Reddit mentions: The best dog repellent sprays

>Once we got him home, he's become kind of lazy? He doesn't really play much or interact with us. We bought him some toys that he'll chew on for a moment and then ignores them. He seems to prefer laying in our bedroom alone than being in the living room with us.

Who knows what his situation was before you got him, but think of it this way. The puppy was born some place, was probably moved to another place after being born (a shelter) for who knows how long, uprooted again after being adopted, and given to a couple of strangers who have now taken them to yet another strange place. In it's short life it may have very little consistency it's had to rely on - so at this point - it's just bascially "unsure" of it's surroundings and where it's at. The perceived "lazyness" is more like your puppy being extremely "cautious". I wouldn't rule out a vet visit (seems you already are going to see one) based on some infections and conditions that spread in shelters (like, kennel cough for instance).

The good thing is, training starts NOW. The key is to take things slow the first few days and part of your training regiment at this point should be to slowly introducing your dog to your home. Getting it acquainted with the weird furniture, items, and rooms. Here is a good link about things you should have already done before getting the puppy home. You can review the list and hammer out any holes. Here is an article that talks about how to handle the first night home with your pup.

A few things to keep in mind, in relation to the "training" that should begin immediately with your pup:

• Don't let the dog have a run of the house, yet. Keep him in one room at a time and shut all the other rooms of the house. Let him poke around and sniff the rooms at first, but during the day and when you are gone do not let the dog have "the run" of the house.
  
  
• Do you have a name for him? If so - start working immediately on his name recognition. Call him by name constantly. When he looks at you, gives you his attention, or responds in some form to his name, praise and treats! Positive reinforcement will be everything in ensuring you reward the good behaviors you want to reproduce. Simply ignore the bad behaviors by giving no attention, petting, talking, or coddling immediately after. On contrary, when he does good things, treat and praise immediately after.
  
  
• Invest time and research into how to properly "clicker train". This will help immensely and is an extremely effective and succesful way to associate "good job" for your pet.
  
  
• Crate Training. VERY IMPORTANT FROM THE GET GO. Read up here on how to get this accomplished. Patience and consistency and building up to longer periods in the crate are critical for success. It will takes weeks, days, and even months before you dog will be completely comfortable for long periods but again, it's a process not an "event". Don't go too fast and remember to give your dog small chunks of time to be successful. If you ask too much too soon, you won't get the results you expect. Make crating a "fun" activity and a "good" thing by offering all sorts of good things any time he goes inside. Some people have even started off feeding pups in their crate at first so they understand "good = being in crate".
  
  
• Be sure to stock pile treats. Treats are going to be your way of rewarding the dog. In a sense, it's more deep than "reward" as it's truly the first form of communication you can give to your dog in order to tell him: "Good job." Be sure to read these tips on training a puppy and the best way to provide positive reinforcement.
  
  
• Peeing and Pooping. Your puppy is going to have to go a lot and may go inside your home/room/dwelling. It's going to be a fact of nature you'll have to accept right away, and don't get discouraged or scold your pet for eliminating. At this phase, you don't want to instill fear into your dog by yelling at him for peeing/pooping. He won't understand at this age that peeing/pooping inside is a "no-no". Invest in pee pads and housebreaking scent spray..
  
  
• Make sure after getting your pup used to things at your home you look into obedience and training classes. They are INVALUABLE and are extremely beneficial for not only your dog, but for yourself. A lot about owning a dog is reflecting on your leadership qualities and attentiveness to your dogs behaviors and needs. Training/Obedience classes gives you direct access to an expert who can spell these things out for you and your dog.
  
  >Also, eating. We were given a bag of ScienceDiet for puppies that ran out sooner than we expected. The Petco was closed that night, so we googled options and came out with a chicken-rice blend that he wolfed down. Now he's not eating the ScienceDiet we managed to procure the next day. Did we ruin his training by switching meals? Or is it possible that he's just not hungry? He hasn't eaten once today.
  
  Again, a lack of appetite could be a result of the added stress from being relocated to it's new home. Just make sure you have plenty of water for him to drink and always give him food at scheduled times at first, even if he eats it or not. A couple schools of thought about feeding, but I prefer to feed my dog at scheduled times, 3 times a day (GSD/Rottweilier, prone to bloat so I spread out meals). In this fashion, you can control the, as a puppy, many potty breaks your dog will need at first. Bladder control is going to be something you have to build your dog up to - it won't be able to hold it at first and prepare for accidents. Controlling the feeding will allow you to eventually notice how long and when your dog needs to poop. It will also allow you to put it on a schedule so that it doesn't need to poop in the middle of the day or times when you may be gone.
  
  People have recommended the "FoodAdvisor" website which I strongly suggest. Read up on different grain-free foods that are in your budget. There are lots of great foods for your dog in lots of different price ranges, you just have to do some digging for them. Using FoodAdvisors "Most Recommended" list would be a good start. I feed my GSD/Rottie Blue Buffalo Wilderness - Chicken & Rice recipe. It's about $50 for a 24LB bag and that lasts just about a month or a bit under.

Your description sounds just like our rescue puppy! :)

I don't know where you're located, but here (LA), there a ton of small/medium poodle/terrier mixes that sound perfect for you. I would definitely recommend reaching out to rescues since you don't seem super attached to a certain breed. Based on your responses it seems like your choice could be more based on personality and size.

Our dog is about 16lb at 7/8 months, and we were both "big dog" people before, but I'm a HUGE fan of her size - she's capable and confident, but we can still carry her around when we need to. She can hold her own around dogs of all sizes and plays hard. She loves doing agility and (age appropriate) hikes and walks. Overall we've found that she (and friends dogs that seem like similar mixes) does well with about the amount of exercise you've noted (some dog park time and a walk on weekdays, longer/more active stuff on weekends).

