Depends on what kind of kickstarter it is. If you want it to look and sound really good, you'll need to hire someone. I would like to point out that the most important thing in any video is sound. People will put up with a lot visually, but your message will be lost if your sound is really bad.

Buying is probably a bad idea, even if you do decide to do it yourself. If you want to get a bunch of friends to do this, contact your local camera shop and see what they have to rent. You can get pricing and such this way.

Minimum requirements:

• DSLR camera
  
• Prime lens (one that can shoot medium and close up shots - the shop can recommend one),
  
• Cards to save video on for the camera. You'll need at least 2.
  
• Something for recording sound.
  
• A card to save sound on. Sound files aren't huge, a single card will probably be fine.
  
• External hard drives to save video on from the camera. A 2-4Tb drive should do fine. USB3 or Thunderbolt is going to be best.
  
• A computer that can read both the sound and video cards, then transfer the contents on to the external hard drive.
  
  Ideal crew:
  
  
• Director of photography (camera person)
  
• Camera assistant (director of photography will have someone in mind)
  
• Sound person
  
• Gaffer who can do lighting
  
• A runner who is in charge of getting food and anything else that was forgotten
  
• An actual director. This can be a friend who manages everything.
  
  You'll also need someone to edit the video. Have the director of photography talk to the video editor before the shoot to ensure they coordinate formats.
  
  For finding people to hire, check meetup.com. I bet there's some kind of webseries/independent film/video people thing going on relatively close to you.
  
  One thing to keep in mind is to practice your video before hand and have it down pat before you get in front of a camera. You're going to get worn out faster than you'd think you would, and you'll get through everything faster if everyone who will be seen/heard has practiced.
  
  Here are the steps I'd recommend you take:
  
  

1. Find a location to shoot your video. Make sure the time/date/pay are taken care of before you hire your crew.
   
2. Hire the crew.
   
3. Give the crew at least a couple of hours to scout the location. They will bring sound and light equipment that will work best for that location. Point out where you want to be. They'll tell you if it's possible and where the cameras will go. Ask how long they will need to set up, and ensure that the person in charge will be there and inside before they arrive.
   
4. Have a rehearsal in the location the day/night before. Invite the crew. Bring gaff tape that is a bright color and mark the places that the people who will be in front of the camera will stand or sit. Don't use duct tape unless you enjoy picking sticky bits out of carpeting and explaining the brand new bald spot.
   
5. Crew arrives for filming. (1-2 hours before film time)
   
6. Cast arrives and gets made up/does final runthrough. (1 hour before film time)
   
7. Film
   
8. If the crew has been there for 3 hours, order food and have it delivered. This will likely take about an hour to arrive. Stop working for at least an hour for everyone to eat. DO NOT ABUSE YOUR CREW.
   
9. More filming. If this section approaches 3 hours, order food again.
   
10. You should be done with filming by now. If you're not, prioritize the stuff that ABSOLUTELY needs to be done at this point. If anything isn't absolutely necessary, toss it.
    
11. Pay the crew.
    
12. Crew cleans up. Remove any tape that's been put down.
    
13. Deliver video to the editor
    
14. Work with the editor to make sure you're getting what you want.
    
15. Pay the editor/receive finished video.
    
    Random stuff you might not have thought of:
    
    

• If you want music in your video, find some music in creative commons that you like or have a friend create some for you. Make sure the license matches for-profit usage.
  
• The crew will not bring food. Part of the deal is providing food for them. Make sure there's a water source available. Coffee at the beginning of the day is always welcome.

I run a campus makerspace with three MakerBots, and I feel your pain. It's been a year since we got them, and we've only just NOW (read: within the last month) figured out how to cut down on about 95% of the warping. Lots of the solutions here seem like they come from folks who aren't too familiar with MakerBot printers and the true shittiness of the flex build plate grip surface. For reference, our machines are used by a campus of about 10,000 students, so the machines are running 9 hours a day, every day.

First, I'd agree with some of the folks on here about throwing the machine out the window. If you're within the 30-day return window, return yours. They are absolute garbage, and if it wasn't for the $250 restocking fee that MakerBot charges after that 30 days, I'd return my three MakerBots in a heartbeat. Both the extruders and the build plates for the Replicator+ are truly awful. The proprietary MakerBot Print software leaves very little in the way of customization, so you can't really expect to even modify some of the slicer settings to test out what some of the folks in here are suggesting. At any rate, you should still print with a raft, because of the lack of a heated build plate.

