(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best dog grooming supplies

> im very paranoid about putting my future suit in the wash. i hear its really good for them (of course, when inside out, all tail fluff/digitigrade styrofoam taken out, and put on gentle), but i just dont trust it and i want to preserve it for as long as it can. is it better to handwash it or should i trust it and put it in the wash?

Washing your suit in some fashion is basically (or should be) required. Suits will start to retain your sweat and funk over time, and no-one wants to hug a smelly suit.

However, exactly how you wash it will vary, both depending on your preferences as well as how the suit is put together. Generally, you will want to see if your suit maker has any particular instruction/guide for washing their suits first, as they will likely know best what will and won't work well (maybe).

Machine washing is sometimes an option, but usually only on gentle settings with delicate detergent (like Woolite). Not all suits will do well, such as those with airbrushing, but it can be an option. However, NEVER expose the suit to heat - it will melt the fibers and likely ruin the look of the fur. That means NO DRYER, unless it you explicitly only use the spin cycle (no heat).

Hand washing is also a decent option and may be safer, though it is much more involved and difficult. Usually done in a bathtub, again using a delicate soap like Woolite or similar.

Drying in both cases requires laying the suit out to air dry. You must keep the whole thing supported, as water is heavy and can stretch the suit if hung up. This can take a long time, so squeeze (or spin) out as much of the water as you can beforehand.

It's also a good idea to brush the suit once it has been cleaned, to keep the fur looking good. You can use pet fur slicker brushes for this.

Finally, not all fursuit parts should (or need to) be washed. Anything with foam should not be (mostly just the head), as it will retain water and grow mold. Tails don't generally need washing unless they drag a lot. Feetpaws too, especially if they have foam.

> ive done a little bit of research and read that its good to use 75/25 water and isopropyl alcohol (with mint scent if desired) as a disinfectant, is this recommended or is there a better recommendation? (yes, i am aware about the damage lysol can do)

That should work fine. I don't recall the proportion I use (might be 50/50? Probably not, I'd need to check) but it works fine for disinfecting. Just be sure to do it in some open space, as the stuff hangs in the air and isn't great to smell.

> what kind of brushes are the best for grooming and removing mats but without removing a lot of fur? i cant find a good one online, out of the few sites ive visited, but my current candidates are this brush and a big fat maybe on this brush , but i only looked up what is best for actual pets and not for fursuits...

You'll probably want something more like this. That's actually the one I use, though backwards. Be gentle brushing, as any fur you remove will not grow back, but don't worry too much about losing a bit of fur. It happens.

> fursuit owners, whats your recommendation on a good place to... actually get a fursuit?

I don't really have specific recommendations (though I got mine here), but I would advise you to really do some research and find a few options with prices/features you want. Bear in mind that there are a lot of makers out there and they can vary a lot in style and construction. Many of the popular and well-known makers may have long queues and don't open for commissions long.

It may help to have what features you really want in mind, then find a few makers that can do it (if you aren't sure, ask! Many will answer email questions). Get a quote or two or three, then make your decision based on all the factors (waiting time, price, style, etc). Take your time as needed.

> i know it can get boiling hot in those suits, so i was thinking about purchasing some cooling packs to go along with me, such as a cooling vest, cooling scarf, maybe something for my legs and forehead, etc. and of course if they run out of coldness, i can always stop at the headless lounge or my room, but still... is this a good idea, or should i just go with the traditional in-suit fans?

No matter what you use, you WILL get hot in suit and you WILL sweat. Measures such as fans and cooling vests will help, but it's still going to be warm in there.

As far as recommendations, I'd consider some kind of underarmor - specifically the heat gear, NOT the cold stuff. You want something that will both catch the sweat and cool you off as you move. A balaclava is also recommended, even though some fursuit heads may have one built in (wear two!).

If that's not an option for some reason, plainclothes such as T-shirt and pants can work fine. DON'T suit naked, you will not like it.

Fans are nice to have in the head but not all makers include them - you may have to put one in yourself. It's important to remember that they need a flow of cooler air to work well, so unless you have an open mouth or some other opening you may not want to bother with one.

Cooling vests are nice but can cost a decent amount. They're not strictly necessary (I don't have one), but I have heard good things about them. It's maybe worth considering, but I don't have a real opinion on their effectiveness.

The most important thing is to ultimately be careful and know your limits. It gets really hot in suit, but with practice it's more than manageable. Don't be afraid of the heat, but do take it seriously! And drink plenty of water!

> i wear glasses... and that maaaaay be a problem for my fursuit. since... the nose sits so close to the wearer's nose. (i am using a cat sona for my first suit) should i get contacts, or try to fit the glasses over the character's eyes, or maybe just cut a piece of styrofoam to fit the center of the glasses?? agh, i dunno...

The maker may be able to account for this and leave room in the head for them - at least from my limited experience, many will ask about it when getting a quote. I will say that this isn't always perfect either - I did mention it when mine was being made, but it turned out to be just a hair too small to be comfortable wearing them... so I go without.

Contacts will be easier on this, obviously (though I don't like them so I don't use them). However, depending on your vision without glasses, it may not matter. Fursuit vision can be pretty limited to begin with, so the lack of glasses may or may not make so huge of a difference. That said, it might be preferable to have them.

> lastly... are furcons even safe? i know theres a TON of people who hate furries and, i hope, joke around saying theyll go and shoot up a con, or something... yes, i know to go with a friend, and to not leave after midnight.

Absolutely, and in fact they tend to be one of the only places one can really fursuit without a handler (though having one anyways is not a bad idea). In my experience, you don't really see any 'hate' at these things - you're more likely to just see people outside being a bit bemused... or curious enough to join in.

Going with a friend is a good idea, especially if you will be suiting (if you go outside of con space you will NEED a handler). You'll likely have more fun with one than you would alone anyways.

The threats about cons may happen, but people actually carrying them out are practically nonexistent. The reality is that some people will say big nasty things online that they'd never bother carrying out in person, and we get our share of that. Most people really aren't bothered by it, though, and the con organizers will likely be prepared to deal with such possibilities... if they even ever happen.

> aaaand i think that does it...! yeah, i know thats a lot, but i dont wanna make any mistakes for my first suit!

It's good that you're putting a lot of thought and preparation into this, but don't stress out too much.

The only extra thing I'll mention is to really consider how much you will get use out of a suit, as they're not something you'll just throw on anytime and wearing them at home gets old fast. You don't need a fursuit to go to a convention either (in fact, you may have an easier time without one for your first). They're not magic either - you'll feel less like you're an anthro and more like you're covered in a fuzzy carpet you can barely see out of.

But it can be a lot of fun and is a unique experience, to be sure, so don't take this as too much discouragement. Just bear in mind that a fursuit is an expensive investment, and you will probably want to get the most out of it that you can.

Good luck with your endeavors, and if you have any other specific questions I will try to answer. I'm not an expert at this so others might have better answers for you, but hopefully this helps.

