(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive lighting parts & accessories

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

I can’t help with headlights info, but I have a 2015 3 and did the LED Interior, reverse, license plate and parking lights upgrade. Really pretty easy and much better light all around. I used these and they all are still working great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHVND32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DE7UC6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NPIYDWU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also bought this toolkit for removing interior the light covers and panels:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUC8LTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s not hard to do and there are very good videos on youtube to guide you, like this one:

https://youtu.be/Hdm9wUFgl18

I am currently looking at these for the turn signals too:

https://www.amazon.com/SiriusLED-resistor-Extremely-Upgrade-Version/dp/B0774HQC8Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8#customerReviews


Good luck!

1. Yes you can. Make sure you get a 120 volt switch. Your common options are a 12 volt switch, 24 volt switch or 120 volt switch. Since you're panels will be operating around 60 volts, you just use the next one up, which is 120 volts.
   
   
2. Grounding one is fine.
   
   
3. I don't see a question 3....
   
   
4. This one is a judgement call, and maybe someone with more battery knowledge can chime in. When completely dead, the battery will take as much current as the alternator will supply to charge. As it gets more charged the current will drop significantly until at some point it's completely full and drawing very little current. I've seen batteries before in flatbed trailers used for winches that charge on the 7 pin trailer plug with 12 gauge wire. That wire gets very hot when the battery is completely dead, but I've never seen one catch fire or melt either. Since it's not running 150 amps constantly, you get to be the judge on how thick this wire needs to be. It doesn't need to be 00, but I personally wouldn't go smaller than 8 awg. The online wire calculations assume maximum current "continuous load", which means at least 3 hours of maximum current, that's where the 00 gauge comes from, supporting 3 hours at 150 amps. If you ran 150 amps to your batteries for 3 hours, they would explode. I've yet to find a simple wire calculator that does peak loads followed by lower loads, so that's where judgment comes in. A slow blow 50 amp fuse would probably be enough protection there since the amount of time you'll be drawing more than that will be short before the amps taper off. I believe the isolator in my van is all wired with 6 or 8 gauge wire from the factory.
   
   
5. Order doesn't matter.
   
   
6. https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/receptacle-outlet-wiring-diagrams.html
   
   The other option is to just plug in a power strip if you don't need permanent installed outlets. If you are going to permanently install the outlets the wiring should be SJO cable to circuit breaker, circuit breaker to all outlets.
   
   https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/20-amp-gfci-stand-alone-circuit-breaker/
   
   7.https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B07CP987BN/
   
   T-taps and some spade connectors would be the easiest way, otherwise it'll be a lot of cutting and soldering. If you go with t taps you can mix the colors of the connectors. It'll likely be a yellow tap on the 12 gauge trunk line, and the LED positive will get a red spade connector to plug into the yellow tap. The spades themselves are all the same size, so use the right color connector for each individual wire.
   
   
   
   Other comments: the wires coming from the charge controller to batteries only needs to support 40 amps. They can be 8 gauge and fused at 40 amps, not 150. Your wire from battery to fuse block can be 8 gauge as well. I only see 25 amps of accessories in the block, and you'll likely never run all of them at once. So an 8 gauge supply and ground line with a 40 or 50 amp inline fuse will give you plenty of room to add more accessories later while being safe.
   
   Edit: make sure you buy twisted strand copper wiring and not aluminum clad or solid core. Best spot for the thicker wiring is car audio stores or search amazon for stereo amp installation kits. If you go to home Depot for 0 gauge wire it'll be rigid and hard to work with, the car stereo wiring is super flexible.
   
   Edit 2: you may want to consider adding a battery management system after the isolator. They make many variations, some that include the isolator function as well. Some allow you to program a maximum current for charging the lifepo4, which will make it easier to judge wire size for that run. The big benefit though is that a standard car alternator will only charge lithium batteries about 75% because it's regulated to about 14.2 volts. That's what the lead acid battery expects for charging. The lithium needs 14.7 or more to charge fully. So adding the bms will allow the lithiums to fully charge while driving, otherwise you'll have to rely on the solar for the last 25% of the charge. Just make sure to program the charge controller for lithium batteries.

Here are some that I ordered from:

JST Performance - Cobb Accessport, Custom Tune, Turbosmart blow off valve, NGK 1 step colder spark plugs

James Barone Racing - Weighted short shift plate, Aluminum shift cable bracket bushings, Symposer delete, Green Air Filter (because they sell the gray one)

Depo Racing - 3.5" intercooler, catless downpipe, intercooler pipe kit

Boomba Racing - shifter base bushings, short shift lever

Tire Rack, Discount Tire Direct - wheels and tires. Both offer great deals but I go with Tire Rack because they include an amazing road hazard warranty for free with every tire you buy.

