(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best dog training & behavior aids

>Once we got him home, he's become kind of lazy? He doesn't really play much or interact with us. We bought him some toys that he'll chew on for a moment and then ignores them. He seems to prefer laying in our bedroom alone than being in the living room with us.

Who knows what his situation was before you got him, but think of it this way. The puppy was born some place, was probably moved to another place after being born (a shelter) for who knows how long, uprooted again after being adopted, and given to a couple of strangers who have now taken them to yet another strange place. In it's short life it may have very little consistency it's had to rely on - so at this point - it's just bascially "unsure" of it's surroundings and where it's at. The perceived "lazyness" is more like your puppy being extremely "cautious". I wouldn't rule out a vet visit (seems you already are going to see one) based on some infections and conditions that spread in shelters (like, kennel cough for instance).

The good thing is, training starts NOW. The key is to take things slow the first few days and part of your training regiment at this point should be to slowly introducing your dog to your home. Getting it acquainted with the weird furniture, items, and rooms. Here is a good link about things you should have already done before getting the puppy home. You can review the list and hammer out any holes. Here is an article that talks about how to handle the first night home with your pup.

A few things to keep in mind, in relation to the "training" that should begin immediately with your pup:

• Don't let the dog have a run of the house, yet. Keep him in one room at a time and shut all the other rooms of the house. Let him poke around and sniff the rooms at first, but during the day and when you are gone do not let the dog have "the run" of the house.
  
  
• Do you have a name for him? If so - start working immediately on his name recognition. Call him by name constantly. When he looks at you, gives you his attention, or responds in some form to his name, praise and treats! Positive reinforcement will be everything in ensuring you reward the good behaviors you want to reproduce. Simply ignore the bad behaviors by giving no attention, petting, talking, or coddling immediately after. On contrary, when he does good things, treat and praise immediately after.
  
  
• Invest time and research into how to properly "clicker train". This will help immensely and is an extremely effective and succesful way to associate "good job" for your pet.
  
  
• Crate Training. VERY IMPORTANT FROM THE GET GO. Read up here on how to get this accomplished. Patience and consistency and building up to longer periods in the crate are critical for success. It will takes weeks, days, and even months before you dog will be completely comfortable for long periods but again, it's a process not an "event". Don't go too fast and remember to give your dog small chunks of time to be successful. If you ask too much too soon, you won't get the results you expect. Make crating a "fun" activity and a "good" thing by offering all sorts of good things any time he goes inside. Some people have even started off feeding pups in their crate at first so they understand "good = being in crate".
  
  
• Be sure to stock pile treats. Treats are going to be your way of rewarding the dog. In a sense, it's more deep than "reward" as it's truly the first form of communication you can give to your dog in order to tell him: "Good job." Be sure to read these tips on training a puppy and the best way to provide positive reinforcement.
  
  
• Peeing and Pooping. Your puppy is going to have to go a lot and may go inside your home/room/dwelling. It's going to be a fact of nature you'll have to accept right away, and don't get discouraged or scold your pet for eliminating. At this phase, you don't want to instill fear into your dog by yelling at him for peeing/pooping. He won't understand at this age that peeing/pooping inside is a "no-no". Invest in pee pads and housebreaking scent spray..
  
  
• Make sure after getting your pup used to things at your home you look into obedience and training classes. They are INVALUABLE and are extremely beneficial for not only your dog, but for yourself. A lot about owning a dog is reflecting on your leadership qualities and attentiveness to your dogs behaviors and needs. Training/Obedience classes gives you direct access to an expert who can spell these things out for you and your dog.
  
  >Also, eating. We were given a bag of ScienceDiet for puppies that ran out sooner than we expected. The Petco was closed that night, so we googled options and came out with a chicken-rice blend that he wolfed down. Now he's not eating the ScienceDiet we managed to procure the next day. Did we ruin his training by switching meals? Or is it possible that he's just not hungry? He hasn't eaten once today.
  
  Again, a lack of appetite could be a result of the added stress from being relocated to it's new home. Just make sure you have plenty of water for him to drink and always give him food at scheduled times at first, even if he eats it or not. A couple schools of thought about feeding, but I prefer to feed my dog at scheduled times, 3 times a day (GSD/Rottweilier, prone to bloat so I spread out meals). In this fashion, you can control the, as a puppy, many potty breaks your dog will need at first. Bladder control is going to be something you have to build your dog up to - it won't be able to hold it at first and prepare for accidents. Controlling the feeding will allow you to eventually notice how long and when your dog needs to poop. It will also allow you to put it on a schedule so that it doesn't need to poop in the middle of the day or times when you may be gone.
  
  People have recommended the "FoodAdvisor" website which I strongly suggest. Read up on different grain-free foods that are in your budget. There are lots of great foods for your dog in lots of different price ranges, you just have to do some digging for them. Using FoodAdvisors "Most Recommended" list would be a good start. I feed my GSD/Rottie Blue Buffalo Wilderness - Chicken & Rice recipe. It's about $50 for a 24LB bag and that lasts just about a month or a bit under.

