(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best computer networking hubs

If you have to use that device as if it's a soundcard device on the laptop, but wireless, the only way I can think of to do this is with some "network USB hub" gear. This will basically extend your usb cable over your LAN (wired or wifi) to allow your laptop to connect to your SE22 as if the USB cable was plugged into the laptop.

Unfortunately, these are hard to come by these days. Belkin made one that I had very good luck with back in like 2012 (used it for professional applications), but although they are still available on amazon, they are discontinued and YMMV getting it to work with Windows 10. There's also this one which I cannot vouch for and it's a bit expensive. Finally, there are software options which you may be able to wire up with another device of your own; perhaps like a raspberry pi or some such. It might be an adventure in learning!

All of these solutions will require a rock-solid fast wifi connection, probably won't handle any communication breaks well, and will introduce a bit of latency into the equation. If you're just trying to play music for listening, this shouldn't matter. But if you're trying to do sound editing or whatnot, it probably will matter. Again, YMMV.

EDIT: Another thought, if you just want to play music through your 8020's ...why do you even need to use the SE22 at all? Just get yourself like a Chromecast Audio (discontinued, yes, but easy to find) and get yourself one of these cables and plug the chromecast directly into your 8020's.

You will need to buy :

8-port Gigabit Ethernet Switch

An Ethernet patch panel

A punch down tool

A package of at least 6 1-foot Ethernet patch cables.

I am assuming your FIOS router is somewhere near the panel in the pics, because when you are done, you will need to run an Ethernet cable from the back of the FIOS router to your new 8-port Switch. The router doesn't have to be in the same room, but wherever it is, you do have to connect it via ethernet to the Switch.

Instructions :

1). The rooms all terminate into the left-hand panel, you can see the wires at the bottom in the pic. Each ethernet run will have 4 pairs of wires. Currently they are connected to the left-hand board, and then patched over to the right. Telephone wiring only requires a single pair for each line, currently you have 4 pairs to each room. What you need to do is first, buy a LAN line tester. Something like this :

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-TT64202-Cable-Tester/dp/B004Y75B5Y

You don't need to buy an expensive one, that is simply the first one which came up when I googled it. They are very easy to use, you just plug one half into a wall jack via the supplied 6-inch patch cable, and the other half into the matching port on your panel (left-side). Or you could disconnect the RJ45 connector from the matching right-side panel, and plug that directly into the tester. When you turn the tester on, it will tell you if the wires are correctly configured for Ethernet. It is almost certain they are not as telephone config is not the same as Ethernet config. If all 4 lights don't go green, that means you need an Ethernet patch panel. Likely only one light will turn on indicating only 1 pair was found (that's OK, read on...).

Here is what you are going to need to buy :

https://www.amazon.com/Steren-550-030-FastHome-Data-Hub/dp/B000EHW88Q/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=ethernet+patch+panel&qid=1573655221&s=electronics&sr=1-11

Again, doesn't have to be that one, but that is designed to provide RJ45 ports for Cat5e which is exactly what you have. Read the top comment on that page, someone named Daron Levy. That person did exactly what you need to do and even provided a shopping list of tools.

2). Remove the cover off of any Ethernet jack in your house, like the one in the first picture. Figure out which wiring config was used to attach the wires, either 568A or 568B. The back of those female ports all have a diagram showing the two possibilities, the only difference is the orange and green pairs are interchanged (brown and blue are the same in both A and B). You should be able to tell which was used by matching up the diagram on the port to the wires you can now see. Once you figure out which was used, use that everywhere.

3). It is not difficult, but what you need to do is detach each of the sets of wires from the phone board on the left hand side. That will give you 4 sets of wires per room. Using a punch-down tool, punch the wires into the new Ethernet patch panel using either 568A or 568B configuration, whichever one you figured out was used in step 2.

4). After the first room is punched into the new patch panel, test it with your tester. If you get all 4 green lights, you have successfully connected the line. You now have ethernet from your new patch panel to your room.

5). Plug a 1-foot ethernet patch cable into your newly working jack on the patch panel, and the other end into a 4 or 8-port switch. Then plug the Switch via Ethernet into your Fios router, and you should be golden. Repeat for each room.

​

​

Here are the details of your telephone patch board :

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47609-EMP-Telephone-Patching-Expansion/dp/B000U3BVNW

​

EDIT - One more thing to add. Do not assume you can reuse those patch cables I see in your picture, they are almost certainly telephone patch cables with RJ45 connectors. They look like Ethernet, but are not. Use your tester, take any one of them and plug it in between both sides of your tester, I am willing to bet that all 4 green lights will not light up. Instead you'll get at most 2 green lights indicating they are wired for phone connections, not for Ethernet.

Sorry for the late reply. Didn't use the laptop much during the weekend. Attached are the scaling images you requested. Not sure how much help it will be watching on a different monitor, but you be the judge of that.

Link to Scaling > Thinkpad X1E 4K Display Scaling in Windows 10 . As for Display panel, HWInfo doesn't show anything. I went to device manager and was able to get the Hardware Id for the display which happens to be "MONITOR\LEN4180". The display is truly gorgeous btw. :-) . From where I bought it, I had the option to have it calibrated at the factory. If you want the colour profile file, please let me know.

Here is how I'm setup for my work area > I have a HooToo USB C Hub that I use to connect to my 24inch 2560X1440 display. I power the HooToo hub with a 65W USB C Charger (one that came with my X1C) and when I connect the X1E, I get the "Slow USB Charger" warning. But it does charge the laptop, slowly rather, but I am not complaining. The hub provides PD up to 100W so I could technically use a higher powered USB C charger I suppose. It is not all seamless, like you have to power cycle the Hub after restart and such, but my expectation out of a sub $50 hub is rather low. So I'm fine.

