(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best artist painting supplies

Get a respirator with gas/vapour filters, the amount of paint you'll see on the filters after just a couple of uses will justify it! I got this kit: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/3M-6000-Half-Mask-Airbrushing-Pack-3M6000ABK.html and am happy with it!

I sprayed without it a couple of times and felt light headed afterwards, and was blowing paint out of my nostrils for a while after, I always use the mask since.

Because of the cats, an extracting painting station is a good idea if you can paint near a window or other outlet for the pipe, but you'd want to self build one with a really meaty fan (sealed bathroom extractor), as the generic kits you can buy tend to have a very low flow computer fan in them that simply doesn't do anything at all.

I have this: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Spray-Booth-Extraction-Filter/dp/B0050BQQUW

And the fan just is nowhere near strong enough. For now I run a normal household fan pointing at the painting area which is right next to an open window.... and hope for the best! At some point I will replace the fan as it really is not good enough right now.

At the very least, a cardboard box to catch overspray is a must.

As for the airbrush itself, I got this kit and its excellent https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JAJTKWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the compressor and tank are absolutely great, the airbrush is cheap but very cheerful, I may get another for more precise work later but for now it's plenty! Make sure to remove the plug from the bottom of the tank after every use to let condensation drain out and avoid rust.

Useful accessories:

• Cleaning pot: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01JRON3UI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  You spray cleaner through the airbrush into this pot as its a harmful chemical when atomised, the pot catches and collects the liquid cleanly and safely. Has a filter where the air comes out.
  
  
• Cleaning solution: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002X6BNYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Thinner: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002X6DTHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Add a couple drops before adding paint to the cup on the brush, then stir together. Makes your paint go further and apply neater - always thin your paints :)
  
  
• A turntable is helpful if you want to varnish using airbrush (would recommend). I got one bundled in with the extractor station.
  
  I hope that's all helpful :)

Long post incoming....

So, I don't think I've seen many airbrush discounts. Badger did a nice promotion where you could buy any airbrush for $55 for their 55 year anniversary this summer, but other than that it's kind of hard to find discounts. As far as Prime Day, I doubt they're going to have discounts on airbrushes, that's a pretty niche product they don't really get into. If you want to get started with that, I'd do something like this:

• Paasche D3000R Compressor this is the one I use... it's held up over the past 10 years quite well, painted some ~12,000 points of Marines, Guard, Knights, and Chaos with it.
  
  
• Iwata Neo Airbrush Iwata airbrushes rock... I use an Iwata HP-CS, which is really good, but like 3x more expensive than this. This would be a good starter brush that should do the job though.
  
  
• Airbrush Hood You can put this on your desk and you just spray into it. It has a fan which pulls paint dust through the filter in the back, very important to prevent you from breathing paint and getting colored dust everywhere.
  
  You then need a cleaning pot, some cleaning fluid, and an airbrush hose All told, that's like $300.
  
  Then you need paint, paint brushes, a hobby knife, super glue, a mini hand drill, some small drill bits, sprue cutters, basing materials (cork board, model railroad ballast, etc) and I find a pair of tweezers helpful. That could add up to another $200 in materials (and obviously can cost way more, paint is expensive). So of your $550 budget, you would then have $50 remaining for models... which will buy you one model kit. So if you're looking to get started for $550, I'd probably forget the airbrush for now, and just get paints that can be used with one later. I recommend Vallejo paints. The eyedropper bottles work great for airbrushing, and you can just thin them with water. I haven't met one yet that doesn't work. A paint set like this would set you up nicely for doing an Imperial Guard army.
  
  As far as what army to play... Guard is fun, but if you like the modern military aesthetic, Space Marines might be more what you're after. The new Repulsor Executioner tanks look awesome, and the new Primaris marines are great looking models... some of the best GW has produced. The Guard kits are looking kinda... dated IMO.

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

Looks like there is no size 2 in that set, but it still would be fine to get because there are a variety of small sizes, so you can decide what you like to use. If you don't like them, it'll be okay because when you do decide to buy nice brushes, you'll know more what you like and want.

I hope you don't mind my saying, but if you'd rather get something someone else has tried, then I recommend these. I got them for Christmas, because there were so many good reviews, and have not been disappointed. They're holding up way better than the citadel brushes I bought, too.

They're not the best quality (two of mine came with warped handles and I had to trim the tips of some), however I recommend them because I use them all the time now.

They have sharp points, they don't splay out right away like the citadel ones did, in fact the bristles stay clumped together very well, I don't worry about wearing them out fast because they were cheap, using them is so smooth, it's great, and they hold a good amount of water and paint. As a bonus, they come with a carrying case!

Happy painting!

I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.

I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!

​

Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.

​

• Airbrush - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQKFAI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Compressor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDNKBMC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (One of the quietest compressors - I use it in the house and my gf can't hear it kick on, and she sleeps in the room right above it.)
  
• Airbrush Hose - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BF7NJ78/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Moisture Trap - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQO8WY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Couplers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TFE7WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Didn't need this big of a set, but if you end up with tools for the compressor they will come in handy.)
  
• Airbrush Cleaner kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3MG6Z4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Respirator - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Extra Filters - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTP9MDO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TJA0S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Thinner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X6DTHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Improver - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QD780G0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Primer I use for minis - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BMZVMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  For the compressor, I keep mine at about 18-20 while doing miniatures and it's perfect.
  
  I do 1 drop Improver, 5 drops thinner, and 6 drops primer and have perfect flow.
  
  ​
  
  Feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
  
  Hvstle

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

You wanna be the best fiance ever u/vickicamfield?

Get him one of these.

His neck will thank you, his hands will thank you, his precision will thank you. Probably the best purchase I've ever made for minis. You can snag em at most hobby shops.

​

Bonus, if he wants to do detail work I recommend a cheap set of reading glasses. He won't have to strain his eyes as much and they are a nice magnifying glass....es... you get the point lol.

​

PS: I recommend bright white light for better color recognition and more akin to natural light.

Edit: Also if he is thinning with water, get this. I find it works better than water and mixes with metallics!

Edit 2: For brush care, dont forget to get some brush cleaner and conditioner. Maybe a wet palette for longer paint sessions. For brushes, winsor and newton are always a solid choice.

Edit 3: Folks are asking for essentials. Here is a short list:Vallejo thinner
Masters brush conditioner
Wet palette
Kolinsky brushes
Mini holder
Liquid cement for plastics
Vallejo paints
Citadel paints
Warhammer TV
Cheap airbrush for prime/basecoat

Not that you're looking for advice or anything, but an easy way to add some real nice detail and durability to minis you actually use in play is to use what's called the "dip" method. Essentially you brush on or dip your mini into either a wood stain or special dip product like this

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Quickshade-Miniature-Painting/dp/B004UVVTXM#customerReviews

The dark pigment works its way into the nooks and crannies of the mini, then dries and makes the details really pop. Then you spray a light coat of spray matte varnish on the mini which takes off the gloss from the dip.

Not only does this give your minis some added depth but the two layers also protect the paint so it doesn't scratch or flake off, making them way more robust in actual play. Plus it's super easy so you could do all your minis in just an hour or two. Just some friendly advice.

I just went through this myself and am very happy with my purchases. This is a complete entry level set with the tools you will need to maintain it. Assuming you're US based, you could have everything Monday with Prime shipping.

• Airbrush - $27 - This is a basic brush with the ability to change between 0.2, 0.3(most common), and 0.5mm tips. This gives you the flexibility to go from precise to blanket applications.
  
  
• Compressor - $120 - I opted for a model with a tank to help regulate the air output. The compressor still ends up running most of the time during extended applications so I'm not sure how much it helps but I didn't want to take chances. You could save ~$40 by getting a model without a tank. You could always add a tank later if you feel the need.
  
  
• Cleaner - $12 - You need this before you even think about starting. One cleaner seems about as good as another so pick whatever.
  
  
• Tools - $7 - You will need to clean paint from the internals. Some of these brushes will work for that. There seems to be differing opinions in the community over how useful these are but I opted for them and use them every so often.
  
  
• Cleaning Pot - $15 - You will need one for your station and everyone uses this one. Definitely spray the cleaner through into this.
  
  
• Wash Bottle - $6 - 500 mL bottle you fill with water. This will allow you to rinse the pot at your station without having to go to a sink (though you still might use one often). Get a bucket or tupperware container to rinse into.
  
  This will allow you to setup a bare-bones station. You could also get a fume hood or just spray into a box in a well ventilated room. Get a good white led light (if you don't have on already) to illuminate your workspace and you're good to go.

I sincerely want to thank you for such a thorough reply! I would like to address some of your points so perhaps you can expand on them a little deeper when you have the time.

>You seem to have thinned your paints, so that's half the battle won right there. They look like they could be thinned a little bit more though, and perhaps load your brushes a little bit less.
>


I did thin the paints with small amounts of water as that seems to be the golden rule from having lurked on this sub for a few days before starting my painting, the difficulty I had this area was not really knowing how much/little to thin them and what the consistency was supposed to look like(admittedly I did not watch any youtube videos on the subject as I didnt even think about it).

