR graphics:

To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can reduce model/texture complexity. However, people have done amazing things with VR so you simply don't notice. Lone Echo (Oculus exclusive), for example, has stunning visuals. (Story, mechanics, and pure immersive feeling are also excellent.) Lone Echo is VR done right, and feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. The Climb is currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. Follow this guide and remove Immersive Armor (buggy), replace WICO with TCM, and you're set... after 6 hours of setup. ;-) All of that said... you're looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. You are going to notice the pixels, but you'll forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the experiences and visuals. The only exception will be games with small details like flight/space sims. These really need higher res than VR can realistically provide though this may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll mostly forget about the issue.

Cable lengths:

All VR HMD cables are too short. You can buy extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no apparent reason. I've found this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable works to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend Rift cameras. If you buy both a Vive and a Rift at some point, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs can go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.

TL;DR:

My recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift unless you can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), in which case I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be seated, in highly-detailed simulators or similar games, or unless you bring it with you a lot.

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
  
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  > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
  
  Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
  
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  > This does require you to have a lit room
  
  This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
  
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  > Controller tracking 8/10
  
  I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
  
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  > You will notice some black smear
  
  I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
  
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  > Colors are also very vibrant
  
  I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
  
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  > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
  
  Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
  
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  > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
  
  Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
  
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  > The damn nose flaps.
  
  I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
  
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  > They are comfortable and easy to position.
  
  I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
  
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  > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
  
  Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
  
  I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

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As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

Here is another picture of the sensor itself:

http://imgur.com/VJgtyLj

Here is the gear that I used:

Light Stands (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/) - These things are great. Very easy to setup, very small base (can be expanded if you want, but the sensors are light and they seem very stable).

Mini Ball Heads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4) - Make for easier adjustment and greater tilting.

USB Cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ - 10 ft, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ - 6 ft) - Passive were fine for the two sensors at that length.

Very happy to get these off my desk and higher up. I need to get my third sensor setup as well because the angle that they are pointing makes it tough to detect at the back of my play space (it's about 6 x 9).

Overall very happy with the setup and all the advice I received from this board. This is a really great community.

Hey guys, trying to get into the scene here and I feel like my phone isn't enough for my HD598. If someone could help me out that would be great.

I use an Honor 8 and HD598s. I'd like to get a bit more out of them, especially volume wise and I'm looking into the audioquest dragonfly or Audioengine D3. First off, which one would be better for sound quality and volume? I listen to a wide range of music so just generally which one would be better.

Second, would an HD598 do well with either one of those?

Third, can an Honor 8 power them sufficiently?

Fourth, I'd like to use this to connect them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01COOQIKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520274495&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+3.1+otg&dpPl=1&dpID=31u9EgABWmL&ref=plSrch

Overall, would this combo be alright and would the Honor 8 be able to completely power the Dragonfly/D3 and would the dragonfly/D3 be a good pair with the HD598?

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

• 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)
  
  
• 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)
  
  
• 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)
  
  
• Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.
  
  
• Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)
  
  After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
  
  Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  

I'm using these....

HMDI

USB

Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

I purchased;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D378SW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(various dk2 users recommended passive (copper to copper) couplers for use with HDMI connectors, this is what I found on Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194F1MY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(this was recommended for users that don't have two hdmi outputs and use a TV for a monitor, etc. The 970gtx typically has a DisplayPort out. This adapter I believe can be used for either the rift or your external tv etc. My importance is for 4k Video with Audio. This is the go to cable. The 4k capability here is very important with the Rift. This cable is verified to work.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(these or AmazonBasics seem to be the goto USB 3.0 extension cables, DK2/CV1 owners recommend AmazonBasics, but they are all sold out. These are the next best bet. I plan on using this to go through my wall to my Powered USB 3.0 Hubs).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I bought this as its a reliable brand, 4 port usb POWERED hub, you are going to get better results with USB 3.0 when its powered and extended due to obvious cable length limitations.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OSCJ7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(As the DisplayPort to HDMI was by Club3D, this cable is highly rated and reliably 4k Capable, I figured it was a no brainer).

Hope that helps, I feel confident, through my research I should be able to accomplish what I want. I know USB limits you to 15ft, but in my experience when you use powered USB hubs, you can get beyond that. And worst case scenario, you can convert the USB to Cat5 and go much further distances.

I figured, if something doesn't work, I always have use for adapters and hubs. Again my goal was just to get through my wall and have the PC in another room (less than 20foot overall, but I heard the Rift cables are 9ft?) So the Rift setup would end up being 9ft or so in my living room I think.

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

I'd avoid moving the sensor around between standing and sitting. If you move sensors you ideally should redo the setup. That would get pretty annoying fast. Just find a placement that handles both.

Yes the 3rd sensor comes with a USB 2.0 extension and I would recommend using it. When on USB 3.0 the sensor sends raw images back to your PC on the USB bus using ~76MB/s per sensor. When on USB 2.0 the sensor sends back jpeg compressed images to the PC using ~16MB/s which is substantially less and really doesn't affect tracking performance too much.

If you really want to prepare for everything when your Rift arrives. I recommend you get this card from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Amazon shipped this form USA to Australia really cheaply. Don't try to get a "similar" card from somewhere locally. This one with this chipset is supported by Oculus and works. 9 times out of 10 people with tracking issues battle their system for weeks and when they get this card the problems are fixed.

I know you have enough ports at present but it is more than just available ports on your PC. Have a read of the blog posts Oculus did on this topic.

https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-tips-for-setting-up-a-killer-vr-room/

https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/

https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/

Finally if you are getting that card from Amazon save on shipping and get the extension cables for the headset itself (and the sensors for the back room).

Don't try to push the headset extension more than 6 feet as you wont need it and can possibly run into issues. Again it is important you get cables that are known to work. People have tried a huge range of different cables and lengths and not everything works. Learn from their experience.

TLDR: you want these if you want to be 100% ready for when it arrives for any issues that might arise. The Rift could work out of the box without any of this. But if you have issues these things will likely fix them and also give you enough cabling length to get everything setup exactly how you want. Another tip. If you have issues don't fight them just get these things to fix it and save your sanity.

PC

USB Card - https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Headset

6ft USB - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO

6ft HDMI - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/

Sensors Extensions

6ft or 10ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/

There are different accessories I have bought and has made my experience better.

Cable management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio upgrade:

- Cheap (For just exploring around and watching videos) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B486K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Expensive (Mainly for playing games and having a mic instead of the built in mic since it's buggy on the headset) - https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3D960PSK6KV35&keywords=hyperx+cloud+flight&qid=1564661727&s=electronics&sprefix=hyperx+cloud+%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRkdWSElOUU5JREhTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDYwNzUxMVZSTjVPU1pFS0Y1USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTEwOTk2MVgyMkUwMjdWRlo1MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

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Controller grips:

These arrive today so I can't say if they are good or bad yet but I've only heard good - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCF9P73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've had these for awhile and they work great (if you have larger hands, these are perfect) - https://www.mamutvr.com/collections/upcoming/products/mamut-touch-grip

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Headset power:

I've heard people have had tracking issues due to insufficient power from their usb ports, my RTX 2080 has a dedicated USB-Type C that I use to power my headset and haven't had any tracking issues - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Rechargeable batteries for the controllers:

I've heard other people recommend different batteries but these have worked well for me - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM3P8GS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Listening to the Cobalt now. It's probably better if one has no experience with the Dragonfly Red. Since I haven't used the DFR, I'm a good candidate to have a better experience with the Cobalt.

The exterior containment (chassis?) and the logic board are not attached to each other, so there's some movement of the - chassis? - wiggling. Doesn't seem to affect anything in my use. The 3.5mm jack and USB port are both solid and have no give - unless you compare it to the wiggling chassis. While the concern over this wiggle seems overblown to me, I also understand why the concern is justifiable. It seems like a problem that could have been avoided by better or more exact measuring.

Getting low enough volume is an issue, because I have to carefully manually adjust the volume to slightly less than the first step on both Android and iOS. It's a minor concern. This is something I have to do with the (fake) Beyerdyanmic Xelento and Alclair Electro. Less so with the iSine 10, which I can tolerate one more step. Oddly enough, I can adjust the volume higher with the IMR R2 Aten. I also tried the Cobalt with Monoprice Monolith M1060 V1, and was able to get to a good volume for me. No clipping, but as a low volume listener, I'm not going to be pushing it with my gear.

