KD was my first time assembling minis. I definitely had some trepidation over the whole thing, but really it's not bad.

Now, I admit, I had some guidance from a coworker, but I'll pass all that guidance onto you right now. All you need are the following three items:

• Plastic cement. This stuff is great, and is the best thing to use for plastic models (even Adam recommends it--even this brand specifically, I believe). It actually melts the plastic together to create the bond. Now, this may sound scary, but the great thing about it is it doesn't act as fast as super glue, which means you have time to play with the join to get it just right (while it still dries fast enough to be convenient). Just be careful to not get it on your fingers while holding a join, or you may leave fingerprints (a little goes a long way, and this isn't hard to avoid).
  
• A flush cutter. That's the one I use and it works great. You'll use this to snip the individual pieces from the sprue (that's what the sheets of plastic that you get are called. A sprue represents what comes from a single mold, and has many pieces attached to it, which you will need to snip free to assemble). It's super easy--just take your time to make sure you don't cut off more than you need to. Many pieces come with extra plastic to assist with the join (kinda like puzzle pieces--they fit together, you just still need to glue them).
  
  
• A standard Xacto knife. I won't link this, cause honestly any will do. You'll use this to clean up your pieces. Primarily you'll probably use it to deal with the excess plastic left from where the two halves of the mold joined (also known as "flash"). I generally like gently scraping this away with the back side of the Xacto knife, almost like I'm sanding it. You can also use this to cut off any excess, if you don't get a joint snipped off quite clean with the flush cutters (better to cut off too little with those than too much!).
  
  Basically, the key once you have these tools is to take your time. Consult a guide like vibrantlantern.com, which another poster mentioned, and which was an invaluable resource to me.
  
  A mini takes me anywhere from an hour (really complex monster), to 20 minutes, generally. They can go much faster once you get the system down, but I like taking time to figure out exactly what the mini should look like (for the armor kits).
  
  Throw on some music, or Netflix (or whatever helps you pass the time without distracting you too much), maybe grab a beer, and make an evening of it.
  
  It's also worth noting that all you need to start playing is the White Lion, and the four Starting Survivors. These all come on a single sprue, and are really quite simple to assemble given the above directions and tools. That will get you through several hours of gameplay just by itself, and then from there you can move on to creating other monsters and survivors as you need or want them.
  
  Hope this helps!

Knipex combination pliers have become one of my favorite knipex products. Less bulky than linesman pliers, more beefy than needle nose. Not too expensive either.

Knipex cutters (my preferred size is 8") are some of the best made.

Their compact bolt cutters are awesome too.

Cobras are well renowned, although your Irwin Groovelocks are a decent substitute.

Pliers wrenches are very nice to have, but pretty spendy, even for Knipex.

When browsing Amazon for knipex, its best to search Amazon Warehouse for any "used" deals, and use a price tracker like CamelCamelCamel to get them when the prices are low. The prices fluctuate a lot more than is reasonable. Amazon Warehouse "used" products are typically just products that have been returned or products with damaged packaging. I've had great luck with Amazon Warehouse, everything has been like-new, but without original packaging.

This is a good buy right now, especially the $65 "used" Amazon Warehouse offering.

I also like this set with the cute keeper pouch.

I'm in the process of building my first FPV drone with my 11 year old son. Tools I owned or have purchased for this are:

A set of small screw drivers. I found a set in the bargain bin at NAPA Auto that had straight, philips, a few hex, a few sockets.

A decent electronics soldering station. Not the gun. I have a digital Weller that is easy to control, but the analog is just as good for these purposes.

A third hand. There are many different kinds. I got a cheap $5 one at Harbor Freight. Not great, but does the job.

Solder, de-soldering wick, flux (maybe)

Depending on where you're doing your work, might want an air-filter or fan.

A magnifying lamp is helpful but not necessary.

An assortment of board stand-offs/spacers is handy.

A good small pair of wire snips.

