Reddit mentions: The best rare earth magnets

Step 0: Read this entire tutorial several times.

Step 1: Remove the strings. If this will cause the bridge to fall off, mark the body where the bridge is EXACTLY with masking tape.

Step 2: Determine if the crack runs over any bracing on the underside of the top, and if that bracing has been damaged. You can do this several ways; I use a small mirror and a flashlight looking at that crack, and the bracing. Do a google image search for what mandolin bracing looks like, and you'll know those little spines are what you'll be looking for.

Turn off the lights in the room you're working in and use the light to see if there are other cracks as well.

If the bracing is cracked, you'll have to fix that too. It's just as important as the top.

Step 2: You will need to purchase a bottle of Titebond glue, some cheap superglue, a pack of neodymium magnets (cheap on [amazon]https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517603237&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=deodymium+magnets)), a big roll of masking tape (get a name brand), a roll of string, a pair of safety goggles, some nitrile gloves, a paper towel or two, and two to three popsicle sticks to do this on the cheap. You also want a towel you don't care for as well as a table that you'll be able to use for a few days.

Instead of a roll of string, you can purchase clamps that extend from one side of the mandolin to the other. String is cheap, and luthiers have used it for hundreds of years.

I use Titebond II for my repairs, but I or III should be just as good. Depending on how old the instrument is, it may have originally used Hide Glue, if you want to keep the original glue type.

The tops of guitars and other instruments that use the top as a reverberation device (the "tonewood") are usually made of Sitka Spruce. The Janka Hardness Scale shows Sitka Spruce as:

Janka Hardness: 510 lbf (2,270 N)

The Janka Hardness scale of a popsicle stick (usually Baltic Birch) which isn't actually a wood, but a grade of wood. It means that, generally, popsicle sticks are pretty variable hardness from stick to stick.

Approximate substitutes to show variability:

Yellow Birch -- Janka Hardness: 1,260 lbf (5,610 N)

Paper Birch -- Janka Hardness: 910 lbf (4,050 N)

The hardness of very hard woods is in the 10- or 20,000 N, so we are far from that.

This is important to note because you generally want the same hardness wood as the original top was made with to patch cracks in the top, so that the tone resonates properly to avoid deadening the sound. As Baltic birch is not much harder, but easily obtainable, it will serve as our "cleat".

Step 3: Tape up the corners of the instrument (where the top meets the sides) with three layers of masking tape, and also tape around the edge of the break as absolutely close as you can get with as little wood showing as possible. Patience is key at this point, and you don't want to mess up the top or the corners, or cause more issues. When you get to laying glue out, things happen quickly, so be sure that everything is very close at hand.

Step 4: Cut 3 pieces of a popsicle stick about an inch long a piece. Round the corners on these three inch-long pieces of popsicle stick. You now have 3 popsicle stick cleats. These three are all you'll need, but we have extra sticks just in case you lose them or butcher one.

Step 5: Tape the top of the magnets with a square of tape that more or less covers the top of the magnet. Lay a generous dot of the cheap superglue on the back of the tape that is covering the magnet, and put a second square of tape on top of that so that the sticky side is up. This is your clamp and tape sandwich.

From the bottom to the top, your sandwich looks like: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air.

Do this for three magnets.

Place your three inch-long popsicle stick ovals onto the sticky side of the tape.

Your sandwich now looks like, from bottom to top: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air, popsicle stick cleat.

Step 6: Lay the mandolin down on the towel that's on the table, with the neck to the left. Position the masking tape under the neck to support the neck. If it doesn't reach, stick a few rags or an old shirt under there til it's nice and pillow-y soft, and supports the neck.

If you have clamps, ensure are padded and ready.

If you're using string: Tie a fist-sized loop in the string, so that you can pass your hand and the entire roll of string freely through the loop. Position this loop on the other side of the mandolin, with the rest of the string and the ball extending toward you under the mandolin.

Step 7: This is where the fun begins. Ensure you have the next hour free of distractions. This will go quickly.

The cleats will be positioned perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin. The grain of the top of the mandolin is usually from the tailpiece to the neck. The goal is to not only position the cleats directly underneath the crack, but have the long side of the cleat going from where you're sitting to where the loop of string is. This will ensure a strong bond and ensure that it doesn't break again.