I like the Cobalt well enough, but will probably sell it eventually. Is it worth the retail price? No. I probably couldn't tell it from a volume matched iPhone dongle (I'm not joking). Fortunately, my confirmation bias has set in, so I'll be using it for a bit. Currently happily streaming Tool's 10,000 Days from an iPhone through the Cobalt to the R2 Aten. Listened to Lateralus twice with the same combo. To Cobalt's credit, it doesn't get very warm, even in my pocket for all that time. Still, don't think I'll be recommending the Cobalt to friends I want to keep. Certainly not at retail price.

Oh, I also used this Amazon Basics USB-C to USB adapter and found no difference between that and the Dragontail except color, size, and shape. Seems to be an adequate alternative for me.

1. Photos is your all in one place. It is meant to simplify things like storage management. If you upload your photos, then you get all your photos, not just the ones on the device.
   If you want a device only gallery, there are a few in the Play Store that work pretty well. Piktures is a pretty polished alternative.
   
2. There is an app called Swipebubble that will mimic the old swipe to get into google now. However, if you want to keep the Google Now launcher, Google Now will always be on the left. I'd recommend picking up Nova Launcher, it is $0.99 right now and is well worth it. I'm not a fan of the hold to open google now either.
   
3. 2 pack Micro USB to Usb C adapters You get one for your wallet and one to stash somewhere else. These have Benson Leung's approval. According to Ampere, I am able to get a max of 1.4a using these. Not the greatest, but will be a lifesaver I'm sure.
   
   I just got mine 5x today and have been going through all the setup process. I did not know how slow my moto x 2013 had become until I started setting up the 5x.

Vrcover for sure
And don't get the PK Cell, get these

USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JBc7CbNV06EYV

Or these

CT ENERGY USB Rechargeable AA Batteries 1.5V/1600mAh Lithium ion Battery with 1.5 Hours Quick Charging Micro-USB Port Li-ion Double A Batteries (4packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3DBYV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sCc7Cb0R2DXZZ

I have both and they are great batteries.

Extensions that work:

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lDc7CbBE9E1R5

6ft


Cable Matters 200008-BLACK-6 USB to USB Extension Cable in Black 6 Feet Available 3FT 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ODc7CbA4Q82ZZ

6ft

And I like to use the usb-c port on my laptop. It's closer to the HDMI and seems like a stronger port when using the usb extension.

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Dc7CbJA5TMTV

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169650&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169808&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet

and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.

Well, the reviews look OK on that one. What I do on Amazon is I use the review search feature to search for "MacBook Pro" in the reviews to see what people's experiences are with it. Seems like a safe order since Amazon should let you return it if something is wrong.

I forgot to include the adapter links you asked for. There are two kinds. One is a very compact adapter that is cheap and easy to carry around:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Transfer-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B078NKPGW9/

The disadvantage is the USB-A end can be so wide that it blocks the adjacent port. To solve this is another type is on a short cable to get the wide USB A-part away from the laptop body.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DRG8RR/

As you can see these are often sold now in 2-packs for less than USD$10. Both kinds are so cheap I got a pair of both, so I have one of each type at the desk and one of each type in my bag.

Note that those adapters support USB 3 gen 1 at 5 Gbit/sec. This is fine for most things. But if maximum speed data transfers are a high priority (for example external SSD with USB 3.1 Gen 2 port), you could spend a little more to make sure you have adapter cables supporting the full 10 Gb/sec speed of the USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports on a current MacBook Pro.

When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.

I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.

For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.

For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (HDMI Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MT1EQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Controller)

The cable you linked to is just an adapter. You need a USB OTG cable. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_DguXBbG6KG58E

Your cable will allow you to plug USB devices into a computer with a mini-c port, but for anything to work with a phone, you have to get something that specifically says it has USB OTG.

As for drivers, nearly any phone should support it. However, some phones might not work with controllers. My phone doesn't work with gamepads over USB, even though it does work with keyboards, mice, and flash drives. Most phones should work with gamepads though.

EDIT: It's possible this is incorrect based on the other response that all USB-C cables support OTG. I would suggest testing other USB devices with this cable. If it works with a keyboard, mouse, or flash drive, but not a gamepad, you might be out of luck. I can't find if your phone supports OTG.

As a 6P owner, I'ma little biased but all that put aside, I came from a Note 3 so I had the same gripes as you: No expandable storage, no removable battery, etc...Here my solutions to those problems. For the most part the 6P battery will get me through a day of heavy use pretty easily (listening to spotify, watching videos, texting, emailing and whatnot). Just in case I always carry around a portable power bank. As for expandable storage, I would like to point out with Google's photo app, you receive unlimted storage for high quality photos, however, don't quote me on this, but at some point I believe past 1080P it starts to eat into a 10GB limit. I advise using a USB stick for external storage, it's small, portable, and overall very convenient. Best of luck making your decision! It's a tough one! If you have any questions about the 6P just let me know!

Edit: If you are strictly looking just to offload files to get more storage and not transfer them to a computer via usb, this Dongle gives you more storage and it costs less than the previous link. If you do want to move pictures and videos, you can always buy an adapter.

Huh. I've never looked for one, but you're right. I'm not coming up with anything, even on Amazon. That's saying a lot considering that I can buy a cat butt tissue holder on there.

Just to think outside the box, what about a USB-C to USB-A male adapter to convert the headphones to a USB-A connection, then use some sort of multi-port hub to connect everything.

I'm also pretty sure you can convert the USB-C monitor to plug into an HDMI port.

Yeah, it's a nightmare living the dongle life at the moment, but with USB-C becoming more common, hopefully, it won't be much longer.

Great! So, the Cable Matters USB3 10ft cable you linked seems to work for others.

But, the AmazonBasics HDMI 10ft cable sounds fishy in the reviews. A long with a bunch of other HDMI cables (10ft). One review said the 15ft cable worked great (amazonbasics).

Based on youtube, this one does not work at all.
Ultra Clarity Cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone is also saying it all depends on your motherboard?

My computer has a USB 3.0 port with the [battery]+ symbol, so I'm going to take a leap of faith and purchase the cables matter 10ft usb3 cable and the 10ft amazonbasics hdmi cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/


Should arrive a day before my Odyssey+

Nice. I originally ordered this but, somehow, the package was damaged in shipping and and sent back to Amazon. So, instead, I used this..

CHOETECH 3 Pack 1m/3.3ft USB Type C Cable Nylon Braided USB 3.0 A to USB C Cabl $11 right now

Along with this passive USB extender: Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet - $7.99 right now

This combo works great for me and I haven't noticed any major issues besides the Oculus Link Beta software not always seeing my Quest lol. Little over 13ft so not a ton of length but a decent amount. I just used a velcro strap on the back of my DAS to keep it from hanging. Idk if I'll get a longer cable in the future. I'm pretty okay with the length.

I haven't had any issues, even on games that don't have native WMR support. My only issue was the short cable with the Odyssey, but I picked up these three items to extend the cable and stick them to my desk and it's working perfectly and now has the same range as my vive did.

Something I should add, the og vive with wireless and a das would cost less than a vive pro, but you'd have wireless, which improves immersion drastically. Not to add another thing for you to consider and further complicate your decision making process.

Probably depends on the case, but the one that comes with the Google Pixel fits perfectly with the Spigen neo hybrid. http://i.imgur.com/YKIbhU3.png

I can't seem to find any exactly like it online though. Maybe one like this with the smaller C end casing?

If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;

Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!

The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.

I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.

Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.

Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;

Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0

KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2

US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension

DVI to HDMI Adapter:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1

CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0

US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0

UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable

US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable

Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater

US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater

Hope this helps :)

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EE-PW700BWEGUJ-Multiport-Adapter/dp/B01DN09RYI/

It's on the pricey side, but I'm actually using this Samsung adapter for my Asus C302. Great for USB A and for HDMI. Both work like a charm.

Does anyone know any good USB-C Chargers that actually supply the full 18w to an undocked switch? For example, is this charger good for it? I heard the Google Pixel 18w charger is good. Also, if I use a female USB-A to C adapter with my Pro Controller cable (example), would that support the full 18w charging?

I'd like a cheaper, USB-C both ends cable recommendation too.

> At the moment I'm just using the explorer on my phone to download from Drive, then copy to Music from Downloads. It's tedious as hell (especially since I'm super anal about songs being in folders by artist, and afaik I can't copy full folders, just files) so if there's a better way I'm all ears!

I have many, many, gigs of music organized in folders by artist, and then subfolders by album, so I feel your pain! It seems like you have figured a lot of this out, but I'll share my thoughts regardless. Hope they help.

I have never used a chromebook, but they are cloud-based aren't they -- there are no actual files on your chromebook, just in the cloud on Drive? If so, that is the source of your problem because you can't drag/drop folders from Drive (as far as I know). Going one by one, even multi-selecting in folders, will take forever.