Tasca Parts - OEM Ford parts. Some good options: RS airbox lid, RS Shifter, RS engine cover, RS intake pipes

Amazon - ZL1 Rock Guards (tiny but very effective mud flaps), CravenSpeed stubby antenna, 3D (Mugen) style Window rain visors, Philips H11 Xtreme Vision headlight bulbs (same color as stock but 100% brighter), Stainless T-clamps for your intercooler, Motul Multi DCTF transmission fluid, and TONS of Meguiars car care products.

Walmart - best price for Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic engine oil, often have coupons for it too.

> Please be smarter then to think people in cars with the radio on can hear a wimpy little motorcycle horn.

I don't have a wimpy horn on my motorcycle. If your concern is your safety, then install a larger horn if yours doesn't come with one. They are so stupid cheap, you can get a very loud dual-tone horn for like <$90. It's certainly much safer than trying to use your engine -- the thing that you're also using to keep away from said driver -- to alert them audibly. You have to stop whatever it was you were doing to pull your clutch, rev up, rev back down to riding RPMs, re-engage clutch, and then continue to maneuver away from them.

Plus, honestly, most of the time, you are much safer just moving away when somebody tries to come into your lane. Honk first yes, but if that doesn't instantly resolve the problem, take your exit strategy (you do have an exit strategy, right? That's defensive riding 101)

> Im not saying the whole city should be abkw to hear you but at 6000rpms the cars around me sure as fuck should.

And I'm saying that the people that can hear you can already see you -- because you are in front of them. The majority of the time you aren't making enough noise to make people in front of you hear you, and if you are, it's because you're coming up on them quickly. And there's nothing more dangerous than being an erratic rider around traffic.

Just admit that this has nothing to do with safety and let's move on with our lives. You're certainly free to have a loud exhaust, when I was a kid I liked having a loud stereo. But I didn't go around telling people it was for safety.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/85114-400Hz-500Hz-112db-Sports/dp/B004FXMGLY/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1538105702&sr=8-17&keywords=motorcycle+horn

This, some wire, a crimp tool and some spade connectors is all you need to upgrade the horn on your bike. It'll be just as effective at alerting other drivers and you don't have to go around making up excuses for why you wanted to get a nifty loud exhaust

I have the smaller k40 and the first upgrade I did was printing an exhaust adapter and getting a new extraction fan since I didn't feel like potentially burning my house down with the included fan. I had to fix the wiring out of the box since the fan wiring is crap and would have definitely caught fire at some point after firing it up.
I went with a 440 cfm 6" fan from amazon. The adapter I printed for the back of the k40 was a 4" so I also got 24-6" adapters from amazon to connect it to the fan and then from the fan to the window. I used it on both sides since I had already bought a good length of 4" hose and didn't want to also buy 6" as well. I put weather stripping on all connections in the exhaust line so I have virtually no smell in my office when running it.

I got an air pump on Amazon and3D printed an adapter I got from Thingiverse for it to direct the airflow in line with the laser. I bought my tubing for the air assist at Home Depot.
I also added a drag chain to keep the hose out of the way. I bought mine on Amazon but you can print that and adapters yourself if you're up for it.

The next upgrade I did was to add the mA meter since I have a digital panel on mine. That gives a much more accurate read on the power when using the laser.
I then upgraded my control board to the Cohesion 3D Laserboard ($200)and started using Lightburn ($40) for the software. That software lets you do a LOT more with the machine and you can also add a camera to get a view of the print area in the software to help with laying out materials.

Because the new board has power management built-in I set the k40 to the max power I would want to use on a project and then control the power levels from the software. This also lets you do true grayscale images and 3D engravings.
Because I don't like to have the exhaust and air pump running all the time I also got some wifi smart plugs. Each plug has two outlets and each of those can be controlled individually. They can also be controlled by an echo so I have that setup as well. Since you can also group smart plugs in the Alexa app I have one set up for everything and when I'm done working on a project I can either tell my echo to shut off power to the group or hit the button in the app to shut it all off at once.

For water cooling I'm using a home depot bucket however I have hose couplers installed in the lid for the water lines so if I want to move things around I don't have to completely disconnect everything and pull the pump out of the water. I just pull the hoses off the top of the lid and the pump stays in the bucket. I have the plug for the pump also going through the lid with a rubber seal around it. Depending on how hot it gets in the workspace a water chiller might be recommended.

