(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best household batteries

I just got a Odyssey + this weekend, It's pretty good, the picture is awesome.

​

Here is my rundown so far with the Odyssey +

It has the same resolution as the vive pro and their anti-screendoor tech which just blends in the gap between pixels with colors from the pixels. That's pretty cool, I hardly ever notice any screendoor effect at all, but it does make things like text a bit blurry but you would get that anyway on the OG Vive.

The Oled screen and resolution makes for watching movies in the bigscreen app awesome. deep blacks and vibrant colors, it's a real joy. I use it for seat experiences mainly and the tracking is OK, doesn't do to well in the dark but the tracking is pretty good considering it's only using 2 cameras.

The controllers are alright at best, they are a little slick and tend to roll everywhere when you put them down, they take 2 AA 1.5v Batteries per controller and they last about a day or two, I recommend getting some rechargeable ones and make sure they provide a stable 1.5v otherwise they will show low battery when they aren't. I got these, they seem to work well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J9PQ1CN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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You'll also want to get a VRcover after market face cushion, The stock one has a bit of lightbleed and is a bit hard, The VRcover feels 100 times better and fixes the light bleed. You get 2 for like $29

https://vrcover.com/product/samsung-odyssey-plus-replacement/

​

I found the cord to the headset to be short, I hear some people got extension cables to fix this but I would just see for yourself before you make that call.

Sorry If I was all over the place on this one but it's a good headset for the money, I don't regret buying it.

1. Run the VR compatibility check: https://store.steampowered.com/app/323910/SteamVR_Performance_Test/
   
2. Upgrade to Windows 10 version 1809:https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
   
3. Load Steam VR: https://store.steampowered.com/app/250820/
   
4. Load STEAM WMR: https://store.steampowered.com/app/719950/
   
5. Bluetooth: For all but Samsung Odyssey HMD+, be sure your computer has a Bluetooth capability to talk to the hand controllers. If capability is not built in, buy a Bluetooth dongle and plug it into a USB 2 port. AND, if possible place this in an USB 2 port that is away from the Headset connection to the computer --- perhaps the front of the computer. Known to work (Plugable Bluetooth 4.0 low energy.): https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI
   
6. Plug in the your headset:a. Headset HDMI: plug headset HDMI connector into your graphics cardb. Headset USB: plug into USB 3 connector (blue or red)This will cause the headset software to install the headset to start runningAlternate approach: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-set-your-windows-mixed-reality-headset
   
7. Pair your controllers:https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/mixed-reality/enthusiast-guide/set-up-windows-mixed-reality#set-up-your-motion-controllers
   
8. Play Space: be sure you clear plenty of space. If you are 6 foot, you need a nine foot ceiling. You can break controllers, your hands, or TVs etc. if you do not have enough space. I found that standing on a rug the siz of your safe area (for me that is 8 feet by 6 feet) enables my feet to tell me if I am heading toward a boundary where trouble lurks. A padded rug or yoga mat helps with being able to sense edges and play for long sessions.
   
9. Games: start with free and check STEAM for the most played. Consider:
   
   a. The Lab
   
   b. Rec Room
   
   c. Google Earth
   
   d. You Tube
   
   e. Beat Saber
   
   f. Elven Assassin
   
   g. Arizona Sunshine
   
   h. Gorn
   
   i. Pavlov
   
   ​
   
   
10. Location of free WMR software for education: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/search/shop/apps?q=victoryvr
    
    to see the way school use these to make middle and high scholl curriculums, as well as, other items from VictoryVR education company : https://www.victoryvr.biz/victoryvr-products/
    
    ​
    
    
11. Buy rechargeable batteries: people say the Amazon basic rechargeable are great; highly rated from IKEAhttps://www.amazon.com/Ikea-ladda-Battery-rechargeable-2450/dp/B01MQ0U97A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1544531944&sr=8-4&keywords=ikea+rechargeable+batteries#customerReviews

Pick up a G305. Also grab some lithium AAs as they last an insane amount of time and are lighter than normal AAs. I personally use a lithium AAA with half of one of these adapters to make it even lighter but the AA is already a massive decrease in weight.

It's a solid mouse with the same body shape as the Logitech G Pro (not the Pro Wireless, which is a totally different shape) and it's great for small/medium hands. That said I have large hands but claw grip and I love mine.

If you're new to buying mice, wireless and light mice might seem like "nice to haves" but especially for FPS games I feel they're imperative. As soon as it's in your hand and you play a match you'll understand. This is a great site to learn about solid mice and read/watch reviews on ones you'll be recommended like the G305.

> I'm also impressed that they support using a lithium battery without hurting the light (maybe that's a function of the newer LEDs?).

All AAA lights that I know of can run on a disposable lithium AAA like the Energizer L92. They're meant to be voltage-compatible with alkalines and only start off a tenth of a volt or so higher. As those are expensive and non-rechargeable, I would generally only recommend them for emergency devices which are stored for a long time and rarely used. Their shelf life and capacity are excellent, but NiMH rechargeables are preferable for daily use.

The D25aaa can also use 10440 lithium-ion rechargeable batteries, which are 4.2 volts at full charge instead of the 1.5 volts of an alkaline. The total energy stored in these is about the same as an NiMH AAA, but the higher voltage allows for greater light output in exchange for shorter runtime. Some lights are 3-4 times as bright when using this battery. Some lights are fully-functional with these. Some work, but can't access lower modes. Some are damaged by the higher voltage.