The easier way is to get the files on a computer (in folders) and then use either a USB cable or an app like Superbeam to move entire folder structures. Note also that if you have the files on a USB drive you can plug the drive directly into your phone and use the phone (you will need an adapter like this one). I keep all my music files on a 1 TB seagate drive, and I just plug the drive into my phone whenever I need to move some files onto my N5X.

If the only place you have your files is Drive, then I think there may be no way around the tedious file-by-file download.

Android with a USB-OTG cable (Anker has good ones - this one is for USB C on the phone and connects directly to the Kobo microUSB cable) - but you can get other combos - connect phone to Kobo, transfer files between the two. Fast and easy.

I'm 100% sure this works because I do it sometimes with a Kobo [Clara] and a Samsung Note 8 - had some epubs on the phone that I wanted on the Kobo and vice versa. $8 solution.

Anything using cloud storage (Dropbox, etc) or FTP might work well too but maybe not on stock firmwares and it's not a big drawback to carry a tiny USB-OTG cable along on vacation, plus it's handy for other uses (external DAC/Amps, etc).

I'm running a similar setup to what you're looking at, just a bit shorter and less expensive. I couldn't see the need for the extra five feet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5ETHE/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/

Some zip ties, heat shrink and cable sleeving keeps it nice and tidy. I keep it clipped to the side of my desk with a binder clip to keep tension off the back of my computer. It also makes it nice and easy to disconnect when I'm not using it.

Other people have reported having good luck with the Vive box.

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-pc/dp/B01LXR6DKV/

If you go that route you'll also need to find a power supply and you still need to find cables.

I didn't have any luck with the Insignia cable from BestBuy. It's seems pretty hit or miss.

Right, I don't believe Fi is available outside the US.

I had purchased a pack of A- micro cables a few months before switching phones - I really liked the 1' length in the car.

I got a 2 pack of these techmatte adapters, and use 1 in the car and 1 on the cable to connect to my PC. I also used a little bit of heat shrink wrap to help make them stay on the cables a little better.

I am thinking about getting a true quick charge compatible car charger and an extra c-c cable for that, as I've noticed that with streaming music, gps, bright screen, and other things, the phone drains faster than the current charger can keep up.

so those adapters will make it so you have some extra charging options, albeit slower charging than the charger that came with the phone.

I've extended all my sensors and my headset to give me full use of my computer room using only passive. Sounds like you've already got this to work but here's what I use in case anyone else wants to know. Cost me in total, like $45 and everything works perfectly.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)

Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready

I just got this nailed down myself. At first, I followed Wirecutter's recommendation and bought the Satechi Multiport Adapter. It's a beautiful dongle, and it worked great for display, but my USB keyboard and wireless mouse plugged into the USB A ports would not work.

Yesterday I received the Samsung adapter that is made for TabPro S, which was recommended by Chrome Unboxed. Works perfectly, but only has one USB A. I'm waiting on a keyboard I ordered so both that and my mouse will connect to one Logitech Unifying Receiver.

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

Can you upload a couple of pics or short video of what the setup looks like under the charging pad? I wasn’t sure it would have enough clearance. Would be nice to see either way. Also, seems like if that brand of splitter would work, this one would have to work too: Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j4iSBb98Z0AHZ. Assuming that, I wonder what would be the most aesthetically pleasing would be.

Thanks for the replies... So, you're saying, if I buy a Mini-B adapter like this and plug it into the Harmony remote, then plug in a USB bluetooth adapter like the IOGEAR Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter (GBU521), the remote will power the adapter and allow me to pair with it on my PC?

I'm not sure that'll work for two reasons...

1. I don't think the Harmony Remote's USB controller is capable of powering Bluetooth dongle.
   
   
2. I don't think the Harmony Remote's USB controller is capable of being a USB Host.
   
   
3. I am a generally skeptical person.
   
   Thoughts?

I use these for my two front sensors that I’ve wall mounted without any issues:

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable / USB 3 Extension Cable) in Blue 10 Feet - Available 3FT - 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008219UMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TvycBbGJW4E8C

For my rear sensor, I bought the sensor through Best Buy and it came with a USB extension cable. I wasn’t sure if the extension was USB 3 or not so I just made sure I pulled it into a USB 2

Hope this helps!

The Nexus 6P has a huge battery, I was never anywhere close to running out of juice during that 8-hour event with all the video I was shooting.

Just to be safe though, in situations like this were draining my phone is a possibility I just carry a really thin battery bank in my pocket. Also, the peace of mind let's me go nuts and use my phone as much as I want, which is nice.

I use this one, along with a tiny micro usb to USB-C adapter I stick in my wallet.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRK8HJ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

Bought the recommended Anker cable and these:

USB 3.0 Extension: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yu30DbJSVHERE

USB C Right Angle: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078YRKTKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Aw30Db77XKPWZ

Anker cable and extension worked like a charm, however the right angle gave me connection issues so I am returning it. As well it took me a few tries on different use ports to find the one that worked for me. If anyone is looking for a extension this works well.

Other findings are that if the quest goes all black, its best to do a full restart and connection resumes as normal. If not check your connections.

I've used these with my Ride S and they work fine. Keep in mind it's about more than just you cables. It has to do with your USB ports too. I've found my IXT motherboards tend to work better than my ATX boards. I think the shorter traces of ITX make for better signal integrity.

So the same cable my work for some people and not for others. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?packageId=1&ref=ppx_yo2_mob_b_pop&orderId=112-5223028-2859402&lineItemId=kkkkmqkunpmvony&shipmentId=Dsp458cSP

That would probably work actually, and you're lucky in that the pi-zero can be backpowered thru the usb data port. AND it seems you can make it act like a gadget, which I didn't know.

https://www.rmedgar.com/blog/using-rpi-zero-as-keyboard-setup-and-device-definition

Making a portable hack gadget? Have fun with it.

Edit: I'd just make it into an A-type and use an adapter like this unless form factor is important. That way you can use it on A or C.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0

I have all 4 of my sensors mounted 7 ft up, I have switched back to only using 3 till I get this issue resolved.

I tried using the cable matters 16ft active USB 3.0 cable for one of my fronts sensors but it wouldnt detect as 3.0, so I swapped it for the 10ft passive one and it worked fine.

Here are the mounts and cable I have had success with:
Mount-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft USB 3.0 cable-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, I bought these 2 extension cables (6ft), wall mount for the headset/touch controllers and cable suspension system. They all work perfectly :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045532LU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777H24ZG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you are looking to make an extension cord I got one working using these:

• HDMI to DVI
  
• USB 3 extension
  
• High quality HDMI extension
  
  The HDMI to DVI is critical as DVI port gets more power allocated to it on your graphics card. It didn't work at all when I tested it without that. I do get a tiny bit of visual artifacts on all black loading screens (maybe a better hdmi cable could fix that) but all in all I am very happy with how it turned out. Now my headset cable is 5.5 meters long and I never have any problems playing room scale.

I bought this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ID270ZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1426084031&sr=8-2&pi=SL75&keywords=easyacc+3.0

Works like a charm, though it needs to be plugged into an outlet via USB adapter, like a phone charger. It didn't come with it's own adapter, but it was cheap and works great.

Edit: I should mention this is USB 3.0

So these are small things that may or may not be useful to you but I bought them when I got my Vive and if I were buying again, I'd get these again.

To extend the cable I got HDMI Extenders and USB Extenders. This gives you another 10 feet of cord to play with.

Also, switches for the lighthouses. You may find that using Bluetooth works fine, but I like physically switching mine on and off.

If you plan to move it around (take to places for demos) then I have some other recommendations too.

I have no experience with the 3rd party versions, but the official Tesla one is just part of the car. It feels like it was always there and will last with the car.
It was tough to justify the price, but I’m glad I did.

I got two Onvian splitters, neatly plugged in, wound up on themselves and used some black electrical tape to tuck everything up behind the pad. Thumb drive is up in there a bit, but accessible. Same with the ‘spare’ open USB port.

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6

Interesting. I actually have a usb splitter so I can run a ssd in the car. That means one of the two cables to the wireless pad is power-only. I'll check to see if it's the one side that is functional. Thanks =)

​

edit: heres the cable https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/

Just checked and the one with this splitter is the one functioning. So I ordered a second one. Will allow me to add a second ssd to boot.

These are the ones I'm currently using.

https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/

The important thing is to look in the reviews for Benson Leung's stamp of approval. His review is pretty much always the highest-rated one if he reviewed the product. If he hasn't reviewed a particular adapter or if he doesn't give it five stars, then stay clear.