The latest item I bought is a lab jack which I'm going to use to make a manual adjustable bed. If you can make one yourself or buy one at an affordable price an automatic Z bed would be great if you want to work on larger materials. A manual adjusting bed is fine for me now though.
I still need to purchase a new bed for it and get rid of the crap that came with it. I might try to salvage it though by drilling holes in it and installing metal spikes to rais the material up off the surface.

On my list of to-dos is to get a better lens and upgrade the mirrors. I haven't had an issue with what I have now so it hasn't been a priority.

I hope this helps with your project.

Congratulations on getting an ND. If you are getting one with a manual transmission don't look at anything other than the Club or Club Brembo trim levels, as those are the only ones that come with a limited slip differential.

​

If you are going to be buying a used ND, be sure to read over the threads pertaining to roof and transmission issues on the early model cars. The TSB's put out by Mazda also give good guidelines as to what to look for. You should be okay buying a early year used car as long as you look over the known wear points on the roof and check the build date on the transmission.

​

The following is a good basic list of items that any ND owner could install that would be enjoyable upgrades as stand alone upgrades or as a starting point for further modifications dependent on intended use.

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3M Invisible Bra for the front bumper. Can't stress this enough, this car eats rocks to the face like crazy...

Stubby Antenna, stock one looks like a RC car antenna

Interior dome light and trunk light LEDs

Reverse light LEDs

Side marker and license plate light LEDs

Wheel Spacers if you intend to keep the stock wheels, Stock wheels are very sunk into the wheel well and look strange from the factory.

Sway bars, the stock bars are very thin and allow LOTS of body roll. Of all the parts that I listed, only the front sway bar has a high degree of difficulty to install assuming you have basic mechanical skills.

​

Stock exhaust is very anemic, recommend some muffler choices based on if you are looking for a more refined but quiet exhaust or something louder and more exotic. Don't bother with midpipe unless you are looking at headers as well. Cold air intakes for the ND have been proven to do absolutely nothing via dyno testing.

​

HKS Legamax Premium. More on the quiet side, gets louder with a great refined sound as it breaks in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-XdBGS1nwI

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Roadster Sport Race. Loudest exhaust but still okay to daily drive. Has an exotic sound.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvK18FsWilE

​

Also, I Just had the Innovated Dynamics spoiler in your picture delivered. FYI, Jose the guy that makes these is known for long delays and not answering emails /phone calls. If you order one of these spoilers don't expect to see it for 4 to 6 weeks. I'll post up some pictures once it is painted and mounted.

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I have more upgrades done to my 16' Jet Black Mica ND with more planned for the future. DM me if you want to see pictures of my car on IG or if you would like an additional opinion on parts I have not covered in this post.

Pyrometer

Low profile jack stands (flat feet, safe for tarmac)

Racing gloves

RaceQuip Helmet Support

A GoPro off-brand accessory kit To help mounting that GoPro to whatever you want to mount it to.

Some Mechanix gloves lots of options

Paint markers various colors.

F4 self-sealing silicone tape

Going Faster
Speed Secrets
High-Performance Handling for Street or Track

Another few things would be to find out what the driver uses for brake pads, brake fluid, rotors, oil filter, etc., as those can be pricey and nice gifts. (I use Hawk DTC-60 front, HP+ rear pads, Motul RBF-600 fluid)

Portable battery powered air pump for tires I have one very similar to this. It's cheap and great to use for adjusting pressures before sessions.

A decent tire pressure gauge This is the one I have and have used for several years and I have been very happy with it.

A subscription to Grassroots Motorsports

Torque wrench, +200 ft/lbs This is the one I have been using for a few years and it works well.

I've got lots of other ideas for tools and such; specific socket sets, impact gun & sockets, special bits for your car, magnet, flash lights/head lamp/stick light, channel locks, stubby sockets, various wrenches, extensions, breaker bar, bits, allen wrenches, vice grips, pry bars, adapters, pliers, cutters, etc that would be good to put on your list if you don't have them in your kit.

Happy holidays!

I got the mini k40 (would not do that again). It works great, but I didn't know it at the time that I would be getting a weaker laser. I was about a week too late learning about tube sizes being the better way to know the true wattage.

I have done a series of upgrades and then re-dos. So hopefully you can learn a few things from all my tinkering.

Analog Milliamp Meter

I bought this meter. I followed this link for the install.

Exhaust

I initially went with an inline 3" bilge pump that had a corresponding 3d printed exhaust mount. It was ok, but in the end I just wasn't good enough when I started cutting more leather/wood.

