Reddit mentions: The best lab consumables

Read through the article, you will get a lot of information. Feel free to google words you don't know. In short, in milk, the main spoilage is driven by gram-negative bacteria. They are able to grow a little better than other bacteria in cold temperatures and over time their concentration is high enough where they start changing the chemical make-up of the milk. Mainly, it seems that they release enzymes that break up the fats in milk (not entirely sure about non-fat milk) to other fats whose taste we don't like.

Measuring different kinds of fats, or bacterial concentrations is possible, but to do so cheaply with a simple readout on a carton or bottle is very hard. You will have to go for something that can have an easy read-out but is still indicative of the bacterial concentration. As you guessed, a good metric may be pH. It turns out, many bacteria like to make lactic acid as they grow, especially without too much oxygen, which lowers the pH of the milk.

Again, there are studies already available on the change of pH of spoiling milk, but this is where the fun part comes in. You can do these test yourself very easily. All you have to do is get a couple of cartons of milk (preferably different makes, and different fat% milk). Then measure their pH over time. Probably once per day for the 2 or so weeks it takes the milk to spoil. Each time you measure the pH, write it down and then taste the milk to see if it has spoiled. Try to find a pH value below which you would say the milk is spoiled.

Don't worry, having a little spoiled milk will not hurt you. Especially if you spit it out. Then make sure to take a couple more readings a few days after you know the milk is spoiled (don't taste that stuff) and make sure that the trend of lowering pH is still there.

As for how to measure pH. You can use pH strips. It's important to find ones that have a good change in color in the range you need (6.4-6.8 for fresh milk and lower for spoiled). This might be a good option.

Ideally, then you would need to find a dispenser design that would allow for a pH strip to be subjected to the milk without leaking the dye back into the container. Have fun coming up with some ideas!

Good luck and make sure you talk to your science teacher or any scientists in your community to help you plan experiments. This will help you learn how good experiments are done and in turn make your project all that much better.

Raves:

Andalou Naturals Acai + White Tea Oil Free Moisturizer: It's lightweight, non-greasy, doesn't contain fatty alcohols (pore-clogging for some) and has great ingredients (antioxidants, anti-irritants & skin-repairing agents). I really like it.

New Purchases:

Devita Natural Skin Care Acne Solution Pads: I found these on iHerb. I was excited about the ingredients. Unfortunately, the pH is 5 according to my pH strips so it's NOT an effective BHA. I'll use these on my body and I will not repurchase.

GoW Salicylic Acid 2% Pads: I use these nightly to exfoliate. These are gentle (slight, transient tingle) and super moisturizing. The pH is 4 according to my pH strips so it's an effective BHA. I like them so far.

GoW Majik Anti-Popup Blemish Gel: I bought this because I'm curious about Azeloyl Glycine (a derivative of Azelaic Acid) and Niacinamide. I'm not sure about the coconut cream for my oily, acne-prone skin. I'll use it as a nightly spot treatment to deter blemishes.

GoW Enriched Oat Facial Serum: I bought this because my skin responds well to DIY oat flour masks when irritated. I'll use this to an an anti-inflammatory serum after MUAC chemical peels.

MUAC 25% Mandelic Acid Peel: I can't wait to try this to fade PIH from acne. It should be gentle and effective on my deep brown skin (Fitzpatrick V). I think it'll help acne as well. I'll use it weekly for the first two peels then use it every four days.

JJ Labs Skin Solutions Vitamin C Serum 25% with Hyaluronic Acid: I bought this from Etsy after seeing it on an Into the Gloss 'Top Shelf' post. It has a light gel-like texture, is non-greasy and moisturizing. The pH is 3 according to my pH strips so it's an effective vitamin C product. I'll use this this nightly.

Sorry for the slow response.

That is good your budget is flexible and you want to do it right from the start.

I think the tent is a good choice, and you have lots of vertical height which is great. Are you in a grow friendly state? The reason I ask is they might have some sales at local hydroponic and gardening stores that you might consider. Your plant will have at least a foot above it for clearance from the light and a foot below where you've got your pot. So your actual plant will probably just be around 4 feet tall.

I know a lot of people in america use fox farms soil and the fox farms nutrient line up. Seems to be successful. I am going a slightly more organic method using General Organics nutrients and pro mix with some compost as my soil. The fox farms soil has starting food in it while the pro mix is inert, which means full control of the food for the grower but less of a safety net for the plant if you mess it up.


There is a lot of options when it comes to food, each company has a ton of products. To get you going though I would just use the vegatative food and the flowering food. And some calmag. Everything else is just optional and you can always use next time.

Once you've got your medium and food sorted, you'll want to be able to check your ph levels.


Also grab some of the bottles of ph up and down so you can adjust it accordingly before you feed your ladies.

You'll need a tent to fit your space, I would browse amazon for deals and base your decision on their reviews!

As for what pots to use, I started using fabric pots and they are great. They allow for less over watering because the medium can breathe more easily. You'll want to start in 4 inch pots, then maybe to a gallon, then 3 gallons, perhaps all the way to 5 if you want. Kinda depends on how many plants you decide to keep? I grow small numbers and big plants.

After that you've just got to decide on lighting and ventilation. I don't know a lot about LEDs except that it cuts down on electricity and heat. Some people invest in american companies but they can be quite expensive. A popular method is just ordering cheap LED fixtures from china and not worrying too much if they break because they are so cheap.

/u/Legal_In_OR might stop by here to give some LED advice. He uses top of the line LEDS but I am wondering if he has insight on some of the cheaper options to get you going.




We also have lots of useful information on our website. http://www.herbgrow.co/


Feel free to ask more questions.

Any food grade alkali is fair game to substitute for any other if you can get the needed pH. Usually the recommended choice in a recipe is determined by either locally accessible ingredients or ease of measurement at the scale needed (I am talking through my hat there, but have reasons to believe I am correct, which I will explain).

As an additional hobby, I do a lot of tie dyeing. The reactive dyes are the most color fast for natural fibers , but require a specific pH (11) in which to work. For just over $5 you get 100 pH test strips. For a Catholic homeschool meeting 20-ish years ago, I wanted to make pretzels with the kids as a demonstration of a traditional Lenten food. I was a bit scared about kids and lye, so I started looking at the pH needed to get pretzel browning, because I wanted them to participate at every step of the making. I checked the ph of baking soda solutions and lye solutions with my hand dandy on hand litmus test strips and was not liking it, so researched and stumbled across a way of reducing baking soda by baking that gets you a lot closer to the ideal pH of 13 that lye yields.

An insight was born. I do not use my pH strips as often as my thermapen, but because I have them, I have learned to measure pH for good results whenever browning is an issue. There are a lot more factors that influence the result, but the pH value is the most important in making substitutions. The solution temperature and length of the dunk are the next most important - and there are lots of papers out there explaining the science, but I am still at a level that process feel and product happiness determine temp and time.

/rant on

Damn....funded after selling <50 units and a bunch of donations. I gotta jump in to this market.

Perhaps I can sell pH paper which works very well, a <$10 TDS meter which is nothing but a Wheatstone Bridge like almost every other non-optical TDS meter, a <$20 light meter which works well for white light sources and some instructions on how to grow a plant including symptoms of deficiencies and excesses with a link to a few sub-reddits where more experienced growers are happy to help others out. Nah.....

If it said "Arduino" anywhere I'm sure their fundraiser would do that much better. What's amusing is that I'm actually being serious here. Sometimes you just never know with me.

Over priced for a few plants and there's already commercial solutions that have a long track record of reliability for scaled up operations. I wouldn't beta test for them on a small commercial grow op which is essentially what you'd be doing.

This is more of a luxury product with good market timing at a low funding level which is a great PR move simply because it got funded. But 2/3rds of start ups don't last 3 years and I don't see these people quitting their day jobs anytime soon. If you know the price of just having plastic injection molds made you would get my point.

And don't even get me started on why this is on Mother Nature Network with hard hitting news coverage about Bigfoot and how one scientist says bras don't work.