MakerBot Customer Support, in their infinite wisdom, will typically recommend the following things over and over. I've spent more hours on the phone with them than hours at my job, and I'll preface this by saying none of their solutions worked in the long-term for any of our machines:

1. Blue painters tape is the go-to proposed solution by lots of folks. Don't bother, it just peels off as the plastic cools and shrinks. Likewise it scratches so easily, you end up replacing it weekly. In the specific case of MakerBot Replicator+ beds, blue painters tape doesn't stick for very long to the intentionally rough buildtak surface of the build plate, as opposed to with other smooth glass or PEI build plates.
   
2. Wiping build plates with isopropyl alcohol between prints to get rid of fingerprints and dirt. Never had a positive effect on our printed part quality.
   
3. Using helper disks is the solution most often suggested by MakerBot Support. Helper disks (referred to by someone here as "mouse ears") just warp off as the print warps, and pull the print up with them. They never worked for us, and did little to prevent warping or curling, even if we placed upwards of eight helper disks around the model.
   
4. Adjusting orientation to minimize surface area sticking to the build plate. On your model, try rotating it so the slimmest edge sits on the plate itself to create less surface area touching the flex build plate itself. This actually sort of works, but not consistently. Sometimes, it's not an ideal solution if propping up the model on a long edge creates tons of new supports.
   
5. Manually adjusting the z-offset height to be closer to build plate. This one, like adjusting the orientation, helped slightly but not in the long run. You're basically smushing more filament into the build plate if you lower the nozzle, which might help. But be careful not to scratch your build plate. Move down in small increments at a time and test.
   
6. Adjusting initial temperatures and slowing down the initial raft and first layer, and turning off the fan for the first few layers is another solution. Not a bad habit to get into, even if it doesn't work with MakerBot printers. Set the initial fan speed from 100% to 0%.
   
7. Avoiding twisting the flex build plates at all, in order to prevent hard-to-detect warping effects. These plates were supposed to be a novel, flexible way to remove printed parts but they have a tendency become permanently warped over time, leading to uneven build plate surfaces. Instead, use a spatula carefully and don't put too much force at all on the build plate.
   
8. Replacing the build plate entirely. A manager at MakerBot admitted over the phone that they ended up having no idea that the flex build plates were so bad, and warped so readily, and he said that they were slowly learning that the build plates were essentially a "consumable" just like filament. Meaning you can expect that if you're twisting them (even a little) to remove prints, you'll be replacing that flex build plate regularly. Another gold star for the MakerBot equipment quality control department.
   
   
   Now, the solution that worked miracles: try buying gaffer's tape. Another redditor recommended it, and we purchased this gaffer's tape. Since then, not a single print has failed due to warping issues. We can spread objects across the build plate with little regard for orientation or arrangement without much issue. Granted, on extremely large prints that take up the entire print volume, we might see a slight (maybe 5% at the corner, warping up about 1 or 2mm from the plate) warping issue, but it's nearly perfect compared to before. The same gaffer's tape strips I placed down for the very first test at the beginning of April are still sitting without a scratch on the build plates, so you can bet it doesn't peel or get scratched up easily either.
   
   I can't understate the amazing value of gaffer's tape.

You sir, have nailed exactly what I am shooting for in my EDC setup, I feel my congratulations is not enough to express how proud you must feel. Beautifully done. If you come across anything that is not matte black enough, I find that Gaffer's Tape fixes it up quite nicely. Imagine Duct Tape without the residue.

I have been considering a G-Shock like the one in the photograph, but I can't bring myself to purchase it in the stead of my already functional Target-bought Timex.

I have a similar load-out, but as you can see, I'm not nearly as color schemed. I wish i could do a better photo, but my camera cellular-telephone is currently the best camera I own. I plan to get a better photograph in the future.

Finally, do you think that your flashlight was a good buy?

I prefer to cover the bottom of the pedals with gaffer tape — there are YouTube videos (which is how I found out about this) but I do it a little differently:

1. Take off the bottom plate of the pedal
   
2. Cover the outside bottom plate with gaffer tape from side to side (left/right, not top to bottom) so that you have about 1/8” or so that wraps around to the inside of the bottom plate.
   