As for the barking issue - it sucks, but you can't exactly guarantee that when you're adopting (or even from a breeder...) - I kind of think it's a personality thing. Our dog was basically mute for the first week or so when we brought her home, and then got confident/comfortable and got really vocal (super cute) and started barking (super annoying). It's hard. BUT there are a ton of resources out there for fixing it. We've (surprisingly!) recently had some good success with this stuff. I think it's possible to train for this!

Where did you get your mouse from? If you got her from a pet store, chances are you'll have a harder time taming her than if you got her from a breeder. I also agree with /u/mewingoreos, she'll feel safer and more confident with a buddy or two.

When you are offering her food from your hand, how are you holding the food? Hands with grasping fingers can be threatening to mice, as they know you can grab them suddenly. Put your hand flat in the tank, palm up, with your fingers tightly together like this. Then hold your hand perfectly still for five or ten minutes and let her approach you. You can also try rubbing your hand in her bedding first to make your hand smell more like her.

Definitely find a treat she can't resist, preferably something she cannot just grab a large piece of and run away to eat. I've had good success with dipped millet from the bird section of pet shops, you can get fruit-dipped or honey-dipped (or even candy coated!). Millet is made up of tiny little seeds, so she has to keep coming back to you to get more delicious tiny seeds. Parakeet seed also works well, as does a large piece of fruit that's too big to drag away (such as an apple wedge or baby carrot) so she has to keep coming back to take nibbles.

Whenever you handle her, try to keep your fingers together as much as you can to avoid looking like a grabby hand. Use a fist and extend one finger to gently touch her side or back if she'll let you. Let her sniff your fist or climb on it if she's feeling brave. Etc etc. Try not to pick her up if she doesn't want to be as much as possible. With really stubborn mice, sometimes I've even sat with a hand in their cage while watching TV. They always come around eventually.

KONG works wonders for me. Half-freeze it and boom! Endless puppy satisfaction. It's really strong and you can put treats in it entice your pup. As fuckmylife112 says, rotate your toys so that your pup won't get bored. I also use those rope toys (tug-of-war toys) because they're also pretty strong. Do note that you need to reward good behavior and use a stern but warm voice when correcting your pup like yelping when he bites you.

If toys don't work, you can use an anti-biting spray. Spray it on the things you don't want get chewed on and once your pup tastes the bad flavor, they are less likely to bite again.

KONG:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR182/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=dogmomdaily-20&linkId=a5015a0e131bf582d18ad2d7e1f3f95e&linkCode=w61&imprToken=HNayx181fUWwMY3FikiDyg&slotNum=0

ANTI-TEETHING SPRAY (FOOEY-what i use)https://www.amazon.com/SynergyLabs-Fooey-Ultra-Bitter-Spray/dp/B0002DIOD0/?tag=petresults-20

ANTI-TEETHING SPRAY (Bodhi dog)https://www.amazon.com/Chewing-Puppies-Training-Treatment-Professional/dp/B01I2A6MPG/?tag=petresults-20

There's this so called indestructible chew toy (with a guarantee, never used it but many people are worshiping it lol) if your pup is a death machinehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042JJB82/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0042JJB82&linkCode=as2&tag=territerri-20&linkId=R63I4QQQKB7BCLBS


EDIT: If you can't have these things delivered, you can buy those rope toys from the pet store or a supermarket in the pet sections. They're pretty good if you buy those tight and thick ones. Squeaky toys are really good too. Wipe some peanut butter on them if your pup doesn't seem interested and reward good behavior.


I also found ice cubes or iced toys really good too. The coldness soothes the gums and helps your pup.
You can get rawhide (get the big ones) but you need to supervise your pup when does chew on it because there are certain cons this https://www.dogingtonpost.com/rawhide-good-bad-ugly/


Good luck!

Omg. THAT FACE! She's gorgeous!

Other commenter covered what I came to say mostly.

My dog has minor separation and confinement anxieties as well. He does well now left loose. I chose not to crate train him even though I maybe should. He likes his crate as a den with the door open, and I'm okay to leave it at that. I don't condone not crate training, it's a really useful tool to have, but I can say do what's best for you. You may wish to re crate train as though she were a pup starting from scratch and only when you are home at first.

Anyways, some other things that have helped me include D.A.P. spray which works well on my boy. I spritz some in the living room and around his crate before I leave. I film him with my laptop webcam, and he's calmer and calmer sooner with it than without. I also leave my computer playing some soft classical to help drown out or distract from outside noises or loud footsteps our landlord makes (we share a wall).

Desensitizing her to your departure cues is a great idea! And you should definitely keep up the habit of acting like you're getting ready, grabbing keys, etc and then settling in for some tv.

Awe I’m sorry about your first bun.
You’re in for a wild ride with a baby! Definitely, absolutely, no matter what, get your bun fixed.
They will get seriously bad attitudes if you don’t, imagine puberty times a million! Plus a lot of other issues that can come with not getting them fixed both medical and personality wise.

If you haven’t already rabbit proof your place, I use these cord covers but any will work. I swear rabbits like the little zap of electrocution or something but they can seriously burn their mouths chewing wires.

Also this no chew spray has been an absolute god send. My rabbits have chewed up literally everything wood I own, baseboards, bed frame, table legs. Then I found this stuff. They won’t even go near anything that’s been sprayed with it.

You should do monthly checks on your bun as well. Check teeth (make sure they’re being ground down and not growing in funny, lava rock products help them file their teeth, as they never stop growing) check inside ears, eyes, nail trim, that sort of stuff. (You may already know all of this)

Baby buns also require different food and hay than adult buns do.

I swear by Oxbow products, you’ll want their Essentials Young Rabbit Food , it’s a lot higher in nutrients than adult rabbit food, as they’re growing and such they need a bit more. And you’ll want alfalfa hay for a baby bun but switch to Timothy hay once she reaches “adulthood”, along with adult rabbit food.

Sorry that was a lot of info I love buns, mine are my whole life. Feel free to ask me anything if you have questions!

