(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best powersports accessories

For taller bars, it looks like your year has regular clip-ons, so you should be able to use any bars that are the diameter of your forks. I did a 4500 mile/10 day trip on my 2014 and never had any wrist issues, just a sore butt.

This is the tank bag I use and I have no complaints. I just keep jamming more stuff in it and it seems like there's always room for one more thing. If you're worried about keeping your tank paint in good condition, wax it before you leave, then make sure you don't have any dirt/debris on the bike or the bag when you put it on. It stays planted pretty well on my 2014 VFR, but on my CBR250R it slides around a lot because of the narrow tank, the magnets don't hold very well. I'm guessing your bike has a bigger tank, so a flatter top surface, so it shouldn't be an issue. Just keep it clean and don't slide it around, lift it up if you want to re-position.

RAM mounts are probably the most popular for mounting the phone on the bars, or else you can put your phone in the tank bag. To charge your phone, you can buy one of these, it plugs into the SAE lead from your batter tender pigtail, and converts it to a USB-C port. From there, just plug in a USB-C -to-your-phone's-port cable.

In-helmet bluetooth - Sena 20S or Cardo Packtalk are top of the line, like $250 but they have the best features and they're pretty much guaranteed to work and have good battery life. This is a cheaper option that will likely work nearly as well as the premium brands. I haven't used any of the above, so I can't attest to their quality, but I've heard the latter is worth the savings, although if you're not worried about money, the Sena is the better option.

Rain gear - I wear these pants and this jacket. They're 3 season, warm weather, with a removable waterproof liner. With the liner in, it's comfortable wearing just a T-shirt underneath in the upper 60s. Upper 70s I'll generally take the liner out. Lower temperatures, I wear a long underwear/thermal base layer that's like $10 Fruit of the Loom stuff that works pretty well. The biggest issue with this stuff is that because it's made for warmer weather, it's breathable, which doesn't work out well in cold weather. Given your schedule, this stuff would be fine for the weather. Another option for rain gear is to just have a cheap one piece plastic oversuit/rain coat type thing. Basically a big plastic bag.

For bike security, if you're worried about it, get a chain and hook up to a post. Also, get a cover for the bike. Someone might see a bike and think it's worth stealing, but if they see a blob, they're probably not going to walk over and lift up the cover to see what's under it. If you really want to be sneaky, throw some mud on the cover and put duct tape patches on it to make it look ratty.

Helpful apps - Google Maps/Apple Maps, and a way to listen to music if you're going to be on the freeway a lot.

Miscellaneous:

• Earplugs/plugfones,
  
  
• Basic tools (metric wrenches, allen wrenches, whatever you need to adjust your chain tension, multitool such as a Leatherman Surge or Wingman)
  
  
• Something to secure loose parts on your bike if something breaks, whether you prefer zip ties, bailing wire, rope, paracord, velcro, whatever you want, just have something that you can strap stuff down with. I have about a dozen 12" zip ties and a $7 roll of velcro that's like 35 feet long.
  
  
• Tire puncture kit, probably also a tire pressure gauge
  
  
• Waterproof luggage. My personal experience says that hard shell luggage is more convenient for accessing during the day, and a waterproof soft shell bag is good for your stuff you won't need unless you're stopped for the night - clothes, toiletries, maybe a laptop, charging cables, etc.
  
  
• Kickstand pad for that one time you park in the grass and realize your kickstand is sinking in from a 500lb bike leaning on it. You can just use a piece of wood or something for this obviously, it's just nice to have something ready for it so you're not awkwardly standing there with your bike waiting for someone to grab you a rock or chunk of asphalt.
  
  
• Written directions, major road names. Electronics these days are pretty much foolproof, but once in a blue moon, you might find yourself somewhere you don't have GPS service or a data connection for your phone. You'll be hundreds of miles from anywhere you know, it's good to have a fallback plan, and it only takes a few minutes.
  
  
• Make sure you can confidently put the bike on the centerstand. You might not be able to do it with luggage, that's fine, but you should be able to do it with the bike unladen. This makes roadside maintenance or hotel parking lot chain tensioning/lubing way easier.
  
  
• Something to write with and write on. I keep a little notebook and pen in my tank bag.
  
  
• Emergency cash, even if you plan on paying for everything with a credit/debit card
  
  
• Emergency credit/debit card, even if you plan on paying for everything with cash
  
  
• Let your bank or credit card company know what states you'll be in, so your card doesn't get denied for suspected fraud when you need an emergency tow
  
  
• Speaking of emergency tow, AAA or AMA membership with roadside assistance
  
  Be prepared for every type of weather that can happen in the regions you'll be passing through, even if it normally doesn't happen there in the time of year. I got snowed on in Texas after leaving Wisconsin, of all places, in late April. Have a plan in case your bike breaks down, or your tire blows, or you chain breaks, or anything goes wrong. A lot of people also recommend hydration systems, e.g. Camelbak backpacks with a straw that goes into your helmet. On my road trip, I was basically subsisting on beef jerky, trail mix, and powerade when I stopped for gas. If you're making a more leisurely trip, there's no reason not to eat real food.

