Reddit mentions: The best soldering irons

Weller WESD51 has been my go-to soldering station, but if you have money, Hakko is awesome. I also like the Weller heat gun, it comes with a curved deflector for heat shrink. The TS-100 pocket soldering iron is awesome for a tool bag. (Someone also hacked the firmware so you can play Tetris on the 96x16 OLED.)

Paladin (now Greenlee) crimpers are great. I have the 8000 series crimper with the 2699 "HDTV" die. It has sizes for most of the BNC connectors I need to crimp. Also get a quality coax stripper, I have a CST Pro, but I actually prefer the LC CST. Normal wire strippers and a curved wire cutter (like this) are must-haves, too.

Small diagonal cutters are great to have, I have the Xcelite 1178M, but the Hakko CHP-170 are cheaper and just as good.

If you have any fiber, get some IBC cleaners. They have different tips for various ferrule sizes. I usually end up carrying one for LC and one for SMPTE. A fiber scope is nice, but a bit overkill if you ask me. A laser is good enough for most of what I do.

A drill with a long phillips bit is essential for racking equipment, as is some sort of flashlight. I like this one because it has a magnet on it, which is perfect for sticking to rack rails.

Speaking of screwdrivers, a set of precision screwdrivers is handy. A friend of mine has this very expensive set. I have this one from Wiha and it's really good. Plus you get free needle nose pliers.

I've never had a problem with the EZ RJ45 crimpers, at least when using EZ RJ45 plugs.

If you can't get it with a Q-tip, it's nothing to worry about. Grab yourself a soldering iron on Amazon, as well as some quality solder and flux. I will link some in an edit to this comment in a few minutes. Also, screw everyone else in this thread, that is damn near the perfect amount of thermal paste.

EDIT: Here are my recommendations and reasons!

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SOLDERING IRONS:

Cheapo soldering iron:

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https://www.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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This one will do you some good for the quick fix, although I can't speak to the longevity of the iron or its ability to melt some of the higher temperature solders that factories use.

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More expensive (but WAAAAAAY BETTER) iron:

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https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-6

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This is a great soldering iron if you think electronics is something you'd like to get into. Quality replaceable tips are available, and it has a stand and comes with a cleaning sponge. I've used these, and absolutely love them. Honestly though, if this is going to be one of very few times you solder, just go for the cheap one.

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SOLDER:

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The cheap iron comes with some solder, and honestly you can probably get away with that for this one repair. If you decide to get the more premium iron though, here is some good solder:

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https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-22lbs/dp/B01B61TWGY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=solder&qid=1554944194&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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OR (I've never used this particular solder but MG chemicals is a great brand)

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https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Diameter/dp/B004258YDE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

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I usually stick to smaller diameter solders because you have a lot more control over how much you're putting onto a joint. This stuff is good, but really you just need to make sure it's lead solder because it melts a lot easier and is easier for beginners to work with.

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FLUX:

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If you want your joints to form and form well, you need some flux. At least coming from me, this is mandatory. Here's some good no-clean flux that you can use that will mostly evaporate off and shouldn't be much fuss to clean.

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https://www.amazon.com/Paste-10-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispenser/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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TUTORIAL:

Although kind of slow, here's a pretty good soldering guide. This relates more to soldering electrical components, but most of the lessons remain the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpkkfK937mU

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Best of luck!

Is Preonic worth the investment?

I have a Planck rather than a Preonic but OLKB designs sturdy and reliable boards that are also very interesting.

I honestly think the Planck is like twitter. Having a very low word (key) count makes people more creative in how they express themselves. The Preonic is more like tumbler where more things can be done more easily.

Moving keys to other layers is fine due to the extra thumbable keys on the bottom row. The Preonic doesn't require as many layers because it has so many more keys, so the extra thumb keys aren't really necessary.

That said, it's a nice compromise.

Is it a good build for a beginner?

It's the same difficulty as any other keyboard build that has PCB components soldered on. All you have to do is add switches and through-hole solder them. It's definitely a fine way to learn to solder as long as you follow a few rules.

Most keyboard kits come this way with the exception of those like the Lets Split which you have to solder diodes and a promicro onto also.

The only thing More difficult is getting a PCB printed and buying diodes, resisters, and chips from DigiKey and then using a heat gun or oven to cook all the little things on.

What is a good soldering station?

Cheap ones will work fine. People around here seem to like the Hakko 888d which is what I use. The cheaper ones like this will also work fine. The extra $80 doesn't change much about how you work. Turn on the iron, heat stuff, sponge occasionally, don't touch it to your skin, then put it away safely.

Soldering rules for beginners

1. Don't hold the heat on any part for more than 5 seconds. If it starts looking like a mess, go solder other parts and let things cool off before coming back to fix it. Don't freak out about the speed, just be deliberate and have things ready before you start applying heat
   
2. Use leaded solder because it's much easier to melt and manipulate
   
3. Use rosin core, no clean solder so you don't have to futz around with flux or flux cleaner
   
4. Put the iron down when you're not using it. It is shaped like a pencil and we humans like to tuck those between fingers while manipulating things. Do not do this.
   
   There are a lot of little things to do to maximize soldering experience. You'll figure these out over time. I thing this short list is enough to keep your board intact and blood in your body.

Seconded, also consider this kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjustable-Circuit-Holder/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ - it's invaluable for PCBs. Just populate from one side, add something to hold stuff in place (like gaffa tape, or bend one lead, or clip on a sheet of paper, etc), turn over the PCB and start soldering away. I wouldn't want to miss mine.

Any soldering iron 40+W where you can regulate the temperature should do, I own a nice station but when I don't feel like breaking it out because it'd take longer to set it up than to do the job I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ set to 350°C. Just make sure to clean and tin your tip regularly and it will do the trick just fine Oh, but ditch the solder and get a few spools of good rosin core solder of different gauges, it's not expensive but worth it. In my experience, the solder that comes with kits like that mostly works as a deterrent.

If you're not planning on buying all-included kits also get a few spools of stranded core wire of different colors. You could use solid core wires but those tend to break if they're getting bended from movement without showing it. With stranded core some strands may break but as others don't they'll continue to work. Invisibly broken wires (i.e.) inside the isolation) are a *beeeeep* to debug.

Also, a set of tweezers are great to have, especially the kind that holds stuff together per default, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Curved-Tweezers-Cross-Jewelers-Soldering/dp/B000OVPG9A/ (only an example, I'd get a tweezers set that contains one like that).

In my experience a tool set like this one is great to have: https://www.amazon.com/Haobase-6Pieces-Double-sided-Soldering-Assist/dp/B01DLX6V3C/ - especially the bending tool is great to have, as it allows eg to bend the leads of a LED without running the risk of breaking the LED itself. It's also great in order to clean up mistakes, helps with desoldering and such

Speaking of desoldering: desoldering braid is a must. A desoldering pump can be useful, too. And yes, practice soldering and desoldering until you can do both without destroying anything.

If you're not going to buy pre-drilled enclosures then you very likely want a) a center punch and b) stepping drill bits. Those let you drill holes in all kinds of sizes without having to buy lots of drills.

Last but not least a wire cutter is a must

>I am worried about the soldering

Soldering is easy. Use this solder and a decent quality hot pen, optimally with adjustable heat that goes up to 500C, you'll need the extra heat for soldering down the 12ga power wires to the flat contacts on the hotbed. I bought this kit on a Christmas sale for like $20 and it was fantastic for my build; had everything I needed. The pen might not last a lifetime like a Hakko or Weller pro station, but it got the job done wonderfully and I'm sure it will get me through my second v3 build here in about a week. (yes, I love this one so much, I'm building a second!)

>cutting out of plastic pieces

There's no cutting anything out, everything is laser cut for you already, you just pop it out.

>is it pretty self-explanatory?

The instructions could be clearer, I'll say. They could definitely reorder a few steps to make the build a bit easier during later steps. That said, it all came together without any issues. Just make sure you keep everything WELL organized.

Now listen,

Disregard everyone on this sub that says "deltas are more difficult," including and especially those with "Rostock Max V2 w/E3dV6" in their flair! ;-) Seriously folks, the meme that deltas are more difficult is dead. Repetier firmare has advanced to the point where calibrating them is even easier than Cartesian and I mean that!

Just so you're aware, I had in my possession 2 Cartesians prior to building this delta, and the cartesians never printed 100 microns perfectly. Literally straight after I finished my v3 build, ran the calibration script, dialed in KISSlicer, and hit print, the Rostock was laying down 100 microns at 80-100mm/sec without issue. I've never had a print lift off the heated bed, and I don't use anything to increase adhesion, just the bare glass.

At .3mm layer height, I can push the speed to 160mm/sec which seems to be the limit of the 8-bit RAMBo board before it starts artifcating pretty routinely. Nothing severe, but there's definitely some imperfections at that speed. Guess what: no one on this sub is printing 160mm/sec on their Cartesians without it looking like absolute shit, and my 160mm/sec prints are passable for prototypes. You're just not going to get that much speed with that high of a precision out of a desktop Cartesian, even with a bowden. You just will not.

Much larger build volume. Lower maintenance. Awesome SeeMeCNC customer support. Higher precision. Faster build times.

Listen, I could have streched my budget and gotten 3 Prusa MK2s and had a friggen sweet little farm going for what I'm paying for two v3s, but the MAX v3 is simply the superior option if you can afford the slightly higher price over the MK2. If you can't hit $999+shipping, just get the MK2. If you can hit that target, just get the v3. It's a better printer.

This one on Amazon seems to have pretty good reviews. I'd recommend getting a stand like this to go with it for safety reasons. (I decided to solder without mine a few weeks ago, and wouldn't you know it, the one time I decide I don't need the stand, I burn myself!)

You can easily spend a lot more on irons, and if you start doing a lot more soldering you may want to make a bigger investment. A lot of people really like the Hakko FX888D, but I personally prefer the Weller WTCPT-60 because I don't like fussing with knobs. (Despite not having a knob, the Weller actually does have very precise temperature control, but depending on what temperature you want you have to buy different tips, which isn't worth the hassle for most people. I use only one kind of solder so it doesn't matter for me, but I digress.)

I've never found any tutorials I really like, and my advice is to just get busy! You'll make a lot of mistakes and do a lot of projects slowly before you get good, and I don't think there's a tutorial out there that will let you skip that. To help you stay pointed in the right direction, here are a few things I look for in a good solder joint:

• A clean, consistent meniscus around the parts being soldered. If I'm tinning stranded wire, then I want to be able to see the contours of the strands underneath the solder once it's cooled, while still using enough solder to get good penetration. Big gobs of solder all over the place look tacky, can cause shorts, and can indicate the next problem:
  
• "Cold" solder joints. By this I mean that the conductors you're soldering together weren't hot enough when the solder melted, and so the solder didn't stick. Solder on "cold" joints will often (but not always) have a frosty appearance, and will usually bead up instead of forming a meniscus like I described earlier. To make sure your joints aren't cold, use the iron to heat the joint, then touch the solder to the joint (rather than the iron), to melt it. If the conductor is hot enough to melt solder by itself, you can be sure you're joints won't be cold. (Usually you have to melt a little gob of solder onto the iron first to get the heat to conduct into the joint. This is a trick you can only get good at through practice.)
  
  There are a few intuition issues you should be aware of that I've observed while teaching students to solder. For instance, most of the stuff you'll be soldering is so small that it will be "cold" (as in "too cold to melt solder") the instant you pull the iron away, and cool enough to touch within seconds. Try it if you don't believe me. The part will only stay hot as long as the iron is touching it. You'd be surprised how many people can't get their head around this.
  