This cleat will be on the underside of the top of the mandolin, so do a test run of placing the three (dry) magnet sandwichs underneath the crack, and placing the other three magnets at equal intervals along the crack. These will be your cleat clamps.

If you're using bar clamps instead of the string, try a dry run of using them to squeeze the sides of the mandolin together now. Not too much pressure - don't crack the corners or sides.

This is the time to get this correct. When you think you've got the idea down, remove the dry run pieces and get ready for gluing.

Step 8: Place titebond on the tops of the cleats. Rub it around with your finger. You don't want too little or too much; you want just enough that the glue will stick and set.

Glue your mandolin crack with the titebond. You don't want too little; Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Position the cleats under the crack on the inside of the mandolin at equal intervals, with the grain perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin, and clamp up with the magnets. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.

Clamp up the sides so that the crack comes together. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.

If you're using string, take the ball of string and run it through the loop. Start wrapping from top right to bottom left, then bottom left to top right of the mandolin body. Move inward to the center of the body. Your goal here is to ensure a tight clamping and the crack to be sealed. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Work slowly but purposefully.

Step 9: Let this sit for 24 hours. Don't touch it. Don't fiddle with it. Leave it alone.

Step 10: After 24 hours, unwrap it or take the bar clamps away, take the magnets away (carefully peeling the tape away) leaving only the cleats on the underside, and clean up any popped-out glue seam that you see with a carefully placed blade, ensuring you don't scratch the top of the mandolin.

Restring, and it's fixed!

Or you can take it to an instrument repair shop and they'll do allll this for you.

They are Neodymium magnets. If you search on Amazon you might be able to find the 175lbs one I got...I can't seem to find it now. I did find a cheap 125lbs one tho.

CMS Magnetics Super Strong 1” Neodymium Cube Magnet – Storage Box Included for Added Safety https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UEBF00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-dxbBbPRX23TJ

Edit:. This is almost the same one I bought, 150lbs of pull. I also saw a 400lbs+ one on there for like $30..might try that sucker out soon.

Super Strong Neodymium Magnet N52 1" Cube Permanent Magnet, The World's Strongest & Most Powerful Rare Earth Magnets by Applied Magnets 2Pc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3V43ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BlxbBb2S419YA

Super Strong 420 lbs Neodymium Cup Magnet 3" Countersunk Round Base Mounting Magnet Fastener, The World’s Strongest & Most Powerful Rare Earth Magnets by Applied Magnets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVGY3MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_onxbBbB7ZHJSN

The magnet's are pretty small for how strong they are, you need to look for Neodymium magnets instead of ferrous ones. This is the one we use, it's plenty of power and quite cheap if you ask me. Don't get you hand caught in between it and metal, they can crush bones easily.

As for good spots we have had most success under bridges next to roads, but fishing piers or really wherever people go to fish are great to find lures, hooks and all kinds of fishing tools that can often be resold.

Hope that helps, it sure is a lot of fun for so little money.

Ahh I've seen this before, it's quite an easy fix. It's understandable that a rookie like you wouldn't know what to do.

Just follow these easy steps.

• First, your computer is clearly booting incorrectly. Purchase this product ASAP.
  
  
• Take the product and rub it all around the outside of your computer. This helps eliminate any pesky viruses.
  
  
• Open up your computer. You'll see some things in places (the names are really not important) all over. Take the product and just rub it all over everything. Gotta do a deep clean for those viruses. While you're in there, make sure your wires are as tangled as possible. This helps slow viruses down if they infect your computer
  
  
• Finally, you're going to want to do a hard reset of your computer. So make sure you go in an delete you system 32. This is where the most viruses live, so it's like destroying a bee hive. This is the first step of the hard reset.
  
  
• The next step is to delete all of your accounts. Gmail, reddit, bank accounts, steam, etc. Just delete them. They could be harboring viruses that will infect you on your next go around.
  
  
• And finally, the last part of the cleanse. Go out to the store or go online and find an install disk for Windows Vista. It has proven time and time again to be the best product you can own as a PCMR. It is incredibly simple and user friendly, much more so than any MAC you might buy.
  