3. For a typical Boss-size pedal, you’ll need a bit more than two strips so for best results start at the middle and then do top and bottom overlapping with the first piece of tape.
   
4. If there is a battery door on the bottom, leave a space for it (unless you’re 100% sure you’ll never use a battery)
   
5. I’ve found that some mini pedals (Mooer) it’s virtually impossible to get the bottom plate off. For any pedal it is possible to wrap the tape around the outside but putting it on the bottom plate gets better results because the pressure of the plate against the enclosure fights against the tape coming off.
   
6. Now the tape gives you a very flat, clean surface for the velcro
   
7. I always use brand-name industrial velcro. I don’t wait days but I do let it sit for a while (20-30 minutes) before starting to use it.
   
8. People have lots of opinions about what size/shape velcro to put on the bottom of the pedal. For most standard size pedals I put a single strip of 2” hook side that runs the entire length of the pedal top to bottom (leaving about 1/8” margin at each end) — although this makes it harder to get the pedal off the board, the velcro actually stays on the pedal better for the same reason that it stays on the board better if you use a single long strip from end to end — as you pull to detach the pedal, the unattached portions of the velcro strip keep the velcro from pulling off at the tension point.
   
   Edit: the gaffer tape should come off clean in most cases so this is also a great way to attach velcro to new/mint pedals and be able to easily get it off later when you want to sell but leave the pedal in mint condition.

Build some! Get some hard plastic irrigation tubing from Lowes or Home Depot, a few connectors, and some duct tape/grip tape or sand paper. If you know someone with a saw, great, if not you'll want to get a pipe cutter. Building your own is fun and while it seems spendy, I've gotten at least 5 hoops from a roll and have been able to downsize at will. You'll probably want to tape the hoop for added weight, and while gaff tape is nice and great for grip, duct tape is a bit cheaper and does a good enough job.

Congratulations on 3 months sober, it's inspiring to hear hooping has helped!

Hello, I somewhat specialize here.

What you can do is use gaff tape to secure the phone to the headset. use it around all the edges, at your discretion. you MUST use gaff tape because it leaves very little sticky residue... some may stay because of the heat, but its very easily cleanable. The strength of duct tape without the mess.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power%C2%AE/dp/B00GZE3UJ8
*This comes in many colors, even white, which may suit better to be less noticeable.

After that, you can secure the black cover plate to it to cover up the phone... if you care more about security than aesthetics, go ahead and secure the black cover plate to the headset as well with the gaff tape...

alternatively, you can configure an anti theft pull box to the phone and/or headset. anti theft kits will most likely leave some sort of mark on either device so use with caution.

http://www.cissecuritysolutions.com/Anti-Theft_Pull-Boxes.html

I'm a renter - I've learned to get ethernet all sorts of fun places without taking the hassle or expense of running cables through walls and under floors.

Step 1 - What you need:#

Buy 100 ft. of flat, white, Cat 6 cable - something like this will do.

You'll also want some white gaffer tape. Be SURE you get gaffer tape, and not duct tape. It's just strong enough to string up cable, and won't peel paint. Something like this.

Pour yourself a glass of lemonade. We'll come back to this later.

Step 2 - What to do:#

Here's where you get to be creative.

Find the crown moulding where the walls meets the ceilings and floors of your house. The little creases are perfect for disguising that thin white cable. I have hundreds of feet of ethernet going all over my house, and it's practically invisible. If you don't have crown moulding, improvise. Match the tape to your paint colors on your walls. Take your time, measure twice, and an extra pair of hands is always helpful. Be sure to be gentle with Cat6, especially with sharp bends and corners.

You also might want a couple ethernet switches on either end, depending on what your needs are. I've had good luck with TP-Link switches, they're fairly affordable, but people don't seem to like them very much around here.

Step 3 - Drink that glass of lemonade from earlier.

'Cause you're done, baby. Enjoy your gigabit LAN.

P.S. If you've got any more questions or whatever, shoot me a message. This sub is a VERY helpful resource, too.

It looks to me like your butt was too low for your hamstrings to have been engaged. But you're pretty tall, so maybe they were. Either way, I found this video pretty enlightening about the importance of getting your hamstrings involved in your deadlift.

