I have some recommendations and suggestions. I know there's a lot of info, but you should know this if you want to get more value for your money. I ran out of space before I could cover everything, so just ask me if you have questions.

Headphones

---

The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.

• Open-back: the earcups have perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through. The benefits to this is generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. This can also help if your ears tend to sweat.
  
  
• Closed-back: the earcups have solid shells that isolate sound from passing through to various extent.
  
   
  
  Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.
  
  
• Balanced/flat/neutral: doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble.
  
• Warm: emphasizes the bass.
  
• Dark: recesses the treble. A headphone can be warm and dark.
  
• Bright: emphasizes the treble.
  
• U-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble a little.
  
• V-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble more than U-shaped.
  
• Mid-forward: the mids are louder than the bass and treble. The mids may be emphasized or the bass and treble may be recessed.
  
  Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from.
  
  Mid-bass is where impact/slam comes from.
  
  Generally, for competitive shooters, as little bass as possible is favorable because bass overpowers or overshadows footsteps and other sound cues.
  
   
  
  Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.
  
  
• Soundstage: is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. It's the size of the sound field around you. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can't comprehend it without experiencing it.
  
  
• Imaging: is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.
  
  
• Separation: is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in competitive shooters.
  
   
  
  Personal headphone recommendations:
  
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X (open-back):
  
  has recessed sub-bass and emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little harsh treble. Has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.
  
  
• Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms) (open-back):
  
  has recessed sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass, and very emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little splashy or overly sparkly treble. Has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.
  
  
• Philips Fidelio X2 (open-back):
  
  has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. Has clean bass and smooth treble. The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but bass overpowers sound cues a lot.
  
  
• Sennheiser HD598 (open-back):
  
  is mid-forward and has recessed sub-bass. Has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.
  
  

  
  

  
  I also compare to AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven.
  
  My evaluations are based on games, not music. I test headphones mostly in BF:BC2, BF3, BF4 and R6S.
  
   
  
  Alternatives:
  
  Open-back
  
  

• AKG K612 Pro
  
• AKG K701
  
• AKG K702
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x
  
• Beyerdynamic DT880
  
• Sennheiser Game One (headset)
  
• Sennheiser HD558/HD579
  
• Sennheiser HD599
  
  Closed-back
  
  
• AKG K550
  
• Audio Technica ATH-MSR7
  
• Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus
  
• Beyerdynamic DT770
  
• Sennheiser Game Zero (headset)
  
• V-MODA Crossfade M-100
  
   
  
  

  Microphones
  

  
  ---
  
  

  
  

  
  Attachable to headphones
  
  

• Antlion ModMic
  
• Massdrop Minimic
  
• V-MODA BoomPro
  
  Alternatives
  
  
• Audio-Technica AT2020USB
  
• Blue Snowball
  
• Blue Yeti
  
• Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone
  
• Samson Go
  
• Sony ECMCS3
  
• Zalman ZM-Mic1
  
   
  
  

  Setup
  

  
  ---
  
  

  
  

  
  Antlion ModMic and Massdrop Minimic are compatible with all headphones.
  
  V-MODA BoomPro is compatible with Philips Fidelio X2 and V-MODA Crossfade M-100 of the aforementioned headphones.
  
   
  
  You can connect the headphone and mic to the PS4 by using an audio USB adapter. The one I linked has separate jacks for the headphone and mic, so in order to use it with V-MODA BoomPro, you need a Y-splitter, which is included with the mic. The other 3.5mm mics have an own cable, so there's no need for a Y-splitter.
  
  USB mics, like AT2020USB, Snowball and Yeti, connect directly to the PS4.
  
  If the cables aren't long enough, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.
  
   
  
  The PS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). A Sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so I'll only list DACs with optical. I'll only list USB sound cards that officially support PS4.
  
  Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.
  
  There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.
  
  If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.
  
  Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 are very loud for me out of the controller or by using an audio USB adapter. The 600-ohm version of Beyerdynamic DT990 is too quiet.
  
  

  
  

  
  Mics generally don't work with amps, so you'll have to connect it to an audio USB adapter, or to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter. You recognize them by the three black rings on their connector. You need to use the included Y-splitter with V-MODA BoomPro.
  
  With a sound card, you can use both the headphone and mic with it. You need a TRRS Y-splitter if the mic has a separate cable.
  
  To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound cards:
  
  

• Astro MixAmp Pro TR
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G1
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G5
  
• Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC
  
  

  
  

  
  Amps and DACs:
  
  

• Audioengine D1 (both)
  
• FiiO D3 (DAC)
  
• FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  
• Mayflower ARC (both)
  
• Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  
• Schiit Magni 3 (amp)
  
• Schiit Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  
• SMSL SD793-II (both)
  
• Topping A30 (amp)
  
• D30 (DAC)

I may be of some help. I was in the same position as you a couple months ago.

First you have to decide, wired or wireless.

Wireless: A lot people suggest the ps gold headset ($100). As a gaming headset, they're decent but from what I've read, the sound quality is not great. If all you do is plan to play games with it and you don't care all that much about sound quality then this may be your best wireless option. A better wireless option would be the Astro A50. Reviews seem to say that the sound quality on the A50 is pretty good but this comes at a much higher price ($300 new, $200 refurbished). SteelSeries also makes a good wireless option at the same price point of the Astro.

Wired: If you go on head-fi, everyone will say the best option would be to buy a decent dedicated full-size headphones(price here depends on budget), a separate mic, and something like this to connect to your controller. This is true but I didn't like this option. Having two cables going my controller to my head seemed like a bit of a hassle and I wanted as few wires as possible. I wanted a quality wireless setup, but I couldn't justify spending $300 for a setup I'd only use to game.

I did find the V-Moda boom pro which would replace the cord on their headphone's with an in-line boom mic thus eliminating one more wire. Paired it up with the V-Moda M80(You should be able to use it with anything form the vmoda line, but don't hold me to that, you should be able to find out yourself easily), which to my surprise got great reviews on head-fi. I bought them for around 80 on an amazon lightning deal. They're pretty good, especially considering the whole setup cost ~$100. Build quality is very high, sound quality is good, a little bass heavy IMO but that is perfect for gaming. I also wouldn't mind taking these out with me on the colder months as they're not too bulky. They also come with a pretty cool carrying case.

I'm very happy with this setup now and I think the next step up from here would be to get a wireless setup.

Hope this helps.

Source: I do have quite an extensive headphone collection so I do appreciate a good set of cans.

Everything's FINALLY arrived. Had my Wiitar for weeks now, but unfortunately I couldn't use it until the adapter arrived.

Ordering the adapter was a hassle and a half. Placing the order was super easy, but Amazon decided to cancel shipping after a few days and not inform me of it. I checked my Amazon account a couple of days before delivery was due and found that the package had been returned to sender without my authorisation.

For a domestic package I wouldn't have minded, as it would only add maybe one or two days to the whole process of getting a product from Amazon, but I'd been waiting over a week now for the adapter to come and I wasn't having it. I contacted Amazon customer support to find out what happened, but from their end, the package was still coming to me. I was escalated to another customer support rep, who told me that the only option was to refund the cost of the adapter and to buy a new one. Great. I asked them what had happened and she did some checking and then came back and told me that actually, I couldn't have a refund, and that I'd have to wait several more days to see if the package actually arrives. Fucking fantastic.

I pressed and managed to get the refund after talking to customer support for over an hour. I tried to get them to compensate me by upgrading the shipping for free (literally 3 quid) so I wouldn't have to wait over a week again as a result of Amazon's mistake. This was when the customer support rep started getting rude and cutting me off, and ultimately terminated the session. Never had that happen on UK Amazon... (And no, the original product never did arrive).

Anyway, I got my refund, and was very happy to find that the seller of the adapter on Amazon had discounted the product, so I ended up paying roughly the same price that I originally paid but with upgraded shipping this time. Still an utter waste of time and money, but hey, Amazon does that sometimes.

The adapter finally arrived today. Forgot to mention: also had to order a USB extension cable off their Amazon Basics line. Got the 3m one - seems decent enough quality.

Total cost?

• Got a REALLY solid deal on a new in-box Wii Les Paul on eBay - £0.99 plus an extortionate postage charge of £6.99, so £7.98 all in all for a pristine Wii guitar. Not bad at all (usually the new ones go for about £30 - not sure why no one bought this one, cos it's definitely not a fake).
  
• Bought this female to male USB 2.0 extension cable for £4.47. 3m, so it's long enough that you can plug it into your PC and move around with it or whatever. Can't complain about this at all. I have use for this anyway, as my current USB cables don't stretch far enough when I game with my PS4 controller just in general. Could've bought a longer USB cable, but I can kill two birds with one stone with this.
  
• The adapter... Amazon tells me that I spent a grand total of £24.01 on this. The controller is garbage and not worth using, but the cable works well. If you don't buy the upgraded shipping, you'll probably spend around £20 instead. I'm hoping that Amazon refunds me the import charges, as by UK law the product isn't eligible for any import charges due to the price.
  
  

  Total cost: £36.46.
  

  With Raphnet adapter, it would have cost (including imports etc): £48.10
  

  
  Lesson learned: just buy a fucking Raphnet adapter. I saved 12 quid lol. Admittedly, I overpaid for shipping, and I'll probably get import fees refunded, which would bring the cost down to about £29 if you were to do this. And you probably wouldn't have the same hassle that I had with the Amazon adapter. All in all, though, the adapter works, and I've got a sweet, sweet Wiitar to play, so I'm not really that disappointed (assuming the adapter doesn't crap out on me...)
  
  If you can afford to spend maybe an extra £20 for the Raphnet, just do it. It's really not worth the hassle trying to get a good deal. In the future, though, if I ever need a new guitar, I don't have to worry about buying another bloody adapter - I can just buy another Wiitar off eBay, and hopefully for cheap.
  
  £37 is also almost exactly how much I spent on my new in-box Xplorer, so make of that what you will. I'm not sure if Xplorers have gotten any more expensive since I bought mine. I can't really give any impressions on how the Wiitar compares to my Xplorer, either, as I've only set up the guitar and made sure everything works at the moment. I've not done any proper playing. I can tell you that the Xplorer was very awkward to play due to the shape of the body, so I had to do this weird leg cross over thing to get it to sit nicely on my legs when sitting in my chair. It seems like that's the main complaint people have with the Xplorer, and I've seen Randy do almost the exact same leg cross over thing to get his Xplorer to sit properly on his lap. Also, I ended up with a gen 1 Xplorer which apparently had crappy frets. Mine did, so I messed with the fret pad (the slit mod where you slit the sides of each fret) and got them playing excellently, but unfortunately I overcut and they only lasted a few months before blue and orange started occasionally sticking under the slits I cut - hence why I'm buying a new guitar.
  
  Oh, almost forgot: I haven't figured out how to get whammy to work yet, but this is also a problem with the Raphnet adapters. I probably just need a tutorial.

You have a ton of options at varying prices. I'll try and list out some of them.

RF - Nobody should use RF, unless you have no other options.

Composite - Purchase a toaster style NES, a clone system or mod your toploader. The PQ on an HDTV will not be great and the picture will need to be upscaled on your TV, which also introduces some lag. This option is much better than RF, but much worse than RGB/HDMI. This option will cost anywhere from $20 - $80.

RGB - You can purchase Tim Worthington's RGB board and install it (or pay to have it installed). You can have this installed with a multi-out port (like an SNES) and this can be used in a variety of ways. You can attach an s-video cable to it or buy one of HD Retrovisions SNES component cables. This will give you a much better picture on your HDTV, but depending on how the handles 240p, it may still have problems. Definitely an upgrade from composite. This will all run you around $200 +/-. You can also use this mod to run through a Framemeister which will give you a very nice HDMI picture, but the Framemeister is expensive. That will run $500 +/- for everything, but you will get an HD picture on original hardware (and the mod). A great option, but expenisve.

HDMI - There are a few devises that run using HDMI. The Retron 5 is a nice, cheap option with a lot of features, including save states. This runs around $150. It can run a variety of different system cartridges and is a good option if you feel you might not be playing long term. The downside is that the cartridge slots are tight and many systems have been known to have defects. It also will not run a lot of pirate, homebrew games. Also, it technically isn't running on true hardware.

There is also an HDMI mod through Game Tech. This is the same board they use in the sold out Analog NT. This mod does everything you want, but it is frequently sold out, and with installation will run you about $200 - $300. It's probably closest to what you want done. I can't think of many downsides, besides availability and price.

The AVS is a system that has been developed by RetroUSB. It is an HDMI NES that promises to do everything that the HDMI mod does and a little bit more. It will play Famicom games as well and will run $185. It's going to have a lot of built in features and will play all NES/Famicom cartridges. Supposedly they are on a boat from China to the US right now and should be available for sale in 4-8 weeks.

Like you stated, the NES mini is being released this fall by Nintendo. No one knows how good the emulation will be, but it's a good legal way to play 30 of the best NES games. Also, the Wii eShop has pretty good NES emulation as well and the games can be purchased cheap. Used Wii consoles are all over the place for ~$40.

Emulation - I won't get too deep into what emulation is all about since it can be illegal, but it might not be a bad option if you are looking for a cheap solution at a low price point.

I hope that helps. Everybody has a different preference in how they want to play. I also think that a PVM or CRT is a great option for NES gaming, especially because it allows for light gun play and it will have no lag. And besides that, people are basically giving away CRT TVs.

In my opinion, the best option is to buy a regular pair of great headphones, then buy a mic to go with them. No gaming headset will sound as good as a pair of headphones for the same price. Get a pair of headphones in your price range, then a mic and the audio splitter will be an extra $18.
I currently use a pair of Audio Technica M50x's, which I bought to listen to music with and wound up using them for gaming. They are very comfortable and sound fantastic, although I personally wish they had a bit more bass, for gaming. For a microphone, I prefer the Pyle-Pro PMEM1 Headworn Mic, because it sounds far better than any other microphone I’ve used. Some people like the Zalman Clip mic, but in my experience it didn’t capture my voice clearly and picked up a ton of ambient noise. I just wear the mic underneath the headphones, which is perfectly comfortable. MAKE SURE YOU BUY A SPLITTER! The mic won’t work on the PS4 without one. I use this one. Overall, it’s ~$180 for a great gaming setup, and you get an amazing pair of headphones that you can listen to music with and wear out of the house.
If you want to look into a different pair of headphones, The Wirecutter has some phenomenal advice on headphones. They also have a list for gaming headsets, and I would take their advice on those if you have your heart set on a headset.

Consider getting a cheaper pair of headphones The Wirecutter recommends if you won’t use the M50x’s for anything else other than gaming, but they are among the best headphones for listening to music, and work great for gaming.

Headphones:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PMEM1-Headworn-Omni-Directional-Microphone/dp/B003D2S7HA/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8HYQKPP2BHCSX3M8WW8N

Mic:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PMEM1-Headworn-Omni-Directional-Microphone/dp/B003D2S7HA/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8HYQKPP2BHCSX3M8WW8N

Splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=05264WVDYHC2FG0SSX1W

Other Headphones:
http://thewirecutter.com/leaderboard/headphones/

There are a few things you can do. Firstly, finding an S-video cable will provide you with the cheapest and easiest visual upgrade. The linked version is the most common, but there are better versions available. It's said that a cable with just S-video and no yellow composite output will provide a better picture than a combo cable, but in my opinion, the step up from composite to S-video is far more noticeable than the solo S-video upgrade. Should you want one though, the best one on the market seems to be the one Monster released. The downside here is that S-video is becoming increasingly dated, and many new HDTVs don't have them. Make sure to check and see if yours has an S-video input first!

If you want to go even deeper down this rabbit hole, there is a community dedicated to getting the best visuals out of retro devices, notably the wonderful people at www.retrorgb.com. You'll find a lot of great info there, and in regards to the n64, it sounds like certain colored models were more apt for enhanced modding than the original charcoal version. Most of their recommendations center around displaying on old CRTs though, so if you really want to display on an HDTV, you'll need to really drop some cash.