Now onto the issue of scaling between monitors > Yes some of the apps get fuzzy when you move from one screen to another. But in my daily use case, around 95% of the apps I use, scale quite well. File Explorer, Visual Studio, OneNote, Browsers they all behave fine. Also, if you only use the external monitor when plugged in, then you eliminate all scaling issues. I always use both the laptop screen and the Monitor together while working, as I prefer the extra screen, and I can very much live with this minor scaling issue. I also heard a lot of noise about 2 monitors with different resolutions causing havoc in Windows, but personally, I don't get what the big fuss is about. I suppose Windows 10 fixed a lot of issues that existed in the past. To summarize, I am using an external monitor which has a different resolution from the 4K laptop screen and I have no complaints.

Regarding Noise > It has only been a couple of days and still windows is going through hoopla to install updates and what not, so from time to time fans do come on. Also, the fans are on when I'm like watching 4K YouTube or Netflix etc. But they are not like super loud (jet engine) and since I use headphones at least 90% of the time when watching movies/shows, it doesn't bother me as well. I rather like the fact that the fans keep the bottom of the laptop cool. X1E is lot more comfortable to keep on my lap than my X1C6. Also I hated the heat coming out on the right side on my X1C, no more of that annoyance. There is a faint "coil whine", but in order to hear it, even in a absolutely quiet room at night, I have to press my ear firmly on the keyboard. Only then I can hear some static noise. In other words, yes it is there, but doesn't bother me a bit. I guess these things are all subjective. For someone else, it might be a deal breaker. For me, I didn't even look for it, until I read about it in your question.

In my Limited use for last couple of days, I have not found any lag/latency when using the X1E, with or without the external monitor. Also on this regard, it is worth mentioning that I am only using stock 8GB at the moment, haven't upgraded the RAM or the SSD yet.

Now here comes the bad parts > First of all, the Network Card keep disconnecting and this problem is affecting me more than anything. Most of my work are Web/Internet based and I simply can't live with a scratchy connection. It has already happened, where it disconnected inside filling out an online form and I had to start over. Still scratching my head as to what I can do to make it go away. Remember I said that these "Issues" are subjective. Like the coil whine doesn't bother me at all, it is almost non existent for me, but this WiFi issue is a "Deal Breaker" for me. Unless I can fix it, I will have to send it back. >> This just happened after I finished the post and hit "Reply" only to notice that I was not online anymore. Sucks. <<

Second thing is the TrackPoint Mouse buttons, specially the Left and the Middle buttons are problematic. They don't register clicks unless you push hard. I am a heavy TrackPoint user and this I can't live with either. I have already filed a case with Lenovo and expect them to replace/fix it.

Ok rather a long post, and I had to write in a hurry, so if I missed any of your questions, please let me know. Hope my answers help you make the right decision. Cheers.

[Edit: Spelling, Grammar]

FAQ from previous post:

No input lag, everything is the same as when the desktops were on the desk.

I used 50ft hdmi cables running through conduit i installed in the walls for video, my older monitors required an hdmi booster: http://www.frys.com/product/6926477?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

I ran long usb active extension cables to each station and added a powered usb hub here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006KSLF6E/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JEOWV14/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the LED lights, make sure to buy double sided tape because the sticky backing is worthless on them, but still worth it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ASHQQKI/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Price breakdown, purchased most everything over the course of 5 years:

My battle station: 2500
My wifes: 1000
The server: 2000
The rack and accessories: 400
Cables, mounts, LED's, UPS's, etc: 1000
PVC: 100
The TV: 550
Soundbar: 100
My surround monitors: 250/ea
My ultrawide monitor: 450
My wifes monitors: 150/ea
Electrician: 150-200
HTPC's: 500 each
Switch: 100
Router: 100
HDHomeRun: 100ish
Dozens of hours to set it up: priceless

Here are the server cases i used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GCOY3M/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Everything is split across 3 810w UPS's, each is at about 25% load. I tested them recently and i can get around half an hour of backup power to all of the electronics in the house, included the TV's.

If you have any questions feel free to ask, it was an exceptionally fun project and the results were perfect. I was pleasantly surprised how well everything works after it all turned on the first time.

It’s a good idea. I think we will be able to get a list going once ipadOS is actually released. Right now, very few usb c hubs are designed specifically for the iPad Pro. Most of what see are either usb c adapters like the hyperdrive or usb c hubs for computers that happen to allow certain functions for iPad pros with the beta. The verge did an okay overview abt usb c hubs for iPad pros https://www.theverge.com/2019/8/2/20750137/apple-ipad-pro-usb-c-hubs-hyperdrive-belkin-satechi-kanex

My bet is that once the iPadOS is out, manufacturers will be incentivized to make usb c hubs that work well with iPad pros. Currently the only one that I found that works well is the hyperdrive usb c hub (not the adapter thing) because it is the only one that allows iPad to play via its speakers when the headphone jack does not have anything in it ( a common issue with other hubs). https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Adapter-MacBook-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B07S7LVDC9/

Definitely looking forward to a good list once more manufacturers jump on the iPad specific usb c hub train!

you will need an audio interface. something simple like a Scarlett 2i2 is what I would recommend (there are other / cheaper options out there though).

To connect to the subwoofer AND monitors to your audio interface you could use two of these. Then you would need two (2) TRS to RCA cables for the subwoofer and two (2) TRS to TRS cables for your studio monitors.

I would go ahead and pick up some sort of powered USB hub to connect all the usb cables to your macbook. Something like this is what I would recommend...