The LED has little to do with it. Most LEDs used in flashlights want 3-4 volts for the amount of current the driver circuit provides. It's the driver sensitive to extra voltage. Lights using a single 1.5 volt battery have a boost driver that increases the voltage to the amount the LED needs, regulates current and provides a means of controlling brightness, either by changing the current limit or blinking the LED rapidly. On some of these, an electronic component, usually the microcontroller can't handle too much voltage. On others, the driver simply doesn't handle the situation where input voltage is greater than the desired output voltage very well.

Lights intended for higher voltage battery configurations often have very different driver circuits that output less voltage than the battery supplies, or that don't change the voltage at all. Some have sophisticated circuits that can handle several different situations comfortably.

Everyone seems to love the Eneloop cells, but I'm not that big a fan. They claim to keep their charge for a longer period of time, but any decent charger has a ~20mA trickle mode that can keep a NiMH cell fully charged until it's needed. Why pay the same price for half the amp-hours - just so you can leave your batteries in bags? I'm not sold.

Let's look at their AA offerings, according to their own website...

Eneloop

1800 life cycles, 2000mAh each

2000mAh is smaller than the standard 2500, but it's likely because they took out 1/5 of the space and replaced it with their special retain charge longer formula. Chances are good this formula is either a change to the electrolyte or a small barrier within the cell.

Regardless, 2000mAh is on the low end of average. For $2.65 per cell that's a pretty hefty price tag for a mediocre performance.

2000mAh per cycle 1800 life cycles = 3600Ah in a lifespan

$21.32 for a pack of 8 = $2.67 per cell or $1.33 per Ah

Eneloop Lite

2000 life cycles, 1000mAh each

1000mAh is extremely small. It's pretty difficult to find prices for these online, since the standard and XX cells seem to be much, much more popular. I can't give pricing information, but since these are less than half the standard capacity of a decent NiMH cell they really don't warrant much attention.

1000mAh per cycle 2000 life cycles = 2000Ah in a lifespan

Eneloop XX

500 life cycles, 2550mAh each

These cells are more like the actual performance of a real AA NiMH, however their massive price tag and reduced lifespan make them pretty bad deals overall.

2550mAh per cycle 500 life cycles = 1275Ah in a lifespan (that's 35% of their standard cells)

$35.99 for a pack of 8 = $4.50 per cell or $1.76 per Ah

Yikes.

Now let's compare them to another brand:

Duracell

??? life cycles, 2450mAh each

These cells seem pretty cheap, but that's because this particular cell type is no longer manufactured by Duracell. They've moved on to offer only one type of battery, I believe in the 2100mAh range. They're nice and cheap which makes them a pretty good buy. Let's assume they're offering ~500 cycles in a lifespan, as that was the standard high-capacity life span when these were manufactured.

2450mAh per cycle 500 life cycles = 1225Ah in a lifespan

$12.79 for a pack of 8 = $1.60 per cell or $0.65 per Ah

Conclusion?

Eneloop cells are really overpriced for the performance you're getting. You can do much better with standard cells and just be responsible enough to charge them before use.

Currently using the GPW and G305 (use them pretty much equal, if I'm having a bad game I'll switch). My S2 arrived Tuesday, and it's on it's way back today lmao. Shape isn't bad it's too small for me (19.5cm x 10.5xm hands). That said despite the shape, it really did suck going back to a wired mouse haha. I don't have a bungee and I forget how annoying it was to constantly have to rewrap my wire around my desk and tug on it in case it fell off the back of the table.

Additionally, even though I did like the shape of S2, the glossy coating is retarded. My hands would feel disgusting like I just came in my hand and ate a bag of potato chips. Then without even washing my hand I would place it on my gpw and instantly feel clean. You can see it too, my S2 looks far grosser after 2 days than my g102 did after 2 years. I also felt really silly paying $70 for a mouse that from a technical standpoint is inferior to my $50 g305 in every singe way. Even my $27 g102 feels higher quality than the s2 in terms of buttons, wheel and material. Don't worry about sensor, 3360/hero is overkill and I never noticed anything going from Mercury to Hero.

On top of that instead of using amazon prime and having 2 days turnarounds tops it takes 8 days to recieve from Zowie direct. First impression of Zowie, the shapes ARE GOOD, but not really not that special and in no way make up for their mediocre quality and being overpriced. Like yeah, despite being too small for me I did like the shape of the s2, but I didn't like it any better than my g305 or gpw, it was just different.

When I got my $130 g pro wireless I didn't feel like I got ripped off at all. When I felt how sturdy yet light it was, and saw how long the rechargeable battery lasted, I knew I had paid a high price for a high quality product. I have the complete opposite feeling with Zowie.

So in conclusion get the GPW. Better yet, if you're already using the g203, get a g305 for less than half the price. Get these battery shellshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with these lithium ion batteries

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the mouse will weight EXACTLY THE SAME as the g102.

I know using nonrechargeable can be lame, but I've been using the g203 for a month now and the battery still shows full bars.

Like I said I use gpw and g305, and I honestly feel like I play better with the g305, I'm just so used to the shape after going from a g100s, to a g203 to this over the past 4 years. Despite the shape I still use the GPW too because it's hard NOT to aim well with a large wireless 80g mouse.

Yeah I think that's a good call. $37 is a great price for an Xbone controller and all you need to do is throw some AA's in it and it should be identical to the wireless one. If you check the reviewer's pictures you can even see it says 'Wireless' on the inside (behind where the batteries go) so should be the exact same controller. I can personally vouch for the Wireless dongle. Works flawlessly on W10 but on older Windows you have to get the drivers manually last I checked, but I still got it working great on W7 and W8.1. Let me know if you need help tracking down the drivers.

Check out the Duracell Procells on Amazon (will link in a minute when back at my PC). I read a lot of reviews before picking up my first box. Reviewer's tested them pretty thoroughly and determined they're identical to the regular Duracall batteries aside from the wrap, and they're typically much cheaper because they're intended for the industrial market and sold in bulk (boxes of 24 for the AA's I think).