Specifically, you'd need this beast of an upscaler. you'll see info about this thing on the RetroRGB site, but basically what it does is works solely to convert and upscale the SD output of the older consoles into pixel perfect HD images, with as little input lag as possible. It's not cheap, but many people swear by this device.

Last but not least, you could simply play the waiting game. There will inevitably be a successor to the Retron 5 that plays n64 games in upscaled HD the way the current iteration does. And while you wait, the GameCube, virtual console, and especially the 3ds version of OOT all have improved stability and performance overall.

Hope this is helpful!

Here are your options:

• Real hardware and an upscaler like the xrgb mini: Expensive, but does a much better job of upscaling than your TV will do. Basically, this means that games with tight timing will be more playable with the xrgb mini than with just a TV. For games like mega man and super ghouls 'n ghosts, I found the lag on my TV's upscaler made the games even harder than they already are.
  
• Use a clone system: The retron is probably the best in this area but I have 0 experience. The retron 5 is the latest. Make sure to check the reviews. There is also a portable super nintendo clone that can plug into a TV.
  
• Real hardware but modded with HDMI support: Also expensive and I don't think anyone has done this for the SNES yet.
  
• VirtualConsole on the Wii or Wii U: If you want to be legit you can buy some games from the eShop for about $4-10 depending on sales and title. You could also do a software mod to the Wii (or Wii portion of Wii U) and install emulators using the homebrew channel.
  
• Use emulators on a computer: Some people build a dedicated emulator machine using a raspberry pi but you could also just install an emulator on whatever computer you have. Higan is a very nice emulator if you go this route. I like the 8bitdo controllers. The USB only version is like 1/3 the price of the bluetooth version, but both versions can do USB. They are well made. I have the bluetooth version and I like it (and I'm very picky about emulation, controllers, etc. as I grew up with the original systems).
  
  I used emulators like higan until getting a CRT and rebuying real hardware (I wish I had my systems from growing up but they are lost to the ages). Now that setup is my preferred way.
  
  I hope that helps.

To answer your question @Helixcod:
Yes and no, you can play it anywhere you have an internet connection, but you will have to VPN (on a network outside of the one your PC resides on). They will be adding the feature to play it elsewhere soon though. You will also need a program like Pinnacle to play on the built-in controller, as well as a controller hooked up to your PC. The Pinnacle profile/addon can be found here This is actually something I made and it is still in testing, but I seemed to like the way it worked.

I have the Nvidia Shield and when I tested ESO on it, it ran pretty well. I have quite a few adapters/cables to allow me to not only play on the HDTV, but also wired internet. The Shield takes a mini HDMI to HDMI cable and to play with wired internet, you need an OTG (On the Go) adapter and a specific network adapter. I say specific because not all will work. The OTG adapter allows you to plug in USB cables into the Shield through the charging port (same port as most android phones). The network adapter allows you to plug an ethernet cable into the Shield for better connectivity. I also bought a hub so I could use all of these as well as an Xbox 360 controller.

The OTG adapter can be found here. The ethernet adapter can be found here.

Had a lot of fun with my Shield, but I bought a gaming laptop, so I won't be playing it too much anymore. Cool to have though. They will be adding remote gaming soon, so you can connect to your PC and game on an outside network.

I would say overall, it is very much worth this price. It's a cool device to play with and if you want a bit of freedom (but don't have a gaming laptop) go for it. It is considered an Android Tablet, so all of the Google Play store apps will work with it. If you have any more questions, let me know.

PS: No I'm not an Nvidia sales rep :P

hey friend, i recently wrote a "how to" setup APRS with a HT, Direwolf, and YAAC on linux. copy paste is below ...

edit:

If audio is getting from the radio to direwolf, check the volume levels on the radio output, and check the mic gain on your computer. These are really the only two settings that will affect how direwolf can rx and decode. Direwolf logs out when it receives something, and it tells you on a scale of 0-100 the volume level. I try to shoot for 50-60 and I get very consistent decode.


Tutorial: APRS software user interface, with software based audio TNC, and RF gateway

Overview:

APRS is a tool that was designed to convey information about objects, telemetry, and reporting, as well as communicate between individuals and groups with direct, and group messaging. Many people have the experience, or mindset, that APRS is used primarily for location tracking. This is partially due to the limitations on many hardware implementations of APRS that vendors have provided. One way to learn more about APRS as a broader, and more powerful system is to utilize software to visualize, and interact with other stations, and objects. This short tutorial will discuss how to setup a software based user interface (UI) for APRS that will provide you with mapping, messaging, and object manipulation abilities, as well as how to connect that UI through a software based audio modem, or TNC, directly to a radio, so that other users within your immediate range, as well as the range of any digipeaters will be able to interact with the same local APRS data without any reliance on the internet, or internet gateways.

User interface:

There are several different user interfaces available that have been designed for APRS.

UI-View is a popular piece of software which is no longer being maintained as the original author has passed away.

YAAC is a successor/replacement to UI-View which is cross platform (Java) with a intuitive interface, and many capabilites. We will be using YAAC for this tutorial.

Xastir is primarily a Linux application built on the X windows library system. It is quite functional, but is less intuitive and is currently less activly developed than YAAC.


Audio Modem (TNC):

TNC's originally were AX.25 packet assembler/dissasemblers with the addition of a modem to convert baseband digital signals into audio tones. In the case of a software TNC, it has the same capabilites, encoding and decoding both the AX.25 layer, and data layer to and from audio so it can be transmitted or received from a radio.

Direwolf is the premier audio tnc, which is documented to run on Windows, OSX, Linux, and single board computer Linux environments such as Raspberry Pi BeagleBone Black etc.

RF Gateway:

The RF gateway is probably the simplest piece in the equation. You need only a radio that supports audio in, audio out, and VOX. There may be some complexity if you choose to make your own cables, however there are ready made cables for popular and inexpensive radios (Baofeng) which are available for under $20 from amazon, which feature isolation to protect both your computer, and your radio.

Here is a link to a high quality cable available on Amazon, which works for Boafeng radios: https://www.amazon.com/APRS-K2-Connector-BaoFeng-APRSDroid-Compatible/dp/B01LMIBAZW


Supplementary:

It can be very helpful to have a radio that is capable of broadcasting an APRS beacon to test your setup as you go.

Your laptop may have a single plug for both headphone and microphone (TRRS) or it may have two seperate plugs. If you have two seperate plugs, you will need a splitter to seperate the microphone, and headphone connections from the cable linked to in the above RF gateway section. The cable linked below will split the two should you need it.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/


System setup:

We are going to build the APRS system from the ground up, starting with Direwolf, the audio modem/tnc and the RF gateway. If you are a Linux user, there are packages for direwolf in ubuntu/debian as well as yum based systems:

sudo apt-get install direwolf or sudo yum install direwolf

For Windows and OSX go to https://github.com/wb2osz/direwolf and follow the instructions to download the latest release and run direwolf from a command window.

direwolf does not need any configuration for our initial setup, simply run direwolf, connect the audio and microphone jacks between the computer and your radio, and tune your radio to 144.390.

Be certain that you do not have any rx-CTCSS or DCS tones setup. Set your squelch as low as it will go, and enable vox with the lowest setting possible on your radio. Now is the time when it is handy to have a HT that is capable of beaconing APRS data. If you have one, set it to beacon and you should start see data coming in on the terminal where direwolf is running. You may need to adjust the volume on the output of your radio, the output of your computer, as well as the microphone gain on your computer to get everything decoding properly.

Once you can reliably decode becons from a local HT, or from a digipeater within range, you can move on to setting up the YAAC user interface, and connecting it to direwolf.


YAAC, the APRS user interface software we are using, is a Java program and requires that your system has the Java runtime environment installed. For Linux users, be certain that you install the full JRE, and not a "headless" JRE, as the headless versions do not come with the graphical libraries that YAAC requires to run. Also as of this writing YAAC did not work with Java 9, however I experienced no problems using the OpenJDK Java 8 JRE so be sure to check the version you are installing.

After you have the Java Runtime Environment installed, download the self upacking binary for your operating system from the YAAC website at http://www.ka2ddo.org/ka2ddo/YAAC.html#install

For linux users, the file was not set as an executable, so I had to chmod +x YAAC_linux_x86.bin before running ./YAAC_linux_x86.bin

NOTE: YAAC does not extract itself into a directory - so you likely want to create a directory first, then move the self extracting file into that directory so that you dont end up with a bunch of files all over.

After the package has extracted, simply run the YACC.jar program. You can do this from the command line with: java -jar YACC.jar

YACC will ask you if you want help configuring it, select yes and walk through the steps configuring your call sign, latitude/longitude etc. When you get to the part about adding and configuring interfaces, select the option to "Add AGWPE Port". YACC will create a new window with default information populated - you MUST add your callsign, and change the transmit dropdown from "disabled" to "enabled". Click finish, and on the next screen you can decide whether you want to beacon or not (I chose yes) along with any free form comment you want, then click finish.

That is it - you have a basic APRS software station set up that can transmit, and recieve via RF link. You should see objects start to appear on the YAAC map view, and the direwolf command line output should match up with data YAAC is displaying.

Homework:

From here you can learn how to create message groups, chat directly with stations, place objects on the map so that they are only visible to other local RF stations, or so that they propegate out through the internet via a digipeater I-Gate (if one is in range) so that they show up on the APRS-IS backbone (e.g. aprs.fi).

I suggest poking around on an emulator first to get a feel for things. If you're determined to go with the real thing, though, you would need a disk drive, and that could add double to what you're paying for the machine. Many tape games can be cheaply bought on eBay, so if you wanted those you could get a 1531 Datasette, which should be very cheap. Many UK games (where some of the best games came from) came on tape, but the majority had disk releases as well.

Look out for boxed games, but they're getting expensive nowadays and even the hardware itself has been steadily going up in price for years. Boxed disk and cartridge games are fetching higher prices now than ever before. The most common cartridge would be the one that came packed with the failed C64GS system, and later with C64C's. It has four relatively good games on there - Fiendish Freddy's Big Top 'o Fun, Flimbo's Quest, Klax and International Soccer (the last being a very old and slow game but still fun). Flimbo's is definitely the pick of the bunch.

I would suggest instead of going with the tapes, disks and cartridges route you instead just get a C64 and a SD2IEC, which you can plug into your machine with as much software as your sd card can hold. If you want a little more capability you can get the 1541 Ultimate II, which is a much more fully featured device, but obviously costs a lot more.

C64's do not give out a good picture on modern displays because, like all machines of the time, it was designed to run on good old radiation inducing CRT's. You can get LumaFix 64 (if you get a C64/G and not a C64C, as it forces the VIC-II video chip to sit too high on the board, interfering with where the keyboard sits). Or if you're determined to get the best possible picture, you can splurge on an XRGB Mini Framemeister, which is supposedly the best option.

Good luck with your C64 and if you have any problems, ask here or /r/C64 or even message me directly :)

I have a triple monitor set up as cheaply as it can be done.
For the graphics card it must have eyefinity (im 90% about this, there may be exceptions but I don't know them). I don't think it works with nvidia quite yet so go ati.
I have a xfx 5830 that you can get for $130. My monitors out are an hdmi to one monitor, dvi to the second monitor, and to the oldest monitor I have an active display port to vga.

This last step is important and I will explain why it has to be active and to vga to stay cheap;

The reason it has to be active is because you already have 2 digital signals in the form of HDMI and DVI, so it has to convert it.

The reason it has to be VGA is because it uses less power and is easier to do so it doesn't need to be powered and MOST importantly, this adapter costs $25 for active displayport->vga compared to ~$100 for active to DVI.

My monitors are not all at the same resolution so I can't do the thing where it recognizes it as 1 huge screen. It is 3 seperate screens that I can control the positions of in ATI catalyst control center (the software side of the drivers... or something that comes with the GPU).

I am not sure about using both the DVI's and then the adapter that I link/ed but I don't see why not as the GPU sees the 3 ports as pick any two. Doesn't really matter as im sure at least 1 of the 1080 monitors has an hdmi cord.


Any other questions feel free to ask, and here is the link to the adapter that you need its not porn its just the link with a false name

side note; since doing my last batch of research, it seems there may be a chance of an active displayport to dvi... due to this product. May be irrelevant as i assume that the old monitor doesn't have dvi, but for anybody else.

it says "Connect a Single-Mode DisplayPort Enabled Computer to a DVI-D Monitor, TV or Projector" so it kinda sounds like it won't work with multiple monitors by the single mode statement... but not sure

Hey, I'm a long-time PC and console player, I might be able to answer some questions. It sounds like a lot of the other commenters are on the right track, too.

1 - Do you have a HDMI 2 or 2.2 port? Then yes. If you only have HDMI 1.4, probably not. My Dell 4K monitor only has HDMI 1.4 (I use DP for 4K), so it can only support 30hz at 4K resolutions. You want 60hz support. My monitor supports 1080p and 1440p at 60hz, it's just a bandwidth limitation of the older HDMI port.

2 - The other comments are spot on. Uncharted and The Last of Us are great choices. Keep in mind that not all games have official PS4 Pro patches, so it'll be just like playing them on a normal PS4. However, for games that do have a patch already (like Uncharted 4 and The Last Of Us, and a lot of the other games people have listed) you'll generally have a better looking/running experience. Uncharted 4 is gorgeous on the PS4 Pro!

3 - Yes and no. Do you want to connect to the console itself, or the controller? The controller has a 4-pole 3.5mm jack, so you can use headphones and mics with it. However, the controller can't drive high-impedance headphones that well (it's designed for earbuds). I initially used Beyerdynamic DT770 80ohms with it, but I had to max the volume out and it still wasn't very loud. Now, I use a Corsair gaming headset. If you get something like this, it has the 4-pole connector (audio and mic on one plug) so it should plug right in and work great. If you want to use another mic and your existing headphones, you can get an adapter like this that takes a 3.5mm headphone jack and mic jack, and joins them into the PS4 jack. Also, if you have any earbuds with a built-in mic, like ones that come with an iPhone, those should work too.

I don't believe the Blue Snowball has a 3.5mm out, but if you want to use your headphones, a cheap clip-on lapel mic should work, or use the clip-on earbud that comes with the Pro and just ignore the headphone portion. That and the joining adapter would work. The Snowball will likely also work if you plug it in to the USB port on the front or back, it's at least worth a shot. There are a dozen different ways to use your current stuff, you just have to decide how much you want to spend or how much hassle you want to go through.

4 - No, just to play online and access PS+ games.

5 - There may be promotions from various retailers that will give you a game, but by default I don't believe it does. Mine didn't.

6 - I normally get about 10-12 hours of life out of mine. I charge through the system, so I can't answer your other questions, but I assume it does. You can leave your console in rest mode (where it can download patches automatically if you have PS+) and that's a good way to charge the controller. I leave mine plugged in during rest mode, and just unplug it when I want to play. It stops charging automatically.

If you have any other questions, I'll do what I can to help!

You should be able schedule the initial interview as soon as 12-24 hours after signing up. I think from my sign up date to hire date I completed the entire process in 4-5 days! Which was awesome because I desperately needed work at the time! You choose when to do the interview based on the available time slots. However, there are trying something new where you can do a completely self-recorded initial interview, which has some advantages I'm sure. You will have more control over exactly what you are sending them and hopefully show something professional enough to get above $18/hour and closer to $20 or $22!

I would not invest a lot into props unless you are hired by VIPKID. In every stage of this hiring process, you will have access to the power point of what class you will be pretending to teach, so you can find those props ahead of time around your house, or make a few simple drawings. So while in practice you will need a variety of versatile props, the interview is all about getting a very specific case correct. All I purchased was a large white poster board to hang behind me, some post-it note letters to create an alphabet on the sheet, and use markers to draw some colorful shapes/animals/people/etc. on it as well. I would recommend, however, buying a small handheld dry erase board! They are so versatile and it is a small investment cost to apply for this job and look way more professional. I also purchased a nice attachable microphone which I will link below. Don't get too obsessed with finding tons of awesome props, though. Many applicants often focus too much on props and not enough on their communication skills!