I use the Cable Matters DP and USB cablse. Sorry my memory failed me, actually I just got the 1.8m (6 feet) it seems. I forgot I got a shorter one for the Rift S (had much longer 15' HDMI ones for cv1). The included cable on the Rift S being longer made this all I needed to reach all parts of my play space. I really just like to have something between the headset and my video card ports, and an easy access to unplug/replug right next to the couch, so these work perfect for me.

I did a quick search and found some folks talking about using at least 10' extension and maybe up to 5m, but couldn't find a link to a specific cable (I only looked for about 1 minute, I'm sure if you dust off your Google-fu you can find it if you really need one that long, I would imagine such a cable would include an active repeater and perhaps get kinda pricey).

Here is that thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/beloox/oculus_rift_s_display_port_extension/

And here are the one's I am using with no issues:

6' (1.8m) DP cable (Cable Matters):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1G74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6' USB cable (Cable Matters):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got this one from Best buy below. You should also check to make sure you have it plugged into a 3.0 port and also that the extender is USB 3.0 compatible as well. I also linked the us extender from Amazon below.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-bluetooth-4-0-usb-adapter-black/4884001.p?skuId=4884001

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable / USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 6 Feet - Available 3FT - 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FQC-AbJFAYJGV

So I've tested Link with an eGPU (external graphics card / dock). It eventually worked for me. Here are the specs:

• Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Aorus Gaming Box connected to a Lenovo Yoga 720-15 laptop via a 2-lane Thunderbolt 3 port with Windows 10. eGPU firmware is the latest one as of Nov 2019 with the TB bandwidth and fan spin fix.
  
• Oculus Quest was connected to the PC via AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-A 3.1 Gen 1 Charger Cable | 10 feet. It worked. Will test the recommended Anker cable today as well. My guess is that it will work too.
  
• The following adapter was used to test the Virtual Link port on the GPU: AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black. It also worked.
  
  Here are my observations:
  
  

1. Both the onboard USB 3.1 Gen 1 port (left side) and the Virtual Link port on the external GPU (the one that's a USB-C port found on most RTX GPU's) worked fine, and showed very similar performance.
   
2. Oculus software should not run the beta version, and Oculus Quest should not have Developer mode on.
   
3. Performance is OK, but is obviously considerably lower (at least by 20 to 40%) than had the Quest been connected to a conventional desktop PC with the same specs. Without the headset on the same eGPU setup, VR Mark Orange Room scores about 6000 points. With the headset on and running the test in Oculus virtual desktop (not natively on the HMD displays, though) shows the lowest of 4700 points. Onboard GTX 1050 2GB without the headset would show about 2500 points. My Yoga 15 is downvolted a bit with TB kept on.
   
4. Image definitely looks more blurry than I'd want, but I will keep fiddling with Oculus/SteamVR settings. I have also noticed timewarp artifacts on some objects over the edges when turning my head very fast, but those are sometimes there, and sometimes are not. Not sure what's the main cause yet.
   
5. You probably do not want to have anything connected to the same USB 3 hub or controller as the one that you have you Quest connected to when you initially connect it to the PC. When I had peripherals connected to the same Corsair ST100 Headphones Stand, Quest would had kept showing a red "x" until I would disconnect the other devices first. When I reconnected those while using the headset, everything was working fine, though; that is until I re-connected the Quest again. Other stuff had to be disconnected first from that hub again then.
   
6. Performance was 5-10% lower than when running VR Mark Orange Room via the Oculus Virtual desktop than when just running it on an internal display.
   
7. Performance seems to be the same when running Link with either an external monitor connected to the eGPU or with an internal monitor of the laptop itself.
   
8. The following cable DID NOT WORK: TOPWE USB Type C Cable USB C Cable (2 Pack 10FT) Type C Charger USB 3.0 Date Sync 3A Fast Charging Cable. DO NOT BUY THIS CABLE to use with the Quest, unless otherwise confirmed for your setup.
   
   Conclusion:
   
   I knew what I was getting into, but using a Rift S with such setup instead of the Quest/Link is preferred due to TB3 limitations when feeding the signal back to the PC. Ideally, you would not use Oculus Quest or even a Rift S with an eGPU setup, but this is the setup I have, so here we are: it is confirmed to be working on a Windows machine and an RTX 2070 eGPU, as long as you have proper USB 3 ports. This depends on your laptop, though, hence Virtual Link port can save the day for some people.

What phone do you have? For an Android from the past few years, you could use something like this. You'd plug it into your phone, then plug a flash drive with a lot of storage onto the other side. If your phone supports microSD you can get a big microSD card. Be careful though since a phone supports a Max size of microSD.

How many videos do you want? How much storage? Will you have access to WiFi?

USB hub - because I think my current hub is dying and I want something better, and because everyone needs a hub these days!

The Bounty Hunter Code Because we both need to learn more about being a good Bounty Hunter!

New Apple-approved cables because the cheap ones keep dying and the Apple ones are expensive.

Bag of Holding Because we both need to carry around a lot of stuff and look cool while doing it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG

Benson approved, very well priced - works great on my 6P.

I don't see any problem for 5 years, unless there's a suddenly change in technology or trend. The progress of computer innovation has been slowing down lately.

It's highly unlikely that 8K video will become mainstream in 5 years. The 2018 MBA can handle 4K editing. Export time is definitely longer than a 2018 MacBook Pro, but honestly, I never just sit and wait for export, I use the time to go do something else.

Intel won't mass release any 10nm chipset until late 2019, and who knows if there'll be more delay. Even then, it will take another year or two to mature. There has been speculation that Apple may make Macbook with their own CPU. Even if that happens in a year or two, it will also take another year or two for software to maturely make the switch. Also, wifi6 is on the horizon, but ac isn't going away.

The USB-C ports on the MBA are also Thunderbolt 3 ports. When you need more performance out from the machine, you can always plug in a eGPU.

BTW, for moving onto USB-C, I bought a few USB-C to USB 3.0 adapters and just leave it attached to my devices and cables which I use the most.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Transfer-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B078NKPGW9/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549487928&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+adapter+anker

You'll still need valid adb drivers. Step 3.


Also, the included cable works great with usb-c; this adapter works great with regular usb.

I've used an audioquest dragonfly with my mate 20 Pro with great success. You'll just need a USB-C adapter. I use the Anker USB-C OTG cable. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook-black/dp/B01COOQIKU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

I used:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and have had great success.

From reading up on other posts, It looks like the amazon basics 6' USB extension cable works best. some have had luck with 10' cables, but some report issues. If you want to go further, you need to get an active connector which are much more expensive. Also, USB needs to be 3.0 and SuperSpeed. The thicker the better for shielding IMHO. The HDMI extension just needs to be rated HDMI 2.0 or higher. I don't think it's as big of a pain as the USB

Here's what I got, arrives Thursday

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4

The thing I would think of here is that the USB A to C cable you have is only meant for the USB A to be host (Computer) and USB C to be client (Phone) for transferring data between computer and phone or etc. and does not have the correct wiring to have USB C be the host and the linkbox to be client.

The way this works is there is a resistor placed the CC pin/wire on the USB-C connector and ground, essentially creating a tiny short, that tells whatever the USB-C is connected to, "Hey, you're the host of this connection". Since this cable is probably meant to charge phones etc. it does not have that resistor/short built in. That connection is what causes the usb-C side device to go ahead and power the +5v connection TO the other end of the cable, in this case, the USB-A (USB 3) end of the cable. Therefore, your linkbox, and in turn, Vive, is not currently getting any power via USB - which, yes, the Vive does have it's own power cable, but it surely also uses the USB 5v for some specific stuff on the Vive.

Getting a USB-C OTG adapter should solve your problems, you would use this and then plug the HTC Vive's original USB cable, coming out of the link box, in to this. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511415846&sr=8-3&keywords=usb-c+otg

TL;DR Your cable is meant to charge phones/connect phones to PC, whatever is on the USB-C side is the "Accessory". Since you are using the USB-C plug on the PC side, the Vive is the "Host" and the PC is the "Accessory". USB cables only go "one way", in a sense. Getting a USB-C OTG adapter SHOULD work, but don't blame me if this doesn't work!

I bought this specific ethernet adapter and this USB-C cable and it works great for me if that helps. I couldn't figure out why I was so much better at Splatoon 2 on handheld but terrible docked, so I bought the ethernet adapter to get the best connection in the meantime since I was playing more docked. Turns out it was ultimately TV input lag. New TV fixed that and I don't use the ethernet adapter often now, but it's nice to have an extra for the PC.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017TJN22C/

For HDMI I have one of these and it's great: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK

For USB 3, I already owned a hub/ethernet dongle combo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00PC0J1VC

To make it work with USB-C I bought a USB A -> USB C converter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01COOQIKU

All of these work fine and are considerably cheaper than the Apple alternatives. Anker seem to be a good company when it comes to dongles.