  Also, oxygen is your enemy. The longer the part is hot, the more oxidized the surface will become and the harder it will be for solder to stick. This is true even when the joint is hot, but not hot enough to melt solder! So once the iron contacts the work, you have to be expedient. Most joints can be finished in 5 seconds or less, and if you're holding the iron on there for 10 seconds or more but the solder still isn't melting, stop and reexamine what you're doing. You may want to get some fine-grit sandpaper to clean the conductors off before you start again.
  
  Keeping oxygen out of your solder joint is the job of flux, and like /u/avialex (edit: fixed) said it's very helpful (provided everything is relatively clean to begin with). But again it's a balancing act. If you use too much flux you'll make a mess, and raw flux is slightly corrosive and can be very difficult to clean off your work.
  
  There are lots of other tricks you'll learn through practice too. I guess that's where tutorials might come in handy. You'll probably learn to splice wires (probably the most difficult thing to do with a soldering iron) much more quickly from someone with experience on Youtube than struggling through it 20,000 times yourself, doing it a harder way because you didn't know any better.
  
  At the same time though, there's no substitute for practice. This went on a lot longer than I intended, but I think now you have plenty of information to keep in mind as you get started. Good luck and happy soldering!

My cord craft kit

Detail of select tools

DIY Fid, Finished paracord end, Kleen-Kut Paracord scissors & buoy wrap scissor cover

I've accumulated quite a few tools in my years as a knotter/rigger but you really don't need very much to get started in the hobby. When I first started tying, my most commonly used tool was the Dr. Slick Spring Creek Clamp, 5", Black, Straight. You'll find many less expensive "hemostats" on Amazon, this just happens to be the one I picked up at an outdoor outlet many years back. It served as a fid, a "pusher" and a puller. I don't use them for tying much any more, I "thread" with a fid more than I pull through these days, but I do use them for finishing the ends of paracord — see below.

As I said, I now use "fids" or lacing needles regularly. My first fids were homemade — machined by spinning an aluminum Chicago screw in a drill press and shaping it with a file. I progressed to using a pair of the Tandy Leather Long Jumbo Perma-Lok Needle 1193-05 that I'd modified by shortening and shaping the tips to be more needle like. I wouldn't bother these days because purpose made fids are readily available: 3 1/2" Stainless Steel 550 Paracord Fid, Lacing, Stitching Needle. I have fids and Perma-Lok needles in a variety of sizes to accommodate different cords — I don't use 550 exclusively.

Though not completely necessary I do find the Knotters Tool II (Stainless Steel) w/ 3 Different Size Stainless Steel Lacing Needles by Jig Pro Shop to be handy and it includes three fids. An aluminum version is available too, but I'm never one to shy away from investing in a tool that will last. I also use a 4 3/4" Paracord Tucking Tool (Stainless Steel) for tucking and smoothing. You can probably find a similar tool at the local pharmacy, and maybe even at a dollar store.

The best cutting tool I've found for paracord are the Kleen-Kut scissors sold by Paracordist.com. Unfortunately, the store is currently down so I can't supply a link. You can use good quality flush-cutters, bandage scissors or a good, sharp pair of "Fiskars" (or similar scissors) and they will all work. However, I tried everything I could to avoid buying the "special" scissors and, in the end, wish I'd just done it sooner.

My technique for finishing the ends of paracord: Clamp the end of the cord at a 45 degree angle with the hemostats. Cut the cord flush with edge of the clamp. Run a lighter along the edge of the cord to seal. While the cord is still warm, remove the clamp and, if necessary, re-clamp to the very end to squeeze and seal the end. Tuck the end back into the workpiece. If the end is going to be exposed I will sometimes remove a small length of the core first, then trim and seal just the jacket for a flatter, neater finish.

I do sometimes use a hot knife for finish work. Most often the Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Soldering Iron. If I'm at my bench I do have an Engel Heat Cutter HSGM Hot Knife w/ Type R Blade available (used for "big rope" and purchased when I was rigging boats professionally) but it's total overkill for paracord work. I am intrigued by the Hand Held Electric Hot Knife Rope Cutter Set - 100 Watt, Cutting Blade (HHHK-HS18. The tool is probably not as durable as the Engel, but if one isn't using it all day, every day it's likely suitable. One Advantage of these "rope guns" is that they heat up almost instantly but, truthfully, the Weller doesn't take very long to come up to temperature and it's much more portable. Whichever you choose, it’s easy to mar your piece with the hot knife so I generally use the hemostats as a shield. (And again, I'm more often just using the lighter/hemostats for paracord work.)

I also keep a needle case with sail-makers needles and whipping twine (wrapped around the needle case) handy for stitching and whipping. (In a pinch, a single strand of 550 core makes a decent twine, particularly if you pass it along a block of wax.)

I want to emphasize that you don't need all of these tools, you might not really need any of them, but I do find that assembling a good kit and having the right tool available can help overcome tricky problems. I'd say that the Knotter's tool (admittedly, my attachment to this tool may be due to my love for marlin spikes in general) with it's fids—or barring that, just a set of fids—the hemostats, a good pair of scissors and a lighter would make a decent field kit. Add the rest of the stuff to your knotting bench over time. Or not.

I'll also say that there was a certain satisfaction to making and improvising my tools in the early days but now that there are so many quality purpose made tools available via Amazon I don't find it's worth my time any more. (I have a wooden bracelet/collar jig that I made but I recently acquired the aluminum jig from Acid Tactical and I think it's just brilliant and even assigning a lower value to my time than I normally would, much cheaper to buy than build.) I do have a plan to machine a set of Delrin fids and pushers for low-profile air travel "one of these days"

Hope this helps.

That's actually a good ideal TBH as you run the risk of damaging the PCB way more than damaging the switches should things go south. Then if you end up lifting a few pads in the de-soldering or soldering process, you can always just jump them as long as you don't burn too many up. Worst case you fry a $20 KB which would suck, but not be a huge waste or anything for the experience you with de-soldering/soldering TBH.

I would clip & lube the stabilizers while you have it all apart, I'm sure those could use the help from that bad. Also most likely you will need to de-solder & remove the LEDs to get the original switches out so you can get enough in one color to cover the whole board & solve the rainbow LED problem while your at it too!

A few tips though, the lead free solder used on these mass produced boards has a pretty high melting point & is tough to get to flow. I highly recommend getting a cheap de-soldering iron like this or this for doing it, also solder wick is a must too. Then any joints that don't come completely clean on the first try, re-solder with leaded iron & repeat the de-soldering process on them. That usually helps to get any remaining lead free solder to move.

The other thing is to get yourself a temp controlled soldering iron. If you plan on getting into building boards I suggest something fairly decent like the Hakko FX888D, it's a little pricey but well worth it if you will using it alot. If you plan on only doing a few projects here & there, you could get away something a little cheaper like this. Anyways GL with the project & I hope to see a success post sooner than later! :)

A little over a year ago I desoldered and resoldered my entire CM Quickfire TK because I wanted to plasti-dip the backplate (I know did it the hard way but it was interesting to do it that way". I later desoldered and resoldered every single LED because I wanted a slightly cooler shade of white.

To this day My keyboard works perfectly. I did research on soldering and practiced on an old portable DVD player.

I bought a cheap soldering kit and [higher quality solder] (https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-AM31605-Leaded-Rosin-Solder/dp/B0044UH8PC/ref=sr_1_46?ie=UTF8&qid=1500437544&sr=8-46&keywords=alpha+fry+solder) with a rosin core made specifically for PCB's.

This is what I did for a 95% clean job. Note this was my VERY FIRST time ever soldering and I think I did a pretty nifty job.

• Set the temperature to 150C on the iron
  
  
• DO NOT USE THE SOLDERING INCLUDED IN THE KIT. Use the solder I mentioned earlier. (you can find it cheap on ebay i think)
  
  
• I found the included suction pump to work better than copper wick but it's the other way around for some other people.
  
  
• The second I saw the joint melt I sucked that puppy up
  
  
• Keeping the tip is very very important. Clean the tip every 1-2 joints you solder/desolder on a damp sponge.
  
  
• After cleaning the tip melt a little bit of solder directly on it. This is called tinning and this helps you solder a clean joint very easily.
  
  
• when desoldering try your best to not touch anything that is not solder or else you'll burn the pads.
  
  
• When applying solder, you're supposed to place the tip on the thing you're trying to solder, then you place the solder on said thing :P
  
  
• sometimes you can't get all the solder out. DONT KEEP TRYING TO MELT THE VERY LITTLE LEFT OVER SOLDER. Use a pair of tweezers and jiggle the contact until the solder of solder breaks off.
  
  Look up tutorials. They're very useful

I wish there was a very clear answer that isn't a thousand 823 words. But there isn't, so bear with me. Or is that bare with me? Regardless, beer with me.

Okay, as far as I know there are three ways to do a battery swap (as long as you aren't trying to keep your saves on the game. Then there are wires, lots of prayers, and it is a pain in the bottom). The first two methods are the guide you linked to and soldering the battery. The last is finding a tabbed battery.

As your guide shows, and as both of the first methods will follow, you need to break the connectors off the battery. Don't bust out a soldering iron just yet, these aren't soldered. They are spot welded. Unless you have a spot welder (and you don't - don't lie to me and say you do, I doubt any of us have one) you won't be able to get it back together the same way it was. You need to break the connections in order to get a fresh battery in there.

Grab your finest razor blade in order to sever the connections, and a handful of bandaids in order to stop the bleeding from your accidental cuts. It is bound to happen, maybe not the first time, hopefully not every time, but you will be poking and cutting your hands. It will suck. A sharp razor won't hurt you as much, but try to be careful anyway.

After you clean your blood off the circuit board, you can choose which of the first two methods to go down. You can use the soldering iron or tape / wire glue. Wire glue is, as far as I've been told, basically iron mixed into elmer's glue. It is suppose to hold well, but it wouldn't hurt to tape after using it. Mix it up well before using it, or else you might not get a very conductive result.

The issue with using glue or tape to hold your battery is when you get to Gannon in the dark world, or maybe battling Giygas, or vanquishing dracula, your method of holding the battery will fail. Maybe you'll bump the cart just the right way, or maybe the dog will run in and knock the SNES down, then you'll lose all that time. And be upset at the dog that just was super excited to see you, because he only knows a few people and he loves you so very much. He won't understand why you are angry, and it will break his tiny little heart.

Don't break your dogs tiny little heart. If you don't own a soldering iron, use good electrical tape and use the glue, and make sure it is as secure as possible. Some people will add hot glue in there to hold that sucker in place, and it isn't a bad idea.

So, you love your dog and you are thinking you should use a soldering iron. Well, it is going to be hard to play fetch with fido when you are blind, and you might get angry at me if I don't mention it. Hot things and batteries aren't a good combination. They can pop, spray acid, and ruin your day. Wear safety glasses at the very least, and try to keep the iron on the battery as little as possible. A soldered battery will hold in place much better, but it still isn't great.

So, you've arrived at option 3. I like to call this the expensive option, but it is the right way to do it. You need to find the batteries (and without spending a bunch of time researching, there is a pretty good chance it is one of the ones in this list )then you need to have a soldering iron, and some solder. A desoldering iron would be really handy, but soldering wick could be used in its place, or you could just not use anything and probably be okay. Buy a/some tabbed batteries, remove the old battery by heating up the tabs through the board and pull it out. A desoldering iron can be used to suck the solder away, which will make this easier for you, and a wick can be used in a similar fashion. Pop the old one out, put the new one in, solder it in place, and you'd be good to go. The batteries aren't going to be cheap, and you can't ship them (easily) via USPS because they are lithium.

