Reddit mentions: The best tool sets

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

Sure, here goes, but its up to you to figure out what is what:

1. Pagnol M1 jacket —
   This jacket was from the first run of jackets. The quality is great, and has improved since I got mine (my buddy got one from the next production run). Pockets for armor, good for 3 season riding (with some layers) Plus my tablet fits in the back protector pocket.
   
   
2. Stylemartin Boots — They look good and provide good protection. I can wear them all day. Except the laces they come with always give out on the shifter side (at least for me) so that's been replaced with paracord.
   
   
3. Simpson Street Bandit Helmet —
   Snell & Dot rated, good airflow and visibility. Installing a sena headset onto this was a breeze. Currently covered in bugs.
   
   
4. Sena 10C —
   The camera is pretty shitty but it's better than no camera. I try to use it as a dashcam. The build quality of the device is not the greatest as one of the clips on the device has broken off and I contacted customer support with no response whatsoever. Audio quality is good though. They are releasing a new device, the Sena 10C Evo, that looks like it solves some of the issues with the 10C.
   
   
5. Earplugs —
   These are awesome and cheap. They live in the pill container on my keys. So much better than foam earplugs.
   
   
6. Keysmart — Fuck jingly & pointy keys. A usb & multitool also lives on this guy.
   
   
7. Rev'it Dirt 2 Gloves — Good airflow, not much wrist protection. They are gloves but I have an extra long left middle finger or something, cause that finger always gives out first.
   
   
8. Cruz Tool Roll — I actually have the non BMW one, but need to add the torx tools to this. I also carry an extra tool set that isn't pictured. I recommend this toolkit for everyone. It's tiny and extremely robust, but hard to find.
   
   
9. External Battery USB — has a really bright light and can charge my things forever. Did a tour of Sri Lanka and charged this instead of finding outlets and adapters. The light even has a flashing and SOS mode.
   
   
10. Slime air compressor — Haven't really needed it yet but it's there.

In case you're curious

• I use thin trumpet valve oil, I happen to use this brand https://www.amazon.com/Al-Cass-Valve-Oil-fluid/dp/B002LI4Y92 but honestly pretty much any thin oil will work just fine, but it's gotta be thin!
  
  
• I use a metal precision oiler which is awesome and I highly recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LYQALQ
  
  Like Mr. Throws and Brews, I subscribe to the theory of "one drop of thin lube" as soon as you get a throw.
  
  https://youtu.be/GoGKRyksrbM?t=12m35s
  
  YOU ARE CORRECT SIR! Lubing your yoyo bearing is essential. Smoother, quieter. Raw metal on metal contact without lube doesn't work for engines, and does not work for bearings either. Rubbing steel on bare steel isn't awesome. Rust isn't awesome. Unlubricated bearing vibe isn't awesome. Eventually locking up your bearing isn't awesome.
  
  However, it is definitely true all you need is a teeny-tiny amount of THIN ONLY lube. Definitely don't use more than one drop! Don't obsess over the particular size of that one drop, but do limit yourself to one.
  
  After the one drop of thin lube, I then spin the bearing around with my finger, both directions a few times.. you should get 6 seconds (more is better but not required) of spin otherwise you're gona have some responsiveness. Just after you lube, you will not have that, but wait, here it comes.. next, use compressed air to push the bearing around at super hyper speed, this breaks it in (think of it as hours of hardcore yoyo play elapsing in seconds), while also pushing out any extra oil. Have a tissue handy to wipe away that excess.
  
  This one drop of thin lube plus compressed air megaspin technique works brilliantly for me, and all my throws are suuuper smooth. Cheers!

I've answered various questions about this system and the install several times in the last two months. Since it's getting asked again I'm going to leave the info here for all to see :)


I installed this in my car 3 months ago. The soundbox can be had for right around $250.00 shipped from http://www.oempartsource.com/oe-volkswagen/000051419.