And that's SAG's product review.

/rant off edit fixed link

Emailing or calling the company is an easy option, but it's pretty random chance you'll get the answer. Some companies like Garnier and Philosophy consider it proprietary information, and act shocked you asked. Other companies like Neutrogena and Stridex are thrilled to share, and others like Simple Skincare will give you a silly vague answer along the lines of "All products have a pH of 5-7.5"

You can buy pH test strips, or litmus paper, online. They are a couple dollars, and you get more than you'd probably ever use. The ones with multiple squares are more accurate but more expensive. 5.5 is a good number to aim for, though it doesn't have to be exact. You mostly want to avoid the crazy 8's and 9's that companies make to give that "squeaky clean" feeling. Keep in mind that any oil cleansing mix you might have will turn your paper a color if tested, but it is meaningless. Oil does not have a pH as it does not have hydrogen ions.

Of course, if you're using a popular or widely available cleanser most likely someone has found the pH already. You can usually find someone's test results in the search bar!

I LOVE the L-Ascorbic acid powder. Once you learn how to use it, it's a versatile, stable product that will last a long time. I'm currently mixing it with Hada Labo Premium. Here is how I measure for precision:

The scoop it comes with is far too large, so I bought these tiny measuring spoons: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009X1P9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The smallest spoon is called "Drop" and it is equivalent to 1/64th of a teaspoon. I measure one level spoon of this and tap it into the palm of my hand. Next, I mix 4 drops of Hada Labo into the palm of my hand (**handy trick--one drop carefully dispersed from the bottle is equivalent to the "drop" measuring spoon). Use the spoon to mix it all up. The powder dissolves completely so there is no grittiness, leaving a perfect 20% strength, 3.0 PH Vitamin C serum in your hand. I test with these strips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DTH14XZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works out to be enough for my face, neck, décolletage, and the backs of my hands. Voila!

you need to get a ph meter: https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=lp_393271011_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1511300438&sr=1-3 will suffice.

I would recommend a water/nutrient pH of 6.4 for promix as it is a peat based media that is acidic. Meaning your pH should be about 6.2, but if you add 6.2 and hits the acidic peat, it will not be that anymore. Some people argue lower pH for soiless, but let me assure you that at 6.4 in results in a 5.6ish out. I personally think you are safe with a pH 5.4-6.2 out. What I mean by out is run-off, you need to feed enough liquid so that ~20% just drains through. Placing the pot in a pail during feeding/watering helps. This will drain extra salts.

Also, you should add perlite (1/3 volume) with promix as it can cause drainage problems and water retention if you don't. Think about that before you transplant. You may need to also add dolomite lime in the future. Read up on that please, just thinking ahead for you, and letting you avoid mistakes I had made. It doesn't take a lot, but helps to stabilize your pH and provides cal/mag.

>Not sure what EC means

It means Electroconductivity and refers to the salinity of your water.
Do you know how hard your water is? If its too hard, you need to dilute it with RO water. Some people just use RO water only, but supplement it with CalMag solution. If you don't know what's in your tap water, call the water department and ask them. They most probably posted your water analysis online.

Yur just lucky I'm feeling nice ;)

EDIT: And ffs quit giving them miracle grow!

A lot of people are going to get all "definitely not you dumb shit" on this but you are pretty OK.

While I would caution against the abuse that is the dishwasher, if you pull off all your keys you can just spray/wipe/wash the whole keyboard clean gently. Dry it all you can by hand and then put it in container with one of these bad boys, I mean the whole pack of 50, and wait a good 5 days for it to dry out.

The radiator isn't a good idea, you don't want to steam out the moisture. If moisture gets into small areas then gets heated up it risks building up pressure and cracking things. Stick to just dry air.

Source: My K60, my Strafe RGB, my K55 at work and my friends K95.

Disclaimer: I am not Corsair. I don't speak for them. This is definitely outside of warranty. THIS should be the nuclear option, dishwasher is just... please don't ever again.

Thanks everyone so much for the input so far!

Glad I only have these metal shakers in a few pots as it sounds like everyone prefers glass beads. Anyone have a link for ones that have proven their worth? I would guess any clear ones should do, I held off originally because of amazon/ebay horror stories of glass or crystal with strange additives having weird effects. Mainly for things like geodes being dyed and the dye running, so hopefully just making sure they are clear would be enough.

I am running some tests on the AK Stainless Steel Shakers, and I’ll keep an eye on the paints they are in. I will be sure to update this thread with their performance.

Thanks again for the reports, keep ‘em coming if anyone else passes through!

Update: I think I have found a good option for beads, they are clear and should fit. I had better luck when I added ‘solid’ to my search which brought up glass beads used for medical/chemistry purposes:

https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Round-Clear-Boiling-Stones/dp/B074C4FPWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521834648&sr=8-3&keywords=Solid+glass+beads

Let me know if anyone sees an issue with those, they are plexiglass but there is also soda lime glass available from another brand but they are more expensive. I’m not sure if either of those materials would react with anything in standard acrylic paints but I can’t speak from experience. I’ll report their performance for anyone interested.

I don't grow outside but I don't think you need to add more nutes to your soil. Not if you are using a quality soil like Ocean Forest.

Honestly, it looks like splash burn to me.

http://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/showthread.php?105935-Nute-burn

But I would check your run off water pH. With soil, you could probably get away with those little paper tester strips they use for pools. Super cheap and available at any pool supply or hardware shop.

https://www.amazon.com/Packs-Paper-Litmus-Strips-Tester/dp/B008IBOG7G

Get the official amazon case...it's great. http://amzn.com/B007R5YFS4

Then pickup a cheap neoprene sleeve with it. http://amzn.com/B005KELR3A

What you have created is a otterbox-like case for it....a hard rigid shell surrounding the PW protecting it from bends, etc. and then a soft absorbent case surrounding the hard rigid case which protect it from falls, bashes, etc.

I have this setup and couldn't be more happier. I have the exact same cases linked above...the official PW case fits nicely, but a little snuggly, into the Belkin neoprene case.

If you're going to be in a wet environment, pickup some desiccants to help with the moisture issue, and use them with the PW case - maybe in a ziploc bag or smaller pelican bag/box. http://amzn.com/B00967JFMM

A word of caution about moisture: What you do not want to do is expose the device to a very moist/humid environment, and then shove it back in a waterproof/etc. bag. You need a way to get rid of the moisture - putting it in a waterproof pelican bag is basically creating a small greenhouse, because the moisture has no way to escape. Your stuff will be "dry" but it will never feel 100% dry. Electronics will suffer tremendously. This is why I suggest the desiccants. Keep a ton of them, and replace them often. Store them separately, in multiple bags (large ziploc bag, then smaller ziploc bags with 1-2 desiccants each). This way when you need 1-2 you only have to expose a small number of them to the environment. Put one wherever your most precious gear is...so in the bag your PW is in, your socks/underwear, maps, etc. They will absorb the moisture but need to be changed probably 1-2 times a day depending on how wet/humid the environment is. Read up on compartmentalization of your gear for your trip, and Good Luck!

I got one from Jellas and I'm very happy with it, which I'll link at the end of this reply. It's been quite accurate for my purposes. I occasionally put it in distilled water to make sure it's not falling out of calibration and so far it hasn't drifted, but if it does it has a screw to adjust it back. The batteries are easy to replace, and it's easy to slide it in past the pellicle and get a quick measurement. I'm actually on my second unit because I accidentally broke the bulb on the first one while drying it. Definitely let it air dry. I always rinse it right before and right after using it. It's a great way to make sure you're brewing a consistent product, since you will know exactly when your first and second fermentations are finished. Remember that pH is logarithmic so the rate of change will not be linear, and the difference in acidity between 4.0 and 3.0 is not 25%, it's 1,000%. I start the second fermentation at 3.4-3.6 and finish around 3.1-3.2.