As for soldering, you might need to practice the basics. There are cheap little kits at Radio Shack. Make a FM radio or something using one of them. Take your time, be careful, and keep some burn ointment on hand. Seriously, there isn't a method here that won't lead you to some sort of minor injury.

Good luck, and tell your Dog I said "Woof!"

I've been a hobbits soldering for about 25 years now, but have done a bit in the professional field. For about the last 15 years I've used a Weller WM120 as my primary hobby iron with a super low end SP23LK 25 watt iron for heavier duty things. On my bench in the office I used a Hakko 936 which is a great unit, but it's pretty spendy for a home gamer.


About two months ago I saw an EEVBlog video on a chinese replicate of the Hakko936 and Dave had a lot of really good things to say about it during his teardown. Clive has also done a video on this same iron, and uses a Yuhua soldering station as his regular bench unit. This prompted me to buy one from Hobbyking about two weeks ago and I've been very happy with it so far.


Some notes: The station slides around on my plastic covered table, as does the iron stand. This was easily resolved by adding a couple little rubber feet to the bottom of both. Also, the iron stand is VERY light and easily picked up when you're attempting to retrieve the iron, but simply adding a little bit of weight in the bottom resolved that. For $30 shipped to my house, It's pretty legit. Can use Hakko tips on it as well.

Some thoughts on the IPS:

• Install:
  
  • Toughest part is attaching the ribbon cable back to the AGS board. I found it was shorter than the stock ribbon cable.
    
  • Don't be scared to solder. Bought a $15 soldering iron off Amazon and practiced a bit on other stuff. Very easy to solder the wire to the board for brightness control, just need to be precise.
    
  • I bought my case from Retro Modding and chose to do the case modification myself with my dremel tool. Easy as well.
    
• IPS:
  
  • At first it was weird not having the pixelated look of the AGS-101 but, after seeing the two next to each other, I'm starting to love the pixel density of the IPS.
    
  • If you solder, you'll have 6 brightness options. Levels 1 and 3 are comparable to the AGS-101 and its two brightness options. This means the IPS is quite brighter at its highest setting, but also darker for sessions at night with no lights on. Great versatility.
    
  • I have experienced zero screen tearing as I received the new ribbon cable. That should not be a concern anymore.
    
    Overall, I think this really is the game changer everyone has been waiting for. I love my two AGS-101's but, with the prices rising and the availability of this kit, it's a no brainer. Again, I bought this cheap soldering iron and practiced a few times; that's really how easy the install is if you have steady hands. I cannot speak for this kit without the brightness options activated.
    
    Hope this helps!

Here are some rules to keep in mind:

• Keep your soldering iron clean and tinned, a dirty/oxidized soldering iron doesn't transfer heat well. I use a wet sponge at a bench. If I'm in the field, the hem of my jeans works well. Just quick wipe and a touch of solder for a good shiny tip. (Adding a little bit of solder to "tin" the tip of the iron also aids in heat transfer and keeps dirt/oxidation off.)
  
  
• Be sure your parts are clean too. You want clean, shiny copper to solder to. Wire or circuit boards that have been exposed to moisture are a disaster to solder to. Fine sandpaper and alcohol can clean things up if there's tarnish.
  
  
• Heat the part you're soldering with the iron. Use the hot part to melt the solder. Just like you don't plop your bacon and eggs on the stove, you put a pan down first and put your food in the pan. You're not using the soldering iron directly on the solder...
  
  
• Don't blob your solder on. This isn't paint and it isn't glue. It's liquid metal. Your joint should look almost as if it has been moistened with water.
  
  
• Keep a mental count of 10 sec. Too much heat can destroy components on a circuit board and melt the insulation on wires. 10 sec is a good rule of thumb. If you can't achieve a good joint in that, let things cool down and try again.
  
  
• Too little heat is also bad. It makes the solder joint brittle and the solder doesn't flow evenly. You'll have a grainy appearance. Allow the heat to conduct through both parts you're soldering together. Bigger parts will require a little time to come up to temp. Tiny parts are almost solderable immediately.
  
  
• Remember that solder take a bit of time to cool. Don't move your part around until the melted solder has solidified. Moving it while it's liquid is another way to have a brittle joint.
  
  Start with a pair of wires... Just twisted together wires, like a "Western Union" or "Lineman's" splice.
  
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice
  
  It's how I usually install car stereo equipment when putting the car and radio harness together.
  
  Next, you can move up to kits. I wish HeathKit was still selling shit... Velleman seems to sell small trinkets for less than US$10 and you can find them on Amazon. They're fairly easy to assemble, single layer board kits.
  
  http://www.vellemanstore.com/en/minikits
  
  Mainly, it's practice, practice, practice.
  
  You don't even have to spend a whole bunch on an iron... Either of these is quite acceptable and I work on electronics on a daily basis:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP25NUS-Standard-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG70K/
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NUS-Medium-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG6UQ/
  
  The first one is a 25 watt unit and better suited for smaller circuit board jobs. The second one is a larger 40 watt unit and more suited for wiring type jobs. But both should be acceptable for both types of jobs.
  
  EDIT: Also, as someone who works on electronics almost daily... The was James May should have repaird this was to bend a hook in the end of the wire he was soldering. That way, it'd hang on the terminal strip without the need for a third hand. Iron in one hand, solder in the other.

It's hard to tell because you used way too much solder, but it looks like you may have cold joints. Thick solder makes it easier to use too much, if your solder is wider than 1mm look into something narrower, I like 0.6mm. (60/40 rosin core preferably.) As for the joint, what you want to be doing is heating both pieces with your iron and then letting the solder melt onto the joint; that's a hot joint. If you just melt the solder onto the joint with your iron, that's a cold joint and you don't want it; they're much more brittle. You can put a dab of solder on the iron tip to help heat transfer (the faster you heat the pieces, the faster you can solder the joint and stop dumping heat into the components) but that solder is not for making the joint.

If you need to go back and fix those joints, invest in a solder sucker to remove it. (Or if you don't mind spending the six bucks, do it anyway, because that extra solder didn't help and can only hurt.)

There's a good series of EEVBlog videos on soldering if you want a more in-depth look at removing the "noob" part from "noob soldering job," Dave does a good job of explaining.

Lastly, if your iron looks like this, consider upgrading to a variable temperature iron like a TS100 (great for field repairs if you make an XT60 adapter for it) or this cheap Stahl, they're both worth the money. (The TS100 is the better of the two, and will work well enough for most small jobs to be your primary iron.) Those cheap pencil irons are pretty worthless, though they'll certainly work if that's all you've got.

I use a cheap Chinese one off amazon . This one Its 60 watt with adjustable temp and came with a kit. Does the job and was cheap. You will also need some no clean solder flux paste and some solder. I wasn't sure if the solder the kit came with was lead free or not ( lead free isn't as good) so I bought my own solder at a hardware store. It's not the greatest set up but it's done me good so far. I am not the most experienced modder on here though. I have only built 2 boxes so far but both turned out well. Just to warn you its hella addictive. I have parts to make like 5 or 6 more boxes already. The hardest part is just getting everything to fit inside the enclosure nice and neatlty. The enclosures look roomy until your trimming down your wiring to finish up soldering. I would say start with something easier so you don't fuck up am expensive board but my first box was an intelligent PWM board and was glad I started on something a bit more technical. I'm finishing up a dual battery squonk with only a mosfet and it's a piece of cake now.

As for your DNA 200. I would have to research myself. I am a YiHi fan. I have 2 SX Mini G Classes so I have never looked into the price of boards. I will look around. So far I found a 200 for $56 on dripp3d.com

I'm legally blind and I have no problems soldering, so long as I don't get my nose too close. :P

Seriously, though, the smaller the component the harder it will be, but soldering key switches is pretty easy. Just don't rush and be patient/careful. The trick is getting the right amount of solder, which just takes practice to get a feel for (and having your iron the right temperature really helps here).

You can pick up soldering practice kits for around $10 if you want to give it a try. If you've never soldered before, I'd definitely recommend that before you dive right in to working on a $100+ keyboard.

I recommend not using the cheap $10-15 irons though. They can be a great source of frustration and put you off of the whole experience. If you don't want to sink the money into a full soldering station, something like this would probably be a great place to start.

a) yes, it seems pretty much the same. For the most uses, most DMMs (Digital Multi Meter) will work just fine. Your basic needs are to have a couple of different ranges for both voltage and ampacity readings (i'm refering to the accuracy of the readings here... a DVM generally has 3 or 4 characters on the screen to describe the charactieristic. one range will cover, let's say up to 2 millivolts, and the next will cover up to 2 volts, the next up to 20... you'll figure it out). another major tool on the DVM is an audible continuity tester. these just make a tone when you have a clean circuit path between points a and b. Big help. That one you linked up seems pretty decent.... when you start wiring houses or something, then you can think about upgradign into a fluke handheld or a benchtop if you're doing big fancy circuits, but that'd be fine for quite a while.

I'll tell you, my Iron Experience is pretty dang limited. but this is what i know. As far as a soldering iron goes, one of the major considerations is the power rating, i.e. the wattage ratings... i think mine is about 30W, and it works just fine. If i had my druthers I'd go to one of those variable ones that can get up to ~800 degrees. I'd also definitely consider one that comes with a proper resting stand. An operating soldering iron is a pretty big safety issue, in that it is a burning hot iron tip hanging around on a surface that may or may not be covered in flammable material or human flesh.

As far as de-soldering irons go, at school i have access to those fancy powered vacuum ones... I just take any desoldering tasks i have over there because they are the cats meow. I've used those l'il non-powered vacuum tubes and i think they are going to take a lot of skill and training to get to use efficiently. i didn't like them. I've never used or seen this type

I've bought 3 in the last year or so, all of which were cheap $20-$30 irons. The cheapo I got from home depot or lowes was decent for a while til its operation became intermittent depending on how the heating element would wiggle. Another one I got that was similar but used only a 9v adapter also worked ok for a little while but eventually same issue, intermittent functionality. Last one I bought was a cheap one from Amazon , this one here for like $20 bucks and I'm still using that one. It works pretty good and hasn't failed me at all yet.

A friend gave me a rework station that had a functioning soldering iron but heat gun didn't work. I tried using that and while it worked, it actually didn't work any better than the $20 cheapo from amazon, so I just use the cheapo instead because it's smaller.

IMO the main benefit of a more expensive soldering iron kit is having one with a holder for the iron and a place to keep a cleaning pad, as well as the ability to dial up temperature a little higher for more heavy duty usage.

So im gonna end up buying this because its going to allow me to check the voltage of the batteries as well plus its better value for my dollar:

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B073VDX4B7/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539553716&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=solder+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51P9eT8SbjL&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1539553866516

I bought some thinner silver bearing rosin core solder at home depot today b/c the reviews in the listing said that spool was bigger and harder to use for electronics. My girlfriend wouldnt let me get the lead based stuff :/ (not much i can do lol) im also going to order some flux paste from amazon as well since you highly recommended i use it for the job. Then last but not least ive gotta order a battery, although i might get a few, gotta do some more research and find the right one.

Overall i think im gonna be good to go, found some older electronics from storage that im going to practice on and yeah, wouldnt have been as easy without all the info you provided! Thanks again, ill update you on how it all goes but wanted to share what i decided on buying! I’m Super excited to start this little project later week

If you are a total noob, I suggest you just get any 60 W soldering iron. Really. This one suits you and cost less than $10. Because getting a FX-888D now is like killing mosquitoes with cannons.

You also may need a stand where to rest the iron when not using it. It comes with a sponge so you can clean the iron tip from time to time (just don't forget to wet it before use).