My buns, Cuppy and Cash

I carry this. I have never had an occasion to use it, which is good of course, but that means I cannot tell you how effective it is. I suppose it will vary from animal to animal anyway. Other similar products come up on Amazon on course. Bear spray comes to mind but that may get your pup in the spray. If they are feral cats then I doubt water would do any good.

What city do you live in? Here in Atlanta we have organizations like KirkCats dedicated to trap-and-spay of cats. I know you said traps aren't a viable option but maybe they will have other ideas. At least they might be more helpful than the city government.

My Akita mix mutt LOVES to stand up and greet us when we come home or have food. He luckily doesn't put much weight into it- mostly just stands in front of us on his back legs like a little meerkat. Adorable, but we figured we would train him for the sake of manners

We had a trainer tell us to turn our body away while saying "off." Don't put your knee up or touch the dog in any way, just turn away and say off. The other commenters are right about ignoring the dog until she sits.

If all else fails, I use Pet Corrector (basically a can of compressed air that lets out a hissing sound as a warning). I don't like to use this much because I'd rather use positive reinforcement, but it's really effective for getting a dog to stop whatever they're doing- often I just show him the little can and he knows to behave.

Good luck! She has such a sweet face

Hey, I will help you if I can. In the meantime, please post in /r/RandomActsOfPetFood. They are amazing there and will probably help you. Feel free to include pictures of your pets and your wish lists. Seriously. Also, if you have carpeting or cat trees, this spray works amazing. Consider adding it to your wishlist as well. It's well worth it. Just treating the pets is not enough. You need to eliminate any eggs, larvae and fleas that are living in the carpet, bedding, etc.

Perfect timing! I just dug up this article by Suzanne Clothier yesterday. He just wants to say Hi She says "My experience has been that it is owners of breeds considered non-aggressive that cause the most problems in dog-to-dog interactions simply by being unaware that their dog is rude". It's kind of long but well worth the read, especially for people who have dogs of the Belgian or German variety who are always assumed to be the aggressive instigating dog in any kind of confrontation. I'm curious to hear if after reading that article you still think your dog is unfriendly with other dogs or if you think he's just expressing his disapproval at their rudeness.

To answer your question my dog does get along with other dogs really pretty well and I recruit her to help me socialize puppies I'm working with all the time because I trust her judgement. That said, I never let strange dogs just come barreling up to her to "say Hi". And if I see some obliviot coming up the trail with their off leash dog (sigh) I step in between them (this helps if you have a friend or someone to hand your leash off to), or have a can of spray air, and I've even pepper sprayed a couple of dogs before who approached us with pretty aggressive body language and no handler. If the person with the off leash dog is especially dense, lying and saying that my dog is contagious has always worked. Because really, they are not going to like what she gives their dog if it continues getting in her face.

My dog is just like yours. It's so frustrating to have some shitty owner put her in that situation. I've started bringing this with me on our walks and I can't recommend it enough. Stops dogs in their tracks. It's just compressed air, but the "chtttttt" noise it makes is incredibly effective.

Anyway, good luck with your pup.


Just realized it's been recommended below. Glad others use it too.

First you want to get them on your finger/hand. I've found that millet sprigs work amazing for helping train them. It's like birby crack. Put a chunk in your hand and try to get them interested enough to step on. (This took WEEKS) Once they are used to getting on your hand, you can start trying to move them about. We've had ours for around 4-5 months now and they come out of the cage on a finger, ride to the top of the cage (where they are in the picture) and hang out up there with occasional forays flying around the greatroom. I figure in another year or so I might actually get them to hang out with me.

" Vet Simotrol Plus has great reviews (something like that). "

Close, it used to be Siphotrol but they changed it to Vet Kem. My vet recommended it and its the only thing I've found that actually works. They have it in an aerosol can but the pump bottle seems to work better and lasts longer. I didn't know they had a topical but I'll use that next year. I don't know if I'd spray that directly on a cat though. The Home/premise spray works great!

https://www.amazon.com/Vet-Kem-Home-Spray-Ounce/dp/B000CQJ5JO/ref=pd_sim_199_3/143-5399843-1492345?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CQJ5JO&pd_rd_r=c0d8194b-aa93-46ec-9945-70014db8f11f&pd_rd_w=Y28xV&pd_rd_wg=5dydV&pf_rd_p=5c130f77-a5ef-4ffd-9db1-c29a354f52f9&pf_rd_r=32NSARE09MF0EDBTCNNJ&psc=1&refRID=32NSARE09MF0EDBTCNNJ

https://www.amazon.com/Vet-Kem-Ovitrol-Plus-Spray-16-Ounce/dp/B000EMWMJG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I went through the same thing with mine at about 9 months where he would get super aggressive of a dog that was within a few feet of my personal bubble. I worked on it with giving him a lot of treats when other dogs came over to say hi, and kept a "pet corrector" around for times at the dog park. He completely cut out that behavior until just recently (4 months later now) where he did it with a friend's dog while on a camping trip. I thought it was due to his exhaustion, but it could be a combination of adolescence, mood swings, hunger, tiredness... All I can say is try to meet with your friend again and show her that everyone's a friend, give treats when she does well, and I definitely recommend the Pet Corrector

In general, try one cup of kibble for every twenty pounds of dog.

The mounting could be a lot of things. For dogs who know each other already, it's often a form of play. In this case, it could be that the shepherd is nervous and that's how he relieves stress (think of chewing your nails, it's the same idea). Dogs hump of a LOT of different reasons. On rare occasions it is a dominance thing, but as long as the lab doesn't mind, I wouldn't worry too much. Is the shepherd fixed?

Definitely keep them separated if they have to be alone. If they get into a scuffle, don't reach in to try to break it up. You're very likely to get bit that way. Try filling a spray bottle with water and squirting them if they start to scuffle. It's often enough to break up a fight. You might also want to get a few of these. Even if you don't keep the shepherd, this is always a good thing to carry around. Dogs hate the smell, and combined with the surprise of it, it usually makes them back right down. And it doesn't hurt them, like mace does.