I like to set up with my butt down, chest out, back flat, arms tight, and then lift my butt, while keeping a flat back, until I can feel my hamstrings load. The weight does really feel lighter when this all comes together properly, and it is quite surreal the first time you pull it off.

For the chub I recommend gaffer tape for its strong hold and durability without leaving sticky residue.

I used to etch my tools with my first initial and last name. My tools at home have been etched with the last 4 of my social. I was talking to a friend that used to be an investigator for the police department. That friend said that if someone is caught stealing or with stolen property, they'll usually check everything else in their possession. If your tools are marked with your name and drivers license number, the police will be able to contact you and return your items. Also, put the abbreviated state there as well. Cops can usually identify a drivers license number when they see it and will be able to look it up in their vehicle. I've started etching my tools with a small dremel brand engraver (model: 290-01). For my bigger items (i.e; drills, circular saws, and other powertools) I will etch them with name and drivers license number, but then I will also use a black or white paint marker to write my name on it. Sharpie has different size paint markers, don't use the regular sharpie markers because they wear off after a few weeks, the paint markers tend to last a lot longer. I've even made a few different size stencils and spray painted my name on the tools. I used Microsoft Word and selected the "Stencil" font and printed out stencils, laminated them, and then cut it out with an exacto knife. It takes some time, but those stencils are re-useable and tend to last awhile. I was in the Marine Corps and they trained us to mark everything. Even our tools in our toolboxes were marked with the toolbox number, drawer, and item number within the drawer. My underwear and socks were individually marked!!

Also, another thing that I've done in the past to quickly identify my tools from others is to put hockey tape on the handles of my power tools. There's also "GAFFERS Tape" that you can buy with different colors. They're tough like duct tape, but don't leave a sticky residue when the tape is removed. I don't use electrical tape because after awhile, it'll stop being sticky and will either fall off or will just float around the handle and gets pretty annoying. Oh, and sometimes if you're out in the heat and the adhesive gets warm and oozes off and onto your hands making your hands black and sticky. Hockey tape is the tape hockey players use on their hockey sticks and they come in different colors, so if you're a hot pink man, then wrap your handles in pink hockey tape. It's sort of like that tape that's on wooden baseball bats, works great for handles on your impact driver or circular saw. You can also write your name on that part as well. I mean, this stuff was make for the grips on hockey sticks! I think it'll work on your drill. Just a few ideas..

I'd always carry a roll of 2" roll of this Photo Black on me at all times (it's just paper tape though, you have to use a lot to secure but it's easy on surfaces:

http://www.pnta.com/scenic/tape/shurtape-p743-photo-matte-masking-tape-2-x-30-yards/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&gclid=CPHwqLDbg88CFUFkhgodKkwKhg

And I had a roll in my kit of this:

https://www.amazon.com/ShurTape-formerly-Permacel-Gaffers-Black/dp/B000QDXX00

Less art department friendly but much safer and heavy duty.

They're expensive but if you are making money from your work it's an expense. If you aren't making money then there's cheaper alternatives, but I can't recommend any specific.

Mike Mike Mike Mike Mike Mike!

I had to think over this for a while. I'm going to be a teacher. That means that I'll have students. I'm going to be a teacher in a high school, which means the students will probably be a little rowdy.

I'm going to be either and English teacher, or a part-English, Part-Computer teacher, which means I'll need a universal educational tool for both if that time comes.

The item I picked is one that isn't usually used in the US (I doubt it's used in much of any educational system) but it has a more "universal" counterpart in the US that is commonly used in schools. The variety I picked is known for it's "Clean removal" which is me being kind on my students.

Gaffer Tape. Because Duct Tape is too harsh

(Note: I would never actually use Duct Tape\Gaffer Tap on any of my students. It would be a useful tool though. That or bulk ADHD medication)

Surprise me from my wishlist! I don't need gaffer tape, but I do need floating candles for my wedding in June! =D

The bung did not want to stay in initially. I think because I had pulled it from the sanitized water so to make sure it wasn't going anywhere and ruining the works I secured it with some gaffers tape.

Unrelated pro tip from photo and video experience. Decent gaffers tape is much better for securing non paper items than duck tape. It wont leave a sticky mess and its just as strong if not stronger than duck tape.