Finally, you will need some solder. Stay away from lead-free solder, this stuff isn't for amateurs. Get a good-old 63/37 solder with rosin flux core, this one have a 0.3 mm diameter, small enough to even solder SMD components (but don't start with them, they need more practice to be hand-soldered).

Soldering isn't a difficult skill but it requires practice. So you better start small and take easy steps. In no time you will be soldering SMD components. :)

PS: you also want to get some desoldering wick and a hand vacuum pump/solder sucker, those are more useful than you might think.

DISCLAIMER: all these items are just suggestions, buy whatever you think is more useful for you. Just wanted to give you a start point.

You burned up your transformers because you were drawing way more power than they were rated for.

Every load has a particular impedance at a particular frequency. No offense but it doesn't sound like you're at the level of optimizing a load for active/reactive/apparent power.

If you want to do it semi-safely, buy a variable transformer like the one I linked. Dial it down to zero, then increase the voltage slowly and measure the AC current flowing to your load while you do so. Ensure it stays below the limit of the variac and below the point your iron melts.

If you are remotely confused by any of this then DON'T DO IT. A soldering iron is something you hold in your hand - great way to get more than your recommended daily value of electricity.

Best, cheapest, and safest option.

> eBay

Thanks. Never heard of that brand before but it looks legit! I have two cheap soldering sets, a gun kind and pen type. They work alright but I imagine they wouldnt compare at all to the Hakko. I will keep my eye out for good deals on them. Wouldnt it be too late if I already purchased it after emailing Hakko the SN? Or would I be doing this prior to buying it via messaging the seller ?


Right now the solder im using is "rosin core 40/60" .

Im not sure if you meant this ratio or the one you said. Im pretty sure this isnt the fine gauge rosin because I have another roll of solder that is like 1 tenth the thickness of this one.

Do you have a link to the best all purpose solder for small electronics or your go to brand? The only reason I got into soldering is because I always end up breaking things and soldering fixes a lot of the things I break lol

Heres the items I have for soldering:

• Electronics soldering gun kit
  
  
• Larger Universal soldering gun
  
  
• Circuit Board Holder
  

[[How to set up an electronics lab on the cheap]] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HicV3Z6XLFA)

Some notes:

[[These TS100]] (https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-ToolPAC-Soldering-Heating-Intelligent/dp/B0183RJIUE) perform more like a $300 weller iron, but can be had for as little as $55 from banggood if you already have your own power adapter (such as from a defunct laptop).


Do not buy the cheapest soldering station on hobby king. Get at least the yihua 908.

Don't use a wet sponge, buy some brass wire tip cleaner. Get some tip tinner and a jar of rosin flux as well.

Avoid lead free solder whenever possible. If you have to use lead free, look for low temperature eutectic solder.

2n5817 schottkey diodes are super handy because they only drop .2V instead of .7V and they switch faster as well.

Use a hollow needle set for desoldering if solder wick isn't doing the job, those solder suckers are complete garbage.


IRF520 are resiliant logic level power mosfets, good to have if you want to switch a large load with an arduino/avr.

Get some LM317 and LM337 voltage regulators.

If you don't have the cash for a proper bench supply, use some 9V batteries and the aforementioned voltage regulators.

If you anticipate building a power amplifier at some point a few TIP3055 (NPN), TIP2955 (PNP) are good to have on hand.

If you want to venture into the world of AVRs without relying on the arduino IDE and library get a USBasp for as little as $5.

I find myself using a lot of 10uF ceramic capacitors. Consider getting a bunch of them from a mainstream component supplier like Arrow.

Instead of getting one of those shitty USB microscopes get a clip-on smartphone microscope lens and gooseneck smartphone mount.

You aren't worthless. Hell, the fact that you are even interested in doing things yourself is encouraging. You just need to be patient and scour CL and FB Marketplace for stuff people are practically giving away. Then, tear those things apart and build them into something good. Nobody hates you. You just need to consciously make the decision to wait for the stuff you want. First thing; get either one of those little Nobsound NS-01G chip amps or a stupid cheap old AVR used. That gives you a decent amp to start with. After that, look for cheap speakers you might not actually like, but could tear apart for drivers or crossover parts.

LEARN TO SOLDER. It's absolutely the most important skill you can have if you are serious about DIY and reclaiming stuff. A cheapo soldering iron kit is like $15 bucks on Amazon. This is actually the best deal because you ALSO get a multimeter, which is the OTHER thing you really need to know how to use.

Once you get that, you can tear apart all sorts of electronics and BUILD your own stuff, and save TONS of money through the years, AND learn a valuable skill as well.

Don't get discouraged. I'm sorry if I came across as harsh. It's just frustrating to see a person who obviously cares about getting good audio sort of shoot himself in the foot over and over.

I'd check the tip of your iron; if it's silver and shiny, it's fine; black and pitted, it probably doesn't conduct heat as well, and it's time to get a new one.

There are also other irons, like this Hakko that are higher wattage for about half the cost of the mentioned station.

I'd suggest switching to silicone hobby wire; a lot of the nerf stores like OutOfDarts, FoamBlast, and Containment crew carry it. It will handle high heat will, but is still pretty reasonable to strip by hand. You can also check out PVC coated wire; it's cheaper and a little thinner (though a bit less flexible), but it will burn much sooner than silicone.

Lead Free soldering is a bit more challenging, but it's certainly doable.

$14 link for a solid basic soldering iron.
Here's one that costs a little more, but has more adjustability $39 link.
Anything from Weller is going to be pretty good.
Here's a pretty good basic soldering video.
It's not hard, but takes a little practice to get the feel for it. I would recommend finding a broken electronic that you can pull a circuit board out of and just practice soldering by removing parts from the board and putting them back.
Have fun!

Despite how old these videos are I found them amazing for "reteaching" myself how to solder. It also does a great job of explaining what you want in an iron, and why cheap irons don't do well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

I've had great luck with this iron https://amzn.com/B00FZPSX3G. I also got the tip cleaning paste (so nice to have) and the "gold" tip cleaning brush. Along with the helping hand board holder. And of course some solder wick. I'm going to get a solder sucker as well. Decent equipment goes a LONG ways in soldering.

typcially id agree that you'd wanna spend a bit more and get a really nice iron, but if you're just doing casual stuff I have a mudder soldering iron kit with variable temperature and multiple tips and it's done a great job. It feels a bit cheap but I've used it to build mic preamps and a microphone with ease. Also the case is nice to have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1IFT54/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491221370&sr=8-5-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mudder+soldering&psc=1

This looks like the same kit but the brand name has changed for whatever reason.

Hard to say... I personally enjoy doing little electronics projects from time to time, so in my case, I already had a soldering station on hand, and I use it probably once a month or so for various things. Chances are if you haven't needed a soldering iron in your life up to this point, that you will rarely have a use for one later on.

While it's certainly easy to spend a decent amount of money on a nice soldering station, a cheap iron like this one on Amazon would be fine for jobs like this. A small spool of solder will run you about $4 dollars. You could find similar prices to these at Radio Shack as well.

Making cables is easier than it sounds, and soldering isn’t difficult - but you’re right that you want to buy a decent iron at the bare minimum.

That said, a variable wattage soldering iron can be had for like $20 if you know where to look, consumables like solder and flux are super cheap and you don’t need a big soldering station if all you’re doing is making cables. If you’re curious hit YouTube and get an idea of whether or not you think you can handle it.

Soldering Kit

Cable Kit

That’s $50 worth of stuff and you can build six cables at whatever length you want. I think that’s still cheaper than lava cable at that rate and if you need more later you still have the equipment.

I've done two desolder jobs with this one and it is flawless and clean. Nice strong suction, but more importantly the exhaust is also equally forceful for when you need to eject the solder keeping the iron clean, and minimizing down time from cleaning. Really awesome and worth the premium.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJSG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

I have a bunch of Oracal vinyl from other projects that I like to throw on things just because. It might be worth looking up how people wrap vehicle interior trim pieces with vinyl, as it looks like this can be taken apart fairly easily, with the outer case being two halves.

http://www.gomechanicalkeyboard.com/velocifire-nk01-keypad-review/

As far as replacing switches go, it's really hard to say how difficult you might find it, but this would be something good to practice on because if you fuck up, you aren't out much. The most annoying part of the process is desoldering, but once you figure that out it's not that bad. Also with soldering, it's best to get a temperature controllable iron and decent solder.

I've had great success with this desoldering iron:

https://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG

You can fuss with connectors, but that limits your options considerably.

Generally you'll want to mount the power supply somewhere on a wall or a shelf somewhere, and then run wire to the strips. Working with pre-made stuff, you won't be able to position things very well; those mostly work for under-cabinet lighting.

All the tapes work by having two copper traces along the length for a +12V and a ground. There are pads placed along the length that you can solder wires to, and marks for where you can cut the tape. Making this connection is pretty easy, even if you don't have soldering experience. If you're into DIY/woodworking stuff, it shouldn't be a problem.

The power supplies have a standard terminal block. These are basically little screws that clamp onto a bare wire. You simply need to be able to strip the end of a wire of its insulation to make the connection. Ideally you solder the wire first so the strands don't poke out and short on something, but that's optional.

To wire this all up, you'll need a wall-power cable (you can buy these pre-made, or simply cut the cord off a discarded appliance) to connect to the power supply. Then, you'll need to run paired wires to the actual strips themselves. Note that this is a 12V system, so the amperage can actually be considerable. A full strip is going to draw about 5 amps, so size the wire accordingly. 18AWG is a good start, but if you want to do a long run (>10feet) I'd go for 16AWG.

A simple iron is all you need (https://smile.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542140733&sr=1-13&keywords=soldering+iron)

but the extras in a kit like this might be useful if you don't have any electronics tools: https://smile.amazon.com/Soldering-Electronics-Adjustable-Temperature-Portable/dp/B071VLFGXL/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542140733&sr=1-14&keywords=soldering+iron

Whoo, loaded question with tons of opinions, hah.

The "best" lube is highly subjective, and it also depends on the type of switch. If you're lubing linear switches, my personal favorite is VPF 1514 oil. It's not cheap, but it gets the job done (you can order smaller quantities of it from Mehkee. For tactile switches, I use Krytox GPL 205 (which you used to be able to buy DuPont brand on Amazon, but no longer appears to be available).

Best solder for building keyboards is Kester, 0.8mm, hands down. Quality stuff, flows and bonds well, and the size is good for switches or LEDs.

Soldering iron recommendations: This cheap kit is acceptable for building a keyboard (I built 4 or 5 with it prior to upgrading). If you know you're going to be building multiple kits, and you think it's possible you might do re-work or try to desolder boards, just go ahead and spend the money right the first time and get this one: Hakko FX888D. Basically the gold standard of soldering irons.

How long does this thing need to run? Using AA or even a 9 V is very heavy, a LiPo is expensive.... Do you really need it to last a week?

The 5 V pro micro consumes 19.9 milliamps in active mode, so using 6 SR416SW watch batteries (8 mAh) in series will provide an operating life of (8 mAh / 19.9 mA) = .4 hr = 24 minutes. Using 6 watch batteries of a higher capacity (SR44SW) could get you up to 8.8 hours of operating time. Using AA batteries would get you over 100 hours at a significant cost in weight.

There's no sense in carrying any more battery than required. You can always use solder-glue to connect wires to the batteries, which is probably easier than figuring out how to hold the batteries in some sort of clip.

When finding batteries you just need to take the battery capacity in mAh (current*time) and divide it by the current draw you plan on giving it - the quotient will be the operating life of your device in whatever unit of time you chose to do the math in (probably hours).

Your strategy should be to start with a desired operational lifetime, and then from this number work backwards to find a battery capacity that suits your needs. Don't forget to add some margin - so maybe buy the size up from the battery your math specified.