If anyone needs a smaller run- I successfully extended my setup 6 feet using cheap cables off Amazon.

These are the exact cables I’m using:


Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable) in Black 6 Feet for Oculus Rift, HTC Vive, Playstation VR Headset and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fRCRDbCTBPZSF

Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1G74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oSCRDbD0YGAVG

For reference: AORUS RTX 2080 Waterforce

Going direct into the MOBO for the USB extender.

I have been running it this was for close to a month and have logged probably a day worth of playtime. I have not noticed any blips/artifacts or any visual/lag issues. It’s like the cables aren’t even there.

Correct, that dongle is for the Chromebook Pixel. Almost no Android phone these days contains the chip needed for HDMI output natively. The solution I use that is very reliable in most situations is an adapter that uses the DisplayLink protocol.

I use this adapter or the 2K version: https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA2XB38Z2801
It's also on Amazon, I just found this link first.
You'll also need a USB 3.0 capable USB-C OTG adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_T.Pxyb7RV5ABE

And lastly, install the DisplayLink Presenter app on your device. Once set up it will output the full display at all times (though media apps like Netflix and Hulu generally don't work).

Well of course not! :-)

I was just trying to point out that the concept already exists.


So with an alternate adaptor like this one and ear buds like these (all though these look like crap) you could do what this crowd funded thing is trying to do now.

A few other things:

As others have mentioned, the Odyssey's tracking relies on the room having enough light for the cameras to see.

While the Vive works great in total darkness, you have to remember to turn on the lights at night to make the Odyssey track.

And one other thing I should mention is that the cable is a bit short on the Odyssey, I had to buy some extension cables from Amazon to be comfortable I wouldn't accidentally yank out or break the connectors.

I went with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

On mobile so I'll link them here:

hub is StarTechDotCom

coupler is Riipoo

cable is CableMatters

Was putting my faith in the descriptions that they were really rated at 10Gbps since the hub and coupler basically no-name brands but I am thoroughly enjoying it.

Also check out the Techmatte mini to C adapters on amazon. They are tiny and just slip onto your normal chargers you're used to. They won't charge any faster or anything, but they are Benson approved and they are pretty grippy when they go on, so you shouldn't have to worry about it popping off.

Charged mine last night with an older blackberry blade AC charger and the adapter on it. Worked just fine, no heat up or anything.

here's a link

I've been thinking about doing something like this.

As for the HDMI/USB extension, I have an Odyssey and have been using the 6 foot versions of these things with pretty great results so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, I've heard that going longer than something like 10 feet requires an active cable, but I don't know the specifics of it.

I guess so, sure; it just seems like it'd give you more variety in gameplay in the future.

If you ever want to try it out, I personally just ordered this extension cable after numerous recommendations from the /r/oculus community for like $18 CAD. :)

Unfortunately true.

I had good results with Choetech USB C to C as well as iOrange C to C cables, but Cable Matters C to C cables didn't work properly (although their C to A cables are fine)

With the Cable Matters one, even though phone was showing fast charging, it actually was below 2 amps, whereas with the other two I can easily get to 2.8 amps according to Ampere.

So the ones that worked fine for me are:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0188IB9IC

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017W2RWEK

A little late on this, but with all the unhelpful comments i think I can add something.
Are you using a USB extension for your headset? Because what you're experiencing is the USB disconnecting. NOT an HDMI issue. The reason you still hear audio is because your HDMI works fine. The screen blacks out because it loses power. The app (and steam) automatically shuts off when you unplug the headset sometimes. It restarts itself because it senses the USB again.


The USB is probably losing connection due to either a power surge or power inefficiency. I would check the headset itself to make sure the cable is plugged in snugly to the slot.


If you're not using an extension, try putting your headset USB on the PCI USB 3.0.
Some motherboards can start having issues with USB not reading correctly. Happened to one of my other towers.


If you are using an extension, buy this one instead. It's the most consistent for everyone that's tried it, including myself.

Lastly, you could try a complete fresh install of windows. Make sure your windows drivers are totally up to date, and that the MOBO USB's aren't losing connection (you can look in the logs for specific USB slots under device manager to see if they have problems)


Hope this helps!


EDIT: someone said something about USB selective suspend, that is definitely something you should turn off. Go to power options>advanced settings>USB and turn selective suspend off

This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.

But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Depending upon your computer placement you may not need any.

The 2 front sensors that I have plugged into USB3.0 only need to be 6 to 8 feet apart, slightly more if you want to push the limits. If you need an extension for one of them you should use a 3.0. My computer is off to the side so I used a 10 foot extender by Cable Matters for the far front sensor.

I have seen people mention they used all 2.0 with good results though. Since you ordered 2.0 already you might as well give them a try.

The rear corner sensor has a USB 2.0 /16 feet extension cable included so it was able to be routed outside the perimeter my play space to where I needed it.

USB can potentially have an issue too. For instance I loose the camera when using this cable with my motherboard USB, but the same cable works fine when using my PCIe USB card.

As for DP, I've ordered this cable which someone else mentioned having success with, but it will apparently take at least a week before it shows up.

Basically every Android device made in the past 6 years supports this functionality. It is called "USB On-The-Go". You simply need a readily available adapter to change whatever charging port your phone has into a female USB Type A port.

Android itself has always natively supported USB devices such as keyboards, mice, USB storage devices (flash drives, DVD drives), USB audio devices, etc.. You can even plug in a USB hub and connect multiple devices at once; using your phone/tablet as a quasi-desktop computer if you wanted.

​

If your phone has Type-C: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+otg&qid=1558373604&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

If your Phone as Micro-B: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Samsung-Controller-Android/dp/B00N9S9Z0G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+micro+otg&qid=1558373637&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

They even make ones that allow you to keep charging your phone while having a device plugged into it: https://www.amazon.com/AuviPal-Micro-USB-Cable-Power/dp/B07FY9Z9GD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+micro+otg&qid=1558373675&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

I I just discovered they even make USB OTG hubs! https://www.amazon.com/Rocketek-Adapter-MacBook-Smartphones-Function/dp/B07MJ61TJV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+otg+hub&qid=1558374272&s=gateway&sr=8-3

'Best' probably involves a fancy RasberryPi setup, but I have found a process that works pretty well for me (based on advice posted here). I got a USB-A to USB-C adapter that goes directly into my phone. I have 'TeslaCam Viewer' on my phone and when I see that there are sentry events I review (and delete) them directly on my phone. That way clips don't pile up and if somebody hit the car I can potentially deal with it while they're still there.

Something like this should work:
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Adapter-SuperSpeed-MacBook-Samsung/dp/B00W98IJ0O#customerReviews

Keep in mind that space WILL be an issue on a laptop. You may not be able to fit two adapters next to each other, so you might be better off with a short extension adapter that has a smaller plug.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=psdc_3015402011_t2_B00W98IJ0O

The one I use is this. Everything works fine but yes I haven’t tested if charging is slower or not. It may be, but gets the job done for me.

I tested this with my PC and only one of the splits is able to do data/power for sure.

This one has been tested by a Google engineer. Great reviews. USB-C to Micro USB Adapter, TechMatte USB Type C to Micro USB Convert Connector for OnePlus 2, Nexus 5X 2015, Nexus 6P; Upgraded and Approved to Meet USB-C Standard (2-Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_0R5AwbVEV7PYX

Man, you have no idea how well it gets rid of that line of sight issue. I can lay prone and shoot! People were getting mad at me in multiplayer for it, lol.

It's super easy and will only cost you $40~ - here's what I used with mine:

• Mounts (2 pack)
  
• Cable Hooks
  
• 10 Foot USB 3.0 Extension
  
  The sensor cords are only 8 feet, so chances are you'll need to extend both. Use USB 3.0 for the first 2 sensors, and USB 2.0 if you get a 3rd.

Yes, plug in an adapter like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYYT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and route it under the Vive cable through the channel in the bottom, like this

https://ibb.co/epuHmn

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZY20OS/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1450379263&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=pill+keychain

And

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450379328&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=techmatte+usb+c&dpPl=1&dpID=41TvPsO6cFL&ref=plSrch

Sorry to get your hopes up for a single solution. There's room in the capsule for the adapter and a folded up $20 bill. American, don't know if other monies will fit.

So, something like this I believe you mean:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU

Geez I'm getting old, I should have just realized that's what I need to get, DOH!!!

Thanks for the response...

Amazon is probably your best bet. Or like, any electronics store. The only issue you'll have is if the minivan uses more power than the mini can provide, doubt that's the case though. I think people are tending towards c because it's the new standard (and reversible). Even with led I don't think a 40% could get near max draw on a standard usb 2.