If you are hired, I also have a whole list of what props and setups to get then. I'm all about keeping it simple and not having my supplies take up a whole room in my house! :D

This microphone is awesome if you want to turn your good headphones into an amazing headSET!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R98JVVU?ref=emc_b_5_t

Just get an attachment like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&pd_rd_r=DEJHY7WRFT67AY404A9J&pd_rd_w=5fpY3&pd_rd_wg=jPQH8&psc=1&refRID=DEJHY7WRFT67AY404A9J

or

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004SP0WAQ&pd_rd_r=FBN4YFJYQDXP8FHBXX06&pd_rd_w=VZKVa&pd_rd_wg=y9wMc&psc=1&refRID=FBN4YFJYQDXP8FHBXX06

I bought everything in B&H so that I didn't even have to wait for shipping!

Hello guys, First of all, idk if this is the right place to post this but i am going to try and hope you guys can help me becuase the guys at r/buildapc couldn't help. Here is my original post at r/buildapc https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/4b8mgm/recording_audio_not_working/ . This post has my pc build and the statement of my problem.
Restatement of the problem from my other post: I built my pc last summer so it has probably been a good 10 months since i had it. After a few months of gaming, i finally play a game with my friend and then just noticed that the recording audio doesn't work. Not on skype or any other platform. I tried a whole bunch of stuff to try to fix it like going through the audio settings in windows 10 and reinstalling the realtek drivers. I even bought a headset splitter to see if that was the problem. This is the headset splitter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DOWH6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00 . All the wiring in my motherboard seem right so idk what could be the problem. Any ideas guys?
If you guys can help that will be great. If not can you guys recommend me a cheap DAC or soundcard to buy becuase i got pretty cheap headphones so i dont need anything significant. Headphones: meelectronics air-fi af32. I would rather get an internal soundcard so i can just leave it in the case and not worry about it but i would still like to use the front speaker jack on my case, would the soundcard let me do that or would i have to use the speaker jack on the card. Any info would help. Thank you so much.

The case is awesome! The SSD's and HDD's hide in the back. The case has a quality feel to it. The buttons on front? I don't really pay much attention to. The power button lights up, and the front panel has built in LEDs that light up too and you can select the color from like 12 colors. It includes an LED strip and that plugs into that front panel switch so your case will match. Personally, I'd get the adapter and plug it into your mobo's RGB Header. That way you'll have full 14 million color control instead of just 12 colors. Asus Aura runs RGB beautifully!

Find the adapter here

Or spend 10 more bucks and get the adapter plus 2 more LED strips here

The fan control switch is weird. There is no indicator as to the speed, so you just have to feel it out. Since I put in the Z370-E Mobo, I've been meaning to actually hook my 3 Corsair exhaust fans up to the Mobo, just haven't gotten around to it yet. I might actually connect them to CAM, but first I have to see if that is even possible.

Honestly, if you've got a color scheme in mind, go for the RGB Ram. I didn't even want to do RGB with mine, I just liked the case. I thought I'd do a simple purple. I liked where it was headed, so I bought the LED exhaust fans, and halo'd the Kraken Rad fans.

With Asus Aura, each RAM stick actually has 5 color zones you can modify independently.

Plus it comes with a really sweet door hanger to let mom know when you're gaming or not! Christ, it would be nice to spend three grand on a pc and not be treated like a 14 year old lol.

Ask away man! I enjoy talking about this stuff.

My current setup is A50s and a Modmic plugged into a Y-adapter that plugs into the adapter and so far it works amazing. Let me try to get you links:

-Modmic (incredible quality; built to last and made by a guy who's just starting up):
http://www.modmic.com/

-Y-Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394242076&sr=8-1

-Sennheiser (better for gaming, however the sound leaks so others can hear your music at a low volume (cant be used in public places)) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FEEY9A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394242127&sr=8-1

-A50s (what I have; perfect for music and great for gaming; very private and doesnt leak sound very much):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ULAP4U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1394242250&sr=8-2

The modmic is magnetic and will stick
To your headset while having the ability to be taken off with ease to leave the headphones bare. The a50s are awesome for music and pretty good for gaming, but if you do gaming at about a 80-20 ratio to music listening than I would go with Sennheiser 558s or 598s. The y-adapter just allows you to combine both the headphones and the mic into one 3.5 mm AUX jack.

Total cost was about $165 (not including xbone adapter). Fairly good price for better headphones (structurally and sound-quality), ability to use everywhere and not look dumb with an attached mic, listen to music that sounds phenomenal, and speak in crystal clear quality to my buddies (who have already noticed how well it sounded in comparison to the xbone chat headsets).

TLDR: Get audiophile headphones, a modmic, and y adapter for a better and cheaper headset that can be used as normal headphones and as a headset (removable mic).

I actually just got the modmic 5 yesterday so I'm buying the y splitter today when stores open, I've been using the headphones on their own and then using the Xbox app on my phone on an alt account to talk to my friends if I want to hear in-game audio. All you need is a male to 2 female y splitter and you're good to go, the Antlion console adapter works as well but it's like $20 compared to $5 for a cable so it's up to you whether you want to spend more money on the convenience of an adapter over a small cable.

I don't have Dolby Atmos, never got a code for it unfortunately but with Window Sonic vs Stereo, I use Stereo after testing it out a bunch, at least for competitive games. Less distracting game noises on stereo for games like Siege and I'm able to pinpoint their footsteps a lot easier, but I'll end up trying Sonic again eventually just to see if I made the right decision. Most people use Stereo especially for competitive games. I've used Sonic for some single player games and enjoyed it, just all about testing to see what you prefer but to me Stereo is better for tracking footsteps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ebrtDbBH7CM2M

This is the cable I'm getting first thing in the morning, I can list other options too if you'd like. There's a Sennheiser cable for a few more dollars that people enjoy as well if that interests you.

Hold on a sec, I don't think that's necessarily the right answer... You definitely won't just be able to plug a microphone into the headset jack (which I think is what McQueenMK did), but the M8 (like most smartphones) use a TRRS jack to connect a headset with a microphone in one jack. By itself that won't help you with using an external mic, but with an adaptor like this one, you get separate headphone and microphone jacks which would let you connect an external mic as long as it has a 3.5mm connector. Please note that this won't necessarily work for all microphones, depending on factors like output level and impedance. Adapters like this are also available, which have the conversion to XLR built-in as well as additional components to help with impedance matching, but I can't vouch for that as I've never tried it myself.

Edit: To answer your original question a bit better, I haven't tried recording video using the external mic, but I can't see why it wouldn't work (but I can test tomorrow). If it doesn't work with the stock camera app, I know there are 3rd party camera apps that claim to be able to do it.

Those are all gaming headsets which are rarely ever worth the price, especially from those brands.

You'll get far superior audio quality (especially at high volume), comfort and value out of a decent normal pair of headphones + clip-on mic.

For headphones, check the Head-Fi list of recommended cans by price range over here, pick the best you can afford or just ask over at /r/headphones.

As a cheap and pretty good clip-on mic, pretty much everyone recommends this one.

If you want to use it on a PS4, which has - I think - only the 4 pole mic+audio combined port, just use something like this.

Also, take care that your audio output has enough power. I think the Dualshock 4 can drive headphones up to 32Ω? You might to read up on that.

---

This doesn't only apply to gaming and consoles, ofc. Never buy gaming headsets or soundbars or prebuilt PCs etc. There's always a better DIY solution unless you're really lazy.

Another person asked a similar question a couple weeks ago. Here's the response I have him, which will likely help you:

Yes, you can use a computer monitor as a display for your PS3 (or nearly any video game console for that matter). There are multiple ways to set this up; I'm going to provide you with what I think is the easiest and what will give you the highest quality based on your setup. Note that there are other ways to do this, but I guarantee these instructions are what you are looking for.

-----

What you need you need to have:

• A computer monitor that supports DVI. Check to ensure your monitor has this port.
  
• An HDMI to DVI cable -OR- an HDMI cable + an HDMI to DVI adapter.
  
• A stereo audio (RGB) female to 3.5mm (headphone style) female adapter.
  
• A standard issue PS3 composite audio/video cable.
  
  If you don't have these cables, you can order them online or get them from Best Buy or Radio Shack (but they will be much cheaper online).
  
  Note: the audio adapter I mentioned above only supports traditional, analog speakers. In other words, make sure your speakers plug in using this type of connector.
  
  The HDMI to DVI goes from the PS3 into your monitor. The PS3 composite cables also get plugged into your PS3, and attach the audio adapter onto the red and white plugs on the PS3 composite cable (the yellow plug will just hang loose). Now, plug the headphone-style adapter into your speakers.
  
  On the PS3, just ensure that under Audio Settings, that "Multi Channel Output" is turned on.
  
  And that should do it. Hope this helps!
  

DVI and HDMI-video are pin-for-pin identical. DVI won't carry audio, but hopefully your monitor didn't come with speakers.

For standard stuff within the DVI DL spec (eg. 1600p 60Hz etc.) you can get a cheap passive adapter, if you don't already have one in your bin of spare parts.

HDMI supports fancier things now, I don't know the exact limitations of DVI offhand, but a $3 converter will work for your purposes if you already have an HDMI cable (as a DVI cable will cost you more than the converter.)

edit:

• $3.20 FS on amazon for the HDMI->DVI converter
  
  
• $2.30 at monoprice but you have to pay shipping/wait for a free shipping deal
  
  
• $6 for a 6ft DVI cable
  
  Note that you do want DVI-D or DVI-I. -A is analog and thats not what you want.
  
  edit2: Apparently audio is transferred over DVI too in some cases. Interesting.
  
  edit3: completely off topic, if you do order from monoprice and need good microUSB cables, the monoprice "premium" cables are awesome. I've replaced all the crap cables that come with devices as most only transfer 500mA. They'll push full-spec 1000mA+, have the stress relief thingies, are not at all stiff, plug in snug, etc. Highly recommended.

Hmm. I may have tried something similar last week actually. (Without success. My goal was to actually attempt to use my MacBook Pro and DAC to patch in copyright free music and my mic into a ps4 twitch stream).
Can you outline what you're thinking so I can get a better picture? Is your DAC also a headphone amp/have a headphone out?

Is it: PS4 optical out->Computer (optical)->USB DAC out -> headphones?

One idea that comes to mind is to take a regular 3.5 patch cord and use the ps4 controller headphone jack as a line out to your computer, if the optical idea doesn't work. (Though at this point I have to wonder whether using the Bluetooth audio and whatever quality compromises result may or may not negate the purpose of the DAC :). )

I actually found the output from the controller to be pretty darn good considering.

Or you could try using something like this to connect both your headphones and mic to the DS4 controller (your mileage may vary)

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ


Personally I think it's worth it to look out for a good used home theater receiver as the good ones can take a surround sound signal and output it through the headphone jack in a very nice 5.1 simulated way. I found a NAD home theater receiver on craigslist for $50 a while ago.

Here's what I would change:

• Buy this ssd and save some money. I really doubt you will need 256gb for gaming.
  
  
• Since you will be doing "heavy gaming" I assume you will also need more storage, so I would recommend getting this 1tb hard drive
  
  
• Again, since you will be doing a lot of gaming, I would definitely recommend getting a better monitor for it. I own this monitor and the 144hz is great for gaming at this price if you are willing to settle for 1080p. If you really want 1440p, I would definitely get a monitor that is better for gaming, like an ultrawide or one with 144hz and/or g-sync, as this will make gaming much more enjoyable (especially the 144hz).
  
  
• In terms of the color scheme, it looks solid, I also have a black/white setup. One thing I would change though is the case, I would recommend the NZXT s340 white case. Also to help out your look I would get white Silverstone cable extensions, and case led's.
  

Well, it depends on what you're playing from. I have the HD650 which is (imho) even better, but also more demanding. Does it sound it's best when driven from a decent amp? Hell yes. Does it still sound good when driven straight from my Macbook Pro, iPod Touch or Android phone? Sure! Not as well as being well driven by an amp, but more than good enough for me to enjoy.

The HD598 is easier to drive than the HD650. You should be fine in the initial going without an amp or dac unless your source is total crap. One thing is that the cable on the HD598 will have a 1/4" plug at the end and probably some 1/4" to 1/8" step down adapter. Quite possibly, it'll be one of those that'll put torque on the jack which I'm not too fond of, so plan to spend an extra $15 or so on a better one like this one from Grado

Well the headset adapter is required for my setup but I highly recommend it for many reasons. It will be a bit above your price range though.

Headphones: http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Headphones-Burl-Wood-Accents/dp/B0042A8CW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407304998&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+hd+598

Easily the most comfortable pair I have ever used, can game for hours without even knowing they are there.

Mic: www.modmic.com

Great quality microphone, and super versatile.

Splitter to connect it to the headset adapter: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407305184&sr=1-1&keywords=mic+and+headphone+splitter

Okay so lemme try to explain again. The aluminium fan frame has three connectors:

• One is RGB female connector,
  
  
• one is daisy chain male connector,
  
  
• one is daisy chain female connector
  
  Here's a picture of all three.
  
  The plastic fan frames have only two connectors:
  
  
• the daisy chain male connector,
  
  
• and the daisy chain female connector.
  
  Here's a picture of that.
  
  So basically the plastic fan frames cannot be directly connected to the motherboard RGB male connector. You'll need a separate adapter to connect them to the motherboard. Here's a link to the adapter. When I bought these fan frames, the cost of that adapter+plastic frame was more than the aluminium frame, so I just got one aluminium and 6 plastic. Hope that clears it up. :)
  
  >Edit: went and checked their price now, 1440/- for Aluminium ones and 740 for plastic 😐 Could you share some photos of the insides of your pc in your free time?
  
  So its definitely increased then. Sure, let me know which pictures you need exactly.

Warning: incoming wall of text. I can't comment on what twinzlol says but if you can indeed stream your xbox one to Windows 10, then that would probably be the most cost effective way of doing it.

I used to stream from Xbox One through an Elgato USB capture card and it wasn't ideal but got the job done. Biggest downfall was that due to USB speeds, there was a time delay of a couple seconds that made syncing the game and my webcam video / commentary audio a nightmare but after tweaking it a bit, it works well enough. Even after upgrading to a PCI-E capture card, the couple ms of delay may be enough to cause disadvantage when playing a super fast paced FPS like CoD. Because of this, you can never really depend on using the OBS preview to actually play a game and will almost definitely require two screens. One to actually play the game on and the other to manage your computer / OBS.

As far as a headset for audio goes. Would she need the headset to act strictly as headphones for the Xbox One and a microphone for OBS or does she need the microphone to chat to friends in an Xbox Live Party as well? Both can be achieved (it's how I used to stream) but the latter is a little more complicated to set up. Basically though, you will either need to purchase a PC headset (that has two separate jacks on the end; one for audio and one for microphone) or you'll need to buy an adapter similar to this if you get one with a single jack at the end. The headphone one goes into the XBox One controller for game audio and the microphone one goes into the line-in on your PC and use it as your microphone in OBS.

I have tried recording audio on phones with cheap lav mics and I got usable results. I also tried a shotgun mic with my phones and it did a very good job. Of course I needed to buy a headphone-mic splitter to connect a 3.5mm mic to the phone (just plugging a 3.5mm mic in phone doesn't work). You can get these splitters for couple of dollars on ebay.
The phone headsets record sound well, so you can use them too.

Please be aware that you will need to do more work in post (syncing, cleaning up noise, trying to match the qualities between multiple recordings) but it is worth a try if you don't have money to spend.

For android, I tried this app and found it well suited for my needs.
This app let me records USB mics using OTG cable. Worked extremely well.
I don't use iPhone so I don't know any apps but I am sure you can find some good ones.
Good luck.

I actually have the 598 and vmoda boom mic, but I'm currently using the vmoda mic with my ad700s. You can use a Y splitter like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_h3vzwb5YR272P to pair the two together.