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

• Chain
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/RK-520-GXW-XW-Ring-Chain/dp/B002OMSCWK/ $95
    
• Front Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Sprocket-Suzuki-1999-2008/dp/B07BQJS1J4 $45
    
• Rear Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Steel-Rear-Sprocket/dp/B00M9M80UE $50
    
• Rivet Kit
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Y493A $100
    
    

1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.
   
   
2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.
   
   Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.

So the hitch that I found sits comfortably behind the number and actually affects the exit angle very little if at all. I'll also be getting a 1 1/4 to 2 inch adapter that is technically only meant for class II hitches, but for only holding a spare tire, it will be fine. It's also fine for holding a bike rack or something. I'll edit this comment when I'm at my computer and show you what I'm getting

EDIT:

1. This is the hitch that I will be using. If you look at the pictures, it seems very discrete without much taken away from exit angle.
   
   
2. This is the best one that I can find for your car. There aren't any pictures form reviews, but it sounds like in the comments that it is also discrete, although there's no guarantee. If that one doesn't work, something custom is probably your only option.
   
   
3. This is the adapter that you can use. Just remember that as a general rule of thumb, your towing capacity is cut in half if you use one of these, just as a safety precaution. Towing with an adapter also depends on how strong the pin is that you're using to hold it into the base hitch.
   
   
4. This is the tire holder that I am probably going to get. It seems a little short, but I measured on my car and it should be alright. If it is way too short, you can get a hitch riser like this
   
   
5. THIS is the tire carrier that I want, because it is very very strong and the cheaper one folds to the side, which is really nice. I don't know if I'll be able to afford it, though, so I'll see
   If all this metal that's bolted to your car is rattling around way too much because of the couple millimeters of play in the hitches, pick yourself up a couple of these and it's problem solved.
   
   Hope this helps! If you want to know anything else, let me know
   
   
   Edit 2: formatting

Rain gear

Hydrate and trail mix

A throttle lock

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cruise-Motorcycle-Throttle-Control/dp/B00TIEATVY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control&qid=1566491759&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag

A dry sack

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Pak-Waterproof-Dry-Bag/dp/B01GZCUDC6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dry+sack&qid=1566491799&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEdHN1JXMjc3S1NUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY4ODExMjFEUTQxSEFXUU5OQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE1MTQwMTFaNUFWOVBPVUs2RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Attach it with Rok Straps

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rok+straps&qid=1566491879&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1566492644&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.myrouteapp.com/routelab is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.

Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.

There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.

https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Outdoor-Camping-Kerosene-Alcohol/dp/B0116HTH18/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+bottle&qid=1566492147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUTdCWU8yVU9JU1hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwNjQ5MlVRUEdBRjBGMDFEUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ2MDA3MVVQNjFHVk9UWDJXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Motrin on the regular

Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.

Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.

Battery Brick

https://www.amazon.com/20000mAH-Portable-Comkes-External-Smartphone/dp/B07F2YPBD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+brick&qid=1566492328&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Foldable-PowerPort-Samsung/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+charger+multiport&qid=1566492374&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.

Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.

Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.

Get a balaclava.

Ear plugs!!!!

My YBR has much the same issue. In the warmer months, she would start on the button in a fraction of a second. I found when we had a few rainy nights and the damp on the bike chilled the engine components, she would take between 1-2 seconds to turn over and even then, the smell from the automatic choke wasn't pleasant - it was definitely compensating for being a cold start. This obviously requires more juice from the battery as well, so the cold and the (relatively) small battery combined made it difficult.

I got me a rather expensive bike cover online to help insulate and protect the bike from the elements as it got further into winter. I didn't want her rusting or getting wet - I'm quite keen to keep the YBR - so it seemed a good investment. Unless it's a silly cold night, the bike now starts on the button every time in that same fraction of a second that was in the summer. It also protects the various parts against the elements which I would always recommend.

So that helps for sure. Get a cheaper cover if you don't want to fork out the £££ for the StormEx, but a lined/insulated cover definitely helps in the early mornings.

Going back to the battery needing extra oomph to cold start, riding 15 minutes isn't really enough to boost that battery charge. You need to get the revs nice and high and warm that engine up. You will put more energy back into the battery that way and I think that combined with a cover will sort you out. Certainly did for me. If you're daily commute is always going to be 15 minutes then take the bike out later in the day when it's not so cold and give it a run up a ring road or something, get those pistons working.

The extra hastle of putting an insulated cover on every night/taking it off every morning is definitely worth it.

Protip - the StormEx (if you are tempted) is one hefty bugger of fabric, so be careful when pulling it over number plates, wingmirrors, indicators etc!