Omg. THAT FACE! She's gorgeous!

Other commenter covered what I came to say mostly.

My dog has minor separation and confinement anxieties as well. He does well now left loose. I chose not to crate train him even though I maybe should. He likes his crate as a den with the door open, and I'm okay to leave it at that. I don't condone not crate training, it's a really useful tool to have, but I can say do what's best for you. You may wish to re crate train as though she were a pup starting from scratch and only when you are home at first.

Anyways, some other things that have helped me include D.A.P. spray which works well on my boy. I spritz some in the living room and around his crate before I leave. I film him with my laptop webcam, and he's calmer and calmer sooner with it than without. I also leave my computer playing some soft classical to help drown out or distract from outside noises or loud footsteps our landlord makes (we share a wall).

Desensitizing her to your departure cues is a great idea! And you should definitely keep up the habit of acting like you're getting ready, grabbing keys, etc and then settling in for some tv.

Honest answer? Clicker training.

Here are the steps:

1. Find a treat your cat loves more than anything else, and something small enough that your cat can eat it in a second. My cats love cooked ground beef, but cheese, salmon, lunch meat and certain treats are all good choices.
   
2. Get a training clicker like this (or learn to make the noise)
   
3. For a week or two, click then give your cat a treat over and over again. You're teaching your cat to bridge the noise with a treat coming.
   
4. Then start clicking your cat when he does something you like. It's a message saying "I'm about to give you a treat for what you're currently doing".
   
5. Find ways to get your cat to do things. Waving a treat above their head to get them to stand, waving a toy on a target to hit it on cue, etc. As they start getting things in broad strokes, you can hone in on what you want them to do by choosing what you click.
   
   If you want more info, read Don't Shoot The Dog. It's the same idea. The biggest difference is that your cats attention span is probably much shorter than a dog's, so you got maybe 15-20 minutes when training them before they get bored. You just need to keep doing it every day.

A little unconventional but I think the best thing I bought for our current puppy is this training treat pouch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015TTM1OE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1468946702&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dog+training+pouch&dpPl=1&dpID=51LuBUDcPqL&ref=plSrch

We also have two rubber Kong toys for peanut butter dispensing, one high value tug toy (Leerburg leather treat pouch tug), PlanetDog's Woodchuck and a flirt pole, which is a great tool if you have a dog with prey drive! Dog food really depends on local availability to me - but after trying out a couple of brands, we keep coming back to Costco's grain free food. Our adult Golden can eat whatever but Nature's Domain is the only thing that gives our puppy normal stool.

Hi! That cage looks like a good size for two degus but my only concern would be the shelves - are they plastic? It's better to go for metal or wood because they chew everything and plastic may not be best for them! I will link the cage that we bought for the two degus we adopted - they love it and it's a great size!

Yaheetech 3 Tiers Large Bird Cage Parrot Cage Aviary for Chinchilla Degu Rats Cage with Perch Stand and Wheels https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01C5K475G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K6eUCbSDD00XA

Hope this helps

I have discovered that I am getting really good at (and enjoy) dog training! I have trained both my own husky and mine and my roommate's foster German Shepherd. I would like to take some classes and turn this into a hobby or job. A few clickers would be a great way to start out! I have some friends who have recently adopted dogs, and I could try the clicker out on my dogs and their dogs!

Thanks for the contest! I want to try something new.

http://www.amazon.com/Button-Pet-Training-Clickers-click/dp/B003BK9XPY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2Z8QXC2F6RJMY&coliid=IZZNY0IAP1FV

I would suggest going for a working dog - collie, springer spaniel, german shepherd, lab etc if you're very active. They can drive you up the wall if they don't get out much OR their brains aren't challenged regularly. You need to keep in mind what that working breed has been trained to do over the centuries, herd, guard, sniff out stuff etc and train/walk them with that in mind. If you have a springer spaniel and try training it whilst there are critters around in the undergrowth you'll have problems. Border Collies are sight dogs so again, you're going to set the dog up to fail if you try and train them somewhere sheep or similar are about.

The trendy breeds I'd advise against such as mentioned elsewhere bulldogs and pugs as their breathing is awful due to their shite selective breeding/eugenics.

I was told about a way of training recall by a hunting dog trainer. He said buy one of these 210.5 dog whistles.

When the puppy is young and ready to go on walks off lead then you whistle three times and place the puppies food down as it arrives to investigate. The following day do the same thing. Then on the third day take the food out to the park with the puppy when it's run off to investigate something blow three times again and give it the food when it arrives. That... surprisingly was all it took to train mine to recall to the whistle. This is what you use in emergencies and need the animal to return immediately.