I just ordered components to make my first box mod, but have done small electrical work before.

Helping Hands will make your life much easier, may not be necessary if you only intend to make one mod.

a decent digital multimeter is required, as is a Soldering iron.

A Breadboard is very useful to ensure everything works as it should, before you have it all finished and put in the case.

those are all I can think of right now, sure there are others people use regularly though

awesome. thanks so much for all of your help! i think this is the last question i had. going to wait a couple days and then start ordering parts:

• 60%, layout, underglow, white LEDs, holtites, QMK
  
  
• ORG60: $22
  
  
• Aluminum case and plate: $68
  
  
• Genuine Cherry stabs: $10
  
  
• Kailh Box Red or Heavy Yellows: 21
  
  
• White LEDs: $6
  
  
• Holtites: $30. Opting for these over KBDfans' offerings
  
  
• DSA PBT keycaps: $57
  
  
• Soldering kit: $18
  
  
• Total: $230ish
  
  Soldering kit has 5 levels and will be used to solder LEDs and to help fit holtites in.

Looks like you got an even cheaper iron that looks very similar, but wanted to mention I just got this soldering iron and I'm very happy with it.

Also, I got some soldering wick, which I much prefer to the solder-sucker. My mind was blown by how much easier my life got with solder wick.

I also got one of these, which is nice.

TLDR: No instructions came with the DIY kit, which is probably fine for the most part, but I had no idea wtf i was doing, so I wanted to post some info in case others were running into the same lack of how-to information when it came to simple stuff like "which wires do I solder to the usb-a/usb-c/aviator (gx16-4) connector?" or even "How to fish the cable through the paracord/techflex sleeving?" Also to see if any assumptions i made were wrong before I plug this into the Massdrop ALT keyboard that's en route.

​

Prior to attemping this, I haven't done anything electrical related anything, didn't own any of the tools other than a set of wire cutters and I basically didn't know what search terms to even search for.. so keep that in mind when reading. Also, ZapCables weren't taking orders when I wanted to make an order, so I figured "how hard could it be for a newb?" Wrong.

​

Things I still don't know:

- [solved: it works!] I'm not sure if my cable actually works because I don't own any USB-C devices other than a power bank that has a USB-C connection. I plugged it in to an ac adapter connected to the wall then connected it to the power bank and it turned on AND the cable didn't melt (hooray), so I assume power is working.

- I have no idea how to test if the rest of it works. I realized after I pieced this all together I probably could have tested the connections somehow, but I really don't want to dismantle this thing now. I'm planning to just plug it in to the ALT when it arrives and do a rain dance in the hopes that everything works.

​

Assembly Steps

​

Step 1: I bought a cheap soldering kit off of amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and hoped for the best.

​

Step 2: Stripping the usb cable and incredibly tiny wires inside

- Wire Cutters/wire stripping tool: this worked fine for the USB cable casing, but not for the wires inside. For the inner wires, it only worked 50% of the time because I couldn't get the feel right and kept cutting the strands of the wires when peeling them off. I bought a wire stripping tool and the one i got didn't work as the wires were too small. SIGH.

​

- Soldering iron: i saw some people just melt the casing off, and this kind of worked, but because the already tiny ass wires were stranded (had even more impossibly thin wires inside), the plastic melted between the strands and it took just as long to clean it off before tinning the wire.

​

- What worked for me: I ended up figuring out I could use the soldering iron to melt the plastic away to create a notch where I wanted to start stripping the wire away. Once I melted around the wire, I used my fingers and pulled the plastic off, and the underlying strands of wire were clean and in tact.

​

Step 3: Tinning the stripped wires

- What worked for me: I set the soldering heat on the soldering iron to be around 350deg or a little less as I found any higher and the solder would burn and disappear before I could get it on the wires. I took the tweezers and twisted the strands so they would not come apart when applying heat. Then I heated up the twisted wire with the soldering iron and put the solder on it and moved it all around. Seemed to work.

​

Step 4: Soldering tinned wires to the connector USB-A connector

- I have no idea if I did this correctly. Even though the packaging for USB-A had the wires in order GND, D+, D- and VCC marked, it wasn't clear to me which orientation to have the connector so that the label made sense. I assumed if your wires are on the left, and the connector is on the right, then the top connection point on the USB-A connector was GND. The connection points weren't labeled sooooo I hoped for the best. Once that was done, i assembled the rest of the connector's metal casing. To solder, I added heat to the tinned wire and it connected. I was paranoid about having the solder spread to the other connection points (the USB-C connector has no barriers unlike the A) so i didn't add extra on top.

​

Step 5: Fishing the cable through the paracord/TechFlex

- There's some videos of how to do this for the paracord on youtube, but I couldn't find a way to hack it and make it faster, so i pushed it through one aggravating inch at at time. The Techflex was easy because.. well it can flex.

​

Step 6: Soldering the male side of the Aviator/GX16-4 to your USB cable

- I don't think it matters if you choose male or female part of the connector. I chose the male side because it was easiest to detach the cover (just unscrew it) and expose the solder points. First I threaded the cable through the heat shrink to the USB-A connector. You don't have to do this but I found not all of the heat shrink pieces I got could fit over the connector. Next, I threaded the USB-Cable with the paracord/techflex through cover that was just unscrewed and left it on the cable. Looking at the male GX16-4 solder points, they are labeled 1-4, and I chose the soldering points 1:GND, 2:D+, 3:D-, 4:VCC. You'll do the same for the female connector.

​

Special note: I emailed ZapCables because I was initially confused AF when I saw the GX16 connector and had no idea what to do. John promptly replied with the tip about the labels. Thanks John! He also mentioned they might be making their own tutorial which I think they should do because I found this hard given I don't have any experience doing this.

​

When the soldering was done, I connected the GX16-4 cover back to the male connector. Be sure not to twist the cable while you're re-attaching. I ended up tearing the wires off from over-twisting and proceeded to die inside when I realized I had to do it all over.

​

At this point, you have half the cable and it's pretty much the same for the other half EXCEPT that for the female GX16-4 cable, detaching the cover to expose the solder points requires you have an small screw driver to unscrew yet another miniscule screw. The set of tiny screw drivers I use for my glasses/computers was not small enough, I was able to find one that worked in a random set i had in the garage. The size was not marked, so I have no idea what to tell you guys :( If you manage to get it off, twise the cover 1/4 rotation to the left and then pull.

​

Step 7: Do steps 2-6 for the other side of the cable + female GX16-4 connector

​

If you decide to go this route and you also have no idea what you're doing, I suggest you definitely order a little more length for the usb cable/paracord/techflex. I got a 4ft cable, and in the end, with connectors on and all, i'm 3-4 inches short of 4ft because of all the mistakes I made.

​

I hope this helps someone who wants a nice cable but can't be bothered to wait.. but can be bothered to be frustrated by the assembly process.

​

*Edit: grammar/spelling*

​

EDIT: Update on the cable, some of the parts that i soldered between the cable did not have a good connection, bending the wire ever so slightly would cause the keyboard to connect/disconnect, so i probably have to redo the connections to the male/female gx16-4 connectors.

​

EDIT2: After a quick email to ZapCables, John mentioned that i had too much exposed wire that was touching (near solder points) and suggested I resolder with less exposed wire to prevent this from happening. Rather than do that and figure out how to desolder, I took some electrical tape and wrapped any exposed wire connecting at the solder points to the USB-A/USB-C/GX16-4 connector. Happy to say, it's all working and I am now successfully using this cable. 5/5 for ZapCables and John for help.

Okay, I've never tried this but I would recommend trying to use 1206 SMD LEDs, they're about 1/8x1/16 of an inch. The one I linked makes a red-orange when lit and runs about $10 for 100 LEDs. Since you need it to look like trailer lights I'd connect them with hard steel, like a paperclip bent/cut how you need it. 1206 is pretty big for SMD LEDs, but in case you can't solder it you can use electrically conductive adhesive. Just dip the end of the wire in there and get it to stick to the LED or apply with a toothpick.

I have only used it on my bike a couple times, but I love my Weller Portasol

It heats up fast, solders well, and the little butane exhaust port on the tip works perfectly for shrink tube.

Thanks! Soldering isn't too hard (I also was afraid of soldering). It's intimidating at first, but after a couple hours of doing it, you'll get more comfortable with it. Getting a cheap mech to practice soldering/desoldering on would probably help you get acquainted with the whole process. This is the soldering iron I used, and this is what I used to desolder. I also used this to clean the tip of the soldering iron in order to make it perform more consistently.

From my expirence a soldering pump and braid will work but a cheap desoldering iron like this will work best and will be much easier.

ECG J-045-DS Electric Corded De-Soldering Iron, +420 Degree C Tip Temperature, 45W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3idKAb0PPDPBT

Not a bad idea - you're much less likely to electrocute yourself!

I can't stress enough the importance of good solder joints! Don't glob solder onto the iron and then apply to the piece of work. It's important to thoroughly heat the work until IT melts the solder and the solder is allowed to naturally flow into the nooks and crannies of the work.

Also, you are embarking on a way of life. This is a serious commitment of time and money. Do yourself a favor and buy a GOOD soldering station - not a cheap soldering pen!!!

I had never soldered anything before either, but I got one just to mess with my printers. Being able to snip off and reattach connectors, or extend wires on fans or solder some LED strip lights or whatever is a nice thing to be able to do yourself. This kit is pretty much complete for basic soldering and has been great.

I can't really say anything about this soldering iron, but do know that you always get what you pay for. I'm sure this will last for at least several soldering jobs for you. If you have to replace it even once, you're only $20 away from a nice unit. But I understand you have to budget your funds appropriately.


If you're going to to go with a budget soldering iron, you'll be better off buying something without a bunch of extra bells and whistles (more junk you're paying extra for).

Something like this is cheap, and inexpensive, but will get the job done, without spending extra dollars on extra tidbits that are unnecessary.

If you're gonna go cheap, go cheaper!

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NUS-Medium-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG6UQ

you'll pretty much have to get a soldering kit but they are pretty cheap on amazon.

There have been a few posts in /r/DIY recently about making them (this or this for example) reading the comments there will probably help. /r/RetroPie/ will also be a good resource, people are always posting their latest builds. I haven't done one like this personally but reading those makes me think I could if I wanted to.

As for 3D printing, check your local library. I know a few locally are starting programs for making stuff with a 3D printer and there are lots of plans for a case online (here for example)

I know I really didn't answer your question but hopefully I was helpful. Look forward to seeing what you end up making!

Yeah, I'm thinking I'll need a lot of practice before I can pull this off. I've been watching tutorials on youtube and I'm pretty sure I can do it, but I just need the right tools.

I can't seem to find "zero residue flux" on Amazon, does it go by another name? Also, what do you think about this for a basic soldering kit?

Anyway, I'd really like to do electronic repair and build stuff in the future, and this will just be the start, so I'll keep researching this. I appreciate your info. Thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-045-DS-Electric-Soldering-Temperature/dp/B00068IJSG

It works pretty well, but it tears through tips. I would say that one or two keyboards is about the life of a tip. It also starts to cool off if you do too many switches at once. However if you desolder and remove like 3 switches at a time it works great.

I use the Aoyue 701A+, but a lot of people really like Hakko irons, here, like the FX-888. Honestly, it really depends on how much soldering you're going to be doing. I really don't recommend spending $80+ on an iron if you're only ever going to solder one or two boards, because that's not very good value. A lot of people recommending irons forget that. If you only plan to do a board or two, I'd recommend something with a lot of value, like this. This is what I started on. Nothing special, but a lot of features for this price and it worked fine for my first two boards.