>The most glaring issue I see is a lack of colour depth. Your shadows aren't particularly prominent or seem absent in some areas and there seems to be a complete lack of any highlights.
>


This was exactly what I was thinking when I was painting them and this stems from looking at the box art and thinking "wow these figures really "pop" the colors are not at all what I would expect a command team to have" and while I was painting I kept telling myself they needed to be brighter. As for shadows and highlights, I did apply nuln oil shader but I watered it down so much that it doesnt even look like its been applied. I was concerened it would make the minis too dark(i.e. the Domaru's shotgun). As for the highlights, One of the biggest issues/concepts I am having trouble wrapping my head around is the highlighting. I have watched a few videos of the procedure itself but I am having trouble mixing paint to brighten it up for highlights and then where the highlights should be applied.

> Your neatness and thoroughness are pretty good. Could use a little work but fine for a beginner.
>


Thanks! I was actually working with a set of brushes that were recommended to me that ended up being sub par in my opinion and lacked the very small brushes that were needed to get some of the very fine details. I have started to educate myself on quality brushes and the sizing numbers on what they mean.

As for the color "blocks" that had not occurred to me so thank you for pointing that out, I will definitely keep that in mind for when I start working on the next group of my army. I am not quite sure how to get those subdued shades that are present on the box art but more practice will definitely help. Thank you again for your reply!

1. An Airbrush uses the same paints you would normally brush on. It thins them down and applies them in a similar way to using a aerosol spray can, but with a smaller spray patter and significantly more control.
   
   2.) Once you get the hang of it, you can do fades, highlights, preshading, base coating and priming in a fraction of the time it would take to do with a normal brush.
   
   You also use a LOT less paint when applying base coats and primers. Less than half of an $8 bottle of Vallejo grey primer has done over 200 space marines for me!
   
   3.) If you're in the US, Amazon has a package deal that gives you a brush, compressor, and cleaning supplies for $300! That's a really good deal, and will save you a lot of money on paint in the long run.
   
   4.) You need to thin your paints to use an airbrush, GW and Vallejo make airbrush paints that are almost 100% "out of the pot" ready to be used. I really like them for both airbrushing and normal painting, they cost the same as regular paints do.
   
   If you're spraying lacquers or varnishes you absolutely want to use a respirator (that stuff is NASTY!). If you're just spraying regular acrylic paints, a face mask is usually enough.
   
   5.) Airbrushes aren't a "Easy Button" to painting. They take time to understand and become comfortable with, but that time is well spent. The internet is full of amazing tutorials on how to do awesome stuff with an airbrush.
   
   They also require constant cleaning to maintain proper function, it can be really daunting to take your brush apart for the first time.

I really like the Sotar 20/20 I got. I watched a few reviews on YouTube before buying one.

At first, I got a cheap $80 kit that came with a brush and small compressor, just to test the water, but using them were a pain. The brush would clog often, the paint was applied inconsistently, and the compressor was hard to regulate due to not having a PSI indicator.

I'd recommend splurging on a good brush, like the 20/20. Watch a few video reviews to see what you like. Iwata brushes were also highly recommended. If you go to a physical store, like Hobby Lobby, you might be able to find a coupon or discount. I heard Hobby Lobby has coupons for up to 50% off some expensive items, but I got mine online via Amazon card financing.

I'd also highly recommend getting something like this to make connecting/disconnecting easier. It's a minor thing, but it's so convenient I can't go back to screwing/unscrewing the hose manually.

Besides that connector, here are the items I got. I've been very happy with them and actively trying to find excuses to use them more.

• Airbrush
  
• Compressor

Great work especially for a first time job, what kind of ink did you use. you did a great job detailing this, you used a gold gundam marker right. You can use a q-tip and some isapropal alcohol to clean up the few smudges on it. Then again it adds to the weathering look as if it was discolored in re entry. This makes me want to try weathering on one of my Barbatos kits. The Barbatos has quickly become my favorite Mobile suit so have at least one each of the kits except for the high res. Then again the HGIBO has become my favorite line so I have at least one of each kit with the exception of color variants as I do not see the point.

Is this a 1/144 right?

He could use a little dusting thought, then again I should not be talking as I rarely dust stuff myself.

As for painting supplies, you can pick up set at Walmart for around 5-10 bucks. however you do want to get at least testors brand enamel paints. they are good paints that are reasonably priced for plastic model paints and very good.

You can get a testors hand paint set for around $10-15 bucks at Walmart that also comes with a single paint brush and a small bottle of brush cleaner. However, its not the best brush for detail work on gunpla as its meant more for car models. So you would still want to pick up a small pack of brushes from arts and crafts or party section. You do not need super expensive brushes to do good work. the most i have ever spent on a brush was about 8 bucks for this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CBC0PQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This brush's tip is the size of a ruler mark so it is great for lining a 1/144 scale kit.

Yo! I'm no expert, but I'm related to one and I think I can help a little bit.

The basic essentials are a sprue clipper, a model knife, and sandpaper. The wiki has links to those.

As far as painting/lining, there are a lot of options. I 'm pretty lucky in that I already had an airbush and compressor at my disposal, but I've been getting a lot of mileage out of this entry level airbrush. I have two of my own (metallic and non-metallic paints), plus a bevy of nicer badgers/iwatas from my old man.

The real big thing with airbrushing is that you're gonna need a compressor to go with it, as well. Make sure it has a moisture trap, like this one, or things can go very wrong very fast. (That's actually the one I use).

As for paints, the ones my old man recommends are Tamiya acrylics and Model Masters enamels. With the acrylics, I just spray directly on the cleaned part, whereas with the enamels, I use enamel primer first, and let that set before spraying. That's the quick and dirty version of it, though, since actual airbrushing involves mixing paint with thinner, cleaning everything all the time, etc.

As for lining, I like to use Prismacolor lining pens, but that gets expensive fast since they tend to clog up and need to be replaced VERY quickly. Otherwise, gunpla markers (see wiki) are good, and I recently got recommended Tamiya liner, though they recommend only using it over gloss paints or it will be impossible to apply cleanly to mattes.

Anyway, until you get a better answer from a more experienced builder, I hope this helps!

For hot chocolate, there are a number of fun, cute, and/or nice things you can do! I found this article that has ideas for a hot cocoa party, including a couple of recipes for homemade hot chocolate. You could maybe pick up some hot chocolate accompaniments to go in her stocking.

I'm also surprised no one has mentioned making her a mug! And by "making" I mean customizing, not actual pottery creation! Haha Here is a tutorial and although the markers are $12-ish on Amazon, if you have a Michaels craft store near you, they have 50% off coupons for 1 item almost every week if you get the paper or sign up for their emails. My local dollar store always has an assortment of plain white mugs, but I've also seen cool ones at thrift stores :) I plan to try this method on wine glasses I found at a thrift store for my secret Santa at work!

If she likes to be creative, you might also look for a magazine that caters to whatever it is she likes, like Martha Stewart, Better Homes & Gardens, and there's a bunch of less well-known ones I've seen at the craft store. I'm not sure, but I would assume a single issue would be less than $5?

As others have said, I strongly recommend this compresor. This is the one I used until I upgraded to an Iwata one. A tank is good because it's not only your first line of defense against any moisture build-up but it also prolongs the life of your compressor.

The reason I recommend the Iwata HP-C Plus is because it is pretty much the best all around airbrush. The size .3mm is perfect for gunpla. To priming, base coats and even pre-shading if you would like to do so. Iwata has a great community on airbrush forums and there's ton of documentation and parts for mods and customizing your airbrush to your own personal needs. This brush will last you a lifetime. I own a Iwata HP-C Plus and an Iwata CM-CP2 and I use the HP-C Plus for almost everything.

Keep in mind that you will also need to spend money on all kind of tools to aid you in the painting process such as skewers, alligator clips, something to put the pieces while you paint and while they dry, paint thinner and so on.

I really like this writeup as a jumping point for learning how to lube. There's also lots of helpful info in the comments, or you could just ask questions there. If you're looking for a specific video guide I'd recommend Krelbit's; IIRC he uses 3204 in it but the process is the same.

As for brushes, I like this pack from amazon. There's one in there that's the exact size of an MX bottom housing slider rail which is nice, but it also includes a bunch of smaller ones. Brush size is a preference thing so it's best to test a bunch IMO.

Speaking of testing, experimentation is SUPER important with lubing. Everyone has different preferences so it's good to try different amounts of lube on a few switches to see what it feels like. I'd recommend at least intentionally overlubing one switch to see what it feels like, then trying different combinations of lubing certain spots and not lubing others. e.g. I prefer to only lube my stems.

edit: Here's one specifically using 205g0: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5y5KoRFWXe8

Welcome to the subreddit! I think I can answer a couple of your questions about paint. Some people swear by doing it outside when the weather is nice, especially in the cooler months, where humidity and dust aren't as prevalent. I personally paint indoors. I picked up a paint booth from Amazon for under 80 bucks and it works great! I just vent the fumes outside through a partially opened window with the vent the booth comes with.