Edit: Just realized you already have a cover and you live in Cardiff. I use my cover all the time, even if the bike is already wet. It keeps it drier than if you wouldn't and leaving rainwater on the bike overnight to chill the components is not good, especially on such a small machine. My covers purpose isn't so much to keep the rain off, but keep it a bit more insulated than if it were out in the open. I live over the bridge in Bristol so conditions are very similar for you and I.

please STOP perpetuating that stupid myth about smartphones not being able to route or do tracks when you are out of cell coverage. Iphones and Androids can download maps ahead of time (just like with your stand alone GPS) which allow you to continue to use it when you are well OUTSIDE of cell coverage. I have used my cell phone as a GPS for on and off road for over 3 yrs now without fail (and I didn't spend an extra $600 to do it). Even a decent Garmin GPS will set you back at least $400 (I don't count the 60, 62, 76 and variants because their screens are too damn small to be effective). I also stream music to my Sena SMH10r . There are a plethura of sites that help you to easily set this up. For mostly road use, I recommend a cheap GPS or use your smartphone but if you do moderate off road, I would recommend something with a hardier plug which is what tends to be the problem (I don't mind so much since it's actually a rather easy fix on my Galaxy S4 were it to be damaged).

Tents.... do not buy too cheap on this. I have tried a lot of tents and finally settled on the Ledge Sports Recluse here . It is a three man but really just comfortable enough for two mostly, roomy with a loft and packs really small with poles that are less than a foot long collapsed (easy to fit in panniers and bags).

Personally I would make sure you find something really comfortable to sleep on. I use a blow up mattress and a pump that plugs that goes into my motorcycle to fill it up. Most the pads you see are overpriced/expensive and crap on your back or for side sleepers. If you get a hole that you can't fix, how hard is to find a WalMart or a Target to buy a new one for around 20 to 50 bucks depending on the size you want. I prefer a queen size, great for added weight and so damn comfortable. If my old Coleman Quickbed ever dies, I will be picking up the Coleman Durarest here.

I take my phone, my Nexus 7 with 4G and my small laptop with me everywhere. I have a USB Stick chock full of reading material, music and movies....never get bored and when I want to relax and gaze at the stars, only a power button stands in my way.

Phones can get you into trouble. My buddy called me one night when I was out, this was real late, like around 11 pm. He made a joke about having a soundboard that does bear, wolf or cougar sounds and walking around outside scaring people. I checked the net and found some bear sounds that I downloaded and we joked about it. I went to sleep later after having a number of beers and when I woke up around 2 am to go relieve myself, I carried my phone with me to use as a flashlight. When I was coming back, I passed near this tent of these lesbians and played some Bear sounds. I could hear them freaking a bit and I quickly scammered back into my tent. About half an hour later, a ranger comes by my tent and asks if I have heard any noises. I tell him "you mean...You waking me up". You might ask how I know they were Lesbians and what that has to do with anything but that involves more to tell that I couldn't sum up in a few paragraphs. Suffice is to say that when I am camping, I avoid children, young couples and now, Lesbians.

Good Luck with your endeavors!

I would strongly recommend finding a helmet you love, and adding this -

http://smile.amazon.com/Sena-SMH10-11-Motorcycle-Bluetooth-Microphone/dp/B0087NB088/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408630707&sr=8-1&keywords=smh10

Go in on a 2 pack with a buddy and save some dough, plus have a intercom buddy when you ride - http://smile.amazon.com/Sena-SMH10D-10-Motorcycle-Bluetooth-Intercom/dp/B0087NAZM0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408631057&sr=8-2&keywords=smh10

The great thing about this is that it can change with your helmet, it also provides a great intercom system (that I've found quite a few folks with), and integrates really well with your smartphone (though, better with iPhone than Android much to my chagrin).

I have a Bell Star Carbon helmet and it comes with pre-cut spaces in the liner to accommodate a speaker setup such as this. There are others I'm sure in a more affordable price range that will do the same depending on what your budget is.

I got this chain rivet tool/breaker, and it worked great to rivet the chain, but I would never trust it to break a fully riveted chain. You need an angle grinder to take the tops off the pins first. That said, if you've got the cash, go for the Motion Pro. Your friends will thank you.

As far as brakes are concerned, there are a lot of options, from Windex spray pump things to quick bleeders to vacuum hand pumps to air compressor vacuum pumps. Honestly, motorcycle brakes are pretty simple since you can reach the brake actuator and the bleeder screw together.

Petcocks CAN be rebuilt without an issue, but depending on the price of a new petcock, entertain the idea. They can be a hassle.

Clean the carburetor and install an inline fuel filter if possible. Use non-ethanol gas whenever possible.

Definitely buy a manual for the valve adjustment, you've got shims instead of a locking nut on that bike.

Brake fluid absorbs 1-2% of water annually; do a flush and the brakes will have a notable difference.

Check the gas tank for rust, I've found white vinegar does wonders. BUT if you let it sit too long it'll eat petcocks. Try to remove the petcock just in case. Let it sit for 24/48 hrs while sloshing it every few hours. Empty, rinse with water, use WD-40 to displace water (OR use Heat), and fill with gas to prevent flash rust.

Buy a cable luber

Track down a local shop for a carburetor synchronizer to make sure both carbs are pulling equal vacuum.