So I went a little overboard, but I am glad I did. I went with this blower instead. I made my own 3D printed mount for it. I printed 2 adapters for the blower to fit 4" ducting and then routed it up and outside my garage.

I also removed the small internal duct thing prior to installing the new exhaust. it gives me a little more cutting room as well.


Air Assist

I went with the Light to Object head and bought a new lens to fit it.


Drag Chain

I bought a 10x10 drag chain off amazon. I had originally printed one, it was ok, but I recently switched up the mounting of the drag chain to run along the X gantry which gave me a little more room to cut.


Laser Aim Assist

I made a mash of 2 different thingverse designs to hold 2 red line lasers and where they intersect is my laser beam. It works well, I made it this way originally when I had an adjustable table. Honestly, now I should switch back to a single red dot, but I am too lazy. The two lines will sometimes move on me so I end up having to do a test fire every so often to ensure they are lined up properly.


Spring Loaded Adjustable Bed

I followed this guide


Hopefully this helps you out a bit.

Thanks! It was definitely a goal of mine to have all the wiring as tidy as possible. I suppose that's why the setup still doesn't work :). I could just toss some relays and inline fuses under the hood and be done with it, but I'd rather build a housing for that stuff. I'm hoping to find a water resistant plastic box that's big enough for at least 8 fuses and 7 relays. I'd use something like this perhaps for the positives, and a smaller bus for the negatives. I'd like to mount the whole contraption on top of the brake booster. I'm struggling with that right now, though, trying to source a good sized box and figuring out how to mount it.

Thinking about upgrading my car, and I'm the type of person who likes to have everything planned out in advance. Car is an '04, already has a double diagonal rollbar, harness bar, muffler, aluminum radiator, and intake. I'll be doing timing/accessory belts, water pump, and valve cover gasket/paint shortly.

Critique my build plans please. What here is unnecessary, what am I missing, what should I change, anywhere I can save money without losing quality, or anywhere I need to gain quality, even if for a higher cost?

Driveline/Related:

• Coolant Re-Route
  
• Lightweight Flywheel
  
• Braided Clutch and Brake lines
  
• Cat & Midpipe (this one is for sure happening - my car needs a new cat, and $350 + doing it myself is about the same as having a shop cut and weld a new cat in)
  
• Headers
  
• Suspension
  
• Brace
  
• Oil Cooler
  
• 15x7 Wheels
  
• 205/50R15 Tires- which looks better, the S. Drives or V720's?
  
• Clutch Kit
  
• Slave and Master Cylinder (mine look to be having slight leakage, they're cheap parts and I figure I might as well do those when I do new clutch line/pack/flywheel)
  
• Motor Mounts
  
• Hood Lift Struts (mine are done for)
  
• Trailer Hitch
  
• Horn (mine doesn't currently work)
  
  Interior/Related:
  
  
• Sparco Wheel and Horn Buttons
  
• Hub kit
  
• Seats
  
• Harnesses
  
• Soft Top Latch (passenger side doesn't stay closed)
  
• Latch Caps
  
• Top (current has one hole and is slowly wearing out)
  
  Any advice is appreciated.

All you need to get that distance is a properly mounted 102 inch steel whip with a heavy duty spring, the mount should be drilled directly into the body of the vehicle and as close to the center as possible. The closer you get to the corners the more directional your range will become (I.e. back left corner of the vehicle will send the signal further off the direction the front right is pointed) this can be a good thing for vehicles falling behind the caravan. Get the antenna as high as possible the lower and closer to the body the less output you will have you want everything you can get for this range. Any other antenna won’t provide you the results your looking for; period, point, blank. That’s the first most important step. Get a clamp down if it’s too tall.

Next use proper coax RG213 it is lossless and 50ohms this is the perfect coax for CB radio; same stuff used by military. This is also important for this range. RG 58 will have loss and could be the difference in a mile or two.

You will also need an amplifier. Just a KL203P will provide you the power to reach 10 miles it will pump out 100 watts. They are very clean using a mosfit and don’t bleed over on other channels and cheap. Also, be sure to get an amp with a preamp this boost your receive to pull fading signals in it will help insure you get the 10 mile range.

If you have done the above steps you can now buy just about any CB you want they all put out 4 watts. However, you can get them peaked and tuned to match your amp for a little extra distance a local shop can do this or online shop like Bells. However, it’s not mandatory with the above amp and you’ll still get 10 miles.

If your installing yourself you’ll need an SWR/Watt meter to ensure proper working condition and you don’t burn up your equipment. Although, you can always have a local cb shop set it up for you and install.