IMO, don't pay anyone. The install is DIY and very straightforward. If you have use of your hands and some trim tools, you can do this install in under an hour with ease, if I had to do it again, I could probably get it done in under 30 minutes. If you're located in the SF Bay Area I can even help you. I highly doubt the cable run would be "neater" if the dealership did it, they'll rush through it, and the cable can really only go one place nicely anyhow. Zip ties are included in the Helix box so you can secure it. I used a few extra that I had.

I followed this DIY (there are two parts):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_1401645911&feature=iv&src_vid=mtvFvXa2AaY&v=6dKJtnaV9CU

The only specialty tools you need are:
Terminal removal tool (I'm told you can sub in a paperclip for this - I imagine if it's the right size it will work fine): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZOMMT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and radio removal tools (I'm told you can make your own with old gift cards): https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Volkswagen-Mercedes-Radio-Removal/dp/B007WUQUU0/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491250947&sr=1-8&keywords=vw+radio+removal+tool

When I installed, I elected to ditch my spare instead of placing it on top of the soundbox (I did this initially but decided against it after the first month for space reasons - I have a kid) and I carry one of these in the trunk now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DZFZPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lastly, once installed you will want to program the Sound Box DSP for use with your car. The product description states that the SoundBox unit is pre-programmed for the Golf/GTI. Trust me, it isn't (this is well documented on the GolfMK7 forums and elsewhere). So you want to rent the dongle for $35 here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19829 or go ask your local dealer if they'd do the programming for you at no charge. It literally takes under 2 minutes. Do not let them rape you at the dealer to program it.

Having done full systems with all new speaker wiring, component speakers, amp, DSP, and subs in cars when I was younger, I would say that at $250 the value on this thing is nothing short of amazing. It sounds pretty great. I also did sound deadening with SoundSkins Pro throughout the car.

There are a lot of different connector systems available, at a whole range of prices. The top of the line is Deutsch by TE Connectivity. Crimpers start at around $700 with a few turrets! Some mil spec circular connectors are over $100 for a single plug! Crazy expensive but it's the stuff they run on top level race cars.

That just won't do for project cars though. The best bang for the buck is Weather Pack connectors. They were originally a GM connector but they're pretty popular on all kinds of project and custom cars. A proper crimper is under $40 and a variety pack of connectors is like $60. With the right pin extractors and crimpers you'll find them to be very serviceable, waterproof, and reliable. They're not an extremely high cycle connector but they should be fine for regular service.

With any connector system the reliability comes from always using the right components and tools. Get the right pin for your wire gauge and crimp it correctly, use the right size seals for proper waterproofing, etc. There's plenty of information on how to correctly Weather Pack throughout the internet.

You probably got downvoted for recommending Craftsman...
I think Craftsman is just fine for an amateur - especially someone who's asking for advice on what to put in their toolbox.
There are some things you can go even cheaper on - Harbor freight sockets are good to have, as are their box wrenches. Anything that requires gripping (vice grips, pliers, etc.) I buy the best I can afford - cheap stuff will just strip itself and whatever you're trying to remove. Irwin (the original Vice Grip) makes good stuff for the money, IMO.
I really, really like this set from Craftsman for my truck - add a few types of pliers, channel locks, breaker bar, this cheapo bit set, hammer, magnetic pick up too, flashlight (a headlight is even better, especially on the side of the road), safety glasses, gloves, wire brush, electrical tape, duct/gaffer's tape, teflon tape and you have the ready for damn near anything box.

I replaced mine last week on my 2011 Speed and it was a learning experience. And yes the new part cured the false alarm issue. Here's a video on how to remove the door panel but not the actuator. Thanks to Ally at Everything DIY:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9wlWCF3LrA


I didn't read the service manual beforehand but I wish that I had. If you have questions feel free to ask.

Edit: Take lots of pics as you disassemble the inner door panel. Ally's video does a great job documenting the outer door panel.