Jellas Pocket Size PH Meter / PH Tester / Mini Water Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Hydroponics, Aquariums, Swimming Pools, PH 0-14.0 Me https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hkOrr63kSbWzQ

Just toss them in there. All over. Packets or gel beads. You will have to clean em up eventually so, if you have the little gel beads maybe put them in little Solo cups (which are great btw, many kinds are reusable if you bake in oven, see package)

You want the dessicant to be close to the cards, all the cards. I also keep a humidity/thermometer with my cards and try and keep them below 80 f, (65 is near optimal but unfeasable in the summer) above 40 f and around 40% humitidy.

The biggest concerns are long term exposure to humidity, which silica will help, and quick changes of temperature from cold to warm, which can invite moisture.

I bought a 5lb jar of silica for my collection on Amazon. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013L2Z2MY/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?psc=1 but slightly smaller.

Before you do anything, I'd recommend purchasing and using a leaf test system. Lots of options out there like these swabs from Amazon.

LeadCheck LC-2SDC Disposable Non-Staining Lead Detection Swabs, 2 Per Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mPT5xb89MTY71

If you do have lead on the chest, I'd recommend removing the paint all together instead of painting or sealing over it. Obviously using a mask when you sand the old stuff of and using a collection system for the dust rather than letting it fall over your workspace.

Cleaning up lead paint is a task, and if you are inexperienced in the process you may consider taking it to a proffesional to have it completed. It would be a very cool project to hold onto for future generations. Good luck.

Collecting games and systems can be a very exciting and rewarding hobby. I would start by picking a collecting goal before embarking on this journey. Here are some items to consider.

• Do you only collect games that you want to play, or do you want to include other criteria?
  
• Do you want to collect from a single region or all regions -- such as only NA copies.
  
• Just the game disc, game and cover, CIB?
  
• Are you including Special Editions and cover variants?
  
• Where are you going to store your collection? (Don't overlook this item and it's impact on your partner and housemates.)
  
• Are you looking for promotional materials, posters, and other Wii-branded tchotchkes?
  
  Here are some links you may find helpful.
  
  
• Spare Game Cases. You may find it easier to by a dozen or so and keep them handy. You may find the perfect game, but the case is ruined, has a sticker on it that won't come off, or it's just the wrong case, but the rest is fine.
  
• The Cover Project. You may find that some games have missing covers. This side has a repository so you can print off Game Covers for many games and regions.
  
• List of Wii Games. The fine folks at Wikipedia have curated a list of Wii games from across regions. You can peruse this list to help your formulate your collecting criteria.
  
• Silica Gel Packets. I keep these stored with games packed away in boxes. Humidity is a silent killer of retro games -- Disc rot is real!
  
• Mini Dehumidifier. I keep these in my enclosed bookshelves.
  
  Good luck and have fun!
  

I have used the oven method one time, and glad I came back to check it out. I do not recommend using the oven, temps are unstable relatively, and the time needed to dry and the low temps needed, I can not achieve with my oven (full electric lowest temp is 140°f which is 60°c. I know it was unstable do to the filament getting too soft (recommend oven temp is 40°c, if I'm not mistaken).

So I would recommend food dehydrator, here are search results for you https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=filament+dehydrator&dwh=765d2638b300bca

My dry box has no design I just grab something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Latching-Storage-Container-FG3Q2500CLMCB/dp/B002EGNTP6/ref=sr_1_34?gclid=CjwKCAjwmZbpBRAGEiwADrmVXhoB2wgZo-4gx7z0t49bn2TK9weXoN3pqk-2uQZ89k0uOZa3kjGyxhoC-4wQAvD_BwE&hvadid=174242580843&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9005648&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10792283390857055523&hvtargid=kwd-123073099&hydadcr=15250_9600094&keywords=rubbermaid+bin&qid=1562786027&s=gateway&sr=8-34. The one I got was from family dollar, so it only costed like $7.

I used this for the feed holes https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172384

Silica is enough when you have a ton of it, those little packets are fine for vacuum sealed stuff, IMO, but you want more than the 30-50 pellets that come in the single packet. I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?crid=3MHZ5INHY9XMM&keywords=silica+packets+for+moisture&qid=1562786465&s=gateway&sprefix=silica+p%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1, take the money you save on the box (when bought from a bargain store) and put the difference into that or buy some cheaper stuff and add this to the mix https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3QHXOT7LWVYXF&keywords=humidity+gauge&qid=1562786618&s=gateway&sprefix=humidity%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A39VTLCPMNRL3Z

Again the links above are for reference to visually understand what I am mentioning. You can obviously find this stuff cheaper elsewhere. I just prefer amazon or ebay for certain things (TBH 90% of everything I buy, haven't purchased in store items, other than food, for a long time now).

FWIW, those strips are terrible for measuring exact pH levels. I wrote a whole post on why I won't use these strips to test cleanser pHs in a narrow range. Using the large range pH strips is like using a sledgehammer to make a small hole in your wall. Sure, it makes a hole in the general area you want, but it sure as hell isn't going to be exact. The post goes into some detail about how pH indicator dyes work. I actually recommend these strips instead, if you are interested in the pH of things between 3-5.5 pH. I've used those strips to test out the pH of Innisfree's Bija Anti-Trouble Cleanser, CosRX's Good Morning Gel Cleanser, and CosRX's BHA blackhead toner, and the results were much more accurate and easy to read than the 0-14 pH strip range.

TL;DR - the accuracy of your pH strips is the more likely culprit. Use pH strips with the appropriate range for the items you are measuring. Big range pH strips are good for telling you if you have an acid or base, not good at fine-tuned pH level indicators in the 0.5 pH range.

The ph of tap water depends on where you live.. but I know my whole state more or less has safe water in the taps. You can a get pack of like 100 test strips from amazon for like $5. Just make sure the PH is 7 or above.

These are the strips SAG recommended that I use.

I never did like the drops and the vial, but I LOVE the pH strips.

I bought a few gallons of purified water early on, but now I just fill them with just tap water or tap water with the FF Trio Nutrients .

I use the strips to test the water each time, and then use the pH Up or pH Down when needed.

I live in a pretty humid climate as well, and the best advice I got was to use the least amount of liquid possible, add citric last, and keep the batches small. Here's the recipe I developed:

1/2 c. Baking soda
3/8 c. Citric acid
1/4 c. Corn starch (or tapioca, arrowroot, etc)
2 tsp. Bentonite Clay (optional)
2-3 tsp. Flowers/tea/herbs/etc (optional)
1/4 tsp. Epsom or Sea salt
1/2 tsp. Witch hazel/water/alcohol
1 tbsp. Coconut oil (or shea, cocoa, olive, etc)
About 1/2 tsp. (tops) essential oils
5-10 spritzes of witch hazel IF NEEDED

I had over 80% humidity for a solid 4 months and was still able to make really good BBs. The other thing that helps is silicate packs, like they put in food. These are reusable, just pop em in the microwave or oven to dehydrate and use again! My bombs dry in a few hours now:

https://smile.amazon.com/Wisedry-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Indicating-Reusable/dp/B01M7V19JE/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1542658701&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=silicate+packets

Bollocks. Winter is actually better for leaving scopes out because there are fewer temperature swings.

If you have a reflector, I would recommend getting some desiccant packets off Amazon like these 50gram ones. and taping one behind your secondary and another near your primary. You can recharge them in your microwave safetly so they last basically forever.

To fight frost, you can tape a hand warmer behind your secondary mirror. Works in a pinch. You can also invest in a portable hair dryer to apply some light heat to your secondary if it frosts over. It could save your night.

• I try to follow the "3-2-1 Rule".
  
  Here's an example for backing up raw footage,
  
  Shoot footage on SD cards. Copy all the files to 2 different hard drives and store at the office. Bring the SD cards home and store in a fireproof/waterproof container with silica gel (prevents condensation).
  
  
• 3 copies exist (1 primary that I work of off, and 2 backups)
  
• 2 different media types are used (SD cards and Hard Drives)
  
• 1 backup is stored offsite at home
  
  Raw footage doesn't change and is too large to upload to the cloud, but your project files are small and change frequently.
  