Paint booth from Amazon

As for preparing the body. I've always been told to wash and dry the parts involved first with soap and water, then allow to dry completely. You can accelerate this with a dust free cloth or hair dryer, pick your poison. Then sand the body with a 600 grit grade of sandpaper, rinse again, and wet sand (body and paper are wet with 1000-1200 grit) Once that's done, you're ready for priming. Model builders who are way better at this than me typically recommend 1-2 coats of primer, the color depends on the body color. So for bright colors, use a white primer. For darker colors, use a grey primer. After you've primed a couple times, its time to take the body and sand it again, with 1200 grit. Get it all smooth, then shoot the color. First three coats are mist coats, sprayed 10-12 inches from the model, very light coats. After that comes 2 or 3 wet coats, sprayed closer to the model, careful not to overpaint or you'll get dripping or pooling in some spots.

There are lots of forums for modelers, including this one. The mods here put together a painting FAQ you can see on the right side of this page. I like your truck! Looks great! I hope some of these answers help.

Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.

full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost https://imgur.com/a/5RE2d

STEPS

Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.

Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.

Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.


OVERALL TIPS

With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.

I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.

Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both

PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)

https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/7thl9p/iniki_boost_blackout_oil_based_sharpie_matte/

Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.

I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)



PRODUCT LINKS

Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU322DQ

Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QV7XIS

Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPXF6XG

Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5W4LX4

Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS

Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98
https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6

I airbrush all my bodies. I basically have this setup. IWATA is a decent brand. It's amazing what you can do with airbrushing as opposed to rattle cans. ALSO note that the createx paint is good for lexan. It's flexible and won't chip. You may need 5 or more coats if you're going for a good covering.

You really get what you pay for on what rig you go with. You want a nice easy to clean gun, a good solid compressor, so you maximize your time painting and not pissing around cleaning, changing psi's, spattering, needle centering, spray patterns. Try not to cheap out on it. You won't be sorry. I also built an indoor spray booth for <$100. But that's for another post.

Here and Here is first body I did freehand. I use liquid mask by the gallon....

GOOD LUCK!

Sure, this is the compressor, though I got it for much cheaper :
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Tankless/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=pd_lpo_201_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NWSYXNWF47C4ZZKDSX4H

And I started with one of these cheaper "master" brand air brush :

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Professional/dp/B002KJDXHQ/ref=sr_1_218?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1484064056&sr=1-218&keywords=badger+air-brush

Mine kept clogging though and I thought it was because I wasn't cleaning it enough, but really I was just a noob and wasn't thinning the paint enough. I followed all these complicated fucking guides on how to make my paint thinner and what to mix with it, and what to clean it with. Turns out the easiest solution was just straight dollar store rubbing alcohol. I ended up buying a nicer badger brush and havn't had any problem since, but I know the truth of it. I wasn't thinning down my paint, and when I was done, I wasn't cleaning it out with alcohol either.

Basically now when I want to change colors, I rinse out the cup, hit it with a paper towel to get out most of the paint, blast full blast with a full cup of water, easing on and off the needle action a few times during. Then I do a quarter cup of alcohol (I have a little cup thing I can spray it into so the alcohol fumes don't gas me out), again easing off and on the trigger to kind of work the action. Then I rinse it out once more and hit with paper towel again. Basically do the same thing to clean it when I am done.

Airbrush Booth - You really shouldn't breath in the fumes. If you are painting indoors, you should use something like this to capture and filter the overspray/fumes. This is in addition to wearing a mask. You will see people in youtube tutorials not wearing masks and not using a booth - it's really bad practice if you care about your brain cells. I like the one below, but the fan is louder than the compressor.

80$ on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush®-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$20- Paint mask/respirator - See notes above. I use one designed for spray painting.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-07192-Paint-Spray-Medium/dp/B0002STR22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469825823&sr=8-1&keywords=Spray+paint+mask

Airbrush - I recommend starting cheap until you get a hang of it. It's easy to damage parts. It's been a while since I've researched, so I apologize for having forgotten the terms. You want an airbrush that is fed from a cup on top (gravity fed?), a trigger to control the air separately from the paint (maybe called dual action?), and needles .2 to .5mm. This airbrush came with a quick connect (to snap on and off of the compressor hose), which is a big convenience. They are cheap if you need to buy separately.
$30 https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated/dp/B004KNDQMM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$10Airbrush cleaner fluid and brushes - to flush the airbrush and clean it after use.

$10- Airbrush cleaning pot - You spray cleaner and excess paint into this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H46T0O/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

90$ - Compressor with Tank - The separate tank is key, it will maintain constant pressure very well and provide good steady flow. This one is pretty quiet as compressors go, but still noisy enough that you need to work behind a closed door.
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_2

$10 - Airbrush hose- https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Braided-Air-Hose/dp/B004KNAH7E?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_5

All in, it cost me $250 before paint.

I recently bought a setup about a month ago so if you are in the US, I'd recommend the following:

• 1/5 hp Portable Airbrush Compressor with Tank $89.99
  
• 10'ft braided airbrush hose, 1/8" bsp aka Iwata $5.99
  
• Point Zero Dual Action Gravity Feed Airbrush with 0.2, 0.3, 0.5mm nozzle-needle sets and 1/8" bsp quick disconnect $23.99
  
• 20% discount for buying over $100 from this Amazon vendor
  
• Safety is very important! Portable Spray Booth $79.99 w/ Prime, not eligible for above discounts
  
• Comes out to about $175.96 before tax.
  
  I have the compressor, the hose, and the booth and they've worked great for me so far. Honestly, you save on shipping vs. the Master Brand and mine came preassembled with the regulator installed. The Master Brand ones are notorious for having regulators that you screw in and they end up tilted to the side. In fact I think people in this sub have pointed this flaw out (there's a better link with pictures, I just can't find it). Items were shipped promptly and got here in one piece. You also get the discounts if you buy a certain amount from them.
  
  I actually have an Iwata NEO that I got from Amazon for about $40ish. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I like airbrushing or not. Honestly, I wish I had gotten the PointZero brush just as a cheap intro dual-action brush.
  
  I think someone on this subreddit once pointed out that an airbrush is like a regular brush, just powered by air. They weren't kidding. It takes time to master. If you have the money to spend on a fancy >$100 airbrush like the Krome, then less of your time will be spent trying to master the idiosyncrasies of your brush. But it doesn't change the fact that it takes practice to be able to lay down really smooth, thin coats consistently.
  
  I don't know how busy you are as a student, but it can be time consuming to set everything up, test your spray conditions, mix your paints, actually paint, and then clean everything up. If you find you like the process, then you can invest in a better brush in the future and keep your old one for laying down primer or base coating.
  
  But there's nothing wrong with OOB snap builds if you find that's your thing.
  
  edit: for link formatting mistakes, and also to say that I'm not very experienced yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  edit 2: My other regret is not considering compressed CO2. I live near a welding supply shop and a restaurant supply shop that both sell compressed CO2 cylinders. A 10 lb tank with high pressure regulator would have been around $120 and then some for converters or extra regulators. People on the fine scale forums claim that a 10 lb tank could last months for airbrushing and it's only $17 to refill at either shop. Would have been perfect too for carbonating beverages for homebrew purposes. Just another option to consider. Definitely do not buy the Badger compressed air cans. They don't last long enough.

Well I am by no means an expert but here is what I got:

Paasche Talon TG-3f - It does the job. I am not painting eyes with it, mostly priming, and wide cloak and base colors.

I too had a compressor but needed to grab a Water Trap the compressor I have is super load and not 'made' for airbrushing 'per se'. So I need to regulate the water in the paint.

Then get a bottle of Air Brush Thinner. You can then use any paint you want through it (make it much thinner than normal skim milk painting consistency).

I did pick up some airbrush paints to practice with on cardboard and canvas ... figured the more I use it the better I will get. My intent is to use Vallejo Black/White primer through it. Save me from having to use so many cans of spray paint.

edit Also should mention a couple videos that influenced me/I am using to learn from: Tons of airbrushing stuff later in the video of this BIG resin kit, Tested beginners guide, more resin kit with an airbrush, and just for giggles how to clean it which in my humble opinion is the largest deterrent of the process.

Testors Matte spray, I assume? You said I should do matte followed by gloss, but I read that I should do gloss (for durability) followed by matte (for non-shiny appearance). Which is best?

I may have to go with Vallejo paints if I can find them, as they're frequently recommended and come in droppers (which I think will be less fuss).

I read that cheap brushes will be more frustrating than they are worth, and since my free time is scarce, I planned on using nicer brushes. What would you recommend for a cheap brush set that's not a pain in the ass? Something like [this on Amazon, $15] (https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Paint-Brush-Set-Watercolor/dp/B010QLOJ3G)?

Edit: Looks like list may not be showing so here are the components:

Airbrush: Iwata Plus C dual action
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I9WXOKVZTYMO3

Compressor: Not sure which one to get?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AQK78/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I10JZK102OKEGV

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=IOQHMHZT48RDP

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001738DXU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I3DYP4EJGJ9917

Spray booth:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I2LP8DLJI9UTR9


I'm currently in a studio apartment and in med school so obviously I'm tight on a lot of things, but I would like to get into airbrushing.

I've heard the iwata was good, but I'm confused about the compressors b/c I want something quiet so I chose a couple (two of them look to be the same). Also, instead of making a spray booth I wanted to save time and just get a pre made one.