I would suggest that you bring the dog to your vet ASAP, just to get them checked out and scanned for a microchip. Animal shelters can usually scan for a chip, too, but I don't know if they would insist on taking the dog.

Anyway, good luck! I love shepherds.

i’ve totally been there. i cried everyday when our house had them because i couldn’t stand feeling so filthy and thinking they were EVERYWHERE.

Vet Kem Siphotrol Plus II Premise Pest Control Spray, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSTC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ypQIDbV80R6FT

we bug bombed with ours, which was the only thing that gave me peace of mind. you and kitty have to go somewhere else for a few hours, and all the other instructions, ofc. our foggers weren’t 100% effective. but i’ve heard good stuff about the spray i just linked lol. better reviews than any others i’ve seen.

i doubt your house is anywhere near an actual infestation but i think you’d also enjoy being able to sleep at night.

I would allow the dog to visit the home several times before it is permanent. Sometimes the change in environment is enough to make the dog display behaviors that they never showed before. It does happen. Of course, some people describe behaviors as aggressive when the dog is only playing, which is a distinct possibility since this dog is super playful. If you can, ask for a video of the behavior and, if you aren't sure, ask a trainer for advice after you have seen it for yourself. It may be that he's just being a puppy! Calming pheromone products can help ease the transition sometimes. Here's the one I prefer: http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Zone-Dogs-Spray-Milliliters/dp/B001OVEZH8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1422304629&sr=8-9&keywords=comfort+zone+dap

Another method to handle such issues is by carying Spray Shield. It is a citronella based spray that shocks dogs systems long enough for you to gain control of the situation. I carry this as well as another least with me (for strays) on my walks. Luckily I have yet yo be required to use it, but I hear a lot of good things from the rescues I deal with (we foster) and my wife hears good things from her customers (she works at a pet goods store).

Unicorn Power Scour. Expensive, but works like nothing else. You'll need a very clean bucket or large pot filled with lukewarm water + about 3 drops of Power Scour. Gently press the garment into the water and slowly and gently swish. Let soak 10 min and then dump the water. I dumped mine in the yard. Lanolin (the wax secreted from a sheep's sebaceous glands that makes wool smell) clogs pipes, so don't pour it down the drain. Fill the pot with clean water and press garment in, swishing again. Dump water. Repeat until the water comes out clear.

Sunscreen for my cat so her nose doesn't burn and this to get my head straight.

Thank you for the contest and I hope you have a wonderful night!

To infinity and beyond!

Pepper spray for the win. Bless his sorry ass with the seasoning. Next time you see him behind you, turn around and whip that shit out and ask him in a very assertive voice, "Do you know what pepper spray feels like? I've heard it's like your eyes are on fire".

https://www.amazon.com/Halt-Repellent-Repeller-Protector-Agressive/dp/B00NDMBDB2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=halt+pepper+spray&qid=1565643575&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQU4xSUVXS0lZVTFVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzY2ODM0RDdNRENOODRQWTdKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNzEzNDgxWjFUTTZXTkZLU0JFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Or you leave the gym, he leaves 50 feet behind, then your boy friend and his 3 large friends leave 100 feet after. They 'catch up' and he trips and falls off the curb. 23 times.

If they are chewing things like corners of wood tables like ours did, there is this spray that we purchased on amazon that you could spray whenever the dog would chew and it takes away their desire to chew that area. I’ll look for it right now and put in the link.

Edit: Searching “dog chewing deterrent spray” on Amazon gives you multiple good choices, but I’d recommend this one due to the wide range of usage.

I can't tell people enough when you ride out in the country you will find rapid dogs and owners who don't care and let their dogs run wild. I do a decent amount of gravel riding and before I even went into that part of bicycle riding I had heard and seen enough dog bites to know better so I went and bought Halt dog repellent. I haven't had to use it yet but I know people who have and it has worked well. I recommend it to anybody who is out riding, put it on a small frame bag up by your handle bars and have it ready to pull out.
https://www.amazon.com/Halt-Repellent-Repeller-Protector-Agressive/dp/B00NDMBDB2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002XKIV6

I recommend using this stuff rather than pepper spray. It's very effective yet painless to the dog, and painless if it blows back in your face. I swear by it.

When I used to show my Keeshonden, I used Chris Christensen White on White (it's useful for all colors, in spite of the name). Although you didn't ask, I also find a good finishing spray is awesome. Again, from my show days, I liked Crown Royale and that concentrate bottle will last years.

Oh, yes. Been there, tried everything, finally licked it. Here's how:

Unless the spray you used was this one, you need to try again. That's the nuclear bomb of flea treatments, and it totally works to rid the whole house of fleas and keep it clear for weeks. Just be sure to follow the directions to the letter, keeping yourself and the cats out of the house for part of a day after spraying.

At the same time -- if your vet okays it -- you can give the cats Capstar, which kills all the fleas on the cats at that moment.

Good luck!

Thanks. I lived in Dallas for 18 years and Denton for 4. What struck me there was how many people had dogs they just left in their backyards. No walks, no love, no respite from the heat. Why own dogs in the first place?? Grr.

I hope your dad stays safe. Someone else commented that spray shield works well.

a Kong or an activity ball filled with treats to keep him busy so he doesn't notice you leave, just try giving it to him and then just go outside and wait, see if he starts howling, otherwise you can try pheromone sprays, it's these sprays that have the same pheromones that their mothers have and it makes puppies feel safer and more comfortable.
http://www.amazon.com/D-A-P-Appeasing-Pheromone-Spray-60ml/dp/B00076NS1U

Bitter yuck is what I use, but there is also Bitter apple spray as another option. :)

Be careful with applying it, it’s bitter to us as well. Lol.

get something called the pet corrector.
Its like an airhorn without the horn. It makes a hissing sound. You can use this thing from next door. Or two doors over. Im pretty sure you can get this from petsmart as well. It works WONDERS for a barking dog. One quick press of the button, and the dog will stop barking.