Wire stripper

A digital multimeter is not a bad idea.

Those are all the major tools you might need. Plus all the drone parts. batteries/charger. Radio/receiver. Camera/receiver(goggles or screen).

In short, it's a lot of stuff. The drone parts end up being the least expensive part, honestly.

Above links are just examples, not necessarily endorsements.

You mentioned you're on a budget, which I totally understand. Building is not the cheapest route, but it's been a lot of fun so far. People who've done it for a while tend to forget the cost of tools. Once you've built one, subsequent drones are relatively cheap. You can re-use batteries, the charger, most decent radios, even the receiver.

If you're not in a hurry, Bangood is a good source for cheap(er) parts. You're on your own for support, usually, but there's lots of help out there.

Do I really need a deburrer for petg? I bought the drill bit from primo chill because I thought it would be handy.. not sure if I need to deburr on top of that?

You don’t need a deburrer. This is just to make the hard tubes not sharp on the ends so it won’t cut the o-rings in the fittings.

Should I buy gloves for when bending the tube?

You don’t have to. I don’t use gloves but if you want to play it safe and not get burnt then yea, get gloves.

Do you find it easier to hand-bend vs using some sort of mandrels?

Hand bending can be hard for a first timer but they do come out a lot nicer when hand bent. I would recommend getting a bending kit because the 90 degree angle bend is going to be your friend.

Trying to get any ideas of stuff that might be a good idea to have that might not be as obvious as the parts needed for the build..

You might need a drill.

Bending kit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22341/too-134/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Mandrel_Kit_-_12_x_58_16mm.html?tl=g12c133s2087&id=nC9C9JEQ

XSPC Heavy Duty Hose Cutters: https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Heavy-Duty-Cutter-0-25mm/dp/B00ZQLKP0I

Heat gun: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22339/too-136/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Heatgun_w_Adapter.html?tl=g12c133s2087&id=nC9C9JEQ
Edit: what do you use to cut your petg? Hand saw? the XSPC cutter? a pipe cutter from local hardware store?

The parts you need for your custom loop check out our CLC: https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/

Chain mail and some other metal work. Welded a tree out of scraps in the shop recently, but this is what I'm proudest of so far. I started doing this at a call center job, making the rings from scratch and just playing around until it looks like I wanted.
these would help me make some really nice jewelry.
these would help me keep making sturdier things like gauntlets and other armor.
these would help keep my hand intact for other things Ill be welding.

I used to just coil the copper around a knitting needle or metal rod that I had measured to give me the correct ID for the rings. Since they didn't compress like dowels they were pretty reliable and reusable. Once I'd filled the rod I would slide it off and just use flush cut metal cutters (cost me like $4) to cut them by hand. Once you've practiced it a bit it's a pretty quick process and gives you almost no kerf because you're cutting exactly on the line for the gap. I had good luck with it for smaller gauge stuff. Cutting higher gauge is gonna kill your hands, but copper and reasonable sizes was nothing. So that might be an option for you.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/IGAN-330-Electronic-Clippers-Powerful-Precision/dp/B07RW8VTSX

I don't know that specific one (I got mine at harbor freight for super cheap) but that style.

If you want to buy precut rings, I really like RingLord. Good quality, fast shipping, reasonable prices, lots of selection, and been doing it a while.

https://theringlord.com

The following are the parts I'll be purchasing for this build. I think I've covered everything, but as this will be my first custom loop if someone could give it the once over and make sure I'm not forgetting something it would be GREATLY appreciated!