For general training you need a [Clicker](
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Clicker-Puppy-Training-Guide/dp/B000QRF336/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1491942493&sr=8-6&keywords=dog+clicker)

a [Treat Bag](
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Coachies-TCB-Training-Treat-Bag/dp/B004Y3QHOC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491942633&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+treat+bag)

and some
Books, [Don't Shoot the Dog](
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dont-Shoot-Dog-Teaching-Training/dp/1860542387/ref=sr_1_7?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491942695&sr=1-7&keywords=clicker+training+for+dogs), [Clicker Training for Dogs](
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clicker-Training-Dogs-Positive-reinforcement-x/dp/1860542824/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491942769&sr=1-3&keywords=Karen+Pryor)

Positive reinforcement works great. Take a read of these and take small steps and you'll have a fantastic dog whatever breed you choose.

Good luck.

Karma inducing images of my dog on a recent winter barn camp.

In general, try one cup of kibble for every twenty pounds of dog.

The mounting could be a lot of things. For dogs who know each other already, it's often a form of play. In this case, it could be that the shepherd is nervous and that's how he relieves stress (think of chewing your nails, it's the same idea). Dogs hump of a LOT of different reasons. On rare occasions it is a dominance thing, but as long as the lab doesn't mind, I wouldn't worry too much. Is the shepherd fixed?

Definitely keep them separated if they have to be alone. If they get into a scuffle, don't reach in to try to break it up. You're very likely to get bit that way. Try filling a spray bottle with water and squirting them if they start to scuffle. It's often enough to break up a fight. You might also want to get a few of these. Even if you don't keep the shepherd, this is always a good thing to carry around. Dogs hate the smell, and combined with the surprise of it, it usually makes them back right down. And it doesn't hurt them, like mace does.

I would suggest that you bring the dog to your vet ASAP, just to get them checked out and scanned for a microchip. Animal shelters can usually scan for a chip, too, but I don't know if they would insist on taking the dog.

Anyway, good luck! I love shepherds.

I've looked up some of the resources for you that I have found helpful in the past and can give you a better idea of how to clicker train your cat. It takes a lot of patience and needing to pair the behavior you're desiring with the sound of the click and then the treat. This helps kitty know that the reward is contingent on the behavior.

https://www.adventurecats.org/backcountry-basics/how-to-clicker-train-a-cat/
http://www.thejacksongalaxyproject.org/2018-Cat-Pawsitive-Clicker-Training-Basics-Handout-FINAL.pdf
https://www.clickertraining.com/cat-training


Some examples of clickers you can purchase off of Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Karen-Pryor-Clicker-Training-Terry/dp/B00CDRJ3FG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Button-Pet-Training-Clickers-click/dp/B003BK9XPY/ref=pd_sim_199_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003BK9XPY&pd_rd_r=6ace0485-9212-4434-ae64-506ffd2a37ab&pd_rd_w=LiNJD&pd_rd_wg=Syl0D&pf_rd_p=5c130

The bleeding hearts in this thread apparently don't know exactly what it's like having a barking dog live next to them 24/7.

As someone that has lived next to two barking dogs and a hugely irresponsible dog owner for the last ten years, it would be a perfect world in which we could put them down with impunity.

It's not so much the dog's barking that drives one up the wall, it's the incomprehensibly selfish adult that owns them. Put them down instead and rehome the dogs?

Anyhow, now that's out of the way. Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESMUWS6

I've had mixed to positive success with it. Surely enough to buy it and test it out. Perhaps buy two.

I was having that issue. Seemed like a great reward for spending 90 minutes or more at a time deforesting myself. Then I started aggressively exfoliating, and it mostly cleared up pretty quickly.

You're not wrong but you could be nicer about it.

OP, be very careful with those relays. Don't leave whatever circuit you are making unattended, or consider using something safer like this: https://www.amazon.com/POWERSWITCHTAIL-COM-PowerSwitch-Tail-II/dp/B00B888VHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479919667&sr=8-1&keywords=power+switch+tail#customerReviews

Another method to handle such issues is by carying Spray Shield. It is a citronella based spray that shocks dogs systems long enough for you to gain control of the situation. I carry this as well as another least with me (for strays) on my walks. Luckily I have yet yo be required to use it, but I hear a lot of good things from the rescues I deal with (we foster) and my wife hears good things from her customers (she works at a pet goods store).

They make anti-bark speakers shaped like bird houses and things like that. I can't speak to how humane or effective it is, but it might work for you. I own a 'dog whistle' which is really just a hand held remote that emits the same dog whistle noise, much like the bird house things, it get's the dog's attention for sure, but I don't know if it would get the dog to stop barking.

Example:
http://www.amazon.com/DOGTEK-Sonic-Control-Outdoor-Indoor/dp/B00ESMUWS6

Co-sign the dog hammock. We went with this one on Amazon and we’re pleasantly surprised. Keeps all dirt/sand away from the floor areas (although we have weathertech already) and has the ability to unzip one side for a single passenger.

We rarely have passengers so it works great for us!