Edit:

• Regular Duracell 20pk is $12.04 on Amazon. Works out to $0.60 each.
  
• Duracell Procell 24pk is $10.61 on Amazon. Works out to $0.44 each.
  
  Maybe not "much cheaper" but still, a few dollars cheaper for 4 extra batteries that perform identically and are from the same company :). Both are Prime Eligible so free shipping if you have Prime.
  
  Don't waste your money on the Amazon Basic crap. I've seen too many reviews of batteries and charger cables blowing up. I've never heard of a Duracell battery exploding. I've had one or two leak in my life but I've never seen or heard of one exploding that wasn't seriously abused. I've also never had a charger cable light on fire but if you check enough of the Amazon Basic cables reviews you'll find reviewers who had their cables light on fire or melt. Not worth saving a few dollars in my opinion.
  
  Edit2:
  
  Also while I'm on the subject of charger cables, the Anker Powerline is the best cable I've ever had. Most iPhone cables die out within a few months, but I've had one of these 10ft Powerline Lightning cables for nearly a year and the cable itself is still going strong. One of the sides of the lightning connector finally began deplating and the actually connector plates have worn out on one side. I've never had a cable last long enough to begin deplating :P. Luckily Lightning cables are reversible and the other side still works great :P. Here's the 10ft Powerline Micro-USB version if you need that version instead. This one is only $8 on Amazon! The XBone controller is Micro-USB also so this cable should work great, and I expect it to last a year or longer. The connector will probably begin failing before the cable itself, if mine is anything to go by.
  
  The Powerline cable claims to be Kevlar reinforced and I believe it considering how much abuse mine has taken. My sister insists on plugging her phone in and using it at the same time, causing a sharp bend in the cable right near the plug, but it hasn't seemed to effect the cable in the slightest.
  
  Most of the cables I have don't last nearly that long with daily use. Plus it's cheaper and longer than the original iPhone Lightning Cable from Apple, if you can even find one on Amazon that isn't a knockoff. Of course they also make a 1m variant if you're into shorter cables.

I started vaping on an unregulated parallel box mod as well. If you actually learn and pay attention to ohm's law, you're not going to kill yourself.

I started with a Tesla Invader II and a Plume Veil RDA clone.

Live by an Ohm's Law calculator and Steam Engine Coil calculator

Watch some coil building tutorials.
Maybe start here:
Then for advanced coil building from someone like Twisted Messes. I will shamelessly admit he's my all time favorite coil tutorial guy.

Make sure you use good batteries and read up on general battery safety from Mooch

Also and this is important. Get an Ohm Reader (Here for a cheap one. or here for a more expensive and much better one.)

Instead of an ohm reader you can opt for a Coil Building Station which will let you check your resistance as well as dry burn your coils. It's a much better option than building on your unregulated mod itself where a short can potentially end in you not having a mod/rda/hand anymore.

If all of this seems like too much, you can also sell that mod for a decent amount of money and pick up a cheap regulated starter kit that is pretty much plug and play like the kanger topbox or many others.


I think I've covered just about everything here, and if I haven't I'm sure someone will correct me.

Ok. D, C, AA, and AAA are all 1.5 volt batteries. So they all put out the same power. The size allows D batteries to hold a longer charge then an AA. It's like a gas tank. The gas has the same energy but if you have a bigger tank you can go farther. So going from D's to AA's would actually cut down on your runtime in that light. The main reason why people want AA batteries is that they are common and are small enought to make a light fit in your pocket.

The next level of batteries would be something like a CR123 lithium battery. This battery is a 3 volt battery. That's like having two of any of the ones previously mentioned. You could mod your light to have a special battery holder and then wire two or three of these together to give you 6 or 9 volts respectively. But you'd have to find a led to harness that power and then create a mount for it.

All in all with the skills you've stated I'd suggest just the first bulb I said. The stock mil-spec bulb is right around 40 lumens and the replacement is 140 lumens. Much much brighter.

Had fun building this with my 11 yo as a gift for college freshman. Here's what we used:

8" sched 40 PVC pipe

PVC cement

Talentcell 12v lithium battery

2.1 Bluetooth receiver / amp

12v to 24v booster

Skar 8" dual voice coil sub wired as 4ohm

Infiity 6.5" reference speakers 8ohm

Mats to isolate 6.5" speakers, and this

Passive raidators (semi-sealed enclosure), and this

Rifle swivels and sling, and this

Mounting feet

Clamps for main plate

Finished it in a truck bed liner spray in black on round PVC surfaces and a metallic gray on the faceplate.

One of the tricks was to create a flat faceplate from the PVC by cutting the 8" pipe section, cooking 15 mins at 300F, then flatenning it out with weight / pressure. Next time, I would prob sub a different material for the faceplate just to make it easy.

If I could do it over again, I'd use a thinner PVC pipe. Standard Sched 40 in 8" weights a lot... 5lb / foot plus very heavy end caps that I used to surround both sides. Probably 20 lbs of PVC alone.

Also, struggle to get the thing to be truly enclosed. Significant air escapes around the perimeter of the faceplate despite applying clamp force and a bit of dynamat.

Sounds great though! 18 yo kid loved it! Lots of tight bass and this amp puts out good sound with the right power/amps feeding it. Sorry not an audiophile so not testing results to share.

Here you go:

Main 1/2hp Pump
I initially had a Zoeller main pump which lasted for about 8 years until the "built-in" float switch died. I could have bought a new switch for it but the pump itself was old and I didn't want to risk it. I read reviews for the new Zoellers, Rigids, and Waynes and decided on the Wayne pump.