  Hope this all works for you! Best of luck brethren
  

2 [Neodymium Cup Magnets] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAEF59W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wrZ6ybYNF05FF) glued together (Note the magnets will repell slightly because they're backwards, I held them together while they dried with a potato bag clip)


And a [3/4" Diameter Steel Ball Bearing] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L3V098/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_isZ6ybP374PVF)

The glue I used was Gorilla glue, the one that dries white and expands some. It worked really really well. I could scrape it off with my knife if there was too much but it's also incredibly strong. I recommend this over soldering because the ball needs a tiny bit of space as a track to roll around and because the glue expanded it provided a track to go around. Otherwise solder it if you have a mini washer to use as a spacer.

I've also dropped it on hard floor a few times and no marks or any signs of damage.

The only real difference from this an the Orbiter is that the centers are incredibly attractive unlike the Orbiter, they are also not as concave but the ball will still fit into the divot. But because of the high attraction it won't roll around in that divot but you can still run your thumb around the stationary ball which feels nice. There is also a hole in the center of this so I can expand on this toy too :)

Thanks for the videos! So it seems like double-sided magnets would be best for dragging along the river floor and single sided magnets are best for lowering down from the top of the water. Would something like this with two removable hooks work well in both situations (depending on which hook was attached), then? Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q4LB83V/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07Q4LB83V&pd_rd_w=jjIYv&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=4xvzk&pf_rd_r=STM7CJ444YWEMJR2TMJ3&pd_rd_r=864343f5-5592-4e3a-a514-c2bcc5c728d8&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOUU4WTFNVU1TMVNTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTI4MDg2M0dXNVY2WUJTQldEQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzQ0MjEwMzU0REdPVFJaRk1GWSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I think they are pretty standard magnets. You need the “super magnets / rare earth magnets” that have a chrome look.

They are rates by pull per lbs.

I have not yet tested this on my 3. When I do, I will try to put the magnets inside the front license place holder that came with the car and inside the bumper. I would suggest lining the license plate holder with felt.

Here’s as example. There are stronger magnets than this on Amazon.
10Pc Super Strong N52 Neodymium Magnet 1.26" x 1/8" NdFeB Discs, The World's Strongest & Most Powerful Rare Earth Magnets by Applied Magnets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSTKTSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7x7TBbSCEM2PC

I’ll have my car back from the shop next week. Maybe this will be my first DIY project and I’ll post something on reddit.

tl;dr: are magnets safe to use to keep a door closed? Will it cause issues with electronics that pass through the door?

I’m building a dog gate at the start of my stairs. It’s going to be barn inspired but I don’t want to use a latch because that seems annoying to deal with every time I go up and down my house. Would it be possible to use magnets like these
to keep the door shut? The dogs won’t be able to push the door open since it’ll be against the first stair so I really only need something to moderately hold the door in place. Do you think those magnets would be a good idea to have on the side of the gate? then drilling a joining plate to my wall so it sticks to that spot?

could the magnets cause issues to electronics when going past the gate?

thanks for reading!! hope someone can shed some light on this!

WHEN DA MEK KANT ATTATZ DA BITS TO EACH OVA DEN DAT MEK NEEDS DA BIG MAGNETS.

IZ U ORKY MEK?
Super Strong Neodymium Magnet N45 4 x 1 x 1/4" Permanent Magnet Bar, The World's Strongest & Most Powerful Rare Earth Magnets by Applied Magnets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KDJGQP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yVUQBb385CMMW

OR DA 'UMIE MEK?
Super Magnets Magnetic aa (6X3MM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077LCCGMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vZUQBbVCW4SY9

Dont quote me on this because I am not sure what type of magnet they use but I have used rare earth magnets before and those things look like the one in the dynastash and they are super strong. just google rare earth magnets...you can get them on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b1NcM6l_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=W6YR9F9WSGGQ8D2Q9PXA&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a9b59d08-5252-5d67-bf88-a2ac96acd022&pf_rd_i=1265130011

there is an amazon link

Don't know what kind of "stud finder" you are using. But it is always best not to over complicate this. Get a good, strong rare earth magnet. Ideally one with a hole in it like this: https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Neodymium-Magnet-Countersunk/dp/B008H40U10
Tie a couple of feet of string on it. Hold the string end against the wall and swing the magnet like a pendulum. Move it around. Once you find a nail or screw go vertically from there. Those are your studs.
Every sheet of drywall has some fasteners. At least a few on every stud. They are made out of ferrous metal. Even lath and plaster walls have nails fastening the lath to the studs. There may be good reasons to have the fancy electronic gadget stud finders. But magnets work and they never need fresh batteries to do it.