Also, this treat bag is great. Holds poop bags, treats, and the mesh pocket can hold a tennis ball. My boy loves the squeaky tennis balls that KONG makes :)

Reward him for even the slightest interest or movement towards the treat in your hand. If you're still seeing that he's hesitant then you can try a couple of different things to lure him:

• A Click Stick with pb or soft treats smushed on the end
  
  
• A wooden spoon with a glob of pb on the end
  
  
• A lean lix style treat
  
  
• a small jar (baby food jars are perfect) with frozen wet food in it

Look for biothane long lines. Biothane is waterproof, easy to clean (just wipe it down with a wet rag), doesn't tangle, and is relatively lightweight.

You can also get a simple tie out stake, like this to anchor the leash to the ground. I'd only recommend something like that if you're car camping, though. Too much unnecessary weight to drag around if you're backpacking.

Keep in mind, I'm not an esthetician! This is just what I've learned getting waxes myself.

Is your girlfriend getting ingrowns from waxing or shaving? If she is really having problems with it, she should go to a professional who will help her out. Estheticians are professionals (usually at spas or salons) who work with skincare (like facials) and hair removal (like waxing).

Most legitimate spas will do a consultation before waxing. Some even offer free skincare consultations for facials. There is a good chance if she calls around, and mentions her problem specifically, an esthetician will be willing to book her for a consultation and recommend services/products to help with her ingrowns. Just be specific about the reason, and I'm sure someone will be willing to help.

Otherwise, the ladies at /r/skincareaddiction probably know more about this stuff than I do!

Exfoliating is basically removing the top layer of dead skin cells. You can actually do it on your face, legs, bikini area, pretty much anywhere, and it will leave your skin softer and smoother. In the case of post-waxing, or really just in general, it gives the new-growing hair a chance to break through the surface of the skin. Spas will sometimes give you exfoliating gloves to use after your appointment.

But yeah, the scarring sucks. :( I regret trying to get out deep ingrown hairs myself. For now I'm just leaving them alone until I can get to an esthetician because they are just way too deep.

EDIT: I did a quick search for "ingrown hairs" on that subreddit, here's one example of what they recommend over there.

In my expert dog opinion whistles are best for dogs with dodgy recall. They tune out from human voices it seems, but a whistle gets their attention. We use this one

Start in an enclosed space, 2 short sharp toots when he comes back give him a treat. Practice outdoors in quite areas always give a treat then he'll associate the whistle with a treat. Depends if he's food driven though, some aren't as greedy as ours 😂. Takes a bit of practice. Ours stops dead in her tracks now when whistled 🎇

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002XKIV6

I recommend using this stuff rather than pepper spray. It's very effective yet painless to the dog, and painless if it blows back in your face. I swear by it.

My Visla is 7 months old and loves to run, she is off leash trained but I do use a training collar. I don't shock her, just use the vibrate or the beeper and she comes right back to me. I was surprised how easy it was to train her to be off collar, she will chase anything that runs away but a beep from the collar and she comes right back.

http://www.amazon.com/Petrainer-PET998DRB1-Rechargeable-Rainproof-Electronic/dp/B00W6UVROK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Thanks. I lived in Dallas for 18 years and Denton for 4. What struck me there was how many people had dogs they just left in their backyards. No walks, no love, no respite from the heat. Why own dogs in the first place?? Grr.

I hope your dad stays safe. Someone else commented that spray shield works well.

While it won't help with catching the people, I've a friend that used something like this with fair success.
http://www.amazon.com/Lentek-Super-Bark-Training-Device/dp/B000N2N9DU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1377033498&sr=8-6&keywords=anti+barking+device

I believe this is the Lexol most people use. I personally use the Saphir, and no it's definitely not drastic, they make some of the best rated shoe care products going.

a Kong or an activity ball filled with treats to keep him busy so he doesn't notice you leave, just try giving it to him and then just go outside and wait, see if he starts howling, otherwise you can try pheromone sprays, it's these sprays that have the same pheromones that their mothers have and it makes puppies feel safer and more comfortable.
http://www.amazon.com/D-A-P-Appeasing-Pheromone-Spray-60ml/dp/B00076NS1U

I moved shops recently and wanted to have piped dust collection so I started working on that. Somewhere while watching some videos I saw several where people had blast gates that switched the DC on and off and I was like that's awesome but they didn't go into much detail. I finally accidentally found one that gave a better idea of what products they used and bought the parts, tested it out and implemented it. It works great.

To turn on the collector I just open a blast gate. To turn off the collector I close the blast gate. Pretty simple and it makes it very hard to forget to close a blast gate and use another tool with reduced suction.

Short video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59u5zHttUn4

The parts I used:

• PowerSwitchTail II
  
• Micro switches
  
• 20/2 bell wire
  
  Edit: Oh and of all the methods I used to cut the DWV piping (bandsaw for shorter pieces and cleaning up, sawzall with a crappy miterbox-style 90 cutting guide and a handsaw in the same guide) the handsaw I think was the easiest to get a nice cut.

It can be done.