After that you should be good to go. Just need to go into your DAW and make sure it recognizes the audio interface, beat pad, and keyboard. If you don't have a DAW of some sort, you could try out some free trials of some popular ones (Logic, Ableton, etc.) and see what you like.

USB-C converters are a non issue because they are cheap and everywhere. I have like 5 in my bag of different types. You can get insanely good docks now for usb-c. I have a totu one that i liked so much i bought one for my bag solely.

https://www.amazon.com/TOTU-Ethernet-Delivery-Portable-Laptops/dp/B07FX2LW35

​

Ive had this forever and its perfect and the long cable is amazing

​

https://www.amazon.com/Asunflower-Serial-Console-Rollover-Routers/dp/B00KMRVGFO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+to+serial+cisco&qid=1554828013&s=electronics&sr=1-3

​

I have used a mac for almost 10 years solely. I would never go back. Another thing that is fantastic about macs is network locations which I use a ton for each site i visit or for new setups that I do.

Hey there,

I recently asked this question but it seemed that it was either too expensive or doesn't exist. I figured out another way, though, but I don't know if there is a cheaper version of this (https://www.amazon.com/iDsonix-Charging-Adapter-Protector-Chipset/dp/B00FDKAFAW) out on the internet. If you have one that's cheaper (min 7 ports, 1-2 2.4 amp charge ports) or know the amazon link of one, please send me it :)

And for personal reasons, Amazon Prime would be extremely helpful. :)

Powered USB splitters, yes.

I got this one and it works great.

There isnt any telling how well the dock would handle unpowered USB splitters as the controllers need a certain amount power to operate, and the USB ports already share a super small amount of power. About 1.8 amps between all three.

So with three devices youre down to just 5V @ .6 amps, and using a splitter would divide that even further.

A couple of ones that have served me well (and still are):

Plugable USB2 hub -- Works great, but flat layout means it takes a bit of space. Backfeeds power which sometimes blocks PCs from turning on. I use it for my audio stuff because USB3 is pretty overkill.

Sabrent USB3 hub -- More compact, USB3, has dedicated charging ports if you care about that.

I use Satechi.

You can get one Satechi USB C Hub that is a passthrough which has USB-C, two old USB, SD and MicroSD.

I use this Satechi USB C Hub - it doesn't have a power pass through/USB-C port, but does have an extra old USB port.

It works great, small size, and looks awesome with the MacBook Pro.

Thanks for your response. Just to clarify here - when you say powered usb hub. It would need to be one like I posted in the link, right? So e.g. something like this would potentially use too much power and cause overheating (or supply too little and the peripheries do not work ok)?

Would a product like this be preferable to one like this?

What's the best course of action then? Send the HDD back and get one with a lower power draw (is that even possible?) OR buy a powered USB hub (would this work? or this?).

Baring in mind I want to keep the Pi on all the time, so I want to keep its energy usage down to a minimum.

Update: I just read here that you can use the hub to power the Raspberry Pi as well (cutting out the need for a power cable), so that seems like a good option.

For charging, it really doesn't matter what you use as long as each port can provide 5v 800mA. The USB hubs that only provide the standard 500mA for USB will work too, but your phones may exceed the operating specification of the hub if they don't start 100% charged.

My short list when getting a USB hub was:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYXZI4M

http://www.amazon.com/Family-Sized-Desktop-Charger-PowerIQTM-Technology/dp/B00GTGETFG

http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-10-Port-High-Speed-RHB-500/dp/B004F38WT4

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4

Based on reviews and forum posts around the web, they all provide the necessary current for 5 devices being charged at once. They're all good enough to power a Raspberry Pi model B, so they're all good enough for some pretty demanding USB load with stable power.

So here's an update.
I first want to thank you for responding and offering your input!

I also want you to know that although I had asked for model specific info I decided to go a different route.

1. I went with this for my power supply:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SQPS7N2/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00
   Got it for $15 USD with a coupon and an additional percentage off.
   I figured with the same 30W PD and additional 18W QC ports it was a deal.
   
   
2. I found this hub:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M6R3CPB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
   With another coupon it came to $30 USD, another good deal.
   I knew I wasn't getting all the ports some of the other hubs offered, but hey...a good price for something labeled "2019 Update" (maybe upgraded chipsets?) and the power delivery looked good-to-go!
   Found it cheaper on Ebay, but buying through them I consider a crap shoot...there are way too many con artists set up there these days, you never know WHAT you'll get.
   At least I have guaranteed return options with Amazon.
   
   
3. I just tested it with that Seagate Slim :
   https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16822178436?item=9SIA9K89UG1149
   This I picked up for $20 USD (still in box with protective wrapping) at a local Goodwill store.
   
   
4. I also years ago had purchased the USB Media Explorer:
   
   https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.homeysoft.nexususb.importer
   
   to use with one of my first tablets, the old Nexus 10...which still works albeit only with external power (the battery is shot)!
   
   Everything works...it just works.
   
   I can now pack the Seagate and run it as long as I want without draining the internal battery and by doing so I hope prolong the life of the Tab S4.
   
   
   Again, thanks!

DAS is Direct Attached Storage, so you'll need a pcie card on your main PC so it can connect to. There are DAS via USB, but I wouldn't advise that. I haven't tested a Type C connector DAS, but it might be ok. This USB hub would be your cheapest setup improvement. The next level up would be to buy new, buy used, or build your own NAS. If you buy used or build your own then you'll have to spend time to learn an OS to setup a network share so you can access it via ethernet cable. You could spend more to get a closer to a turnkey solution, but the price goes up fast if you need a lot of storage with this solution.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJXW/

Here is a slightly more expensive Mediasonic but you get a Type C connector.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078YQHWYW/

Our favorite, and 2nd favorite. Both work in the Vive headset nicely:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PHPWLPA/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UMVFJW6/

For Trackers, we're using Gopro mounts with 1/4in adapters, and just 1/4 bolts drilled into money clips. This one is versitile: feet, wrists, or back of hand is quick:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NNGCBNC/

I prefer a lego case, because it's easy to add more modules for a USB hub and stuff. But this kit looks pretty awesome! If you want a usb hub, this is what I got. It powers the Pi and adds 3 more usb ports!