Backup Unit
I originally had a Watchdog unit which was 7 yrs old... I went with the Wayne backup based off of Amazon reviews when compared to others. The system includes a great backup pump compared to the crappy Watchdog unit.

Battery
Sorry, the battery was $139 shipped (not $100 as I mentioned). It's a sealed battery as well = no maintenance.

High Water Alarm I bought this inexpensive water sensor which comes with a ~6ft wire sensor

Check Valve: I also stayed away from the metal check valves because my old Zoeller check valve literally rusted apart from what I guess was from the humidity (my sump pump is located in a narrow closet). I went with a fully plastic/rubber one that my house flipping friend got from a plumbing supply store. I have the battery unit outside the closet because of this humidity build up.

Question
Which dedicated float switch are you using? One with a "rod"? Do you plan on using zip ties to hold the switch in the up/on position on your new pump?

Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.

I gotchu fam:

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-Alkaline-Batteries-Recloseable-Package/dp/B004SCA15K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=batteries+in+bulk&qid=1567711219&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Ok but seriously, it sounds like you're going on the wrong kinds of dates if you have get super dolled up just to go eat dinner. I'd highly suggest you stick to more casual things like coffee or bowling if you're just starting to get to know someone. Save those special fancy dates for guys that you're actually going somewhere with.

I’m not an electronics expert, but I’m pretty sure you can use a pretty small 12V batter for basic fish finders. Do some research into something like this... ExpertPower EXP12120 12 Volt 12 Amp Rechargeable battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lkFKBbP4QQ48T

Here are some random thoughts I had. I attended my first burn this past summer, and I flew there from Alabama.

1. Those rental bike places sell out really fast. If you plan on renting one, you should start making phone calls six or seven weeks ahead of the burn. Personally, I wanted to actually prepare my bike for the burn, so I bought a cheap used one in Alabama, and shipped it to my friends who drove the RV from the west coast. This was actually cheaper than flying with a bike as checked luggage, which has tripled in price in the past ten years. I say, support your local bike co-op, and you will also get to lubricate your chain, and triple check all the parts etc. At the end of the burn, there are literally dozens of places to donate your bike so you don't have to travel back with it.
   
   
2. Building your costume is a year long hobby. You can't start too early. Visit thrift stores and peruse the internet and setup your outfit early. Fill up your Camelback, and gather all your essentials, then try riding your bike around. You want to find any weaknesses before you leave civilization.
   
   
3. You can't have too many bike lights. Do not buy expensive commuter lights. A forward facing headlight is good, but the nicer ones will just blind other bikers. They are designed for cars to see you. There is enough ambient light generally to see ahead of you, so you should focus your efforts on cool led blinkers. Last summer, I brought a pack of 25 batteries for these lights : http://www.amazon.com/CR2016-Lithium-Button-Cell-Batteries/dp/B002BZOMYM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1383073869&sr=8-4&keywords=cr2016. Basically every LED blinker uses this kind of battery, and if you buy them from a Walgreens, they cost like 5$ each. You can buy 25 from Amazon for 7$ with that link. Even if your blinker uses the larger cr2032, you can stack 2 of the 2016s and it works. You can also trade fresh batteries for stuff you need.
   
   Those are just my random thoughts.

Yeah, I use the Blackube AA ( https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07J9PQ1CN ), they are good too. Easy and fast to charge (usb), and plenty of power.

I'm impressed by the capacity of the JUGEE, I wonders if it is not a little exaggerated.

Edit: Ah gotcha! It's 3000mWh not mAh (3000mWh == 2000mAh at 1.5V). That's why :)

not sure what the recharge rate is but i would imagine unless your directly tethering to the terminals then you would be limited to the fuse amperage, typically like 15 amps on a cigarette plug i think?


back on the main topic, maybe something in this article might help? https://teslatap.com/articles/12-volt-battery-compendium/ they dont mention exact rates that i saw but it says "

>The Gen 2 DC-DC converter in the refreshed Model S accepts 220 to 430 VDC at 15 amps, and outputs 9 to 16 VDC. When outputting 12 VDC, it can deliver about 200 amps.
>
>The Model 3 integrates the charger and the DC-DC converter into a single package, the PCS (Power Conversion System)

​

IMHO i would just invest in one of those Portable power stations from the likes of Jackery, Anker or Goal Zero especially seeing as how the replacement battery is going for about $500 on Amazon.

I know -- rechargeable nimh batteries are the norm. The capacity is somewhat high, but not at all hard to come by.

Any big box store will at least have 2000 mAh batteries in the standard stock. From well known brands like Duracell.

Aside from all that, your original statement was false:

> The MFLB has a special battery that puts the positive and negative terminals right next to each other

It isn't special. It is an unwrapped rechargeable AA. Any rechargeable nimh battery is negative on the outer shell, the plaster wrapper is meant to insulate them.

I am pretty sure they are still using eneloops, which are relatively high capacity.

But then again plain old Duracell rechargeables are just rebranded eneloops, so that high capacity doesn't make them particularly unique or special or whatever.

All this and more is covered in my DIY MFLB guide if anyone needs some background info.

I don't like the starving student deal.

Here's what I'd buy right now if all my gear were suddenly gone and I had to get new lighting

• $16.50: This light stand
  
• $9.50: These batteries for your flash, also helpful to bring you to the $25 free shipping limit
  
• $6.50: This swivel to top off the light stand, free shipping as well
  
• $17: This umbrella is nice, big, and cheap. Sadly charges shipping
  
• $29: The best of the low quality flash triggers. I hear they're very reliable despite being made by an obscure Chinese company. If you want you could save here by going optical. I've linked to Nikon because I use Nikon.
  