Same problem! One of mine loves Apple wires. Magsafe, Lightning -- everything!

Here's what I did. For Magsafe I bought this and cut it lengthways with sharp scissors. I then slipped the cable in it and wrapped the whole thing with this, circling the whole thing with electrical tape every six inches or so.

A few notes. The clear tubing I only paid $20 for so I'm not sure why it's so much now. You could probably get by with the second tubing alone if need be (and your cat isn't super clever).

If your cat isn't as bad as mine, they do sell bitter apple sprays you can rub on the wires that will make the wires taste objectionable to the cat.

Good luck!

Somebody needs a can of Pet Corrector when this guy acts up. It's simply a can of compressed air that makes a very loud "TSCH"! sound when you press the button.

Every time he starts... "TSCH!" until he stops. If the guy wants to act like an animal, treat him like one.

> He is roughly a year and 3 months old

congratulations you have a teenager. on avg i consider years 1-3 as their teenage years.

if he's not fixed get him fixed this week it will help alot

my boy aged 3y4m has mellowed out alot since turning 3, his nickname was Asshole, meanwhile my kitten just entered his teen years 1y4m he's great except he's addicted to his cat wand as soon as he wakes up he goes over to it and starts crying (I'm not exaggerating).

best advice I can offer is to tire him out before bedtime by playing with him and/or get him a playmate around the same age (best idea)

Also check out Jackson Galaxy's videos heres a nice playlist

as for the wires, my girl (~8y) used to destroy wires so I put nylon sheathing on any wire she could get to tho she has stopped in the last couple of years. alot of people recommend spraying the cables with a citrus spray

I use Pet Corrector spray when Kingsley does that. Use the spray, give the command "quiet," and then praise her if she remains quiet.

After doing this for a while, you'll hopefully just be able to give the command.

We developed a terrible infestation at one point.. we had a stray cat that stayed in a carpeted office to keep it away from our cats until we could get it to a shelter. That office was rarely used, so I didn't realize there was a problem until I walked in one day and my legs were just black with fleas.. it was horrifying. I think I read that the eggs will lay dormant in a carpet if there is no food source around, and something as simple as walking through the room can activate them... yuck!

Anyway, I tried DE and traps and eucalyptus and a variety of other things, because I didn't want to poison the house.. unfortunately, nothing really worked. I spent a lot of time researching online and combing through product reviews and then I found this: https://smile.amazon.com/Siphotrol-Premise-Control-Spray-16-Ounce/dp/B000KVSTC0

This stuff worked like a charm.. we sprayed it throughout the carpets in the basement, in combination with Ovitrol shampoo on the pets, and that was it.. no more fleas. It is pricey, but it is entirely worth it. Hope that helps!

ETA: Buy more than you think you will need.. it didn't cover nearly the square footage it said it would! I think we went through almost two full cans for our 1450sqft basement

I've heard Citronella spray is very effective for this purpose. With pepper spray, if you misread the wind/breeze at all, you can fairly easily end up spraying yourself and/or your dog. I'd look into that over the pepper spray personally.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Sprayshield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray/dp/B0009YSB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473864179&sr=8-1&keywords=citronella+spray+dogs

To begin with, I would start the relaxation protocol. This protocol will help the pup relax in both good and bad situations. I would also look into picking up the book Controlled Unleashed and practicing LAt (look At That). You should also practice emergency u-turns. You should find a local R+ trainer to help you with the basics.

You need to do everything you can to avoid nasty interactions, every bad interaction will compound on previous interactions. It is our job to protect our dogs. These bad experiences breaks a trust "my human is not going to protect me, so I need to take matters into my own hands". Leash reactivity generally grows from targeting 1 dog, then a type or breed of dogs, eventually evolving to EVERY visible dog within 1/4+ mile.

One option if the other dog is out of control, carry an umbrella to scare off the other dog, just make sure that your dog is OK with the umbrella flapping, you can accomplish this through desensitization and counter conditioning. There is also a product called Spray Shield which is a citronella based product to ward off any unleashed dogs. Most communities have leash laws, I would consider telling the owner of the other dog that I will be calling the police on them if they continue to let their dog off leash. There is a reason communities have leash laws and examples like this are a perfect example of why.

I'm at year 4 with these fleas, and on AdvantageII box number 6. I started using that after a different brand stopped working and before that I've tried a rainbow of different methods directly on them including flea baths none of which worked. I've only been successful at keeping them at bay. After I treat, I vacuum and spray this stuff

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KVSTC0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Its the only thing I've found that actually kills them. I've tried many many other methods. I follow up and spray the next week as well.

They usually get subdued for about 2 months then I repeat.


I haven't tried collars yet so I thought I'd give it a go.

The fleas are fully grown and many that are surviving the treatment which doesn't usually happen.

My cats are inside only.

Bitter Yuck spray. You won't like it either, but it should help.

https://www.amazon.com/NaturVet-Bitter-Yuck-Spray-Liquid/dp/B000EI1BRO

Anything like this should help.

Revolution for the dogs, then you need to treat the carpets furniture and wash all soft materials that might harbor eggs. You have to be thorough. A good carpet treatment for fleas is this.

Yes, you want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Chewing-Puppies-Training-Treatment-Professional/dp/B01I2A6MPG/ref=pd_sim_199_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01I2A6MPG&pd_rd_r=5d8d42fc-b6d8-11e8-b96a-75051c3f57a5&pd_rd_w=KdW0d&pd_rd_wg=2SMPR&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&pf_rd_r=5YK7FDQP82RX3GWYR48T&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=5YK7FDQP82RX3GWYR48T.

