Reddit mentions: The best marine electronics

This project for my 2006 TJ may have been easy for someone who had a lot of experience with it, but I hadn't wired an Amp since high school so it was certainly interesting and at times challenging.

I wanted to keep the OEM Head Unit because it looks cool and it doesn't advertise the fact that there's now $450 of aftermarket audio parts in the soft top TJ. Plus I think it looks cool.

Problem 1 - There's no Aux Audio In, so we fixed that with a kit designed to use the port for a multi-CD changer (I bet a lot of kids don't even know what the heck that is but it would have been a fun addition back before MP3 players):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007CK30I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TXP6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I stashed the input into one of the two cigarette lights - the little bulb actually sort of fit as if it was designed for it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071R4H85Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Problem 2 - I hated the look of the sound bar so I'd ripped it out, leaving only the 2 OEM speakers in the dash. I wanted a lot more power and a lot better sound, but I was worried about space, moisture/water, and getting speakers in without a sound bar.

The solution:

1 - Jam 2 4x4 inch Rockford Fosgates into the rear corners, zipping them down and then zipping their covers over them. This turned out to look really cool (they're not pictured) but I will need to figure out a solution to cover them up in case it rains.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HWF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 - Replace the OEM Dash 4x6 inch speakers with some great 4x6's from Rockford Fosgate that can really handle a lot of power:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G9DO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These went in pretty clean with zip ties because they ship with this cool perforated plastic oval thing that you can chop bits and pieces out until you get a good shape. This was helpful because the OEM drilled holes were in a funny spot and definitely didn't line up (every other speaker I've ever installed lined up so it's good that RF thought of this).

3 - Now the tricky part - Kenwood makes this killer little 4x100 Amp that's designed for motorcycles, boats and 4-wheelers... I thought it would be perfect for the TJ and I was definitely right. It fit perfectly into the back of the Glove Compartment with absolutely no drama.

What was dramatic was the whole wiring job. Obviously everything had to be cut and spliced because the OEM Head Unit on the 2006 TJ does not come with Audio Red/White Outputs. That meant cutting/stripping each output wire from the TJ and cutting the Red/White inputs for the Amp and splicing those, then stripping the wires outbound to the speakers and patching them into the output of the Amp.

Hopefully it won't be too much of a problem that I jammed the power into the fuse for the Radio - that's a 10 amp mini-fuse so actually I think it will be perfect to complement the 15 amp mini-fuse that's already in the Amp wiring harness.

I have a bit of an issue with grounding - I grounded off on the same location that the Head Unit does, on the right hand side of the dash. At peak power, this is causing the Amp to come un-grounded and turn off. What I did was throttle the fader off the rear speakers by 30% and this seemed to resolve the problem with the downside being I'm getting 30% less sound from the 4x4's, but... luckily the 4x6's sound amazing so this isn't really a big deal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JEC0YFQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The best part about this setup is that really you cannot tell when looking at the Dashboard that all this audio horsepower is in the TJ, and even the rear speakers remain pretty hidden behind the rollcage.

I realize I should have taken pictures throughout the install but oh well.

Hi there. Congratulations on your new boys! I love Rex rats! I've been a ratty mom for over 12 years. I currently have 3 males, all dumbos, one of which is a Rex. The best advice I can give is to make sure to socialize your new babies and let them get used to you, your environment, as well as each other. (I'm glad to hear you got more than one!) Pouches are a great start for that, so you are definitely on the right track. I love playing around and interacting with my boys, but I also make sure to sit back and let them explore on their own, too.

Having a good cage is crucial. I recently got space pods and they love them! Having it be plastic instead of fabric cuts down on smell, too. I always make sure they have a bunch of things to chew on and play with. Make sure they have good bedding as well. I use recycled newspaper and crinkle paper.

Diet plays a big role. I feed my guys mostly Mazuri blocks and Oxbow with some vegetables (they love broccoli and frozen peas). I try to stay cognizant of treats, since they're mostly sugar and fat. (Males are prone to weight gain, so you gotta watch out.) Fruits work really well as a treat for training.

If you have any questions as you guys get adjusted, feel free to PM me.

(Also, sorry all the hyperlinks are to Amazon haha. It's what Google pulls up.)

Congratulations again :)

I wouldn't bother doing speakers without an amp. Buying nice speakers and not amping them would be like buying excellent football boots, but playing with a ball of tape.

That first amp looks rather large. Size doesn't indicate power, so I would go smaller if you can. The thing I'd look for when amp shopping would be the CEA rating for power. The CEA-2006 rating is important. If we look at an excellent amp like the Focal FPS 4160, the power on the marketing sheet is 4x160W, but CEA power is only 4x120W. If we look at a cheaper amp like the Pioneer GM-A5602, it's marketed power is 2x450W, but the CEA numbers are half, sitting at 2x225W.

Sonic Electronix has a good video on the benefits of CEA rating.

If you could stretch the budget, or find a good deal on it, Focal's itty bitty Impulse 4.320 puts out 4x55W clean, CEA rated power. You can bridge it to 2x110W if you get a slightly better front speaker. The Focal unit is awesome, but pricier than the ones you list. You'll likely find it for about £160. It's like the size of a pen. I love the piece for stealthy installs.

If you are set on the £100 limit, then I would look at the Kenwood KAC-M1804 if you want smaller and better, or the Pioneer GM-A3602 if you want to save some, and are OK with larger.