Just a thought and no experience but why not rare earth magnets? You could either put magnets on the outside and inside or use pieces of painted steel on the outside and magnets with hooks on the inside to mount the bags.

Something like this. I’m sure the magnetism would extend through the aluminum.

845LB(380KG) Super Powerful Neodymium Fishing Magnets with Black Epoxy Bond, Magne... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBNMSBM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_JPxBDb58GJG18

Something like this?
Check this out at Amazon.com
Strong Neodymium Disc Magnets (6 Pack) - 2X Stronger, 2X Thicker, Powerful, Small, Round, Rare Earth Magnets - N45 Industrial Strength NdFeB Magnet Set for Fridge, DIY, Crafts - 1.26" x 1/8" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WJMSCR/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pMMTCb9922Y73

I made a few recently. They were my second woodworking project ever, so they aren't perfect, but I was pretty happy with how they turned out.

http://imgur.com/a/FW97R

I still haven't even hung one up yet, so I can't really tell how well the magnet works. I just sort of tested it by holding bottle caps near the opener and dropping them.

These are the magnets I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008H40WWW/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1457586980&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cms+mangetics+112+lbs

Probably paid way too much for the magnets, but I only needed 3.

edit: how much wood are you guys leaving between the magnet and the finished surface? I think I left 1/8"

I suggest getting these items Silver Sculpey Get one pack for each bullet splash you want to have.

Then get these. Make sure you have two magnets or each bullet splash.

Then I'd make one claw arm not two as it's a pain to go without two hands. To make the claw I'd grab some foam board.

Get some Super glue or hot glue.

Silver paint that matches the baked shade of the clay.

some blue paint that matches your cop uniform.

Start with the clay, open it and save the wrapper- shape the stuff into dishes with a entry hole or deep point. From the center of each dish make spirals that come out - You could even make the clay into a long snake and coil it around and around to make your dishes. Then make an indent to place one of your magnets flush into the base and make it 10% deeper and wider. Follow the instructions and bake it. Grab super glue and attach one magnet to the dish and the other threw your cop uniform.

The arm is gonna be a bit harder. You want to cut out some shapes from the foam core and then glue it with some superglue or hot glue. I'd start off with cutting two rectangles about as wide as your forearm and about 10 -12 inches longer . the remainder I would cut into long right triangles that are as long as the long piece. This should help make a box to fit your arm in, continue to cut and glue additional pieces to make your hooks. Paint the same color as your putty dishes and you should be done. To help with the details- blend your silver paint into your clothing by matching a blue of the uniform into the splashes and arm the transition into the silver.

wow. holy crap! clearly you have done this before on these cars.

• so basically, you recommend putting an inline filter between the hard line and the carb, correct?
  
  
• as far as the magnets, could i just put them on the underside of the tank? i could just line THESE MAGNETS up across the rear of the tank and that would be good right?
  
  
• would you be able to tell me since i have the HEI on it, So on my timing since I have the hei in, should I be on stock timing and plugs, and plug gap? Or should I be on the spec for the 75 or 76? http://www.angelfire.com/extreme3/drchop/docscads.html - I would think same stock timing, but with the plugs and gap for the stronger spark right?
  

I actually made it. Cost me somewhere around $75 if I remember correctly. Buy all the materials listed below for the size/quantity you want, and then I custom printed and cut clear labels for the top and sides of the jar. The magnets are glued to the inside of the jar lids. If you get them strong enough they will never slide or slip. The ones I list can get about a half inch from the stainless base before they won't go back.

Stainless Steel Backplate - You can order in a lot of places - but make sure you have the correct steel makeup. Not all stainless is magnetic!