We had a neighbor who insisted that their dog jumped on the fence and barked because he was so friendly and just wanted to play. That dog bit both of my dogs and broke the fence of their other neighbor. (Going to small claims since she still insists her dog did nothing wrong and refuses to help pay vet bills).

Would highly recommend recording your backyard (maybe front too) with a cheap webcam in case something does happen. The [wyze cam] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CH7xCbG9TJG54) is only $25. Also invest in pet corrector to deter the lab when he jumps up.

Wow, so much bad advice here.

Just get this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/SprayShield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray-Belt/dp/B0002XKIV6 My wife used to work at an animal shelter and they used this stuff all the time. Safest way to break up a fight.

Revolution is the best flea product I have ever used on my cat. There isn't a whole lot of medicine in the tube and it dries fairly quickly. Good luck! I know how frustrating that can be.

http://www.amazon.com/Siphotrol-Premise-Control-Spray-16-Ounce/dp/B000KVSTC0
I had a really bad flea infestation about three years ago. I got some Revolution and sprayed anything fabric and my carpets with the Siphotrol and I haven't had an issue since. I have five cats and live in a very humid area for reference.

There are ways to make a dog let go. Choke it. Also there is such a thing as dog mace. It is usually citronella based and very effective against most dogs (aim for the nose). I've had a lot of experience using it to break up dog fights. Much better than trying to pull them apart.

Our vet recommended ovitrol and siphotrol as a quick way to clear them out because one of my cats was allergic. Worked really well.

Pet Corrector – The Company of Animals – Bad Behavior and Training Aid - Quickly Stops Barking, Jumping, Digging, Chewing – Harmless and Safe- 50ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UCH02O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XUhACbCVA84DT is the one I've had success with.

You are actually right. There are only a few brands available on Canada Amazon, with not so good reviews. Here is one to give a shot (they make popular pee pads, so I think these might work):

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001OVBAQW

Here’s what I use, good luck!

I've had very good results with this product.

It's similar to an airhorn but not as loud. You could carry this around with you. When you press down on the nozzle it let's out a "SCH" sound. It's basically a can of compressed air, so if that is cheaper, pick that up.

We were using it on our dog for training her to break her focus on rabbits when we were walking her. Gives her a good startle without any harm.

One of the reasons to not get small dogs. They yap-yap-yap like crazy.

Have you tried things like the pet corrector: http://www.amazon.com/Company-Animals-Pet-Corrector-50ml/dp/B0124G4DV4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458144648&sr=8-2&keywords=pet+corrector

or a spray bottle?

Yes. Always. https://www.amazon.com/SprayShield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray-Belt/dp/B0002XKIV6

Also, when our cat had a ton of fleas, they told us to treat the house too. So we sprayed the entire house floor with Siphotrol (Vet Kem Siphotrol Plus II Premise Pest Control Spray, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSTC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ruUQBbJVGYE0V) and between that, vacuuming a lot and the revolution they went away.

If you are in the US it is this version that is available. And it seems it can be bought without a vet on amazon in the US. It's slightly different formulation but should work just as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Siphotrol-Premise-Control-Spray-16-Ounce/dp/B000KVSTC0?th=1&psc=1

I'm sorry, I don't have much good advice, just the fact that I commiserate with you.

Ours is two years old, and we've trained almost all other problems out of him except this one. If ANYONE shows our aussie any attention, he jumps up on them -- and he's 85 pounds. It's so frustrating.

Trainers always tell you to try and catch the jumping just before it happens. Ours gave us a pet corrector:

https://smile.amazon.com/Pet-Corrector-Behavior-Training-Harmless/dp/B000UCH02O/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1523971685&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=pet+corrector&psc=1

The idea is that as your dog jumps up, you spray this thing (away from the dog -- it's just compressed air) and the spray makes the same warning sound as a snake. The first time, it worked like a charm ... our dog backed off immediately and layed down. Magic. Trouble is, he got used to it (even though I only used it sporadically) and it stopped working after a month.

I've also heard that you should have the dog on some kind of soft leash ALWAYS in the house, so that if he does jump, you can grab the leash and pull him back immediately.

I've also watched other people ONLY GIVE ATTENTION when four paws are on the floor, and when there are four paws on the floor, you feed treats continuously. Want to make it a very big deal that the dog is NOT jumping, so you reward like crazy.

Our dog kind of taught himself that when we come through the front door, instead of jumping on us it's ok with us if he goes immediately and gets a toy ... then he gets positive attention. This sorta works.

This is the one I bought. Be very careful to only get it where you want it if you decide to try it. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DIOD0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I forgot the link.

PetSafe SprayShield Animal Deterrent with Clip, Citronella Spray up to 10 ft, Protect Yourself and Your Pets - PTA00-14718 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIP6X06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xG5xCbF8XSXGM

Another option without the citronella..

Pet Corrector – The Company of Animals – Bad Behavior and Training Aid - Quickly Stops Barking, Jumping, Digging, Chewing – Harmless and Safe- 50ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UCH02O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3n6xCbPFE015M

Spray Shield saved my little guy just the other day from on off leash dog.

Get some. Carry it. It works. Seriously.

This has helped us a lot. We tried a number of other training methods first with no luck. Its basically a air horn dog whistle.
https://www.amazon.com/Company-Animals-Pet-Corrector-50ml-Pack/dp/B0124G4DV4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1474475210&sr=1-2&keywords=pet+corrector

They make citronella based products, generally referred to as "shield sprays." Definitely not as intense as pepper spry but allegedly gets the job done.

http://www.amazon.com/SprayShield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray-Belt/dp/B0002XKIV6

This. Calling animal control will probably get the person fined, so they will (hopefully) keep them on a leash, or get a fence.