Edit random link, there's loads. The internet is wonderful.

Edit edit, as below I was wrong, micro not mini...

I've been having success with:

• 10-ft HDMI extension (Monoprice Active Select RedMere): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/
  
• HDMI repeater (Shenfan 4K2K Repeater): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M02Z4FU
  
• 10-ft USB3 extension (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

This HDMI extension is the one officially recommended for the headset by the Oculus wiki. Note that it says 6ft extension max, not sure if any length beyond that will work or not.

Be sure to buy a matching length USB 3.0 if you extend the headset HDMI. Apparently the one I added to my wish list on amazon has disappeared and I cannot figure out how the heck to find the oculus wiki page with extension suggestions, so that's frustrating me right now. lol

EDIT: Found it, this is the USB 3.0 6ft extension to match the 6ft HDMI extension: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3MBEYWUWT48H&colid=1YO6HWUKO56VO

If you're using a controller with a standard USB plug (USB-A),which most USB controllers are, you'll need an adapter that's USB-A to USB-C adapter. The Switch Pro Controller for example uses a USB-C cable to connect as a wired controller, so you can use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect it to the Switch in tabletop mode.

Edit: I'd actually be interested to see if something like this would work for using multiple USB wire controllers in table top mode.

These should be everything you need and I've tested them with just the Oculus and they work perfectly:

• HDMI http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• USB http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  You could get a 2-pack of the USB extender which may work with the camera as well.

I have a OnePlus X that still works great. I think the galaxy S6 and S7 both use micro USB as well.

[or you could keep one of these with you] (https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG)

I could be wrong but I think you can use it as a regular USB port too. It's just if you want to push video through it then that video is tied to your iGPU. For you case, it's just another, hopefully separate, USB bus to try. Not that you need to try it but something like this would give you one last option:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

I was super pissed when I found out Apple's adapter didn't do DP.

There's a bunch of adapters when I search on Amazon. Here's one:

>USB Type C Adapter,ITANDA USB C Type to Mini DisplayPort/Mini DP Adapter Cable With Aluminium Case Support 4K resolution for Apple New Macbook 2016, ChromeBook Pixel - Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2ORP84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pImQybS9A09QZ

edit: use that with a regular thunderbolt cable (or a displayPort cable), and you should be good to go.

Dude I saw that, I'd love to try that. So is this everything I need?
https://www.rcplanet.com/fat-shark-rc-universal-av-cable-with-90-prong-fsv2003_p/fsv2003.htm

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017TJN22C?ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00&redirect=true&psc=1&tag=viglink20264-20&pldnSite=1

Plus the app?

I got these two from Amazon and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have to buy a new controller, at that rate you're better off with any number of the available bluetooth controllers that work without issue. Don't need to specifically get a Sony one unless that's what you're going for.

I'm with /u/rube though, you're not likely to find a C-to-mini ITG cable. Though you might find a C-to-A cable and just plug in a standard mini cable to it. Something like this one or this one.

I have the same issue, just got a new iMac and was hoping to use my old display as a second monitor but the adapter I bought doesn't work (and in fact the Amazon listing was updated after I bought it to note that it won't work with 2017 Macs and they're working on a new one). Not that that's particularly helpful, but at least you know it's not just you.

Only 2 reviews with the only verified one with wonky english? Pass.

You want a adapter that wont fry your phone? Stick to the stuff Benson has approved of like this one for $6.99 https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Resistor-ChromeBook/dp/B01AHKYIRS

Or this one for $1 less than the Anker : https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

In a forum post on Oculus quite some time ago cyber recommended the following pair which are in use at Oculus:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can confirm they work for me for a 10' extension on the HMD. As a bonus there is now a break away for the cables that is not my motherboard!

I just noticed that the item in the link has a male end and my Apple Thunderbolt 3–>2 adaptor is male as well. Do you think any female-to-female USB-C adaptor could break the thunderbolt compatibility? Could that throughput that I need cancel out getting the right connector? Lol

Would a product like this totally break the Thunderbolt compatibility I am looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/USB-Type-Adapter-Extension-Connector-x/dp/B071WW2K47

If your pc does not have a USB-C port. You are going to need a USB-C to USB.

Maybe a product like this would help?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075LHXVNV/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1523302629&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+c+to+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=410C18L4ixL&ref=plSrch

Hope this helps. It seems to me that you don’t know much with tech?

I bought a USB-C to USB 3.1 adapter, it works perfectly. I think it was $6 on amazon.


This is it - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3PS19SDCM55G6&keywords=usb-c+to+usb+adapter&qid=1550622323&s=gateway&sprefix=usb-c+to&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...

HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG

USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS

DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB

1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX

Thank you!

Yes all devices were recognized as 3.0. Here are the extensions:

USB

HDMI

Yeah, I used my same cable with a micro<->C converter and it works fine. Running Waze and Pocketcasts it kept the phone at 100% during a 8 hour drive recently.

(edit: these are what I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG. Note that the wall wart with this WILL NOT charge the phone at "quick charging" speeds, but for my use they work fine overnight as well as the car.)

Ah - OK, so I'm assuming you have an A device (with a B socket or a captive / fixed USB plug) as the DAC?

 

If your device just has a USB plug, then you need either one of those all in one PD hubs with at least one A socket, or the two headed dongle linked by the other user + a C to A adapter.

 

If your device has a USB-B socket at the device end, you can get C to B cables, so the mini PD hub linked by the other guy + cable should get you C PD + B connectivity.

e.g. if you have a USB2.0 DAC, then you'll need a C to 2.0 B cable.

If it's a USB3.0 device, then you'll need a C to 3.0 B cable.

Those are just examples - I don't have any of those cables, and you will need to be careful - especially with the 2.0 B cables, make sure they have the resistor as a minimum and look at reviews.

Got the below ones from amazon. They work great and are spec compliant

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this exact setup. Anker USB-C OTG cable and Anker USB 3.0 SD/microSD Card Reader. I use this to copy photos from my SD card of my Nikon D5500 to my LG G6. There are some cheaper options on Amazon but I usually trust Anker or Aukey as they haven't caused me any issues (so far).

Amazon Basics
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_doYzCb04S3B5Y

Inexpensive and great item so far.

I've read that certain motherboards work better than others for extensions without power. That being said, my Odyssey+ with an Asus H170 motherboard has worked fine with this 6ft HDMI extension and this 6ft USB extension.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

For the time being, I've ended up plugging all of my sensors and Rift into the motherboard, and my keyboard and mouse are in the Inateck card for the time being. For two of the sensors, one of them is going through this extension cable, and the other one is going through the included 2.0 cable that comes with the standalone sensor, while the third one is connected directly to the motherboard.

I did indeed run the Fresco registry tweaks and power management settings in OTT, and it always runs as admin when I start it up. Hopefully we'll be able to get this sorted out properly, as you said :)

This is a video i made earlier showing off what happens with two of the sensors plugged into the motherboard, and one into the Inateck card along with my Rift.

I, too, think waiting is a good idea. Amazon does have this one, but I'm still going to wait for more choices. My plan is to use the ones I have, and not expect full quick charging, but use the included charger when I really need quick charging. Most of the ones I have now are capable of charging tablets at 2+ amps, so may be reasonable if they work. I'm waiting on some of these at 2 for 9.99 so I can try out my USB A chargers to see how they work.

There are controllers that can plug in to the switch. You will probably need to get a usbc to usbc cable or usbc to microusb depending on the controller. I'm currently using a usbc to usbc for the 8bitdo snes grip controller. There is also the GameCube adapter that connects wired GameCube controllers. Lots of options more just up for preference. Is there a specific controller style you want. Like analog placements ECT?

Also if you already have a USB 2.0/3.0 you could get an adapter like this.

If you have any old micro USB cables around, go to Amazon and order this:
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

They are tiny and turn commonly available cables into ones that can charge your 5X -- not at the very highest rate but still totally usable.

Good to have, since USB-C is still not very common in many places.

Actually, I would feel more comfortable recommending something like this with an external power source. Only because we don't know what the OR's demand will be (atleast I do not).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/EasyAcc%C2%AE-bus-powered-self-powered-Ultrabooks-Microsoft/dp/B00ID270ZU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1452086495&sr=8-5&keywords=powered+usb+3+0+hub

So I ordered these two cables:

HDMI
and
USB

Turns out the 10 foot USB does not work on the Samsung Odyssey for me. I tried it in several USB ports and I keep getting the message to connect my headset. I tried it with a simple USB key and that worked.

Returning the 10 foot USB and getting the 6 foot instead.

The HDMI works perfectly.

For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.

I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.

It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.