Alternatively, you can pick up the Phillips SHP9500 that has a 3.5mm jack that pairs nicely with vmodas.

https://youtu.be/aipXii-qWiQ pretty knowledgeable guy reviewing the SHP9500. Praises the headsets for being really good. Around 6mins in you can see him plug in the vmodas directly to the headset.

https://youtu.be/R6p9a_a-T_4 here's another video of him reviewing the microphone itself(also paired with the SHP9500)

Hope you find this useful.

You want DVI to HDMI, you can get an adapter or just a straight DVI/HDMI cable.

For audio the audio jacks are both combined digital optical and phono. For digital audio you need a Toslink to 3.5mm adapter or cable (and obviously a digital optical input on your sound system). If you have a digital optical cable around just get an adapter for super cheap. If you don't have digital audio you can just get a headphone to RCA adapter or cable for stereo.

A more optimized distribution for Kodi than just running it on Mac OS might be nice, but I don't think it would be critical, it's not horrifically slow, but you'll have to test and see. Easiest thing to do since you got it for free is just make a new user (so you've got a good clean user account without years of someone else crap in the way) and try running Kodi from there, if it's good then you can clear out the old account or whatever at your leisure. If it's not up to snuff then consider installing openelec or something along those lines.

here are two apps (.exe, not win10 apps) that can help with noise redux/sound quality

• http://vb-audio.pagesperso-orange.fr/
  
• http://www.hermannseib.com/english/vsthost.htm
  
  the first is a free 'digital mixing board' that gives you control over all or most of the sounds coming through your pc, and what gets sent out-- to obs/xsplit/etc. you then can choose 'voicemeeter' as a source in obs.
  
  the second is a sandbox of sorts for adjusting sound input (from mic or other sources) with eq, noise gate, gain boost, just to name a few. search 'vsthost plugins' and I'm sure you'll find more than you need.
  
  so to answer your 2 questions:
  

1. with voicemeeter (and banana) you can choose two separate usb mics as inputs, as well as differentiating your onboard audio-- so altogether, three sound sources. I run my mic through vsthost, with an vb-cable as an output, which is then an input source for voicemeeter.
   
   
2. do you want a headset specifically to hear as well as amplify your voice? or do you just want the mic function. a y-splitter (this one, for example) will let you use regular stereo headphones (you can pick your favorite ones) as well as the mic. even with a usb mic, voicemeeter will allow you to hear whatever else is routed through the board. I would suggest spending a bit more on a quality mic, not a decent headset.

> Do you have them?

I have them and their big brother, the HD 800.

> Do they induce headaches because of the band?

They are widely considered one of the most comfortable lines of headphones on the market, and I certainly agree. They are made of study plastic and ultra-soft velour. They do not induce headaches or irritate my ears, and I consider myself vulnerable to these sorts of things.

> All I need to do is plug them into the headphone jack on any fitting device

The stock termination is 1/4'' TRS (big headphone jack), which may not fit in your computer or other source player. The HD 558 ships with a 1/4''-to-1/8'' converter, but many people find it bulky. I recommend this Grado adapter cable, Grado being a headphone company we all know and love.

> and it'll output 7.1 warranted it's available?

Don't worry about how many speakers you're supposed to be hearing. If you're a fan of surround sound, I guarantee any (well-mastered) recording will sound phenomenal to you through these cans. Sennheiser headphones are known and praised for this quality.

I doubt if there will any 5700XT variant that comes with DVI. I suppose the only pathway would be to use and active DP to DVI adapter - something like this for example - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Accell-B087B-005B-UltraAV-Display-Certified-Black/dp/B004071ZX0/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1Y6KH8DPX0YZ1&keywords=active+dp+to+dvi+cable&qid=1567179295&refinements=p_72%3A419153031&rnid=1642204031&s=computers&sprefix=dp+to+dvi+cable+active%2Caps%2C148&sr=1-2

Make sure that whatever adapter/cable you get is active, that should make it possible for you to get your full refresh rate of 144Hz.

Hope that helps and all the best :)

Peace <3

I think I linked to the wrong adapter! You need to make sure the end that plugs into your iDevice is a TRRS, which stands for Tip Ring Ring Sleeve. That's the one with 4 metal sections and 3 plastic insulators in between, like this one or this one. Edit: on my last shoot, I actually used the iRig Pre with a similar cable to feed a pro shotgun mike into a Canon 7D as backup audio for an interview. Not ideal, due to the Canon's noisy preamp, but usable in a pinch. Good thing, too as my primary audio was a Zoom H4N which ran out of batteries in the middle, hosing a 9-minute take! Aargh! I did manage to recover all but the last minute or so by using an arcane method of opening a disc image of the SD card as raw data in Audacity as found in this Creative Cow Thread. Anyway, yay for redundancy! Good luck!

First, I know you said you don't care about bass all that much, but for EDM, bass impact on the HD598 is just about nonexistant. It rolls off slightly less in the sub-bass (the rumbling part), but it also has a lot less mid-bass (the "punches") than your current headphones. Should be great for some classic rock and gaming, though. Also, the HD558 is quite similar to the HD598 (same driver, different damping / housing) and $50 cheaper. In graph form: http://graphs.headphone.com/graphCompare.php?graphType=0&graphID[]=3301&graphID[]=2851&graphID[]=2861&scale=20

In terms of your question - I think the other suggestion for a Fulla 2 is a good idea to save some money. It has more power than you need now (in fact, you probably don't really need a separate amp to drive either headphone). The Fulla 2 has both a fixed and a variable line out, and it mutes the line out if you plug headphones in. You would probably need a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33 as well as a 1/4 to 1/8 inch adapter.

Fiio e10k is also not a bad option, but only has a fixed line out (and less power than the Fulla 2, not that it matters in your case).

Any "gaming headsets" are usually overpriced for what they offer, but if you want wireless, the most recommend are the Gold headset by Playstation.

However, if you don't mind a Y splitter, then you can also connect a Modmic and a headset, here is a good list of reviewed headsets specifically to see how good they are for gaming.

Edit: also, if you want a more expensive headset but don't want to pass your $100 budget, you can always get a cheaper mic. I used a zalman mic for a good year before getting a modmic, sound quality was amazing for the price, but no noice cancelation.

That was my problem too in the beginning. This may get a little long, but I can definitely help you out.

Elgato has page to help with this issue

I use the original Elgato HD and at first I had a headset with a USB and 3.5mm headphone jack, so I had to make a little jerry rig setup with a splitter and an audio Y cable

But if you are willing to spend some money, I highly recommend getting this headset
Its what I am using now because I can talk to my teammates in game, hear my tv audio, and listen to music or donation goals on my PC since it has a multi media source input.

I hope this helps.

It will generally work fine to have a little network extension overlap on the same SSID for stationary devices and machines that don't stream content regularly, but for best results from Airplay the fewer the access points the better. Airplay streaming doesn't handle devices transitioning APs very well, and nearly always drop the stream when the source or target device migrate from one access point to another. You can fix this by building a managed wifi deployment with a WLAN controller and fancy APs that manage connections better, but that's way outside the scope of the OP's needs.


You're likely not noticing issues because you're streaming from a generally fixed location source device (desktop / laptop running iTunes) to a fixed location endpoint (Airport Express). If you start streaming music to your Airport Express from an iPhone, iPad, iPod, or a laptop you're carrying and move around your house, you'll likely experience streaming drops and inconsistent audio performance.

Oh, and if you'd like to use any of your much more common toslink-connector optical cables, a 1/8" optical adapter can be had on amazon for $2.04

I hope I get shot down for this but I absolutely hate the combined sensors. It's mostly a matter of principle in using magnets vs accelerometers to me but I've had rougher rides outside and every now and then I found myself having to readjust the sensor to get closer to the revolving magnet on the spoke.

I like the idea of Bluetooth/Ant+ but probably won't make that switch until Garmin does this or Wahoo ups the reliability to their accelerometer based offerings. I ended up with the Garmin speed and cadence sensors mainly because how rugged they looked and they have yet to let down. Downside to Ant+, that I have yet to experience yet, is having to use a dongle for your computer.

With regards to the cadence sensor (Garmin), the 3 slit design makes for a ridiculously good hold. The combined sensor relies on you removing your pedals which is a pain in the ace if you ever realize you made a mistake purchasing one.

The speed sensor is beautiful in that it wraps around the hub and I've been on a set and forget mindset ever since purchasing it.

If you're up for a potential hassle then I'd go for the Wahoo speed and cadence sensors. That seems like a high risk high reward in being able to gain Bluetooth functionality and drop a dongle. I on the other hand don't want to mess with what works and got the Garmin pair of sensors and that seems to work well for me. I'm too deep in the Garmin game at this point to turn back but I'm really hoping Wahoo ups their game so Garmin will finally develop some Bluetooth/ant+ sensors to ween people off the inevitable Ant+ downfall (probably in 3 yrs).

DO IT(playing it safe):
Garmin Bike Speed Sensor and Cadence Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JM6DKUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b8BfAbMW4D35X
+
Garmin USB ANT Stick for Garmin Fitness Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CM381SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q9BfAbBPSWVDZ
+(Recommend)
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y-BfAbB526SE8

Risky:
Wahoo RPM Speed and Cadence sensor for iPhone, Android and Bike Computers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E0YRQIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_68BfAb3RQD1J8

Going Garmin obviously requires more stuff but I'd say it's worth it. Make sure to measure the wheel circumference or try googling it so your training is accurate.

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).
   
   
2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.
   
   
3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs
   
   
4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.
   
   Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.

Two options for you, I recommend both to many people and use the extender cable myself:
 
When you say "Mic Cable" I am assuming you mean a 4 pole 3.5mm audio cable with a built in mic, either inline such as a cell phone earbud cable or a boom mic like the VMODA BoomPro. I use the BoomPro at my home desk, and have this cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RXNUXGS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DOWH6
Run the cable from back of computer onboard audio, up the back of you desk, and route it through the cable management area of your monitor. you now have a dual jack right under your screen to put your headset on whenever you need to call and cant use the FiiO

Alternatively, leave your headphone as is, forget the mic cable, and get a USB mic. alot of people recommend the Blue Snowball and it is a great mic but also rather large for a usual office desk. I rather like the Blue Snowflake, its almost as good sound quality, perfectly adequate for conference calls and other non recording production needs, and much much smaller:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowflake-Ultra-portable-High-fidelity-USB/dp/B0012AUHXW

Use any headset you want. Here's what I did...

Buy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZOVW0Q

But get the one that only comes with just mic. Not the splitter+mic, as this splitter won't do what you need it to.

Next, you need a splitter that's compatible: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ

With this setup you can use any headphones you want. I personally use the Sennheiser HD 598's. They are extremely comfortable, with amazing sound. Best of all they have open vented ears so there is proper airflow which really helps audio sound extra wonderful.

Short answer, yes they will be worth the trouble. It takes all of 30 seconds to fix a pair of old wires.

What you need to look at is the actual speakers.

• You want to see if the Ohms (Ω) match the amp thats driving it.
  
• You want to make sure there are no rips in the speaker cones.
  
• If you have a small amp, you could test them before hand. Or if you have a digital multimeter, test the resistance (see ohms above) and make sure youre getting a number close to the rating printed on the magnet or near the terminals. This will let you know the speakers out of the back of the speaker enclosure are connected all the way through.
  
  I've garbage picked my fair share of speakers. you would be surprised what people think is trash. My college house was filled with throwaway speakers and they sounded great.
  
  EDIT: you cannot wire speakers directly to a headphone jack. you need to put an amplifier between the speakers and the audio source. This is a DIY project favorite: http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-TRIPATH-TA2020-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B003P534SW/ref=pd_sxp_f_i
  
  However, if you're looking at goodwill, i would just try to pick up an old 2-channel audio receiver then order this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33

I suggest getting a different 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter, as the one that comes with the HD599 tends to put a lot of stress on the 3.5mm jack, as you may already have noticed. Something like this adapter from Sennheiser will work great:

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y

The Grado adapter should work fine as well and is cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO

And there are other adapters like this one for Hosa which are cheaper still:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MHE-100-5-Right-Angle-Headphone-Adaptor/dp/B000068O6B/

Or just use the shorter cable with a 3.5mm connector that comes with the HD599 if you can. Anyway, that's a great setup to get started on the hobby. Now you can feel free to never visit this sub again to save yourself some (ok, probably a lot of) money.

Thanks for the advice man, this gives me a lot of stuff to test out which will help me get to the issue much faster.

I've switched the 3 pole plugs around. When I do, the audio stops working and the mic works, but it's very quiet, so that just makes another problem lol.

I've also taken another spare headset and both mic and audio work. I haven't been able to test it on another Xbox controller yet.

Right now I believe the main culprit is the 2-1 adapter it comes with. People have suggested that those with the same issue should get a new 4 Post Y Splitter, or a better quality 2-1 adapter. If the same issue persists on a PS4 controller then I'll be switching to another adapter, since some good quality ones are only about $5-$6. Here's a link to an adapter that was suggested to me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ?at=&force-full-site=1&pc_redir=T1&redirect=true

Thanks so much for your help, and I'll be troubleshooting soon.

Heres a good budget headphone option.

https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIA7NT5JX7120

Here's a mic, any mic will do as long as it's detachable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002EQ6E9E/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FKTC7528BMW6EMA91NB1&dpPl=1&dpID=71jX0sibQ1L

And here's and audio and microphone splitter. Make sure the splitter you end up getting has a dedicated audio and dedicated microphone input.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501544553&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=audio+and+mic+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41ifj0%2BHelL&ref=plSrch


This is the braided cable and heatshrink. The cable to manage the separate cables, also you can personalized the color, and it looks cool honestly. There's also some heatshrink it just seals the end of cable sleeves.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UHJCFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501544947&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=braided+cable+sleeves&dpPl=1&dpID=41B4XLeDZpL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NI3LOQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501545009&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=heatshrink%2B3%2F4inch&dpPl=1&dpID=41wA38KfTAL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1


And finally here's a video on what you'll be doing with the above cable and heatshrink.

https://youtu.be/xWR4yYGd3u4

One last remark, the price of all this starts at around $30 dollars or so. The rest of the price is up to you on what headphones you end up choosing.

Visit r/Headphones for recommendations and an idea of what makes good headphones...good.

Why don't you just get an extension USB male to female cable?
even an old "non USB 2.0" cable like this one works perfectly. I don't have this exact cable but I use a USB extension cable that I bought back in 2003 or 2004 for my shine 5 and it works perfectly.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-USB-Extension-Cable-10-Feet/dp/B00001ZWXA
The one I have looks pretty identical to this.

If you want something more "modern" I'm sure this will work too.http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable--Male--Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/

Up to 10 feet.

> So... I think you're saying you don't need to drive anything but the LEDs built into the case, correct? And you specifically want to do it via software, not hardware?

Right. I was just asking whether the case lights (the 4 RGB strips and the RGB ring around the power button) can all be Y-connector-ed to one 12v header, or if that's too much to be putting on one header for voltage or current reasons. And yes, I want everything to be synced up in Aura.


> Generally, but isn't the JST SM connector 3-pin, rather than 4-pin? It is on my case, but it's possible you have something else.

The JST SM connectors coming out of the lights on my case are 4-pin, and Phanteks website (and Amazon) offers a cable that adapts this to the more standard 4 pin RGB connector. So it looks like I'll need two of those (the top cover and front panel lights are each already Y'd together, so you have one wire coming out of each) which I'll then Y together using a splitter with standard RGB connectors at both ends.


> I thought you meant general instructions for a wide range of hookups. If you just meant more comprehensive than they have now, I'd definitely agree with you.

I mean, even just a simple diagram of the RGB contoller's connections and a few notes about what the channels do would have been very helpful. I have no idea how this guy figured out what needs to be connected to what other than simple trial and error.