I wouldn't remove the rear speakers, I would just get them unplugged. Unless you regularly have backseat passengers. You're way better off spending what you would spend on the rear speakers on better fronts. If it is any help, I drive a 5 meter long SUV, and I only have front speakers, albeit really good ones.

I'm looking to put together a festival setup that doesn't have to get crazy loud, but just decent loudness to play up a small campsite with some good tunes. I've been searching around a lot lately, and so far, my ideas look like this.

Get 4x Visaton BG 20

Get a Pyle PMRA400

Run it all off a car battery, at least 60Ah, like this one (In Danish).

Make up my own custom box, plug in a phone, and have some nice portable audio.

Again, this doesn't have to be a top-of-the-line audio system, but being able to play somewhat loudly, preferably enough to also bring to an inside house party and get some good quality audio, would be amazing.

My question being, how well suited would you say my current choice of amp and speakers are? Should I get something else? Of course this is all about maximising output-to-power ratio, as it'll be driven off a battery and not an always-on power source.

My preferred places of buying will be Thomann as they have lots of gear for relatively good prices, and of course Amazon (UK version as .com doesn't ship to Denmark)

---power supply:
I just ordered one of these 1100/1400 watt (depends if you give it 120v or 240v) Supermicro PWS-1K41P-1R power supplies for $25, hoping I will be able to turn it on when it gets here! What I currently have, and am super happy with, is a 460 watt HP DPS-460EB. Second one down on this page is where I found out how to power it up. These server power supplies have one giant 12v output (there may be -12v or other voltages but at tiny amounts), perfect for car amps.

I had to solder a wire between the first and fourth pads - as shown in the photos and schematic above - so that it would turn on when plugged in. I might put a switch in there, so I left the wire long. Also soldered some 10 guage power wires to it. That's plenty for 500 watts over a few feet or less, according to a voltage drop calculator. It's nearly silent at low power, pulls six watts when idle, and gracefully handles overloads: I didn't try waiting to see if it would come back up on it's own, but when I overloaded mine with a battery tester it simply turned off. I let it cool and it came back up like normal afterward. Super happy with it; I've powered a kenwood amp wired up to make 350 watts, which worked great, and I'm currently running a smaller infinity with better controls as it's plenty for my room. The only hard part is soldering to the big bare copper pads, I think you need a high power soldering iron. Also some of them have loud fans, apparently. This video is where I got started, and including mention of a current-sharing pin which I sadly don't think most of them have, but would let you run multiple PSUs in parallel.

There are lots of people doing this sort of thing to run high power RC battery chargers, as well as amps, fwiw.


---Amp:
The Rockville RXM-T2 apparently does 1200 real RMS watts bridged at 4 ohms. Dynomometer tested here. I spent some time looking through cheap amps that have test resuts, and nothing else I could find is even close at 4ohm, for under $150. The crossover in it may be BS, or low-order, according to reviews, and it doesn't actually handle 2 ohm bridged like its supposed to, which doesn't inspire confidence.

I’d say for the most part it blends in but you’ll hear a bit more vocal or bass depending on the speaker.

The only issue is there are a lot of logistical problems in doing so with this car in terms of plug and play easy install.

Assuming you have the HIFI system with the tweeter (small speaker by the mirror) and midrange(bigger speaker by the door grip) in the front door there are two (BMW propriety) connections on the midrange speaker. Unless you get a speaker crossover or speaker wire splitter, you’ll lose the tweeter (tweeter has a bass blocker, that little cylinder in the wire which acts like a crossover).

EX:
(Midrange gets signal and also passes signal to tweeter 1)

BMW Connection 1 ——->Tweeter
Speaker ———-| Midrange Speaker
Wire —> Connection 2
(2 gets the speaker signal)

*Welp can’t make a good diagram on mobile. Maybe on a desktop this looks better.

A cheap setup for the front is:

NOTE: This is a coaxial setup where all sound is in one place, not bad but the component setup is usually seen as better (what’s in the car now) because it splits the speakers apart creating a better sound stage.

To not hack into the OEM wiring:

61138373583 - End Piece which goes into existing Speaker End.

61130006664 - One Pin which go into Speaker Wire End Piece (you need two for every end piece)

Cheap 4” Speaker and adapter mount

Rockford Fosgate R14X2 Prime 4-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qF4WDb4F28S6Y

OEM Hifi AMP can put out 25W at 4 OHM’s
Speaker above is 30W at 4 OHM’s RMS. The difference is minimal and you won’t start clipping, over taxing the amp and speaker unless you’re at full volume it. Rockford is a great brand overall.

Depth of the Speaker is 43.6 mm

Exact Fit Front Speaker Adapter Spacer Rings For BMW Vehicles - SAK076_4-1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M755KAD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IS4WDb4JV45YG

You put the adapter over the back of the speaker sandwich it onto the door. I used the same one in my install. Therefore the depth doesn’t matter. If you front mount the adapter you’ll be at 6.35 mm so lightly over the depth with the above speaker but you won’t run into any issues.


Congrats on the door lock working!!!!

Hi anime_daisuki,

You’re in the right subreddit for this topic, by golly! Per chance have you found the sidebar guides, and particularly the Antenna Guide: https://www.reddit.com/r/cordcutters/wiki/antenna

It mentions some about VHF and UHF. I’ll add that for High-VHF reception (what is listed in TVFool’s “Real” column as values 7 through 13), an antenna needs one or more elements 3 feet wide. UHF wavelengths (“Real” 14+) are narrower, and smaller antennas do okay with those.