I've found Rotella works great with older bikes. Had my '82 Yamaha Maxim 750 & '77 Suzuki GS550 running great and the clutch up to par.

BTW, at 8000 miles, you're slightly overdue for your 1st valve adjustment, if you haven't already done one.

On the EX500 a valve adjustment is relatively easy- the only parts you should need to buy are a couple of O-rings for the coolant pipes that go into the cylinder head. The cam cover gasket should be reusable, and don't put a shitload of RTV on it, just a dab on the bottom of each half-moon that covers the ends of the cams, if you insist on using any.

The valves are screw and locknut so all you will need is a 10mm box end wrench, a screwdriver, and a set of feeler gauges. You can buy a valve adjusting tool set like the Motion Pro 08-0073 set if you want but it's not strictly necessary. Buy a service manual, the genuine Kawasaki one is the best. You can usually get them on ebay for pretty cheap, and paper is definitely best for the workshop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036QZ8VQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1370220113&sr=8-2&pi=SL75
I picked these up last year and they lift the bike pretty solid. Pretty heavy stands for the price. Spools are about 15$ depending on the style etc. Really helps with chain cleaning/ lubricating, rear tire/ brake work etc. The "grunge brush" is a fantastic tool as well. Also cheap, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BS02LS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370220336&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
May not be "fun" gifts but endlessly useful if not already owned. happy spending!
Edit: just adding something to 6x9equals42's post, excellent ideas

Two types of master links on chains

Rivet style master link (this is how OEMs tend to do it)
http://www.spaikmos.com/pics/MasterLinkLooseSlackCloseup.jpg

Clip Style Master Link
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/ChainPhotos/MasterLinkTopLeg.jpg

how you proceed depends on how invested in tools you wish to get.

if you wish to go rivet style then I suggest you get a proper rivet tool. I've done the DIY tool method and used the cheaper tool but they're usually all junk and break in the middle of the job. the winner in my book is the RK Chain tool I have the 4060 and I've done 20ish chains with it so far I love it and the meals/beer I've gotten for helping friends out has more than covered my investment.

http://www.amazon.com/RK-UCT-4060-Universal-Chain/dp/B0087Y493A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415325133&sr=8-1&keywords=rk+chain+tool

If looking to save yourself some money I suggest going with a clip style master link and just cutting the chain off with a hack saw or cut off wheel on either a air tool or electric grinder. Clips go on easily and if you need more than a screwdriver and pliers you're doing something wrong.

Ooh, I can help with this one.

You're right, Sena is really pricey and this has kept me from owning one. I really only want to listen to music on long rides. I have no one I ride with regularly, so I don't need bike-to-bike comms, and I never make or receive a call on the move.

What sort of battery life do you need? Last summer I briefly owned one of the Chinese Sena-knockoff headsets, sold on Amazon by a few different vendors for just under $50, all with a black-and-orange color scheme (for example: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Motorcycle-Communication-Headphone-Interphone/dp/B01FRY1GC4/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1519148049&sr=8-11&keywords=motorcycle+bluetooth+headset)

The reason I sent it back was that it just did not have a useful battery life for my purpose, which was road trips. 2-3 hours tops. So I could listen to music for a small part of a day's riding, then it had to charge the rest of the day (~4 hour charge time, ugh).

Battery life is the largest distinction between these cheap-o BT headsets and the expensive ones.

I didn't own the knockoff headset long enough to assess waterproofness, but I did make a phone call on it once just to try it out. It worked fine for that. Was using a Nexus 5X phone at the time.

The headset did not however pair with my friend's Sena 20s, despite being advertised as so-capable.

Installation in my Shoei GT Air was a breeze. Even easier if you leave off the microphone, since you don't need to talk to anyone.

Hope this helps.

Hola, sorry about being late to the party. So I operate 100% mobile (not by choice) so I use 12v batteries often. What I did was contact home alarm companies to get 12v 7ahr batteries. For the most part, they give them away for free since in many states, they need to pay to dispose of them. So by giving you the battery (which in most cases are rarely used in the home alarm), they save money. If you get two, that is a couple of hours of operating time on them at full power.

​

Once you have that, amazon sells cheaper 12v battery trickle chargers that charge them up pretty quick. https://www.amazon.com/Mroinge-Automotive-Maintainer-Automatic-Motorcycle/dp/B010NRKERI/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1540986230&sr=1-13&keywords=battery+tender You can try this route to see if this type of mode is good for you before plunking down more money on Bioenno batteries and their chargers which are lighter.

I live in an apartment with no garage, but a pretty big driveway.

I bought one of these:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RN90EIE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505678956&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+shield&dpPl=1&dpID=512lNOctguL&ref=plSrch


It was pretty expensive ($300) but I have been really happy with it so far

Looking at photos of the bike, a tank bag would be pretty hard. I'd start by getting a backpack w/ plenty of storage. Get some "Rok Straps" and mount the backpack to the tail of the bike w/ a bungie net for extra safety. Avoid standard bungies with metal loops, they will scratch the paint off your mount points so straps are much better.