I have the same iMac and posed the same question a week or so ago:
https://www.reddit.com/r/apple/comments/6onhhl/2017_kaby_lake_imacs_oculus_cv1_via_bootcamp/?st=J5W5Z9RV&sh=e97114be

I didn't buy the iMac with any intention of VR(my 2012 rMBP was getting a bit slow), but then I realised when re-watching the WWDC keynote, that the CPU & GPU are pretty decent for VR, so I jumped on the Rift sale and ordered a Rift+ Touch bundle. It still hasn't shipped yet. 😠

After setting up a 500Gb Windows partition(3TB Fusion drive) and installing Windows 10, I ran the Steam VR test and it said they my system was comfortably 'VR Ready'.
Oculus' test didn't recognise the GPU, but other people have said that just because it's relatively new, and it shouldn't be an issue, as Steam's test actually tests the hardware, whereas Oculus' just looks at the hardware names.
https://imgur.com/gallery/vp5yc

I already have this HDMI to USB-C adapter,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MYUCWOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nLk58jyQ3vQ56

... and this awesome USB 3 extended hub, for the new iMacs:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AA6MC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Zgxdf5QjDRyVk

so I'm good to go!
https://imgur.com/gallery/Xiv4T

You'll surely be down-voted for merely having the audacity to mention anything Mac related in an Oculus sub, but don't sweat it. I got over that a long time ago. 😎

Sure. The audio can be a little tricky but here is what I have. The easiest thing would be if your home theater system or tv accepted optical inputs so that you could use the xbox's built in optical and connect if directly to your tv or home theater system without doing any conversions. If that does not work you have to convert the optical to a 3.5mm connection or a rca audio connection (these are the red and white components next to your dvi connection) . The way to do that is by way of adapter or cords. Like others have stated adapters might give you latency problems. So a cord might prove the better way to go. Ultimately for your connection it looks like you will have to go from optical to 3.5mm to RCA audio. Conversely the newer controllers have a 3.5mm connection built into it. So you would just have to go from 3.5mm to RCA audio.

I'll try to find links but hopefully this gives you a starting point.

Edit

Start with this or {this + this} then convert that signal to RCA with this

-In theory this should work

dongles my man. I also have twin 1080Ti's, but sometimes I plug in an oculus and that has to use the single HDMI port on the card. so I got me one of these for my main display. If you have an older display, You can get an adaptor for that too. or even if you need a vga adaptor you can get that too.

most 1080Tis will have 2 or 3 displayports and only a single hdmi, so getting displayport adaptors is a better choice.

and its better to get adaptors like this rather than hdmi to displayport cables (for example) because then you have a lot more flexibility. like you don't need to re-run your cables to your monitor, only plug in the adaptor at the computer end and plug it into the card.

Hardware:

Cooler Master 90 degree MB 24 adapter
EVGA RTX Link
Heat shrink / cable sleeve

Wanted to share this as I literally just found out about it. I struggled with making my MB adapter “neat” but then found the CM 90 adapter and it’s so good. I cleared about 3 inches of cable from inside my case. If you must you are able to link 2 of these together and literally move the power cable almost to the back of the case. I purchased two but because I fit a 280 cooler where it wasn’t supposed to go prevents me from fitting. [Amazon Link](Cooler Master CMA-CEMB01XXBK1-GL... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HZ6B6R1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

EVGA link - moves the cables from in front and away from the main glass of the case and shifts the pins to the right side of the card. [Link](EVGA PowerLink, Support All... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ1YEYH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

The heat shrink / custom sleeve is cool and I did it at the same time. [heatshrink](100ft - 1 inch Flexo PET... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GPHW6B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

Hope this helps you like it helped me!

>I'm trying to figure out how to get my setup working to where I use only one microphone and one set of headphones to hear all audio from game and stream -- and then speak to everyone in stream and game.

I'm assuming the step you are missing is how to get the audio from your mixer into the Xbox?

I think you'd have to get a splitter that you plug into to the headset connector on your xbox controller.

Then you send the headphone part of the splitter into the mixer and use the direct out of your mixer channelstrip to send the microphone to the Xbox one. So in addition to the splitter you'd need cables to connect the mixer ins/outs to the 3.5mm jacks on the splitter.

>Additionally, my wife and I stream together pretty consistently, so I would like the ability to add her mic into the mix as well. The only issue being microphone bleedover -- is the best option for multiple mics just using a very sensitive noisegate in OBS?

If you both appear on the same stream simultaneously and you have no need to completely mute either you or your wife, bleedover is a non-issue, isn't it?

It doesn't really matter if you're not planning on separating the channels after the fact or anything like that. The only thing bleedover will do in the typical case is make you sound a tiny bit "roomier" because of the added indirect sound.

Just make sure to arrange your microphones in an advantageous way to maximize the separation/minimize bleedover, that should be enough. Assuming both microphones have cardioid patterns, the ideal arrangement is that you are looking at each other (the microphones look in the opposite directions)

What's your budget?

I'd get a good set of headphones. Do a bit of research to find the best pair that fits your budget. I own the Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250Ohms. I'm happy with it. It's an open back headset so sound will leak in and out. If you prefer more isolation, look into closed back or semi-open.

Get the headset adapter for the Xbox One for $25.49.

Add a clip on mic like this Zalman Zm-Mic1 for $7.56.

Finally, you'll need a 3.5 mm splitter to join the headphones and mic. The thing you want to make sure is that there are three stripes on the plug. If you look at the plug on your typical set of headphones, you'll notice the plug only has two stripes. For the adapter, you have to make sure there are three stripes cause that's what allows you to combine the microphone and headset. Here are a couple of options: 1 and 2.

For my exact set up, you're looking at exactly $183 before taxes. You'll have a much better pair of headphones than what you'd get if you went with a Turtle Beach headset that's in the same price range.

I always reccommend the QNIX QX-2710. since it's the most budget friendly and is just as good as other Korean 1440p monitors with the added bonus of being overclockable

• $275-$300
  
  
• 1440p
  
• PLS Panel (Samsungs equivalent of IPS)
  
• 27"
  *Overclockable up to 120hz
  
  (usually reaches around the 90's on average)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  What video outputs does your GTX 590 Have?
  
  For the desktop you'll likely be able to keep all 3 monitors hooked up, you just need to make sure that the 1440p monitor is connected using Dual Link DVI which your card may have and if not you can do through some variant of display port adapter like a DP or Mini-DP to DL-DVI adapter and you can use the remaining video output for the 2x 1080p monitors
  
  For the Macbook pro you can do the same thing, just use one mini display port adapter to DL-DVI, and another adapter to one of the video inputs that the peripheral 1080p monitor accepts and you can use the HDMI for the 3rd monitor using the second 1080p one you own.

To simply play files, most laptop or iPod, iPhone or whatever device is going to sound fine. Just buy from quality sources like the iTunes shop and you'll be fine.

If you were running any sort of DJ software, then a USB audio interface might be useful to give you higher level outputs and a dedicated headphone monitor connection. My recommendation if you go down that path is the NI Traktor Audio 2.

http://www.amazon.com/Native-Instruments-Traktor-Audio-Interface/dp/B00FYQFPFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404302468&sr=8-1&keywords=Traktor+audio+2

To help with your terminology, you'll most likely be plugging into a house mixer or amplifier input, and thus you'll most likely want a 3.5mm TRS to Dual RCA Cable, like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR210-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O3B/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404302305&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+to+dual+RCA

...but do check what the inputs you'll be connecting to to confirm exactly what cable you'll need.

At the very least you're gonna need an 1/8 to RCA cable to plug into your turntable or tape deck and then plug into your mic jack. This isn't ideal because the sound quality isn't going to be the greatest doing it this way but if your sound is lofi anyway it's not really going to matter, just remember you can always bump your sample quality down after the fact but not up when sampling.

Like everyone else has said though, an audio interface is the way to go. You could get a soundcard if you were so inclined but I think just getting a USB interface is easier plus they're way more portable and you can use em on your desktop or laptop. I've got a few friends that use the Focusrite Scarlett and they say good things about it, I myself use an old Line 6 POD for my sampling and output to my deck and it does the trick.

I don't know about cost-effective, but as an FYI to anyone looking for high-quality HDTV upscaling... Micomsoft's XRGB Mini Framemeister is generally considered the best upscaling solution for classic consoles -> HDTV: http://www.amazon.com/DP3913515-Framemeister-Micomsoft-Upscaler-Import/dp/B006H39XJS

You can probably find a better price than the link above.

If you are on a newish Mac and use an iPhone, Ecamm released Call Recorder for FaceTime which will obviously record FaceTime on the Mac but it will also record plain old telephone calls that were handed off to the Mac from your iPhone. Then it allows you to split channels for each side of the conversation. Very nice.

http://www.ecamm.com/mac/callrecorderft/

Ecamm also makes the pretty darn good Call Recorder for Skype that would let you record a Skype In or Out call.

http://www.ecamm.com/mac/callrecorder/

You can also use something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/

and just pipe your phone into your mixer. I've had issues with that on my iPhone. Worked on my Android tablet though. Audio only of course.

!

They are pretty efficient, so anything decent should do. I think a Schiit Magni 2 fed from your onboard would be your best choice, but something like a Schiit Fulla 2 or Fiio E10K would also do fine. You might even be fine running it straight out of your onboard sound. If you do decide to run it out of something with a 3.5mm jack, get an adapter like this to ensure that an accidental yank of the cable does not break anything. Solid adapters like this are a really bad idea.

if your summing up all the tracks in your mixer and you want to keep it simple and just record the stereo mix, i'd go for the tascam. i've got an olympus ls11, which is basically the same design. it's super simple and sounds great. i love recording this way, i only have to bring a computer into the equation for an occasional bit of normalization and long term archiving.

get you one of these cables and you're good to go.

Labtec LVA7330 ClearVoice Head Microphone (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00000JBRV/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_aOWJub1E1RF8N

StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wPWJub1KW72C9

This is the setup I have. Works great. Mic is excellent quality. Just add whatever headphones you like as long as they have a 3.5mm jack which is pretty much the standard, then your good to go. You could use a pair of headphones you already have and buy this mic and adapter and your all set.

Pretty much. I'm using the HyperX Cloud II, so I had to take the 4-pole male and have it split to two 3.5mm male to separate the mic and sound using a headset to PC adapter. I'm using something like this.

Here's a wiring diagram with a Modmic.

To get the chat to work appropriately, you need to smash the party button on the chat adapter until it's 100% party (it beeps).

Here's a link to another thread on the subject if it helps for point of reference.

*Edit: If X1 supported generic USB audio like the PS4, this is what the wiring diagram would look like. So much cleaner and no cables anchoring the wireless controller.

Yeah. I know it sucks, I was expecting HDMI as well. This is a pretty nifty little device that lets you do dvi to hdmi: http://www.amazon.com/Gefen-HDMI-Cable-feet-Male-Male/dp/B0002CZHN6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417659405&sr=1-2&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi
If you already have a DVI and HDMI cable, they also have this device: http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417659405&sr=1-3&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi
They're 5 bucks, so that should work pretty good for your purposes. Hope this helps

I actually just bought a PS3 last week and had the same questions. Thankfully, while I had no help from others I figured it out myself.

I have a Dell LCD monitor (1920x1080) that I connect to my PS3 with and a set of speakers for audio output.

Mine works perfectly fine and I have never had any problems with display (or any of the horror stories that you mentioned.)

I do not have MW3, but I do have many games that output video from 720p to 1080i to 1080p and they all work fine and look completely natural as you would expect.

Pieces of hardware that you will need:
A HDMI to DVI cable, a 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2X RCA Female Adapter or Y splitter as some people call it, and female stereo coupler if you are going to plug it into a speaker instead of your PC. If just using PC speakers, then you do not need a coupler.

As for monitor recommendations, chose any that have a 1920x1080 resolution and has a DVI connector (most modern monitors should have this as default).

Hope this helps!


Edit: If you have any questions, feel free to ask! I remember how confused I was trying to set everything up.

I'd rather use a headset mic because of people around the house can be picked up pretty easily through it, but if i can't find some type of adapter, then i can manage like that, then.

EDIT= Would something like this work? I just pulled it from the first amazon link i saw, so i might get a better quality one if this is the correct type of adapter. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ

I can help with the kid's keyboard part. This is pretty bootleg, but it'll work. I'm not the best at explaining things, if you need clarification, let me know.

• Unscrew and open up the keyboard
  
• Clip the two wires that attach to the speaker
  
• Strip the ends of the aforementioned two wires
  
• Find any mono audio cable (you could use a guitar patch cable, a single RCA cable, etc. Just make sure you have the proper adapters to plug it into the line-in on your sound card)
  
• Strip one end of the audio cable (it should expose two sets of wire)
  
• This part takes a little trial and error (and is the tricky part to explain): Wrap the ends of the wire that used to be hooked up to the speaker to the ends of the wire on the audio cable... Keep the wire groups separate.
  
• Test and see if you're getting audio out of it by hooking it up to an amp or your computer. If no, swap the connections (unwrap the wires and wrap them with the other ones)
  
• When everything works, get some electrical tape and cover your newly created connections.
  
• You may want to drill a small hole to feed your newly created output cable through, just to keep everything looking pretty.
  
• Put yer keyboard back together.
  
  If you can get something like this you can mount the female portion to the keyboard and create a more standard output (instead of being limited by the length of your created cable). edit: You can remove the speaker and use that newly reclaimed room to mount the output.
  
  Hope this helps.

You should check amazon for an extension bracket thing that makes it so you can hide your cables to the GPU easier! It’s like 5$ when on sale but probably like 15-20 normally. If you find it on sale I would say grab it cuz it makes your cables come out the side of the GPu rather than the front plus it will match since it’s made by EVGA. Your setup looks very clean though nice job! Only thing I would’ve done is maybe flip the AIO tubes but I mean that’s personal preference....

here I found the link

I have some HDD at home that I will be reformatting and that will give me like 6TB of space.

Yes I am replacing all the fans :) either that or sticking them on the wall right next to me so I can have some breeze from my hardcore gaming sessions lol

Thank you for the heads up on the cables. Will something like this work?

My setup is quite simple

• StarTech MUYHSFMM
  
• StarTech.com 2m 3.5mm 4 Position TRRS Headset Extension Cable
  
• Skullcandy Smokin Buds 2 Mic
  
  The beauty of this setup is that you can use any headphones with inline microphone and it'll work well for the most part, which is nice.
  
  Still cheaper than most gaming headsets and you can have a nicer sound quality :)

Thank you very much for the suggestion. I hopped into a game of cod and tried it out and it DOES seem to work; although I only had time for one game I will definitely test it out more tomorrow. If it does continue to be buggy do you think something like this would do me any good?

Meaning I would unplug the green sound plug from the back of my monitor, plug both the green and pink into their respective plugs in the headset splitter adapter, then the male of that into the xbox stereo adapter.

Lol I'm sorry if I confused you at all but once again thanks a lot for your help.

Get one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B006T65CXE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1ACC88SKS414XTTG56V8

one of these, your call on how much you care about voice quality.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=clip+on+mic


these kick the shit out of any console gaming headphones. You're paying for an "interesting" color scheme and a giant logo, it's a bit of a racket. good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-280-Pro-Headphones/dp/B000065BPB/ref=sr_1_10?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1479579378&sr=1-10&keywords=sennheiser

I generally reach for the PS3 controller if I don’t already have strong feelings about a replica controller, it works well on a lot of games. I also find it to be the most comfortable and intuitive controller, so it’s usually nice to use.

As someone who collects retro replica controllers to get that “original game” experience, I highly recommend a long male to female usb extension cord. I’ve got a basket of controllers next to the couch, and with the extension cord I can change controllers without getting up. Just mentioning it because it makes switching so much easier.

There's a very simple and cheap, entirely passive two-step adapter solution I'm using myself:

First, you need an RCA to 3.5mm adapter, one of these (although you can find it for cents if you're looking around a bit). This adapter was originally meant to go the other direction, but we want the opposite, so we need a 3.5mm double female coupler.

So, instead of plugging the audio into the converter, it goes into the above adapter. Plug your speakers or headphones into the other end of the coupler and you're done.

If you have a console like the PS2, Gamecube, Wii or original Xbox, I would recommend not using a composite to HDMI adapter, but instead a component to HDMI adapter. As the name implies, the image signal gets split into three different color channels via three separate wires, which results in much higher image quality and stability. These cables are more expensive, as are converters, but the difference is substantial.