Wow, a person in the comments seems to imply it works for him. Even with an external hard driver provided he plugs it in after the odroid boots.

Since I'm going to be running these as headless servers maybe I'll snag one and see how it goes. Thanks for the link!


EDIT: This seems like a better option. And someone in the Q&A confirms it works with an XU4. It's a little expensive though. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH8QSOY/

So I bought these instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DV1XKZ4

With the raspberry pi you really have to be careful with USB 3 hubs, most of them don't work... especially the ones that are popular for bitcoin mining.

You'll see the anker 10 port ones all over the place (and some other ones that are exactly the same). Those don't work with the RPi!

Stick to well powered USB 2 hubs. Here are a couple that I own and think are the best for the RPi:

up to 7 miners ($25): http://amzn.com/B004F38WT4

up to 20 miners ($75): http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/270316963.html (Do NOT buy from "Mandela kore" he is a fraudster, I tried to buy one from him since he's the cheapest. Only buy from "SSGI" or "Hariyanto" -- I've bought a bunch from him and he's legit. He's very friendly if you want to open a chat if you have special requests... he found some other cool shit for me in a local market in china. Shipping takes about a week to the US if you get DHL)

I use the adapter, it's pricey but does the job well. No complaints from me. I explored other options like the Satechi adapter, which I also own. It's generally been a disappointing product. I feel it would have been trivial for them to include USB C for charging pass-through, and it has random disconnects. Satechi has promised me a replacement but that only solves the disconnect issue and not the missing charging port.

Edit: the Satechi hub doesn't have HDMI, I forgot about that.

Edit 2:
Good news. Satechi has updated their adapter to include USB C now. I'll have to purchase the updated one to see if it works out better for me. It was an ideal form factor but the missing USB C was a problem.

New:

http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-MacBook-12-Inch-Charging/dp/B019PHF9UY/

Original:

http://www.amazon.com/Satechi®-Type-c-USB-3-0-Combo/dp/B015YRD8MA/

Purchased this a few times (I keep leaving it on campus 😔) and used it with the Apple 87watt charger pretty regularly. Works pretty well. I haven’t been able to really push the 100w PD capability since all I have is 87w and 60w adapters on me at any given time. Small warning that the input cable is pretty stiff so it doesn’t bend much.

My only issue has been with Hdmi + LG TVs at Hilton’s across the US. Sometimes it doesn’t output and what regularly works is to flip the plug. Works fine with LGs at other hotels so not sure what’s going on 🤔😛


HooToo USB C Hub, USB C Adapter with Ethernet Port, 4K HDMI, 100W Power Delivery, 3 USB 3.0 Ports for MacBook Pro & Google Chromebook & and More Type C Laptops - Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KQZ45F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xbj2Db0YXA7XQ

Warning:

Never pay someone using PayPal friends/family.

Do not trade with NNNerdy or jasonjXgl.

Always have a seller comment on your thread prior to making the transaction. This shows that the user hasn't been banned. You can check the ban list for a full list of banned users.

Title: [SG] [H] Samsung LC27JG50 27-Inch WQHD (144Hz) Monitor, DT770 Pro & Assorted Bits [W] PayPal/BT
Username: /u/ashzx
Original Post:
Got a bunch of stuff to sell. Prices include postage to UK. Open to offers, just shoot me a DM. If buying via PayPal, would like buyer to pay fees.

Item| Condition| Price| Pictures
---|---|----|----
Samsung LC27JG50 27-Inch WQHD (144Hz) Curved Monitor | Owned for a few months. Has a stuck white pixel in top left around ~10cm from each edge. Comes with original box + cables. Also: the UK plug is attached & it cannot be removed, so the EU adapter is pointless | £195| Monitor Box/Stand Cables (HDMI cable, Power Cable)
beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250ohm (with straight cable)| Replaced cable from original coiled one to a straight one. Used for around 3 years. Has some weird intermittent distortion at the bassy end when used with my headphone amp (the noise is not noticeable when amp is switched off). Have original box, but no headphone bag. | £45| Imgur
AmazonBasics 7 Port Powered USB Hub| Used for around a year to power the external sensors for my Oculus Rift. Full working order, includes USB cable, and the tiny IEC lead (pictured) | £15| Imgur
Inateck 4 Port Internal USB Card | Same story as above, comes with the SATA power connector (no molex one I'm afraid)| £8| Imgur
CableCreation 16FT Active USB Cable | Owned for a few years, again to use with Oculus Rift. Good working order, | £6 | Imgur

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I assume by "dex" you mean that you would like a USB-C HDMI adapter that you can use with your Note 9 to connect to an external monitor so that you can use Samsung Dex mode. You'd like a USB-C HDMI adapter that has two standard "large" USB slots that you can plug your keyboard and mouse into as well, and as well as a USB C port with power out. You'd like this to not require external power for some strange reason having to do with your not having a long enough cable from your charger?

The fact of the matter is that a USB-C HDMI adapter, as well as the keyboard and mouse that you'd attach to those slots, require power from somewhere. If you don't plug an external power source into the HDMI adapter, then that power is going to come from your Note 9's USB-C, draining your battery very quickly.