Superglue - Any standard superglue should work.

Magnets - It would seem that they don't sell these magnets anymore, but it should be easy to find something similar.

4oz Glass Hex Jars w/ Lids - This was the most reliable source at the time.

I like magnets and metal tools. Things just stay in place. Like this
something like this. good for keeping something in place. Just something to think when making things that hold tools. They are pretty cheap and do well in a ton of situations. one of those discs holds at least 10lb hammer they have smaller and thinner ones that work well for smaller stuff. Take a look

Remove headliner, glue some neodym magnet to aluminium roof with doublesided tape,
Something like this

Pro Tip check out which side of the Magnet is attract magnetically to your construction lights before sticking it to the roof.

Mark the spot on the roof with an small sharpie point, plave the construction light on Point, done.

Source, that was my souloution on LandRovers, which have Alu Bodys for decades.

WARNING DO NOT USE THIS TIP WHEN YOU HAVE TO TRANSPORT PPL WITH AN HEART PACEMAKER DIRECTKLY UNDER THE MAGNET!!

Other Idea is to mount the light onto a suction cup glass grip like this

these. They worked great for this application and they are priced pretty well.

https://3ds.hacks.guide/installing-boot9strap-(ntrboot)
According to the guide I need a magnet to trigger sleep mode, but I'm concerned about my magnet being too strong or too weak.
Here are a few I'm considering
https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527330981&sr=8-4&keywords=magnet
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331185&sr=1-2&keywords=magnetizer
https://www.amazon.com/XLMAGNET-Countersunk-Mounting-Building-Scientific/dp/B077GNVYZR/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331163&sr=1-9&keywords=fridge+magnet
I'm largely looking for one under 15$, and one that won't break my 3ds, or rather my New 2DS.
If anyone has any general tips or a range of magnet strength, please provide those too.

I'm looking at these which are a nice size, bigger than a quarter. They seem pretty powerful, so I'm thinking I may not need to drill into the bottom and there might be other ways of disguising the tiles.

I may also scrap the tile-search part and just have the puzzle be more focused on finding the board + planchette and then decoding the message.

I used these:

DIYMAG Strong Neodymium Bar Magnets with Double-Sided Adhesive, Rare Earth Neodymium Magnet - 60 x 10 x 3 mm, Pack of 16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8PDT2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jX19BbBD3FM5X

And stuck them to the window with these guys:

Command Small Clear Refill Strips, 16 Sets of Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGIT09A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MZ19Bb2QQWGN8

Works great!

https://imgur.com/a/izxye3v/

This is the magnet I got and I like it quite well. Excellent for an entry and mid level fishing magnet.

sure no problem.

1. Convert a photo album, 1 side medal/bib, second page pictures/ remembrances.
   
2. Get a heavy duty magnet. Pile them on the fridge, turn it into a ritual every time you finish a race to add to the stack. Let the thickness of it make you feel like badass as years progress.
   
3. Post them on your garage door. No one ever puts anything there, and it’s casual enough not to seem too braggy.
   
4. Make Christmas ornaments out of them/ the medals.
   
5. Get a spool of kite string. Every race, add to a chain. Create a banner for you to hold a running party every couple years or so, letting it get bigger and bigger.

I've used these in one application for a friend as I had them on hand from a different project


https://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Strongest-Powerful-Magnets-Applied/dp/B01MSTKTSF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=super+magnets&qid=1554478654&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

You can also order dynamags separately from dynavap or find a similar magnet (here are several on amazon with stickers on one side for about $10 https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M ) and there are also other sizes/shapes available of that type of magnet on amazon.I also saw someone else mentioning that you can get several for 2 or 3 bucks from Harbor Freight if you have that store nearby. Grab some magnets and improvise something. :)

​

[Edit -- the key for any magnet is "diametrically magnetized" and I admit I didn't verify that terminology when I mentioned the magnets above, except for the dynamag itself. But amazon has them for certain.]

That's an interesting thought... kind of curious to see what it would do. I think you'd only run into issues very close to or on top of a magnet. If it were me, I would try positioning your prints in a part of the bed with the least magnets-- they are around the edge and a few in the middle. Study the pics here or get yourself a piece of magnetic viewing film to make it easier to see where those spots are.