Get yourself one of these soldering kits. It has everything you need to get started with soldering (though I recommend using solder wick instead of the pump for desoldering.) Just be sure to tin the tips with solder to prolong their life and help with heat transfer, and never blow on a fresh blob of solder to cool it; it give the joint air pockets which can corrode and degrade the joint over time.

Get some Bourns 500k push-pull pots (I recently bought a pair for $16 from an Amazon marketplace seller) for both controls. You could wire them up to coil split each pickup independently (assuming they have 4 conductors) as well as to bypass the controls entirely, have one pickup active all the time, etc. They're incredibly versatile.

Also, some new pickups and a Switchcraft jack will help immensely.

I was thinking something like this:

http://www.frys.com/product/2931025

but I have not actually done it.


I once broke off the end of touchpad ribbon cable for a laptop -- I scraped the new end with an exacto knife and inserted into connector and another soldered to a board.

they also have conductive greese:

http://www.frys.com/product/4707359

If you do that you would need to put little bit on the traces and then drops of super glue on both sides and between each trace.

Or this on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Electrically-Conductive-Soldering-Wire/dp/B000Z9H7ZW

and maybe you can find something like this in the auto parts store

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-21351-Electrically-Conductive-Defogger/dp/B000HBGKWE


And, oh yeah, that stuff you linked at RadioShack looks good, too.


The scraping part will be hard to do without breaking so be carefull.

If you have none of those tools and that's all you can afford it's not the end of the world but in general you should beware most any "entry kit" type product like that. I just looked on amazon and there are kits like this for under $30 that include a soldering iron, tweezers, solder sucker, and even a fucking multimeter all in a travel case.

Looks great on the surface but what that really means is that all of those tools are hot garbage to leave them any room for profit. Maybe they'll be fine, maybe they won't, but they're definitely going to be the cheapest versions available.

Try to focus your money on specifically the tools you need and look for something in the middle of the price range among available options and you'll be fine.

I recently bought a cheapo desoldering iron that I haven't had a chance to burst out, this one here and while I haven't used it yet logically it seems to be the easiest way to desolder as long as it works. You almost even could get a free hand if you were clever with it.

As an avid hater of desoldering braid, $25 for that tool was worth it to save my frustration.

oh lol the ebay link wasn't there for some reason when I originally replied, now I see it clearly says °C on the dial

Anyway, I've heard the one you linked is fine for quick soldering work. It would probably work for you, but that stand is kinda iffy in my opinion. I would prefer a wire stand that encloses the entire iron so that it's a lot harder for it to fall off and burn something. For a cheap-o set, this one seems pretty okay and is cheaper and probably better than the eBay one: https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Electronics-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MP976EM3NYM02Y0YG0FM

I got a Tenma 21-10120 soldering station from my local MicroCenter for around $60. It has a digital readout and shows not only the temperature you set but also the actual current temperature of the iron. It didn't come with anything else, though, so I had to also get solder core, desolder pump, solder wick, wire cutters, and for the heck of it a brass tip cleaner. Altogether, my set probably came to just under $100.

Semi-related, always wear eye protection when soldering. I also use nitrile gloves to reduce the risk of lead poisoning. I still wash my hands after solder work, but that's mostly to clean the sweaty feeling off my hands from being in gloves.

This was my gateway drug to the 32 ft of workbench space that now contain an oscilloscope, a reflow oven, a stereo microscope, 3 soldering and hot air rework stations, and hundreds of boxes of pinhead sized components along with dozens of sensors for different things.

I'm enjoying my trip down the rabbit hole :D

I linked that video because I used my wife's expensive tweezers to place the components because I was too excited to wait for the proper ESD safe ones later in the video.

Gratz on your boards!

Hakko FX601-02 - This model is pretty popular for stained glass. I picked it up and am very happy with it. Heats up super fast and doesnt go cool too quickly which is good for this work. Wattage might seem low but it doesnt need as much wattage as a typical solder pen. Temp control is a good feature.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPSX3G

I haven't tested this one myself but it seems like this is some good bang for your buck:

https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M

I bought the soldering iron and the replacable tips on ebay, but they're coming from China so it'll be a while before I can vouch for them hope this helps a but.

Thank you for the recommendation. I still feel like I'm leaning towards the less expensive model because I don't understand what the extra 50 bucks gets me. My other hobby is guns, and I go through this all the time with new gun buyers- "Why should I get a glock when a Hi point does the same exact thing (shoot bullets) for $350 less" then sure enough, a few months later they are trading their shitty Hi point for a glock. It's no thatthey are stingy, they just aren't educated enough to understand the greater reliability, features, aftermarket support, etc that spending the extra couple hundo buys em... Anyways, I recognize that I am an uneducated buyer, and I don't want to be Hi point guy!

Can you give me an idea of what the advantages of this iron are vs a less expensive model, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPSX3G?cache=9eadc5f058366bac4fcb6fef6c6934d2&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1406100528&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Also, will a light user such as myself (I might do two okr/raptor boxes and one random repair/small project) really be getting a better user experience and making better solder joints with the Hakko?

Opinions on these three soldering irons? It's only use will be for keyboards, and I don't anticipate building them as often as we all dream, haha. But I do want one that'll do the job well without going over the $100 mark, and preferably under $80 if any of these are decent.

Hakko Dial type temperature limiting soldering iron FX600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MQD7M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pBXMAb3DXH857

Hakko FX601-02 Adjustable Temperature Controlled Soldering Iron, 67 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPSX3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UDXMAbYNHEAWS

UY CHAN Upgraded Original TS100 Digital OLED Programmable Pocket-size Smart Mini Outdoor Portable Soldering Iron Station Kit Embedded Interface DC5525 Acceleration Sensors STM32 Chip Fast Heat (B2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDTO6X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CEXMAb7A2CDNW

I've had really good success with a desoldering iron. It has generally worked a lot better for me than solder wick, although I've never used flux, as I see other people here recommend. I do often add some rosin core solder with lead to the joints, though, in order to lower the melting point.

I am a big fan of the portosol soldering irons. If solder twice a year, Get a cheap electric. ~$10

If you work on projects now and then that require a fair amount of work. I recommend gas. It gives you the fine grain control you need. They run about $50-$100


http://www.amazon.com/Portasol-011289250-Piezo-75-Watt-Heat/dp/B003HHK7KG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407993065&sr=8-2&keywords=portasol



If you end up soldering daily, invest in a good electric work station. You can pay ALOT of money for one. But they are worth it.

Just to add on to what /u/QuantumCakeIsALie mentioned, in the case of desoldering, a good tool is the best investment.

If you don't want to be holding a pump in one hand, with a desoldering iron in the other, you can consider getting this.

Starting out with a basic 20W handheld iron is fine. You dont need a complex temperature controlled one for you first few projects. Get a little stand so you can put it somewhere safe after each step.

Use leaded solder while you are learning as its easier to work with. Just avoid inhaling the smoke (or even get a small fan filter) wash your hands after working.

Get a basic handheld solder sucker to correct basic mistakes.

A kit like this actually looks pretty solid to start with!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1IFT54/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493103880&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=soldering+iron&dpPl=1&dpID=51YRK651M%2BL&ref=plSrch

Use the soldering tip to heat the PCB pad and leg of the part at the same time for about a second and then touch the solder to the opposite side of the leg to the iron. Solder should flow even and form a gentle cone shape.

• Dremel 3000 (minimum) and metal cutting blades. Doesn't matter if you aren't cutting metal, they cut through plastic like butter. Why 3000? As much as the 200 is good for beginners, the 3000 is MUCH better with variable speed control.
  
  
• Different sized screwdrivers. Not all screw ports are made the same.
  
  
• For electronic mods- a soldering iron. Get yourself a Weller 25w one and a bunch of MT10 chisel tips to go with it.
  
  
• Plastic Snipper thingies These may be a tad expensive, but mine last about a year each.
  
  
• Disposable gloves (I like nitrile). I HATE having epoxy putty and epoxy on my hands. Disposable gloves are great for painting, epoxying, and everything else that gets your hands all dirtied up.
  
  
  
  If I think of any others, I'll add them, but that's a good start from me.

Highly recommend upgrading. I was like you, then I got this (link below), and my whole quality of life improved. Girls even like me now!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DJRYIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not sure what you mean by "...more controlled way to connect each button to ground".

As far as connecting wires to pins, soldering is often the best way. A tutorial on soldering would probably be useful if you've never done it before. I recommend lead free solder, some flux, and a cheapo soldering iron with a finer chisel tip. Such as, this one. Or, something comparable. Flux: Rosin Flux. You want to make sure it's a thick rosin based flux otherwise you may have to obsessively your joint and the surrounding area.

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Google images:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/gc_diagram1.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yy4Wdbp3cpM/VRYTb7T4fGI/AAAAAAAAAbU/AcAbPTgP05g/s1600/2015-03-27%2B17.22.34.jpg

http://gc-forever.com/mega/Ashen/Controller_Trimming/1.png

​

The button work by closing the circuit to ground. Personally. I would just solder the wires to the corresponding contacts on the PCB simply because it would make trouble shooting easier on an unknown board. A daisy chain could be fine, but only if all those grounds are a common ground, but with signals I'm not sure that can be relied upon. If they aren't a common ground, linking them could lead to unexpected/undesired behavior. You could probably use a voltmeter to carefully explore if they are a common ground, and if you find that they are, your daisy chain idea would probably be fine. I would use solder and cover joints with shrink tubing.

If you are willing to drop a little bit of coin, but don't want to go too crazy this guy is pretty popular: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=33Z9SEU0RU74U&coliid=I177ELVX243CET

For starting out, and into the foreseeable future, one like this would probably server you just fine: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NKUS-Watt-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG7F0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421030141&sr=1-2&keywords=weller+soldering+iron

Well, it's not ideal for electronics, but 20USD will get you a 40W Weller iron. For larger joints it's fine, but definitely not great for small stuff/temperature sensitive work.

Keep in mind that for a mere 45USD, Sparkfun sells this temperature controlled iron. Granted it's not in stock right now.. but it's a darn good price for a regulated station.

Actually, I'm really excited to try something ...


I want to lay out the board in plastic, maybe 1mm, with grooves for wires to run. Then, I want to leave holes, probably 2mm diameter, that will fit two wires, or 1 wire and one pin. If I can design it on one layer, or at least with minimal overlap, I can make a second piece that glues down to it, and make all the solder connections with solder glue (http://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Electrically-Conductive-Soldering-Wire/dp/B000Z9H7ZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426020527&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+glue)


So, ideally, I could spend all my time in design, and end up with something that can be printed/assembled in about an hour.


I'm thinking I could use the 3D printer to emboss the logo over the battery-cover, and leave the micro-controller and Flash chip bare.


Like I said, I think I've probably gone too far down the rabbit hole on this one. I've got the whole thing laid out in my head. I'll probably just order parts this week, and start working as soon as they get here.

I would add that the soldering iron must have a pointy tip! I've been trying to replace my modules, but the stock tips are huge (for the intended work) I could not reach the spots to melt.
The one i'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Also, be sure that the Torx are Security Torx! They have the hollow star shape and also an inside round tip. https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=pd_sbs_469_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004YUB6ZU&pd_rd_r=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR&pd_rd_w=jAo1O&pd_rd_wg=DYMkI&psc=1&refRID=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR

Soldering is an extremely valuable skill for this sport, is cheap to get into (this twenty dollar kit is more than sufficient), and will allow you to take advantage of cheap RC packs from HobbyKing and re-solder them yourself. It's definitely worth the mild investment in time, money, and effort.

It shouldn't be too difficult, but... It's kind of a "good news / bad news" situation.