While I don't disagree with the other comment, because yes, once your adult dog is older you can skip many months bathing and only need to brush once a week, there are many, many puppies who do not get groomed enough while young and don't ever get used to it. As a result, it ends up being an extremely stressful process for them and because they were not adjusted to it when they were young, this becomes a PROCESS to reverse later on. This is not just in the realm of grooming - there are so many dogs that are so freaked out that they express their anal glands when they go in for nail trims, dogs whose owners don't realize there are areas that mat easily so they have huge golf-ball sized mats behind their ears that need to be cut out, and dogs that are never acclimated to high velocity dryers so when their owner has to inevitably take them to a groomer because they had never chosen to acclimate their dog to basic grooming processes themselves, the dog freaks the hell out while they are there and that ends up being a hit to their wallet - only a groomer can groom them which becomes expensive, and tougher dogs usually command a higher price because of the time and effort needed to get them groomed.

For a young puppy, you have the best chance of making sure that none of this happens by frontloading the expectations with your little guy or gal and creating a consistent grooming routine. Even if you don't buy your own high velocity dryer, introduce them to the sensations early and often - vacuum cleaner acclimation for the noises, and some people use Shop Vacs or leaf blowers as they do a nice, adequate job on drying young puppy coat. My dog's breeder recommended bathing every week or so until the puppy was 4-6 months old, then dropping down to monthly until they're an adult - you can do this but really make sure you wash all the shampoo and conditioner out so you do not dry the skin. My puppy was tougher due to the fact we had to go to a crazy pet store to do a DIY wash, so we bathed him weekly to get him used to it until 8 months. Once the dog is an adult you can go months without bathing for sure.

When the dog is a puppy, it's important to comb down to the skin to remove mats and tangles a couple times a week. I did it every 2-3 days. This will be hard because it might be annoying or hurt a puppy, and once they realize they have teeth, they will not be afraid to use them, so it's really easy to put it off. Part of the reason it is annoying for a puppy is because as the puppy ages they have a mix of puppy and adult coat, which causes difficult tangles to extract sometimes, and detangling can be a painful process. I made this cheatsheet of spots to take special care with that mat easily especially during various coat transitions so if you focus on these more often you can prevent mats before they even start. Search YouTube for videos on how to groom and line comb dogs, there are tons that will help you with your technique. In general, as long as a dog isn't too tangled, I use a cheap but quality undercoat rake for the big spots a couple times a week to get the undercoat out and prevent matting, which allows me to spot-linecomb the problem areas. I also use a pin brush for the tail (the tines on this model are about 5mm too long than what Sammy people recommended me), although some people prefer to line comb the tail. Slicker brushes are also great for the topcoat, or if you are trying to get that super poofy blown out coat - slickering when the dog is 3/4ths dry from the skin up will get you that "straightening iron"-esque poofy marshmallow look and that's usually how it's done for shown dogs.

Don't forget to handle your puppy's paws and play with it's feet daily, trim nails once every 1-2 weeks, and open to their mouth to inspect their bite (to make sure that if something happens in the future, you or a vet can inspect their teeth without any issue). All of these tend to be very important things that help a lot when your puppy becomes an adult.

We were extra careful with our puppy because we were very lax with a lot of these things with our older dog, a small dog who used to readily accept nail trims, and now she thrashes and snaps so badly we cannot do it at home and have to take her to a groomer and force-feed her chicken nuggets while the groomer does her paws, and absolutely resents baths. We tried very hard to make sure our Samoyed didn't have to go through those levels of stress especially since he's way larger and we wouldn't be able to control him the same if we needed to. My dog is now almost 2, and he's so chill about bathing and grooming now that it's not even remotely a stressful process, even though he was absolutely NOT fun to groom during adolescence (this is a picture of him being dried after not being bathed for almost 2 months). Drying him is actually pretty fun and relaxing and even though honestly I skimp on combing and brushing quite a bit, when we end up doing it he will lay for me nicely and do okay because of all the work we put into him when he was young. :)

Awww she is a beauty and THANK YOU for saving her! Whoever kept her like this is a monster!

In case you need any tips as a new bunny parent take a look at the little guide on care I assembled below https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_IvDuy5Fr-VOKwBVBSmZih0m1ATCIquIMhYyFl4aIw . I really tried to include all the info a new bunny parent might want into this guide...

​

She looks like a lionhead and possibly mixed jersey woolly bunny. The coat will grow back and she might have been shaved for looks or to help with grooming (this is frequent for fluffy buns.

But be sure to groom her daily to avoid matting and GI blockage.

Bunnies need regular brushing to help them with shedding fur. Unlike cats they cannot throw up hairballs and if those do form, they will create a block in their digestive system which is very dangerous. You need to brush several times a week regularly and when shedding heavily every single day.

Sometimes it can be hard to get those silky fine bun hairs. There very best brush I found is this one - it gets all that loose hair out due to the rubber band and might help you a bit. This brush it worth the cost and will last forever and most buns don't hate it and it's certainly cheaper than ER bills.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUdq_UhMQAQ - very informative video on brushing

https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/b3cctl/sesame_getting_brushed_as_requested/ - someone on this forum

Also I would get this brush in size small - this one is god for everyday use to help avoid mats and tangles. It is very gentle.

Try to establish a clear reward mechanism - for example show the bunny two blueberries. Give one right away and the other right after you are done. Over a couple times this will build more positive associations with brushing as a reward will be expected. Bunnies are VERY food motivated.

Hey! I'll gladly share what I use:

• This is the grooming table, it makes brushing and drying them a lot easier.
  
  
• This is the dryer I use, but you don't need something as powerful, there are plenty of cheaper alternatives, I just like that one because it does the job quickly. Here is a cheaper dryer that some of my Sammy owner friends also use.
  
  
• Comb
  
  
• Pin Brush
  
  I can't find the brands of some of the other brushes I use as I bought them at dog shows but here are some alternatives:
  
  
• Slicker brush
  
  
• Rake
  
  
  For shampoo you don't really need to spend money on show quality whitening shampoo, I only use it for show bathing, for a regular bath I use this shampoo, it is sold at Petco.
  
  
• Conditioning/Detangling spray that you can use during the weekly brush to get the tangles and matts out easier and to moisturize the coat.
  
  So these are the basics :) For the regular weekly brush what I usually do is spray the detangling spray all over the coat, paying particular attention to the more matted areas (behind the ears, on the thighs etc.) then I start gently brushing the dog with the Rake, this will get the largest tangles out. Then I line comb using the Comb, line combing means you comb the coat in small sections (lines), here is a good video that shows how to line comb. Then I use the Slicker Brush on their legs, brushing them against the grain. To finish off I brush the tail with the Pin Brush and lightly go over the rest of the coat with it as well, brushing against the grain around the neck. Never use anything but the pin brush on the tail because it is the gentlest brush you have so it won't break the hair on the tail which regrows very slowly if you damage it.
  
  I know it sounds complicated but it really doesn't take a long time, takes me about 20 mins per dog once a week and their coats look great :) Bathing is a whole other story but you don't need to bathe a Samoyed very often at all.
  
  
  

Here are a few tricks you can try to help with a feisty Beagle!