<br />
Thanks for the insight you’ve offered, in particular regarding that it’s only a 12’ coax feeding the HDHR alone.  That means you’re not losing much signal—and there’s no need to try adding a pre-amp nor any amplification.<br />
<br />
By wanting to stay in the attic, I’m like the others in being concerned about going too small, since the antenna’s gain and incoming signal strength have to overcome the roofing and construction materials density.  Hence the mention of possibly losing 50%.  To that end, I’ll second the suggestion of the 30-2475 added in via UHF/VHF combiner (note it’s not just a typical splitter).<br />
<br />
However, if you’re up for experimenting, realizing that these two options may not work, I’ll offer the possibilities of:<br />
<br />
*  VHF add on ~$20:  https://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Direct-VHF-1-VHF-Retrofit/dp/B00LHFRCMG<br />
<br />
It has a UHF/VHF combiner already integrated.  So you’d feed your existing antenna into it, then hopefully find a sweet spot in the attic to place/mount this VHF dipole to lock in ABC.  Notice how it’s a single element, so it doesn’t have any gain.  But might do better than the VHF capabilities of what you currently have.<br />
<br />
*  Replace with or add this ~3’ x 3’ RCA &amp;lt;$50:  https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Mini-Yagi-Outdoor-Antenna/dp/B01N4UASN0<br />
<br />
You’d point the narrow end toward the towers.  This aerial does okay for many people, and has a better VHF design than what you currently have.  If you try it alone and lose some channels, then link this to your current antenna with one of those special UHF/VHF combiners.  (And if you’re going to stay under a roof, this combiner or similar would work, since weather won’t reach it:  https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-vhf-uhf-gold-plated-splitter-combiner .)<br />
<br />
~~~~~~~~<br />
<br />
Lastly, a roof installation might not be hundreds (plural) of dollars.  Perhaps call this service and see if the &amp;lt;$150 package would cover the channels of interest to you:  <br />
<br />
https://www.airtv.net/antenna-installation/<br />
<br />
Good Luck!  ~~  Statmanmi

Gonna go a different route from the other guys. This isn't the exact one I have, but I'd look at Humminbird's Kayak line of fish finders instead of their ICE line or larger boat stuff.

The HELIX 5 looks like a good option at a good price: https://www.amazon.com/Humminbird-410210-1-Helix-Chirp-Finder/dp/B01M2VLBQF - or the NON-GPS Version + the Navionics App (15$ish, IIRC?) on your phone: https://www.amazon.com/Humminbird-410210-1-Helix-Chirp-Finder/dp/B01MCWIC5H?th=1

Just about any sonar you get nowadays will have a digital 'flasher' dial as one of the screen options and I've found it works just as well as a FL8/VX-1. On top of that, you can actually use it in open water because it has a normal 'sonar' just like you'd see on an open water boat.

Truth be told, I've ended up using the open water sonar more often than the flasher dial anyway. It gives you a little bit of 'history' so you can see what types of movements you were doing when you finally triggered that fish to raise up off the bottom and inspect your bait. Typically the open water sonar has a vertical column along the right side of the screen that acts exactly like a flasher would, so I just use that so I get both the flasher aspect as well as the history aspect.

You'll need to get some sort of a 'conversion kit' to make the flasher work properly for ice fishing, but that kit usually includes a carrying bag, mounting platform, etc, just like you'd get with an FL8 or similar, and shouldn't cost more than ~100$.

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZOZRLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zrzCybCMQ31D1

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7G1TPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tHzCybJXA9DDS

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XLzCybRKTEWY2

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJzCybAXEKGZV

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MKzCyb1CT1SCX

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

Compared to me, you have a lot of stations with a pretty strong signal. It might be worth trying out a simple flat indoor antenna that is easy to put up discreetly indoors. Channel 2 WESH is a VHF high station so you may have trouble getting that without a VHF antenna.

If that does not pull in enough stations, You could try what I use on one of my TVs that I have had great luck with. I use a DB2e with a VHF retrofit kit Mounted on a Paper towel holder that is placed on a shelf above my TV. Those antenna's would also work as outdoor antennas someday if you ever move somewhere else. Also, I know the paper towel holder thing sounds crazy, but it looks pretty good and has worked great for me for years.

I don't know if my base sonata had tweeters in the first place, but the ones inside the dashboard up against the inside of the windshield were pretty small. I don't know what they're rated at but I'm powering them just off the stock head unit, it was just plug and play. I'm sure if you went with an aftermarket amp you would get better sound but I didn't want to mess with all of that. my sub is also self powered so external amp for that either. here's links to the speakers I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0LRUM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HWCM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

side note, the smaller in dash speakers made by polk audio made a huge difference, they were more expensive than the larger door speakers I got from rockford, if I could do it over again I'd spend a little more and go with polk audio speakers for the doors as well, or at least the higher end rockford fosgate rather than the $35 ones.

Thank you for the detailed reply. I think you might be correct with the placing the DVR is the attic. While the house is a cape style so more a crawlspace then attic it is still pretty hot in the summer. The recast is expensive but it seems to be a pretty good solution as I hate station guide charges and already have firetv's on my tv sets and Echo's throughout the house. Going with a HDhomerun and Plex or Tablo might save some money but an integrated solution might save a few headaches.

​