The good; The actual process of disconnecting the mic, stripping the connection, and soldering in the new jack would take maybe 10 minutes, assuming you don't care how pretty it is. A cheap soldering kit with a meter like the one I just found HERE is all you really need, tool wise. Add another few bucks for the new jack and you're all set.

The bad; Line level and mic level are quite different beasts, so simply replacing a mic-in with a line-in could lead to some pretty bad distortion. The ease of the project is entirely dependant on the quality of the tape deck we're talking about. Basically, there are two ways this could go: Either you pull out the mic and it's an entirely enclosed system that the maker added on after designing the rest of the unit, or it's just a mic that sends a raw signal to processors on the main circuit board. There could be extra problems with both scenarios, but the first one is what you're hoping for. No matter what, it may require additional gear to either amplify or attenuate the line-in signal to match the original input level.

I'm sure there are a ton of people who are FAR more experienced than I am with this, so you really should hold out for someone who could do it better. I haven't touched a soldering iron in over a decade, but I do have a degree in audio, so it's not like I'm a complete novice. If nobody else steps up, I could at least take a look and tell you how hard of a project it would actually be.

I just bought this and this when i swapped my MX switches out. I mean i guess if you want to get into the SMD hobby it wont be the best, but for just general stuff or using it once in a blue moon to mod your KB it's been perfectly fine.

Oh and this and this helped alot.

Yeah, funny, you know? I want a reason to have a cool lighter.

I think maybe the closest thing would be something like this.

I am using this currently but this is coming in the mail tomorrow ;) along with some more lube and solder.

Edit: I have built all of my boards with the Weller without any issues. I also have a desoldering iron which is 10x better than the pump. If you ever plan on desoldering pick yourself up the desoldering iron for the extra 10 bucks. The solder pumps will break and you will end up spending that much on them anyways so its definitely worth it.

I would not generally use a soldering gun for circuit boards.

Here's a 12w iron on amazon.com. Only $13. Weller is a good brand.

This 25w kit seems to include a small roll of solder. For electronics, you want something like 60/40 rosin core. I've used Kester brand solder since 1970. I'm happy with it.

If you also need to remove solder, get a sucker and some desoldering wick. Wick comes in different widths; order various widths, or guess at the optimal width for your circuit boards.

Sweet. DOETT!

For desoldering the old switches (and diodes), I'd recommend this: http://amzn.to/2EWtuLJ it has worked well for me.

I'd recommend that when you install diodes on the new PCBs (if you do new PCBs) that you install them on the opposite side of the PCB as the switches.

While it isn't possible to replace the switches without soldering, the solder job is a lot simpler than it seems. Just watch a good tutorial and get a decent 20 dollar solder kit off amazon and you'll be set. It's a good skill to learn. This solder set is amazing and actually comes with a solder sucker which you need to replace a switch anyways. I've used it hundreds of times and it's held up very well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5pV3Bb60EXNJ0

Is there a big quality difference between that and something like this?

Soldering Iron Kit for Electronics, Yome 19-in-1 60w Adjustable Temperature Soldering Iron with ON/OFF Switch, Digital Multimeter, 5pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Desoldering Pump, Screwdriver, Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9RLBR1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A2nSDb8JPDAZN

It includes pretty much everything I need and would save me a bit not having to buy everything separately.

I just ordered 3x digital temp control switch for $10.80 shipped. Also 3x 3 pin fan controllers for $7.17 shipped. Along with a few different 4 pin and 3 pin fan plugs and adapters. New Weller 40w soldering pencil for <$20 after 20% discount.

I'm ready to automate my fans! :D I'm hoping to run 2 thermostats and 2 fans from one DC 12v psu. I'm thinking something like exhaust starts at a lower temp, like 71.6F/22C, and stops at 68F/20C; intake starts at 80F/27C, and stops at 75F/24C. Give or take a few degrees..

Its never too late to learn how to solder, if its only a few switches that are like this you can buy some Gateron switches individually or in a 10 pack and replace the bad ones.

A decent soldering kit that comes with everything you need can be bought at amazon for less than 20 bucks, with a solder sucker included and if you want even easier solder removal you can get one of these desoldering iron pumps - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apap_4HuPH8htp6ZEX

There's plenty of switch desoldering tutorials over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards, and if you need help just make a post and I'm sure plenty of people will be glad to help you out.

That soldering iron heats to 925 degrees F according to the packaging, and about 650 to 750 degrees is more appropriate for PCB work. However, if you're quick you could probably get away with using it. You shouldn't be holding the iron to anything on the PCB for "a few seconds". Also, your solder wire (which I can see in the picture of your iron) is too thick. What is it, 0.062"? 0.020 to 0.025" is ideal for most PCB work, and I wouldn't go any bigger than 0.032".

You don't need an adjustable temperature iron. If you want to play it safe, you can just get a lower wattage non-adjustable iron, i.e., 15 to 25 watts. Those will reach equilibrium at a lower temperature than your 60 watt iron will. Something like this for example - https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP23LK-25-Watt-Soldering-Iron/dp/B0009ZD2AG - which reaches equilibrium at 750 degrees. It also comes with a couple of chisel tips, which is what you should use to most efficiently transfer the heat (due to having a lot of contact area) so you can solder quickly. With high end irons like the 13.56 mHz Metcals, small conical tips work perfectly (especially the bent ones), even for relatively large joints, but those work on a completely different principle than inexpensive, conventional irons.

ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nWIuDbBKN0ZKR

It's a best seller on Amazon. It has an on and off switch on the cord as well as a simple temp control knob that seems to work pretty well. It comes with kinda crappy solder. I would pick up some 60/40 solder (my preference).

I got one of these a while back and it makes desoldering really easy. I'd recommend you get one and do it yourself - it would likely be both quicker and cheaper :)

It wasn't one of the easiest things to desolder. I lifted a pad for the first time and had to hand wire one switch. I used one of these and soldering wick to do the whole thing.

I love the build quality and layout of the board, but I need MX clears, so it was worth desoldering the thing IMO even though there were a few headaches.

Here's every desoldering tool I've used so far, from worst to best:

1. The one that came with my soldering station: lasted a week before falling apart.
   
2. The one I bought from radioshack. Lasted 2 weeks before falling apart.
   
3. ECG J-045-DS: Awkward to use, doesn't suck very well, no temperature adjustment, takes a long time to heat up, sprays hot solder everywhere instead of solid chunks like with the non-powered pumps.
   
4. Tenma 21-8240: Recommended by someone on this sub. Has similar issues to the ECG, except it's far less awkward to use and it does have decent suction. However, the handle is poorly insulated so it gets pretty hot after a while.
   
5. Engineer SS-02: Biggest issue with this one is dry solder getting stuck in the silicone nozzle, but that's been happening less and less as I've used it more. Good suction, good construction, no need to use a second outlet.
   

You probably broke off the ground wire. Unscrew the jack plate and have a look. If there's only one wire attached to the jack, there's your problem. You'll need a soldering iron, but the repair is super easy.

If you don't have a proper vacuum desoldering gun something like this or this is probably worth it just for this mod. It'll save you a decent amount of time and make things easier.

I recently bought one of these for myself and I couldn't be happier as a DIY hobbyist:

Hakko Dial type temperature limiting soldering iron FX600

I only use it for hobby stuff such as Quadcopters, 3D printers and electronics kits but it's way better than the 8watt USB powered I was using before.

Pair it with this and this and you should be good for a while and roughly within budget.

2$ .7 over Cartridge Restoration

4$ .27 over New Wish List

6$ .26 over Movies/TV

8$ .40 under Cartridge Restoration

thank you for the contest!!!!

Not sure if you still need help, but from what you describe, I think that this is a great kit for you. It's cheap and provides enough power to do what you need to do.

If you really want to learn, pick up a small kit like this, like 7 to 10 switches, and like 10 of any kind of keycap, and finally grab a soldering iron.


All that is around $50 total, and places like keeb.io have really detailed guides on how to assemble their PCBs. It's really not hard once you understand what to get, and once you've built even a small macro pad like that, you'll be able to build even hand wired keyboards no problem. They're really simple once you learn the basics! It's pretty much just legos, but really tiny and using a hot stick.

Yes works great with leds!

Tenma 21-8240 Vacuum Desoldering Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apap_4HuPH8htp6ZEX

Alright, so you basically have 3 options depending on how much soldering you plan to do. If you're just gonna build one or two keyboards and and will never try to do SMD, I recommend this:

• https://www.amazon.com/Tabiger-Soldering-110V-Adjustable-Temperature-Welding/dp/B01H1IFT54
  
  If you think you're gonna do this a lot, OR you've already had the cheap iron and want something better, you have two choices:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Soldering-Station-599-029/dp/B00C2BHTBI
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WESD51-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000ARU9PO
  
  The Hakko is recommended by basically everyone here, and is widely used in the hobbyist world. I've used the Hakko a few times at TechShop, and it's a good station. However, I've never seen anything but a weller used commercially. I picked up a weller for my own station, I couldn't be happier with it.
  
  No matter which of these 3 you end up you'll be happy.

You really don't need anything special. Just make sure it has a good pointed tip. This or something similar should be good if your just changing LEDs every now and then.

Also don't for get flux!

J&L 60 Watts Soldering Iron, UL listed by J&L http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tjKXtb0TK5AQQ

MG Chemicals 835 Liquid Rosin Flux, Non Corrosive and Non Conductive residue MG Chemicals http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080X79HG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_WlKXtb1MS6ZZ8

Can't go wrong with this, $19.07 shipped with Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NUS-Medium-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1398198851&sr=8-3&keywords=weller+40

If you need something safe for smaller projects as well, this would be fine. $41.19 with Prime
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398198808&sr=8-2&keywords=weller+40

I guess I'm a fan of weller products. I've had them at home and a shop. I got one of their higher end soldering stations when I was about 11 to build my own battery packs for my R/C cars and it saw a lot of use. Back then we hardwired the leads from the ESC to the motors and batteries between heats for the lowest resistance. (not to mention deans plugs weren't a thing yet, tamiya connectors would melt together with a hot motor/battery combo) I still have it over 20 years later.

I would say 40 watts is about the standard with typical R/C projects. Also, the lower end brands 40 watt irons don't ever seem to create the heat as something of decent quality.

Also, if you don't have something like this yet, pick one up. $7 shipped all over Amazon. Also available at Harbor Freight for about the same price if you have those in your area.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TB7X5RYFKZ3SR4EXY1P

I have one those wood-burning irons. Kind of like this one - link. I believe that is pretty much the same thing. And it's from a dollar-store. I don't mind if it will get solder on it.

If you've got a nice hefty budget, if recommend a Hakko soldering iron. If you wanna go cheap, make sure you get one with a temperature control. [Here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YA2CzbK19K8S7) is a cheap one that would do the job. I've used that model to build two let's splits. Go to YouTube and watch some "how to solder" videos

The best way to remove a switch when you don't have a desoldering iron like this (you can get cheap ones too, like this one or this one) is to basically use a mix of a solder sucker and wick to suck up as much as you can. Then stick a screwdriver under the switch, and alternate heating and pulling out the two contacts until the switch pops free

Any old iron will work. I used this $9 iron to fix my Hubsan many times.

I have a Hako now and it is MUCH nicer and easier to use but a pencil iron will get the job done for small projects like the Hubsan. If you plan on doing scratch builds or other projects that require soldering I highly suggest getting a variable temperature iron with integrated thermostat.

This is the best cheap iron I've ever used. Won't replace a quality iron but much better than $20 should get you.