I've seen this one recommended a few times but I haven't bought it yet (I don't reach for my magnetics very often so I just haven't gotten around to it). This one is supposed to be strong enough that you can just lay your finger over the magnet and then paint each coat...no hovering necessary!

https://smile.amazon.com/Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Field-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS

I have some, it's pretty cool!

You can buy him some ferrofluid and strong neodym magnet to play and experiment with. Heck, you can even create your own ferrofluid.

I know this is old, but I'm currently putting together a drip tray shelf with magnets, and I want to point out to anybody else searching the sub:

The magnets on Amazon are a little more pricey, but they all quote 70+ lbs of pull force. These HD ones only say 5.8 lbs. So cheaper per magnet, sure. But at $8 (for 2 magnets, not per), you can probably use far fewer magnets.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008H40U10/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A25FKZJ6CRADAB

Looks great! When I made mine, I used a Forstner bit to drill a hole from behind and epoxies in place. Even though I drilled up to the pilot point barely poking through the front, and used this magnet, it only holds maybe 6-8 before they fall off. What size magnet did you use and how many caps can yours hold?

If you stick some neodymium magnets to your bike (I put 2 on my left pedal) you'll be able to trigger the sensor! :)

Also has the advantage of allowing you to trigger a green light on the road where there are the embedded wires.

I use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084UASJQ/

Edit: Or maybe not... http://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/2hirgt/do_any_of_you_regularly_take_your_bike_places/ckt4py0

Doo-da-doo... make your own!

Glass plate, 200mm, ferrofluid, glass clamp, EL Tape, Transparency film.

This is just how I'd build it - though, 0.2mm film may be too thick.

• Cut a 200mm circle of transparency film, then cut a 180mm circle into that (so you have a ring with an OD of 200mm, an ID of 180mm, and a wall of 10mm)
  
• Clean your glass plates, add the transparency, and measure the thickness of the sandwich without the fluid in, using a micrometer (should be roughly 6.2mm). Trim your EL tape to a strip of that thickness (should be a little less than a third the base thickness of the EL tape).
  
• Place the film onto the plate, and tape it down at the edges. You don't need a seal, just enough tape so the transparency doesn't walk.
  
• Drip 5 mL fluid onto the plate (0.2mm pi (90mm)^2 = 5mm. Get a micrometer and measure the thickness of your transparency film to get the correct thickness; 0.2mm is assumed).
  
• Carefully place the top plate on
  
• Wrap the EL tape around the loose sandwich, using the bottom plate for the majority of your support. Tape it tightly in place.
  
• Carefully add the clamps at 90ᵒ angles along the plate's edge. Clamps should be unable to move from light vibration, but not so tight you risk breaking the glass. The transparency layer helps here.
  
• Apply power, and have fun!
  
  If the transparency layer leave too thick a film of ferrofluid, my second thought:
  
  

• Thoroughly wash a plate
  
• Cut a 180mm circle of waxed paper. Lay it in the center of a plate, and hold it in place with a dot of ferrofluid in the middle.
  
• Use cheap, thin packing tape to make a solid layer, starting from the middle of the waxed paper and moving outward.
  
• Carefully cut away the center
  
• Proceed as above, but using the ring of packing tape instead of transparency.
  
  Also, if you don't like cutting curves, there's no reason you couldn't do this with square or rectangular glass; you just wouldn't get consistent illumination along a given circumference. If I build this successfully, and proceed to design a segment display, I'm going to almost certainly use rectangular glass for it.

I found this plaque that I really like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQEMRC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Do you think these magnets would work, one mounting at the bottom and one at the top above the bottle opener?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWXEGP8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T24Q2YX26SWS

CMS Magnetics® Neodymium Round Base Magnet w/Countersunk Hole for#10 Bolt - 70 LBS PULL 1.26" in Dia 2 Ct. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008H40U10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nKuDxb9G02V3K

That's what I'm currently using. If I find 4 of them aren't strong enough I'll be adding a couple more. There are magnet sites where you can get a greater number if stronger magnets cheaper though.