That's why most people will use a USB-C Hub/HDMI adapter that you can plug the power adapter into, and which will do pass-through charging of the phone via the USB-C plugged into the phone. I personally use (and recommend) this one from HooToo with both my Note 9 and Galaxy Tab S4:

HooToo USB C Hub, 6-in-1 USB C Adapter (2019 Upgrade) with Power Delivery, 4K HDMI, 3 USB 3.0 for MacBook/Pro/Air and Type C Windows Laptops(Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6R3CPB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_iTxkDbD0D9YG4

We have been using these with good results at the office:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KHNZXV/

I am considering getting something more "dock like" for the office but this thing has great portability.

I current have this one. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Charging-Ports-Adapter-HB-U930/dp/B00SIQIV04/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1482477192&sr=8-10&keywords=sabrent+usb+hub

I've had it for almost three years now and it's doing it's job great. The super charge USB ports don't connect with your computer, so you can use it to charge your phone or other devices. You also mount it on or under your desk. It's also smaller than more USB hubs I've been looking at.

I have 2 options for the type of Macbook Pro that is best suited for you:

• 3.3GHz dual-core Intel Core i7 processor, Turbo Boost up to 3.6GHz
  
  
• 16GB 2133MHz memory
  
  
• 512GB PCIe-based SSD
  
  
• Intel Iris Graphics 550
  
  
• Four Thunderbolt 3 ports
  
  
• Touch Bar and Touch ID
  
  However, if you do not care about having the Touch Bar, and since you are in IT, you might have a hard time using the function keys on the Touch Bar, then go for this build:
  
  
• 2.4GHz dual-core Intel Core i7 processor, Turbo Boost up to 3.4GHz
  
  
• 16GB 1866MHz memory
  
  
• 512GB PCIe-based SSD
  
  
• Intel Iris Graphics 540
  
  
• Two Thunderbolt 3 ports
  
  To solve your USB-A usage, here is a USB Hub that is a steal at $35, which contains 2 USB-A slots and a SD Card (if that might be helpful one day ;p) https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-c-USB-3-0-Combo/dp/B015YRD8MA?th=1
  
  

Rosewill 10 port hub for $19.99 with Prime
And [usb cables, pack of 5 for $4.99 with free shipping on ebay]
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/130868930669?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

I've had great luck with the hub, I've purchased 3 of them total (not all for me). I've been running 10 LG motions on one of mine and had no problems with the power supply (but you will need to turn down the brightness settings on the phones). The hub supports a max of 4 Amps ,400mA max per port if you're using all ten ports. I've also bought 3 packs of usb cables from that ebay seller. Quick shipping and no problems.

Yep, you can! Here's what I'm currently doing: https://imgur.com/a/e85b2

I am using this USB-C hub: https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Ethernet-Delivery-Network-Adapter/dp/B075KQZ45F/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520021842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=hootoo+usb-c+dock+ethernet

I don't have a surface dock and won't be buying one purely because of its low charging power output.

u/icedx2: I'm not sure if you ended up getting this dock but it's working great for my needs. Time to upgrade to a 1440p monitor...

So do you think this would be OK for the things I have? Or do you know of any better powered hubs? Is that even a powered hub?

I'm using a D-Link DUB-H4 bought on german amazon and it works perfectly fine on raspbian (as said model B).

If you have one around I'd test that first tho

I have the Satechi hub. This link says it’s for the 12 but I use it for my 15 MBp and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YRD8HK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yKJgAb0WPDEF9

I have a USB c dongle for my macbook(since it only has 4 usb-c ports) that has hdmi, Ethernet, USB, mini sd card, and usb-c pass through for charging. It's great and comes in handy a lot.

Like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX2LW35/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KwNXCb68C3JAM

Belkin F5L009 5-Port Network USB Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSN3O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b3vmDbDGJW3MX

A few moons ago, we used this for giving a centralized, secure location for mount USB software keys into a virtual environment. At the time, Belkin didn’t offer any server OS drivers for it so we had to hack the drivers out of a desktop OS to get it to work. It worked great for what we needed.

If you're talking a true pico projector I think your power demands can be satisfied by 802.3at.

Wouldn't it just be worth getting an active 802.3at splitter to step down the line power to 5v for the projector and pass along the ethernet connection. That way you're not locked into a single product.

Not sure if this is what you’re looking for... but it’s what I use and it’s great. Small and light

Satechi Type-C USB 3.0 3 in 1 Combo Hub for MacBook 12-Inch (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YRD8HK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SkUUzb2B6EZTB

Those look like easyget led buttons. I found the best way to get them to work is triple check the wires to each. There is a guide in the box to make sure you wire them right.

I also used this powered USB hub to take the stress off my raspberry pi

D-Link 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub including 4 Fast Charging Ports, mini USB 2.0 Port and 5V/2.5A Power Adapter (DUB-H4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B7DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k42mDbDJK63VA

Yes, you could find the specific run and cut it and re-terminate. If you terminate with dangling keystone jacks you can fit 8 in a 2-gang plate so you can likely fit that behind a single plate.

There's also compact punchdown blocks like this:
STEREN FastHome Data Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EHW88Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jktFDbWZ038XT

HooToo ftw! (I have the same hub for my Surface Go.)

Edit: linked it above in case anyone is interested in the model.

Just something I found off Amazon searching for structured wiring patch panels, Steren Cat5E termination module. It actually works great since it has little pegs that readily mount inside the box. Everything else, I ziptied in.

Where is your modem? Are you needing a wireless router installed?