Saddlebags are a good idea but I think strapping the backpack down will be best.

https://dowcopowersports.com/iron-rider-rumble/

http://bikebeauty.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=182

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520897640&sr=8-3&keywords=rok+straps&dpID=514CB6kW07L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/PowerTye-50152-Black-featuring-Adjustable/dp/B0022ZXO40/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520897649&sr=1-2&keywords=bungee+net

Side bags wrap around the tail of the bike then cinch down to the frame/passenger pegs

https://www.amazon.com/Cortech-8230-0305-36-Black-Super-Saddlebag/dp/B008Q5J6UG/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_od_pi

Top bag snaps into it, but can be standalone too

https://www.amazon.com/Cortech-Super-24-Liter-Motorcycle-Tail/dp/B009RIG4UQ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_od_pi

All the stuff I bought was in the super 2.0 line, it was well made stuff

I needed a riser anyway to get the rack higher off the ground so I bought this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FAUF4TW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Have to make sure you also buy an anti-rattle device to make sure it doesnt sway, but it works like a charm!

This is the carrier I bought btw: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00916MMJG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

I like cam straps because they're easier to work with than ratchet straps. I have Ancra straps that are fantastic. I'd definitely buy them again. I also prefer to use use Canyon Dancers to hold the bike still in my truck bed, but its rear wheel is nestled into the corner of the bed and acts as a chock, sort of.

I have a 5-gallon VP Racing fuel jug. It has served me well, but it's tough to mess that up. I imagine any decent jug with a hose will do.

My ramp is a generic folding metal one from Amazon. Says Raider on the side, but it's exactly like that one I linked. It takes some getting used to, but I use it to get my bikes into and out of my truck bed by myself. Even the one without a kickstand.

Oxford stormx medium size. Covers my sv650 well with a little room to spare. I truly recommend it, soft heat resistant (150C) inside really good. about £50 but well worth it

see here

I bought a cheap $30 speaker off amazon that had great reviews and a cell phone holder to hold it (speaker is triangular and holds it perfectly) and it sounds way better!

​

Speaker: https://www.amazon.com/Enhanced-Splashproof-Portable-Bluetooth-Radiator/dp/B010OYASRG/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2?keywords=OontZ+Angle+3+%283rd+Gen%29&qid=1558562386&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull

​

Cell Holder: https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Rotatable-Universal-Handlebar-Smartphones/dp/B071L257Q8/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=Bike+Phone+Mount+Motorcycle+Bicycle+Holder%2C+360+Degree+Rotatable+Cell+Phone+Mount%2C+Universal+ATV%2C+Bicycle+Handlebar+Holder+for+iPhone+X+8%2F7%2F7Plus%2F6s%2F6Plus%2F5S%2C+Android+Smartphones&qid=1558562419&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

​

edit: called speaker the wrong shape ha

I read that as 30F and I was wondering why that would be your first major ride. Then I did the conversion... sounds like beautiful weather and a beautiful ride.


> Get some form of communication (we relied on taps and gestures, which is pretty crap)

I have the Sena 20S. It's expensive... but completely worth it in my opinion if you often ride with other people. A co worker and I went in 50/50 on the dual pack.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sena-20S-01D-Motorcycle-Bluetooth-Communication/dp/B00KJGPMZI/

Since you'll be on the same bike the longer range of the 20S might not be worth it for you.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0087NAZM0

Otherwise theres also putting in earbuds with a mic before you put the helmet on and calling each other. (If you have unlimited minutes)

SMH5 was pretty affordable for me, like $100 and I get decent sound, hands free talking and people can never tell I'm even riding.

Link for people who think they know better

Sounds like you need a hitch carrier. I don't have any specific recommendations regarding brands, etc., but this is the sort of thing that will likely work for you: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Widow-SMC-600R-Motorcycle-Carrier-600lb/dp/B002M3ODTC. On average these things seem to be rated for around a 600 lb capacity, so I'd think a dirt bike would be perfectly safe to transport using one of these.

Yes, always do. It's definitely something you can do yourself. I've got 3 chain tools, this is my favorite: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0470-Chain-Breaker/dp/B0050HJNW4

You actually just graduated a level in motorcycle maintenance. You can replace your own chains with a chain breaker/pin set kit and a digital micrometer.
High quality chains like D.I.D. are a good idea, and the instructions will be clear regarding the spread/flare measurement on the pin.
If you do this, lube the threads on the extractor with a little lithium.
You will also typically want to replace both sprockets with the chain.

Same capacity, except mine has an aluminum U wheel track vice the steel on that one. Remember the hitch hauler itself weights about 80-100 lbs.
I have this one, but I welded a 3/8 wide stringer under the receiver part just to feel comfortable with a Dual Sport, there is no way in the world I would trust any hitch hauler for for 600 lbs.
Black Widow SMC-600R Deluxe Steel Motorcycle Carrier-600lb. Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M3ODTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_6WxzCb293YYYC

Yes, no need to go OEM on this, also get a rivet tool and save your self the cost and trouble of going to the shop. Something like this will remove links and dimple the rivet. Be sure to count the links in your old chain and check the manual to be sure you are using the right amount. A quick search shows the following: OEM Sprocket Sizes - 15T Front Sprocket / 39T Rear Sprocket OEM Chain - 525 Pitch / 104 Links.