There are no close neighbors with antenna's but the ones in nearby neighborhoods are aiming them at Canada or south. I will say though that the antenna's I usually see are the old style and large. I wonder how many are just up there for historical reasons.

​

What do you think of the option of DB8e with retro kit for VHF pointed south and other side directed toward Canada? I would rather go a little overkill and install once, maybe get away without an amplifier.

https://www.amazon.com/Element-Bowtie-Indoor-Outdoor-Antenna/dp/B00C4XVOOC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1537636619&sr=8-7&keywords=Clearstream+4

https://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Direct-VHF-1-VHF-Retrofit/dp/B00LHFRCMG/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LHFRCMG&pd_rd_r=6905f674-be8b-11e8-8775-61087e003d3c&pd_rd_w=aQg5l&pd_rd_wg=XMnOL&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=7TKQZWJ7M6FH8BVARK7G&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=7TKQZWJ7M6FH8BVARK7G

Okay. So from what you told me I have put together this so far:

I envision a 4-way speaker system with two speakers aiming at about 45 degrees to the front and sides. And then two speakers aiming to the rear.

If I got 4 of these speakers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BZFSYA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This amp: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5T0T4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ADCZTTE1BO460

This power supply: http://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4-Prismatic-Battery-12.8V-40Ah-512Wh-10C-Rate-without-Balancing.aspx

Then what else would I need? The most convient way to source music is from our phones, so we have been usin a male 3.5mm to 2 RCA cable. What would be the best option for a mixer or receiver to control volume etc.?

Thanks a lot for your help. I really appreciate it.

I have these:
KOHLER K-8033-CP Soundtile Speakers(Pair of Speakers), Polished Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DNXBKE/

We added them as part of a remodel. They’re connected to an amp that has an echo on line in. We use Alexa to control what we listen to. It’s decadent but sounds great and easy to operate. Highest Wife Acceptance Factor score to date for me.

speakers


amp

Not sure about the ohm of the speakers, but what would I gain by using all 4 channels 1 speaker per channel as opposed to my current set up which is outputting 2 speakers on the first 2 channels, I does work and sounds great, but I was just wanting to make sure I get the most out of it.

I built a simpit that has two USB sound cards in it running seven channels: chassis, pedals, seat bottom, and seat back. USB sound cards are not recommended, but I wanted my simpit to be somewhat separated from my computer, and it's working for me.

It took some fiddling/tuning to get it right, but it really makes a huge difference in the immersion. I especially love being able to feel the gears shifting, and being able to tell from that how smoothly the gears changed. Without it turned on the car just feels dead now.

I do wish I had used larger transducers for the chassis corners, as they are on the underside of 5/8" MDF base. Seat and pedals are great. I used the following:

• 7 x Dayton Audio TT25-8
  
• 2 x Pyle PLMRA400 4x400W
  
• 2 x StarTech.com 7.1 USB Audio Adapter
  
  It's these StarTech USB sound cards that needed to be in 5.1 mode. In Quadraphonic I don't believe I was getting any channel separation in the SimVibe output.

You definitely do NOT want any Dual product. The subwoofers sound like crap, don't take rated power, and will blow within weeks. For a cheap setup that will last for a while i'd say something like this:

http://woofersetc.amazonwebstore.com/SD2-12D2-Sundown-Audio-12-Dual/M/B005ZH1WKK.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=froogle

and this

http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOPIPE-AP15001D-1500W-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B002RE87UC

That amp puts out 1500rms @1ohm, so it will leave plenty of headroom if you want to ever get another sub. In my opinion they are the best amplifiers for the money. I have been using one for quite a while and they put out rated power, sound decent, and are pretty efficient.

General rule of thumb is that amps in a similar price range with similar power output sound pretty much the same.

Even across price ranges there's not a tremendous difference between amps at low output levels, just like a $90K Mercedes AMG won't get you around a crowded mall parking lot much better than a $17K Nissan Versa. Aside from the heated seats and overall coolness factor, the performance difference between the two is not really felt until you start approaching highway speeds or really pushing their performance past polite limits.

Amps should not be fucking around with the sound. They should just be delivering it accurately. Just like your cable box or bluRay player should not be trying to jack up the colors or brightness on your TV shows: they should simply be accurately relaying the signal.

I have plenty of experience with car audio

It's not too different. One thing that may surprise you is the lower "power ratings"... like, why can one buy a "400-Watt" Pyle car audio amp for $37 but a reputable home theater amp costs more has has "less watts?"

Short answer there is that power ratings for Class D amps, which I believe 100% of car audio uses at this point, are always really inflated.

There is nothing wrong with Class D amps and a lot of home audio amps are Class D as well, just know that there's no real standard for those power output numbers and manufacturer's claims are particularly wacky for Class D amps.

Or I could get a well known (vintage?) stereo receiver from the 1970s for example a Yamaha CR-420

I wouldn't buy an amp this old unless it was cheap and you just wanted to experiment. Electronics from the 1970s are pretty hit or miss. After a few decades capacitors dry out or otherwise fail. This either changes the sound of the amp or makes it stop working entirely.

I can buy a new Sony STR-DH130, or a 7-15 year old Denon (or other) surround receiver with 90 w per channel that was originally $900 for $50-100 on Craigslist

Either one should get the job done but I'd probably go with the Denon. CL is a goldmine for home theater receivers, since people sell perfectly good ones all the time when they need newer HDMI features.