• $46: YN460-II full manual flash. Extremely cheap, but it gets the job done and has a decent amount of power. If you need the "starving student" flash, this is it.
  
  Total now is only around $125 and that's including the batteries and some decent flash triggers. Also, obviously all of this gear is reusable when you go better later on. Obviously I didn't link to gaffer tape or gels, but those are cheap and easy to find.
  
  p.s.: I own everything I just linked to you except the RF-602. I plan on buying that next.

Sure.

• Inverter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007NOUBA/
  
  
• 2 x 75Ah batteries - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZMVI46/
  
  
• Double battery box - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJ2MBRD/
  
  
• 200amp ANL fuse & fuse holder - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079ZNGCDX/
  
  
• Wiring - 1 pair of 4AWG 1ft & 1 pair of 4AWG 3ft - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071H7D7SM/
  
  
• platform stool to keep equipment safely off the ground - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KDDS51/
  
  Should be about $750 for lots of runtime, and compatible with any pump that uses 120VAC. The only open question I have is whether the eyeletts on the battery terminals are 3/8" or 5/16" so I know which wiring set to buy. I emailed the company and waiting for a response.
  
  I used this guide to figure out what I wanted to do - https://www.tripplite.com/support/how-to-select-and-install-inverter-charger-for-sump-pump
  
  EDIT: wow thanks for the gold, kind Internet stranger!

It's definitely your batteries. You can buy 2 new ones for $10+shipping from MFLB, but any rechargeable over 2200-2400 mAh will work. I bought my box before they came out with the Glyph batteries, the ones that came with mine lasted about a year and a half of daily use before I broke down and bought some 2200 mAh Duracells from Wal-Mart. They lasted maybe 6-8 months each but were shitty quality, I just wanted to vape again. I bought 2 glyphs and they were better than the original ones had ever been, I lost one but the other is still going strong after almost a year in rotation with the Duracells.

I've never used them, but these were the standard recommendation before the glyphs came out. I think they're comparable and cheaper. But now I have a power adapter which I got heavily marked down (less than $50) during Black Friday sales and it has absolutely been worth it, to the point where I bring it with me when I go out and find a discreet outlet rather than relying on batteries. I think it's overpriced at full retail but I understand why they charge so much, just glad I got one before they start cracking down on resellers. I've spent maybe $160 all told on my box, PA, and the replacement batteries, and the MFLB has still saved me money (I think) on weed.

My literal EDC. eCommerce by day. Husband, Father, Entrepreneur, programmer, and tech sponge by night.

Me like IPA's and API's.

From left to right, top to bottom. Here it is wrapped up.

1. Classic Pro Tech Toolkit: $59.95
   
   
2. Speedstick De.O.De: $4.63
   
   
3. Python Pocket Reference: gitItFree
   
   
4. Mini BlueTooth Keyboard with Mouse: $9.49
   
   
5. Secure Pro Credit Card Lock Pick Set: [$9.99] (http://www.budk.com/Secure-Pro-Credit-Card-Lock-Pick-Set-17408)
   
   
6. Samsung Galaxy Ace: $49.99
   
   
7. ProCase Travel Gear Organizer: $14.99
   
   
8. OTG cables, 3 inch Micro USB, Wifi & Bluetooth Dongles: -$5
   
   
9. Duracell Procell AA/AAA: ~$10
   
   
10. Memo Pad and Pen.
    
    
11. Disposable 8GB JumpDrive (Don't recommend), Kingston Digital 16GB, Kingston MobileLite g4 2in1 Adapter
    
    
12. Kingwin SATA to USB3 Adapter: $10+
    
    
13. Minimalist Wire Stripper: $?, found on rando clearance rack
    
    
14. NodeMCU: ~$5
    
    
15. Mini breadboards, Buck/Boost Converters, Serial to UART, HC-05, buck w/display, AA battery holder: <$5/each
    
    
16. Micro/SD Card aluminum case: $5.80
    
    
17. 2x32GB-U1 speed Micro SD Cards, etc... $15.99
    
    
18. aTTiny85 Digispark USB's: $1.10
    
19. Slim Swiss army wallet/money clip w/ $1USD: $16.99
    
    
20. Uline 2200mAh Credit Card Charging Kit: $?
    
    
21. Raspi Zero: $5
    
22. Keyes
    
    
23. Customized NanoPiNeoAir: $17.99

Dude it's like electricity and stuff. When you have a current carrying conductor, there's resistance to flow which generates heat (used to vaporize the goo). When there's not enough of that resistance, the current goes out of control and can make that battery dun explode.

So, for vape stuff, make sure you use a sufficient gage and quantity to ensure that the resistance (in ohms) of the coils is high enough to prevent battery explosion. You can do this with a very cheap tester into which your mouth piece screws.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/510-808-Resistance-Reader-Meter/dp/B00KY45S3Q

Good luck!

I've replaced the battery twice, once before starting the JMT and another time before a motorcycle tour up to Alaska. I've never seen the battery life indicator come up and I'd always use it in 5 minute tracking. I don't actually know how long the battery last, but if I'd have to guess, about a year with heavy use. You have to use lithium AAA's though. They maintain their voltage for the life of the device.

>Though, won't help me much against the griz and lions, but maybe if I break something lol...

Ha! I hear you. I was on a bike when I encountered a grizzly and her cubs and totally felt safe. The mountain lion was on a trail and staring right at me. That was actually actually concerning. The tracking is nice just in case they needed to find the body. I typically have people look at the tracking page sporadically and they know what to do if they see I haven't moved for too long.

• processing can remove some CA. Let's say half.
  