If I order the iwata, a compressor (Are the ones I've chosen any good?), and a spray booth will I be set? Since I live in a small apartment I'm planning on using acrylics to be safe. Just to clarify, I've read the faq and other threads about airbrushing but wanted to see if this particular setup is any good.

Yep, takes 5 minutes to make one with household items and you'll be glad you did.

Recommend a flat-bottomed Tupperware (tm) or similar container... some of these food storage containers have a depressed "channel" on the bottom and that makes the water pool in those areas, reducing the amount of actual usable palette.

But otherwise, yep, they make an enormous difference - as does learning to brush the excess paint from the bristles after loading them, BEFORE touching it to the model!

Also: using high quality brushes for detail work. Sable hair is da best! Expensive, but the results speak for themselves. No need to go high quality for base coating or drybrushing, cheapo brushes will work fine for those. I use this brush for my detail work and love it to death: https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Miniature-Watercolor/dp/B000OL5L7C

Also: clean your damn brushes! Get this stuff, and wet your brush, and then brush it back and forth on the surface of the soap and rinse. Repeat 2-3 times with warm water and your brush should be super soft and restored to its original lustre: https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM

So... There are only two of these left, partially because I already shared it to our local group.

Set of 8 sables slashed down to $30. I ordered a set myself and they are very nice. Not like Winsor Newton Series 7 nice, but very nice.

Best Professional Siberian Kolinsky Sable Detail Paint Brush, Value Set of 10, High Quality Miniature Brushes Will Keep a Fine Point and Spring, For Watercolor, Oil, Acrylic, Nail Art & Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F2I29LM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ea3yybABVZ4E0

I appreciate all the help! The Krome seems a lot cheaper, but the Iwata sure is getting a lot of praise. I'm leaning towards the Iwata atm...

This is the HP-C Plus right?
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1478587306&sr=1-1&keywords=iwata+hpc+plus

Also, could you please link me a .2mm needle/nozzle? I couldn't seem to find any. Thanks so much! :)

Thank you!

I've used the The Army Painter inks, I've got a kit on amazon

I made everything using those inks, washes and a regular miniature brush from this regular set

I've focused on having areas of high contrast to make the mini more interesting

​

I borrowed my Aunt's airbrush just to test it so I tried in the Bat, but since it's a cheap airbrush and sometimes it clogs I've only used to give a base coat of dark red, then I went back to the basic brush

​

Im glad you liked, it makes me happy :D

I don't know if they're the cheapest but I buy most of my paints from Miniature Market. Vallejo paints are $2.89 and shipping is usually $6 if your order is less than $99 (otherwise it's free). They have a pretty wide selection so you can pick and choose whatever you'd like. Reaper and Army Painter are a little cheaper per pot. Going this route might end up slightly (like a few dollars) more expensive than buying a bundle with Prime shipping, but you'll only get paints that you actually wanted. IF you're like me and end up buying a bunch, keep a spreadsheet to track which colors you already have. I've ended up with a few duplicates before I started tracking things better. Plus, you can pick up some inks, which if you follow someone like Sorastro (who will eventually be doing a Kingdom Death series), play a big role.

I'd also recommend you get a can of Army Painter Quickshade. The can isn't too big but it will last a long, long, time.

If you're planning on doing more minis, don't mind spending a few bucks, and really want a quick easy way to shade for tabletop without having to mix your own washes, Army Painter's Strong Tone Quick Shade is awesome.

Put on with a brush, soak up some of the extra that drips onto the base, enjoy your awesome-looking, shaded mini. :)

Looks awesome. It looks like you got some of the rivets, but a nice little tool I've recently found is this little pen. It's been super helpful and really makes the small details pop.

Disclaimer: In this video I'm lubing a linear switch but if you're lubing a tactile switch, you might want to skip lubing the legs of the stem and the leaf bumps, because this decreases the tactility of the switch.

This video shows what I do when I lubricate keyboard switches with grease and a paintbrush. This video can even help someone who doesn't know anything about lubing keyboard switches and just wants to see what it involves and how they could get started.

​

I will go slowly in the video, trying to be sure you can see what I'm doing.

​

My choices of where to apply lube are based on experience and on the results of an experiment I did and documented here:

https://imgur.com/gallery/hijSYcp

​

I wanted to show 2 different ways to open the switch, using a special opener tool or using regular tweezers. Both methods work fine.

​

The grease I typically use for this method is Tribosys 3204, which you can purchase from keyboard vendors such as switchmod.net, novelkeys.xyz, 1upkeyboards.com, etc. Other greases I like to use are Krytox 205g0 and Christo Lube MCG 129.

​

Tools:

Painbrush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4EG6D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Tweezers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPFQHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

4 Prong Pick-Up Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3KZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Switch Opener tool: https://kiiboss.studio/products/kiiopener_mx.html

​

In case you are opening Halo switches or BOX switches: https://kiiboss.studio/products/kiiopener_kailh.html

​

Acrylic switch holder / modding station: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=525320012520

​

Or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Keyboard-Axis-Board-for-Machanical-Keyboard-Black-Axis-Blue-Brown-Red-Gray-Green-White-Axis-Acrylic/32802439596.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.37e34c4dgCIZli

​

A 3d printed option: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3294929

I purchased this guy for $64.82. It was an Open Box unit on the Amazon Warehouse Deals. Literally, still shrink wrapped, just in a different box. No damage. Usually a $200-250 air compressor. I was given my first airbrush (my daily driver) as payment during a commission. It is a Badger Patriot 105. I was intimidated by it for over a year and then I decided to jump head first one day and honestly, I haven't looked back. Only regret was not starting sooner. Amazon has the Badger Patriot 105 on sale for $75. At the beginning of the year Badger Airbrush company ran a Happy 54th Birthday Sale and I picked up the Badger Renegade Krome for $54 haha. It retails for $200-250 but Amazon has it on sale for $102. I have yet to use this guy yet, but I am nearing the end of a project and I am going to give it a whirl in a couple weekends. The Airbrush hose for the badgers are listed as well.

My Compressor:

Alternative Compressor 1

Alternative Compressor 2

My 1st Airbrush

My 2nd Airbrush

Compressor Hose


With that being said, you can find deals ALL OVER THE INTERNET....you just have to look for them. I am always scowering the web for the best deals possible haha. For the past 3 years I have been using a 5hp construction grade pancake compressor with a moisture trap. Let me tell you....I REGRET not upgrading to an airbrush compressor much sooner. The air is more consistent, you can fine tune the correct PSI and it is exponentially more quiet. I personally don't care about the tank feature, but that is a personal preference.

Hope this helps you all :D

-B

If you are in the US I would recommend the badger airbrushs I have had great luck with mine.

I think the one I have is:

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-R1V-Renegade-Velocity/dp/B0013NBQLA/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1526884557&sr=8-13&keywords=Badger+airbrush

Get a gravity feed airbrush, they require lower psi to work and are just easier.


For a compressor get one with a tank it will give a nice consistent air flow. Something like this is a decent starter compressor:


https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-HP-Airbrush-Compressor-Portable/dp/B004KNDQCM/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526884681&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=Badger+airbrush&psc=1

I use a brush called "The Psycho"

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargamer-Brush-Psycho/dp/B009CBC0PQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491323909&sr=8-1&keywords=army+painter+psycho

I know it's probably more difficult to just hand-paint all of the small details, but I enjoy the precision practice, and whenever I paint it's with friends so I don't mind when it takes a while to get something done. I feel more accomplished getting it done by hand and exercising patience in the process.

I also use a slightly larger brush called "Insane Detail" for things that are small but would be too tedious with "The Psycho"

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargamer-Brush-Insane/dp/B0027SAYW2/ref=pd_sim_21_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0027SAYW2&pd_rd_r=1AE9WPGVCPTFD2D47MBC&pd_rd_w=f6p0n&pd_rd_wg=V83HV&psc=1&refRID=1AE9WPGVCPTFD2D47MBC

Thinning your paint will help! I use a drying retarder to extend workability of the paint on a model.

https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Slow-Dri-Retarder-Effects/dp/B004M559I2/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1500388700&sr=1-1&keywords=paint+retarder

Also! Try using Shades! They'll really bring out the recesses of the models! If you're not comfortable with them, you can also try something like a dip! Very easy to do models quickly! (Thin it a bit with a mineral spirit, though.)

https://www.amazon.com/The-Army-Painter-Strong-Quick/dp/B004UVVTXM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1500388817&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=quick+shade+army

Cheers!

I am very amateur, but I highly recommend Strong Tone Quickshade, that stuff is amazing and was the easiest part of the process. This is how they came out.

https://www.amazon.com/Virtuoso-15-Piece-Paintbrushes-Handmade-Detail/dp/B01M3PSN8T/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1481925113&sr=1-2&keywords=detail+brush+set

You would think these would be bad for being so cheap, but if you take care of them they'll last a decent amount of time, and won't break the bank. You'll be surprised at how much easier it gets with the right brushes. Keep going and you'll keep improving!

I got this bundle of compressor and iwata HP-CS from amazon for just a bit over 300.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BO4X8Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

I've used it for priming, base coating and highlights for my tzeentch horrors so far and it's running fantastic at 20-25 psi.