6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an eVGA 980 and these 2 HDMI+USB extensions worked fine for me with the headset:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  From what I've seen in the past is that mobos and graphics cards can play a role in compatibility. I think newer cards/mobos will probably have less of a problem. I'm guessing many older hardware did not always adhere to some of the strict standards of USB/HDMI and it usually didn't matter much before with most hardware. But with the bandwidth that the rift+cameras use those standards are really important now and I think hardware vendors are now thoroughly testing and validating these in newer products. That's just my guess anyways.
  
  Edit: for reference my mobo is an Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX

I have a similar hub and it works so I don't see why this wouldn't.

Edit: I don't think HDMI out through USB-C is supported so you'd be better off saving your $ and get this Anker (or similar) USB-C OTG adapter with a USB 2.0 hub (the USB ports on these phones are only USB 2.0)

Awesome, will this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1

Won't be able to verify until v9 goes out the door and we know for sure. I am hoping the USB splitter will have enough juice to power both sufficiently, and if not will have to just wire up a 12v USB charger that I already have up to the front center console from the rear.

Walls

• 2x Monster LED Strip https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  
• 2x(Pack) Art3d Wall Panels https://www.amazon.com/Art3d-Textures-Panels-Diamond-Design/dp/B073NZ67LK
  
  
• Scotch Mounting Tape https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Outdoor-Mounting-60-inches-411P/dp/B0083K36KA
  
  
• 3 Light Floor Lamp https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-64-Track-Tree-Floor-Lamp-Black/12173440
  
  
• 3x Monster RGB Bulbs https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  Room
  
  
• Fluance Ai60 Speakers - White Walnut https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-*Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• Kanto Speaker Stands 26" https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-SP26PLW-Bookshelf-Speaker-Stands/dp/B07K4XHRYM
  
  
• noblechairs ICON Chair - Blue/Graphite Real Leather https://www.amazon.com/noblechairs-ICON-Gaming-Chair-*Midnight/dp/B072JKB516
  
  
• Basenji/Boston Terrier Dog
  
  
• Sherpa Dog Cuddle Throw https://www.amazon.com/Life-Comfort-Microfiber-Polyester-Ultimate/dp/B01JNMI5BQ
  
  
• Call It Spring 10.5 Brisbourne https://www.callitspring.com/us/en_US/men/footwear/casual-shoes/Brisbourne/p/11152086
  
  
• Sandles - Generic (Circa 2011)
  
  
• New Balance 10.5 (Circa 2009)
  
  
• Uni USB C SD/MicroSD Card Reader https://www.amazon.com/MicroSD-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07DJT5GPT
  
  Desk (Left)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• XXL Mouse Mat - Map https://www.amazon.com/Cmhoo-Professional-Large-Computer-35-4x15-7x0-1IN/dp/B01F0XHA5E
  
  
• $150.00 US Cash
  
  
• Dell 24" Touch Screen https://www.amazon.com/Dell-P2418HT-23-8-Touch-Monitor/dp/B01NBX1Q2T
  
  
• Dell Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Business-Multimedia-Keyboard-KB522/dp/B00CBDEEG0
  
  
• Dell Mouse https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-MS111-P-Optical-BUTTON-Original/dp/B014LDW8BK*
  
  Desk (Center)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 60x30 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA216030MY-Valencia-2-Inch-Mahogany/dp/B00272N3DK
  
  
• 2x Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2 https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26
  
  
• 2x Raspberry Pi 3B https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-MS-004-00000024-Model-Board/dp/B01LPLPBS8
  
  
• Raspberry Pi 4 2GB https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-4-2gb.html
  
  
• 1x(Pack) SanDisk 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-MicroSD-Ultra-UHS-1-Memory/dp/B00CNYV942
  
  
• Samsung PRO 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B98GXQT/ref=twister_B07DLWKFTM
  
  
• Mercedes Petronas Lanyard https://f1store.formula1.com/stores/f1/en/product/mercedes-amg-petronas-lanyard/224526
  
  
• 2x Pixio 27" 95Hz IPS HDR https://www.amazon.com/Display-FreeSync-Certified-Productivity-Warranty/dp/B07PZX54QC
  
  
• Viotek 49" 144Hz VA HDR https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• 3x DisplayPort Cable - 6ft https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Capshi-Braided-Laptop-Monitor/dp/B07GDBXWCQ
  
  
• Cable Matters DisplayPort Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1G74
  
  
• Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7S1B4W
  
  
• 2x VIVO Gas Spring Monitor Arm https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Adjustable-Articulating-Counterbalance-STAND-*V001O/dp/B01NH0HTM5
  
  
• VIVO TV Desk Stand https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Universal-Screen-Table-STAND-TV00K/dp/B01CQ0E01Q
  
  
• ASUS ROG Mouse Mat XL https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Sheath-Gaming-Mouse-Pad/dp/B01G5ATZAE
  
  
• ROG Claymore Core Keyboard - Cherry MX Brown https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Claymore-Core-Cherry-Red/dp/B01NGTJBUA
  
  
• ROG Gladius II 12000 DPI Mouse https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Gladius-II-Origin-Acceleration/dp/B078YBG1VZ
  
  
• 2x Samsung Galaxy Tab E 9.6" https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Black-Wi-Fi-SM-T560NZKUXAC/dp/B0161UWH76
  
  
• 2x Walmart ONN 10" Tablet https://www.walmart.com/ip/Onn-10-1-16-GB-Android-Tablet-Bonus-20-off-Walmart-eBooks-Included/258891221
  
  
• 2x KABCON Tablet Stand https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Angle-Adjustable-Aluminum-Microsoft-Countertop/dp/B074J159V5
  
  
• 2x SmartStand Mobile Device Holder https://www.amazon.com/SmartStand-Mobile-Device-Holder-Phones/dp/B0036WTD5C
  
  
• Xbox Wireless Controller - Recon Tech Special Edition https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Special-Discontinued/dp/B06XT99YW5
  
  
• REMOTE (Yamaha Soundbar) https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YAS-107BL-Built-Subwoofers-Bluetooth/dp/B071ZN5PSS
  
  
• REMOTE (Fluance Speakers) https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• REMOTE (Roku Streaming Stick+) https://www.amazon.com/Roku-Streaming-Stick-HDR-Streaming-Long-range/dp/B075XLWML4
  
  
• REMOTE (Viotek 49" Monitor) https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• REMOTE (Samsung 42" 4k HDR TV) https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-43-class-led-nu6900-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/6268402.p?skuId=6268402
  
  
• Fostex TH-X00 Ebony Headphones https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-fostex-tr-x00-ebony-headphones
  
  
• Gator Weighted Microphone Stand https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Frameworks-Weighted-Microphone-Dimensions/dp/B00BPELU68
  
  
• Blue Yeti Nano Microphone https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-Premium-Recording-Streaming/dp/B07DTTGZ7M
  
  Desk (Right)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• MSI GS65 STEALTH-006 Gaming Laptop https://www.bestbuy.com/site/msi-15-6-gaming-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-512gb-solid-state-drive-matte-black-with-gold-diamond-cut/6321439.p?skuId=6321439
  
  Computer
  
  
• AMD - Threadripper 1950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor
  
  
• AMD - RX5700 XT 50th Anniversary Edition
  
  
• NVIDIA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Founders Edition
  
  
• Corsair - H115i PRO 55.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
  
  
• Asus - ROG ZENITH EXTREME EATX TR4 Motherboard
  
  
• 2x G.Skill - TridentZ RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
  
  
• Intel - Optane 900P 480 GB PCI-E Solid State Drive
  
  
• Western Digital - SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
  
  
• Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV TG ATX Tower Anthracite Gray
  
  
• Corsair - HX Platinum 1200 W 80+ Platinum
  
  
• Red Sleeve Extension Power Supply Cable Kit https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Sleeve-Extension-Extra-Sleeved-PIN-Red/dp/B0719Q59YC
  
  
• (Software) Windows 10 LTSC
  
  
• (Software) GameGlass

OK so I heard the Quest has a cable that is USB-C male on both ends.


Which means to plug it into a PC you need a USB-C female to USB 3.0 male.


Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079LYHNSR

I’m same issue here. I got this and it works great. Plug the charger into the power side. (You would need two if you want both sides of the mat to work... I’m assuming a software update will fix it so I only went with one.)