This is what I use and love

Like the others said, a good upholstery shop would have no problem taking care of this for you. If you use a gaffer's tape it'll hold the repair better than duct tape, as well as blending better with the fabric or vinyl of the seat.

>...They are up against white trim...any temporary-ish solutions on sticking the cable to the door trim?

www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power/dp/B00LMNYFHI/

White colored gaffer's tape. If you aren't familiar with the product, it's basically duct tape, but does NOT leave behind sticky residue when you remove it.

color matching for now, easy removal and clean up later

You might be interested in QLC+ (it's free and open source) and an Enttec DMX USB Pro mk I (same company as the DMXIS, but a hundred bucks less). I've programmed a show for a buddy's band to their click track and had a generally positive time with it. I'm a professional lighting nut, so I thought it was a bit restrictive, but that's more of a problem I have with preprogrammed shows than with the software.

Take the $200 you'd save with this control scheme instead and spent it on safety cables, velcro cable ties, a storage bin for your cables, computer, and DMX adapter, gaff tape, and pizza for when you get together to program and jam the first time!

Those links probably aren't the best options for each thing, I just wanted to link examples.

I use black gaff tape to cover any conspicuous logos on equipment I’m trying to keep low key. Works great, doesn’t leave a residue after a trip.

If you’re not familiar with gaff tape, it’s similar to duct tape but the facing is a matte cloth and the adhesive is designed to not leave a residue when removed. It’s incredibly useful in a variety of situations and worth the $20 or so per roll.

Edit: this is the stuff

"A gaffer in the motion picture industry and on a television crew is the head electrician, responsible for the execution (and sometimes the design) of the lighting plan for a production. The term gaffer originally related to the moving of overhead equipment to control lighting levels using a gaff. The gaffer's assistant is the best boy.[1]

Sometimes the gaffer is credited as Chief Lighting Technician (CLT)."
-Wikipedia

Side note: that's why the black tape used to secure/hide cords is called gaffer's tape

"In US and Canadian filmmaking, the key grip supervises all grip (lighting and rigging) crews and reports to the director of photography.[1]"
-Wikipedia

So the Key Grip is similar to the Gaffer, but has a focus on things like dollies, cranes, vehicles, etc.

One of 1,000 uses for the best tape in the world: Gaffer tape.

http://www.amazon.com/Gaffers-Tape-Professional-Alternative-Electrical/dp/B018TKMNCA

(or buying nicer stands)

I dunno, I look online at my local stores inventory and I see "black duct tape" and some that say "no residue" but I dont know if they are actual gaffers tape (which is more like a cloth and not shiny plastic) like I would use at a show.


Ill have to see in person next time I go, if so it would make things easier for me to get it in a pinch for work.


Like if you check lowes or homedepot I dont see anything called gaffers tape or gaffe tape available here. If you go to guitarcenter.com you do.
I dont know if its just a labeling thing or not though.



You may already know this (sorry if so) but this is what Im talking about

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Gaffer-GafferPower-Available-Multiple/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527720749&sr=8-1&keywords=gaffer+tape

its a cloth tape that leaves no residue and is very easy to tear

Make your own Top Gear "The World's Leading Motoring Show^TM" subtitles just like they do on the show! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TPJY8U/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
It's ambitious and rubbish!
(not affiliate link BTW)

Thanks guys!

​

Might try this, I have some Amazon credits to use

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZO7BNLE/ref=twister_B01N0SAZNC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Cigartte lighter socket + quality car phone charger + Add-a-circuit kit (check your fuse type) + some quality tape + Right-angle USB charging cable

You wire the red wire on the cigarette adapter to an add-a-ciruit (i.e. with a crimp tool). The black wire goes to ground (i.e. tucked under some bolt someplace, or a ring terminal ). You put the charger in the now-attached cigarette adapter in the fuse area under your driver's side dash. Then you need to route an appropriate USB cable (i.e. with one with a right-angle head or right-angle adapter on the dash cam side) to the under dash area (usually by tucking it under the headliner over the windshield, and then by popping the A-pillar cover off and the side panel of the dashboard, and feeding the cable through). Once you have all the wires under the dash, you just need to hook them up, test them, and then tape them together so they can't come loose.