Bought mine 3 months ago. Love it.

SHOEI RF-1200 RUTS TC-5 XLG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1KMBJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mexszb00KC3V8

Came with a pinlock anti fog insert and clear visor.

Ordered the black tinted visor and additional pinlock insert from Amazon.

I've also got the cheap $40 Yideng Motorcycle Bluetooth Intercom Headset Interphone Communication System For Motorbike Skiing Helmet To 2 or More Riders(Single) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FRY1GC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_agxszbREDV30S

Speakers suck but so far haven't crackled or distorted.

Talking is good and loud enough to hear, sometimes too loud. But my bike is too loud so I don't use it often as I'd rather listen to music.

I bought this one, works great. I also use it for my remote control for my fan!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L257Q8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one and it works pretty good. As far as it being wide enough you could use a folding chair as a step onto the tailgate, alot of people do. Or you could buy two of them.

https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Folding-Loading-750lbs/dp/B0091VDZVA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=motorcycle+ramp&qid=1567083898&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Torque wrench

Socket set

Hex sockets

1/2 inch Ratchet

1/4 inch Ratchet

Combo wrench set

Calipers

Chain tool

Pretty close to everything you'll ever need to work on a bike, besides specialty tools. Buy or borrow other stuff when the issue comes up! You can do it!!

Edit: Added calipers.

Is the battery just low so bump starting is a permanent fix or did I trash the battery so I need a new one eventually?

I have AAA - Can they jump a motorcycle? Also, I'll probably need a tender for the winter here - Do you have a cheap one you'd recommend off Amazon? I see this one and I have the black rectangular adapter already hooked into my battery (the usb I bought used it in case I'd ever need a tender lol convenient) - https://www.amazon.com/Mroinge-Automotive-Maintainer-Automatic-Motorcycle/dp/B010NRKERI/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=battery+tender&qid=1564966030&s=gateway&smid=A231WKUWLTWVRP&sr=8-7

I'm using an older version of the RK Excel chain tool. It's expensive but I've replaced a lot of chains in the 10 years I've used it.

Motion Pro also makes a good quality rivet tool/ chain breaker.

Did you ever look at something like this? Ppl seem to love them and I think they would fit the screen no problem

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Shield-Standard-Motorcycle-Shelter/dp/B00RN90EIE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525627485&sr=8-3&keywords=bike+shield&dpID=512lNOctguL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

or

http://www.thebikebarn.net/model_standard.html

or

http://www.cycleshell.com/

This tool works great. But why not just get a new cable?

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=asc_df_B0012TYX9W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158603728&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13462585751006127118&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004586&hvtargid=pla-460266440593&psc=1

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M3ODTC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Skmlxb1MMF0QQ

You would have to do more research to find the good ones.

I saw this one from another post by u/AttackJacks and it works great!

In what capacity? Are you using it to listen to music, or talk on the phone? Can you give some more details of your experience with it? What helmet are you using it in? How easy was it to install? Otherwise I seem to be missing the point of your post... For anyone else interested here are the reviews on Amazon

I have the Cortech 2.0 for my ‘17 T120. Love it. 👍

This SENA is the one I have and works like a charm. It's just under $100 so it is affordable in comparison to the other SENA and other brand headsets.

Majority of my rides are commutes or just solo rides since I can rarely find time with others.

I've tried a lot of cell phone mounts. This one is my favorite so far, it's rock solid and quick to get the phone in and out.

I've been using this 18650-cell flashlight on my bike for almost a year now. It's bright as hell, with decent battery life and easy to swap batteries if you need extended range.

I use the "Max Miles" phone holder. Less then $20 off Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y38MF3K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works fine, I've been up to 140 with my phone strapped on this thing. I trust it and recommend it.

Installed a chain on my motorcycle the other day... It rides so much smoother now that I have a chain that actually wants to curve when it hits the sprocket rather than attempt to stay straight...

I used a tool that i got offa Amazon to rivet it. It got good reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0099Z4MJ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The tool is bent and the pin is mushroomed more than the chain rivets are.

Did I just use a tool that wasn't /r/skookum enough?

These guys make the job way easier. The outer wrench loosens and tightens the lock-nut while the inner flat-head makes the adjustment. $25 well spent (even though Motion Pro's stuff isn't heirloom grade).

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0073-Tappet-Tool/dp/B000JP31T8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368246057&sr=8-1&keywords=tappet

I don’t use a cell phone mount. I use these in my helmet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BTSFN54?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title and just turn on my maps with some music. I’ve used it from Texas to Canada riding about ten hours a day and charging it at night. It also will pause your music and GPS if you get a call and resume when you end the call, which makes the wife happy.