With systems like the SNES or older, I can not recommend a simple HDMI converter, since the types of signals these systems produce are not suited to simple analog to digital conversion. I wrote a bit about this here, if you're interested. I go into much further detail in some replies.

Almost all converters introduce additional lag, but there are pricey ones that reduce the delay to almost nothing. What's your budget and which systems are you trying to connect to your monitor?

behringer is not a good idea it a pa system which is specifically for covering ground and being loud nothing clean crisp about it and for the 550$ you'd be much happier buying a nice set of simple bookshelf speakers you already have the Sony's which should achieve a good sound as is the receiver should supply enough power to the sony's. personally id say stick with your Sony's you should have a good sound out of them as is. a rca - 1/8" could be an awesome solution allowing you to plug in ipods and mp3 players into your reciver for cheap - [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1370239205&sr=1-2&keywords=rca+to+1+8+inch%5C)
as for cables they should be fine you pay for aesthetics but unless the cables are giving you problems i would say leave them
they can go right on the floor or you could look in to some speaker stand it will raise the drivers to ear level helping achieve a better sound but they aren't necessary

No, that shouldnt be necessary, the 6+2's will work, just take the +2 off. And I had the same issue, I have the same PSU but no big companies make sleeved cables for it. I would recommend these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

silverstone cable extensions, theyre cheap, work with any PSU and look great, just attach them to the end of the black evga cables from your psu. Have them in my system and love them.

youve probably found pretty much the best thing for that price. most of the stuff at that will be complete crap but at you cant go wrong with logitech.
as for a usb extension this one should do
I joined the master race last year and so far its been great so have fun in your adventures.

I would get a headset / adapter personally. I think you can get a much better deal. I got the Steelseries Siberia v2 with this spliter cable for the 2 3.5mm jacks, and the sound quality is AMAZING. For under $100 (headset, adapter, cable) these bad boys are well worth it. I even checked out the XO 4 and 7's as well as other various TB headsets (at gamestop) and imo the sound quality was not nearly as good. Not to mention having gamed for years I haev had a lot of freaking headsets in the past, these are sooooo comfortable you wont realize they are on (I fell asleep with them on last night listening to a movie and fiancee had to take them off me lol). They self adjust to fit your head (but not toooo snug and tight), the mic pops back into the earcup when dont need it, and the ear cups are HUGE, my ears are completely covered, it really dampers outside noise, with them on (not even listening to music) I can barely hear the person speaking thats next to me

I'm not totally sure I follow what you're doing, but it sounds like you might need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ

Maybe combined with a female-female TRRRS a coupler, depending on what you're going for in the end. It sounds like the Vive headset doesn't have the third Ring for microphone input, so you'll need to split it off and send it separately somehow. You might actually want to get one of those tiny USB sound cards (with separate headset and Mic ports) and plug it into the Vive, then plug the Mic cord from this adapter into it with a male-male coupler.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LH1NQ9W

Like /u/PhoenixAV said, just get a webcam (I have the same one, it's rock solid), you might need a USB extender (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/ this works fine, would not go much farther)

For sound, I'd highly recommend getting a simple Jabra Speak 410 https://www.amazon.com/Jabra-Speak-Speakerphone-Retail-Packaging/dp/B007SHJIO2/ It's got decent sound for voice, some mute, volume controls. Between that and the webcam, you can support 4 or 5 people on a call and look professional at the same time.

Good luck!

The issue is your HDTV will not receive 240p signals.

240p is a "hack" of the tradition timing signals in a 480i video signal, which made each alternating field appear on the same set of lines, rather than alternating them. This allowed for a higher framerate at a perceived lower resolution. It also gave "retro" games the classic "scanline" effect we all remember so fondly, because each alternating line didn't have any video being projected onto it, so it appeared black.

A handful of later N64 games (The THPS series and Madden 2001 both included) use both modes interimittently, usually using the higher resolution for menus, allowing the lower resolution (but higher framerate) for gameplay.

Since, technically, this 240p mode is not part of the NTSC standard, modern TVs just don't support it. They "think" they're missing 1/2 of the signal, so they don't process it, and you get a black screen.

That is your issue.

To fix it, you need an upscaler which accepts this signal type. This is a huge rabbit hole, that depending on your dedication to retro-gaming as a hobby, and your budget, can cost anywhere from $25 to $400.

The $400 solution, which looks astounding on HDTV's, is the XRGB mini.

It costs this much because it is a dedicated piece of hardware that accepts everything from composite video to RGB SCART video, as well as component (via D-Terminal) and HDMI inputs.

It makes old games look as crisp as emulators do on HDTVs, and also allows for adjustable scanlines to be added. It lets you adjust color saturation and sharpness and about 10 other settings to make each console look perfect. It can be bought HERE.

The $25 solution is called an AV2HDMI and it is the best-looking out of the lower priced options, and it actually outclasses many composit-upscalers I have personally tested (it outclasses one that actually cost $120).

There is no reason to buy anything in between these two options, unless you are getting an SCART RGB upscaler. HERE is some captured footage of it working with an N64.


TL:DR: The old signal type isn't supported by your new TV, and the easy way to fix it is to buy a $25 AV2HDMI adapter

>Why? It just seems more practical to tell someone they need a monitor, instead of them buying all the PC parts for a desktop and then not knowing what to do next. The "same price" comparison really only works for a HTPC because a price of a TV cancels out on both sides since both can be used.

They dont know how to use the free hdmi cable to plug it into a tv? Whut....


>Then long cords. My couch is 10ft. away from my TV.

Yeah sure

Here ya go

Splitter too for anything else you need

$8 in addition. Price of a TV doesnt cancel out anything for me, most peasants are perfectly willing to drop (or already have) $500+ for a tv, which if budgeted correctly can mean an even faster pc. For instance if someone has a $1000 budget total for a gaming system and a television, $500 for ps4 (online and a game) and $500 for a 50 inch 1080p tv can easily be turned into a $600 PC and $400 45 inch tv etc. Same cannot be said for a console budget, you cannot spend more and get more with a console

Neither: Get an Audio-Technica M40x/M50x or Sennheiser HD 598 and an Antilion ModMic, both of which will beat the quality of the sound/microphone of the Astros. If you really want surround sound, you can use Razer Surround to virtualize it, similar to what the "gaming" headsets do. Also, if you only have one headphone jack free, you can use an adapter like this.

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask any questions!

ATI Radeon 5870 Eyefinity Edition. link
got one of these and it's currently powering 5 monitors.

If you don't have display port, you need "active adapters" for everything above 2 non-display port. You also can't use analog VGA monitors. (they have to be digital)

Here's an adaptor for $30. link It only works for resolutions up to 1920x1080.

Edit: I haven't really researched the 6950 and 6990 series but those are the newest generation and they might not even need active adapters. I'll look into it ^_^

Here's a page with AMD's new offerings to the table. a few 6950's might be your best bet link

Upon further research, something like this would work well.

The headphones and mic? The easiest way to do it is by using something like this to combine the signals from the mic and the headphones and plug it into either your PS4 controller or X1 chat adapter. In the case of headphones like the Philips X1 that use a 3.5mm input (you plug one of these into the headphones), you can use this, which automatically combines the audio output and mic input signal. Once again though, that doesn't really matter as of now. TL;DR: Use an adaper to combine the mic and headphone jacks and plug them into your controller, piece of cake. If you want more info, you can check out /r/headphones and ask some questions there. We're generally a nice community :)

I'd like to recommend these.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GUU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405881417&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

it's just a usb extender. I have 4, and I've had them for well over a year. since they're just usb extenders, you can use them for pretty much anything. I use them for my phone, iPad, ds4, and a lot more. they're very good quality.

I use this mouse. It is a logitech MX revolution. It is super comfortable with that spot to rest your thumb. And the clicky thing below the mouse wheel lets you select if you want to scroll slowly or quickly.

I also use an Astro A50 headset. This thing is sooo fucking comfortableit's crazy. It was really expensive though, but the wireless can get me a solid 12-15 yards, so I can still listen while I'm in the kitchen.

finally, get one of these and set it up on your table so that if either the mouse or the headset get low on battery you can plug it in and stay seated where you are. But both of those things actually have pretty good battery life. A full nights charge will get you a days worth of gameplay.

Here is where I bought mine and it was the cheapest I found, for US anyway. It says it ships to Germany.

DSS2 Ebay

You will need these two wires to use a mic/headphone. The DSS2 comes with everything else from that ebay listing. Mainly, the optical and power cable.

3.5mm 4-Pin

Some people confuse the above splitter with other look alikes. You need a 4 pin splitter and not a 3 pin.

3.5mm Male To Male Stereo Audio Cable

These are both needed to make a separate mic work and pass the signals and stuff. You can probably find a cheaper 3.5mm male wire though.

Also, like I said above, you still need the microsoft adapter.

Np and Good luck =)

Mine are extensions, since I don't have a fully modular PSU. If yours is modular, definitely get replacement cables instead -- they're better!

The extensions are super nice, though. They're Silverstone, I got them here: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Extension-Motherboard-Connector-PP07-MBW/dp/B00B46XJQ6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1BD3BASXFN0ZHQ8137E3&ref_=pd_cp_147_2

Hooking up the computer to the stereo is easy, you'll need something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33?sa-no-redirect=1

As for controlling it, you may find something like flask is easier, depending on what you're using to control it. What's your hub and home automation setup look like?

So this is the miniDP to DVI-D I adapter I use. I don't have a 144hz monitor (used it for AMD eyefinity) but I know this adapter is active as well as a dual link dvi and I've had it for about ~4years (it still works). I can't guarantee that it supports 144hz but I can't find any adapters that are specifically labeled as what hz they support. So I think its more the fact that the adapter you have is a DVI adapter and not a DVI dual link adapter.

Well, I don't think the problem is on your end. There are multiple reports that this is not working for the XPS. I can recommend [1], with the added benefit of supporting UHD@60 Hz. I also have [2], which I use to hook up additional peripherals with a single cable when at home and which also supports UHD@60.

[1] https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Adapter-Supports-Macbook-Chromebook/dp/B01MYUCWOK

[2] https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B06XQ4SQ85/

Thanks for the reply!

So, what you're saying is that using the E12 in the "default" way (dt770 to E12 input jack, with included male-to-male 3.5mm into E12 output jack and MacBook/iPhone's input jack) is "double amping"? Do you think using a "line out" is absolutely necessary, or would it increase sound quality by only a little bit?

If I used what you suggested for the MacBook, how would I plug the Optical end into the MacBook? Would I need this?

Thanks, I appreciate it!

That I honestly don't know about, I use this hub thing that came with my sound card. It sits on my desk and has a mic, and I can adjust it and turn on noise cancellation. So I never had that problem. I'd say if they aren't cranked to the max your microphone shouldn't pick it up, but you need to look for a mic that has very good noise reduction. A very popular cheap mic like the Zalman clip on mic is notorious for picking up every sound in the room. I'd take a look at the ModMic, expensive but worth it. Also, the cable is not detachable from the headphones, so a mic like the V-Moda Boom Pro won't work. Oh and for consoles you're also going to need this to connect your mic.

It's a four pole plug not a 3 pole plug meaning it's meant for a mic in plus stereo out and ground I believe. You need something like THIS then you should be able to use whatever headphones and mic you want. I have senheiser hd598 and mod mic 4.0 and it works great. Though you may want THIS as well to control volume more easily.

This is probably your best bet. If you ask around with friends many video cards come with adapters like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035B4LJM?cache=714ac8d121b09609fb88ebd92d041b56&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1406621512&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

They are usually orange colored and will work well for what you are doing. You can get cheap HDMI cables on amazon for about $5 each that will also work. Don't spend $30 per cable on random marketing crap. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NJH592/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_cG11tb0295PFVVEK should do the trick.

I only have experience with 3 monitors, and my setup uses a DVI-I connection, a passive VGA to minidisplayport, and an active VGA to minidisplayport. 2 connections can be non displayport( or passive adaptors through displayport), everything else has to be either displayport or minidisplayport (or an active adapter to one of these). this page is of the AMD certified adapters. I bought these passive adapters for my one of my vga monitors, and one of these to connect connect my 3rd monitor.

I would suggest plugging in the hdmi from your tv, then buying one of the 5$ passive vga to DP or mDP adaptors, and 2 active vga to DP or mDP adaptors.

Great guide! The only thing I would add is that for people with headsets like this

http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-777-Surround-Technology/dp/B001KURYAS/
where the speakers and mic are separate, you need this type of cable:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also note that you need to plug the headset and mic into this cable FIRST before plugging it into the adapter. I'm using this setup currently and it works great!

Edit: I can't link correctly apparently.

I bought the Turtle Beach X-Ray during the Thanksgiving sale they had for $99 they were normally 200... I think they suck. Bass is no where to be heard lol. They just suck. My old Turtle Beach X1's sounded way better. My Logitech G35 blow them out of the water.

I am going to get a new headset that will work hooked into my denon receiver for those late nights when I am gaming on my HTPC, watching cable, playing Xbox etc, as well as be able to use on the new adapter for when I am gaming on Xbox and want to use chat.

On my main PC I use my Logitech G35. I will be getting a pair of Sennheisers, I had a pair at my last job and the audio quality was amazing. They were also one of the most comfortable pair of cans I have ever worn. I wore them all day at work listening to music and they were awesome.

Then I will sell my turtle beach and I will never buy another pair of turtle beach headsets.

If you do order a PC headset, I would try to find one that does not require USB... that way you don't have to have a laptop or something sitting next to you plugged in etc.

Also you should buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that way you can get chat and audio working from the adapter.

I used these: they need an adapter, but they work great with ASUS Aura. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0R3CFQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZIBJAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My setup is Steelseries Siberia v2 > startech 2x 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable > xbox headset adapter. Works perfectly for me and sound quality is great. Plus the retractable mic is a nice touch.

headset link

3.5mm adapter for mic and audio

ok, good to know!

Would this one be good?
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-006B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Single-Link/dp/B004071ZXA

Thanks again for the response!!! I know that this may have been asked in some other places

Cable management for sure. Maybe a better desk down the line, but cable management is probably the cheapest and most effective way you could improve your battlestation right now.

Especially the mouse; why is that plugged into your case front I/O and not the rear? If the cord's too short, you can get USB extension cords for about $5 in a variety of lengths such as 1 meter or 3 meter.

Hey man, I was in the exact situation as you a few years ago - I decided on getting the 6's even though it meant I could not afford a nice audio interface like the one linked above. Instead as a temporary solution, I used a 1/8" to stereo RCA output like this one. That setup never once gave me a problem (Ableton + Macbook).

Sure it was a short term hit on the audio quality until I could afford a proper interface but in five years I have never once regretted choosing the 6's over the 5's.

You should also consider other factors before choosing either speaker: size - if you're thinking of moving soon the 6's can be a hassle, and volume - I was consistently written up on noise violations living in a dorm freshman year while playing on low output levels. I'm sure there are others but it's late and beer.

Both are good speakers - everyone's situation is unique but with that cheap cable, it seems neither solution is out of reach for you OP.

edit : words

TL;DR - There are CHEAP non-audio interface solutions out there - it's worth investing in good monitors.

You can use one of these controllers and this USB adapter to play N64 games on your nexus. Just make sure you are using an emulator that allows you to map buttons. Works great. I have only tried this with one controller though. I can try it with two if anyone is interested.

It's called an OTG cable. Typed it into amazon and this is one of the first ones that popped up.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4GGW5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1421845379&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=41rZu34Yh5L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Plug that into your controller and then plug the USB part into the OTG cable and the other side into your phone/tablet. At least I think so. I don't own one personally but I'm pretty sure I've seen people recommend these before.

Not sure if this is the best method, but you could buy something like a micro USB to USB A adapter (something like this) and then just connect a normal USB mouse to your phone as an input device.

If you can then use your phone, use an app like SMS Backup and Restore to get SMS and call history off of the device.