Best practice will be to install a Cat5e patch panel to terminate the wires.

http://www.amazon.com/Steren-550-030-FastHome-Data-Hub/dp/B000EHW88Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450403863&sr=8-2&keywords=data+patch+panel

I can Punch down and certify the cable to perform at Gigabit speed.

Some pictures of my work:
http://imgur.com/a/nsqM2

If you are going the android route I always recommend that people think long term and cough up the money on a Nvidia Shield. That is ultimately the "smart" play. But I get it...some just can't afford it, or more often simply can't get past feeling that they shouldn't have to pay out that much money on a device (which a lot of those people still end up doing latter mind you and after never being completely satisfied with the cheaper devices while knowing something a lot better was still out there. Me being one of them once upon a time).

General rule of thumb though, don't buy anything with under 2gb of ram. You also ideally want your IPTV hard wired, so something that has an ethernet port or a proven to work well with it adapter option (that amazon branded one sucks btw).

I believe Walmart just released the new Xiaomi Mi S box at $59.99. Amazon doesn't have the adapter in stock anymore that I found to be solid (I read the cheaper one works, although I never tested it personally though), but if you could dig it up somewhere else that would be my sub-$100 recommendation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJXW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had very good results with this Hookoo port expander. It works quite well with both a MacBook 12" and my Acer Chromebook Tab 10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KHNZXV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am a photographer and I can have my external hard drive, flash drives, SD card, and my HDMI cord plugged in all at once. It makes my work quiet, fast, and efficient. It is very well made.

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Upgrade-Delivery-Grey/dp/B07M6R3CPB/ref=sr_1_66?keywords=usb+c+hub&qid=1557304501&s=gateway&sr=8-66

I got one from HooToo for my MBP, it works great, and only cost me $35

Here

It may be because that hub is USB 3.0. Pi's sometimes run into issues with USB 3.0 since the ports on the Pi are 2.0. This is the hub I've used into two different builds and it has worked great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P2BY5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some people have also put them in drawers. Also you can use a powered USB hub like this one to replace many power bricks. Retractable USB cables may also be useful in cutting down clutter.

I’ve been using the hyperdrive 9 in 1 for the past week and I really enjoy it. It only charges up to 60W though so it won’t work too well with the 15 inch model. Best Buy also had it on sale this week but I don’t really remember the price..
Hyperdrive 9 in 1

You've got to make sure that the USB Eruptors are getting enough power. Plugging one into the USB Port on a Mac has not worked for me. I had to buy a powered USB hub.

This one from Amazon powers 10 ASIC USB Block Eruptors and a single USB fan to cool them:

http://www.amazon.com/iDsonix-trade-Charging-Adapter-Protector/dp/B00FDKAFAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394543968&sr=8-1&keywords=idsonix

This one's been working great for my Wii U. I have a hard drive plugged in with a y-cable, and also the USB ethernet adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P2BY5I/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005HARR2W&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=184Q4MDZ4DDSA2RHRJKD

Plugable USB 2.0 4-Port High Speed Hub - 15.95

OK question for you sir...

Which power adapter did you then get to power and which XPS do you have?

Asking because I have the XPS 15 9550, and narrowed it down to 2 hubs.

• https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07VZLR8G1/

PD charging at Max 60W(20V/3A)

OR THIS ONE:

• https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075KHNZXV

100W PD Port

Do I have to get the 100W one?

Then get this power adapter?

• https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07QGBGK78/

I have these two and both charges my MBP 15 full speed using a Best Buy Insignia USB C charger.

HooToo USB C Hub With Ethernet, HDMI,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KQZ45F?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

USB C Hub, ALLEASA 8 in 1 Type C... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWSG8NB?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I assume it ahould work with yours too.

Ive tried out a few. If you want a nice affordable one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TVSLDND?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

And then there's this one that's quite a bit more:
https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Adapter-MacBook-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B07S7LVDC9/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=USB+c+hub+hyperdrive+ethernet&qid=1572309948&sr=8-3

On the USB C only Macbook Pro, here's a nice adapter that gives USB A ports, 1 SD card slot and 1 Micro SD Card Slot, here's a more expensive one.

And yes, the iMac Pro has an SD Card slot, you can check MKBHD's video

This one is pretty compact http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DUB-H4-High-Speed-4-Port/dp/B00006B7DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346822024&sr=8-1&keywords=D-Link+DUB-H4

This has been working well for me for a while. Frequently run my Carbon 49 controller, a launchpad mini, and an lpd8 through it concurrently. There is a UBS 3 version as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JEOWV14/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's like a multiple USB port bank with a connector for a USB power supply. Here's an example https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIGIFLEX-Speed-Power-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003DVC7N6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465758089&sr=8-1&keywords=powered+usb+hub

The additional power plug supply relieves the computer of having to supply power so it should have all the power it needs. Electronics - they can go for years or fail overnight - there's no logic. Anyway, a powered hub is a useful thing to have, and it may solve your clicking.

https://www.amazon.com/iDsonix-Charging-Adapter-Protector-Chipset/dp/B00FDKAFAW/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481781233&sr=1-4&keywords=idsonix

Plugged into wall. So was the older, cheaper hub. I bought this one because I thought it would be enough of an improvement over the older one that it would charge these Zone 3 phones...

OK, so this is a radio interference problem here. These probably all work somewhere in the 2.4Ghz ISM band and they interfere, heavily. First thing to do is to set them to disjoint frequency ranges if such is possible. Then but only then is there a point in looking at physically separating the dongles, but I do not readily see what that would accomplish -- your very person is a point where all the radio waves need to come together so separating the USB radios is ... pointless?

If your problem is you can't physically plug in these devices, well, get more small hubs. Four port hubs with a port on each side are readily available. You can plug a hub into another hub.