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZfvQCbQ4TFQBZ

The Samsung galaxy Tabpro S adapter has a HDMI port and connects PERFECTLY to the chromebook plus https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EE-PW700BWEGUJ-Tabpro-Multi-Port-Adapter/dp/B01DN09RYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496032746&sr=8-1&keywords=galaxy+tabpro+s+adapter

(Maybe it's your adapter not being truly compatible).... http://imgur.com/FWqxQZ9

I now have a Mayflash GC adapter. Works perfectly. If I were to use a USB Adapter like this one, which lets me use the Mayflash on handheld mode, will that brick my switch or cause any other problems?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=asc_df_B01GGKYYT0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11534603015747563071&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005488&hvtargid=aud-464976914866:pla-490647422152&psc=1


just get something like this, and keep it with your mouse, or like tape it onto your mouse cable

Had the same issue (though on level 30 >.<). Here's now I fixed it:

I purchased 10' extensions for the HDMI/USB/Audio cables and then (this is key) wrapped them in these.

A costly upgrade but I haven't had a single wire issue since. You still get wrapped up if you're not careful but it's easy enough between rounds to see which way you need to turn during the next round to undo it.

Here's my stream from last night when I got rank #3, you can see my wire setup and technique for monitoring it (skip around).

I’m using this on my HP headset and it works perfectly. Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_79NRAbYCMJXDN

Wait what? I meant the USB thingy that comes with the Cloud 2. If you need wireless though, just do a quick google search and you should find plenty of USB wireless audio adapters. If you need USB audio (or Gamecube controllers :P) in portable mode this should work. Sorry for the confusion. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ Be sure to test it in docked mode first to make sure it's compatible with the Switch. And still, it might not work properly in portable mode, but it should lol

I bought this one as he's reviewed iOrange-E well in the past. Proud to report it works with fast charge, is a dollar more, and twice the length.

Do you use something like this?

USB Type C Adapter,ITANDA USB C Type to Mini DisplayPort/Mini DP Adapter Cable With Aluminium Case Support 4K resolution for Apple New Macbook 2016, ChromeBook Pixel - Grey

I am using these with both my cameras and headset. Everything works great. (200008-BLACK-10)

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

Here's the items I purchased to extend the headset 10 feet.

Power cable- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ517VI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also went with a 1/2" braided sleeve to hold them all together. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Edit: Including like where I got my info originally. https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4eiqda/10ft_extension_cables_after_the_breakout_box/?sort=confidence

> https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR

Wow. The ol' double dongle? Headphones (USB-C male) -> Dongle (USB-C female—USB-A-male) -> Dongle (USB-A female—3.55mm male)?

Wanted to make a quick post - using the Anker recommended cable (3M).
I tried the AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable along with Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable - Both 3M - neither worked.


Finally, I tried CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT) - THIS WORKS, and it's way longer than the others.

I am using this HDMI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HIEtzb056BQ0Y

And this usb and it works great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DJEtzbMCAYRC0

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498758225&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+usb+3.0

I tossed this on both of my sensors and works great.

They make cheap adapters, they work great.

You have two options.

Micro USB to Type C adapter for use with any existing Micro USB cables you have such as the following:

TechMatte USB-C to Micro USB Adapter Convert Connector

Or purchase an actual certified USB Type C - Type A cable such as any in the following spreadsheet.

Certified Cables

I personally have the adapters above and cables from iOrange-E. They both work great. iOrange-E cables are a bit pricier than other brands though.

EDIT
Just found some deals while browsing other sites on actual cables

• Android Police - Choetech Deal Alert
  
• Android Police - iOrange-E Deal Alert

I bought this one a few weeks ago and it has been great. I use it to transfer between my Nexus 6p and Chromebook Flip

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_bQCrzb42838XM

Same, cost $5.99 on Amazon works great with the v9 DashCam and the Nomad.

Many laptops have a USB-C port that is capable of being used in displayport mode, and transmitting a displayport signal.

I have 2 Dell displayport monitors that I connect to my MacBook Pro using one of these cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/

There are also adapters like this for existing cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2ORP84/

Since what you're looking at is "thunderbolt 3 compatible", I believe that also means it'll work in displayport mode.

I used this USB to type C adapter connect it to the charging port of the switch and your all good to go!!it reads everything perfectly no lag.


Anker USB-C to USB 3.1 Adapter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you're printing the case yourself, it's perfect. I'd buy a small USB hub, and remove it's plastic housing.

You can plug the keyboard pcb into one of the USB ports on the hub. Plug the lights/whatever controller you need into another port, and then the cable where the hub would normally plug into the computer into a female-female that you mount in the case. Plug one of these into that, and you've got a USB c keyboard with lights.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those extensions are perfect on my setup, looking at my order I actually got the 10 feet cables.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

micro b to type c, and a micro b y cable?

i know type c will not let you do it natively, but that might. i have the one linked and it does work and is now benson approved affter they fixed it.

You don't have to spend $500 on optical cables like that guy.

I extended an extra 10ft (for 25ft total) after the breakout box by spending $27 shipped - and I have a spare HDMI extender left:

www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Extension-Foscam-Agasio-Wireless/dp/B00V5QY53Q

www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B008219UMI

www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI

I also recommend using a carabiner clip on your back belt loop to keep the cable away from your arms.

The HP-A4's RCA plugs are for sending music out to speakers, not for sending your music into the amp. For android phones, you'll need a USB-B 2.0 to USB-A cable and a USB-A to USB-C adapter assuming you're using a phone with USB-C like Samsung S8, or Note8, or a USB-A to Micro-USB adapter if you're using a older/cheaper android phone like Samsung S7, J3, etc.

USB-B to USB-A cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK

USB-A to USB-C Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

USB-A to Micro USB Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LN3LQKQ/

Dont do that one, its like a 1-inch extension cable.

Use something like this

> What works better, plugging in directly from camera to phone, or just the SD card in an adapter to phone?

I can't find a clear answer as to if Android will support PTP/MTP over USB-OTG. I know that connecting the SD card via an adapter will work, but I wouldn't be confident in saying connecting the camera directly would work.

> I'd rather not mess with the SD card coming in and out often if so, but, any suggestions?

I doubt that this would be the point of failure for your camera, but I certainly understand the concern.

> Will any mini-usb to USB-C cable work, then?

No, you specifically need an OTG cable as this has an extra pin that tells the phone to function as a master device. I would recommend picking up a standard USB-C to USB-A OTG Cable and then using a USB-A to Micro B cable from there if you wanted to try it.

Again, I think there's a good chance it won't work, but the USB-C OTG cable will work for you either way so you can try it with the camera and use an SD card adapter if it does not work.

Not sure about the webcam specs, check the app requirements. Or ask the lady to recommend something? You might need an adapter like this.

What does it mean to buy an ACTIVE USB extension? I was looking at this one, is this ok?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1

This is true. I bought the Rankie and USB 2.0 6ft and I'm having issues. Super disappointed

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KRLQG2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

You can use a usb splitter... super cheap

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JBujDbM8NJC3D

Literally any bluetooth mouse is fine or usb wire/less + USB C OTG wire (like this one). You can't charge the Tab while using a USB mouse unless you get another adapter so I'd probably recommend the bluetooth option unless you want to use it with more devices

The Audio Technica ATR2100 is the most recommended beginner mic you'll find around here. It has a USB connection and an XLR connection, so your buddy can continue to use it if he decides to upgrade to an audio interface later on. (I just ordered one with the intention of using both at the same time for Skype reasons). He'll need something like this to connect the mic's USB cable to his phone.

I just did a quick Google and it does appear people are using their ATR2100s with iPhones and iPads. I suggest your buddy look at YouTube videos about it before committing.

I just picked up a Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 pack the other day. This one is different than the Cable Matters cables that you tested. Wasn't terribly expensive either, I only paid $15 for 2 6-ft cables.

While I haven't tried plugging in the headset to the extension, it does work with the sensor just fine. I've been using my Rift since the cables arrived without any issues. I'll probably even use the second cable for the Touch sensor as well.

You can purchase a USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Female adapter. They're quite inexpensive on Amazon.

Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549344669&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+c+usb+adapter

I used something like this for a while but 2019.8.5 was giving me issues with drive corruption...

So I ended up using a 12V to 2 USB power adapter and some USB extension cables to run power to the center console storage area with a couple of 3/8 inch holes drilled to feed the USB cables under the center console.

Below are the cables I used, all worked flawless for me, however I bought the $80 5gbps USB hub card

approved 6ft usb extension

approved 6ft 4k HDMI

for sensor extensions

I did buy these two, but I haven't validated them yet. I hope to try them later tonight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D

Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z

HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black

I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.

Like this?

iXCC USB Type C to USB 3.0 Type A Adapter, Charge and Sync Cable, On The Go (OTG Host Cable) for Type-C Supported Devices (6 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TJN22C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5iEtybYM86TR3

Wait, what? Like this cable? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0

I'm not sure how you connect your Xbox controller to your phone. The Xbox One OG controller is wireless, so to make it wired, isn't the controller cable USB Micro B to USB A male? You connected that cable to the one in the Amazon link?