1. Try massaging his paws for a few minutes before bringing out the clippers. Clip one nail, massage a little bit. Clip another, massage. Rinse repeat. It takes patience, but eventually he may let you speed up and clip them quickly.
   
   
2. Try having a second person who the dog loves and trusts petting and loving on him. Let them give him treats so he knows what a good boy he is being!
   
   
3. Try wrapping him in a blanket with only the paw you are working on and his head uncovered. This may simulate a Thunder Shirt (Warning, auto-play video when opened) and keep him calmer during the clipping. Don't wrap him too tightly or he may freak out over being unable to move freely.
   
   
4. Try giving him a Peanut Butter Ball filled with peanut butter. Our Beagles will let you do almost anything to them (except take the ball) when they have this ball. This only works if your dog is the kind who doesn't run away with treats and toys.
   
   
5. Take him on more frequent walks/longer walks on concrete. Obviously the effects of walking on hard surfaces can be detrimental so please keep moderation in mind. That said, walking on concrete or the street helps keep your dog's nails shorter for longer because they naturally wear away on the ground. This is NOT a replacement for trimming nails in any way. You still need to maintain their nails.
   
   Lastly, I want to mention that grinders aren't very good for their nails - or ours for that matter. They weaken the nail making it more likely to split, splinter or break. Also, it is very easy to over grind. If you really feel like you'd like to dull his nails you can use a coarse grit human nail file (you would need to use the file as you would for human hands, filing in only one direction and not back and forth) or claw covers!
   
   Let me know if I've gone off the rails! Good luck!

• I have this Crate and this seems like it would be a good size. Don't get it any bigger than you have to or the dog is more likely to pee/poop in one corner and sleep in the other.
  
  
• If she's smelly and seems scared of a bath, some pet wipes will hold you over until she seems more chill
  
  Toys:
  
  
• Get a Kong, fill with cooked sweet potato, peanut butter, plain yogurt with a little kibble mixed in, etc, then freeze till solid, and give to your dog for a treat that stimulates them mentally, keeps them busy, and helps with separation anxiety.
  
  
• Hide-a-Squirrel. An interactive toy- you stuff the log with squirrels and any other toys you have and let your dog have a blast tearing them out
  
  
• Treat dispensing toy you can use to actually feed your dog her meals if she eats too fast. I like this one because you can change the difficulty by making the hole openings smaller or larger
  
  
• Lastly if you have no idea what kind of toys she likes and are striking out (and have a little extra dough lying around and want to treat yo-self), you might want to try ordering BarkBox (you can almost always get a free month when signing up so google coupon codes before ordering). I did it for about a year and a half and was always blown away by the quality and the amazing way they curate each box to fit a theme. The toys were always adorable!
  
  I didn't know about the 2 Week Shutdown when I got my dog and while things turned out okay in the end, I definitely think it would have been VERY beneficial to do it. So best of luck and please update us with pics when she gets home!

Is that your poodle in the chair? Omg too cute lol

I recommend using “The Stuff” to help keep the tangles out. Some ppl hate it because it’s a silicone spray but I consistently use it on client dogs that are in long scissored trims (havanese, Maltese, yorkies, Bichons, Standards) and come in every 6-8 weeks. Their owners do not brush at home. I have not had a problem with keeping tangles out. In fact most times I can toss them right in the tub without having to brush first. Regardless of coat type. It smells good, and leaves the dog hair soft and manageable.
One of my Maltese clients asked me what I used because she washes her dog at home between visits, and her dog was matting up overnight but after I groomed the dog it would last for weeks... I told her the same info.

It’s a leave on spray. You can get it ready to go, or in concentrate which you mix with distilled water so it doesn’t spoil. Wash your dog, towel dry lightly, spritz sparingly on his hair and rub your hands over where you sprayed to get it into the hair. You don’t need much.

Make sure you spritz this in an area where you won’t be walking. It is slicker than snot on the floor and you will break your neck!! Works great for the bottom of sleds during winter, by the way lol. Try putting a towel down before you spray it on him so no overspray gets on the floor (or in your tub if you’re washing him at home). Then dry him like normal.

You can also lightly spritz this on his dry coat if you have a problem area that has a mat, but it’s designed to go on wet hair. No other demat tools needed. Just a good brush (I’m old school and still use a slicker).

Here’s a link to it on amazon. The Stuff


Hope that works for you. :)
https://imgur.com/gallery/5DjoG

I have only had my greyhound, Kuiper, for 3 weeks, so I can speak to what the first couple weeks with a shy dog is. He is also a retired racer (race name Bella Kingo) and was off the track for about 2 months before coming into our home. What is your girls racing name? What is her new name going to be?

Greyhounds in generally seem to be a very reserved breed at first, but they then open up and ours is becoming quite the goofball!

I don't know if you plan on kenneling her at all, but we chose to kennel Kuiper and are very happy we did. He likes to "get away from it all" sometimes and just goes to his kennel to take a nap. Also, he prefers to eat while standing in his kennel - while reaching to his food bowl outside.

As for things to keep in mind. The first day is often overwhelming for the dogs (at least it was for Kuiper.) Hourly trips outside until he got on schedule (he didn't go poop for the first 2 days!) and we ended up adding some metamucil to his food to solidify his stool. Greys can be sensitive, and you'll notice it most when they go to the bathroom. Also, we kennel Kuiper in our room at night and the second night his stomach was grumbling so loud it actually woke us up. That sometimes happens with the stress of new scenery and a new diet.

Also, patio doors! Our grey took one look at our deck and headed right into our patio door. He didn't hurt himself, but was kind of confused as first. So, if you have a patio door, just draw the blinds or put some masking tape on it and then introduce it to him.

I'll give you our experience with our cats. When we first got Kuiper, we put the cats in the basement for the first day to give him a chance to acclimate himself to us and our house. The second day we brought the cats up and every time a cat would come near, Kuiper would jump to his feet. At first, we thought it was a sign of aggression, we soon figured out that he was TERRIFIED of them and just wanted to leave the room when they came in. 3 weeks later, he still doesn't "like" them, but generally completely ignores them.

Another thing you could do to help the bond is grooming her. We bought a grooming glove which Kuiper really likes. I think it helps build the bond between him and I.

I had the chance to take off some work and spend the first couple days with him - I think that helped. All in all, we are still learning a LOT. He hasn't had any accidents in the house and only barks (or whines) when he needs to go outside to relieve himself. Honestly, it has been nothing short of fantastic!

Edit: I would also recommend a harness instead of a collar for when you go outdoors. I was reading an article just the other day that said there has been an increase in cases of dogs having esophageal problems because of collars. With shy dogs, sometimes they like to just freeze and stand there - and sometimes you need to move them for their own safety (i.e. Kuiper likes to freeze when people on bikes come towards him and we need to gently move him to the side of the trail.) The harness takes the strain off the neck. Just my two cents :)

For the rake, I just use something generic (and with two rows) like the one at this link. I'd think anything similar would be as effective and I've seen 'em in the PetSmart discount bins for just a few dollars, too. Even a single row is fine, but I get the impression the double catches more hair per stroke - for whatever that's worth.