I haven't used the paints it comes with but the cleaning pot, stir sticks and medicine cups for mixing the paint is a great added bonus!

I bought a set of 10 Kolinsky Sable brushes off of Amazon, which came with sizes from 5/0 to 8. I've done all of my painting so far with just the 1 & 2 and haven't even touched the others yet. The points have held well, no hooking and only the occasional stray hair.

​

As someone else with shaky hands, I find proper bracing of my hands helps a lot (as does my gut). Elbows in, forearms braced on my sides/ribs. Left hand holds model holder, right hand first three fingers (thumb, index, middle) hold the brush, the other two touch my left hand to help steady my hands relative to one another.

Thanks for the input everyone, I think I'm going to go with the iwata hp-cs once I get the money. I found this bundle on amazon which comes with the iwata and compressor and seems like a pretty good deal. Thoughts?

> I saw on BGG about wash painting them. How hard is that?

Pretty easy. Buy a wash, slather it all over your minis, let them dry for a day or two, done. If you're totally inexperienced with painting, your best bet for this is probably Army Painter Quick Shade. You just dip the minis in the pot and that's it. Make sure you check out examples of the results before you commit to the quick shade variant over the traditional brush on wash.

> Also, if I do that then decided later to try and actually paint them will I be able to over the wash?

Yes, definitely. Washes are designed for you to be able to paint over them. You can either paint over it directly, or I'd recommend stripping them with simple green and giving them a base coat from a rattle can spray primer. You may even want to do this before you wash them in the first place but it's not absolutely necessary.

For the Model Color, use the Thinner Medium. You just need 1 or 2 drops of this thinner for a drop of Model Color. Too much will make your paint have a watery/runny consistency.

On the other hand, use the Airbrush Thinner for the Model Air. It works best with a Retarder Medium. Vallejo's air brush thinner is quite tricky to use though. You have to get the right paint to thinner ratio that will work best with your air brush. Try out different combinations on an old kit or a plastic sheet before painting your models.

EDIT: There's also an air brush flow improver from Vallejo.

Thank you. I will say that it definitely helps to practice a lot and have good materials. Learning how to highlight a face is a must and there are a ton of videos and tutorials about that. I recommend a good set of brushes (about 2-3 different sizes), I use thePsycho by Army painter and I have used it for the last 2 years for those fine details. I am also beginning to use a wet palette which helps create layers, I usually do about 3-4 different shades. Finally, using a set of magnifying lenses helps a lot. I can give more details, but those are the biggest tips I can give.

A Master Airbrush compressor from amazon is my main work horse. It's got a tank so you won't have a buffeting effect from a tankless compressor. Those run about $60-$70.
I personally use a harder and steenbeck infinity airbrush but the Iwata Neo or a Badger renegade chrome works great too. With the size of mini's we're using a gravity fed airbrush is what you're looking for rather than a siphon fed since we don't really need to keep a whole bunch of paint in the reservoir.
Last recommendation from me is when you're done painting for the day, store your airbrush "wet", which means fill a cup full of water and submerge the airbrush in the cup until you use it next. This keeps any paint that you missed while cleaning from drying out and clogging the brush. Also a good investment is a cleaning kit, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ABEST-Airbrush-Cleaning-Repair-Stainless/dp/B00UFBJGRM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527782597&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush+cleaning+kit

I've never spray painted before but I want to get a set up for life so I don't have to rebuy anything, after reading a lot of posts here I've decided to get the Iwata Medea C+
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493708624&sr=8-1&keywords=iwata+c%2B

I'm still a bit confuse on what other tools I need to get started, I'm not sure what to air compressor to get but I would like to get one with a tank so that it doesn't make noise, or doesn't have to constantly be on.

I think I may also need a spraying booth so the paint won't linger in my work room. If anyone can guide me on what to get for a complete set up or if a different brush might be better that would be great

tyty

Someone posted a great set of videos by a guy who is a real "no-nonsense" airbrusher. His thought is that you use lacquer thinner (basic cheap stuff from a hardware store) to clean EVERYTHING. Even acrylics. Going with that approach I don't think it really matters.

I mostly spray acrylics and the Allclad stuff (which is Lacquer), but have used some enamels without any issues. Just thin it with actual proper thinner, and don't waste the good thinner on cleaning the thing.

Not sure about the Paasche, but the Iwata's are similar quality wise I think, and they all have seals that can handle any of the solvents, so the brush itself won't have an issue with any of the paints.

With any "kit" I think you are making tradeoffs. I would spend the money on a good brush, double action (whatever your preference for brand). I have found the .3mm needle size (some are .35) to be the most versatile. Iwata HP-C can be had for $150 or so. I am sure Paasche has a similar one.

For compressor I have been very happy with this one which was pretty inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am sure you can get a better one, and with any of these "knock-offs" there are some risks as quality control may not be as consistent with the brand name ones. Compressor will have a much smaller impact on your quality of life than the airbrush itself. If you eventually got tired of the lower volume tank and too much running, or wanted something fancier or quieter, or if it ends up crapping out after a coulle of years you can trade up. As long as it holds pressure, and has a reasonable regulator and water trap, the compressor itself won't give you any problems until it dies. A cheap airbrush, on the other hande, will be miserable and frustrating every time you use it. Or worse, will be fine up until the point that it spits out a gob of stuff in the middle of an almost perfect paint job (speaking for a friend of course ;-) )

I have this compressor, which I got as part of this kit. I'm only a beginner with the airbrush, but I highly recommend both. The compressor delivers a steady stream of air and doesn't heat up or make serious noise. I can easily use it at night without disturbing anybody even across the hall in my house.

Like OneWhoGeneralises said, GW's paints need to be thinned a lot. They're very thick for an airbrush to begin with, and tend to clot up even more as they dry out over time. I had a lot of trouble at first using mine without clogging up the airbrush. i can do it now, but mostly use Vallejo Air. I also found that Jay Adan video really helpful.

Thank you! I painted it with a white oil-based sharpie - Link (But I got a single one from wal-mart for something like $2.50

This was all done free hand, I didn't plan anything out or sketch beforehand/etc. You can tell when you look fairly close that there are some drips and unintended splotches that I just worked into the design. I knew that if I planned it out beforehand I'd over-think everything and I would never actually paint it!

I get a ton of mileage out of a set of Virtuoso brushes I bought on eBay Amazon (sorry, brainfart) for like no money. There's an assortment of flats, round, and liner brushes that are great for detail - some are size 2 or 3, large enough for coverage, some are 1, 0, 00, perfect for precision work. I've been using them for about 3 years now and they're just starting to need replacement. Pretty good for what I think cost $15 to start with.

Edit: found the link, they're $20 now, but still worth it in my opinion

I've been using these and they're great - good tools make you value them, and go that extra length to make sure that they're looked after.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Detail-Paint-Brush-Set-MyArtscapeTM/dp/B010QLOJ3G/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=sspa_mw_detail_0

i've got some all white NMD's and i've tried so hard to clean them. Washing machine, hand washing, jason markk, etc. Nothing works. they are still yellowing. never getting all white shoes again

What I did find is using an oil based white sharpie on the boost is MAGIC. (https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4) the boost looks brand new after a coat of it

I just bought my first setup about a month ago. One thing I bought when i rounded up supplies that i'm glad i did is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0768YF28G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It doesn't have to be this set, but get two bottles like this. Makes the clean up a breeze.

I use the small bottle for airbrush cleaner and the other with distilled water, the small nozzle helps get it out of the threads and guts.

One other thing, i'm not sure if you are in United States, but if you are Hobby Lobby has a basic Vellejo air color set with 40% discount coupon it was 12$ for 8 colors.

Don't bother with these, its useless crap IMO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFBJGRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/6eqshj/boost_whitening_mystery_grey/

post of what it looks like after

I would assume it looks fine long term because the oil would soak into the boost and keep it white until it got dirty again (vs. painting over it that would chip off), use a white oil sharpier - I think this is the right one. https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

/u/Ouranox /u/brokeandfamous would be great if you guys gave advice because I haven't personally done this yet.

Btw, you can use a hot air dryer to uncrease your NMD blocks as well, if you haven't seen that post yet :)

Ok, that's alot to comment on:

- For airbrushing, you actually want to dilute the paint with a thinner rather than just water (random example not an advertisement: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Air-200-Thinners/dp/B002X6DTHK/ref=asc_df_B002X6DTHK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309862953042&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7411493572982788503&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006595&hvtargid=pla-434590355698&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 ) as they change the properties of the paint in slightly different ways (you'll end up with more pooling and a less smooth coat with water). For brush painting, using water to dilute is fine.

The standard response on how much to thin is to get "the consistency of milk", which is always a bit of an odd way of looking at it. It'll also come down to how much pressure you're using (psi) and how far away your airbrush is, it's sort of a triangle of effects. I generally dilute with 1 part thinner to 2 part paint, bit I'm no expert.

- If you want to use green as your main colour go for it (I'm slightly biased, green is my favourite colour). Use a contrasting colour (such as the suggested grey) to pick out certain panels to give the models a bit of interest.