To turn a fan on and off, use a relay. This allows the low voltage that the Pi can produce to control an electromagnetic switch that controls a much higher voltage, which the fan works off of. I assume you mean a 115V or 230V desk fan that plugs into the wall. (a relay board will work with DC-driven fans as well, and be safer with lower DC voltages.) If you haven't worked with exposed line-level voltages or aren't comfortable doing so again, use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/POWERSWITCHTAIL-COM-PowerSwitch-Tail-II/dp/B00B888VHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392872852&sr=8-1&keywords=power+tail

Spring return extendable leads aren't good either - https://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2014/06/11/retractable-dog-leash.aspx I use a training lead and loop it in my hand I can control how far it goes, far easier than an extendable, a simple loop around my finger provides a friction hold and I can bring the lead in better and faster than the pull and retract, pull and retract of an extendable. - Long training lead here --> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004W78JLO/

Consider using a Powerswitch tail 2 to safely take care of the high voltage work. It's rated for 15A resistive loads, so you shouldn't normally be switching your 12A inductive load with it. But as a power enabling circuit it should be adequate.

Stay away from those Chinese relay boards unless you know what you are doing.

This is the one that I bought a long time ago. It is no longer available. I have bought them since. Amazon is not showing what I have bought since.

Lentek Super Bark Free Dog Training Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N2N9DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QHC4Cb8B3E3WX

This is how i've heard it explained, i've been alive 27 years never been in a car accident, but i still wear my seat belt. We take our dog camping to we just bring one of these with us and a 25 yard lead and harness that way she can play around the camp ground with us but i can still pull her in quickly/ know where she is if i need to. We also just have a big leash for when we leave camp. I know i sound like an asshole but i've had my girlfriend come home crying to many times from dogs that had to be put to sleep or didn't make it when they should be living happy lives with their owners.

Yeah sure :-) I just got it off Amazon, its:

Yaheetech 3 Tiers Large Bird Cage Parrot Cage https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01C5K475G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nqUhDbF2TV1F5

I've heard Citronella spray is very effective for this purpose. With pepper spray, if you misread the wind/breeze at all, you can fairly easily end up spraying yourself and/or your dog. I'd look into that over the pepper spray personally.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Sprayshield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray/dp/B0009YSB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473864179&sr=8-1&keywords=citronella+spray+dogs

So which is do I actually need, Lexol, bick4, saphire renoveteur (sound a little bit drastic for a conditioner :s ).
I want something that doesn't mess with the color. What do I pick, also I would like something that is fairly cheap.

I also found this: https://www.amazon.de/B-E-Bienenwachs-Lederpflege-Balsam-500-ml/dp/B001UQWDKS/ref=sr_1_15?s=motorcycles&ie=UTF8&qid=1499099573&sr=8-15&keywords=Lexol
But don't know if this is any good

lol I recently bought clickers on Amazon for this express purpose. Haven't tested them out yet, but will be excited to do so soon!

https://www.amazon.com/EcoCity-Upgrade-Version-Training-Clicker/dp/B071NTVXN2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1542761417&sr=1-4&keywords=DOG+CLICKER

To begin with, I would start the relaxation protocol. This protocol will help the pup relax in both good and bad situations. I would also look into picking up the book Controlled Unleashed and practicing LAt (look At That). You should also practice emergency u-turns. You should find a local R+ trainer to help you with the basics.

You need to do everything you can to avoid nasty interactions, every bad interaction will compound on previous interactions. It is our job to protect our dogs. These bad experiences breaks a trust "my human is not going to protect me, so I need to take matters into my own hands". Leash reactivity generally grows from targeting 1 dog, then a type or breed of dogs, eventually evolving to EVERY visible dog within 1/4+ mile.

One option if the other dog is out of control, carry an umbrella to scare off the other dog, just make sure that your dog is OK with the umbrella flapping, you can accomplish this through desensitization and counter conditioning. There is also a product called Spray Shield which is a citronella based product to ward off any unleashed dogs. Most communities have leash laws, I would consider telling the owner of the other dog that I will be calling the police on them if they continue to let their dog off leash. There is a reason communities have leash laws and examples like this are a perfect example of why.

I've been looking into training cats, I just bought a book and a Click Stick. I would love to train other animals, I just don't have the time right now because of school and such.

What other animals did you have in mind?

It doesn't matter, my animal trainer wife (super legit, she does research with it) just clicks her tongue when she doesn't have a clicker. Just takes them a sec to realize

there's a few kinds of clickers out there and the only difference between them is how the trainer wants to use them, like this one with a target, which we've totally used to get our bengal to jump through hoops

don't ever let lack of perfect equipment or "training treats" stop you!

I used these things. Click it in the mic when you botch a line, and it leaves two big peaks on the waveform that are very easily identified. Makes it easy to track down your edits.

I haven't used this, but have a friend who says it worked for their similar situation (though barking, now howling):

https://www.amazon.ca/DOGTEK-BirdHouse-Control-Outdoor-Indoor/dp/B00ESMUWS6

We call it a hammock, our dogs call it heaven, amazon calls it very cheap and reliable!