The Denon will also have a proper crossover feature, if you add a subwoofer at some point. That lets you send the low freqs to the sub, and the mids and highs to your main speakers. Adding a sub to the Sony is possible but more of a pain and the results won't be quite as nice.

Thank you everyone for your insight.

I will be ordering the DB8e- I like the lifetime warranty. We get pretty strong winds and a lot of of snow where I live so I could see the warranty eventually being needed.

For VHF I am thinking about added the VHF retrofit kit. It seems to have great reviews despite it being so small.

https://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Direct-VHF-1-VHF-Retrofit/dp/B00LHFRCMG

Lastly should I add a LTE filter? I realize after the spectrum transition a lower frequency LTE filter will be needed

> I am looking for a sonar that does fish finding, tracks my routes with a GPS map,

Any with GPS do this. the Lowrance Hook "X" series just have a super basic white basemap with no way to upgrade. The regular Hook series has upgradable maps.

Humminbird Helix units have maps you can buy, the base map isn't bad.



> plots the bottom contour of the lakes AND while records it (update the actual GPS map).

Humminbird has Autochart Live. You need to buy their "special" SD card to actually store the data, but it does hold 8 hours in the unit without needing the card. It shows up immeditely on the unit. Autochart Live has been the most accurate one I've seen so far. It plots vegetation and bottom hardness as well (I think the Garmin/Lowrance do this as well now).

Garmin has Quickdraw that you can just use any SD card to record to. It shows straight away on the unit. If you're looking to save some dough, even the cheap models have Quickdraw.

Lowrance has Genesis Live mapping, but I don't think it's availabel on their Hook units. It does the same thing. The Hook units can upload their sonar data to the Genesis website to create maps, but I don't think it's live on the Hook ones. Maybe someone who has a Hook can let me know. I think it's only the HDS and Elite units with live mapping.

Get one of these and run it off one of these.

or

Get one of these and run it off one of these.


For a wiring kit get this.

For a box I really highly recommend building one yourself. Since you're on a very tight budget that may not be possible. If you don't want to build your own box just search amazon for a prefab sealed or ported box for a 12" sub.

Also, you can downsize to a 10" sub to save some money. You will be sacrificing a bit of bass though.

EDIT: OP, I didn't take the subs voice coils into consideration when recommending the above. So instead of using that Sundown SD 2 ohm. If you get that amp, you should get the 4ohm version of the SD. The Sundown E will match with that Kicker amp fine. Thanks /u/Jdoorz for pointing that out.

This has been great so far: http://www.amazon.com/Vexilar-SP100-SonarPhone-Transducer-Pod/dp/B00CJJBM66 I've used it a handful of times in my kayak and I have to say it was pretty awesome.

I'm just using a marine amplifier behind the Pi. That does all the fun stuff you would need a head unit for, even has a volume knob but it's pretty ugly so I left it alone and just use the gpio volume control.

I went with a marine amplifier because it's about as small as you can get so I am able to stick it behind the dash, it's more powerful than most headunits too so it's not a bad choice. Here's the one I use Pyle Hydra Marine Amplifier - Upgraded Elite Series 400 Watt 2 Channel Micro Amplifier - Waterproof, GAIN Level Controls, RCA Stereo Input, 3.5mm Jack & Volume Control (PLMRMP1A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HH9FIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_teiSBbGEQT236

for the rear I switched it out withthese.
for the front
and
these adapters are great if you don't want to slice the cables.

also. you will need a spacer for the Rockford.

I would recommend the Polk Audio over the Rockford.

Edit: and they work with the stock head unit without an Amp. I am an amateur so I didn't want to replace the stock radio/dash .
and too lazy to add an amp.

Good luck!

Here are the 6x9's I just put in the back, and the 6.5 inch pair in the front. They aren't anything too crazy but imo they sound pretty good, and have a decent amount of bass. I think perhaps the amount of clarity they have compared to the stock speakers drew my attention to the lack of the deep deep bass.

Thanks so much!!! Would you be able to recommend an amp? I really have no clue what a good one is.
Edit: Something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-PLMRA400-4-Channel-400W-Amplifier/dp/B000N5T0T4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480227641&sr=8-1&keywords=4+channel+amp

I've been happy with pioneer speakers. Don't spend too much on them, at some point spending an extra $100 on door speakers doesn't really make a difference. Something like these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HWCM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465009811&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=6.5+car+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZDTeKAdUL&ref=plSrch or these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A0LZHYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1465009811&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=6.5+car+speakers would be fine, just make sure you buy the right size speaker for your car.

Heres my take on kayaks, you are gonna only live once and if you buy a crap kayak its going to be harder to sell someone when its time to upgrade. So go with what fits your personality. For me, I took one look at this kayak https://bonafidekayaks.com/product/kayaks/ss107/ and new without even testing it first I was sold. I do recommend you test yours first though. Most kayak dealers have a way to do this usually. I mean if your going to seriously take up kayak fishing as a hobby and get a fish finder all that do it right. Here is my fishfinder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076W2N5TH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and battery setup https://dakotalithium.com/product/dakota-lithium-power-box-12v-10ah/?v=7516fd43adaa

Then do like wise and don't hold back my friend.

I got a 12V amp and 2 waterproof marine speakers on amazon (free student shipping) for a total of around $35, spraypainted black and mounted to the inside of my fairings with "permanent" outdoor 3M tape, couple thousand miles later still work fine. Doesn't sound great and will hurt your ears without helmet at full volume, but with helmet and earplugs I can still listen fine at 75 on the freeway :) looks like prices have gone up a bit but here are the links