  Install Dropbox onto laptop and desktop. Save project files in Dropbox folder.
  
  
• 3 copies exist (1 copy on laptop, 1 copy on desktop, 1 copy on Dropbox servers)
  
• 2 different media types are used (hard drive, cloud storage)
  
• 1 backup is stored offsite (Dropbox cloud)
  
  Dropbox syncs automatically and has versioning.
  
  I don't backup my scratch/cache files. If something happens, they can easily be recreated after linking your raw footage back to your project file.
  
  I'm speaking as a one man crew. I'm sure there are better ways to do it for large studios.

alot of cleansers are often pH 9-10! So 6 isnt that bad - if you want, you can purchase those 4-mark pH testing strips on amazon, they're pretty cheap! I bought this pack of 100 for like $10. That would last awhile and then you can always be sure to get the approximate pH with all your future cleansers :)

You're probably opening a can of worms with that question. I can tell you that in beer-making using bought spring water VS the well water where I lived made a significant improvement.

BUT!!!.... we're not making beer, we're going to distill it anyway, right? So, if you have no reason to think there's something in you tap water that is undesirable it may be okay to use it.

HOWEVER!!... What is critical is the pH of the water. You can buy some cheap pH test strips if you want. My water was way high, close to 9. Your yeast likes it around 5.2. I use this 5.2 pH stabilizer stuff, it seems to work and will last you a long, long time. You'll probably get more alchohol because the ideal pH lets it ferment more completely and quickly.

That said, you can probably skip all that and use your tap water and it will still turn out fine, you can probably buy spring water or distilled water and it will turn out fine. But keep in mind those store bought waters do nothing to maintain a consistent pH, and that's what your yeast really cares about.

All in all, buying water is probably cheap insurance, but since I've been using my tap water and getting good results I would only do it as an experiment. Maybe you would do the opposite, use bought water for awhile and then try the tap one time and see what difference you notice.

Looks like pH issue. pH testing solutions aren't too accurate for the range we need. I recommend getting these which is what I use and they work very well. Meters are okay too, but they're delicate and a lot of people end up breaking them when they try to clean it. If you get a meter, I'd still get those strips as a back-up.

That said, 6 is right around the minimum. 6.2 - 6.5 is where I like to be.

> 3) in your capsule bags keep a silica gel packet to absorb any moisture, this will keep them from expanding and ensure you get a perfect fit each time. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00967JFMM/

TBH adding extra silica packs to powder jars is a good idea as well. It won't hurt and even when stuff is not full on turning to rocks (tianeptine) it can clump up and be annoying to deal with (noopept,PRL)

If it's personal use only I strongly recommend investing in a vacuum sealer (this is the one I got and it's amazing, it also works with other vacuum bags, I like the foodsaver ones) and desiccant packs (also the ones I got)

This will preserve the potency and freshness of your dried shrooms for a really, really friggin long time

I suffered yeast recurrent yeast infections for 2.5 years! This all started from taking antibiotics. I tried boric acid, 90 billion culture probiotics, maintenance fluconazole (1 time every week), several vaginal creams-you name it. I tested for HIV and diabetes-negative. The recurrent bv/yeast specialist at my obgyn office was baffled at my issues!

I am not sure what ended up working for me. I have been clear for a little less than a year now. I have a few theories: 1.) I stopped using the pill and went on an IUD 1.5 years ago. I believe this helped somewhat (lower hormone dose). 2.) I don't wear underwear at night, and sleep without shorts/pants. 3.) I just rinse with water in the shower and use only coconut oil to shave. 4.) I use an AWESOME organic water-based lube that is pH balanced (the company UK based by the name of YES). 5.) Before bed I rinse my vulva/vag off with warm water using a "perrineal bottle", which is basically a squirt bottle. 6.) When I get a uti, I buy d-mannose, and add it to my water. I have cured several utis using this. D-mannose is a special sugar that clings to e-coli in the urinary tract/bladder and flushes it out when you pee. I swear it works just as well as antibiotics. You have to make sure you take the right dosage. Some supplements just provide a dose enough to prevent but not cure utis. I was skeptical at first, but it is something I wish I knew about earlier. Check it out on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SK66UJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1448632306&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=d+mannose+uti
7.) I stopped taking maintenance doses of fluconazole and only used it when I had an active infection. Over the course of 2.5 years, I probably got more than 30-40 infections.

Edit: I also use this to test if I have bv or yeast: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FYGXUC/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484881069&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Normal vaginal ph is between 3.8-4.5. BV will cause your pH to be off, but yeast will not.

I am as well, Old Gt Bottles with a cap like this(cheaper at your local homebrew store) Have been working. however I use(and recommend because one growler takes up less space then 3 or so gt bottles) a Big growler with this cap for 2F and then strain into gt bottles that go straight to the fridge.

I like how you asked for cheaper than $30 and people respond with $200 probes lmao.

I got these two off Amazon cheap, like $15 each.

I've tested them in r/o water and they seem to be accurate, the tds measures up with my water report from the city on my tap water and reads r/o at 0.

I haven't had any issues with my plants as far as ph or PPM.

Here are the ones I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483110799&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+meter+for+water&dpPl=1&dpID=41w2JXOokIL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EWZBB3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483110821&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tds+water+testing+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=51JKkIc76NL&ref=plSrch

I switched out the regular growler tops for these

38mm Poly Seal Screw Caps (fits most 1/2 & 1 gallon jugs) [Bag of 12] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OFP88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dnBDyb93PHGC3

Work awesome and fit any 64 oz growler I've tried them on.

Like you, I needed a pen but didn't want to pay a cnote for one. I'm already using drops because I feel it's more accurate, but wanted a pen to compare to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_lp_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H7N0T6GZ8T1Q6HVCB7SJ

I went with Amazon because if it craps out or doesn't work properly, I have like 3 months to return it. I mean, theoretically you could do this with the bluelab one and return it before their window runs out, but that feels scummy. I figure if nothing else, I'm only out like 13 bucks.

The vape: https://vaporgenie.com/stainless-steel-coil-vaporizer

The glass: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QYLYZ52 (J-hook link lost. Add your own 14mm mouthpiece)

The cooling beads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074C4FPWK

The heat/shock protection wrap: https://www.amazon.com/Homgaty-Sealing-Insulation-Silicone-Waterproof/dp/B0779MCF6V

The torch: https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Torch-Lighter-Windproof-Refillable/dp/B01IROKNMA

All in all a super smooth, easy-to-control experience that can deliver huge hits with tons of flavor. I love this rig.

In terms of water absorption from the air, most cat litter is surprisingly ineffective. I use these indicating reusable silica beads from amazon to keep my 3d printer filament dry. Works wonderfully and when it changes color you just pop it in the oven for a few hours and they're ready to go again.

It depends; if your cameras are primarily stored in a climate controlled space (like, your home with central HVAC), you may not need to worry at all. If you live in the tropics or on an island (look how many lenses from Japan on eBay have fungus) and your gear is stored in warm and humid conditions, the camera bag won't help - it's too open to the air.

The best prevention would be to get some sort of plastic storage box, like the kind for storing sweaters and winter clothes, with a reasonably air tight lid. Buy a set of reusable desiccant - when it changes color, you bake it in the oven - many sets include the desiccant beads and containers to let them absorb moisture. Keep your gear with optics stored there when not in use.

A long time ago my now-wife got water in the lens of her Canon point-and-shoot. We bought these and they seemed to do the trick after a few days. Slowly the spot shrunk until it was gone.

The nice part about those desiccant packs is that you can put them in the oven to "recharge" them.

Good luck, and report back here to let us know if it worked.

Bluelab if you have the money for sure, but for a cheaper option I'd definitely recommend a Jellas Ph pen. I used it for ages before I upgraded. Just remember to calibrate once a week or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC

The reaction that is happening is

Zn + 2 HNO3 -> Zn(NO3)2 + H2

Zinc + nitric acid produces zinc nitrate and hydrogen gas

So as your bath is being exhausted, the HNO3 is being used up. Eventually it'll stop because the HNO3 is all gone. What you could get is some pH paper. That will tell you how acidic the solution is. A fresh batch should have a pH around 0-1. As it reacts it'll get closer to a pH of 7. For your bath, it'll never get above 7 since that is a basic solution.