Lastly, you’ll need to stay on off channels when operating so if you start hearing skip or DX turn to another channel that’s quieter. Stay off 6, 11, 19, 26, 28, and 38 these are frequently used and your transmission will be hampered by that. SSB will allow even further transmissions but be sure you amp has SSB capability KL203P does. Also, keep in mind that SSB requires each radio operator to tune in the one being received this is why it fell out of favor case driving and tuning is a pain in the ass. If each vehicle has a passenger this would not be an issue though.

This setup will get you 10 miles city, county, woods, mountains, and 20 on a flat plane. Anyone who says otherwise don’t know what they are talking about. Caravans are popular among over the road truckers who use this method. Also, keep in mind that rear vehicle only needs to reach the middle vehicle as they can relay the message to the front vehicle or vice versa.

I’d get the Uniden 980 SSB as they are matched for the KL203P stock out of the box. Many people run these without the peak and tune with awesome success.


https://www.wearecb.com/102-inch-cb-whip-antenna.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA8_PfBRC3ARIsAOzJ2urlUI2xj35bZDuIbDSgTzuloWdl1YsfzPv9gfzua0izr2xQp4lJmnUaArQMEALw_wcB

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112016328205


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173658227769

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ULN610/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ISC.Bb398FYA4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B5ZAES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EUC.BbR4V1S61

The Uniden 520 is a great choice for a basic radio. I've been using one for years with excellent results. It's really hard to beat for the size/money.

Consider the K30 magnet mount antenna for an alternative in that size.
I've used both it and the Little Wil and found the K30 to perform noticeably better. It's also less expensive:

http://www.amazon.com/K40-K-30-Stainless-Magnet-Antenna/dp/B000H2W270/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417900765&sr=8-2&keywords=K30

The other commenter that suggested getting an SWR meter is also correct. These antennas all require some degree of adjustment for optimal performance. Just a basic meter will work fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Astatic-PDC1-100-Watt-Meter/dp/B004ULN610/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417900872&sr=8-1&keywords=SWR+meter

And the jumper:
http://www.amazon.com/Procomm-Coaxial-Cable-Jumper-Connectors/dp/B003DRJ738/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y

The meter and jumper is something you'll very rarely need (just when moving the setup to a different vehicle, for the most part) so if you husband has a friend into CB or HAM operation, he may be able to borrow one for a few minutes rather than buying.

Finally, you'll need some way to power the radio. The easiest way is with a lighter plug:
http://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417901045&sr=8-1&keywords=lighter+plug

Just cut the connectors off the ends of the wires and splice it with the ones on the radio.

Alternatively, you can connect to the fuse box with an Add-A-Circuit. These come in different sizes depending on the fuses in your car. You can get one of these for less than $10 at any auto parts store.

Here’s my write up on JeepForum

This is the fuse block I used

I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store

This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less

These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend

This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point

Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)

EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!

Here is the battery pack. The pack should put out 5v 3amps per USB unless I've misread, however this product and ones like it tend to convert 5v power from USB to 0.8amp max output at 12v DC, but the fan should require 1.2amp of 12v DC to run on low.

Edit: I located some testing on a similar product in a review that might be helpful:

This seems to do fairly well though I'm unclear what they think their ratings are. I connected this to a 60-watt 5V Anker 6-port USB power strip (which I have verified is better than 5% tolerance 5V at 2.8A on a single port) and began to take measurements.

Max power without total shutting down:
Input 5.08V at 1.9A
Output 10.01V at 818mA
---- Or slightly closer to 12V ----
Input 5.08V at 1.86A
Output 11.33V at 708mA

Max power stable long-term:
Input 5.03V at 1.86A
Output 11.62V at 675mA
Duration - 20 minutes stable, immediately following max-power test

This suggests that this 12V adapter will reasonably provide continuous output at 12V around 670mA with the capability to have higher surge-current but at the cost of dropping more voltage. I was very pleased with how cool it ran - only slightly warm to the touch (113F on the plastic case as measured on IR thermometer). In the event of an overload it does seem to fail gracefully and "shut down" the converter (outputting about 4.5V until reset) on severe overload then "resets" if it is unplugged for a couple minutes.

Yup, that'll work.

Benefit of replacing the cigarette lighter is you'll have the negative and positive, fused, cables right there. Super easy

With the one you linked, you'll need to wire to a 12v source and add a fuse. You'll have to find your accessory wire to tap into, so it's not powered with the key off. (unless you want 12v to it at all times, I charge my phone in my car while I'm in work, so it's nice to have that feature)

I still think going with the cigarette lighter port is the best bet.