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HJ931M/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PL9V4Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01

You should be able to use most usb dacs, heres an article to help you pick. If you are planning on taking out the old head unit you will also need an amp to drive the speakers, any auto amp that matches your speakers should be fine. If you are going for 4 speakers this one should be ok.

edit: after looking at the reviews of that amp, this one might be a better choice. Neither of these have enough power to drive a woofer, if you were going to add one.

I have that antenna. It works well for me at 65 miles with edge 1 and 2 signals on UHF. But it does not pick up VHF at all ... I needed to get the retrofit VHF kit as well ... https://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Direct-VHF-1-VHF-Retrofit/dp/B00LHFRCMG/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y0QHPA5YPG445Z8270Y4

With the VHF kit it worked fine outdoors. It did not work in the attic at all. It is going to my brother in law this weekend as I upgraded to a larger antenna for higher VHF gain.

You mentioned Rockford Fosgate. I looked on Amazon and they're only $40 for a pair which is cheaper than the Polk.

I'll probably go with this option unless someone else has another recommendation or speaks strongly for Polk.

Thanks for you help!

Honestly the budget is kinda low so it's not going to be all that great, but it will be better than stock. Here:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-X7600S-Receiver-SiriusXM-Compatible/dp/B00HIDBU2E/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426719584&sr=1-14&keywords=pioneer


http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1525X2-5-25-Inch-Coaxial/dp/B00BF6HX9E/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

RAM Mount RAM-B-111U 6 1/4" X 2" Marine Ram Universal Electronic Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144COPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ezaxDb7TTXBX9


I used this. And used screws to secure the Icom mount to that plate. The actual head unit attached to the mount vis magnets so removing it is as simple as pulling on it. They’re strong magnets though so they aren’t going anywhere unless I want it to.


OtterBox Defender Case for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GQCMK8K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

^ this is what is used to mount to the RAM bar that is mounted to the seat bolts.

The length of that RAM plate is identical to the magnet Icom plate. Combined, it looks like Icom included it with the setup.

Antennas Direct DB8e with a VHF Retrofit kit. Point one panel to 82 degrees magnetic, and the other to 140 degrees magnetic. Put the VHF combiner on the panel pointing to 140 degrees. As always, the higher the better.

As far as the wiring goes, yes, you can reuse the existing DirecTV coax and splitters. But if you have an 8 way splitter in, and want to use that many ports, you'll need to replace it with a 4 way distribution amplifier, and terminate the unused ports to prevent RF leakage.

You do need speakers, and an amplifier.

Here's a basic upgrade:

• 6.5" Speakers (4)
  
• Head unit of your choosing
  
• Wiring harness and mount kit. I'm not sure what 1996 needs.
  
  To install a subwoofer you will need:
  
  
• Amplifier. The more powerful the better. "RMS" wattage is generally how powerful it is, but companies exaggerate all the time. Try to find the real-world wattage numbers from online reviews so you know what you're getting.
  
• Subwoofer. The sustained RMS wattage should match your amplifier as closely as possible. Some advertise 1, 2, 4 or 8 ohms. Higher is better, but also need a more expensive amp. Shoot for around 2-4 ohms for a budget build.
  
• A subwoofer box. Appropriate for the size you selected.
  
• Wiring kit. You will have to run a beefy wire directly from the battery as well as connect the head unit to your amp.

I just replaced mine in my 06 without the Bose system. The removal and reinstallation is pretty straight forward. I do want to go back with some sound deadening material or a foam baffel to see if there is any better bass response.

I went with these "Rockford R168X2 Prime 6 x 8 Inches Full Range Coaxial Speaker, Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bCSfTbRya1zVA "
I also used​ these so I wouldn't have to cut the stock harness
" Metra 72-5600 Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OAB6BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_HhPhN5qVTdyWy "
You will need to crimp on new connectors for the speakers as the POS and neg are on the wrong sides.

Over all the speakers are on par with stock imo. They are a 50 rms speaker and the stock ones are 25 rms.

this is not the best price but its a good picture of it
http://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Direct-VHF-1-VHF-Retrofit/dp/B00LHFRCMG

ClearStream VHF addon antenna has a Coax Connection .. you run your UHF to this and then the out side connector goes to your TV

It should get you channel 7 and above within that 25 mile range but not any channel lower than that...

Low price is like $19 but that may require shipping .. so

I'm working with pretty limited space, but what if I installed something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JEC0YFQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A5ZRC4DPYV13E&psc=1

Along with this for the front speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Crutchfield-150Hz-Bass-Blocker-pair/dp/B0761TYTVR/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520125840&sr=1-1&keywords=150+hz+bass+blocker&dpID=51PSof3jEuL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch



--------

On a side note, I do have two of these sitting around that I could swap out in the front, if it'd be any better....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P86SQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For those speakers I would get something like this and find a good 12v power adapter...

what about these, I did hear anything over 2 way is not good and unnecessary
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3-6-5-Inch-Full-Range/dp/B00BF6HWCM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500052255&sr=1-2&keywords=car+speakers