There might be a way to get everything you need from entering recovery then connecting the phone to a computer, but I'm not entirely sure.

The problem you have with not being able to hear your friend is because the headset adapter is taking control of chat. If you only have the mic going into the adapter and you are getting audio from some place else you will not hear voice chat. The audio has to come out of the adapter as well.

I think this is what you have yes? http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/itemDetails/T777-1066/T777-1066-out04-kg.jpg

If that is the case and you are not afraid of a bunch of cables coming out of your controller here is a possible solution:

You will need the previously mentioned cable http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_u.W7tb0EYW852 you can plug the pink mic cable right into the mic end of that cable.

For the audio you need to turn your 3 other cables into a single stereo 3.5 with something like this http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0006U3ACY

in conjunction with one of these http://www.showmecables.com/product/3-5mm-Stereo-Mini-Plug-to-Dual-RCA-Plugs-6-IN.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=933&zmam=49733141&zmac=5&zmas=1&zmap=933&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgryfBRDn7cvY-pOit4cBEiQAB3nTbmJWQ7KJtba5nFTz0sX8K-fmBK5eu1LdzGdDV-EYz3oaAoz_8P8HAQ (you can find them longer)

You can even use the cable you said you already purchased so all of the cable mess doesn't have to hang directly off the controller.

Hope this helps.


Edit: you can also find this type of cable in just about any length if you need to extend the mic cable. http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-STR35-CBL6-Stereo-Extension-Female/dp/B0017T9XDI/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408228231&sr=1-7&keywords=3.5+extension+cable

Don't know of any braided but the Amazon Basics one works well for me. I've had it for exactly a year and it works well. I fold it in half then coil it around my hand to put in a drawer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay, yeah the mixer will almost assuredly be nearby the PC so 1/8" to dual RCA it is!

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33

Thanks a bunch! I clearly over-complicated the analog conversion in my head.

The PS4 controller uses a 4-pin 3.5mm connector. You can get an adapter for $6 that will break this out into a standard stereo headphone jack and a microphone jack, which will let you use a standard PC gaming headset, or separate headphones and microphone.

Here's the splitter:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/r

Then you can use literally any pair of headphones and microphone, or PC headset (non-USB). For example:
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Stereo-Headset-H150-Cloud/dp/B005DKZTNK/

Obviously some of the ultra-nice headsets like the Astros sound well, like you'd expect something that costs hundreds of dollars to sound, but you can find "middle ground" headsets that are good enough.

If you want game audio coming through the headphones, make sure to set it in the audio options on your PS4!

Nah. I never got kinect. The ideal set up is for all sound to be played through my receiver/amp + headphones with a lavaliere mic attached to the headset adapter. So far this hasn't worked on xbox one because the console forces all voice chat output through the headset adapter if it detects anything plugged in. It worked flawlessly on 360 though.

And yes, I know I can plug headphones into another adapter, but the xbox headset adapter itself doesn't output at enough strength for my headphones to sound good. This means I would need a different amp powering my headphones. Maybe I'm being petty, but voice chat with random people on xbl isn't worth it if i have to put about 18 feet of wiring between me and the controller or sacrifice sound quality and immersion.

I just use a pair of over-the-ear headphones that I really like along with a Zalman mic and it works fine. Put them together with this and pop it right into the controller like a dedicated headset. Haven't had issues yet, and I can easily swap between open-backed headphones and closed-back headphones.

I'm gonna go with this guy. Also, there's two different standards of the 3-band connector (CTIA and OMTP), so if you need to convert from CTIA to OMTP (the standard the StarTech uses according to a comment on a review from a support rep), then this is what you need. (The bad reviews on it seem to be from people using it with devices with proprietary standards that aren't within this product's realm, like game controllers, and apparently the OnePlus One smartphone)

Edit: Thanks a million for the idea to look for an adapter like that! Looks to be perfect for my needs.

You need this:
http://www.amazon.ca/Startech-MUYHSFmm-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-F/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393557799&sr=8-2&keywords=mic+3.5+mm+splitter

If you just plug it in the bands that carry the audio signal don't line up properly. And ya it definitely benefits from an amp. I am amping it from my soloist right now and I think it sounds pretty noticeably better than out of my ipod.

The headset adapter is amazing.

At least for me, using my astro headset with one 3.5mm plug for both sound and mic, it plugs right into the adapter and everything works. If you have two plugs at the end of your headset, you are gonna need one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1419697744&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I can even mute my tv, blast the volume on the adapter, and sit across the room listening to whatever game/tv I'm playing.

It has volume buttons, a mute button, and can change the volume between voice and the game sounds.

I use it constantly.

Edit: just looked up the headset, probly won't be able to use the mix amp with the xbox one unless it has an optical cable. If it does you are good just need the adapter. If not you are still good just won't get the mix amp volume controls and such.

You could use the first adaptor with this one, but it's probably best to minimize the number of points where it could fail. Honestly, I'd invest in a Zoom H1 or Tascam DR-05 (plus the standard adaptor), which are only $100, cheaper on Ebay. It's always a good idea to invest in sound.

I ordered and tested this one: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY

Just a simple 9.8 ft extension cable from Amazon and it seems to work fine with the Logitech C922 so far. No added delay, image issues, or any issues at all as of yet. It hasn't been a long period of testing of course, but right from the get-go it has worked just fine. I'll have to test it running the webcam for longer periods and see how it holds up and I can't say if it'll last long, but as of now it seems to work perfectly fine.

> Micca PB42X

ok so http://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC

and http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33/

And it will work well like that? Thank you so much for your help!

I had one of these come with a Headset, worked perfectly for this purpose in my situation: http://gamerfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/g3304.jpg

If you don't want to deal with another USB device, you'll need this sort of adapter: https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFFADW-Position-Headset-Splitter/dp/B00CPEZ4J6/ref=pd_sim_23_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVM77682PHMWK3YM4PCS

Honestly, I want to use pro audio equipment(including phantom power) so I'm currently considering buying a "real" audio interface like this: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-PHORIA-UM2-BEHRINGER/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485372037&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+audio+interface

I just ordered this beast of a case for my Zen 2 build, black ext/white int should look awesome with my ASUS X570 Prime Pro, planning to use the RGB fan frames with some Corsair ML140s.

FYI, it's kind of a cash grab by Phanteks but you need this $5 adapter to control the RGB fan frames with your mobo because they use a proprietary pinout.

Well, the G430's braided cable terminates into two three-pole 3.5mm jacks, one for the microphone, the other for the speakers. If you intend to use the headset with a computer, it comes with an adapter that takes both 3.5mm jacks and puts them into a single USB port. The drivers prefer this setup, and deliver superior sound quality this way.

If you're opting to use this headset with an Xbox, and intend to use the mic as well, you'll need two items:

1. the Microsoft stereo headset adapter so you can control chat/game volume mix and such. Otherwise, you're stuck with whatever mix you get.
   
2. a 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter to reduce your two 3.5mm jacks to a single, 4-position jack for the stereo headset adapter. (That Amazon link actually includes pictures from a guy who has my exact setup.)
   
   The setup works great. My only problems have been with the quality of StarTech adapter over time, as the sheath began to pull back from the jack head; however, it was easily corrected with electrical tape. Still using the same adapter after almost 3 years.

You can use an optical tos cable connected to an optical to RCA adapter then to an RCA to 1/8th cable and a 1/8th coupler if necessary. I do exactly this in my bedroom. Works great and the sound still comes from the tv too which is great too.

I'm new to headphones, dacs, and amps and I had a couple of questions. Can I use something like this headset adapter to combine my headphones and modmic into 1 audio cable going to this dac&amp? I'm trying to reduce the amount of cables I have to run to my computer which is in a closet in my home theater room where I play a few games, stream videos, and watch blu rays. Also, can I add a USB 3.0 hub before the dac&amp? The hub would be helpful if I want to get away from my wireless keyboard and mouse. My plan is for this to all go into an armrest space in my recliner and just have one USB cable going to my desktop about 8 feet away. I'm completely open to other ideas to accomplish this if this sounds terrible.

I built my wife a computer for Christmas and she wanted to use her beats earbuds. I found this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6

It works flawlessly! Sound comes through and voice input works as well. Obviously the volume controls on the headset don't work, but most keyboards have onboard volume control.

Edit: put up right link :) hope this helps

This is the one I have, from Amazon. It works really well for situations like this, but it isn't perfect. It has very little rigidity, so I had to resort to twisting the cable around to steer the camera. Also I wouldn't dare use any of the attachments that come with it, because I was skeptical of how securely they attach to the unit. The last thing I wanted was to have the attachment come loose and have it too fall into the oil pan.

The price seems to have gone down since I bought it a year ago. I paid $23.99 for it, It's $16.99 now. Honestly, for that price, it's a really good thing to have. I also used this USB adapter so that it would connect to my phone.

Awesome! :D So it comes with a cable, is it different than the Hosa CMR-210? Would you recommend using one over the other? Thank you so much!

That's a nice headset, your cousin is quite generous! To connect it to your computer, and be able to use both the microphone and headphone functions, you need a 4-pole TRRS to 2x 3-pole TRS splitter.

Something like this would function fine: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Audio-Video-Cables/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483813992&sr=8-3&keywords=4+pole+splitter

For your Xbox One, you can plug it into your controller if it has a 3.5mm port. Otherwise, you'd need the Stereo Headset Adaptor.

I have had that issue. This is one way you can do it: You need the stereo headset adapter (obviously), an external mic like the ModMic or a clip on mic like this one and an adapter like this one to merge the signals into one jack compatible with the Xbox One. It would be much simpler if the cable was removable lol.

I don't remember a USB cable coming with it, and I don't see it listed under "in the box" on Logitech's website. Could you point me in the direction of what type of USB cable you're talking about? Is it something like one of these?

My tower is located right underneath my mouse, so it wouldn't be a huge difference in distance, but I'm willing to try anything. Thanks for your help!

Okay... so I just need to repeat these are probably not the best options... #1 is probably the worst option and may or may not work... and I can't guarantee you will get the best sound quality out of either but here ya go:

(1) If you only have a 1/4 or 1/8 out, you can run a cable with two male connectors from the stereo to your computer's mic input. They would either be a 1/4 to 1/8 cable or a 1/8 to 1/8 cable.

(2) For RCA output, you can a RCA to 1/8 cable into the computer mic input or run a regular RCA cord with this RCA to 1/8 adapter.

None of this is ideal, but for under $10 it might be worth giving it a try and messing around with it if you have the time and patience. Hope this helps. If none of this works... sorry...

This was an excellent find. I went and even ordered myself ones. Thanks for sharing! I also included a quick link to the Amazon.com reseller link.

I have a 5870 2GB Eyefinity 6 edition, and yes, you'll need an active adaptor. I purchased this one for my third monitor, and it works perfectly.

Actually, I think you can avoid the whole "tumor" thing. Here's my idea. While this psu has no chance in hell of fitting inside the NES, you could mount both the NES and this psu to a piece of plywood or something similar. This should work, but you'll probably need a couple cables to extend the reach of the PSU. Something like this

The idea is that the psu would be tucked away behind the NES box.

You might also want a slim fan like this or this.

Awesome, thanks! My audio setup is pretty awkward, so having everything work is a bit hard.

PS4 > HDMI Audio Splitter > RCA Male to RCA Male Adapter > RCA to 3.5mm Adapter in to Sound Card on PC > Playback through PC to hear through headset.

Going to grab this one since it's Prime shipping.

Pretty much any case with cable routing behind the motherboard works fine (the picked case will work great). Get some zip ties (preferably larger ones) and for extensions, I personally use these silverstone cables:https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Extension-Motherboard-Connector-PP07-MBW/dp/B00B46XJQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473370270&sr=1-1&keywords=silverstone (note that this is a motherboadextension, they sell all kinds) I'm quite partial to the white ones, as they look great under RGB LED's.

Also, what server are you on in FFXIV? I'm a Cactaur player myself.

Hey, I have a similar setup and I purchased this to get it all synced. Works a treat and looks beautiful, you just connect it to the RGB header on your motherboard and the other to the front LED strip (assuming it's the front like mine).

Oh and don't forget to download the Asus Aura software, though be mindful if you have G Skill RGB RAM that you don't use GSkill's software. Asus Aura can control both and the Gskill one just crashes it.

Hello

I bought a separate microphone and headphone but my laptop has only one jack. but i have no idea if it works with splitter so in that case is it better to take a USB one ?

So should i take this one

https://www.amazon.ca/Startech-Com-MUYHSMFF-Muyhsmff-Splitter-Adapter-M/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521384368&sr=8-4&keywords=microphone+headphone+splitter

Or this one

https://www.amazon.ca/aceyoon-Headphone-Microphone-External-Converter/dp/B078S19G5V/ref=pd_ybh_a_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WKN8PT8Y52ZSAB936ZC1

And with the USB And can i use the microphone only in the usb and put the headphones in the normal jack ?

should i take the usb to be sure it works ? how about the quality

ty

Yeah the repeater is so cheap it is worth it to add it just to have it. Another possible solution is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035B4LJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because we are finding out the HDMI signal is weaker than the DVI and Display ports on a lot of graphics cards.

But like I said the repeater has made my extremely long cables work well I have consistently played for 2 hours now with no issues of any kind. Before the repeater the cable I linked to just didn't work at all... I had a black screen and my other cable I bought would work for a while then would drop the signal momentarily and come back on.

Personally I ordered all three of the options I presented and plan to test them all. Currently I am using what I presented to you first and want to use it for at least a couple days or until I have an issue if I find an issue I will move on to the next option and rinse and repeat. But as of now I am very confident the repeater is the way to go.

I have a mixer for my setup, though I have an xbone.

1. Yes you will definitely be able to control 2 inputs.
   
   
2. This is a little more complicated. You have to use an adapter like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411316777&sr=1-3&keywords=microphone+splitter+adapter) one connected to your controller and then plug those into your mixer. The microphone connection should be connected to an aux send on the mixer with whatever microphone you want to use connected to it. The headphone connection will be connected to a stereo channel on the mixer in the same way as your PC. I'm not sure exactly how ps4 controllers work but you may want to buy a separate wired controller just to connect to the mixer.
   
   If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Your problem is that in order to run 3 monitors with an AMD HD6000 series card anything more than 2 must be run off a display port. you can get an active(?) display port adapter to enable the 3rd monitor. This is because the internal hardware supports 2 DVI links, usually 1 is shared with the HDMI, and I assume your other is on an DVI -> VGA converter. I didn't hunt for the best deal on that adapter, look for good reviews from people that are running 3 monitors.

Invest 30 bucks in this, not super loud but its good enough and its a third the price of the cheapest sena headset

Reciever Audio Only $16

Speakers $14

This is my setup and I love it only downside is no microphone but I usually ride alone so it doesn't matter to me

Edit: so I recently ordered these

Receiver Mic and Audio $20

Mic $5

Adapter $6

I'm trying to come up with a bluetooth calling set up if anyone is interested I can make a diy on how I put all this together, I will also report the quality of the new parts at a later date

• If you use the free trial of PSN, remember that it is a subscription and you need to manually unsubscribe otherwise it will auto-renew at the most expensive price.
  
• In the Chat Party settings there is a slider to adjust the game sound to chat volume balance.
  
• As the controller has a handy jack plug on it, you can use a 4 pole splitter and a lapel mic and plug in some nice headphones to get set up for chat without breaking the bank.

omg a topic i know something about.

• The big difference between them are openback One vs closed back zero. If you want to be able to hear the world around you or perhaps have sound through the tv/speakers while being able to hear just your friends in the headset then choose One. If you want to isolate yourself from your potentially noisy house choose Zero.
  
  
• Open back headphones are great in quiet rooms because the soundstage is bigger, idk how to explain this you just have to try openback and close your eyes one day to know what i mean. Closedback headphones dont leak bass, so if you like that rumble when you fire a rocket launcher then stick to closed back.
  