- Unless you have issues with close-up seeing I wouldn't say you need a magnifying glass. The croc clips are occasionally useful but be careful they don't leave dents in the model (i.e. clip to a less important bit or use a layer of padding).

Take your time when cleaning mold lines (especially when using a knife!!) - they're super annoying to find after you've already started.

- Another thing I'll mention is primer - the initial coat of paint on a model is recommended to be this as it has a slightly different chemical properties to stick to the model and provide a smooth surface for other paints.

You really should. Relatively cheap to get into.


Master Airbrush Compressor with Water Trap and Regulator, Now Includes a (FREE) 6 Foot Airbrush Hose and a (FREE) How to Airbrush Training Book to Get You Started https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BJFHAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IGoBCb7ZSM1K1


ABEST 3 Set Airbrush Spray Cleaning Repair Tool Kit Stainless steel Needle Brush Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UFBJGRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QHoBCbTPZHK9X

You can use any paints but you’d need to thin some. I use citadel, Vallejo model/air/mecha, scale 75, and army painter. They all flow through the brush with different amounts of thinner.

The above airbrush isn’t the best but it’s a good starter setup to try out airbrushing to see if it’s what you’d be into.

http://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Miniature-Watercolor/dp/B000OL5L7C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459461613&sr=8-2&keywords=windsor+newton+series+7

As a beginner you really should be fine just with an 0 until you get some big tanks etc, but if you have money burning a hole in your pocket go with an 1, 0, and 00. that will last you a while and they are very nice brushes. Dry brushing can be done with pretty much any cheap, small, flat brush from a local art store (if you have a joanns nearby you can often get stuff for 50% off with coupons.)

Once you really start to get into lots of bigger models

Fine tipped paint pen is your best option. The paint is pretty resilient so will show well into grinding.

For example, this box set contains almost all the colors you will ever need (other than specific ones). https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Painting-Bonus-Wargamer-Regiment/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1524496671&sr=1-4&keywords=army+painter

Obvious colors for these models - army green for the green armor, necrotic flesh for highlighting the armor, skeleton bone probably for the pants (may need to add a little brown depending on the color you like), and one of the flesh tones for the skin. They primarily used the dark tone (black) wash on the basically the entire model, I think we could do better. Recommend, flesh wash for skin, dark tone for weapon and armor crevices, and soft tone (brown) for the paints. Khaki pants and black detailing is just too much contrast for my taste.

Side note, Army painter's paint brushes are decent but there are other options. I recommend the Virtuoso paint brush set, that will give you every kind of brush you would need. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3PSN8T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The best thing for painting the boost is the sharpie oil markers
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4
Amazon.com: Sharpie Oil Paint MParker Bold White (35568 ...

I would recommend a battalion as well as an army book.

As for painting, I found it immensely helpful to paint the figures before I clipped them out of their brackets. The only thing would would need to pay attention to there is that you will need to add a small dab of paint to the spot that was attached to the bracket and you will need to know what pieces you are going to use and which you are not going to use. This was useful for me because you have something to hold on to as you paint (especially when detailing). It also allows you to paint areas that would be immensely hard to paint with any degree of detail or accuracy if the piece was already assembled.

Cheap brushes sets with which to paint:
Set 1,
Set 2, Set 3

Cheap Detail Brush: Brush

I use this http://www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products%C2%AE-Airbrush-Extractory/dp/B004ZH7RSM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420160560&sr=8-2&keywords=spray+booth when airbrushing. Works well for what you pay for it, suction is good and the filter catches most particles. Make sure you get a spare filter or two, they get clogged pretty fast.

Yeah, you can get away with even putting these in the wash. You can wrap them in a tied pillow case or preferably a mesh bag made for washing sneakers. Put the cycle on normal and put in a tide pod. Make sure to remove laces and inner sole (although I've left the sole in on accident with no issues). Don't put them in the dryer.

This should clean the fabric quite easily and most of the boost as well. These oil based paint markers do the trick. You can even fix some imperfections on the plastic part of the cage too if you're careful.

Great idea. I literally got my first set of bumpers today and they're all black Diamond Pros. I may give this a shot. When you said oil based paint pens, would those be something like these?
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000GOYAPQ/

Make sure you buy a hose if you buy a compressor without one (eg. if you buy used).

You will want to buy a respirator.

You can also jump-start his accessories list by including some cleaning supplies (spray-out pot, airbrush cleaner), as well as some paints/primer/topcoat (tamiya, mr color, vallejo, alclad ii, etc.).

I believe this can all be done with a budget of 300$ (assuming US). At this point, he could start spraying that day if he wanted.

EDIT: I use this Master Airbrush Compressor and the Iwata HP-CS airbrush. I've been happy with them so far, but I do wish I spent a little more on a compressor with a tank (as /u/7x13 recommends).

Cool, thanks for the reply. When I do chrome work I just used a silver sharpie but your work looks much, much nicer.

Edit: Found it on Amazon for those others that may be interested

It sounds pretty easy, was it? Has the paint held up?

Were these the pens?

Sharpie 37371PP Oil-Based Paint Markers, Fine Point, Assorted Colors, 1 Blister Pack with 5 Markers, Total of 5 Markers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOYAPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hyZBCb8WHEC48

Some folks just tip the handle of the brush and use it to transfer (personally I think that's a bit of a mess but could work in a pinch). You could probably use toothpicks or cotton swabs just as well as you just need something...

You could use a good brush but you need to be careful to avoid getting paint in the ferrule as that can damage the brush and it ultimately probably isn't worth it when there's cheaper / safer options.

I'd say grab a few cheap brushes and sacrifice them to the paint pot gods. They're really helpful for basing (applying PVA glue), transferring paint to pallets, whatever.

Don't sacrifice a more expensive nylon or sable brush as you should be able to get a bunch of cheap nylon brushes for $5 or so:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4EG6D6/ref=sxts_kp_bs_tr_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=sg8RE&pf_rd_r=9305E087JXWVP7GH3QN6&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00V4EG6D6&pd_rd_w=LaPb9&pf_rd_i=brushes&pd_rd_r=630f9240-898b-4d16-8b7a-8d86041a5674&ie=UTF8&qid=1538679271&sr=1

Based on the width of the '' '' '' spilled '' '' '' coffee, and the way it stays on nearly perfectly parallel tracks throughout the shape of the
'' '' '' stain '' '' ''

The fact that we have a deeper hue on the part of the '' '' '' stain '' '' '' near the pot, and a corresponding wide splotch, indicates the pressure on the beginning of a brush stroke. and then a lighter tail that breaks of into two parallel strokes, indicating OP quickly flicked up with the intention of making a steamy effect.

Based on the look of the mark I'd guess a flat or angular flat

In fact I would guess that you've been rough with your brushes. When you dry off a flat to aggressively you bend the bristles and sometimes a 'V' shape gets stuck in the brushes dry state. Which I'm guessing is what the brush you used to do this with looks like.

Here's a link to some new brushes, the one you used is clearly in need of replacement

and here's a guide on how to look after your brushes better

I'm gonna give this bullshit attempt at a post a 1/10 for effort. You'll have a more realistic fake stain if you blotch coffee with a paper towel and run the end between your finger tips to squeeze out actual liquid drops. The naturalization of your faked stain was the goal. You went over the top in your artistic efforts. Better luck next time though.

Thanks. I used a paint pen (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOYAPQ/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1406745010&sr=1&keywords=paint+pen) and it worked pretty well.

Is it worth getting an airbrush and air compressor? Would this air compressor and air brush be good? I've been interested in painting and building more complex kits and was wondering if I should make the investment.

You don't need airbrush cleaner, but it's cheap, lasts forever, and you'll want to have it around. You won't just use it to clean your airbrush, but anything you spill paint on, including yourself. It cuts through paint like nobodies business. So it's well worth keeping around.

I use GW paints and water them down with Airbrush Medium rather than water. Again, it's cheap and lasts freaking forever.

Ok thanks I'll look into that.

Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Marker-White-SN35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

??

If you are Canadian, a UK company called "The Society for All Artists (UK)" is selling a few W&N Series 7 Kolinskies on Amazon.ca for even less right now. I actually was looking at both sites earlier today and bought a size 1 and size 0 from amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000OL5L7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0013E68T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The size 0 is from the miniature line, the size 1 is from the normal watercolor line. $11.50 and $17.09 respectively. With free shipping and exchange rate factored in, this was a better deal.

Yep. A Badger Patriot 105 and whatever hobby compressor you can find for about $50 (with a water trap and regulator). The airbrush will be easy to use and clean, and the compressor will be fine. Something like this compressor:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Exclusively/dp/B001BJFHAW

There are about a million little compressors like that one out there. It's $70. This is $80:

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO

Bam, $150. 8)

I wouldn't recommend anything cheaper than those, but you may be able to find them on sale if you look around a bit.

You can get a tankless one .

It runs near constantly and can heat up. They are not ideal, but can do the trick for small jobs. I tend to work on my models for an entire day once a week, so I have one with a 3L tank.

If you got the super cheapie one there for $60 you could get the Badger 105 and you would probably have a little bit left over.

There is also this one. It is cheaper, so I really can’t speak to it’s quality.