I bet one of these would trigger it. I've handled one of them before. You can stand 20ft from a computer monitor and watch the image distort as you move the magnet.

Good luck detaching it afterward.

I bought some a while back to use with motors
CMS MAGNETICS 4" x 6" Green Magnetic Viewing Film, See Magnetic Field with this Magic Film to Learn Magnetism. Applicable for All Kinds of Magnets Including Neodymium Magnets, Lots of Fun! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UV6ZPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bD2yCbYNJ2P6P

I already had them, but it was two of something like this.

Unless he's got freakishly large hands, the first magnet looks like 2x2x1 and the second looks like 3x2 so I'd guess the pipe is 5" x 5" with a 2/3" wall.

Based on my setup, you need;

Decent thermometer

Auto Siphon & tubing

hydrometer

wine/beer thief

carboy or bucket for fermenting + rubber stopper & blowoff tube

bottling bucket w/ spigot

bottling wand

bottle capper + bottles & caps

I recommend 10 gallon kettle, I regret getting only 8 gal.

mesh brew bag sized to fit your kettle. Useful for both BIAB and batch sparge brewing.

Optional but very useful;

10 gallon mash tun (square or round cooler + steel braid/false bottom + brass valve) I regret only getting a 5 gallon. Easy home depot built.

DIY stirplate using adjustable computer fan + magnets + stir bar and a flask (I pull it off with a 1 gallon glass jug)

vinator

Fermentation chamber with temp controller!

Couldn't find a nice iPad kneeboard and was thinking of DIY. Would a magnetic mount on a kneeboard disturb the magnetic compass? (i.e. with magnets like those: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, 3 on the kneeboard, 3 on an ipad case, and you got yourself a nice magnetic holder).

> So I lost a $250+ Benchmade Osborne carbon fiber knife in the lake about 1 month after I got it.

Sorry. I got nothing for you. Except for a Amazon link; save up your change. ;p

-----

ETA: Storytime: Redditor loses rifle in pond in tragic boating accident. With help of a magnet, perseverance and luck finds his rifle.

Moral of the story: The handle is carbon-fiber and non-magnetic. The liners and blade are steel, and will stick to a magnet.

It's an infinity table with some wood and a bottle opener on it.

On the back of the wood you can take a forstner bit the size of a rare earth magnet and drill a hole the size of the magnet.

Use two part epoxy to secure the magnet in place and there ya go.

I found some for $9 on Amazon This would have been cool to see in science class.

Sure, here you go:

http://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics®-Holding-Neodymium-Countersunk/dp/B008H40WWW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453045870&sr=8-6&keywords=neodymium+magnets

Since you have a bit of time to prepare:


Order some cheap neodym magnets.


https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B073WJMSCR/ref=sr_1_18?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=magnet&qid=1574550681&sr=8-18


When you have time put one magnet each on your nipples and put some tape over it.


Here are a couple things I want you to do with your magnetic nipples (if someone wants to use the name "magnetic nipple" for their heavy metal band you can have it xD ):

• Try to pick up objetcs with them, post the heaviest thing you managed to lift in this thread.
  
  
  
• Look for something heavy you can stick yourself too (like pressing your breasts against a fridgedoor/heater) and try to cum with your vibe in this position

CMS Magnetics 4" x 6" Green Magnetic Field Viewing Film

it was less than $10 and totally worth it.

I remember this being posted in the subreddit as well

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8PDT2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jX19BbBD3FM5X?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

CMS Magnetics® 4" x 6" Green Magnetic Field Viewing Film on Amazon UK

Just get one from CMS Magnetics on Amazon. They have a 250# and a 405# for $35 and less with eye hooks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JPZ42OA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This isn't X-Rays, it's magnetic viewing film. You can buy it on amazon for around $10 here

Heavy-Duty Retrieving and Holding Magnet, 5" Length, 2" Width, 1" Height with Eyebolt, Nut, and Magnetic Shields, 150 Pounds Pull, 1 each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CP2PG0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Shh8wbCAMQ5KG

This is the one I use. You have to remember though, you're not getting a full contact (all 150lbs of pull) on anything you grab, unless you get full flat contact. That being said, I've never had problems removing items from this magnet

i bought one of these and it is just a touch underpowered to pull the cap off. It can more times than not. I'd say 70% of the time the cap comes off. Maybe a slightly stronger magnet will do it. I just don't want the cap to basically be stuck to the magnet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UV6ZPS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=m0494a-20&linkId=854952cfbd8f0399f224d4eaced910b9&language=en_US

Copied from the YouTube video

Maybe try a few of of these Neodymium magnets with command strips

Once could use a spade-bit to make a hole to countersink couterbored cup magnets flush with the surface, and then skim them with spackle and paint to match.