EVOest Dog Car Seat Cover for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077J62KSM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Get a 20-30 foot long line and leave it attached to her while she does her thing. When you're ready to leave it will be very easy to catch her if she tries to run from you. This will quell the reinforcement of the "game" she plays when you try to catch her. Eventually she might stop doing the behavior if it goes unrewarded long enough, but there's no guarantee with that. If you truly want to solve the problem you will have to work on her recall.

Wow, so much bad advice here.

Just get this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/SprayShield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray-Belt/dp/B0002XKIV6 My wife used to work at an animal shelter and they used this stuff all the time. Safest way to break up a fight.

I am here to second your comment.

[This one is $30 and shaped like a birdhouse!](http://www.amazon.com/DOGTEK-BirdHouse-Control-Outdoor-Indoor/dp/B00ESMUWS6/ref=sr_1_sc_3?
ie=UTF8&qid=1407684695&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=bark+ultrasonicoutoor)

I had some neighbors who pulled the exact same thing with their dogs. A friend lent me a similar device, the barking stopped in 2 hours, the neighbors moved two months later. They could not figure out what was wrong with their precious little fluffies! (They threatened me when I used the normal approach- polite talking).

/r/pettyrevenge?

There are ways to make a dog let go. Choke it. Also there is such a thing as dog mace. It is usually citronella based and very effective against most dogs (aim for the nose). I've had a lot of experience using it to break up dog fights. Much better than trying to pull them apart.

You are actually right. There are only a few brands available on Canada Amazon, with not so good reviews. Here is one to give a shot (they make popular pee pads, so I think these might work):

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001OVBAQW

I've had a ton of fun with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6UVROK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's something you might try. I know this has worked for a friend before. You just put this up in a tree or something pointed towards your neighbors back yard. Just a thought.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ESMUWS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425834033&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=dog+barking+control+devices&dpPl=1&dpID=41B6eCGcRIL&ref=plSrch

I've had very good results with this product.

Gently, place this near the edge of their fence. It works.

Yes. Always. https://www.amazon.com/SprayShield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray-Belt/dp/B0002XKIV6

I've heard of these working on VIN a few times. Mixed reviews on amazon though but it's worth a shot I reckon.

from what you've described, looks like ingrown hairs. I suffer from the same. if you have curly neck hair sometimes the hairs grow out and then curl back under the skin. or if the hair is cut short enough, it curls before it even protrudes from the skin. try not to shave too close on your neck, and especially in the areas where you tend to get ingrowns (I get them in very specific spots) try not to pull your skin to get extra close. as long as you're presentable, you're fine.

another thing that helped me is using a kese or an exfoliating glove. something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Kelebek-Turkish-Bathstore-Kese-Exfoliating/dp/B00DSVY57W

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Therapeutics-Hydro-Exfoliating-Gloves/dp/B00BS7AB08

I use these in the shower before and after shaving (I shower before shaving, then at night before bed when showering, I use the glove/kese again on my neck). I guess I could have said I use it every time I shower :). it helps to keep my pores open and prevents the hair from curling back in under the skin.

what other people have said is also helpful (don't shave ATG, moisturize, try different blades, low pressure on razor, shower before shaving, mapping, etc)

​

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Something like this

I just bought four clickers so I'd always have one easily available and all the clickers would have consistent sound

No idea how well these things work, but it may be worth a try....

Spray Shield saved my little guy just the other day from on off leash dog.

Get some. Carry it. It works. Seriously.

Here it is! I hope that it helps! It has a shock setting I just choose not to use it. We stick to the beep and vibration settings.

Petrainer Rechargeable and Rainproof 330 yd Remote Dog Training Collar with Beep, Vibration and Shock Electronic Electric Collar https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00W6UVROK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wfn6AbMZ4BWTC

They make citronella based products, generally referred to as "shield sprays." Definitely not as intense as pepper spry but allegedly gets the job done.

http://www.amazon.com/SprayShield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray-Belt/dp/B0002XKIV6

[Cyber Monday] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W6UVROK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_5dzywbCHDJ1X5) has deals on everything you need to help him out!

Edit: No coffee yet, forgot how to link properly.

Own this, it works. I use it one/two days a month, and the neighbor’s dog will completely stop barking for at least a few weeks. It has to be pretty close to the dog for both the sensor and speaker to function accurately. https://www.amazon.com/DOGTEK-Sonic-Control-Outdoor-Indoor/dp/B00ESMUWS6

It's one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESMUWS6

You just kinda set it up and let it do its thing. My neighbors, when they do have their dogs out late, give them a collar that I believe shocks them when they bark. They go around growling which I can still hear to a lesser degree but I find that less of a humane solution than the birdhouse

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W6UVROK?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

It’s called pet trainer. That’s link for amazon.

This. Calling animal control will probably get the person fined, so they will (hopefully) keep them on a leash, or get a fence.