Tabiger Soldering Iron Kit 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with Tool Carry Case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Di7HAbT8K8W6F

That cheapo one is the other one I had been considering, but people complained that it clogged very easy (reviews here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJSG) , whereas the one I linked did not. However, I look at that and think "yeah, but the pump is easier to use, I bet."

As far as cheap-as-hell tools go, I'm kind of hoping I made a decent call. I should make an excuse to use it in the next few days.

I was thinking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX601-02-Adjustable-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00FZPSX3G/
which would be possible anywhere a mains powered iron is. Using a station in the field would be a little overkill :)

though now that I see that I remember I have a hakko 15w iron that's unregulated, and it worked well enough when I used it.

Buy a soldering iron and take the dive!! I bought this: Tabiger Soldering Iron Kit 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with Tool Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JcZyCb5EPZ0J1 and have used it on multiple projects happily. I’m sure better soldering irons are worthwhile, but this is all you’d need to fix that switch. Oh.. also a replacement switch... details

Have you considered a dedicated desoldering pump like this? Should be easier than the cheapo vacuum ones or solder wick.

Is even one like this too expensive? Pretty much any iron is usable.

This. You can find decent starting irons on Amazon with solder. You might consider buying a few ”learn to solder" soldering kits from Amazon. They come with all the parts needed, and the instructions teach you how to assemble the components (you then have to solder them in the board it came with)

Iron set example: (good for basic /beginner projects) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1IFT54/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523313329&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=soldering+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51rAt23O28L&ref=plSrch

Electronics kit beginner example (these are fun to do imo)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002LUAL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523313465&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=elenco+soldering+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=519bj4ev-jL&ref=plSrch

If this is just a one time job and you don't have any other soldering tools you could use this pretty easily: https://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-045-DS-Electric-Soldering-Temperature/dp/B00068IJSG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497024421&sr=8-2&keywords=desolder+tool+tip

It will get the job done. I've harvested switches from 30+boards using a tool like this. It is tedious, but will safely remove the switches from the PCB.

For heat setting nuts and all around clean up, I have a Weller Wood Burning Kit.

It has a nice variety of tips, the flat ones are great for setting nuts.

Once you are up and running print one of these to hold everything - Precision Tool Holder

Those are fine but honestly you don't need all those extra bit and bobs.

Just get the same basic soldering iron off Amazon, a desoldering iron like this one or a desoldering pump.

This is why I love amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382719530&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering+iron

I have been looking for the same thing as you, and here have been some of the ones I've been considering:

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10707

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369866027&sr=8-1&keywords=aoyue+937

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP23LK-25-Watt-Soldering-Iron/dp/B0009ZD2AG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1369866094&sr=8-4&keywords=weller+soldering+iron

The first two are temperature adjustable which is a huge plus, however the Weller would suffice. Hope this helped!

I've used what's essentially this kit for something like 9 boards so far, and it's still going strong.

You don't really need to spend a lot, if it's just for a few little projects.

Wow, thanks for taking the time to explain this to me in detail, I really appreciate it. I fixed the link for the power supply, but it's basically just a 12V 5A (60W) power supply, so I think it should be sufficient.

I'm planning on picking up a soldering iron since I don't have one, I was looking at this set.

Just so I'm clear, when I want the panel on, I send 5V to the MOSFET to open it, and to control the "brightness" of the panel, I use PWM?

You have to have good temperature regulation and a bit of patience to make wick work. I use a desoldering iron which works well but struggles a bit with cheap lead free solder and makes your hand sore pumping the bulb thing over and over.

You can try something like a conductive glue and apply it with a toothpick.

http://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Electrically-Conductive-Soldering-Wire/dp/B000Z9H7ZW

In the reviews on there some guy talks about how he fixed an internal connector on his phone with it so worth a shot I suppose. I think taking it to a professional might cost you enough to warrant actually buying a second hand replacement phone if you so desire.

This is the iron i ordered. Comes with 5 tips. Looks like a couple are pretty small. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

It's super simple. If you have no interest in learning how to do it I would find someone with a soldering iron and have them do it. I bought this kit and all you would do it use a bit a solder to connect the two holes. A 20 second job.

I gotta put a plug in for this guy.

I used this to desolder a B.mini with relative ease. All it takes is a bit of patience and you're good to go!

I was hoping it didn't have to come to this.
Do you think this tool would be enough for one time usage?
https://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Soldering-Iron-60-Watt/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1475078341&sr=1-7&keywords=soldering
I'm not sure what else I can use a solder for.

Thanks.

I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M

It's cheap. It's chintzy. But it works just fine, and for occasional DIY stuff, it's perfect.

As cute as that is. My god the hits are going to be harsh! Try using a soldering iron for clean vape hits!

Hakko makes good ones. My dad's experience with Wellers are they die fast. (He solders all day for his business/I do it as a hobby). There is one that has a temp adjustment on the unit itself, which is pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MQD7M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the one I got him. he has been using it for four months, daily and all day. Still on the same tip.

https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M?crid=1NQ8NYDFHTHAE&keywords=soldering+iron+kit&qid=1539188799&sprefix=soldering%2Caps%2C1057&sr=8-5&ref=sr_1_5 This would be a great little kit for you.

That looks like a lot of solder from the picture. Maybe try ordering one of these, I found it to work better than a solder sucker...

Tenma 21-8240 Vacuum Desoldering Iron
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aegZzb1ZWPPJQ

Yeah, so far this is the frontrunner. Thanks for the comment!

As others have said, ADD solder. Also, big parts suck. You are going to have to get out your big iron, with a big tip. I am usually replacing parts on 30+ year old boards, not just salvaging. This means that pad damage is a No-Go. I will often clip the legs of ICs in order to remove them without damaging traces. Learning to test the ICs is something I'm getting better at so that I don't needlessly destroy or replace ICs.

I don't have a soldering pump, because I do fine for my purposes with a few other tools. My new favorite is this desoldering iron that resembles a solderpault. After that, I like this one with a good tip on it. For big stuff, I break out the big, 45W Fat tipped soldering iron and use a solder sucker to remove the solder.

I had some small amount of experience with soldering beforehand when I redid about 80-100 NES/SNES/N64 carts with battery holders. After that I successfully transplanted the chips from a broken Goldeneye board to a donor board. I did all of the carts with just a desoldering iron (https://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-045-DS-Electric-Soldering-Temperature/dp/B00068IJSG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504568020&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+iron), no soldering iron because of necessity. I did the Goldeneye switch with just a cheapo soldering iron though. One tip - the solder on the carts is a little hard to melt. It helps to add a bit of fresh solder to the existing joint to help melt the old solder.

You can get started now for pretty cheap. If you wanted to try and make an aux cable, you could follow my guide here, but I could recommend some cheaper materials so the up-front cost isn't so much.

I just bought some wire on Aliexpress that may be a cheap replacement for the mogami, and you can get a standard cheap soldering iron like this one if you plan on doing electrical work in the future anyway.

This maybe, or this. I spent no more than that on mine and it's seen me through 6 builds/rebuilds so far, and it's still working.

A proper soldering station is nice, but you can definitely get by with cheap stuff, especially if you don't plan on using it a ton.

This is a great way (and cheap) to get started. I used it for a LOOONG time before I upgraded: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WSB25WB-25-Watt-Barrel-Woodburning/dp/B000EMBEY0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474580064&sr=8-7&keywords=woodburning+tips

This is what I use to repair old consoles
Weller SP40NKUS 40-Watts Soldering Iron Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3SG7F0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5koSCbHNHK4S6
It's inexpensive and works great.

All you need is some solder and wick and this will literally only take a couple mins and you have a fixed Atari

I got this one. it works great

Tabiger Soldering Iron Kit 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with Tool Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Works great. Most everything you need is included.

I bought this ages ago, great kit. link here: amazon product page 19$

This is the one I bought and so far it’s been great.
Check it

You would need a desoldering iron.

The process is tough and time-consuming, but it's pretty much your only option.

A desoldering iron would have made short work of those joints and reduced the time and effort required.

Excellent work and post!

In the last few weeks, I've been researching the crap out of the craft of stained glass. It just looks so much fun and the final product is actually nice looking even if you mess it up! So I've made a list of all the supplies I'll need to get started on it. And the two most important tools for the job are a solder iron and a glass cutter! So these are definitely needed to start making stained glass art!

Chuck Finley

I use this [soldering iron](Tabiger Soldering Iron 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with Tool Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v0W4ybAC71YJM) with either the knife tip or the smallest tip. I turn the temp to the highest setting. Works great. Sometimes I have to make a couple passes but as long as the straight edge doesn't move it's not an issue. If it does move I just take my time to reset it. Webbing takes a little longer but again I just make a couple passes and it all works out.

If you're just going to be soldering switches, most any basic soldering kit will do fine. You should also get some Super Lube and Band-Aids to lube your stabilizers. Zealios are going to be the closest switch to Holy Pandas that you can find on kbdfans, though the different spring weights do change the feel a lot. You should order a switch tester pack with the different weights to get a feel for what you like.

Thanks for so many suggestions! I won't be doing much out of the ordinary. It's mostly occasional hobby stuff. The most complicated projects I can see myself taking on is the Useless box kit and the Mintypi emulator system, which, from what I've seen, don't seem to require a degree or god levels of skill, time, and precision to complete. Then again, that could just be me overestimating my own skill.

Since it has been a while, I've already submitted my Christmas list to my dad with all the stuff I want, and since we're on a budget I went with this set. It isn't a Hakko by any means, but it looks fine for what I need it for. I will definitely keep those Hakkos in mind, though. I'll be needing an upgrade for when I decide to pick up bigger projects in the future!

I have everything else covered except for the heat resistant mat. I can see it not only protecting my wooden desk, but also containing and solder bits that might fly around if I'm solder sucking away mistakes or oversoldering my iron (I'm so cautious it's unlikely, but you never know). I'll see if I can weasel it in. ;P

As far as soldering irons go, I've had relatively good luck with the 25W Wellers. I would ask your local hardware store if you can buy a box or half a box of them for a discount.

I would also look at structuring your projects so that they build on each other and have a low / cheap parts count. There are deals to be had.

Buy something cheap then if you find you’re using it often then go for Weller or Hakko. My brother swears by the Hakko but I use a Weller. But I highly recommend buying stuff when you need it.

Is this soldering kit any good?

https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538618726&sr=8-1&keywords=solder+kit&dpID=51cIDrNtObL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I want to get a cheap kit and practice de/resolding my old CM board and eventually buy a higher end kit. Will this kit be enough or do I have to go with something more expensive?

Then why did you not get it pre-assembled?

You can buy an iron for $8 on Amazon and a couple of bucks for solder.

or /u/chucklingkumquat offered his services for free.

Cheap soldering iron from Amazon. IMHO better than a drill because it doesn't leave little plastic shavings everywhere.

25W is too low. You want at least 40W.

Something like this would work better.

I like the portasol https://www.amazon.com/Weller-P2KC-Professional-Self-igniting-Soldering/dp/B000WOHSHM

because you can adjust the heat to do small or large jobs. and because you dont need an extension cord, its perfect for car work.

but just keep an eye on the tip so you dont burn it. if it turns blue, back it down. you just want it hot enough to get the work done.

I hear you, I OBSESSED over this for a few days. And I still got the first result on Amazon and wasted two days I could have been tinkering or doing anything else haha.

Here's the one I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like the price ticked up or I got a deal or something. Definitely get a helping hands or similar device to hold your projects, so incredibly helpful. Can find those at any hobby store or Amazon for cheap too.

Are you doing it with an iron or an actual desoldering tool? I bought one of these off Amazon and it's not perfect but it works quite well. It just takes some time to heat up and eventually you have to eject a mass of molten solder since it's all stored in the suction tube.