Link to current build

Item | Vendor | Price | Quantity |
---|---|----|----|----
[CE 280](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual","EK-CoolStream CE 280) | EK | 75.99 | 1 |
[PE 360](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple#ow_alert_box","EK-CoolStream PE 360) | EK | 79.99 | 1 | 1
Corsair SP 120 2-pack | Amazon | 27.99 | x2 |
EK 140 Revo D5 | EK | 163.99 | 1 | text
EK Supremacy EVO | EX | 78 | 1 | text
EK Pump Bracket | EX | 13.49 | 1 | text
MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk EK| Newegg | 569.99 | 1 | text
ATX Bridging Plug | EX | 2.49 | 1 | text
Alphacool Silicon Bending Cord | Amazon | 8.49 | 1 | text
EK-CSQ Plug | EK | 3.49 | x2 | text
EK-AF 6mm M-M Extender | EK | 2.99 | x2 |
EK Ball Valve | EK | 19.99 | 1 | text
EK X Splitter | EK | 8.99 | 1 | text
Heat Gun | Amazon | 17.71 | 1 |
Step Bit | Amazon | 10.85 |1| text
Pipe Cutter | Amazon | 7.99 | 1 | text
EK-HDC 16mm Gold Fitting | EK | 8.99 | x10 |
EK PETG 12/16 Tube | EK | 8.49 | x4 |

You just need to something to scratch the surface of the glass. The scribe is easy to use is all. You could use a diamond blade, a file, whatever just so you scratch the surface of the glass to give the crack a place to start.

If you ask them for a glass scribe they will be able to show you what it is. They have them. Only like 2 bucks.


http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-8501-Glass-Cutter/dp/B00004T7VN/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1313526286&sr=1-5


Yea sure LED would work great. The reason you want to open up the bottoms with normal lights is:

1. You have to get them in there.

2. Heat.

Both of which don't apply with LED tech.

Good luck.

I've tried an electric knife, but that didn't have the control I'd hoped, although it was fast. With more patience, you might have better luck than me. Also, don't buy the one I linked, instead find one at a thrift store.

I tried to build a hot-wire cutter from toaster parts, but it didn't get hot enough, so I gave up on it.

In the end, I ended up just free-hand sanding and cutting away the foam. In other words, I'd spring for a second ball. :( Check your local Dollar Store. They have a small selection of foam, and while their spheres are probably too small, it does end up being a good place to get a 4" cube

One last hint: A mandolin slicer is really good for taking thin slices off a foam sphere. I used it to flatten the backs of eyeballs, and it worked really well.

I made my stands for my Rift using cheap-assed Ikea floor lamps and a camera mount epoxied on top. 2 lamps make 1 89" stand (cut to length using a cheap pipe cutter), with the 2" camera mount, and 2.5" for the sensors, all coming to 93.5" in total...2.5" from my 8' tall ceiling. The lamps were originally $10 each, but they seem to have gone up. The best part of the stands is that the base is only 10", instead of 2-3 feet square that a tripod takes up. Fits nicely in corners, and also looks nicer than the legs of tripods. They're actually quite fashionable. :P

• Wire snips - These Claus scissors are my favorite
  
• 110 Punchdown tool - If you want to spend a little more, you can get one with a blade that will stay sharper longer. I've used both TrendNet and Fluke. The fluke blade lasts longer.
  
• Stripping tool - Makes stripping cables much faster and accurate (once you adjust the blade to the cable you're using). You can just as well strip by hand, but always be sure to examine the wires to ensure you didn't nick them.
  
• RJ45 Crimper - You won't need these unless you plan on terminating any cables with RJ45 plugs. If you're strictly terminating into a patch panel you can skip these.
  
  Other useful things:
  
  
• Cable tester
  
• Velcro
  
• Label maker

No idea about the helmet. As far as tools go

non contact voltage tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_XxzgAb8RCT4Y9

Works great for double checking the utilities are off or isolating a particular circuit if you don't want to leave someone's house entirely without power

4 in 1 screwdriver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009V431/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vzzgAbASETAEA

For screwing and unscrewing things

Reasonable sized channel locks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZAzgAbD9C5JND

For a while I had vice grips instead of these but found with gloves on they were a little too clunky to manipulate. Works great for grabbing and loosening like gas connections to dryers