In terms of the slicker brush, I use the older version of this brush, but you don't need the self-cleaning bit if you don't want to spend that much. It's just for ease of use. The ones that are shaped like this work pretty well, too.

Basically, they're just generic brushes.. use the rake thoroughly first (I usually go "against the grain") and then come by and clean up with the slicker ("with the grain"). Their coat gleams, it doesn't damage the undercoat, and it does a pretty damned good job.

Sora is the only husky I've owned so far (although I have to keep myself from not having a dozen or two) so his situation may or may not be the norm, but twice a year he will shed his undercoat (happens to all Huskies but I'm not sure on the frequency) which typically lasts 6-8 weeks in his case. During this time you can pluck patches of wooly hair from his coat since they get dislodged from the skin; with regular brushing you can keep the runaway hair in check - a light brushing every day and a couple passes of something like the Furminator once a week should help.

I've found that the best thing to help remove the dislodged hair is to actually use a flea comb - it gets the hair right out, but not all sections of the undercoat decide to go at the same time.

Outside of this period he sheds mildly, so I use a Furminator and one of these and I think they work well. Depends on the length of your dog's hair, but since mine has medium hair both of these work.

These guys just never stop shedding though, and they have a LOT of hair. It's just something you learn to live with, but some folks can't stand the mess they naturally make. Having a Husky and being a neat freak don't go well together :)


Edit: Like said below, you never want to shave these guys when the concern is for their heat tolerance. Their coat protects them from extreme cold but also from extreme heat, and their skins are very sensitive to the sunlight. I does them more harm than good to shave them.

For my doodle, BioSilk Therapy Detangling and Shine Spray has been a lifesaver - makes brushing out the tangles/mats a heck of a lot easier (also lessens the pain for your pup!)

Remember when you brush you shouldn't just brush one way... you need to go backwards, sideways, pretty much every angle to make sure you aren't missing any mats tight up against the skin. I recommend using a comb with different bristle lengths and different types of brushes.. after experience, you'll know which one is best for each situation.

Depending on your pup, different sections will need more attention than others. My girl gets bad tangles behind and on her ears, her face/cheeks, on top and bottoms of paws, and collar/harness area. I brush those areas more frequently than everything else.

Also, reward him/her with a treat after each brushing! At this point, right when we're finished brushing, my dog trots over to the closet and stares at me expecting her treat :)

Since orange didn't cover your budget concerns.

So far we have had our Sam for roughly 2 months. Excluding the initial purchase cost, and expenses to travel to pick him up, I've tallied our expenses specifically for him.
In the 2 months so far we have spent:
~$500 on training classes
~+$65/month on rent
~+15/wk for DIY baths (pet food express)
~$29 on Tag + Collar
$220 for standard shots
~$100 on non/standard shots and unexpected vet costs*
~$180 for a half decent vaccum
~$ 65 pet food
~$150 for a pet bath
~?? Dremel orange bought this.

----
Total: ~$1494

Costs associated with him but not easy to measure:
Additional hours running AC/Fans to keep him cool while we are at work away.

----
Things we already had/got free:**

• Leashes
  
• Crate(s)
  
• Toys
  
• Treats
  
• food Bowls
  
• chews
  
  ----
  
  Things we still expect to/have to buy worth mentioning:
  ~$425 High Powered Blow Dryer - absolute necessity if we want to bathe at home, using a hand dryer already takes 2+ hours to dry him and he's not even 1/2 his full size yet.
  
  ----
  
  Again, this also does not include the cost of the dog himself, or the costs of going to get him - I can tally those up too if you're interested but unless you go with the same breeder and a lot of circumstances land you in a similar situation it's basically worthless.
  
  There are some other items we bought but I won't include them as I don't see it as necessary items so much as quality of life for him/us, like elevated pet beds, and various training tools (clickers, paw targets, wobble boards, etc.). We also spend more than necessary on training classes - he is essentially in 3 redundant classes...and I actually think my numbers are low, again orange pays for these.
  
  Additionally, we have been very lucky so far. As of today, the puppy has not destroyed anything we already had...seriously if you have a nice couch, chairs, shoes, anything of that sort in your house just expect that you may have to replace it. Obviously this, and unexpected vet bills, can be mitigated a lot by serious dilligence, but given it's your first dog I do expect there will be some learning pains of things getting destroyed...especially in cold/wet winter months (at least you live in cali).
  
  
  For first year I'd plan on at least 500-1k in vet bills, and at least ~150/bi-monthly for training. You can get away with less for training, but it'll do you and the dog a world of good to keep him consistently in training at least for a few months. Plan for another 2-500 just to get the tools you need, crate(s), leashes, harnesses. Plan on spending easily at least $100 a month on food/preventatives/'pet rent' as he gets a bigger.
  
  Vet bills are REALLY REALLY REALLY hard to estimate. Getting a well breed pup can reduce this a lot, but there's still going to be lifestyle aspects. Puppy getting into the trash and getting chicken bones can set you back 1500$ if you need surgery for example. For standard exams and boosters, I'd plan probably 2-400 annually and have some way to drop a few thousand in an emergency situation. Even if you have pet insurance you typically have to have the money up front and then get reimbursed, Care Credit may be a good option for this.
  
  *hard to give solid numbers on this - since some of it got mixed in with other dogs vet bills...especially since our puppy gave our dog something.
  
  **Our apartment only has a shower - not suitable for bathing a Sammy...and eventually we plan to do baths at home instead of going to a place to do it.
  

Two is perfect. Going from one corgi to two wasn't really that bad. Three is too many and a big difference from two. I have friends that own 5+ though and I have no idea how they do it. I won't be getting a fourth corgi that's for sure!

You can guarantee a very spirited greeting each and every time you walk through the front door whether you're gone 5 minutes or 5 hours and they all love to help wake you up in the morning. They do get jealous of each other sometimes and it makes things interesting having two corgis that food guard.

Oh and for bathing more than one dog - invest in a Booster Bath. I furminate and bathe all my corgis in it now - saves my back and keeps them safe. Also I don't have to worry about the hair being inside the house.

Still, wouldn't trade it for anything.

I used a pro quality pin brush. Something smaller might be better for a small dog. Do not use any pressure, just stroke it along his coat. As you brush the pins unsnarl the fur and eventually get down to the skin. If you have patience and the pins on the brush are smooth so his skin doesn't get scratched he'll settle down and allow this.

You are never supposed to pull the brush/comb through but it's hard when you think the dog is going to start acting up at any second. Unless mats are causing pain calm down and just run the brush over his back, sides, his silky ears and try to get a stroke on the rear end and tail when he's relaxed. Tiny treats and try to be calm and praise good behavior and talk about how wonderfully silky his fur is and you know the drill.

One stroke today on back. when back is easy move to an ear, under the chin, the sides, the front legs and dare to get a swipe on the tail and rear end every once in a while. No pressure on brush, let it do the job.