Also This is a great spray that won't make them attack you, or hurt them, but it will make them back off. (Plus it's only $10 so great for a budget)

I haven't and I hope I don't have to. But I bought a citronella spray off Amazon when my friend her little dog got attacked by another dog recently. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-SprayShield-Deterrent-Citronella-Yourself/dp/B0009YSB9O/

Give the citronella spray a try, my dad is animal control and gave me a can to use when running (neighbors dogs try nipping at my ankles). Its harmless to the dogs but it should shut them up. This is the same type he gave me

My 8 month-old pup was barking a lot and it was becoming a big issue because I live in a condo. I ended up buying a bottle of [compressed air] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UCH02O/ref=twister_B017DHGBNW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) that is designed to mimic the sound of a warning hiss, similar to what a cat or snake would make. When the dog starts barking too much, you say "No" or "Quiet" and then aim it in the air (AWAY from the dog) and squeeze out just a bit. The dog will be startled by the noise, and will most likely immediately stop barking. I would wait to make sure my pup was completely silent, and then say "thank you" and give her a treat. I only had to do this a few times and now it's almost to the point where I can tell her "thank you" and she will be quiet.

I only chose to use this because I couldn't get the barking to stop otherwise, and this was a humane way to communicate with my pup that her behavior was unwanted.

Barking is a use for it. This is what we use.

http://www.amazon.com/Epi-Pet-Sun-Protector-Spray-Pets/dp/B002AI39QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404198653&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+sunscreen have you tried this or similar? there's quite a bit geared toward dogs.

Quit It! DRP-PTS-1000 118ml Instant Pet Training Spray, 4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9BAS6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OXshDb2ZMSH02

https://www.amazon.ca/SprayShield-ANIMAL-DETERRENT-Citronella-Spray/dp/B0002XKIV6

https://www.amazon.com/Company-Animals-Corrector-Pack-50ml/dp/B0124G4DV4/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?crid=29MQO2Q0JF0GE&keywords=pet+corrector&pd_rd_i=B0124G4DV4&pd_rd_r=54a1387f-0cad-4ce8-8129-da5e733d3c80&pd_rd_w=aQz9M&pd_rd_wg=S5SjK&pf_rd_p=a5491838-6a74-484e-8787-eb44c8f3b7ff&pf_rd_r=BWH6JCHGAZFTS485PPWS&psc=1&qid=1571960326&sprefix=Pet+%2Caps%2C184

carry and use http://www.amazon.com/Petsafe-Sprayshield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray/dp/B0009YSB9O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1427780603&sr=8-5&keywords=pet+repellent+spray

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002AI39QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495920440&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+sunblock

....also carried by petco and pet food express

I heard about this. Maybe that will work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9BAS6C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_9&smid=A27BUQSY3E84IP

You could try an air can. Some people don't like startling/scaring their dog but I have seen this work many times with crate-whiners. After a while you don't even need to have a full can; just seeing it is enough to remind them to keep quiet.

http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Corrector-Behavioral-Training-Aid/dp/B000UCH02O

I've taken to carrying citronella spray in my bait bag because I come across so many off leash tiny dogs. It doesn't physically hurt them, but they don't like it and they get out of the street and run back to their yards. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Sprayshield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray/dp/B0009YSB9O

Bitter Yuck

Spray it on your plants. Your cat will try to eat them, then won't feel like eating them again. Our dog just sort of stopped, and she was fine.

For the record, in humans, it pretty much just makes your mouth taste like gross for a few hours. Don't get it on your hands.

I carry a citronella spray. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YSB9O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_9IICwbENB9C8B

But 8 times out of ten if I firmly and loudly command the other dog to stop and "go home", they do.

You might want to start carrying Spray Shield. It won't hurt the dog but is supposed to stop them. Maybe carry real pepper spray as a back up, just in case.

Are you walking them in your apartment complex, or in a neighborhood? If it's happening in the complex you can report them to the office or whoever's in charge there.

I'm seconding the "no chew spray".

Get some gummy candies and douse them in Bitter Yuck!

My new kitten was eating my wedding succulents so I got this stuff and he's mostly stopped (I've also mostly stopped spraying it, I should give it a top up)

The trick is to give them a smell of the stuff by waving the bottle in their face and then spray the plant while they watch. Some of my succulents didn't react well to it so I swapped to spraying their pots rather than their leaves.

Get Advantage for the cats and dog. Get a flea comb and a bowl of soapy water, dip the comb in the water and comb the animals carefully to remove the fleas and eggs.

For the house, I highly recommend this stuff. It's a little pricey, but one can goes a long way (about 2,000 sq ft). Raid flea killer room spray also works very well, but the cans don't go nearly as far. The Raid you can buy in stores, though, whereas the Siphotrol you'd need to buy online or maybe from a vet's office.

Sorry that this took a bit for me to get back to you. Kitten is full of energy but looks like he has an ear infection now :(

It's going to cost $20 dollars to have the Vet see him + ??? for the antibiotics for his ear + 21 dollars for this flea spray + 65 dollars for his eventual neuter-ing. I have no idea what the cost of the shots are yet, because he won't get them till week 9 and they come in a series.

He is going to see Dr. Saunders on Thursday at 9:15 am @ For Pet's Sake in Yankton, SD and her number is 605-665-7411.

I have the same situation with my dogs and there are a lot of shitty dog owners in my neighborhood that have aggressive dogs off-leash. I have started carrying these pet correctors. It's a little aerosol can that lets out a hissing noise that dogs do not like. If a dog is running toward us, I just bust it out and they usually stop and run back to their owners.