Here's my Airbrush History

• 8 Months Experience in Airbrushing (5 Completed Kits & 1 WIP)
  
  
• Started with Iwata NEO CN as my 1st Airbrush.
  
  
• My 1st Compressor was the Master Airbrush w/ Hose & Regulator.
  
  
• Painted 2 kits using the above Airbrush & Compressor using Tamiya Acrylics thinned with 1:1 91% ISO Alcohol. The 2 Kits are MG Strike Freedom & MG Nu Gundam.
  
  
• Bought a 2nd Airbrush which is the Master G23, I personally like it better than the Neo and it even came with 3 Needles and it was cheaper than when I bought the Neo.
  
  
• Painted 2 kits using the Master G23 & Master Compressor is still the same; Used Mr. Color Paints thinned w/ Leveling Thinner. Painted kits we're 1/35 Hi Nu Bust & MG Unicorn Gundam
  
  
• Currently working on a kit using the G23, Master Compressor & Mr. Color paints. Kit is the MG Sword Impulse.
  
  
• I started wearing a Mask, which is the MSA Safety Works Mask cause that shit smells like shit.
  
  
• Got a Spray Booth since I started painting inside. Generic Airbrush Spray Booth
  
  That's pretty much it from my personal experience... If you have any questions let me know and I'll try to answer it for you.
  
  Best part is the total for my Airbrush/Compressor Combo's I both bought under $100.
  
  COPY PASTED FROM MY RESPONSE ELSEWHERE

model masters flat black.
also if you wanted to try a chrome look these are pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7EFSVU/

It will probably be fine, but if you want to ensure that a signature is permanent, use a paint marker instead of a normal Sharpie. It's expensive, but it is guarantueed permanent. It uses an oil based paint instead of standard marker ink, and you'll never wipe that stuff off.


Why a laptop though? Seems like an odd thing to have someone sign.

Iwata HP C Plus airbrush

It is a great airbrush to start with. You need to spend some money because if you go too cheap you will not be able to do fine detail work.

http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449370777&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+airbrush

I am by no means a tiny figure painting expert, but I primed mine and then used thinned acrylics in layers (not quite drybrushing, but not far from it either).

This brush is a godsend for pilots: https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-BR7014-Wargamer-Brush/dp/B009CBC0PQ/ref=sr_1_1?srs=7513501011&ie=UTF8&qid=1479924643&sr=8-1&keywords=brush

And after you finish putting on paint, use an ink wash (i used Citadel Nuln Oil) to bring out extra texture/detail!

Thanks, good tip. Was planning on getting this from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6

Just picked this one up and is easily my new favorite :http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-BR7014-Wargamer-Brush/dp/B009CBC0PQ/ref=pd_sim_21_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31FVNPsPVVL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=01J1J8QXPE6VK2FXDEBP

otherwise I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargamer-Insane-Detail/dp/B0027SAYW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1465105608&sr=1-1&keywords=wargamer+insane+detail

Great job for your first time.

Also, can't go wrong with this brush. Get the #00 size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OL5L7C/ref=yo_ii_pd_dx_gc_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=11REzLdorfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C6_&psc=1&refRID=5F5DJJ2M74C7QP6YJM2H

I did this guy with it... https://i.imgur.com/i9WTUCy.jpg

I'm pretty new to airbrushing but I recently got this airbrush and I found it suits my needs. I wanted a compressor that had a tank so I had steady airflow, a regulator, and a water trap and this unit has all three for a reasonable price. At first I went to hobby lobby too but I found all their compressors were pretty expensive even after the discount. So, I don't have any recommendations from the list but the point zero compressor is solid for the price.

Sure, here it is on amazon:

Moloto Liquid Chrome

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_pve4BbEQ8EQP4

Looks like they have different size tips, I was able to get the 1mm one at hobby shops near me

Also, looking at stuff on Amazon, would this be a decent kit to get started with? I'm sure the paints are fiarly useless but I've heard good things about the HP-CS and the the extra stuff seem to be a decent deal Vs. buying it all seperately?

Amazon bundle

So, you could start with this (this is what I started with, and while it tends to clog, it does the job):https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520958546&sr=8-4&keywords=masters+airbrush

But if you want to dive in head first...I recommend the below:
https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1520958546&sr=8-12&keywords=masters+airbrush
& https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Eclipse-Hp-Cs-W-Airhose/dp/B00695CY54/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520958642&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+hpcs


As for accessories - get yourself some m3 masks, gloves, medea airbrush cleaner https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0S6/ref=pd_sim_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003TJA0S6&pd_rd_r=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51&pd_rd_w=sFOW8&pd_rd_wg=8bTp7&psc=1&refRID=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51, and one of these https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Cleaning-Needle-Nozzle-Holder/dp/B0154HN2NA/ref=pd_sim_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0154HN2NA&pd_rd_r=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51&pd_rd_w=sFOW8&pd_rd_wg=8bTp7&psc=1&refRID=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51

I actually just started getting into miniature painting a few weeks ago, and went the same route as you to start out with. I have very shaky hands, and I wasn't sure if I would even be able to do it so I went cheap at first. I picked up this brush set from Amazon. Then I bought some primer from Walmart, and bought the Army Painter Zombicide paint set since I have the game and figured even if I messed them up, I cold just slap some blood on those parts and they would looks ok (which was the case for a few).
I think the Wargame one would be a good starter set as well.
The primer I picked up is cheap and works great, but it takes a while to dry. Since I started, I picked up a couple of cans of Army Painter primer and that dries in a few minutes. If you don't mind waiting a day, then just use the cheap stuff. There may be other cheap ones that dry faster, but I can't speak to those.

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM/

Compressor reliability does seem to be a crapshoot. I have a paasche cheapie ~100 bucks i bought 4 years ago that is still alive and kicking with intermittent use.

My advice would be to try out a cheaper one first. The one I linked comes with an airtank too. I just don't think 2.6x the cost is justified for compressor internals.

Yeah, that's the right one. Sorry I said chrome earlier-- i had read either on RWI or RG where someone was trying this one..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7EFSVU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A79CLRHOQ3NF4

but metallic silver is the safe bet.

Pretty good. There are a few things for you to consider though.

The paint set is likely a bit overkill. I'd pick paints based on what faction you're most interested in from the set. For example, I'd grab a black and white for sure, then whatever color you'd like the armor to be and a few metallics. You can get a lot done with just those and then expand your paint library from there. If you order that set you will end up buying a lot of paint you will never use.

You likely don't need all those brushes. You'll be better off getting one or two high quality brushes and a bunch of mediocre ones. Most people swear by Winsor Newton series 7 brushes for mini painting. I'd also pick up a cheap brush for dry brushing, I suggest cheap here because drybrushing tends to destroy brushes fairly quickly and you don't need a great quality brush for the process.

I'm not sure what's in the tool kit set but make sure you get some plastic glue for more permanent and seamless melds.

Edit: I just realized I linked a size #0 brush. Get a size #1. #0 is just too damn small.

I just got this about a month ago. I'm in love so far. Good kit to get you everything you need to start.

http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-Airbrush-Compressor-Instructional-Quick-Connector/dp/B001BO4X8Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396252600&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+hp-cs

There is also something like this. The pointy tool can help you pull the gunk out after soaking the nozzle. If you're using acrylic paint just look for something called airbrush restorer to use to soak the nozzle.

https://smile.amazon.com/ABEST-Airbrush-Cleaning-Repair-Stainless/dp/B00UFBJGRM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=airbrush+nozzle+cleaner&qid=1556373913&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I just picked up a spray booth from Amazon surprisingly cheap and does a good job at not letting the strong smell permeate the space. this is the one I bought

You don't need anything heavy duty for airbrushing, but get one with a tank for sure.

I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM but it seems to no longer be available. It's quiet enough that I can close a door and barely hear it from the other room. Cost around $80, so target a price in that area.

From what I've read the expensive 'name brand' ones don't seem to be worth the extra price and you should just be prepared to replace the compressor every few years.

I used a wire wheel brush on my wired drill (a kit like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/wire-wheelcup-brush-set-6-pc-60475.html)

Then just wiped them down well before painting. For the paint: https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-ultra-cover-2x/matte

Then I used the Sharpie Oil Paint Pens for the lettering (http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Assorted-Metallics-1770458/dp/B003YDYO1Q). Depending on the size of the lettering, you might need different sizes.

I highly recommend oil based paint pens over permanent markers. Thy take a little longer to dry but look 100x better and won't fade (sharpie can fade over a long time). They are easy to find at local craft stores (I got mine at Michaels if you have that close). These are the ones I've used.

Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Markers, Medium Point, Assorted Colors, 5-Count

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YDYO1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EnWgzbCKPF1QG

Picture for reference. The bottom row of horror pops are all paint pen. Most of the others are Sharpie (before I knew about paint pens)

https://imgur.com/a/dglSz

I'll save you $10 immediately: A cork, and bluetac. Now you don't need to spend 9.45 on a painting handle. You also probably don't need to be starting with wet palette. A 8 colour ink set is also probably overkill, stick to black and brown and be done with it.

And I suggest swapping your brush set to this: https://www.amazon.com/MyArtscape-Detail-Paint-Brush-Set/dp/B010QLOJ3G

4 rounds, 4 liners, 2 flats.