The advantage of going this route is that you 'own' all the pieces. If any part of the formula isn't working out, you can change just that part. You also get a spare USB-C charging port for free since that adapter has both A and C.

Thanks for mentioning gaffers tape. What kind of gaffers tape did you use? I don't know much about tapes and 3D printing. Would this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Tape/dp/B00LMNYFHI/

Thanks!

I love my white shoes, haven't gotten a bad rower strap mark yet, maybe the straps at my studio are forgiving! I do try not to tighten the strap down too much or use my feet to "pull" myself from the finish back to the catch.

You can use a piece of white gaffer tape across the strap area of your shoe to avoid the problem entirely (gaffer tape is easier on and off than duct tape and doesn't leave any adhesive on your shoe) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZO7BNLE/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For general accumulated dirt, I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LABUT5S/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like https://www.amazon.com/TapeMe-Gaffers-Black-Yards-Heavy/dp/B01G2FKMHM/ would probably be more cost effective if you end up using a lot, though it's 2 inches wide.

Yes, there is a way:

• Press Controls at the very bottom left
  
• Press Settings at the top of the window that came up
  
• Press Safety & Security along the left
  
• Press Data Sharing
  
• Uncheck the first I Agree box
  
  Edit: This disables sending clips to Tesla, but it might still be recording. If it really comes to it, gaffers tape?. I'd just ask the gate guards if they know of anyone there has a tesla. If they say yes, there is obviously something that can be done....

You can get it for $12 on Amazon, the tape that is.

Gaffers Tape - 2 Inch by 40 Yards in Black - Get 33% More! High End Professional Grade - Gaffer Tape is the Perfect Alternative to Duct Tape, Electrical Tape, and other Adhesives https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TKMNCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ytxRyb7J2HKQB

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZE3UJ8

It's great stuff!

Swap the iFixIt out for their new model, it's MUCH nicer.

Other things I'd throw in:

• For those times you need to figure out how far that cable run really is? Bosch Laser Measure
  
• Occasionally one needs to take apart big things (like racks!), for that you need a nice fat(max) screwdriver
  
• 3 port USB 3.0 hub and Gig Ethernet because you never know when you might need to hardware (and Macbook Air's suck for # of USB ports).
  
  While pricey, I'd also swap duct tape for gaffing tape. Terribly useful, rips easier and doesn't leave residue (unless you leave it there for a REALLY long time).

Here's a sneak peek of /r/StageCrew using the top posts of the year!

#1: My friend and I chilling during the downtime at Mary Poppins at the seymore center | 0 comments
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#3: An Indispensable Tools for the Professional Roadie! | 1 comment

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Eh... you probably can't, actually. This roll on Amazon isn't a bad deal. (Currently $17.34 with Amazon Prime / free s.saver shipping available.) It's going to be a fair bit more expensive than duct tape.

If you want to look for a local supplier, they might have it at the hardware store (although half the time, they've never heard of it), but also try calling places that deal in pro A/V equipment-- pro photography/camera shops or music stores (think Guitar Center) often carry it.

I've had success with gaff tape. I put a small piece on my french press to indicate how high I need to fill it with water and it's lasted through a number of washes. I think I've had that piece on for about a year now. Here's some red gaff tape.

You actually want to get gaffers tape. It's more expensive but it doesn't leave residue on your cables or surface (provided you change it every so often.) It also won't get all dried and crispy like duct tape.

You probably want 2"

Do yourself a favor and pick up some Gaffer Tape and place on the printing surface(Tray). It helps the first layer of a print adhere to the surface much better. I used to struggle with starting a print almost every time but after I started using the tape I haven't had a problem since.

TIL about gaffer's tape, now on my Amazon wish list. Haven't used it yet, but if it works as advertised I may be able to turn that "MMPH! MMPH!" into a "MM! MM!".

No, that's definitely duct tape..

This is gaff tape.

It's also worth noting they're not applying it well. Without an inch or two of overlap on either side, one kick will dislodge the whole bundle. If that bundle is coming across a traffic area, they also need to tape the body lengthwise.