And this rescue tool dealio
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057UMN3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZCzgAbQY3EK8Z

Works as your battery cutter, prying tool, gas shutoff and a spanner. I cut one of those little locks that secures piv valves and commercial sprinkler systems with this thing before my partner could make it back with bolt cutters so that alone was worth half the price

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Hobby-Model-Holder/dp/B004KNHGP0

​

This painting stand is super handy and not very expensive.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-167110-1001-Heavy-Craft-Knife/dp/B001A42CTW

​

This is my all time favorite knife. Heavy and has a great feel. I bought a half dozen for my department at work.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B00VRTM8XU/ref=asc_df_B00VRTM8XU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167125073467&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=188162906493521005&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024238&hvtargid=pla-310095161468&psc=1

​

Xuron Micro-Shears for sprue cutting.

Oh nice, I didn't realize he offered black aluminum!

For what it's worth, in the future, get one of these puppies for cutting aluminum and copper tube: https://www.amazon.com/GOCHANGE-Cutter-Aluminum-Cutting-8inch-7/dp/B01AYUVCX4

The only thing better would be a chop saw with a fine tooth blade for cutting metal, but one of those tube cutters will give you a nice clean, square edge.

If you want to do it yourself, you'll need new cables, allen wrenches, and a cable cutter. Park Tool is a great site for repair help, you'll want to take a look at these pages. It's probably cheaper and easier to just take it to the shop, though.

What size/type of tubing are you using?

I use 12mm bitspower acrylic or 12mm PETG barrow tubing.

My favorite set of tools are:

https://www.amazon.com/3Pcs-Hardline-Mandrel-45-90-180-Rigid/dp/B01IDVQC8Q

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Digital-Heat-HT3500-503040/dp/B00BV14VMA

https://www.amazon.com/Wolverine-PST085-Inner-Outer-Reamer/dp/B0002YVLHA

For the barrow PETG:

For cutting: https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Valves-69PTKC001-Plastic-Tubing/dp/B0054YDY0A or similar

The insert: https://www.amazon.com/Barrow-Silicone-Bending-Tubing-Black/dp/B01M9CTQ1S for when I buy barrow tubing (it's 8mm ID, 12mm OD)

For the bitspower acrylic:

For cutting: https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Mini-Hack-Blade-Angles/dp/B01COE3YZ2 or similar

Edit: Found the insert: http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-silicon-bending-cord-10mm-clear-1m.html

Cleaning up and shaving down to size (this thing is amazing): https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit

Buy the insert made by the company that makes the tubing for best compatibility imo.

Also I use a belt sander.

Edit: Also I use Mayhems dyes with either white pastel or their X1 clear. Both should be safe with PETG or Acrylic.

It's a tobacco tool. http://www.amazon.com/Keaychain-Spike-Tamper-Reamer-Tobacco-Pipe-Tool/dp/B005OKG6V8

"USAGES: Tamper (Stubber): Allows you to pack the pipe bowl chamber. Reamer: Helps clean out the dottle & ash from the bowl chamber. Spike (Pick) is great for cleaning & removing ash & other residue in the stem and shank as well as the bowl chamber."

All the cat5 cables ive seen have 4 pairs; blue, brown, green and orange/red and a striped counterpart. In the image posted it looks like the colors are still there, they just went with different patterns and shades.

So im seeing the orange one come out of the wall, and it LOOKS like its going into the third block from the left, but i notice its actually connected to the second from the left, so its matched with the solid orange. The fourth from the left appears to be the solid greens, as i can also see the third block contains the striped greens (as well as some of the leftover from the wall cable). And of course the far right block houses the orange striped wires. So it looks like someone was bridging the orange and green pairs, but the green striped line is broken or cut on purpose.

So like i said before if it was coming from the phone line we would only need 2 to get data to the modem, but as this is coming from a router, itll need most, if not all, of the 8 wires connected. There is a guide to wiring all this up and it goes by color of the wires, but thats just a guide and may not always be the case in how it was actually wired up.