  
• For those saying to get a 598 with vmoda boom pro. I'm not saying don't, but heres my experience. I have a PC320 which is basically an older Game One. I love it but I wanted more, so I did the whole 598 with vmoda boom pro. I find the auto mute on mic lift way easier and way more intuitive then finding the knot in the wire every time, same goes for the volume. It should also be mentioned that you need a tiny little adapter to fit a vmoda boom pro into the HD598. Problem is from all my searching theres really only one item that fits. While many people sell this same item the quality control is terrible. I've gone through 8 adapters so far and all 8 start cutting out and causing problems after a week of use. I bought what is bassically same item from 3 different people. all terrible. Idk maybe the people using 598+vmoda boom pro are just really lucky , but for me its just not worth it even when it works and I've gone back to my PC 320 for gaming. I still use and LOVE my 598 for music, but the difference between the 320 and the 598 for GAMING purposes imo is less then noticeable. Now, if your gonna go 598 with desktop mic or a headphone that doesnt require an adapter then thats a whole different story.
  
  Lastly If you decide to buy game one or zero, some advice from a PC320 user. Idk how much the mic tech has changed but with a fan pointed in your direction even on low, its not fun for others. buy This and life is good again. One really weird thing. I used my PC320 for my ps4 for a time and I noticed something strange. If I used a Y-adapter and plugged it into my DS4 controller the mute part didnt work even when I lift the mic. BUT if I used a USB adapter and plugged it straight into my PS4 then the mute works. Still no idea why this is.
  
  Edit: If you use the 598+vmoda boom pro combo and your adapter doesnt look like this, where did you get it from? link please?
  
  edit: changed all the instances i could find of me accidentally saying modmic when i meant vmoda boompro

The Xbox stereo headset works with PS4, I used it with my PS4 in parties with friends and they hear me fine. Just have to go Adjust devices to send all sounds through the headset.

I also use a razer kraken pro (and several other headphones) with a lapel mic connected to through a 3.5 mm headphone/mic splitter like this. This set up also works for both.

I also have the PS Silver headset, I haven't tried the mic on it on a xbox one stereo adapter tho.

If you look closely at the plug you'll notice there are 4 separate metal contacts (TRRS) instead of 3 (TRS) see this image

That extra contact is for the microphone, smartphones can utilize this as standard, letting you make hands-free calls, but will need an adapter cable to work on separate headphone and mic jacks on a PC (like this)

As for the xbox, depending on which you have there adapters for those too, this for xbox one controllers and a combo of this and this for an xbox 360 controller

As for whether you'd be better off with separate headphone and mic, absolutely, of course you would be, I can't imagine polaroid branded headphones sounding any good at all, yes they are indeed usable for all your intended applications with the adapters I linked but sound quality will be poor, especially mic quality from the tiny thing built into the cable. If that bothers you in any way, then head over to the sticky thread for advice on what to get instead, otherwise those adapters should work fine, even if they come in at just as much, if not more than the headphones cost themselves.

That definitely will work! Just make sure it a male TRRS jack to a 3.5 mm female mic jack and a 3.5 mm female stereo output jack. If you are in the States, just order either of these 2 splitters from Amazon.

1. https://www.amazon.com/Headset-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1536526951&sr
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/HTTX-Splitter-Headphones-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01HAVSPOY/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1536527326&sr=1-2.
   
   I have the second one myself and use it with my ModMic 5 and Sennheiser headphones with my Xbox One (also mobile Android, PC, and PS4 compatible).
   
   The other option is you get a Vmoda BoomPro Mic instead of the ModMic. It would be an inexpensive 1 cable mic solution compatible with your headphones, but then you would have to return your ModMic. They both sound good (I own both) but I have to use the more expensive ModMic in my case because of the sound leakage of my Sennheisers.

Wireless:
The microphone is mediocre, but it gets the job done. The sound they produce is good and they fold up.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z8PWGNG/

Wired:
Studio monitor headphones will give you the most true sound. They also have replacement parts available, as companies buy them by the fleet. You will need a adhesive mic and some wired adapters.

Monitors
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AJIF4E/

Mic
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R98JVVU/

Edit: Adapter
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/

Any luck with this at all? Im in the same boat. I do know you get a 3.5mm spliter with a female end that will put out into a mic and headset cable, would this maybe work if attached from the headset?

EDIT- one of these. this might well be the solution im hoping!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-3-5mm-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-Black/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=pd_sim_63_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31WQufvb-jL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0K514RQXGW79AJ77FZFY

what you need is an active mini displayport to xxx adaptor. yes, it has to be active as a passive adapter will use up an HDMI/DVI channel and it wont work

Example: http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-006B-DisplayPort-Single-Link-Certified/dp/B004071ZXA/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373640297&sr=1-6&keywords=active+displayport

You would still need to do this even if you get a second card and xfire. when xfireing all monitors need to be plugged into the same GPU if you are using eyefinity if i remember correctly

Just as Streichholzschachtel said you would need active DisplayPort adapter.

Just a few hours ago, I replied the following on a similar thread, which could help you pick adapter if you decides to get one:

A while back, on a multi-monitor setup, I've used this HIS Mini-DisplayPort to DVI Adapter AMD Eyefinity-ready and it worked flawlessly right out of the box(at first i tried this Accell B087B-006B UltraAV Mini DisplayPort to DVI-D Single-Link Active Adapter ATI Certified, which did not work, even though it was ATI certified).

What kind of laptop are you using? I saw your other reply about the iPhone earbuds as well. Did you plug that into the line in jack or the headphone jack?

As for the adapter, this could work, but if you're trying to go with USB this would work best.

No matter what you choose a headset is going to require multiple wires. For mic quality no gaming headset is going to give you good quality (and they'll give you even worse sound quality). This setup is around the same as the Astros with their mixamp and is infinitely better quality in both sound and mic along with comfort.

• Sennheiser HD 558 Headphones
  
  
• ModMic (version 4.0)
  
  
• Turtle Beach DSS2 Mixer
  
  
• Xbox One Stereo Headset Adapter
  
  
• Headset Adapter
  
  If money is no option you could also get the AKG 701's which are amazing headphones.
  
  Also here's a little quality comparison with the mod mic to other headsets.
  
  People who say Astros are good don't know what good headphones actually sound like.

Powerlink is $19.99 with free prime shipping on Amazon. What's the best you can do on it?

So this Anker USB-C -> HDMI adapter advertises 60hz 4k. My new MBP arrives on Friday so I'll get back about the actuality of that, but I'd be interested to hear your experience. Otherwise my main 4k panel has displayport and I got a USB-C -> MDP as well, so should be fine.

For HDMI I have one of these and it's great: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK

For USB 3, I already owned a hub/ethernet dongle combo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00PC0J1VC

To make it work with USB-C I bought a USB A -> USB C converter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01COOQIKU

All of these work fine and are considerably cheaper than the Apple alternatives. Anker seem to be a good company when it comes to dongles.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/180-6740495-5194532?ref_=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_0UOetb1ECR7K7

This is the adapter I have. You wanna make sure the adapter will support mic and audio joy just audio

Well, I suggest the XRGB Framemesiter. However since you called the 28.99 pound adapter expensive the XRGB is probably a tad much at 258 pounds.

However if you really want the best way to connect old gaming machines to a modern television you can't go wrong with it. http://www.amazon.com/DP3913515-Framemeister-Micomsoft-Upscaler-Import/dp/B006H39XJS

I tried this with no success.

you'll probably have to get something like this.

If you try it, message me if it works, yeah?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006H39XJS

This is the Framemeister. It will upscale your standard definition signal and optimize it to connect through HDMI. It also can add scan lines that CRT TVs had. It's expensive, but I've heard and seen great things about it. I don't know of anything else that does what you're looking for other than using an emulator that can upscale the rom.

Yes, but you will need something like this to connect them both to the DS4:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CPEZ4J6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or something like this to connect them to the PS4 directly:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014ANW4VU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well since there probably aren't any surround drivers for my headset anyway it looks like I'll be using something like this and use my regular speakers.

Edit: I'll have to use something like you probably, don't think the FireTV supports the kind of plug I posted a link to :/

For the most part yes, the GPU takes over all the display functions for the computer (Though depending on your motherboard, you can also use the integrated graphics alongside your GPU).

If your GPU had more than one HDMI connector, then you can use another HDMI display, however if your GPU has a free DVI-D port, then you can just get an adapter and you can hook up another monitor easily.

Here is a list from AMD single active link active and dual link active sections of the list should be fine, anything that's not passive. Direct link to an adapter taken from AMDs list.

I can't find, nor begin to imagine what your adaptor would look like (I do understand you though).

The best help I can give you is try a USB-3.5mm and then a mic+audio to 3.5mm. (eg. here and here)

It will be a klunky dongle mess but hey still better than the new MacBook's experience

wii mote pairing was broken in android 4.2 because "security", apparently kitkat fixed some Bluetooth support, but I haven't tried anything first hand myself.

But there are workarounds, this guy gets a USB OTG adapter, and plugs in an external bluetooth dongle to get it to work.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2381953

It might be more hassle than it's worth, I'd suggest buying an OTG adapter and an a wired usb controller, I use a wired 360 controller just fine

EDIT: apparently the USB 360 wireless receiver also works through OTG, so you could use a wireless 360 controller.

The Steelseries Flux In-Ear uses a 4-poll 3.5mm connector to transfer mic two audio channels and ground
(from root to tip; mic -> audio chanel -> audiochannel -> ground)
all in one connector to ensure compatibility with mobile devices which commonly use this type of connector.

The audio connectors on your pc are female 3-poll 3.5mm connectors.
(audio channel -> audio channel -> ground)

The male 4-poll 3.5mm connector will fit in the female 3-poll 3.5mm connector the but the the mic will not be supported.

I do not know what this steelseries audio adaptor is but for the mic in your headset to be supported by your pc you need a 3.5mm 4-Poll to 2x3 -Poll 3.5mm connector splitter cable like this, this separates the mic channel in the 4-poll connector into another 3-poll connector.

Edit: looked up the steelseries audio adaptor, this is the opposite of what you want it combines two 3-poll 3.5mm connectors into one 4-poll 3.5mm connector.

Yes, pretty much every 3.5mm to Haedset & Microphone adaptor will do the trick.

Example

I use on of these sometimes when I'm streaming so that I can use a better mic.

Actually it didn't, that was an amazon special.

Here you go: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the GPU one as well, in case you were interested: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It looks like a standard PC headset, which means it is not compatible out of the box, but you can use it with an Xbox One if you don't mind buying a few more things.

The first thing you'll need is the Xbox One Stereo Headset Adapter. This attaches to your controller.

Your headset has two 3.5mm plugs: one for stereo sound (green plug) and one for the microphone (pink plug). The Stereo Headset Adapter has an input for a special kind of 3.5mm plug which can transmit stereo sound and microphone sound at the same time. So you need to buy an adapter cable like this one which will convert your two 3.5mm plugs into a single plug carrying both stereo and microphone sound.

With those two things, you would attach the headset adapter to the controller, plug your green and pink plugs from your headset into the adapter cable, and finally plug the single end of the adapter cable into the headset adapter. You'll be able to hear game sound through your headset and use the microphone to chat over Xbox Live.

I guess it's a common issue for creative sound cards to combine some channels on 4 pin audio cables. Despite this, I've yet to find a 3-to-4 cable anywhere online. I may try a couple of mic/headphone splitters and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

Hello! I am looking to purchase some equipment to improve the sound quality from my iPhone while recording my piano pieces, nothing major just as a hobby. I am quite confused with the different type of setups available and would love to receive some advice. Here is the setup I have planned:

iPhone -> Headset-Microphone 3.5mm splitter -> Neewer NW-700 Condenser Microphone

However, I understand that I have to provide power to the Neewer microphone for it to function well (and not drain the iPhone's battery). What would be the cheapest way to go around doing that?

Your iMac may support optical audio supporting 5.1. Which iMac do you have?

If so, the optical jack is combined with the 3.5mm stereo analog line level / headphone jack. To use this you'll need an an 3.5mm mini optical to toslink adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002MQGRM?pc_redir=1396793440&robot_redir=1. Then you'd need an optical cable and a 5.1 system with optical input.

Ah okay, good to know the impedance is fine.

For the adapater, you mean one like this? :
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=569136327&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00NIGLAAW&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=12K8W3MZZY1S5K4SY1EG

well if you dont want to make custom cables or cut and solder the original one, the easiest way would be buying a 3.5mm male to 2 rca males cable, and then a 2 rca female to 3.5mm male adapter / cable and swap the rca cables.

EDIT: Those cables will give you the fix for whatever you want to connect to it. But if you want to only connect a windows PC to it, you can use voicemeeter, or voicemeeter banana, its a virtual mixer and it can swap the L+R signals in the output, there is a button that says mono, click it 2 times and the icon should change to lines swapped, then just leave it like that

They make 1/4 to 3.5mm adapters. Not always easy to find locally, but available at Amazon. Most advise getting the ones made like the Grado adapter, with a short wire. I have a less expensive one, made by Hosa, and it works fine.

Your incoming Magni 3 has a 1/4" port, so it should be fine without an adapter.

~~You could probably use something like this with one of these and one of these. I just grabbed the first search results so better prices could be found easily.
edit* you'd also need to find a female to female 3.5mm connector as well.... you might be better off finding a jack and having someone solder the connections. (this plus this and this)~~

or you could just get one of these

So I'd pull the VGA cable that's plugged into the serial connector, and plug it into a Displayport connector as you'd probably get better results.


All you'd need is a Displayport to VGA adapter.


https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Adapter-Plated-Converter/dp/B00Z08TZNU/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_2/140-9168007-1535830


You could also potentially look into getting a dedicated GPU like a GT 1030 or GTX 1650 if you wanted to see improved gaming performance. From your specs you have a Core i7-6700 CPU which is still pretty powerful, but limited by the integrated graphics.

Okay what you could do is use a headphone mic splitter like this (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882570&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+mic+splitter)
Then put the headphones into the amp and the mic into an extender that goes to the mic input on the PC if you're using USB for your amp or if you're using aux for your amp you can plug both your amp and mic into a headphone mic adapter like this (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882834&sr=8-6&keywords=headphone+microphone+adapter) that will temporally separate the headphone and mic and plug only the headphones into the amp. I may be misinterpreting what you want to do but I hope this helps

I don't think you will find what you are looking for. The Cisco console cable has an adapter built into the cable. You cannot just connect the wires from USB directly to an Ethernet cable and have it work. You will have to have an Ethernet adapter. Why not just take something like this and plug an ethernet cable into it and then put heat shrink tubing over the connector. I think that is the closest thing you will find. If you are looking to extend your USB connection over cat5 you will require an adapter for that as well. You could use this and a USB OTG adapter.

If you could give more information on your "specific reasons" that you don't want to use adapters maybe it would help with suggestions that would meet your needs.

with basic things like this, brands don't tend to really matter at all as long as it has decent strain relief and doesn't immediately fall apart. something like this is fine

Why are you adding a LAN card? The motherboard has dual gigabit NICs (on-board LAN).

Amazon, Newegg. I.e.

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-006B-DisplayPort-Single-Link-Certified/dp/B004071ZXA

> So this should work no problem?

Personally I've never run that many monitors, but the board itself supports quad-SLI/CrossFire and the cards support 6 monitors each, you won't be running the cards in CrossFire though. Theoretically it should work.

The cards themselves come with two Mini-DP to DVI Passive Adapters that may work for a couple monitors per card, which means you might only need 16 mini-DP to DVI adapters.

Thanks for the replies. I called radioshack and they couldn't seem to tell me for sure. Also, I didn't mention before but my tablet is micro hdmi out, so I instead just (like minutes ago) ordered this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035B4LJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

As I already have the micro to full hdmi cable from using my previous converter.

I do appreciate the replies

Edit - I would think digital to digital should work both ways, but since they couldn't tell me, I won't buy their wicked overpriced adapter

Sounds like you can pick up a 2 in one converter likely your laptops has a combined port much like what smartphone use.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

You can also get a USB headset which will take care of this as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

I use this to connect my Siberia v2 headset to the chat adapter and it works perfectly :)