"Silk dome pole mounted piezo tweeter"

also you think the planet audio 8 inch subwoofer is good? It is the only replacement as far as I know that will be aperfect fit, Unless I use the foam repair kit

Definitely try it without power to any amp. You seem to be well situated if your antenna is by a window on 2nd floor aimed northeast.

In a pinch you could use Locast.org to stream local stations.

ABC might need a VHF Retrofit Kit being on real channel 6. Channel 2 has some popular subchannels, but even the VHF Retrofit kit might not help there. No idea what was going through their heads when they picked these channels. Maybe they figured just the people within 10 miles were enough - screw everyone else.

What Channel 6 says

Or try some cheap rabbit ears - fully extending the telescoping parts. Try them horizontally as well.

I picked these up a few weeks ago to replace the set from previous owner, can't beat the price and they sound great.

Rockford Fosgate R165X3 Prime 6.5-Inch Full-Range 3-Way Coaxial Speaker (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3T9NybG05WKPH

Personally I'd spend a few more bucks and do this:

• Clarion Mobile Electronics CZ CD/MP3/WMA Receiver : http://amzn.com/B006WVX9R2
  
• Rockford Fosgate Prime Full Range 3-Way Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2: http://amzn.com/B00BF6HVGY
  
  I just figure if you're pulling your stock head unit out you might as well have bluetooth and other modern functions in it.
  
  Heck, you'll probably see a good change in sound just switching the speakers out. If they are the stock speakers in there they are cheap 16 year old cones. To make the speaker install a snap, just use these:
  
  
• Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles
  http://amzn.com/B001OAB6BW

There is such a thing as a 12-volt amplifier - check Amazon. It isn't fancy - it just has inputs and outputs, and sometimes a volume dial. You would plug your audio in into it, and it would pump the sound out to the vehicle speakers.

The factory CD/Radio would still work, but if you turned both of them on at once you'd hear both. It's not ideal to plug two sources into the same speaker, but it will work - you might have to check polarity (get the + and - the same for both inputs). You might also use an audio "mixer" to switch between the two sources. Find a smart stereo installer and they should be able to figure it out.

Putting another stereo in the glove box would also work.

If you want bluetooth, of course, you can add a bluetooth adapter.

Here is a simple 4-channel amp.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLMRA400-4-Channel-Waterproof-Amplifier/dp/B000N5T0T4

I bought an antenna from amazon but I didn't get the vhf attachment for it, so i picked up this one. http://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Direct-VHF-1-VHF-Retrofit/dp/B00LHFRCMG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

KARE 11 is a VHF station and you're attempting to tune it in using a UHF antenna. The antenna elements simply aren't long enough. On the typical "rabbit ear antenna with a little loop" the long elements pick up VHF while the little loop picks up UHF. Something like this would likely help. It's a VHF Dipole with a UHF/VHF Combiner

KMSP 9 is also a VHF channel but they simulcast on UHF and it shows up as 9.9.

Most of the other stations broadcast entirely in the UHF range: Digital channel 2 is actually broadcast on RF channel 34, WCCO 4 is broadcast on 32, KSTP 5 is broadcast on 35, etc.

>there are ceiling speakers designed for high moisture areas/bathrooms. Not marine speakers, but ones designed specifically for what you are doing.

Kohler's Soundtile Speakers are the only in-ceiling speakers that I can find that are designed for a bathroom. These speakers are polished chrome and are beautiful, but, at over $300 a pair, that's more than I am willing to spend on 2 speakers. Plus, they're only 4''.


I searched Amazon for "bathroom speakers", and all I got was the small, portable-type speakers, or exhaust fans/showerheads with a built-in speaker. I also searched Amazon for "moisture resistant speakers" and "wet rated speakers" and got nothing. It seems that my only option for in-ceiling speakers (at least on Amazon) are marine speakers?


>If your source is a desktop PC and located near the room where you're listening, save yourself a TON of headaches and just pull your speaker wire back to that space.

I will look into this solution (i.e., a hardwired input).

>You just aren't going to get proper stereo imaging in that environment. You'll hear "half the music" (only slight exaggeration) with stereo from most locations in that space.

I will only do one speaker per room, per your advice.

Just out of curiosity, do you mind explaining why I wouldn't get proper stereo imaging in my bathroom, and why I'd only hear half the music?

I don't understand why stereo speakers will fail miserably in this space. I mean, how is this much different than speakers in a car, or stereo USB computer speakers in an office, or stereo speakers literally anywhere else?

Also just looked for a better amp for the speakers, will [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-M1804-Compact-4-channel-Amplifier/dp/B00JEC0YFQ) work?

You can easily pick up vhf with an indoor antenna. It's just some consumer antennas don't have vhf elements any more. It's not hard to get a vhf antenna.

https://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Direct-VHF-1-VHF-Retrofit/dp/B00LHFRCMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=vhf+antenna&qid=1573424711&sprefix=vhf+ante&sr=8-17

I actually took it apart and drilled into the bottom plate. I used Ram Mounts (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144COPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sfLCybYH54MG7) that I got from work. We threw them out, still in the packaging... They work great, but probably not feasible if you actually have to buy them.

I'm looking at something like this

My buddy goes on float trips a lot.

The only problem that he has is that his group doesn't have music and the waterproof boomboxes cost an arm and a leg (and very few have any kind of MP3 support)

I purchased a Pelican 1300, and I drilled out two holes on the top (~ 1" space on each side). I then threw in two waterproof speakers making sure that it was sealed tightly (required some calk).