This is how a standard ethernet cable is hooked up

Also cat 5e is just a cat5 cable that can handle more data and is better shielded so thats a non issue.

So long story short, its looks like all of them need to be hooked back up. All the suggestion in my first post should still be valid and if i were doing it i would probably run a whole new cat5 cable from the router to the pc. Failing being able to do that, i would trim up the cables in your pic, crimp new heads on following the diagram color chart, and patch them together with a female-to-female rj45 patch socket. Failing ability to do that, i would solder each wire to the other and shrink tube the joint. And lastly i would resort to twisting them together with electrical tape, or using a wire block like in your pic to join them and throw the whole thing in an enclosure like a plastic bag or something lol. Basically anything to get those wires touching and not falling apart will net some degree of success.

You'll need:

Edge trimmers

Cat5 head crimper

F2F rj45 coupler

Cat5 heads

Something similar to this 8 wire bus bar will work, but smaller would be better

And thats about it, depending on how you decide to go about the repair. Also no problem at all. shoot me another message if anything else pops up and ill help however i can.

How do I know what gauge to get? I this sufficient Wire, Bananas and Wire Cutters. I think I will skip the DAC for now and see how everything sounds? As I can always buy one later and add it in but how do I know if I need one?
Edit: Thank you for the help!

Oh my gosh! Awesome. If I can vote for my own stuff, this rescue tool on my knuckle-sandwich list, and Geek Wisdom on my $5-$10 list.

https://www.amazon.com/SwissGear%C2%AE-Maxxum-Double-Zipper-Backpack/dp/B019ZXHJQ0/ I am on my third one after 13 years. First two were because I left jobs. I am about ready for a new one at this job. Goes from dairy, to wastewater plant, to substation, to manufacturing floor and back again. I carry a ton of crap.. and probably a few biological critters from place to place. It holds, typically 2 laptops, 5 port switch, cable bag, a few mikrotik routers, tools (best dewalt screwdriver set https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DWHT66417-VINYL-INSULATED-SCREWDRIVER/dp/B006FSCJWS and wiha tweekers https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26197-Precision-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B01L46TEN2 , small ratchet set, Klein 10n1, Flush cuts which are the most useful tool for panels. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Stand-off-Hardened-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B01MFZYNRS ), Fluke 789, Signal generator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015AX89XQ, two large laptop power bricks and lots of Ethernet /serial cables. Typically weights in at 45-55lbs. This bag has the best thing for that weight that most of the Swiss gear bags don't have. A chest strap. It forces the weight rest on the body and not just the shoulders. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1O312xhEvL._AC_SL1500_.jpg if you carry a lot a gear, check this bag out.

Ah, in that case, just wheel it into a hardware store and go at it with the appropriate sized bolt cutter. A 36" model should cut through it like butter. Best of luck!

Thanks! In order to bend the tubes you need a heat gun, something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_6?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1497451741&sr=8-6&keywords=dewalt+heat+gun
I would just get the cheapest one that you can find. You will also need a silicon insert to place inside the tubing to keep the shape while you make your bends. I used the one that came in this kit https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-d-i-y-kit-10and12mm
but you can probably find the insert alone for cheaper since I didn't end up using the saw included in that kit.

I ended up using one of these https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-MiniKlinge-Cutter-Quarters/dp/B01DCHA3RC/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1497452239&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=tubing+cutter

In order to get cleaner cuts. If you don't get the bend perfect the first time you can always take it back over to the heat gun and make any minor adjustments that are needed. The fans that I purchased came in a three pack that included a fan controller that supports up to six fans. I mounted the controller on the inside of the case because I didn't like how it looked anywhere else, but you can stick it on the case anywhere you want.

That deburring tool isn't very good for deburring.

If you're doing petg, you'll be very unhappy with its outer edge deburring performance.