• kit lenses definitely work. There are diminishing returns buying the top of the line lenses. All lenses work better stopped down a bit, so when you are starting with f/5.6 you start to lose a lot of light. My favorite lens is my Canon 200mm f/2.8L prime, that I shoot at f/4 when I have time and want sharpness. I would get a PoleMaster before I got expensive glass.
  
• buy a Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) battery. They don't leak like the kind with caps you can remove to add electrolyte. I think all SLA batteries are "Deep Cycle" style battery.
  
• How strong are you? I started with a 33Ah battery, it wasn't enough when my laptop started needing 4A to charge. So I switched to a 75Ah 50 pounder like this.
  
• I got the HEQ5 Synscan GPS that came with a hand controller ... with a choice of 9 different rates at which you can slew the scope.
  
  

AA, but you can get rechargeable AAs for pretty cheap anyway.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FJBDVIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FoOVCbD38BTT4?th=1&psc=1

If you have old incandescent Maglites, you can get LED bulb upgrades for them. But Maglite also makes LED flashlights. (Caution, affiliate links.) Their latest generation is actually pretty good. Somewhere on youtube is a video of a guy dropping rocks and stuff on a 3rd gen model and it never stops glowing. If you like the Maglite shape and weight they are the only^ people making decent D-cell flashlights.

Old or new Maglite, I would recommend getting NiMH batteries for them. Those batteries may look expensive but a single D cell holds as much power as a four pack of Eneloops, so they are actually a good deal.

^ Fenix used to have several but that's been scaled back to the TK50 and TK60. Both sell for around $100.

These batteries with this charger brings the MFLB to life and allows you to do much more efficient vaping. I know you may be thinking, "jeez, $50 for a charger," this charger does wonders even for your older stock MFLB batteries. It's a huge upgrade if you're still using the stock charger and batteries. Also these batteries are great for long trips away from your charger.

I have the same Jeep in red for my son. If you’d like to add a dual battery setup, this 12AH battery fits perfectly in the empty compartment on the left side under the hood. You can wire it in parallel with the existing battery for many many hours of fun.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Nice save. 👈😎👈

How about a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCGH26Q/

Those look like 12V ~12Ah lead acid batteries, arranged in series for 48V total voltage.

You could buy replacements like this one (measure yours to make sure it's close in dimensions first).

Or you could replace it with a Li-Ion battery pack like this 48V 10Ah model.

As far as range with either of those options I would estimate around 15-20 miles at a speed of ~20mph on flat ground, large hills will reduce it a fairly large amount.

Check out these Tenergy LSD NiMHs. Lots of guys run these in modified Mags that require a very high current draw. With the LED that comes stock in your Mag, you might actually get better run time from the Alkalines but if you ever decided to upgrade the emitter or just want the option of rechargeables, these Tenergy cells are top notch.

Cheers

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Lithium-Photo-Batteries-6-Pack/dp/B0036QL1JY

I use these for my original Arlo cameras still going strong. The Energizer batteries last longest by far that I have found. None of the rechargeable will last as long.

You have to buy them. There are different ways to buy them, you can either do so online HERE or go to a store, and get NiMh batteries, the stronger the better.. Mine are 2700 mah power, gets me to an 8 easy. :)

Ninja Edit: When you do buy your batteries, strip them ie. take off the surrounding sticker.

I second this. Once I switched form 1.2v NiMH rechargeable batteries to 1.5v Lithium-Ion batteries my controller fly away issues were resolved with my Odyssey+ controllers. I also make sure I'm always in good lighting. But the battery change solved my issue more than anything else.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCGH26Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Eveready 1212 (aaa carbon zinc super heavy duty, 4 pack, 9 bucks) are typically 7.4 grams.

The Energizer L92 (aaa lithium battery, 4 pack, 9 bucks) has a typical weight of 7.6g, and here's an 8 pack for 12 bucks. The L91 (aa battery) weighs 14.5 grams.

^(It also keeps going and going and going and ...)

I use amazon basic batteries. iirc they're just rebranded Eneloops batteries and those are pretty much the go to. I opted for the high capacity varation as they're 2400mAh instead of 2000mAh like the standard version. It's only like a dollar more for the added capacity so it seemed worth it to me

I got this bundle. Got an 8 pack because I wanted 2 batteries for my touch controllers and 2 for my xbox controller while the other 4 would be charged and ready to be swapped in when the batteries in either controller died https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FJBDVIM/

I used to use Eneloop batteries, but I just got these Lithium-Ion 1.5V batteries - they work great and don't report low battery. They have a 4-in-1 charger cable with ports built into the batteries and take 90 minutes to charge.

Have this mouse and love it. Pro-tip: buy lithium AAA batteries and use a single one with a AAA to AA adapter. Makes the mouse <100g weight; amazing for those of us with really low dpi.

Specifically I use this combination and get 100 hours + playtime on a single battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Count/dp/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=RL8TO6P0PCXX&keywords=aaa%2Blithium%2Bbatteries&qid=1566184348&s=gateway&sprefix=aaa%2Blithium%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-3&th=1


https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aaa+to+aa+converter&qid=1566184360&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Those all-in-one power setups always seem kind of expensive to me, for what you are getting. They are all about convenience. You could build your own system for a little cheaper. The storage and output are incredibly low, I thought maybe there was a typo, but it seems to just be a portable phone charger which is what you are looking for.

Here's a tiny 12ah battery, charge controller, and you can get a small inverter. You can beef up these components, or just expand as you go.

​

Honestly, I think a deep cycle yellow top Optima battery would serve you better. You could charge your stuff, and have a reliable starting battery. No fuss, no gizmos.

title says 2450 mah, description says 2650

they're the highest mAh i can find for duracell. their site's links are dead right now so i can't verify.