The reaction might start slowing down once it's above a pH of 5-6, but you'll have to do a little monitoring to see what's best.

I'd start with treating it like a phone that's been dropped in water, with the same suggestions. Do some reading on how people deal with that.

A common one is to put he wet item in a sealed plastic bag with a bunch of uncooked rice. Of course, you'd need to prevent the rice from getting inside the cooker, like through the vents. Maybe you could wrap it in a few layers of cheese cloth, paper towels, something like that. Or at least lay something like paper towels on top of the rice, then put the cooker on top of the paper towels.

I have used desiccant packs with more success than with rice. This is like what I have, it's reusable (you dry it in the oven):
https://www.amazon.com/Hydrosorbent-OSG-40-Dehumidifier-Desiccant-Chloride/dp/B015OT106O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486305711&sr=8-2

I tried drying an item in rice, which helped, but it was still messed up. Using my desiccant container got the item working again properly. Plus it keeps the pellets contained so they don't mess up the device.

Of course, it's possible that permanent damage has already been done to the cooker. But drying it out is worth a shot. You could also see if Anova is willing to help.

Well, tyvek won't really help much - heck just painter's plastic as a vapor barrier from the outside and then some pink stuff (I use recycled denim, it also helps dampen sound) would work just fine. Other people use the rigid foam - check out some of /u/gilliganphantom's posts - he used spray foam.

Insulation can help a lot with condensation, but remember that airflow!

In the meantime, buy buckets of desiccant. https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=desicant&qid=1550686565&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Hopefully this won't get spam filtered.

I honestly don’t think they check the pH standard. They do sell over the counter pH test kits in the pharmacy (or you can order pH test strips by the roll on amazon for wayyyy cheaper you’ll want this one Micro Essential Lab 3110M18EA 325 Hydrion Short Range pH Test Paper Dispenser, 3.0-5.5 pH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LY1KIWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vx47BbNRK6A0F). Normal vaginal pH is around 3.8-4.5 so if you’re outside that range (usually higher than 4.5) it’s pretty indicative that you have BV.

I use this. Mine came factory calibrated. Double-checked with their provided calibration solutions. Their customer support was very helpful since the calibration solutions do not come with instructions:
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/

I use something similar to http://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Hydrion-Papers-Strips-Testing/dp/B002ZYVU4O . I use ones on a little wider PH scale and they work great.

edit: the nice thing is you only need a tiny strip making the test strip roll last a LONG time.

I keep some in a spray bottle and had mine last months. I check it with these. Never had a prob.

Litmus pH Test Strips, Universal Application (pH 1-14), 2 Packs of 100 Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_DPgAwb07HPNZW

It bares mention I always over mix as well. When kegging, I'll use about enough for 2.5 gal in 1.5. Better to be safe than frugal.

You could buy silica bead packets like these or collect them from whatever items you get them in otherwise and keep a couple in a ziploc bag with your WIPs to keep moisture out? I like the idea of dryer sheets too, they come out smelling great!

You want reusable ones: https://www.amazon.com/Hydrosorbent-OSG-40-Dehumidifier-Desiccant-Chloride/dp/B015OT106O/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1488241398&sr=1-5&keywords=reusable+silica+gel

However, these will need frequent drying if in an unconditioned space in a humid climate.

Another option is a goldenrod. Is is a small(12W for the 12" model) electric heater that keeps a closed volume a few degrees warmer than the surrounding environment. This creates a microclimate that prevents condensation on the protected metal things.

This is the one I am using. Its worked perfectly right out of the box so no complaints here. I hadn't thought of that but I'm going to go do it right now, thanks for the suggestion!

Clean in acetone and thin lube (just a pin drop or two) is what I use, but the issue is the rusting and this wont help with that. Once the steel rusts no amount of cleaning is going to help - in high humidity you will need a really high quality stainless steel which will only delay not stop the rusting. You could try storing your throws in an airtight box with a bag of dessicant :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781BN1BZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or go with a full ceramic bearing :
https://yoyobestbuy.com/yoyo-store/yoyo-accessories/buddha-bearing-full-ceramic-dimple/
No rust issues but a different care regime.

Edit : and a bearing that costs nearly as much as the yoyo :)

Depends on where you live. I've stored guns in foam cases for weeks without issue but I'm in Phoenix. If you can get the shelf closed up fairly well and can keep some desiccant in there https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0zoxCbD7B7YKQ you could change it out and dry it as needed and should be good.

I think all hair experimenters especially no pooers should own some pH test strips. Since we're not using a product that has been regulated and safety checked (even minimally) we should be able to check at least one factor (pH). pH test strips can be bought and many big box stores as they are necessary for pool maintenance. I bought mine on Amazon.

200 test strips, great ratings, under $6: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Sz1ZCb97EPPCK

You can get replacement tops for the GT bottles. They are not too expensive at Amazon.

You say that it has an acidic taste, but is it really acidic? Time to bust out your old chemistry set! You can get a set of litmus strips on Amazon for only 4 bucks which will tell you if it is actually acidic, or if you are just tasting some weird flavor aspects (like too much citrus).

If it is truly acidic you have a few options. You can blend it with a more alkaline mead, or you can add some calcium carbonate mix it up until fully dissolved (I siphon around 1/2 gallon of mead from a 6.5 gallon carboy, mix 1 tablespoon into that, and re-add that to the rest, then stir) and let it settle for a day, and test the PH again, rinse and repeat until you're at where you want to be, if it's really acidic, you can do 2 tablespoons.

I'm going to try and help from a different angle than suggesting games. Because if humidity is your biggest problem can't you do 2 things to solve it?

• I'd check out these or products similar to it, since they'll absorb the moisture they may be able to protect all of your games, and they don't seem to be that expensive.
  
• Also have you tried sleeving your cards? I literally just ran a test the other day with dumping cards in a cup of water and while 1 sleeve does a decent job, once you get to 2 sleeves it's practically water proof.
  
  I'm saying this because most games I would actually suggest would be deep card games with alot of replay value because they are tough. Games like Hanabi and The Grizzled come to mind.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DBPY6F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5NTCWW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

solved my problems.

I live in south Louisiana where humidity is like that friend who doesn't know when it's time to leave. My box stays at 10% humidity now. Also, /u/arudinne linked the same weather sealed boxes I use for filament when it's being stored. Use the leftover silica in the weatherbox. That container is running at 10-11 humidity also.


You can also make a weatherseal box a dry box and directly print from it, which is something I might consider after getting an mmu2 if I can't find a good off the shelf solution.

pH testing isn't too expensive as far as brewing equipment goes.

Strips -get the ones for the pH range that you are interested in, in this case the acidic range. The pH strips that range from 1 to 14 are a lot harder to read accurately.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-Lab-3110M18EA-Dispenser/dp/B00LY1KIWY/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1480250246&sr=8-23&keywords=ph+test+strips


Alternatively you could get a meter (my recommendation if you can pick one up for less than $20). While not lab grade, even the cheap ones are good enough for our purposes.

https://www.amazon.com/Rozway-Digital-Balance-Powder-Accuracy/dp/B01GN9E1QA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1480250302&sr=8-20&keywords=ph+test+strips

They've been stored right. These are the ones I use: https://www.amazon.com/Hydrion-paper-Dispenser-Color-Chart/dp/B005FYGXUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486171334&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+hydrion

Here's the thing though, I hope I'm wrong. I just noticed that the COSRX BHA wasn't doing anything for me, so purchased another bottle thinking I got unlucky. Used that for a couple weeks, nothing. Decided to test the pH of both and BOOM. Around 6. Then I came here in a panick haha.

If anybody has other BHA recommendations with a minimal ingredient list, preferably one that uses betaine salicylate. PLEASE indulge me.