Groom daily. Don't get it all done every day but over the week try to get him completely brushed out at least 3x. Damaged hair snarls but if brushed and never allowed to get matted you may get lucky. My stinker's coat resembles that of a LHD. He came here covered with mats but hasn't had any bad ones after they were cut out and frequent gentle grooming done. Well except for the mats caused by the nature he's always dragging in the house. He's got something sticky on his thigh I need to cut out now and there's sap on his toes I'm leaving alone.

Earthbath makes some awesome ear wipes that we have used for a while now. Stevie doesn't like getting her ears cleaned but it's way easier using a wipe on your finger than a swab or q-tips. You can pick them up from most good pet stores like Mud Bay or online. I highly recommend. Oh and they also have eye wipes. We actually use them on her whole face to keep her wrinkles clean.

ok, here you go:

• Metal Comb
  
• Pin Brush
  
• Detangler
  
• Clippers - I use these but Wahl is also really good
  
• Different Blades - if you get the Andis Clipper
  
• Metal comb attachments - get these and not the cheap plastic ones
  
• Grooming Table - This is optional but if you have a wiggly pup like I do, they're helpful. If you get this you should also get these
  
• Dremel for nails
  
  Now keep in mind that I plan on doing 95% of the grooming for the rest of my pups life. Since he's a standard poodle, a full groom would cost me anywhere from $75 to $120 (every 4 to 6 weeks) due to his size. So, for me, investing in all of the above will save me a lot of money in the long run.
  
  *Edit - If you go this route and get your own clippers - make sure you get some blade cleaner/oil, I use this

When you get a dog that requires grooming, you must not be "scared of hurting him". You won't hurt him if you use the right tools and you're patient. If you try brushing him and he wiggles around a little, that just means he's unsure. You aren't hurting him, promise. You have to brush your dog, and using that tool above, you are not using the right brush, at all. You would never need that type of brush for a cavapoo. Those brushes are designed for short hair dogs with undercoats-- that is a deshedding comb.

Your first step would be to take the dog to a professional groomer, and bite the bullet for the cost. Although typically unless your dog is a real handful, at least in my area the cost for a cavapoo ranges from $45.00 up. Depends on where you go, really. There is no way to get 'dreadlock' mats out of the coat save for shaving them away completely. To try to comb those out is extremely painful for the dog. From there, keep up with the brushing yourself. You will have to get this dog clipped if not every six weeks, every eight weeks, roughly. As you said this dog doesn't shed its hair, it just keeps growing. Even with regular maintenance you'll be looking at a little mophead eventually.

Please, take him to a groomer. Look up groomers in your area and find the one with the best reviews for being gentle and patient. Dematting even through shave downs can be stressful on the dog if they're very bad, although they're by far the gentlest option.

I am a groomer, and just as a tip for the future here are the tools I would use to take care of this pup.

• Firm Slicker Brush. You need something with longer bristles to get through his thicker coat, and something that won't bend as soon as you start brushing. When you brush, use gentle pressure so that you aren't scratching him.
  
• Soft Slicker Brush. For less intensive brushing around sensitive areas like the muzzle, ears, tail, paws, and belly.
  
• De-matting Comb. Used to maintain the coat before any bad mats occur. This comb has blades on it and cuts through clumps of hair gently. Do not use this if mats are down to the skin!
  
• Metal Comb. A wide-tooth and fine-tooth comb, used just as you would use a comb. Use the slicker first to kind of 'loosen' the coat a bit, then go through with the wide-toothed side, then the fine-toothed side.
  
  Make sure you're combing through his tail, ears, and muzzle as well as those are all prone to matting also. Check between his toes, as that area with dogs with a lot of hair like him also gets matted up quickly.
  
  Best of luck and I hope this helps.

I like to use a rake and a slicker. There are various deshedders out there, depends on which style you get. I found that mine (a cheap furminator knockoff) works better on my lab than my long haired malamute - she has too much fur, it fills up in one swipe when she's actively shedding. But I know lots of people that LOVE their Furminator though, so I think I'm in the minority, there!

More important than what you use, is how often you use it. As long as you're brushing him at least a couple times a week, his coat/skin will stay clean and healthy.

Ive got a couple, because I have no impulse control.

for difficult tangles I use cowboy magic.

For just normal brushing when theyre a LIL tangly, but nothing serious I mostly use this one. It smells like those strawberry candies old people sometimes have. It's the go to when theyve come in from rain or snow, or when theyve had an excessive amount of fun at the dog park.

and this one is what I generally use to brush em out after a bath/towel dry cause it makes them super soft.

Biggest thing in the winter is to make sure you keep their paw pads trimmed, and any extra side fluff trimmed down to foot size. The fluffy feet are like mud sponges.

I absolutely love our ZoomGroom!

Works great if the dogs are dry or wet and it's super easy to clean.

>First of all i would like to clarify that i am 14 years old, so i don't know if i am that capable of training my dogs

You're absolutely capable. There are actually quite a few teens who compete in sports like agility with their dogs. Do some searching on YouTube for inspiration!

>Second thing, one of my dogs has Down Syndrome, i think, i know it is a brain disorder and he is really dumb

Has this dog been actually medically diagnosed with a condition? Or is he just not very bright? Some dogs/breeds are scary smart and can out-think you, and other dogs aren't the brightest things out there, but all are capable of learning. Some tricks will just take much longer to teach.

>the other one releases a lot of fur

This isn't a training issue. Depending on the dog's fur length, get either a Furminator or a Zoom Groom. They have generic versions of these at Walmart. I like the Furminator for longer hair and really fluffy dogs, and the Zoom Groom for short haired dogs, though honestly just get any old brush, even a hair brush, and start working on it.

> one of them is peeing inside

http://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/housetraining

>And i'm afraid of walking alone with my dogs, i want everybody to go with me

It doesn't sound like you can rely on your family going with you. See if one of your parents will agree to schedule a time every day to go with you, or bring a friend or sibling. Walk one dog at a time if there are issues with pulling or lunging.

http://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/index

https://www.youtube.com/user/zakgeorge21

https://www.youtube.com/user/kikopup

For anyone considering doing this, here are my links and advice. I've been giving myself buzz cuts for about a year.

Combine certain information from the following how to's:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XFvG1xg6Wc
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEVHACtCJe8
  
• The instructions included with your clippers.
  
  Watch the videos before buying anything, to make sure you feel like you can do it. It's pretty easy, especially after the first two or three times. Buzz cuts are hard to mess up.
  
  To keep hair looking fresh, haircut professionals and beauty schools generally recommend cutting it once every 6-7 weeks. I have this scheduled as a recurring event in Google Calendar to remind me.
  
  The first time you cut your own hair, start with the clipper size that leaves the most hair. Each time you cut your hair, decrease the clipper size by one until you find the buzz cut length that's right for you. For example, I personally use #5 on the top and #4 on the sides and back. For my particular head, that's the shortest I can trim it before it starts looking bad.
  
  Slow, smooth, and steady motions are best. Patience will pay off.
  
  Equipment:
  
  
• Wahl 79524-2501 Chrome Pro 24-Piece Haircut Kit Good quality and (according to customer reviews) able to last decades, yet still affordable at $25. Clippers that are cheaper than this tend to break frequently (according to reviews of them), so they actually end up costing more in the long run.
  