This is the same tool that is much better made: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVLHA/
It still will NOT do external edge deburring well on petg. But it is made better :)


I recommend a circular pipe cutter over a hacksaw. They will leave much cleaner cuts.

Capri Tools MiniKlinge Mini Tube Cutter, Klinge Close Quarters with 1/8" to 1-1/8" OD, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCHA3RC/

I love my electrical sheers. I haven't used them much, but when I do use them I'm always extremely satisfied.

Thank you for the input! I may go with the more expensive Japanese tools as I am earning an extra $300 these two weeks and would like to keep the same tools for a while. What tools should I get so that shears, concave cutters, and wire cutters are all under $100, but still quality?

I just found a pair of basic home depot small wire cutters, do you think they will work? They look like this

Here's my suggestion:

• Hakko FX888D Soldering Station
  
  
• Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter
  
  
• MG Chemicals 63/37 No Clean Leaded Solder
  
  
• MG Chemicals No Clean Super Wick Desoldering Braid
  
  How to use it and getting your soldering technique right:
  
  
• EEVblog #180 - Soldering Tutorial Part 1 - Tools
  
  
• EEVblog #183 - Soldering Tutorial Part 2

Bookmarked, thanks! What kind of product are you using? Something like this??

These little pipe tools come in handy for all sorts of stuff, definitely recommend.

Just got a new pair of Knipex cutters today. Probably the single best tool I own now, aside from the Metcal.

https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-78-61-125-Electronics-x/dp/B0048F601Q/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1541786543&sr=1-6&keywords=flush+cutter

Those are great

Same tactic here. I'm really happy with my knipex "mini bolt cutter": https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-7102200-8-Inch-Action-Mini-Bolt/dp/B000X4KOKE

You can get bolt cutters that fold and easily fit into a gym bag or back pack for a measly $20.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GABUX9G

Nah, I use actual brute force entry; [Tony Montana voice] say hello to my not-so-little friend! [/Tony Montana voice]

36" Bolt Cutters!

For the finale, put a different padlock on the box!

edited for mangled movie quote; derp.

Custom cutting non-tempered glass on site is really easy. Just score the shape you need with this tool. Using the other side, tap the cut line and snap the glass. For the curved portion, just make a ton of straight lines and snap them as you go along.


Given that this is in a warmer climate, there isn't a need for dual pane glass or insulated glass.

Center punch, small crowbar, feeler gauges, screwdriver set, socket wrench set, warded lock set, jiggler set, lifter set, modified extractor bypass tool for Master 175 / Sesame cobo locks, paint scraper, and a pair of folding bolt cutters on special occasions.

Should I let you know when I do a post for r/edc?

Trust me, you want some knipex flush cuts. Now, you may be saying "$30 for some flush cuts?!" but take that Knipex and your cheapo fast tech flush cuts or cutco scissors and go ahead and cut some 24 awg titanium about 50 times. See which one stays sharp. This isn't the exact model I use (I have them at home), mine are actually these ones I think, I'll edit when I get home.

I fucking love my knipex flush cuts. I've done hundreds of builds with all sorts of wire (Ti, SS, Ka1, Ni80) and have had 0 issues with them dulling like every other pair of nail clippers and flush cuts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GR7QF63/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I mean I still ordered it since it had decent reviews lol.

There's not one that I know of that will do what this one will do with copper, but for simple chamfering, these work very well.

I'll be replacing the brake and shifters on my bike soon along with the cables. Do I need to buy a cable cutter like this one to be able to do this properly, or will a simple pair of wire snips do the job?

What you need is a flush cutter, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/IGAN-330-Electronic-Clippers-Powerful-Precision/dp/B07RW8VTSX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=flush+cutter&qid=1562082883&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

For me the top 2 things i can think of are

for PETG And Acrylic tubing a Primoshill RFB you can get it in multiple sizes for what ever tubing your using. I use mine exactly how it says to.

https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit

Tube cutter you can cut PETG and soft tubing with ease.

https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Heavy-Duty-Cutter-0-25mm/dp/B00ZQLKP0I

these are the only 2 things i use every time. i would say some kind of jog to help with bending can be handy but it all depends on the type of bends your doing. I have one but only use it when doing runs with double bends.