Also This is a great spray that won't make them attack you, or hurt them, but it will make them back off. (Plus it's only $10 so great for a budget)

I haven't and I hope I don't have to. But I bought a citronella spray off Amazon when my friend her little dog got attacked by another dog recently. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-SprayShield-Deterrent-Citronella-Yourself/dp/B0009YSB9O/

Give the citronella spray a try, my dad is animal control and gave me a can to use when running (neighbors dogs try nipping at my ankles). Its harmless to the dogs but it should shut them up. This is the same type he gave me

NTA. But as a preemptive measure, you may want to check into getting some of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ESMUWS6

perhaps arrange HUMAN DEVICE in a tesseract array so {barking} causes resonance in only d̺̺̯̞͖͠o͕̫̹g͓ detectable dimensionsss

• Find a local well-known dog obedience class.
  
  
• Ultrasonic Dog Bark Control.
  
  
• Bark collar.

Try one of these maybe? Has been posted on Reddit before and people have said they work: https://www.amazon.com/DOGTEK-Sonic-Control-Outdoor-Indoor/dp/B00ESMUWS6

Tværtimod. Jeg har faktisk købt sådan to her til mine børn, specifikt for at vænne dem af med at dabbe!

Also this

https://smile.amazon.com/Petrainer-PET998DRB1-Rechargeable-Rainproof-Electronic/dp/B00W6UVROK?ie=UTF8&keywords=shock%20collar&qid=1480470482&ref_=sr_1_3&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-3

Here you go

https://www.amazon.ca/SprayShield-ANIMAL-DETERRENT-Citronella-Spray/dp/B0002XKIV6

https://www.amazon.com/DOGTEK-Sonic-Control-Outdoor-Indoor/dp/B00ESMUWS6

DOGTEK Sonic BirdHouse Bark Control Outdoor/Indoor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESMUWS6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_BDCbvb175EBPS

carry and use http://www.amazon.com/Petsafe-Sprayshield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray/dp/B0009YSB9O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1427780603&sr=8-5&keywords=pet+repellent+spray

[this](http://www.amazon.com/Earth-Therapeutics-Hydro-Exfoliating-Gloves/dp/B00BS7AB08] is what I mentioned. You may be able to find them cheaper but it's the first link I saw.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W6UVROK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Get a training clicker. Started when my cat was young, now it doesn't like treats but will still come when I use the clicker.

The simplest (and possibly safest) answer is to get one of these PowerSwitch Tail II. It has a few screw terminals that you can wire directly to your arduino.

If you want something more complex and capable, I would look up relays. Just be aware that you are dealing with wall circuits could be dangerous.

I've taken to carrying citronella spray in my bait bag because I come across so many off leash tiny dogs. It doesn't physically hurt them, but they don't like it and they get out of the street and run back to their yards. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Sprayshield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray/dp/B0009YSB9O

While you're working on the separation anxiety, you can address the barking behavior itself with a training tool.

https://www.amazon.com/DOGTEK-Sonic-Control-Outdoor-Indoor/dp/B00ESMUWS6

I carry a citronella spray. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YSB9O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_9IICwbENB9C8B

But 8 times out of ten if I firmly and loudly command the other dog to stop and "go home", they do.

You might want to start carrying Spray Shield. It won't hurt the dog but is supposed to stop them. Maybe carry real pepper spray as a back up, just in case.

Are you walking them in your apartment complex, or in a neighborhood? If it's happening in the complex you can report them to the office or whoever's in charge there.

My dog barks at noises in the apartment while I'm at work causing complaints of course. I bought this that I just turn on while I'm at work. Been doing it for about a year now and haven't had a complaint since. It emits a sound only dogs can hear when there is a loud enough noise (bark) to set it off. You could just turn it on at bed time!
http://www.amazon.com/DOGTEK-Sonic-Control-Outdoor-Indoor/dp/B00ESMUWS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457364582&sr=8-1&keywords=bark+deterrent

Before my electric bill came today I was thinking of the following semi-off grid setup:


-----[solar system]-----

solar panel(s)

charge controller

battery(s)


-----[mining rig]-----

Raspberry Pi

Zeusminer Blizzard


-----[electrical stuff]-----

Samlex power supply


PowerSwitch Tail II relay


Raspberry Pi lamp timer circuit


buck converter



-----[The Plan]-----

Plug the Samlex into the PowerSwitch-Tail and PowerSwitch-Tail into wall. Hook the solar system battery up to the Samlex's battery backup terminals. Hook the Blizzard and Raspberry Pi up to the Samlex's 12v output (use buck converter to step the 12v down to 5v for the Pi). Finally, use a cron job on the Raspberry Pi to control the PowerSwitch-Tail. In the morning the Pi would use the 'lamp timer' circuit to open the PowerSwitch-Tail causing the Samlex to draw power from the solar system battery. During the night the Pi would close the PowerSwitch-Tail causing the Samlex to draw power from the grid. The Pi would also restart cgminer to mine to different addresses depending on which power source was being used. I would setup the cron job based on the capacity of the solar system. More panels and batteries would mean the system would run longer off of the solar system before switching back over to grid power. I think it would have worked, but not sure. I'm pretty new at this stuff.

edit: formatting

I have this. It worked for my dog nearly instantly. He was barking constantly while I was at work (evening job), driving my neighbors in my apartment building crazy. Some of the reviewers hang it on their trees outside or something. Some dogs don't care and keep barking, or they don't put it together that bark = unpleasant noise.