I stripped the RCA side of a 3.5mm jack to RCA cable and soldered the ends to the speakers.

It's a 1995 Mitsubishi Montero.
Haven't removed the door panels so I've yet to see the brand of the speakers already installed. Alright, I've got some investigating to do.

Rear panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWFY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_7z0VAb1A1DKVD

Front door: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWAO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_JC0VAbZAHR8WP

Dash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWF4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_YD0VAbW6ANGZE

Mine isn't super loud. But good enough for me.
I put in this double din head. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PV45GXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_F.wRwbBZ29KCN
Trust me, it's a pain in the ass.
Then I put these speakers. Rockford Fosgate R1525X2 Prime 5.25-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HX9E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ncxRwb4E81K7D
Eventually, I might put a 10 inch subwoofer and amp inside the right hand cubby.

I chose to keep the stock deck as to avoid breakins.. If you go that route it's possible to get the aux-input. http://jazzyengineering.com
I've got that hooked up to a bluetooth receiver and it works as good as any new touchscreen radio.
When I got my bugeye, the rear speakers were shot so I replaced them with these cheap rockford fosgates since I wasn't running an amp or any additional power.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3-6-5-Inch-Full-Range/dp/B00BF6HWCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485451990&sr=8-1&keywords=6.5+rockford

I am a similar distance away from the NY towers in a different direction (NJ) and use the CM-4228HD antenna with the VHF retrofit kit from Antennas direct, and the UHF channels are rock solid, plus I can get channel 7 reliably. I am still unable to get channel 11 and their weak-ass signal.

I saw this picture somewhere awhile ago, and it always stuck with me. Yeah, that is what I want. So I removed my whole head unit and replaced it with just an amp and a bluetooth receiver.

Now my car is a giant gadget -- basically a big bluetooth speaker. I run all of my music off my phone, and what used to be my stereo is a blank panel on the dash.

No the Bose Miata runs a stock amp to power the speakers. I was reading some people like to run this amp.

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLMRMP1A-2-Channel-Waterproof-Amplifier/dp/B003HH9FIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422056768&sr=8-1&keywords=pyle+2+channel+amplifier

ABC11 is VHF, and I think it's the only one locally. I couldn't get it at all until I got a VHF antenna to pair with my UHF antenna.

Source, under "Antenna Issues":

> Must be designed for VHF plus UHF (Note: ABC11 is the only VHF channel in the area)

Most HD antennas are probably only going to pick up UHF signals.

I have this in my attic, and had to attach this to get ABC.

Amp: https://smile.amazon.com/Pyle-Hydra-Marine-Amplifier-Waterproof/dp/B000N5T0T4


Extender: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Through/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/

​

Switcher: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-VS221HDQ-Automatic-Priority-Switching/dp/B00IUCVUB8/
We have one of that switcher, and one from the same company that's HDMI or VGA in instead of 2 HDMI.

I just replaced mine with Rockford Fosgate 5.25's all around.

Link

I have a Pyle Hydra 2 channel amp to my speakers. It has an integral aux input. If you could find a non-battery Bluetooth-aux adapter you may be able to go that route. I haven't looked into it much myself

How about a sonar phone? http://www.amazon.com/Vexilar-SP100-SonarPhone-Transducer-Pod/dp/B00CJJBM66

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R168X2-Coaxial-Speaker/dp/B00BF6HVGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414640639&sr=8-2&keywords=6+x+8

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-ev2-15-subwoofer-e15v2-500w-e-series.html

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-RFK4X-Complete-Amplifier/dp/B0012BYOSK/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414640972&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=rockford+fosgate+4+guage+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Single-15-Inch-Unloaded-Box/dp/B00BIFWGTO/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1414640830&sr=8-10&keywords=15+inch+sub+box#productDetails

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1414640957&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+amplifier

ZippyTheChicken, thanks to you pointing out that it would be a VHF problem I did some digging and the Clearstrem 4 does not have that good VHF reception but the Clearstream 4V does. After a little bit more digging I found that there is a retrofit kit that will turn my 4 into a 4V for less then $30 and not take up any extra space as it attaches to the reflector.

Clearstream 4V:

https://www.amazon.com/ClearStream-Indoor-Outdoor-Antenna-Mount/dp/B00SVNKT86/ref=sr_1_9?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1474565280&sr=1-9&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A6025776011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6025771011


VHF Retrofit:

https://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Direct-VHF-1-VHF-Retrofit/dp/B00LHFRCMG/ref=pd_rhf_eetyp_p_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VTZC39PHC0GTKBWXA4N9

I've got a 3D printed mount for my phone so it goes flush where the 1.5 din stereo used to go. Would I be able to use this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JEC0YFQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_107_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HM6KBN8VTJMBG9Z2BVQ1

With an RCA-3.5mm adapter? The Pyle 2 channel you showed me is a little bit weak, but I'm kinda understanding what I need now

These sound pretty good for only being ~$62 a set. These also aren't bad. I've bought a bunch of cheap speakers in the past and haven't had any problems, but STAY AWAY from pyle and boss. They have terrible quality control and let many broken things get sold. If you're really trying to keep on a budget you can get the cheap shit but you might have to spend more to send them back when they are DOA. You might also find some deals on used speakers on craigslist.