Edit 2: A set of door panel removal tools are nice to have in your tool arsenal. I bought a set at Harbor Freight but these are very similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=szsGV&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0&pd_rd_r=6d79417f-a761-11e9-ba93-c31e6dacbe46&pd_rd_wg=8imSE&pd_rd_i=B01L8GHB7O&psc=1&refRID=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0


A hook and pick set is a must have as well:
https://www.amazon.com/GreatNeck-621-Piece-Hook-Carde/dp/B000CMDQ4S/ref=sr_1_25?crid=26BXJMU79EZG9&keywords=hook+and+pick+set&qid=1563237505&s=automotive&sprefix=hook+and+%2Cautomotive%2C191&sr=1-25

Congrats on the lights. I love my BD stuff.

Since you have done such a thorough writeup I thought I should mention, your seals are installed incorrectly. They should look like this when installed correctly.

https://i.imgur.com/O9Oiewj.jpg

That's why that part of the terminal isn't crimped fully around the wire in picture 9. Because it is meant to hold the seal in place around the wire.

I also don't recommend solder for most automotive applications. A proper crimp will last much longer for a lot of different reasons. It's also way faster when you have to do a couple hundred of these, ask me how I know.

Something like the crimper linked below will work for crimping the wire and the seal.

https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-Weatherpack-Crimper-Tool/dp/B002CCAEJ6

I really like how you documented the process, great writeup and pictures.

EDIT: After looking at the pictures again, it appears as though you crimped down the retaining tangs on the sides of the terminal. These tangs prevent the terminal from backing out the the connector. If you did, these terminal are not secure in the connector and should be fixed ASAP.

Here's something I think you would really like!


And this tea pot looks really nice!


I would love this cute vaporeaon plush!!

If he is like me, he has all the tools he really needs, but would love to have some of the luxury tools most of us do without. These are things that make the job easier, but we don't buy unless we have to.
A few ideas:
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6508-Full-Coverage-Master-Disconnect/dp/B000O1E54M/ref=pd_sim_auto_27?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3569-Terminal-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000I16DFM/ref=pd_sim_auto_33?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Products-95978-Master-Terminal-Tool/dp/B001BFQ3UY/ref=pd_sim_auto_42?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-TP40-Automotive-Back-Probe/dp/B000VRJGT8/ref=pd_sim_auto_84?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=pd_sbs_auto_29?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

um, yes?

someone posted earlier today about a new subaru with a chip-key getting boosted - that takes a lot of planning and skill, so it's not unreasonable to assume that a theft ring in search of a specific plate is going to have the equipment necessary to accomplish their goal.

sorry to break up your mediocre brag-fest about how awesome it is that you have tamper-resistant screwheads on your license plate though - i didn't realize it was important to your self-image.

edit: $11.95 for those wondering at home

Did your boyfriend post here a few days ago? If he didn't, then someone here came with exactly the same issue, in exactly the same state.

​

Multiple of us recommended just buying a tool to remove the wheel locks off. They're on Amazon, and if you're gentle about them you can return them and just say they didn't work. With prime you could've had them off by now, and your car fixed.

​

I get you, it's frustrating. But for the future, if your car has locking wheel nuts then make sure that they key is always returned back. I never leave a dealer without checking if I know the wheels have been off. I honestly don't see Kia paying for this, as it would be by word that the dealer lost your key. You are responsible after all.

​

This could've been solved, with a purchase on Amazon or another site in 2 days. Or you could've just found someone who works on wheels that was willing to come out and remove them. I'm sure even in remote upstate NY, you would've found someone.

​

Here's a few examples

​

https://www.amazon.com/Steelman-Pro-78537-16-Piece-Locking/dp/B00JF5F420?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

​

https://www.amazon.com/Shankly-Twist-Socket-Remover-Sockets/dp/B076WQMSVB?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

I'm not saying it should be your only set but I have had good luck with my little Chapman set. Economical and so far good quality and you can always have a basic set of tools with you.

At least get you started until you feel like sinking a few hundred into a Brownell's set. If you buy an extra extension you get the length need for stock bolts.

I agree with /u/VisualAssassin. You should have no issues using a drill press with a sharp/proper bit bending the material.