You could always keep this in the glove box just in case

ARECORD USB A Male to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Female Converter (Max Output 12V 0.8A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J67JIOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z0jGDb11AYXP0

I got these as well and they're great. Definitely an upgrade over stock. I would highly recommend a relay upgrade. I had a random power draw issue that killed my battery after installed the lights. This kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H5JFHR0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) fixed the issue and made the lights brighter. Just had to wire power and ground to the battery.

It plugged straight in to the stock headlight plugs. Definitely recommend.

the main reason for a tire rotation is mostly due to the tread of the rear tires going out faster than the front ones (not by much) so rotate them to even out the tread wear on your tires.

On mine (3) I have found around 6-7K milage my tread wear is about 1/32 difference (7/32 front and 8/32 rear) this depends on driving habit, road conditions etc.

I always suggest a 2/32 in.+ In difference before rotating so you won't be either doing it yourself so much or taking the car in to have them do it every 6,250 miles.

One of these tread depth gauges are the cheapest and easiest way to measure your tires tread depth (minus the penny method), doesn't have to specifically be this one but it's an easy one to show.


I'd say at least have one on hand in the glove box and if you are ever curious if you need a tire rotation (outside of an up coming 2 year service visit where they can rotate for you with the maintenance plan) you won't pay it of pocket for (in my opinion) unnecessary tire rotation.

It is easily twice as bright as the factory setup. far better pattern too.

https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Ceramic/dp/B00H5JFHR0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1464810131&sr=8-9&keywords=h4+harness

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-HLA-H83140171-H4-100-80W/dp/B000COBLKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464810209&sr=8-1&keywords=h4+100w

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427811-132mm-High-Headlamp/dp/B001G72VIK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1464810364&sr=8-4&keywords=hella+h4

Order one of each and a second bulb. plug it all in and have awesome light.

OK whew! :)

I did this exact mod last summer on my new (to me) popup. I bought one of these from Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CU5HI7U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) which gave me two USB charging ports and a spare cigarette lighter for anything else I might want to pop in there in the future, as well as a cheap battery monitor to let me know that perhaps I should stop draining the battery now! :)

Assuming you have a spare spot in your fuse panel, this is a pretty straight forward mod. Just need a 1 or 1-1/4" hole saw to mount this and some wire to attach to the panel, and a compatible fuse.

Do you know what wiper motor you have? Or what year and model car it came from? From that we can get the amperage.

Voltage doesn't matter-- everything is 12 volts (DC).

Amperage does matter, but I'm guessing your wiper motor uses around 1A. The relay of the remote I linked to earlier has a rating of 5A, so you might put a 5A fuse in there. If there's a short, it will definitely go above 5A and blow the fuse (which is what you want). Here's an example of a fuse holder that would work, but there a million options.

Since you're using a 5A fuse, you could use 16 or 18 AWG wire (rated for 7 and 10A).

So far I've been talking about the circuit for the motor that passes through the relay. For the receiver's power, you could use another 5A fuse with the same wire just to be consistent, though it really is only using milli-amps.

So basically, we size the protection (the 5A fuse) above the normal operating current (1A?), and then everything else is sized to be higher than the protection (5A+).

Finally, you'll wonder how you're supposed to connect the wires together. The best option is to solder the wires together and put heat shrink around the joint. If you can't handle that, they sell crimp wire splices for that. You can buy a real crimper or just use pliers.

Great, looks like your laptop is fine with a 12v charger. Saves needing to install an inverter and makes it all pretty easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Pwr-40W-Car-Charger-Acer-Aspire-R3-471T/dp/B002TOFK2S

Plus you'll need something to plug it into.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CU5HI7U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494682546&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+charger+voltmeter&dpPl=1&dpID=41U5OvVFWjL&ref=plSrch

Plus some red and black coloured dual 1.5mm cross section copper wire (I think you guys call it AWG 16), an inline fuse (5A) and maybe a bit of wood to mount it to.

So measure the length of wire you'd need to go from battery, through the dash, around whatever fittings, all the way to wherever you want your charging point mounted. If it is over 6 meters (about 20 foot) then get AWG 14 instead of 16.

Damn it, ended up typing after all...

I use this LED light:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WVJR0D8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works very well and it’s super bright. If you do change out your bulb, switch the two corner running lights to LED as well. I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installation was a breeze. You can find install videos on YouTube.