• Clipper oil extends the useful life of the blades, if you oil after every two buzzcuts. Cheap bottle with enough oil to last you several years
  
• handheld mirror
  
• neck brush or a damp washcloth to get rid of the little hairs that stick to your forehead, neck, and shoulders.
  
• newspaper sheets (to cover sink and counter), plus a broom and dustpan.

I have this love glove which works really well. I vacuum a lot! Thankfully I have all tile floors so that helps cut down on it. I just got this new [Shark vacuum](http://www.target.com/p/shark-navigator-dlx-upright-vacuum-nv70/-/A-14500134#prodSlot=medium_1_0&term=shark navigator) and it's AWESOME. The pet hair attachment rules! Makes cleaning my couch so easy and it works really well on tile floors!

I've essentially accepted the fact that my life is pretty much filled with cat hair.

These are the clippers I use at work. They’re work horses that can run all day but a bit heavier than the more expensive 5-speeds. I know you want something around the $100 mark but you’ll be seeing a huge decrease in quality with cheap clippers. I personally wouldn’t go with anything cheaper than these. Remember to buy cool care spray since you said your clippers get hot. You can easily give a dog 3rd degree burns with a hot blade unless you’re monitoring the blade temp and spraying it to cool it

We tried furminators too, and they do work at removing shed hair. But they also work at removing unshed hair, and scratching up and cutting the hair that remains. The best thing we've found by far is an undercoat rake. Specifically this one: http://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_2_0

It is cheap, and works very well. It looks like it wouldn't do anything, but it gets shed undercoat out really well without damaging the overcoat. And all our shibas love it (unlike the furminator which was not popular). As soon as we pull it out there is a line of dogs and cats waiting to be brushed.

Unless the coat is matted beyond repair I wouldn't shave an aussie. If your dog has an unusually dense undercoat you may need to bring in more than a normal slicker brush to complete your grooming routine. A high velocity dryer does wonders to force out dead undercoat. A mars type stripper like this one: www.amazon.ca/Mars-Stainless-10-Blade-Stripper-Wooden/dp/B00061MPL0 will also help you.

I groom my aussies totally at least once a month when it's not show season, but I am a groomer. Ideally your dog should be bathed/dried/trimmed at least every 8 weeks and brushed in between. If you haven't taken your dog to a groomer before, I would strongly consider it. An aussie in good shape shouldn't cost more than $45-60 bucks to have done and sometimes you just need professional help!

Dematting just takes so much time which is why I charge a pretty penny for it. I wish there was a quick fix for it because I would be all over that 😂.

Before I found that mat breaker, I was using something like this and oh my gosh it took forever. I honestly wish I still had the same level of patience that younger, dumber me did.

Sounds like you're doing your research! Several of your questions are repeated multiple times, not sure if you had other questions instead or if that was just a glitch. As a corgi owner here are my thoughts:

1. Breaking it up as 1 hour morning, 1 hour evening would be better. It'll give them time to stretch their legs throughout the day instead of being antsy in one part of the day. Keep in mind that although they need a fair amount of exercise don't just jump to this as a puppy, gradually ramp up as they grow into adulthood. 1hour-1hour sounds about right for an adult corgi. 30min-30min would probably be more appropriate for say a 6 month old corgi (this is specifically talking about structured walks on pavement). You can (and should) add in other types of play such as fetch, flirt sticks, etc. I recommend looking into ideas for mental stimulation, that's a big one for corgis. Even if I tired my corgi out physically he'd still be antsy if he wasn't tired out mentally. Training tricks, hiding treats, snuffle mats, kongs, puzzle toys, etc. are all very helpful. Don't underestimate the stimulation/exhaustion of even 5-10 minutes of learning a new trick can provide.
   
   
2. For shedding I recommend getting a steel dog rake like this one for brushing out the undercoat. I then usually go over it with a steel comb like this one after I use the rake. Do this 1-2 times a week and it should keep the shedding fairly manageable.
   
   
3. The Whistle 3 is probably the most popular GPS tracker/app. It also tracks exercise activity. It attaches to the collar so of course if a thief removes the collar then it'll be useless. Keep in mind that any product that has a GPS tracker in it will also have some sort of monthly/yearly subscription fee. There was also another one in development posted to this subreddit recently that looked promising (can't remember the name).

This is our Bambi we rescued her about this time last year. Her favorite food is pizza, and she loves chasing cats. Bambi is so big, her toys usually don't last long, she can skin a tennis ball in like 2 minutes.

She really loves ball/rope toys rope toys are her favorite, but she destroys them too quickly, ones that have a ball on it, she will tend to keep it longer.

Our past doberman,Felix had one of these in blue and it held up extremely well.


Bambi would probably appreciate these eye wipes she gets a lot of eye gunk.

You should try an undercoat rake. I don't know how but somehow it only pulls up undercoat. This is the one I use for my GSD and it works great. Plus it won't irritate their skin or otherwise cause issues like other brushes can because the bristles/pins are so thick.

I'd actually recommend against a furminator in your case. Furminators do very well with shorter-haired double-coats like a lab. Berners do have double coats, but their outer "guard" coat is very long so the furminator wouldn't get down the to the undercoat very effectively.

My recommendation is a greyhound comb (all dog owners should have this, #1 tool in your arsenal) and an undercoat rake with curved teeth like this: http://www.amazon.com/Undercoat-Rake-DeSheddingTool-Fantastic-Grooming-High-Brush-Cat-Grooming-Grooming/dp/B00CMJZ4TE

Source: Used to be professional dog groomer, tried a lot of equipment, and asked a lot of questions from fellow groomers at several different locations.

This is the dryer I have (except mine is purple to match my grooming arm and tools)

I would say it's extremely comparable to the one I use at work (which is this one and a little pricier). It definitely doesn't have as much blast as the one I use at work but it only takes maybe ten minutes longer to dry my cockers than usual.

I don't use the rake on wet hair, personally, but you can. I don't think it would be very effective (and you shouldn't use a Furminator brush on damp hair, the company advises against anything except dry brushing).

Coat Kings and their knock offs can be used on wet hair effectively though.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Revgear-51104-Glove-Dog-Deodorizer/dp/B005VY3T6M/ref=sr_1_1


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

I bought these wipes from amazon, and they are so great. My cat is allll white and she was stressed out all day every day at the shelter and slept in the litter box :( but when I brought her home, I got those wipes and it helped both of us get her clean again. Over time he will also get white again as cats always clean themselves so I wouldn't worry too much about bathing him :)

We like these a lot- they are super gentle so it's not a big deal if you get close to the eye!

https://www.amazon.com/Earthbath-All-Natural-Specialty-Wipes/dp/B0018CIRVI/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1510245923&sr=1-2&keywords=eye+wipes&dpID=41fyCOlpp-L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Make sure the food you are feeding her is a decent brand. Check out dogfoodadvisor.com and compare your food with other options. Many "popular" food brands like purina or beneful have very little nutrients. If you are feeding her something that you feel is good for her, try adding in some supplements like Missing Link. There is some sort of deficiency in her diet that is keeping her from growing proper nails. My corg gets walks every day on pavement and I still have to grind her nails down once a week, if you need a comparison of proper growth.