I used

1.26" Neodymium Cup Magnets (qty 2) from Amazon
3/4" Diameter Steel Ball Bearing (qty 1) from Amazon but only had a 6 pack

Magnets my man, magnets.

Get some Neodymium magnets and some GoPro stickies and you can mount just about anything

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JPZ42OA/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1498398608&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=CMS+Magnetics

Here's. The link for anyone https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UV6ZPS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=m0494a-20&linkId=854952cfbd8f0399f224d4eaced910b9&language=en_US

You can, in a 2D-plane.

https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GCJD3XAJ6ZZP502H7QW9

This is the magnet I used for the same style of display. rated to hold ~33lbs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181LX5Q0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OdB4Ab5NX3NSM

The jury is still out on the magnet that catches the caps, I haven't drank enough since I made them.

To attach to the fridge


To catch the caps

Link to the magnetic paper : https://www.amazon.com/Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Field-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS

http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Retrieving-Holding-Eyebolt-Magnetic/dp/B000CP2PG0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462897624&sr=8-2&keywords=large+magnet

I'm of a similar mind; I have two major magnets I carry, a 173 and 405 pound lifts. Personally, I started with the 173, because it was cheap, but as others have said, sub-200 can be a little anemic depending on what you find.

Thus, I upgraded to the 405. What I find myself doing regularly is using the 173 more often because it's smaller and more maneuverable, and whipping out the 405 when I find something I'm slipping off of.

The magnets I have:
https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Holding-Neodymium-Eyebolt/dp/B01GZDNVQ0/ref=pd_sim_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9ZPMWKNZED7074CY8PZT

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JPZ42OA?psc=1

Found

https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS/

Ten bucks and you can have one too! Magnetic Viewing Film

magnets bruh

Amazon to the rescue

http://www.amazon.com/BYKES-Neodymium-Extremly-Powerful-Refrigerator/dp/B0084UASJQ/ref=pd_sim_indust_5

Magnetic Viewing Film

It's also not that expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UV6ZPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VaBYCbS1RMHNB

long term investment.....

Not sure, but it's sold by CMS Magnetics. Got it here

I don't think that you can buy just the bare magnetic holder, but just a simple neodymium magnet bar would do the trick. Add a little insulation on the remote side so that the remote comes off the magnet rather than the whole thing lifting off the surface.

I checked the obvious solution not really expecting success, but there it is!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JPZ42OA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MOvTBbS46NH6E is what I use plus paracord. No permits needed in most places.

So, interestingly, you can actually see magnetic fields in THREE dimensions. Yeah, 3d. How so? They're called ferrocells. Here's an imgur album http://imgur.com/gallery/xQRYH

I can actually explain how this happens, too. It's called "Field incommensurability." Take a north and south pole of a magnet, they're "located" there right? Nope, if you could split the magnet in half there would be TWO north and TWO south poles on each side of the magnet. Split it again, there will be a north and south pole on each piece, every single time. This is an example of field incommensurability.

Now, when you take that magnetic viewing film and place two magnets side by side you'll see the white plane self-center itself around the two magnets.

What's actually happening is that when a magnet reaches another magnet and comes in contact, it becomes ONE entity - one magnet. So at that end with the singular one it's actually going to a new "end" of the magnet, as the entirety of the magnet becomes one big, long magnet.

Field incommensurability is where fields are non-point-specific, and are not LOCATED at somewhere, they are FORCED there, or are a pressure mediation to that spot. Think of it like water flowing down a hill, it's forced to be at that location.

I did something similar, but instead just stuck the magnets on the inside of the metal lid, which needs no glue.

Edit: BTW I chose these magnets.