If they won't procure you a new bit or hole cutters it may be worth you picking up a few yourself. At least get a better bit to save your arm. You shouldn't have any issues using the drill press. I have this Blair set and they work amazingly well. They are. Then counter sink?

I love my Gearwrench stuff. I have the ratcheting wrenches and some socket stuff, the 120XP ratchets are amazing. I always grab them before my more expensive tools.

For your budget you can get a lot of wrenches:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002NYD1W/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511099834&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gear+wrench+ratcheting+wrench+set&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ney6Tn4JL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002NYD12/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511100241&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gear+wrench+ratcheting+wrench+set&dpPl=1&dpID=51MI3AtWo7L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MZ66M6O/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1511100494&sr=8-27&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gearwrench+stubby

Truth. Het a good set of tools trust me. Cheap ones are usually not very precise in their sizes and you will strip out heads over time. I use this one when I'm out and about.
Dynamite Startup Tool Set for Traxxas Vehicles, DYN2833 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JSV4M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bglkDbSS9BFWF

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7575-Radio-Removal-Tool/dp/B0002SRBJ8

Ford radio removal tool. Insert, flex both tools lightly towards the center of radio, gently pull out, light shaking may be needed. Pay attention to all the plug locations, but they all only fit one way. Very easy.

It's Vermont American, it's a pretty good set, the selling point was the Cornwell guy warranties them for life. The rethreading kit I have I use more frequently, it's available on amazon again the nice part for me is the warranty.

I have this precision Oiler pen and it’s fantastic. Has never leaked and is super compact.

I used these terminal cleaners to clean the ignition switch and connector terminals. Innovative Products 8040 3-Piece Diamond Grip Terminal Cleaner Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0062Y599K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tz7vCbKXE3WCN

Required: Screwdrivers (philips, hex, etc)

Optional but nice to have: hot glue gun, soldering iron


Edit: I once scored this set with a used buggy and it's the best thing ever. I always carry it with me when I go out bashing.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Startup-Traxxas-Vehicles-DYN2833/dp/B002JSV4M4

Yeah, looks like tri wing. You need a security bit set, or you can probably buy just that bit online, but you'd have to get the size right. Sets are cheap, here is one on Amazon with tri wing bits.

Neiko 10048A Premium Security Bit Set, Chrome Vanadium Steel | 100-Piece Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0fAOCbWT6QVB9

Drill and tap it, thread a bolt in, then pull it out. Slide hammer might be helpful.

If you can use a left-handed tap, you MIGHT even be able to get the lugnut loose in the process: turning left to tighten the left-handed bolt will also work to loosen the lugnut. Don't overdo it, because if you snap, strip, or break the left-handed bolt, you're now well and truly screwed.

Next time, use a 1/2 inch socket. Or better yet, a damaged bolt/nut remover socket (I own this set and it's saved my life.)

There are even larger ones made specifically for lug nuts

Or even bet

https://www.amazon.com/Car-Guy-Tools-Socket-Drive/dp/B078719VN1

This is my go-to gift for my mechanic/diy friends.

I linked these from amazon, just to show you. Both of these will make the job easier.

Pliers from amazon Use the round part on the end of the handle, put it on the top part of the spring and twist. Use the other end of the handle as a prybar to put the spring on.

[Hold down spring thingy] (http://www.amazon.com/Tools-2774-Shoe-Rtng-Sprg/dp/B0002SQU7W/) Removes the round hold down on the shoes.

This should help it has an end that will engage the stud and you just lever the spring on.

Everyone is saying that those are pentaobe screws. I'm fairly certain that they are security Torx Plus. They are easily available from many companies.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5905-Piece-Tamper-Resistant-Socket/dp/B004CGKQNO

yes this exactly, they are worth their weight in gold!

https://www.amazon.com/Chapman-MFG-5575-Master-Screwdriver/dp/B00682RIAY

I assume the hard part you’re referring to is getting the shaft of the butterfly through the seat. If so grab yourself a brake drum spring tool. They come in many shapes and sizes, the one you want has a long round shaft that tapers and has a hook or two little teeth at the end. All you do to assemble is slip the long end of the butterfly shaft through one of the seat holes. Then slide the drum brake spring tool through the other hole in the seat from the outside towards the center. Now twist the seat so you can get the drum brake tool to grab the short end of the shaft and roll the tool over the top. The seat will slip right into the shaft no problem. A small amount of pure silicone grease on the shaft of the tool makes this real easy.