For a short fix, you can use flour or cornstarch to stop the bleeding. I suggest buying some qwickstop from a local pet store, which is what we use in the grooming shop for quicked nails.

You can also buy soft claws for dogs, which is a plastic cover you can glue onto her nails to protect her nails. Soft Claws. You may have to train her to leave them alone.

Finally found a brush that significantly cuts down Bonnie's daily shed. This undercoat rake is the best thing since sliced bread. I also vacuumed today, and even after having Roomba-ed every day, this is how much fur I picked up. Gotta love my hairy beasts.

In other news, I'm just excitedly waiting for the greyhound adoption folks to get back to me. It's only been a week since I submitted foster applications to two different adoption organizations, and I know that reviewing applications takes time, but I am a little anxious that they might not think I'm a great fit. I did honestly write that I don't have a fenced yard, which worries me a bit, but both organizations stated that this is not a requirement to foster. Hopefully they get back to me soon; if I don't hear anything within the next couple of weeks, I might give them a call to see what's up.

Honestly, I don't do much of anything.
I brush her coat sporadically - when seasons change and in between if she gets particularly dirty/wet. I probably should brush weekly so I wouldn't have to vacuum quite as much. I bathe her 3-4 times a year, usually when she gets overly dirty from rolling in the dirt.
I almost never cut her hair, and clip her nails as needed - maybe once per season.
When I brush I use an undercoat brush like this and larger pin brush. I have a slicker brush too that I've thought about running through her coat, but haven't tried yet.

I'm always amazed at how clean she manages to keep herself. I frequently get asked if she had a bath recently, and it's almost never the case.

Thank you for the compliments :)

>Personally I loathe the Furminator

That's interesting to hear. I don't know much about it, outside of the fact is will get a lot of fur off of him. I only used based on info online so I'd interested to hear more if you don't mind.

Specific kinds of brushes you mentioned are talked about here:

• Rubold Pet Rake (rake)
  
• HaloVa Pet Comb (pins / bamboo bristles brush)
  
• Chris Christensen Oval Brush (pin brush)
  
  For a weekly routine at home, what would you recommend for day to day brushing (without bathing)?
  
  We plan to take him to the groomer for a bath (either by them or ourselves) every 4 - 8 weeks (once we figure out what works).

Yes! I recently bought this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Paw-Brothers-Extra-Slicker-Brush/dp/B014PFS2VE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=large+slicker+brush&qid=1556802844&s=gateway&sr=8-3

It's my new go-to brush. Gets lots of loose undercoat fur out, and does a much better job of taming the fur on his hips/by his fluffy butt than what I used before.

We also use a regular rake that I bought at a pet store on a whim like 5 years ago.

I still need help taming his mane, though, if anyone has any tips...

Wahl Balding. Great hair clipper and will work great for your beard. Get some clipper oil and some cutting guides and you're all set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B9SFQG/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007UT032Y/

hey, i just wanted to let you know that because of your comment I bought this brush https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQCWTVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it has been working very well with getting Buffy's mats out. surprisingly she actually enjoys being brushed with it. so thanks for the suggestion!

Do GSDs have double coats? Someone recommended this for huskies since the furminator shreds their fur: http://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY

Apparently this company is generally a safe bet though. I'd look and see if they have anything that seems ideal for you.

We use the JW Undercoat Rake for our German Shepherds. It works much better than the Furminator and they love it. You'll have to follow it with another tool to collect all the stray hair though.

Nope, just brushing it with something like this.

Many breeds of dogs have something called an undercoat. It's a thick downy layer that grows underneath the outside fur that's used for insulation.

Many will grow in a different one for summer than for winter so twice a year they shed the heck out of it and this is what happens.

I had a Newfoundland that I would brush like this every day for two weeks twice a year and get at least this much undercoat out each time.

(To be clear, I'd brush him other times, too. But during the sheds it was unbelievable how much fur would come out.)

You're not wrong, though. It's this undercoat that makes shaving these kinds of dogs problematic - the insulation, from cold or hot, doesn't work if the top coat and undercoat are shaved off.

This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/BioSilk-Therapy-Detangling-Protecting-Dogs/dp/B01330IKAA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542762139&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dog+detangler+spray&psc=1

​

I also use a good conditioner to help work the mats out in the bath. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-After-Bathe-Conditioner/dp/B00CRKLOHO/ref=lp_3020782011_1_12?srs=3020782011&ie=UTF8&qid=1542762378&sr=8-12

​

The only other suggestion I have would be to work at the mats little by little. My poodle gets mats behind her front paws very easily. I brush her every day, however, some days it is really bad. My poodle uses a similar type harness, but i've never had any mating issues with it. She also wears a collar with a velvet lining which seems to help.

^^^ We brush ours at least every other day when they're shedding hard, but usually twice or so per day. This grooming mit is awesome.

I use it twice a year and don’t have any problem with her coat. She looks amazing as usual. I wouldn’t use it everyday or anything. But definitely helps with the seasonal shedding. For every week brushing I use the Zoom Groom

1. Link
   
   
2. Try to use the same commands(words and hand gestures) used by most major seeing eye dog foundations, because they're near universal, and very easy to learn.
   
   
3. A Lily by any other name

We groom her at home using thinning shears. If you use regular scissors it will look choppy. We also use a spray conditioner called "The Stuff". It makes her fur so soft and easier to brush through. Amazon link to "The Stuff": The Stuff Dog Conditioner 16oz Ready to use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081XZWT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HGMuzb76RKS5S

I used to have a himalayan too and the best thing I found for getting through the hair is an undercoat rake called a Mars Coat King. I am on a tablet so all I can give is a moble link. This saved me so many hours in grooming my cat because it can go all the way through the hair. I never had to clip or cut out any mats again after I started using it.

We use this to cut through mats that are really tough but first we go over him with the safari slicker brush and then a fine tooth comb (literally!) lol

I just found a cheap one at my grocery store’s pet supplies section. It’s a pretty basic one, kinda like this:

Paw Brothers Extra Long Hard Pin Slicker Brush, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PFS2VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZxjqDbHHGG4R0

except a smaller size for my mini AD

I like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQCWTVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5CTDCbJ7QVAHW for my shih tzu. I spray on and work in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081XZWT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ETDCb9M8DPAQ or Tropiclean Tangle Remover, 16oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000634IUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NFTDCb0CWPPGB first. And if puppy is getting too fussy... Bzzzzzzzz go the tiny clippers. Cause it's better than a matt from a snowball.. snowballing.

You can get these things and clean his anus for him. I've never had a long-haired cat before, but I imagine it might be difficult for him to get back there with all the fur in the way? Those wipes are what I use for my cat who has seizures and ends up peeing on his back legs and they work great. I buy from a small, locally-owned store near me. I will say he wasn't a fan of the green tea fragrance and resists much less if I buy the unscented kind.