If you want to spend a bit more money, tire pyrometer. Something like this one that actually penetrates the rubber. The laser ones are useless for tires: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JVFTTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wQD2Db3KQ5FAG

Also, biggest tote he can fit in his car/trunk with tires and other gear. Makes it nice and easy to have an autox pack to just toss in the car and go and easy to store stuff in at the events.

Definitely, you just need to convert the 12v into a trickle charge. There are many ways to do this, some more efficient than others. There might be a AA charger that runs off of 12v, might have a cig lighter input and be in automotive sections. Let me look on Amazon and stuff.

​

• Here, this will do you just fine. does your solar have bare wire leads, or is it USB only? If you have wire leads, just cut the cig lighter off, and connect the positive and negative together and you're good to go
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B07BFWHD7G/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=12v+AA+charger&qid=1565030427&s=gateway&sr=8-5
  
  ​
  
  more edit: here, all this should be whatever you're looking for-
  
  https://www.amazon.com/ARECORD-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Converter/dp/B01J67JIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=cigarette+lighter+socket+to+usb&qid=1565030691&s=gateway&sr=8-1
  
  ​
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Cigarette-Terminal-Accessory-Inflator/dp/B07CQMQL9L/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=cigarette+lighter+socket+to+wire&qid=1565030768&s=gateway&sr=8-7

It’s this one.

I’m thinking about picking one up soon. Seems like a great deal and will help simplify installation of several amps/dsp.

These work pretty well in my stock housings. I have (h4 version ) installed in three bikes. OPT7 Motorcycle LED Headlight Kit w/ Arc-Beam Bulb - H4 9003 - 6000K Cool White - 40w 3,500Lm CREE - 2 Yr Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WVJR0D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_2GGhzb9DW1R3Z

The instructions are real not clear, but the bulb separates with a twist from the mounting plate. Install the metal part, then your headlight bulb boot then insert the bulb assembly and twist to lock.
Make sure the bulb is positioned correctly with the leds pointing perfectly horizontal with the housing, otherwise you'll get a weird pattern high on one side - low on the other.

Stick to the brand names and you'll be fine. My last few sets were Goodyear Nordics - which are fairly inexpensive and they work great.

You can check out tirerack.com to compare tires. I tend to stick away from tires that have a specific left and right side tread. Other than that, check how many miles they are rated for and the user reviews.

Get a tread depth reader for a few bucks and take the time to check each tire for even wear across the tire. The Goodyear Nordics are 13/32" brand new. It's a good way to gauge the % of life left. For inspection purposes, the tires much be 2/32" minimum, which is way too little for winter.

This pryometer is single best investment I've made. Testing pressures like you did is basically trying to subjectively measure what this can directly measure. What's the best pressure to run? The one that get's the most work out of the tire. That shows up as relatively consistent temperature distribution across the surface. All changes I've made to the kart correlates in some way to tire temp.

http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-54005-Pyrometer-Adjustable/dp/B005JVFTTM/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=414eFGN%2BEtL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR144%2C160_&refRID=0CS2WBZGAA1RVH0YHQQ2

Its pretty easy to do yourself. I have a 2003 yukon xl and I did the installation myself. Yours should be the same as mine, I assume you have onstar and bose as well. If I were you I would get this headunit and this adapter. It looks difficult, but its really quite easy to install. It also keeps all your factory steering wheel controls and onstar. A little spendy, but there is nothing cooler than changing the song on Spotify with the steering wheel controls on your ten year old vehicle.

I actually just put these on my sportster last night: OPT7 Motorcycle LED Headlight Kit w/ Arc-Beam (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WVJR0D8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_6SH3wb4PP998B)

The difference is astounding. The fitment can be a little tricky but I was able to fit everything in the original housing.

Also thinking about adding a light bar underneath from (http://trackerdie.myshopify.com/products/7in-36-watt-led-light-bar) but that'll be a little later.

As for swapping the headlight bulb out I’ve used these and the beam is just the same as the halogen it replaced just whiter and a longer throw. OPT7 Fluxbeam LED Headlight Single Bulb for Motorcycle - H4 9003-6000K Cool White - 40w 3,500Lm CREE - 2 Yr Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WVJR0D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LnCMBbYDWH4TC
I’ve had no issues with people flashing me or any other issues. Two things are important. 1. This bulb comes apart to install it, this is not immediately evident, but a close inspection will show the bulb at two parts. The “holding ring - like the H4 has ) twists and comes off the the bulb assembly toward the front. You install this first, then your rubber protective boot and then the light assembly goes in and turns to lock. Now item 2. Is the only issue and fault with the bulb. When you insert and 1/2 turn, you can go beyond having the bulb exactly vertical in the assembly which will skew your lighting all out of spec, it will glare and be a non uniform pattern. The fix. Mark the fan assembly with a vertical line perpendicular to the actual LED chips. Now you know where vertical is and can install the assembly into the boot and the holder. Mine was about 5 degrees off if I just pushed in and turned till it stopper. I put mine vertical and then put a 1/4 dot of silicone between the holder and the bulb. Keeps it from moving, light is perfect. These bulbs have a fan assembly, it’s completely waterproof and I’ve submerged my DS in a few creeks with no failure of the light the fan just stays running under water till you turn off the ignition.