2450s would be "OK", 2650 would be good, but that's only if they truly are the rating they say they are. worth a shot, i guess ... if your coupons work on amazon. one review i read (somewhere), claims they are rebranded eneloops, so i'd bet they're 2450, which are what MFLBs were once shipped with. also read somewhere that they could be found at walmart.

I posted this before, handy at night if doing time lapse, astro etc, frees up both hands! And it's very bright, throw in some extra batteries because cheap.

Do you mean this one? I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to use a lithium 12V battery because they can't handle being deep-cycled.

Highest capacity and best quality rechargeable I've ever found here.

That's the $100K question.

The easiest way is to order bulk AA batteries. Change them out after each use. For some, this is not financially possible, especially in a school, but it's the most reliable way. I'd do this, then offer the "gently used" batteries to the rest of the school to use (put them in a box in the teacher's lounge, with a sign that they are used, and to not use them in life saving/dependent equipment).

Using rechargeable batteries have their benefits and drawbacks. Benefits are, pull them out of the charger, and you're good to go. You don't have to keep buying batteries. Drawbacks are that they cost more. When one starts failing, it can be tedious to figure out which one is failing (and this usually happens once you get all the mics loaded with batteries, and are doing your sound check). You have to always make sure they get charged, which in some instances, is a big pain in the rear. Some mics do not do well with rechargeable batteries. My experience has been they work well, but in the long run, can be more time consuming and expensive (my own experience, not to be taken as the bottom line).

If you want to go full retard, grab a Fenix TK70 while you still can. They have been discontinued by Fenix, but you can still get them new. At Amazon.com, they are about $210.

Goinggear.com has a garage sale where they are currently selling 2 at $120 each. This is a steal for this light. I have one and my friends refer to it as my Tactical Plunger, because it is so massive and has the shape of a plunger. It has a massive head, takes 4 D cell batteries, outshines almost every light on the planet in the distance category, and is just fantastic in every way. To take full advantage of it, you have to use NiMH D cells. This means that you will have to invest in rechargeable D cells and a battery charger. It can run off regular D cells, but they will drain quickly and it will not stay on turbo mode due to the high drain that alkaline D cells simply cannot handle. If you decide to go this route, here is the link for the $120 sale, as well as links to the batteries and charger you should buy for it.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?284550-GoingGear-com-Garage-Sale-2013

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Centura-Self-Discharge-LSD-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B0041TEHMS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375876288&sr=8-1&keywords=tenergy+centura+d

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-T-9688-Universal-Battery-Charger/dp/B002FKNPBY/ref=pd_sim_e_5

Make sure you get low self discharge NiMH D cells like the ones I linked you. They have less capacity, but they can sit for years and only lose a small amount of their charge. While the regular NiMH D cells have 10000 mAh capacity vs 8000 mAh in the low self discharge variant, you will regret buying the regular ones because they lose their charge VERY quickly....like you will have to recharge them every week even if you don't use the light.

If you do not want to spend this kind of money, I would go with srs2000's recommendation of the Defiant ArmorMax 3D Tactical Flashlight posted in this thread. They are much better than Maglites in my opinion and are also much brighter.

Any with a 1.5 voltage. Got these when it was 12.99, and they work way better than the 1.2 V's I use to use. It is worth it the get a set of 4 1.5v than to get 8 1.2v

https://www.amazon.com/TENAVOLTS-Rechargeable-Batteries-Constant-Electrical/dp/B07MCGH26Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=1.5%2Bv%2Brechargeable%2Baa&qid=1573005727&sprefix=1.5%2Bv%2Bre&sr=8-17&th=1&psc=1

Indeed!

Heck, decent recyclables are almost the same price than some of the "premium" non-rechargables you find in stores these days. In 8 packs from Amazon:


$2.40 each, rechargeable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSN5I

$2.20 each, rechargeable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZV9WTM/

$1.12 each, non-rec: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RSHBSHT/

$1.60 each, non-rec: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EAKP8S0/


Yeesh... (And in physical stores, the prices are almost the same as the rechargeable.)

And a good simple charger is only $25... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G4T230U/ ...I haven't thought about battery life in a long time. And I just keep 4 extra of AA and AAA than I need for everything in the house so I can always swap out, and then plug-in the charger when its full of dead batteries. Super simple, and I'm never waiting on a charge.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LWMZ5M?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

These are the ones I ordered. LSD, and come in a case, good enough for me! Same performance as glyphs for me.

Eneloops are Panasonic's brand name for their NiMH cells (much like Kleenex to facial tissue). Every time I see someone review NiMH cells, Eneloops come out on top. Panasonic also sells cells to Amazon and Ikea who put their own label on them.

It also helps that they're $17 for 4 with a charger on Amazon. That said, since I think you need 6 cells, here's the Amazon rewrap version with 8 cells and a charger for $33.

​

If you want to retain stock firing rate, I'd stick with the stock spring. Their improved current capabilities will make the system snappier, but they're probably not powerful enough to run a 6 kg spring at stock ROF.

If you can grab Glyph batteries then go for it.
Otherwise read this to understand the consequences of your choices, and grab something in this range:
Powerex 2700mAh
Sanyo Eneloop XX 2500mAh
Imedion 2400mAh

They are well known by the MFLB community and you can't go wrong with these!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CXNY3G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&redirect=true

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJXB5E/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJ45L6/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BZOMYM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KBEH1W/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

ride safe

Also considering getting one of these: 12V Lithium Battery for Tesla Model 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4SCB1Y

A bit expensive. But I want lithium everywhere! :-)

Edit: Site for the battery as it’s less “expensive” there: https://www.ohmmu.com/product-page/12v-lithium-battery-for-tesla-model-3

> As for the value, lithiums are only $1.50 more than alkalines in that car (3x.50)

Yeah, if you buy overpriced Energizers.
Even Duracell pro cell's are cheaper!
https://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Procell-AA-Pack-PC1500BKD09/dp/B00009V2QX/ref=sr_1_10_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1537495374&sr=1-10&keywords=aa+batteries


No, i wont factor in a charger, that would be stupid. If you would compare like that no one should ever buy rechargeable batteries.