I got this one this one , still a good price and has a coupon

Thanks, any thoughts about this guy:

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabit-Splitter-Adapter-802-3at-compliant/dp/B00NH8QSOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451483761&sr=8-1&keywords=802.3at+Poe+Splitter

Try using a small usb 3.0 hub to free up some ports. I have an external hard drive plugged into one port, the hub in the other. Unifying receiver plugged into the hub.

I have this one and it so far it has been working great. I have both my external HDD and LAN adapter plugged into it and have had no issues so far. I'll bet you are looking at USB 3.0 hubs. You only need 2.0 for the Wii U and they are much less expensive.

Its a D-Link Dub-H4 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006B7DA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/182-3617890-6651766?qid=1418499108&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40). It comes with a 5v 2.5A power brick that can handle the Pi, hub, wifi adapter, and 4 controllers easy. I did disassemble it a d soldered the usb cables directly to the hub. This was just for ruggedness, I didnt want cables coming detatched from throwing it in a backpack and taking it places. It will work without doing that though. If you have any other questions let me know.

So it seems like it may be related to my PC line. It's plugged into one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KHNZXV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_qlzCDbZGN55ZC
And my network just crashed and I recovered it by unplugged the hub. The hub is powered so is it's possible it's overloading the network/switch?

I use these two. It gives you 3 USB ports and an Ethernet port. Works great.

Note: After you plug in the hub, you will need to reboot for it to work. Also the GPI controller will not work till you unplug the hub and reboot, but you can just plug a keyboard into the hub.

USB Hub with Ethernet - UGREEN RJ45 Ethernet Adapter with USB 2.0 Hub & Micro USB 2.0 OTG Cable

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9S9Z0G/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJXW/

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "hub"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

I have the 13" Core i7 with NVIDIA GPU. The Book was hibernating overnight, if that matters. I am using the Wacom 100W power supply hooked up to a HooToo USB-C hub.

The hub gets pretty hot, but I don't think that should affect things, since the power should just be "passing through," right?

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJXW

Not all adapters work.

What about something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F5L009-5-Port-Network-USB/dp/B000QSN3O6

If you can find a USB 2 version of it?

Well if you plan on hooking up an external hdd to it, you are going to need a powered USB hub such as this or this for example.

You'll be looking for a pass through adapter then.

Only one I've seen are designed for a mac but do provide you with what you need though they are bulky.

So similar to this although they have changed it now to usb c to allow pass through (one below is older model but .com site has it)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B015YRD8HK/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=3P2BQUQ0JRY14&coliid=I10TS45W0CC09S&vs=1

I'm very happy with my matebook x pro. I had it last year when it first came out. If you do a lot of coding, you will find the keyboard to be pleasant, it's not perfect but it's decent. Now, I don't know about the newer one (2019) I haven't read any reviews about linux for the newer model.

TBH this laptop didn't have any major issue with linux when it first came out, it's just these small bits and pieces. Except maybe the fingerprint sensor that needs some work. I dual-booted Fedora the second day I had the laptop, not a single issue since then.

For a usb c dock, the matebook comes with one that has VGA, usb, hdmi, and another usb-c. I wanted one with ethernet and sdcard so I bought this usb c hub. Now, I usually carry this hub and this VGA to hdmi adapter.

Overall, I don't think you would regret this choice, it's really a solid laptop.

Im not sure if something like this would work for you https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Upgrade-Delivery-Grey/dp/B07M6R3CPB/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=K7YH9F8OT8RR&keywords=hootoo+usb+c+hub&qid=1557260610&s=gateway&sprefix=hootoo&sr=8-3

Also, I ended up getting this hub and it works well, powers the pi too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P2BY5I/

I have the Mi box us version this works just fine and you get ethernet to boot !

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542421908&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=UGREEN+RJ45&dpPl=1&dpID=41JdYzUeyCL&ref=plSrch

I'm concerned that the included adapter is only 2A. The USB 3.0 spec calls for a max of 900mA = 0.9A of power per port. Since 4 times 0.9A is 3.6A, it's possible that it would still be under-powered.

If you're really on a budget just try it straight into your motherboard first. Try all the different ports. You might not even need a card/hub.

Edit: one of these would probably work

• https://www.amazon.co.uk/AUKEY-Adapter-Transfer-Windows-Laptops/dp/B01NAS2639
  
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00E4J3708

https://laptoping.com/specs/product/rca-cambio-w101-v2-10-1-2-in-1-tablet-32gb-intel-atom-quad-core-windows-10/

I run it on this tablet right here.

Only problem I had was the 2.4ghz wifi wasn't strong enough for anything more then 10mbs bitrate, i use a USB2.0 to Ethernet hub that also has 3 usb ports.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This here works perfectly on my TV

so for the first time in a long time, I disregarded my mother's advice on "if it sounds too good to be true...." and bought this on amazon

​

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Ethernet-Delivery-Network/dp/B075KHNZXV?ref=ast_p_ep

​

I don't understand how it's only $9.99 but fingers crossed that it is legit.

I use a Plugable hub with mine and have been able to successfully get multiple audio devices to all work seamlessly in iOS 8 and now 8.0.2.

However there have been problems with audio apps across the board, especially with midi, and many still don't work with AudioBus. It's very possible that it's a software bug in the Launchpad app.

Interesting. I tried to connect external display with a different USB-C dongle and it worked with no issue.

• Didn't work: link
  
• Did work: link

This is the closest thing I could find. It doesn't seem to give quite as much power as you want though. Look around for powered usb hubs.