Additionally these tools have a pliers that will help you lift the seal onto the shaft too if that’s easier. They’re made for springs so make sure there’s nothing sharp on them that needs to be ground off before starting.

here’s a link to one like I’m talking about.

I have all of those! Wait, I'm pretty sure security torx plus doesn't exist...

e: oh fuck me now what am i going to do; i had the ernst organizers planned out so nicely... I guess I'll have to move the triple square spline drive to something else...

The screwdriver in the picture does not follow the standard, it's special

If you want a large selection of bits, you need to go with with the standard. The current standard is 1/4 inch hex

Here are some examples

http://www.amazon.com/Felo-0715732348-4-Inch-Holder-Screwdriver/dp/B000E62NHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451609355&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+hex+screwdriver

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-100-Piece-Security-Bits-Storage/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451609394&sr=8-6&keywords=screwdriver+bit+set

Yes it will run with your 2s LiPo, but it will be slower. As for tools, something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Startup-Tool-Set-Traxxas/dp/B002JSV4M4#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1468421609194) is a good place to start. It should have everything you need to work on your slash. The wheels come off with a hex driver that will be included in the above kit.

You shouldn't need to do anything with the gearing unless your motor is running hot or you strip any gears.

Velineon VXL 3s is just the name of the traxxas brushless system. And there isn't much point to open the Deciever box if there's no issues.

Shock preload spacers are completely personal preference, I tend to use less preload on dirt and more on pavement, but it's completely up to you.

If you have any more questions feel free to PM me or ask below!

Let me know if you find a food-safe one. I've considered doing the same thing with a precision oiler. In the meantime, a big syringe with a blunt needle (get them as medicine applicators from farm stores like Co-op) works well for me--they're cheap and I already have a few on-hand for filling fountain pens.

Adding to this, here is a $12 bit set that has the bit you will need. In my opinion it is smarter to just but the right bit rather than go through the hassle of drilling it out


Neiko 100-Piece Security Bits Set with Hard Storage Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pFs9wbECN5NHH

You can get a set to get them open on Amazon. I recommend this set. I keep it with me in my backpack, and it's come in...handy.

You're going to need some sort of an Adjustable Pin Spanner Wrench. Not necessarily the one linked, but something similar. You can also easily DIY build your own with a couple nails and a board if you're slightly handy. If you're just trying to get it off, Vise-Grips.

BLACK+DECKER BDCS20C 4-Volt MAX Lithium-Ion Cordless Rechargeable Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TM2T9C2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Neiko 10048A Security Bit Set, Chrome Vanadium Steel | 100-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JSV4M4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
i am getting good service out of this kit

Like this?

Look for a security screwdriver set, similar to this one.

you know, they have these on machine control cabinets in factories. when we need to get in (and don't have our security bit set) we just take a flathead screwdriver and wedge it in. that pin in the middle breaks right off. then a normal allen, hex, or torx wrench works. most of the time factory maintenance has already done this to all their cabinets...

i GUESS if you bought better quality screws it might bend instead of break, but i've never seen it fail.

I just have this on the monthly order thingy. They aren't good quality, but they mostly disappear before they break. So it's all good.

False... Proper brake spring pliers. You'll thank ME later.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4590-Brake-Spring-Plier/dp/B00063V40G/

Something like this. Its called a pin spanner.