I got this one couple weeks ago :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y38MF3K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looked like the safest option for my 1000$ Pixel 2 phone. Would have cancelled the project of getting a phone mount otherwise.

​

Edit : got a rubber case also, feared of cracking the phone's glass as this thing can squeeze pretty tight.

This is very important. All shops will keep the scooter overnight in order to let it cool.

I picked up a set of these tools, they make it so much easier to do:

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0073-Tappet-Tool/dp/B000JP31T8

I use something that looks like this.

Although what I'm using isn't actually that because it's a knock off. But it's relatively small with a curved top for "aerodynamics" (lel) Has plenty of space too. And you can use a tiny padlock to lock the zipper to the plastic D-ring near the handle.

There was a set of both front and rear on amazon recently for like $60

http://www.amazon.com/Venom-Motorcycle-Swingarm-Paddock-Kawasaki/dp/B0036QZ8VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408486452&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+stands

I'd order up a chain breaker & riveting tool. I don't have any first hand experience with this one in particular, but it's got decent reviews on Amazon and costs under $30.

My first accessory (besides earplugs) was this, a helmet headset that lets me talk to my family and listen to music over Bluetooth. It makes my commute a lot less boring, and it encourages me to call my family a little more often.

It's kind of expensive for a secret Santa, but it comes highly recommended.

• Venom Stands
  
  Alternatively, hang it from the ceiling or a ladder with ropes/ratchet straps. These are good if you need to take off the forks or swingarm.

I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y38MF3K

I enjoy it because you can tighten it down and then pull on it and say "nope, that ain't going anywhere". It is like a mini version of transporting the bike on a hitch mount.

I use a samsung galaxy s5 though. If you have one of those small tablets people are calling phones nowadays you may want to go with the RAM.

Get this: https://www.costco.ca/Firman-H08053-Hybrid-Series-Dual-Fuel-Portable-Generator.product.100364803.html

And this: Mroinge Automotive Trickle Battery Charger Maintainer 12V 1A Smart Automatic Battery Charger for Car Motorcycle Boat Lawn Mower Sla Atv Wet Agm Gel Cell Lead Acid Batteries https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B010NRKERI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7rojDbGT3EC43

Then a 30lb tank at costco filled for 85$

Then get this:

Reliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit with Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, and Power Inlet Box for Up to 8,000-Watt Generators https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HS2L3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3nojDb6PD5Q25


Should only cost $1000 to install from a contactor or electrician.

That's definitely not a ladder, it's a loading ramp.

Oh, so that's what the HF cheapies look like. lol I was going to get one but ended up opting for something even cheaper on Amazon.

[Bro, you need a Sena](Sena Bluetooth Headset and Intercom for Scooters/Motorcycles with Universal Microphone Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RB6UM0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_froDzbD13XBJQ)

These things are amazing. I used to do the earbud under helmet thing. But when I finally treated myself to one of these... I'm never going back.

There are cheaper brands, and more expensive ones with more features, so shop around, but upgrading to one of these will change your world.

I use the Sena smh10r. Just dont attach the mic and hide the mic connection behind the padding. And the Ram x has done me good so far.

I think I ended up getting mine off eBay since they shipped to Canada for free, but I got the same one as this http://www.amazon.com/Venom-Motorcycle-Swingarm-Paddock-Kawasaki/dp/B0036QZ8VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410524786&sr=8-1&keywords=venom+motorcycle+stand

I use a BikeShield: https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Shield-Standard-Motorcycle-Shelter/dp/B00RN90EIE

You can lock it as well.

Just bought this one. I can let you know tomorrow how well it works. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FRY1GC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qf7YCbKQHPHWE

For speedo, maybe get a trail tech kit. That dangle thingy is want spins your speedometer.

You dont need to change anything to use LED signals as long as you got voltage. Only recommend to install resisters to stop the fast flashing. Fast flashing will wear out the relay faster.

Get that steering neck checked out. If the bearings are done for, good chance seals are out too and years of water contamination sitting in the neck is asking for it to snap.

For brake cable, you might be able to get away with forcing lube into the sleeve. Get one of these:
Motion Pro 08-0182 Cable Luber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UbxWDbSMHQG1A

The loose jet could of been improperly torqued and vibration spit it out or the threads are worn. Id would double check the threads

You can use a tool like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463521383&sr=8-4&keywords=clutch+tool+lubricant

with cable lube or WD40(i don't like it).

There is ton of video on youtube to help you.

Brand new cable are already lubrified from assembly but meh.

188,66 EUR on amazon.de: http://www.amazon.de/Sena-SMH10R-01-Platzsparendes-Bluetooth-Headset-Gegensprechanlage/dp/B00BTSFN54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420900562&sr=8-1&keywords=SMH10R

I don't know how much shipping will be to Belgium, but you'll avoid import taxes.

In Spain they'll hit you pretty hard for that price. They're supposed to pick items at random but if it's more than 100$ you'll get hit.