Well pH is measuring acidity/basicity from 1-14 so I try to adjust it to 5.5 - 6.5 using this.

Rip a tiny piece of the pH paper and just barely dip a clean glass rod in the solution you're testing, then touch the glass rod to the paper then determine if you need to add a tiny amount of vinegar or baking soda

Mason jars are made to withstand vacuum, not internal pressure. so you're more likely to have an explosion with those than a bottle made to have internal pressure. The Grolsh style beer bottles work great. I also like using 1/2 gallon growlers (get the ploy caps).

Just by heating it? Nice.
I was gonna buy something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7V19JE/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3TTLWB3O3TZXN&psc=1

Silica gel. Will help with moisture and condensation from temp change. I was on the road in Louisiana with a semi hollow and the thing would drip with moisture after being in airconditioning. It really helped. If you aren't going to take it out this will keep condensation from happening because the air inside the case will be drier and less moisture to condense onto guitar. If you don't want to buy that then pantyhose full of uncooked rice is a similar solution. Some saran wrap to seal the case after that wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Link:

Will do! Thanks for bringing this to my attention!

Edit: Just ordered a Lead Tester kit from Amazon, https://www.amazon.ca/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519776303&sr=8-4&keywords=lead+test+kit

Will keep everyone updated!

These are the models I went with, they've been working flawlessly so far:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBUH4RC
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VK4YY0

Definitely worth every penny, even if they do end up breaking sooner.

I have used dessicant to rescue many a phone for family and friends, though not with total success because obviously sometimes there is permanent damage. I put the device in a big ziplock bag with the dessicant and let it sit for at least 2 or 3 days, the longer the better.

For example https://[amazon.com/6PACKS-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Packets-indicating/dp/B0781BN1BZ](https://amazon.com/6PACKS-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Packets-indicating/dp/B0781BN1BZ)

Get a big dessicant pack and keep it in your container. Caps will dissolve if filled with water after just a few minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/6PACKS-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Packets-indicating/dp/B0781BN1BZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=dessicants+packets&qid=1562613345&s=gateway&sprefix=dess&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

To answer your original question, take a given quantity of choline, then you'll need to slowly dissolve the choline in 10 ml of water until it no longer dissolves, then weigh what's left and subtract that quantity from the original. Divide that number by 10 and you get the concentration in mg/ml.

Let's say you got 22 mg/ml and you want to take 300 mg. 300/22=13.6. You'll need 13.6 ml of solution to get that 300 mg.

I've been using these ones from amazon, which have worked fairly well. I just got a pretty decent digital pH meter, though, as I've been wanting to get one for my beermaking, so we'll see if the convenience of the strips outweighs the accuracy of the digital meter once I get it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481968489&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ph+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=41w2JXOokIL&ref=plSrch
So something like that would work to test dirty runoff as well? Thanks

I’d say tents and hard gear would be ok. Fold or hang them loosely. Make sure they are totally dry before storing. Sleeping bag and clothing should stay inside.

Get some of this for inside, and and if you seal the outdoor storage door, the outside as well.

5 Pounds of Industry Standard 3-5 mm Large Blue Beaded Indicating Silica Gel Desiccants and Dehumidifier, Air-Tight Can for Storage - RECHARGEABLE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a9bYAb0CZXS54

Dude I gave up on digital pens. Even with constant calibrating its just not as reliable as these. I love them and haven't looked back.

I will make up a batch of StarSan and keep it for several weeks. I bought some inexpensive pH test strips from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IBOG7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00). I dip one into the solution, and as long as the pH is 3 or lower I'm good to go. Haven't had a problem with sanitation.

I ordered and have been using this Jellas pocket sized pH meter.

By pH down solution, do you mean something like this.

First part serious. Second part funny.

If the pH of the shampoo isn't advertised, you could simply test it yourself. Supposedly pH balanced shampoo (different from pH neutral) is supposed to be like 4.5? So you'd need a test kit that would be able to distinguish 3.5 from 4.0 from 4.5 etc.

Edit: If it was me and I wanted to find out the exact pH of my shampoo, this is what I'd buy.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-Lab-3110M18EA-Dispenser/dp/B00LY1KIWY/

Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.

This comment contains 1 pricing graph(s)

____

Product 1: pH Test Strips for Urine and Saliva with 4 testing panels for increased accuracy: pH Dip Sticks (100 Count, Full pH Range from 0 to 14) (B00M4X5J20)

Imgur pricing graph

||Amazon|3P New|Used|
|--:|:--|:--|:--|
|Cur||$9.99|Not in Stock|
|Hi||$19.88|
|Lo||$2.26|
|Avg||$9.22|

_____

^^I'm ^^a ^^bot. ^^Please ^^PM ^^any ^^bugs

I haven't had issues with my laptop and humidity because it's in fairly constant use. Our last house had a dry box that I kept my camera in, but barring that, I highly recommend a dry sack with a reusable silica pack.

Get something like this, just a roll of ph paper. It only takes a tiny bit and it'll last forever. For these purposes, its as accurate as you need and you don't need to maintain it like a ph meter.

I am not a specialist, since I just begin in the AB community, but dry people lack oil and its genetic, and dehydrated people lack water.

Be sure to drink enough water each day (8 glasses at least) but for your ph concern, you can maybe just check on google of people looked for the ph of their product. Or, if you wanted a product anyway, you can buy some strips especially for that on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Litmus-Strips-Universal-Application-Packs/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479873268&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+strips

I saw there's also a digital ph tester.

I got some pH test strips from Amazon here they are, I tested some things last night and here are my results:

Tap water - 7-8 pH

GoW 5% mandelic acid serum - 3 pH

Stridex Red Box - 5 pH

I also tried to pH test my CeraVe cleanser, but I don't know how that works since it's a gel.

After doing a search on here, it looks like my pH readings are way off. Any ideas?

Id definitely get a PH pen, those drops are not accurate enough for growing marijuana IMO.
I use this, haven't had any problems with it
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496106446&sr=8-3&keywords=PH+pen

So, for funsies I tested the Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid with these paper pH strips and got a pH of ~5. Paula's website lists a pH of 3.5-3.9. The strips were effective at testing my other products, so why is the pH of the BHA Liquid so far off? Is there something about the product that makes pH testing more complicated, or does this product not work with paper strips? Or did I get a bad batch?

E: Here are some pictures I took of the test strip.

Bell jar plus dessicant with color change indicator

Put a tiny bit of Vaseline on the rim of the bell to help keep it airtight. Hide the packet under some fabric or whatever else makes it look nice to you. Replace and recharge dessicant as needed.

I appreciate your ingenuity, but I don't like your solution. There must always be some way to get the windshield glass warm enough to cause the fogging on it to evaporate (assuming the car's heater is working and has a minute to warm up), and I'd rather throw some electrical power at the heater than have to swap kitty litter every so often.

That said, do whatever works for you. If you just want a desiccant, there are types of desiccant that color-change when saturated and can be baked dry again.

>You can add in desiccants or mothballs if you're worried about mold or bugs.

Is that, like, a must, or only "if I'm worried"? They may remain in storage for years so there's that.

And wdym, like, putting one of these in the bag: https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=silica&qid=1572639931&sr=8-11 ?

I bought these and happy with the results

http://www.amazon.com/Sticks-Strips-Count-Improved-Testing/dp/B00M4X5J20/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408242184&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+dip+sticks

I bought these. It's like a pH strip tape dispenser. I heard you shouldn't apply the strips directly to your vaginal wall or cervix- that may be harmful. So, I just swabbed my cervix and wiped on the strip. Since I already check my CM this way anyway, I figured I may as well use the sample. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Tomatoes should be ok for the water-bath, you can do a litmus test to make sure.

Here's the Amazon link for anyone interested:

https://www.amazon.com/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/

You're welcome! If you need a recommendation, these are the kind I have.