I have this little electrician shears and it came with its own sheath.

Sharp strong and will cut through a magazine.

http://www.amazon.com/Clauss-18087-Stainless-Electrical-Cutting/dp/B000XBBKK0

Solved

https://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37080-Wire-Cutter-THERMOCUT/dp/B0017NS8H6

Bought one on Amazon.

*edit: This guy - https://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37080-Wire-Cutter-THERMOCUT/dp/B0017NS8H6

just some suggestions:

Gerber multi tool

window punch

small screwdriver (with changeable bits held in the handle)

Streamlight helmet mounted light

radio strap (if he has his own radio and doesnt have one already)

cable cutter multi tool (i have this and use it all the time - https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-87-8-88-Inch-Compact-Rescue/dp/B0057UMN3A/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=firefighter+cable+cutters&qid=1563800491&s=gateway&sr=8-3)

extra structural firefighting gloves - most volley departments will only issue one set of gear, so its good to have an extra set of gloves in case the others are wet or need to be cleaned

​

if ur in the US try this link: https://www.thefirestore.com/

​

I could go on and on.

You might want to switch to a non locking carabiner. I have a similar set of webbing. When using the carabiner with gloves, in smoke, and in a hurry it's kind of hard to unlock. Mine doubles a bail out kit and it's much faster to deploy.

Besides that I carry the normal set. Channellock, a steamlight., a prusik, door wedges, and safety glasses.

Here is a pic I took when I was issued new gear about 6-8 Months ago.

I own a Proxxon and it cuts through foam like a hot knife through butter.

Cutters

Edit:

for the plastic not the wire

I use the proxxon hot wire cutter. This is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017NS8H6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0017NS8H6&linkCode=as2&tag=modellismofan-20&linkId=e651c44652768c721907a9ab12d8eef8

Here's one that fits on a key chain. Here is the one I use.

It is a proxxon hot wire cutter, and it is for example available here and it is in my mind not incredibly expensive (again, I thought of it as an investment).

I've been using this

Yeah this happened to me when I first received the die. I didnt ensure it was tight like the instructions said. Double check and make sure the tip of the pin isnt bent. I also recommend using a small pipe cutter to remove the casing. GOCHANGE Mini Tube Cutter Slice Copper Aluminum Tubing Pipe Cutting Tool 3-22mm 1/8inch-7/8inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AYUVCX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aFU.BbB3HX2JF. You can use a grinder or saw to remove the case but I'm a bit heavy handed and usually hit the pin. Pulling it off usually involves a lot of grunting and cursing on my end.

This should do the trick

Tube cutter, the bigger ones are easier to cut with, but it doesn't look like you have much space to work with.

Do you have a breaker bar to put on your wrench?

Foam cutting hot wire table.

https://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37080-Wire-Cutter-THERMOCUT/dp/B0017NS8H6

I use kegs with short dip tubes for lagering. I cut them with a mini pipe cutter.

You know those cutters plumbers use to cut copper pipe, and they revolve around the outside of the pipe? The tools I've seen are similar in concept.

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

This is the pipe cutter i used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AYUVCX4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think your parts list looks good. I Haven't use the EK radiators before but i use their cpu block, gpu block, gpu backplate, and fittings in my current build and like them.

I prefer the drain port down low. It can be anywhere, you will just have to move the case around to get all the water to drain. Ideally its at the lowest point, but depending on how the loop is laid out that might not be possible. I've done a T off the output of the pump to make a drain port before. Right now i have it off the bottom port of my radiator.

This is my current drain port
https://imgur.com/Z7JWg4w

This is a previous version
https://imgur.com/Y21tkIa