We had the same problem to the T. Indoor cat, fleas coming through the floorboards in an old raised house next to a lady with a soft spot for strays. We spent a lot trying to rid them for a while too. I don't want to jinx myself but I think they're gone?? I took our cat to the vet (Ark Animal Hospital on Jeff Hwy and got her on Comfortis (it was like $25 when I was expecting like $100). I had her boarded there for three days and came home and bombed out house and cleaned all the things. I noticed a difference the first week, then a week or two later not so much and just decided to give up and start to look into moving but I'm thinking those were hopefully the last to hatch or something and now they all dead? She's had two months of the Comfortis so far and it's about $25 each pill. There aren't any more fleas jumping around and no more little red bites on my ankles and when we comb our cat she's flea/egg and dander free. I better not have cursed myself now that I talked about it though. Also, I too wasted money on diatomaceous earth. It may work but not if your house is surrounded by bushes and you can't fully spread that shit. I tried :/ However this shit ($$$) works--https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KVSTC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

are they fixed? if not get them fixed.

we have a lot of electronic equipment in the living room of our house. we sprayed some of this bitter spray on the cables so the cats won't chew on them. they tried once and never again, they absolutely hate the taste. you can try spraying it on items they are likely to chew. maybe keep some of the collectible stuff in storage until they realize that chewing things isn't fun anymore.

OPEN LETTER TO EVERYBODY THAT'S MAD ABOUT THE PEPPER SPRAY:
I'm going to plug a product called Sprayshield/DirectStop. It's a citronella spray that has the same effect as a 10% pepper spray with none of the lasting burning and painful effects off pepper spray. Plus it won't make you cry even if it gets in your eyes!

I work at a doggy day care and we have this stuff on us at all times in case a fight breaks out. Every time I've seen it used, all agression stops dead – while sometimes with pepper spray the dog gets even more agressive due to the pain.

I actually do not think this is the right route here. Your dog is clearly agitated by the interaction, so introducing positive punishment (air horn) is more likely to increase your dog's agitation about oncoming dogs in the future.

Here's what I might try instead:

• Teach a replacement behavior. The one that comes to mind and might work really well here is a "behind" cue. This is really easy to teach: Say the cue "behind!" and toss a small handful of cookies behind you. With practice, your dog will start associating the word with getting food behind you, making him more likely to get behind you to block oncoming dogs. You might also work on asking your dog for other behaviors (sit, lie down) while your dog is still behind you. Practice this at home and slowly increase distractions.
  
  
• Ask other owners to call/leash their dogs. This is sometimes easier said than done, but IME 85% of the time the other owner is competent enough to understand that there might be some conflict.
  
  
• If the dog approaches and you cannot get your dog behind you: What happens if you drop the leash? I know, I know, this sounds terrifying. But often with my leash-reactive guy who I almost always walk on leash, dropping the leash when a strange dog approaches and all else fails usually results in him being more able to greet the dog in a natural way and decrease any tension and frustration caused by the leash.
  
  
• Finally: I know that sometimes EVERYTHING fails and all goes to shit. I recommend carrying spray shield for those circumstances, just so you can break up a fight if needed. This would be my last resort if everything fails and the dogs are going at it, though.

>Is there something I can spray an attacking dog with, without causing a lot of pain or lasting harm?

There are citronella sprays used to deter roaming dogs (not for training, but for safety). I understand that they don't have the harmful/painful effects of pepper spray, but you still wouldn't want it to go in your dog's face by accident. Spray Shield

In the case of non-aggressive off-leash dogs, you could also consider carrying a bag of tiny high value treats with you (e.g. tiny bits of hot dog). Throw a handful at the face of an approaching dog, the pieces will scatter, and he'll sniff around to find them all. That only works if you have many treats though--toss one or two and he'll just follow you for more.

>The problem is, these unleashed dogs sometimes come out of the blue - around a corner - with no warning.

You can take some practical steps to make your dog less of a target for the roamers.

• avoid the really bad areas, if possible
  
• silence the jingling of your dog's tags and leash using rubber bands. Tags jingling is a trigger for many dogs.
  
• walk with your dog at heel or behind you, so you see and intercept threats before she does.
  
  >I'd love to get your advice and/or recommendations for a trainer.
  
  In terms of training, there are a bunch of things you can do. Working in-person with a trainer is a great option. In searching for a trainer, look for someone with real certifications--professional experience alone doesn't cut it. Before committing to work with the trainer, ask specifically about the trainer's experience with fear-based aggression, leash reactivity, and positive socialization. Stay far away from anyone who offers to "fix" the problem in one visit, or who deals with fear/anxiety-based aggression by correcting the dog. That will only make things worse.
  
  Some of the training options a good trainer might recommend include:
  
  
• BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training) to teach your dog to use calming signals instead of offensive warnings to diffuse tension with other dogs
  
• Loose leash walking, so your dog doesn't feel tension on the leash when near other dogs
  
• Practice mock-greetings with easygoing, passive decoy dogs, to build confidence
  
• Teaching emergency maneuvers like about-turns, sitting behind you, and redirecting attention back to you
  
• LAT (look at that), a training tool method that rewards the fearful dog for looking at the scary thing, turning it into a fun game
  
• Counterconditioning - changing the way she feels when she sees a dog by associating dogs with enjoyable feelings, pavlov style.
  
• Desensitization - gradually exposing her to dogs at a pace she can handle
  
  A lot of those methods, especially BAT and Desensitization, require control over the situation though, and with roaming dogs that's not always possible. Ideally, you could set up mock-situations and practice with those sorts of methods, and use the other methods in real world situations.
  
  In the sidebar, any of the links in the "Fear and/or Aggression" or "Choosing a Trainer" sections might be useful.

Have you looked into this? It's made from apple bitters so it's safe and non-toxic, but it tastes HORRIBLE and smells very bitter and pungent if you get up close (i.e. your ferret would smell it right at the stove, but you wouldn't). If you do try it, do not just spray is at the offending area, it will diffuse through the air and you will taste it for days. Saturate a paper towel and wipe down the front of the stove and the area in front of it.

My dorm apartment stove had the bottom drawer, so I duct taped pieces of pizza box cardboard (the narrow edges) to the bottom of the drawer, but not to the floor, so they moved with the drawer, and then coated it in bitter spray, which the ferret I was babysitting at the time got grossed out by as he was trying to dig away the cardboard. So, maybe consider blocking it until your fuzzy learns to not want to play there?