Thanks! I've looked at a few spray booths, specifically this one. Any recommendations?

I got mine through Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E7EFSVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481870577&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=molotow+liquid+chrome&dpPl=1&dpID=414sZoEl3EL&ref=plSrch
If Amazon isn't an option for you, try going to Molotow.com to see if they can get you a link to a local supplier. I'm in Oregon and even ordering it through Amazon, it ended up coming from the U.K., so it took several weeks to get here.

Jeeze, It feels like i'm biting off more than i can chew with this lol.

Would this get me most of what I need?
http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449424905&sr=8-2&keywords=tcp+airbrush+compressor

and I think I'm going to go with this for the actual brush:
http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449370777&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+airbrush

I have fallen in love with this brush set, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3PSN8T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They even have air bubbles inside the handle so they float!

Like this? I guess I didn't even know that was an option. I can make my weights look 10x cooler now, thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Assorted-5-Count/dp/B003YDYO1Q/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1497493379&sr=1-4&keywords=paint+pens

Those are the same ones I use. Alot of the celebrities comment on his much nicer they look when they sign

I can only afford one right now, which size would you recommend?

https://www.amazon.ca/Molotow-ONE4ALL-Acrylic-Marker-703-101/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ES5LM22C2ZRE

They should! I've used that exact brand of white before.

You should also get a set of small tip paint brushes like these if you don't already have some.

This, and getting out of the hobby and won't need them, nor the cleaning kit and pot, the gloss top coat, or the air brush cleaner.

I can use it straight from the bottle when I am working in a room temperature environment that is fairly dry.

Thinning 1:1 is pretty extreme. If that's not your problem, you might have some buildup in your nozzle.

Here is a link to an airbrush nozzle cleaning tool. It ships from China so expect like a 2 month wait, but it's cheap. You can probably get one from a hobby or art supply shop for around $15 if you don't want to wait. https://www.amazon.com/ABEST-Airbrush-Cleaning-Repair-Stainless/dp/B00UFBJGRM/

Here is a video on how to use them:

https://youtu.be/3G8mTmU6M_8

I can't say the product is terribly durable but mine is still going two years later, crack a window and point the hose outside

Folds up nicely if you are in a small space, put a sheet of cardboard down under it overspray tends to sneak thru the seams where it folds sometimes

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Spray-Extractor-Crafts-Figurines/dp/B004ZH7RSM

like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Assorted-Metallic/dp/B003YDYO1Q/ref=ice_ac_b_dpb?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1526382073&sr=1-1&keywords=sharpie+paint+pen

I recommend this one because it's cheap and gets the job done.
PointZero Portable Airbrush Air Compressor Tankless Oil-less 1/5 HP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e6c3CbH2BCW5E

I bought this compressor along with a Iwata Neo airbrush and a 6' hose. Came out to around 150$ total.

That compressor's like a 3rd the cost of some other compressors with the same features. And while it's only been a month, I haven't had a single issue with it.

I've heard oil markers work really well

So I have decided on getting a spray booth.
Does this one look alright?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ZH7RSM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481355048&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=spray+booth&dpPl=1&dpID=51DA5SIaCrL&ref=plSrch

use these. you can re-apply after crashes to keep looking fresh

Interested in the lot, have airbrush and compressor, opened but never used.

Compressor

Airbrush

You'll need a compressor as well.

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Tankless/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_9

[has done me well so far] (https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-HP-Airbrush-Compressor-Portable/dp/B004KNDQCM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1OPK6CK3N0BZL&keywords=pointzero+airbrush&qid=1555382635&s=gateway&sprefix=pointzer&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1)

Cheap too!
Sharpie 37371PP Oil-Based Paint Markers, Fine Point, Assorted Colors, 1 Blister Pack with 5 Markers, Total of 5 Markers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOYAPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2LVrDb8KHKG84

Open a window, it should be fine. If you are really concerned you should get a spray booth. Example.

If you're in the states, get yourself a Molotow Liquid Chrome marker.


Molotow Amazon Link For Reference.

Amazon carries all three sizes:

https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Marker-1Mm/dp/B01E7EFSVU

Also, Blick has it for less:

https://www.dickblick.com/products/molotow-liquid-chrome-marker/

A really quiet airbrush-compressor. We ran one of those in a shop i worked in and we never had any problems. http://www.amazon.com/Quiet-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Regulator-FREE-HOSE/dp/B001BJFHAW

I used one of these. It took about 15 minutes per wheel to put on two coats. Because the tires were brand new, I did not have to clean them off or anything. I have already taken it through a car wash and the lettering stayed on fine.

To be honest good brushes are kinda expensive. This brand and range is referred to quite often by people who have been painting a while and as someone who owns one, you get what you pay for. While you can find cheaper brushes, they'll fall apart, lose their point, and by the time you've replaced them a couple of times you've actually spent more money.

It's the same thing as this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Training/dp/B001BJFHAW/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1543126347&sr=1-4&keywords=TC-20

You basically paid $100 more for a fancy sticker and purple handle.

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

Oil pens

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

they do make one:
http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Marker-White-SN35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

This one ?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026HC9F4/ref=asc_df_B0026HC9F45009361/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B0026HC9F4&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167130062341&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7910342813992266338&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004333&hvtargid=pla-312324517103

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Marker-Point-White/dp/B0026HC9F4

If I remember correctly, people were using a white sharpie. Use the search bar.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Marker-White-SN35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026HC9F4

sharpie makes oil based paint pens..

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-1770458-Oil-Based-Medium-Assorted/dp/B003YDYO1Q/

Keep up

Sharpie paint pen.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_3cR2Ab35KWJ6C do you think this compressor + the iwata neo cn will work?

Also Looking at this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A3KUYHN7HI5ZSF&psc=1

I got this.

Non-mobile: this is the one I bought

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

http://www.amazon.com/The-Army-Painter-Wargamer-Brush/dp/B009CBC0PQ

Jason Mark Essential kit: $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D12KGVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Brush Set- $5.89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4EG6D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Angelus Paint: $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQ53QA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Vallejo Basic USA Colors Paint Set, 17ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009162PWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xijazbFT3DJKK

Detail Paint Brush Set - 12 Miniature Brushes for Art Painting - Acrylic, Watercolor, Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010QLOJ3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3ijazbGNR3QB9

I'll post it here, so others can see.

Paint: Miniature Painting Kit with Bonus... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTXRUUT?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Brushes: MyArtscape Detail Paint Brush Set -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010QLOJ3G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Printer: Monoprice Mini Delta 3D Printer With... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJQ3D6L?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Molotow ONE4ALL Acrylic Paint Pump Marker, 1mm, Liquid Chrome, 1 Each (703.101) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GxA0AbTVJ739B

This is what I used! Applies a chrome looking effect to the plastic

Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker 1Mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mlgEtASVTj7qJ

Used a Molotow marker
https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Marker-1Mm/dp/B01E7EFSVU

Should of bought a Molotow pen.

Considering going into airbrushing but not sure if I should build a DIY booth or buy a portable one. I just wanted to hear some experiences with either and was wondering how often I would need to replace filters/how difficult is it to replace the filters on a portable booth (including finding new parts + installing said parts)

PS. I was interested in this booth
https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Spray-Booth-Paint-Extractory/dp/B004ZH7RSM

I haven't used one, but a No-Spill Paint Cup may help.

Spraying indoors is usually a bad plan. If you really want to, you can buy a spray booth or build one.

That's a full sized compressor, but same theory :-).

You need an airbrushing one. Have a look at these:

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-HP-Airbrush-Compressor-Portable/dp/B004KNDQCM/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1521943135&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=airbrush+compressor&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-TC910-Compressor/dp/B005UH7CVI/ref=sr_1_21?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1521943135&sr=1-21&keywords=airbrush+compressor

Not sure where you are located, but try art or model supply shops, search for "airbrush compressor". They should go for around $100-200. You only need 1/5 to 1/4 HP as you only need to reach up to 30 psi (most spraying would be 18-25 psi).

I have this one as a second compressor and have had no issues. I have a larger noisy one from Home Depot I use in the garage or outdoors but for indoor use the one I linked sits under my work table.

Has anyone tried this set? The price seems too low to be legit kolinsky sable brushes.

What works insanely well is an adjustable small air compressor. You should take it outside though because it blows dust EVERYWHERE. Also make sure you start off with a low PSI, because something higher could damage parts! This is mine, it's relatively quiet and a BEAST!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BJFHAW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB

Use this stuff after each color change and when finished for the day. http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0S6/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1453525091&sr=1-1&keywords=airbrush+cleaner
I dump the excess paint out then rinse with water quick before spraying some water through to get some more paint out. I dump the dirty water and spray some of this until no more color comes out. It works very well for me. 20-30 color changes so far with no problems at all. Good luck with your future painting!

I used a mix of Vallejo and P3 paints to paint each color on the figure -skin, clothes, weapons, venom sacs, etc. I then brushed on a dip, specifically Army Painter Strongtone to give them shading and a dirty dark tint.

All the materials might be pretty pricey if you were buying them just for painting up Myth, but it's all stuff I already had lying around from painting other minis games, so...