I bought a 100 pack of AA batteries off Amazon for cheap. They're not the best but last for many hours and carrying a backup set isn't a big deal.

Not sure if you can get the same deal where you are.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-Super-Alkaline-Batteries-100-Count/dp/B004SCA15K/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496029767&sr=8-2&keywords=AA+batteries+bulk

For the price these are worth buying just for random shit that needs AA batteries. I've used the shit out of them in XBox controllers and TV remotes.

I got mine on Amazon like most people I assume. Everyone around here usually reccommends 2700s (nullvader linked to them), I did too for a while. But after a few months, they lose their charge if you don't use them for a few days.

Yesterday I found the batteries the box comes with, 4/$14. They're not as powerful but they're quite strong and they're low self-discharge, so you don't have to use them right after charging. Leave a few charged and they should be mostly full for a few months. Link!

get some 2700mah or 2400 batteries. there cheap on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MHRAA4-2700mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00A9KTPY8

http://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MHRAAI4-Imedion-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003LWMZ5M

I bought a 12v 12ah battery for my daughters jeep. I got mine at Frys electronics because I had bought her jeep at a garage sale and she and I were both too excited to wait but you can get them on Amazon too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ka-mxbEQ3Q988
I put a 30 amp fuse inline after I cut the factory plug off also. Next project is to wire a couple up to try out 18-24 volts to see what kind of speeds we can get out of it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009V2QX/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416609489&sr=8-1 batterys for this

Are these it?

Left to Right:

Imedion AA 2400mAh NiMH Batteries

Magic Flight Launch Box Kit

Cali Pollen Crusher -Kief Pucks! (Came with grinder)

Da Buddha Desktop Vaporizer

Sharpstone Herb Grinder

And these are just my vaporizers :D

Have any of you tried putting a 14500 with resistors in the controller out of curiosity?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MCGH26Q/ref=psdcmw_389577011_t1_B019O4WISY?th=1&psc=1

They cost a little more than eneloop but seem to hold higher charge and are light.

Has to be nimh batteries.

Edit: I bought these and they work amazingly Powerex MHRAAI4 Imedion AA 2400mAh 4-Pack Rechargeable Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LWMZ5M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_EVDbub1Q4VEAK

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share is the battery I chose and this is the controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDCH26N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Oug2CbTNATECY

I was wondering if this is a good price

I actually bought these thinking they would work. http://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MHRAAI4-Imedion-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003LWMZ5M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409947715&sr=8-2&keywords=mflb+battery

If your light was designed to take a li-ion cell, you could put a 10440 in there and get a little more brightness (and a lot more heat), but it's not designed for that. Don't try it, you'll likely ruin the electronics of your light.

A brand new lithium primary (non-rechargeable, not to be confused with li-ion) such as the Energizer Ultimate Lithium when brand new, are about 1.8v. So with a brand new one of these, you'll get a tad more brightness, but I doubt you would be able to notice the difference. The pro's of lithium primaries is they last longer than alkaline or NiMH, don't leak (generally only alkalines leak), are much lighter and work better than anything else in the cold...but they are quite expensive. NiMH are usually preferred because of being rechargeable, which makes them really cheap to use and provide decent run time (especially the ones I linked for you). The main downside of NiMH is you'll need a one-time purchase of a charger, such as the EBL 907.

I went through 3 different brands of induction chargers. They all wear the batteries out very fast, and they all have intermittent problems with stopping/starting charging. They also drain insanely fast. Way faster than their man ratings would indicate that they should.

From my personal experiences, I've decided that induction charging is just not "there yet" at these low price points.

Get yourself some name brand rechargeable batteries, and charge them in a wall charger.

You can usually get 4 batteries and a charger form duracell for about $20, and then get 4 packs of batteries themselves for $10 - $15.

The benefit here is that once you get about 20 batteries in your home, you'll never need to buy batteries again (or at least for, say, another 10 years or so, tip they wear out)

NINJA EDIT:

4 pack of batteries, with charger on Amazon.com

4 pack of batteries, by themselves on Amazon.com

You can get other brand low self discharge NiMH batteries in larger sizes: http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Centura-Self-Discharge-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B0041TEHMS

No

60 Watt Panel

Charge Controller

Battery

Light

12v Cig Adapter

This is a good detailed review that shows you how the Tenavolts work, but there are some mistakes so read the comments:

• Review & Teardown: Tenavolts AA Size 1.5V Li-ion battery : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Correct me if I'm wrong, but last I checked the 30% discount applies to all of the Tenavolts packages:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: TENAVOLTS Rechargeable AA Battery Charger with 4 Counts Lithium 2775 mWh AA Rechargeable Batteries: Home Audio & Theater
  
• AmazonSmile: TENAVOLTS Rechargeable Lithium/Li-ion Batteries, AA Rechargeable Batteries, Constant Output at 1.5V, Quick Charge Less Than 2 Hours, 2775 mWh Electrical core Power- 4 Count …: Industrial & Scientific
  
• AmazonSmile: TENAVOLTS First Generation Rechargeable Lithium/Li-ion Batteries, AA Rechargeable Batteries, Micro USB Charger Included, Constant Output at 1.5V,Quick Charge,2775 mWh Electrical core Power- 2 Count: Home Audio & Theater
  
  That last one is especially handy if you travel with AA batteries.