Also, there are [devices] (http://www.amazon.com/DOGTEK-BirdHouse-Control-Outdoor-Indoor/dp/B00ESMUWS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427613631&sr=8-2&keywords=ultrasonic+bird+house+bark+stop) that you can put in your yard that will emit the ultrasonic warning if you have problematic neighbors' dogs. They respond to loud noises (like barking, or you yelling "go away!"). Unfortunately, they will also affect your dog, if you have one.

OPEN LETTER TO EVERYBODY THAT'S MAD ABOUT THE PEPPER SPRAY:
I'm going to plug a product called Sprayshield/DirectStop. It's a citronella spray that has the same effect as a 10% pepper spray with none of the lasting burning and painful effects off pepper spray. Plus it won't make you cry even if it gets in your eyes!

I work at a doggy day care and we have this stuff on us at all times in case a fight breaks out. Every time I've seen it used, all agression stops dead – while sometimes with pepper spray the dog gets even more agressive due to the pain.

I actually do not think this is the right route here. Your dog is clearly agitated by the interaction, so introducing positive punishment (air horn) is more likely to increase your dog's agitation about oncoming dogs in the future.

Here's what I might try instead:

• Teach a replacement behavior. The one that comes to mind and might work really well here is a "behind" cue. This is really easy to teach: Say the cue "behind!" and toss a small handful of cookies behind you. With practice, your dog will start associating the word with getting food behind you, making him more likely to get behind you to block oncoming dogs. You might also work on asking your dog for other behaviors (sit, lie down) while your dog is still behind you. Practice this at home and slowly increase distractions.
  
  
• Ask other owners to call/leash their dogs. This is sometimes easier said than done, but IME 85% of the time the other owner is competent enough to understand that there might be some conflict.
  
  
• If the dog approaches and you cannot get your dog behind you: What happens if you drop the leash? I know, I know, this sounds terrifying. But often with my leash-reactive guy who I almost always walk on leash, dropping the leash when a strange dog approaches and all else fails usually results in him being more able to greet the dog in a natural way and decrease any tension and frustration caused by the leash.
  
  
• Finally: I know that sometimes EVERYTHING fails and all goes to shit. I recommend carrying spray shield for those circumstances, just so you can break up a fight if needed. This would be my last resort if everything fails and the dogs are going at it, though.

>Is there something I can spray an attacking dog with, without causing a lot of pain or lasting harm?

There are citronella sprays used to deter roaming dogs (not for training, but for safety). I understand that they don't have the harmful/painful effects of pepper spray, but you still wouldn't want it to go in your dog's face by accident. Spray Shield

In the case of non-aggressive off-leash dogs, you could also consider carrying a bag of tiny high value treats with you (e.g. tiny bits of hot dog). Throw a handful at the face of an approaching dog, the pieces will scatter, and he'll sniff around to find them all. That only works if you have many treats though--toss one or two and he'll just follow you for more.

>The problem is, these unleashed dogs sometimes come out of the blue - around a corner - with no warning.

You can take some practical steps to make your dog less of a target for the roamers.

• avoid the really bad areas, if possible
  
• silence the jingling of your dog's tags and leash using rubber bands. Tags jingling is a trigger for many dogs.
  
• walk with your dog at heel or behind you, so you see and intercept threats before she does.
  
  >I'd love to get your advice and/or recommendations for a trainer.
  
  In terms of training, there are a bunch of things you can do. Working in-person with a trainer is a great option. In searching for a trainer, look for someone with real certifications--professional experience alone doesn't cut it. Before committing to work with the trainer, ask specifically about the trainer's experience with fear-based aggression, leash reactivity, and positive socialization. Stay far away from anyone who offers to "fix" the problem in one visit, or who deals with fear/anxiety-based aggression by correcting the dog. That will only make things worse.
  
  Some of the training options a good trainer might recommend include:
  
  
• BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training) to teach your dog to use calming signals instead of offensive warnings to diffuse tension with other dogs
  
• Loose leash walking, so your dog doesn't feel tension on the leash when near other dogs
  
• Practice mock-greetings with easygoing, passive decoy dogs, to build confidence
  
• Teaching emergency maneuvers like about-turns, sitting behind you, and redirecting attention back to you
  
• LAT (look at that), a training tool method that rewards the fearful dog for looking at the scary thing, turning it into a fun game
  
• Counterconditioning - changing the way she feels when she sees a dog by associating dogs with enjoyable feelings, pavlov style.
  
• Desensitization - gradually exposing her to dogs at a pace she can handle
  
  A lot of those methods, especially BAT and Desensitization, require control over the situation though, and with roaming dogs that's not always possible. Ideally, you could set up mock-situations and practice with those sorts of methods, and use the other methods in real world situations.
  
  In the sidebar, any of the links in the "Fear and/or Aggression" or "Choosing a Trainer" sections might be useful.