Be sure to test with LeadCheck LC-2SDC Disposable Non-Staining Lead Detection Swabs, 2 Per Pack. Colored pieces from China typically contain lead but sometimes you can find a piece without. I highly recommend only getting clear pieces from China whenever possible.

How much should I be spending on a PH pen are these cheap $20 Ones any good? [Like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496521064&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+pen)

Also should the PH Be at 5.8 In the runoff, or what I feed the plant

http://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Hydrion-Papers-Strips-Testing/dp/B002ZYVU4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426730546&sr=8-1&keywords=Hydrion

good?

I bought the two below (the first results for pH meter and PPM meter respectively). They are well reviewed and have worked great for me.

https://smile.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491933088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ph+meter&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Measurement-Resolution-Accuracy/dp/B0002T6L5M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491933118&sr=8-3&keywords=ppm+meter

If you need EC instead of PPM I can't help you, but you can convert between the two I believe.

I hope I'm not too late! I'm looking at getting a ph meter to add another element to my brewing.

Does anyone have [this meter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bgV4ybF47N2CA)? I'm not really finding anything about the temps. it works at.

Easiest way is just to get some pH paper, just dip it in and match color on the package.

https://smile.amazon.com/Hydrion-paper-93-Dispenser-Color/dp/B005FYGXUC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pH+paper&qid=1568937558&sr=8-3

> store them in a sealed container with 0% humidity inside

You mean like a ziploc bag with all the air squeezed out? If the beads get saturated, you can cut the packets open and bake the beads at 250°F (120°C) until they go clear again.

You can also buy them in bulk on Amazon.

They're available on Amazon, and you can get two-day shipping. A dedicated paint store might be more likely to have test kits than a general hardware store.

You can't replace LP lights with anything but OEM LP lights. The leveling motors would be missing and the harness would be completely different. Helix lights are made to use with the non LP GTIs.

Check out this thread: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14422

I keep these on hand, and tape some to the inside of my housing cap if I ever notice any condensation: https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2RR5362S5UEV8&keywords=silica+packets&qid=1562783428&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+c+to+displa%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-4

edit: call AutoHaas and see what they have. They're a VW/Audi recycler and have a ton of parts for sale.
888-897-2781

As others have said - Sailor/Whaling art.

Without removing the paint --- and for the benefit of the person appraising

​

Do not clean - patina might be important to the value.

​

(A) find a place that is missing paint and get a picture of the wood grain - and type of wood

Tight grain - often means very old wood, or old things, loose (wide) grain means newer wood.

​

(B) Local hardware store might have a lead paint test - it is a simple chemical test, the type I've used turns RED if lead is present.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I

LEAD was commonly used for paint - it's not totally hazardous if you are careful with it. It is hazardous if you have a small child and the chew on this thing, or lick the dust off with their tongue - That said - lead was most commonly used for the color WHITE - ie: "White lead", in old nautical wood things you might find what is called "red lead" as a filler or bedding compound between pieces of wood.

Since we're sharing our pH meters, I use this when I need to check (which isn't all that often)

Definitely. It’s the most accurate one can get.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTH14XZ

Yes, plus 5 Gram [60 Packs] Silica Gel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7V19JE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Might be bacterial vaginosis, it can be subtle for some women. This might help you narrow it down in the meantime.

ph meter from amazon

I have this one and it works well! 16 bucks too so I recommend this if you are looking to purchase one!

On the topic of pH, I've had a few burning questions for a while. Wasn't sure to make a new post on this or stick it here.

1. If I buy this $3 pack of 160 pH strips, is it reliable or should I aim for a more expensive one, like a $12 version? And I recall, back in grade school when we were testing for pH level, we used a few pH strips and took the average of them?
   
   
2. How to test the pH of products of different consistency? A watery toner seems straigtforward, but others less so.
   
   

• Foaming cleanser - may be a repeat of ChanYong's question up there.
  
• Toner
  
• Emulsion/Milk
  
• Cream/Gel

Dessicant (aka silica gel beads) have can only absorb so much moisture before they need to be recharged. Keep them away from children as ingesting them could be bad.

https://www.thoughtco.com/are-silica-gel-beads-poisonous-608408

I haven't tried these, but they might be useful.

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-7886-Replacement-Desiccant/dp/B000OUXA2Q/ref=pd_sim_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000OUXA2Q&pd_rd_r=V446JJ6FX2SNWPKM9R3F&pd_rd_w=dhWyv&pd_rd_wg=VSJkC&psc=1&refRID=V446JJ6FX2SNWPKM9R3F&dpID=41tG3lgYUdL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

https://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Indicating-Rechargeable-Functional-Microscopes/dp/B00YS3AEYC

Regarding the ammo can storage: I found a cheap way of doing this by buying the gel stuff off Amazon plus some cans. Links below. I opened up one of my ammo cans a few months later to get some ammo out and I checked the color of the gel out of curiosity. I was surprised at how much the color had changed (indicating moisture absorption). I live in a dry climate and did not expect much change.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013L2Z2MY/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GE5GGZC/

Like these?
https://www.amazon.com/38mm-Poly-Seal-Screw-gallon/dp/B0064OFP88/ref=asc_df_B0064OFP88/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064OFP88/

These fit on all the carboy's that I've bought.

Cheap ph meter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501379477&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+meter&psc=1
If you live in a legal state, just buy a used digital Mh/hps system preferably 1000w.

Use advanced nutrients
http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutrient-calculator/

You can also reuse Star San. Get some litmus strips and test.

> It's an acidic cleaner. Once the pH rises above 3, it should be replaced. Color or cloudiness is not an appropriate indicator of potency. (per Five Star Chemicals - makers of StarSan)

Edit: cheap from Amazon here.

Mine was under 5 and over 4 and it's a brand new bottle. This happened to me before, where new products, but old bottles of products were not testing right. I had bought new test strips. So I got a different brand of test strips and re-tested everything a week later and the results came out right. .My experience is that not all test strips are equal.

Husband is a chemE. said test strips are not definative because of light and heat and external influences. Never mind manufacturers. He recommends the brand PH Hydrion. Of course, he hasn't worked in a lab in decades. But he remembered everyone using them in the lab. He also said he never used test strips, he used PH meters.

Tap water or distilled. It will depend on where you start with the water among other things.

To be sure this.

Yep - that’ll do the trick! I added desiccant packets https://amzn.to/33ZJGEP and 3m anti-tarnish tabs https://amzn.to/2JmYndd

These sticks work well for a simple yes, no on lead :
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cMHQCb54ED1AQ

Not sure if there is an equivalent for cadmium though.

I ordered it yesterday, but I won't have a way to test the pH...

Actually, I'll buy some strips to test this product is someone can point me in the direction of some that don't suck. I can't seem to find the ones that OP used though. Would these work?

I have yet to have issues with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBUH4RC/

Works well, accurate (compared with other meters and stays right on)

So I've been storing my lenses in Pelican Cases, and I've been using these 40 Gram Desiccant Packs to help keep them dry.

I was just wondering if it's possible for the pelican cases to be too dry? I was reading somewhere that if the humidity is too low, that it can dry up lubricants and what not? Is that true?

Don't bother with strips. They usually don't have the range/precision you need. You can buy a digital meter for really cheap on Amazon if you really want one.

No problem.

You might look into getting a book of universal indicator strips like these to test products. You dip the paper into the product and compare the color to the color-pH legend. This gives you a ballpark pH that is good enough for this application. For ex it wont give you a pH of 5.5 but you will be able to tell it's between 5 and 6.

When you mix something with water, it can change the pH by a lot so I test the cleanser while it's on my face and lathered with water rather than straight out of the container. Tap water pH also varies a lot, which in turn affects the pH of your product if it gets mixed with tap water.

These PH Test strips would do the job just fine. Shave soap should have a PH between 7 and 10. Outside that range may sting you face.

Yeah and if you're worried about lead, there's cheap lead test kits on Amazon - https://www.amazon.ca/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501697871&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+test

I don't have that cleanser or I would test it for you. Just a HU, I bought these testing strips from Amazon, and now I test all the things!