Spanner

I have this bit set you can do almost anything with it
Neiko 10029A Security Bit Set, Cr-V 100-Piece Set https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2r-kDbV56T3J4

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10048A-Security-Vanadium-100-Piece/dp/B000O5XDOG


Here is the set I have. Not sure how they last cause I haven't used them all too much but it's cheap so I'm sure it's worth it for light usage

I use this one at work and it's got a great selection, the case sucks though - if you accidentally open it upside once you'll never do it wrong again!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w6MOBbA912VCP

I have this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-91310.html
Amazon has it too: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-100-Piece-Security-Bits-Storage/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1312915054&sr=8-5

Because security bit sets are really hard to find too. It really turns into a sort of game of cat and mouse on this sort of thing. Simply locking them in a cabinets or putting them in a locked container that's bolted to the table is probably the better way to go if you're worried about them walking off.

You need to get a depinning kit to remove the connector. You may be able to get the connector from a junk yard or through some on line hunting.
Here's an example of the kit
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BFQ3UY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1369364655&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

I use this rc car tool kit for all my pc building stuff. Long and has a 4mm hex https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JSV4M4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497211051&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rc+car+tool+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41ObZ39JbhL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00063V40G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486941746&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=drum+brake+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31mdsI2Cj1L&ref=plSrch

[Titan precision oiler] (http://www.amazon.com/Titan-15200-Precision-Oiler/dp/B002LYQALQ). A impact near the front of my driver's side door means the hinge gets squeaky after a while. So, I need to give it a shot. I put the oiler in one of the pen pockets in my bag to take to the car with the intention of leaving it there. But, I've ended up needing it often enough elsewhere that I just keep it in the bag.

I also have a measuring tape in the bag. So, that's slightly less unusual. Sometimes, I'm thrifting or at the fabric store with my kid. Or, I have a small 8' Stanley [tape measure] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Stanley-Tape-Measure-8-Leverlock-30-534-Made-in-U-S-A-NEW-SEALED-/151509455775?pt=US_Measuring_Layout_Tools&hash=item2346aad39f) on my belt if I'm doing that kind of work.

Here is the mobile version of your link

No joke, OP

Car Guy Tools 10mm Socket Six Pack (3/8" Drive, Multi Type: 6pt, 12pt, Deep, Shallow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078719VN1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pvipDbRXJ01N4

It's off to the tool store you go

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5905-Piece-Tamper-Resistant-Socket/dp/B004CGKQNO

I'm on mobile so this probably won't be a link

Kinda like....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078719VN1/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_eOCrDbCHG23YR

They're called spanner bits. I have a kit (amazon link) which has the bits you need in the upper left side of the bottom clamshell.

You wanna get this

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-100-Piece-Security-Bits-Storage/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1311238416&sr=1-2

That will do nearly everything, also get a bit extender if you need them a bit longer.

*edit, just noticed the bottom post had a similar set.

Car Guy Tools 10mm Socket Six Pack (3/8" Drive, Multi Type: 6pt, 12pt, Deep, Shallow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078719VN1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_korRCbZZQBBFH

Is this cheating, or just paying it forward?

https://www.amazon.com/10mm-Socket-Pack-Multi-Type/dp/B078719VN1/

You need a wheel lock extractor. They'll sell them at any autoparts store, the function is obvious.

This is a startup tool? For spinning the engine/prop/wheels?

You can get them by the half-dozen on Amazon.

There may be a lock tab that needs to be pulled out of the side of the connector, then you would use a terminal tool (like this one) to push the terminal out.

here is the crimper for the terminals on the wire leads.

You can find videos on how to properly crimp. It’s hard to tell what the other supplied terminals are and if they are open barrel or not.

Unfortunately, when you order them, you get a message: "The system says they're in stock, but we can't seem to find any, so they're on backorder."

• https://www.amazon.com/Car-Guy-Tools-Socket-Drive/dp/B078719VN1
  
• https://www.amazon.com/10mm-Socket-Pack-Drive-Shallow/dp/B077FFK3XB
  
• https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80319-Drive-Point-Socket/dp/B00LH7DM14

https://www.amazon.com/Car-Guy-Tools-Socket-Drive/dp/B078719VN1

From what I recall - AutoZone also sells a similar kit in their brand. Neither will likely stand up to pro "abuse" - but might be worth having as a last-minute just-in-case get-r-dun emergency pack...