I use the Andis on my head monthly for the last several years after my cheapo died. Love it. Detachable blades, I use #4 on top and #7 on the sides. You probably don't need the ceramic style blade but I like them since they stay cooler longer.

Andis AGC2

There will be some staining to the fur during this time. You can do a thorough grooming/cleaning job after the heat is completely over.

While she is in heat, you can use a gentle shampoo to topically wash that area every couple of days as was suggested, or I use gentle pet wipes with no harsh irritants or chemicals like these. These are moist enough that you can clean small areas of fur by rubbing the fur between index finger and thumb with the wipe. I like to do this every day not so much because I'm concerned about the staining, but because it forces me to check the smell and consistency of the discharge to make sure all is normal.

Of course, searching for love glove is fine :)

It’s seasonal, so it won’t be this bad forever! I find this gets a good deal of that undercoat they shed this time of year out: undercoat rake I like it better than the Furminator because it doesn’t cut the fur at all.

Can't go wrong with this one... Seriously though Wahls is good.

I use a pair of glove dogs and it seems to really help.

Do you use a single or double? I've been thinking about trying a double one like this https://www.amazon.com/rake-deshedding-dematting-brush-comb/dp/B01M14GWS2/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1526135435&sr=1-5&keywords=double+long+tooth+rake

Anyone use a glove deodorizer?

http://www.amazon.com/Revgear-51104-Glove-Dog-Deodorizer/dp/B005VY3T6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397403737&sr=8-1&keywords=boxing+glove+deodorizer

I know newspaper should work well stuffed inside too.

As for wiping down the outside of gear, baby wipes?

Seems like similar products exist for the doggos https://www.amazon.com/Soft-Claws-Nail-X-Large-Natural/dp/B0006NE4Y4

I always used a rubber Zoom Groom on my bunny. Sometimes it seemed like I could make a whole 'nother rabbit from the fur he'd shed.

Do not use scissors. It is extremely unsafe. A cat's skin is very delicate and you can very easily cause a terrible puncture wound that will cost a lot of money to treat. Use a de-matting tool like this one or you could use an electric clipper if your cat will tolerate it. Let a groomer or vet do it if necessary.

Any undercoat rake will work just fine. It can have either one or multiple rows of prongs. They look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1495820988&sr=8-8&keywords=undercoat+rake

They have wide set prongs that are usually pretty thick and rounded on the ends. This tool loosens up the dead undercoat and is used prior to using the slicker brush.

Slicker brushes are just your regular wire brush like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Grooming-Ergonomic-Slicker-Brushes/dp/B000F285RI/ref=sr_1_19?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1495821089&sr=1-19&keywords=slicker+brush

Overall, this process will take longer than a Furminator--but remember, a Furminator is actually doing harm to your pet's coat.

JW, particularly for the undercoat rake. I've used the more expensive ones, but this is what gets the job done.

http://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY/ref=pd_bxgy_199_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1VBDBBFR82H4KWN5K34K

There are different hose attachments for dogs.

[Pet Wand] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4LM3SV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PyLPBbKRD76AV)

Booster Bath

Spray glove

Andis deshedding rake and Paw Brothers slicker brush, both on amazon.

Andis Premium Deshedding Tool, Pet Grooming (80490) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0WOMCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pkp5AbKQYTG0V

Paw Brothers Extra Long Hard Pin Slicker Brush, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PFS2VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Skp5AbC3D68K4


A photo of your dog might change my answer, but these are my usual deshedding tools.

Depending on the clippers/coat type, this could go pretty well or very bad. I bought a cheapish pair of dog clippers first and...it took forever. Miserable. Not worth it. I was about to just give up and go for professional grooming, but I bought this $150 pair of clippers on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UT3EYPA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hot knife through butter. Probably took 10% of the time that it took with the old clippers.

Edit: my dog is a walking rug (Golden Doodle), so this may not be necessary for less thick coats.

I use a combination of a slicker-type brush and a Kong Zoom Groom for my Akita/Jindo X who has the typical spitz undercoat.

​

I try to do this daily because I'm a bit OCD with fluff.

​

If I can find a force dryer on sale I might invest in one

So slippery! Give him nail covers.

https://www.amazon.com/Soft-Claws-Nail-X-Large-Natural/dp/B0006NE4Y4

This isn't the exact same brand I have but it's functionally similar:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PFS2VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jE-uCbX9RTFB2

I use my glove dogs. They absorb the moisture and keep them from smelling.

Revgear Glove Dog Deodorizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VY3T6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_0m-NwbJH4JBWQ

Try hockey/sports deodorizer sprays and moisture absorbers (bamboo charcoal, cedar chip, desiccant)

I used a double row undercoat rake. I read furminators aren't good for husky's guard coat.

I know you have a mixed breed. However, I have found this rescue has some great staff and articles. I have emailed them a few times over the year, and they have been willing to help.

http://newf-friends.blogspot.ca/p/resources.html

Here's a cheat sheet that one of their members wrote:
http://www.newfstock.ca/pdf/GROOMING-YOUR-NEWFOUNDLAND.pdf

My favourite tools:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HZBJ19W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Undercoat/dp/B0006349TY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483710947&sr=8-4&keywords=undercoat+rake+pets

https://www.amazon.ca/Master-Grooming-Tools-Rainbow-Greyhound/dp/B0055M11RY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483710996&sr=8-1&keywords=Greyhound+comb


On a personal note, my male regularly gets matts around his ears if I don't use a wide tooth comb or under coat rack to pull the dead fur out. My female is usually the back of rear legs. I have found with mine that if there's matts it's more because the old shedded fur didn't make it to the surface to be left our the house. I now use a daily 15 minute brush out during the week, and a 30 minute detailed brushing on the weekend. Usually while watching some tv.

What gloves is this happening to? And how are you causing it?

I've had a few pairs of gloves that gotten so wet from sweat on stupid hots days they are damp to the touch when I get home. Ridden some through storms... and never had a funk like you describe.

Are you taking steps to dry them out after you're done for the day? Or just wadding them up in a bin?

Add on - try some Glove Dogs? made for boxing glove but might suit
http://www.amazon.com/Revgear-51104-Glove-Dog-Deodorizer/dp/B005VY3T6M

Furminator or any other brushes that actually cut the undercoat are terrible for aussies or any other dog with an undercoat. It often causes the topcoat to grow back weirdly which will result in undercoat burn.

We use a rake such as: https://www.amazon.com/rake-deshedding-dematting-brush-comb/dp/B01M14GWS2 It works great and will pull out loose undercoat. You should use it more regularly when the pup is blowing coat.

I wipe down the inside with disinfectant after every session. I then stuff these things inside of them until the next session. Preventative maintenance is the only way to go. People will say there's various tricks, but once the stink is in the gloves you're not going to get it out.

May I recommend: http://www.amazon.com/Earthbath-Natural-Hypo-Allergenic-Fragrance-Free-Grooming/dp/B000WFIVSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375305335&sr=8-1&keywords=grooming+wipes

Less stress for the bunny.
Also, rabbits can get hypothermia even if it is not that cold out. They don't dry easily and it is very stressful for them to be wet and to be blowdried.