I run a 50' ethernet cable from my living room into my bedroom. I just pulled it tight, and secured it with a roll of Gaffer's Tape. Once it's gaffed down you can stick it under a rug or what have you. For two cables put them side by side, pull tight, and gaff a foot at a time

gaff tape is strong but doesnt leave the sticky residue that duct tape does.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QC0XZO?aaxitk=3ljt6H2kU-vZRxJ.BKHVUA&pd_rd_i=B000QC0XZO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3ff6092e-8451-438b-8278-7e94064b4d42&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=pro-gaff+tape&hsa_cr_id=7503656610801&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=Pro%20Gaffer%20Gaffers%20Tape%2C%202%20in%20x%2055%20yd%2C%20Black

It looks a lot like Gaf Tape.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/

it is ProGaff 2 inch tape. all gaffer tape is matte as it is a special fabric and glue combo made to stick well, but not leave residue when pulled up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PX4ZBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a3ogzbJ2G4ZZH

Gaffer's Tape, not what you're talking about though. It's aluminum wire backed duct tape. The God tier of all tapes.

Not sure what exactly Amanda’s tape looked like but.....This is the kind of tape that Kim Kardashian uses for her boobs.

Might want to look into a Gaffers tape. Its a matte finish, non-reflective so that might work. I picked some up for my DIY screen from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y23YYTY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

Pro Gaff on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ProTapes-Pro-Gaffers-Adhesive-Thickness/dp/B00J4I9GNG

Every color you could ever want

Tip: When that tape wears off, try using real Gaffer Tape. The tape you're using is closer to proper Duct tape, which may annoy you when it comes off (stick and stuff)

This is the tape that road crews use to tape cables to the ground (tile, carpet etc). It's slightly pliable and wont leave any residue when you remove it. It's actually amazing stuff, i use it for all sorts of things

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-JD-XI-JD-Xi/dp/B00VHFOV3E/
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014M8ZO8S?ref=emc_b_5_t
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https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Gaffer-GafferPower-Available-Multiple/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/

I'm only half joking.

Gaffer's Tape

Table top facade

It's usually black gaffers tape like this one

Any non-conductive tape should do though.

I doubt it would be the tape that would cause a noise. Make sure all of the screws are in all the way and it's properly secured.

Top rated one on Amazon is $16.71. I guess it might depend on what you mean by "a decent sized roll", but I have one and it's the size of a regular roll of tape, so I would call it "decent sized".

For hiding the power cord, you could try white gaffer's tape: https://smile.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power/dp/B00LMNYFHI

It feels more like a fabric, so it won't shine like duct tape would. Also, gaffer's tape is stronger than masking tape, but shouldn't leave residue like duct tape might.

Do not use electrical tape. Use gaffer tape

http://www.amazon.com/Intertape-Polymer-Group-5638-Impregnated/dp/B000DZF750
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaffer_tape

Gaff tape sticks to everything

REAL USA Professional Grade Gaffer Tape By Gaffer Power, Made in the USA, Heavy Duty Gaffers Tape, Non-Reflective, Multipurpose. (2 Inches x 30 Yards, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cvR0Db5P2XRNQ

Gaffer's tape and a sledgehammer oughta fix it.

The magic tape you seek is gaffer's tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power/dp/B00GZE3UJ8

I go through miles of rimtape, so I started using Gaffer's Tape on everything. I've never had an issue with it, and one roll will do a minimum of 21 700c wheels.

Gaffer tape

Real Premium Grade Gaffer Tape By GafferPower Made in the USA Black (Also Available in Multiple Colors) 2 Inch X 30 Yards Heavy Duty Gaffer's Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Pun4CbSXM3219

They sell it on Amazon even have it on Prime at a somewhat higher than normal price. You can buy it from nearly any production company/store, 4Wall, Christie Lites, VER, LMG, PRG, BMI, or nearly any A/V store.

This should work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVCFFI6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ix3Cub0RXPA5C

Gaffers tape is crazy expensive. :D

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Cloth-Gaffers-Tape-6910/dp/B00H95LOIG

Heads up, the only issue I've had with my pressure pad in the past 8 or so months (range/ fun time weapon, not a work gun) is that your run of the mill gaffer tape shits a huge amount of slime onto the pressure pad, but even then, goo-gone gets rid of it

No, that is gorilla tape, that's double thick duct tape.

Gaffer's tape is matte black and comes up with little to no residue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/