I can't get an exact 3.6 for example, but for our purposes, it works.

I can't tell what's actually in the product, so maybe. You can get generic silica gel desiccant which will do the trick. You will have to recharge the beads every so often. Others on here will tell you that you should actively dehydrate your PVA using a food dehydrator, for example, or your oven if the temp goes low enough. Then you can store the PVA using silica gel to keep any moisture away. If you are good about keeping the silica gel dry then I think it will pull some moisture out of the PVA with enough time. I specifically use this and I 3D printed some containers to hold it in inside a gasket-lined plastic box.

Conversely to this, I use these ph strips I've never done honey, but in all my vegetable ferments i've always gotten readings at 4 or less. So even in a .5 margin of error you're still under the 4.6 pH for botulism safety.

> https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-Laboratories-Testing-Range-Environment/dp/B002ZYVU4O

Do you think something this accurate for use on a plant that is not having issues? I have the same brand of strips that covers the entire spectrum, so obviously less accurate. I usually get the PH around 6, airing on the side of 6.5 if possible. Should I be going for something more accurate?

You can also buy desiccant in bulk and that’s literally its entire purpose. To absorb moisture.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qd0tDb54HBNDZ

Buy one of these

pH Test Strips for Kombucha

People talk down about these all the time but mine has stayed calibrated and functional since christmas. The secret apparently is storing it how you use it vertically

Jellas Pocket Size PH Meter / PH Tester / Mini Water Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Hydroponics, Aquariums, Swimming Pools, PH 0-14.0 Measuring Range, 0.1PH Resolution (Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6B6.ybMED6HWD

You could always get this as well

General Hydroponics GH1514 General Hydroponics Ph Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tD6.yb5VT9XYB

https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3TV0LA88HKTL&keywords=silica+packets+for+moisture&qid=1559067138&s=gateway&sprefix=silica%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4

Bought this one for last years outdoor crop.

https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC

Worked as expected. I harvested in Mid Oct-mid Nov. and had not touched it since then. Yesterday I tested and my tap measured 8.2, exactly what it measured all summer.

"Dry & Dry" (1 Gallon) Premium Blue Indicating(Blue to Pink) Silica Gel Desiccant Beads(Industry Standard 2-4 mm) - Rechargeable(7.5 LBS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013L2Z2MY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HHYXDbJ2P4TT3

WiseDry makes "rechargeable" food grade ones in different sizes. For folks new to food storage, keep in mind that moisture packets are different from oxygen absorbers.

Dessicant Silica Gel packets will absorb moisture inside that case. I think these ones can be baked a little while to evaporate the moisture out of them and reuse them.

pH Test Strips for Kombucha Brewing 0-6 (0.5 Intervals) 100pc Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTH14XZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zW9KDbJJSDGKR

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FYGXUC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1397842116&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40

Here's the test I bought. It comes with two testing sticks.

I bought mine off Amazon!

These are the ones I originally found but i live in Canada and didnt want to deal with cross border shipping on a little mom an pop shop, so I found basically the same thing on amazon

Apartment or house? In a house, keep the games in the driest, most temperature-consistent part of it, probably your basement. Either way, invest in a small dehumidifier. Some people also swear by silica packets for mold prevention, stash a few in each of your game boxes.

I had the single paper strips which are very basic and not good if you want more precision. I moved on to these 4-variations which have provided me with much more accuracy.

Don't use rice, it will leave a gross residue that will get into all the books and crannies.

Use silica gel, like the packets that come in clothes and shoe boxes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_fzVTDb5HMDS35

Here what I use, it allows for 2 rolls in a bag or larger rolls.

Hefty Slider Jumbo Storage Plastic Bags - 2.5 Gallon Size, 3 Boxes of 15 Bags (45 Total) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741C6N93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ck3ZCb48A269W

Plus these for inside the bag

5 Gram [60 Packs] Silica Gel Packets Rechargeable Desiccant Pouches with Color Indicating Beads Reusable Moisture Absorbers Bags for Gun Safes Closet Tools Storage Food Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7V19JE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Bl3ZCb4H14CA1

Yeast dies at what? 140° - 145°F? I can make a sous vide water bath with a circulator at about 150°F+ to pasteurize in for about an hour. The type of caps I have for my 1 Gallon Carboys are 38mm Poly Seal Screw Caps. No idea if they would be strong enough for the pressure though.

If your soil is peat or wood based and you have no liming in there then pH or Ca/Mg deficiency may be an issue. I use these pH test strips to get an idea of my soil pH.

I’ve heard of people using bulk desiccants such as this

https://www.amazon.com/Interteck-Packaging-Indicating-Desiccant-Industry/dp/B01G5NTCWW

It can even be re used after, and is dirt cheap.

7.4

Might want to consider one of these if you are color blind. pH Meter

These have been just fine for me, and it is more economical. I bought 2 of them, one as a back up. They both hold their calibration rather well, and I won't be quite as pissed if I break one as if I had spent $80 on it.

Color indicating silica. I dumped a 5 pound bucket into my dry box: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5NTCWW/

I would just buy those card boxes you mentioned in the OP and limit how much you shift things around, it is not the boxes that are causing the scuffling as much as it's just the cards rubbing together.

I also bought these silicon moisture packs and put them in the boxes to reduce moisture the cards take in which cuts down on risk of having the cards warp

Regarding pH testing...

I'd like to test a bunch of my stuff, but the Cleanser pH guide recommends a multicolored pH tester. The single color testers are much cheaper such as here.

Is it bad if I choose this one? If I choose it, should I not share my results on the list?

I collect cast iron. Most of the time if the pan has been used for lead casting the patina/seasoning will be completely destroyed and that's a good indicator. However, If I'm extra suspicious and paranoid, which I am most of the time, I'll use a 3M lead test kit to test multiple pans at once, finishing by checking the kit against the control they include. That'll let you sleep at night.

As others have said, starbucks coffee usually gives away old stuff for free (bring a rubermaid tote or your car will likely get some unwanted coffee juice leaked through). The vinegar thing depends on the water you use. If your water comes from an aquifer, its going to have some (maybe lots) of calcium in it that causes it to be basic. You want it to be acidic, hence the vinegar. The problem is that vinegar (acetic acid) is a weak acid and not very concentrated. If you don't use enough acid to neutralize the base in the water, you're still going to be screwed. The easy thing to do is to buy some litmus paper on amazon (try here). My water is so hard I had to get concentrated hydrochloric acid (roughly 12 M, and they sell it at lowes surprisingly!) It would take about 8 mL of conc HCl to 4 gallons of hard water in order to drive down the pH.

Don't use softened water (too much salt!). What I ended up doing is collecting rain water in a rain barrel. Water your plants daily (they like well drained moist soil).

A big thing to keep an eye out for... Look at the color of your leaves. If you're doing the pH thing right, your leaves will be a nice green color but if the soil/water is too basic (too high on the pH scale), they'll start to turn red. When this starts to happen you need to correct your problem quickly or you're screwed for the season. Once the leaves turn red, they don't normally turn back, however, new growth will grow green. If the plants aren't happy, they won't make fruit.

If you have other questions, hit me up. I'm doing this for my fourth year and I'm finally getting most of the kinks worked out of my system. Lots of failures but I'm expecting much better results this year! Best of luck!!

Even in this thread there seems to be some disagreement over it! From what I'm understanding in the other comments, carbonation itself causes a drop in ph, which will damage enamel (see: pH levels source and 'danger zone' links from the dentist student), so yes, carbonated water, on its own, will damage enamel through changing acidity of your mouth (another peer-reviewed source that I found through browsing, since I prefer to give academic sources where possible lol; on the other hand, some brands of seltzer water apparently actively try to balance the pH of their drinks to correct for the acidification produced by carbonation, so that they are no longer damaging. Ultimate recommendation is probably to pick up some litmus strips for cheap on Amazon, check the pH of your drink yourself, and if it's acidic, mitigate any enamel damage by drinking with a straw and rinsing your mouth after drinking the beverage.