I uses chain oil for the clutch cable and wd40 for the throttle cables. I apply with one of these http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Lubber/dp/B0012TYX9W you can probably find a you tube on how to use this tool. If you want to lube the throttle tube I use a thin spread of bel Ray grease.

The tool is about $9. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484485994&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+luber

Personally, I'd replace the cable(s).

Bungee cords are so last Thursday. The modern man uses Rok Straps.

Just get a cheap chinese knockoff Bluetooth. Plenty of diff models and reviews on youtube.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Motorcycle-Communication-BT-S2-Interphone/dp/B01FRY1GC4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bts2&qid=1558531962&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I'm all about being a cheapskate/ingenuity, but just in case anyone else isn't -https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537939646&sr=8-3&keywords=motorcycle+cable+lube+tool

Buy the Sena with a buddy lol.

This

chain wax is not recommended, neither is WD40. Beyond that though you can get specific stuff for the job, or just some generic teflon/lithium/silicon lubricant will do the job.

I ended up getting the Motion Pro Tool and Lube

I'm thinking of getting a communicator. I'm no expert on this but this should be able to work with every other communicator right?

I've seen more than a few people over the years at the track use this to tote their sport bikes which weigh upwards of 400lbs+ http://www.amazon.com/Mounted-Motorcycle-Carrier-Capacity-Loading/dp/B002M3ODTC
The downside is your bike is out in the elements.

I picked up this one as my BMW is a bit shy of 500lbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M3ODTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've yet put it together however.

So I got all the tools and part to do a proper chain swap. I wanted to rivet the master link, but realized that the tools I had bought (breaker and chain press) weren't meant for riveting, only a clip master link. I got it all on fine, I just need to swap out the master link for a rivet at some point.

Is there somewhere where I can buy just a riveting tool? I'd hate to blow my budget on this when I already have the breaker and press, and just need something to rivet the master link.

No worries.

And you're right in that cables can also be lubricated, there are devices created expressly to lubricate cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W for example.

But if it's rusted and covered in gunk, it's done and it's time to pick up a new one. Normal OEM ones should be well under $50.

Also, old cables will have stretched and the more you use them, the more prone to snapping they are. Same goes for clutch cables.

So replace them on a schedule and thus your chances of avoiding a snapped cable when it's highly inconvenient goes down.

I purchased my 2016 R3 brand new. I dropped it the third day I had it and bent the footpeg. Replaced it for $20. I later dropped it on grass. No damage. The third time I dropped it the clutch lever broke and I scratched the sticker on it. Big bulb turn signal cushioned the fall and plastics took almost no damage. $10 for a new lever.

I'm going to keep this bike for a long time. It's already paid off in full so it's just insurance and maintenance from now on.

I wanted the cleanest look possible but state law forces me to have some sort of turn signals rather than just an integrated taillight. YMMV.
Try this for low cost?

Some upgrades:
Bike stands front and rear: $70

Saddlemen seat (comes with pillion seat): $200

Eventually some better tires: ~$200

1WD-F41B1-00-P0 (Matte tank center to replace my glossy black): $30


No fender eliminators for me. I'd rather my plastics take a hit than the shock getting sent through to the frame. Although I suppose after a certain point it won't matter.

Head over to the R3 forums. Plenty of cool people and mods there.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W

This tool clamps around the cable end, and has a small hole in the side that allows you to stab the straw from a can of spray-lube into it. The rubber seals around the cable, and forces the aerosol lube into the cable sheath.

If you suspect water, I would take the choke cable off of the control, clamp up the lube tool, and start by shooting WD-40 into the sheath. WD-40 is not a lube, but it does displace water. (That's what WD stands for, after all.)

As you are injecting WD-40, move the choke cable in and out, until you see lube coming out the bottom of the cable sheath.

Wiggle it in and out a bunch more until WD40 stops dripping out the bottom, and then shoot actual cable lube into the sheath.

Next, do the same thing to your throttle cables, clutch cable, etc, although you may be able to skip the WD40 step.

If you don't lube your cables, they will break when you are 100 miles from home, in the rain.

The chain on my 2011 CBR250R is going to need replacing fairly soon as it was neglected by the previous owner.

This is my first bike and I don't know all ins and outs of things but I've managed to select new front and rear sprockets as well as a D.I.D 520 series chain.

My question for you oh so knowledgable seasoned pros: I need a chain breaker/riveting tool. After scouring the Internet forums I've come up with these three tools as some of the most acclaimed.

RK's UCT 4060
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087Y493A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_rtqKybFV2EHYR

D.I.D's KM500
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPUGWFG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_puqKyb9PV7WB6

Motion Pro's 08-0470 PBR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050HJNW4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_bvqKybE5YW0M2

I've heard the Motion Pro referred to as small, weak, and "a toy", while some complain about the D.I.D to be small and difficult to handle. This left me with the RK which I haven't heard many negative things about.

For those of you who use any (or all) of these, what are your opinions? What are things you've heard about them? Do you have any OTHER tool recommendations other then these three?