It's only a minor inconvenience. If you don't use the onboard USB port for anything else then you can use this adapter. If you need your USB port and ethernet then use this adapter. Or this one or this one if you want faster networking (not true gigabit but about 350 Mbps vs 100 Mbps).

Nvm i may have found the answer

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJXW/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+and+ethernet+hub+for+switch&qid=1566599534&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Are you taking about this one?

HooToo USB C Hub With Ethernet, HDMI, 100W Power Delivery, 3 USB ports USB C Network Adapter for MacBook Pro & Type C Windows Laptops - Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KQZ45F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V9QgAbTNG6JE7

I'm Canadian, so I switch .com to .ca and the price doubles from $25 to $48.70
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004F38WT4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1FSV7J7JAX7PF&coliid=I139D8YNDNYZ7O&psc=1

Why?

https://www.amazon.com/Steren-550-030-FastHome-Data-Hub/dp/B000EHW88Q/
some 1 foot or 6 inch patch cables

Netgear or TP-link switch with a POE splitter/output box that will power non-poe devices (or get a switch that can be powered off POE)

unless you just loop a connection back to where your home network is.

I installed one of these panels recently, If I remember this post, I'll show you what I did.

I use a plugable 10-port usb 2.0 hub with 9 or 10 ports in use. Never had any issues.

I know the HooToo one has 100W passthrough, but it has an HDMI output...

Maybe this works?

Using this currently: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-100Mbps-Network-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJXW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

USB C Hub, TOTU 8-in-1 Type C Hub... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX2LW35?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Power supply from the MBP plugs right into the hub.

I ordered this: Sabrent 7 Port USB 3.0 HUB + 2 Charging Ports with 12V/4A Power Adapter [Black] (HB-U930) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SIQIV04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rer8Cb83DHJ3T

I wonder if I could power the AtomicPi using the quick charge ports. They are 2.4 amps but what if I use a usb splitter and power off that?

Totu 8 in 1

Two suggestions:

https://www.amazon.com/Steren-550-030-FastHome-Data-Hub/dp/B000EHW88Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492710438&sr=1-5&keywords=rj45+hub

and this

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Unitek-Converter-Chromebook-Ultrabook/dp/B01N4IEHJG/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492710438&sr=1-7&keywords=rj45+hub

I use a Hootoo port extender with a Gigabit Ethernet port in it. Works just fine...

This one here: https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-Delivery/dp/B075KHNZXV

This is what I purchased and use for various things.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P2BY5I/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4XC8EO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

also:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F38WT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use on my Alienware Area-51m. It's a Type-C dock you won't find a proper Thunderbolt dock for that price.

​

USB C Hub, TOTU 8-In-1 Type C Hub with Ethernet Port, 4K USB C to HDMI, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, 1 USB 2.0 Port, SD/TF Card Reader, USB-C Power Delivery, Portable for Mac Pro and Other Type C Laptops (Silver)

​

It has 3 USB ports, 2 of which are 3.0 and one is 2.0. Then it has an SD Card and Micro SD Card slot so I put my memory cards there for more storage plus it has a built in LAN port

The $69 Mi Box at Walmart - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mi-Box-Android-TV/54827138 . Also grab a $13 compatible Ethernet adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJXW .

A Thunderbolt dock is your best bet, though if you're balking at $80 for the Ankers then I guess one's not on the cards.

I use in some cases more than one of the

Satechi,

Anker,

Anker,

Yet Another Anker,

Aukey

^^^And ^^^no, ^^^those ^^^aren't ^^^native ^^^C ^^^ports ^^^- ^^^you'd ^^^have ^^^to ^^^be ^^^an ^^^idiot ^^^to ^^^expect ^^^that ^^^for ^^^<$50




and they all suck to different degrees - the Ankers possibly being the worst though it's a fine line. The main problem is consistency in operation - e.g. even with a much higher-rated PSU feeding it, Power Delivery behaviour of peripherals connected to the ports can be unreliable. And that's on top of other USB stuff I plug in which either aren't recognised or drop off from time to time. This whole thing has made using a Macbook IRL a fucking nightmare and right now I'm really wishing I hadn't dumped all of my '15 MBP's when I switched over wholesale to the '16 MB/Ps.

Still waiting for OWC Thunderbolt dock to be released + reviewed then I'll order them for all my semi-stationary setups. Again though, it's a $300 proposition. The $200 Caldigit TS3 Lite is now shipping but I don't like it's limited scope of ports.

Doesn't have an SD card reader, but this is much cheaper and the one that I use: https://smile.amazon.com/HooToo-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-Delivery/dp/B075KHNZXV

I also daisy-chained a standard Type-A hub to it for a few extra peripherals, but that's all hidden with some decent cable management.

I personally decided against the style that you linked to because:

• they're around twice as expensive,
  
• I didn't need a dedicated SD card slot (vs a USB one), and
  
• the extra space needed for the 5 different video-out ports seemed pretty useless with an eGPU.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EHW88Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?qid=1416362200&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70


Something like this,

Your best search term buddy here is "110 block"

I just got a SP6 and the USB-C dock and have the same issue. I used the VAVA hub recommended by The Wirecutter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079GSMZ7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I am crazy, so I just ordered this HooToo hub to try out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KQZ45F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It's a shame that the Minix doesn't work either. I was going to try that one next. Maybe there is some limitation of my monitors, cables, or usb passthrough I'm not thinking about here? Using a Nektek power hub that should be giving the hub 60w.

Kingston is a reputable company and there shouldn't be an issue. Many times it's user error. But not sure how something so simple could got wrong. Using the pass through charging shouldn't be an issue as it should be to spec but sometimes companies get it wrong (look at the raspberry pi 4)
I use this one with much luck But there are so many out there.