I got the Boomba kit. Personally, I think its worth the $150 not only because of the materials but also the R&D that went into the design. Though I'm curious how your DIY kit goes, let me know!

One thing I will say is to look into getting a stubby antenna when you do the riser otherwise the stock antenna will hit the spoiler when you lift your hatch. I got this one from Amazon for $25 and so far its held up really well.

ADVMonster has some good controllers for auxiliary lights.

I made my auxiliary light circuit using instructions from post #2 here: http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/10863-power-source-aux-lights.html

My bike has a free 12v port that's only on when the key is in the on position which I used for the relay switch. I don't know what your bike has that's similar to it though.

I bought these:
DIGITEN 5x20mm GDC Fuse Holder Inline screw type with 16 AWG wire (Pack of 10)

Foxnovo Fast-blow Glass Fuses Quick Blow Car Glass Tube Fuses Assorted Kit Amp

HELLA 965400001 12V 30A SPST Relay with Bracket

I designed and 3D printed a waterproof holder for the relay and switch that I used. I can send them your way if you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Stereo-Distribution-Block-Ground/dp/B078SCQJNM/

I saw that thing on Amazon like a year ago. Interesting to see one in the wild

was looking for something similar to this Audison block as an all in one distro solution:

https://www.amazon.com/Audison-Connection-Mini-Distributor-Masseverteiler/dp/B005C8MLZW/

....

afaik, those are really the only two options for blocks of that style.

I have no idea where to find that information, but I own one of these http://amzn.com/B001N4QY66 and I would use that and a power drill creatively to compare the ratio. Probably remove the tach and speedo and use the drill to spin the tach/speedo and compare an actual measurement of the drill with the measurement on the speedo/tach. I used my power drill to test out my tach when I had to disassemble and clean it to get it to work when I first bought my bike.

Replace your horn. Its only $30 and pretty easy to do.

Please share the video you found!

I use this boost converter for my laptop. I used a lighter duty one previously but my laptop can really consume some juice, and the other ones would overheat and fail. I combine them with a typical cig outlet cord and the laptop end of a cheapo charger. You could also fid a pre-made one if you know the specs of the plug and its power requirements.

I installed this switch panel and all my DC stuff is wired on a switch. The labels on the switches are stupid but you can put a label sticker over them. I also have several of these around the bus.

When you convert between AC and DC power, it's very generous to figure on only losing about 15% for each conversion. If you go with that, though, and you have a 100 watt load (laptop charger) using a typical AC adapter (15% loss here) through a typical inverter (15% loss here) to a typical battery (15% loss here), you're going to be consuming over 150W from your battery...And that's being very kind, it's likely more like 180W.

If you use a boost converter like the one I liked, it's more than 90% efficient, but let's just say it's 90%. It's only doing one transition, so your 100W load is only consuming 110W or so from your battery.

I mean if you can find a Pontiac dealership then maybe. Otherwise most audio shops don't bother repairing factory radios, unless you find someone that specializes in it. It's like trying to repair a car that was in a heavy front end collision, you just write it off and declare it totalled not attempt to repair it. I've had customers come and say a dealership wanted $1k+ to repair their radio whereas a brand new aftermarket deck installed, with more features, only came out to <$300.

But yeah, see if a friend knows radios or go to your local shop and get an estimate. Here's the parts for your own research:

Dash kit, 99-2003

Antenna adaptor, 40-GM10

Harness, PAC RP5-GM11

Dead thread, but just for posterity's sake: I've started experimenting with these.

I think these can be utilized safely. I'm basing a build around a RapidLED aluminum enclosure. This allows me to earth ground anything I may bump in the tent. I've also bought inline fuse holders to limit the current on both legs (independently) of the AC (positioned as close to the main power cord as feasible.) Finally, a little kapton tape to cover the solder joints that can't be heat-shrinked (eg., right on the boards themselves, which are behind a the enclosure's plastic splash-shield to begin with.)

Just a little taste from today's initial testing, I think the 50 watt ICs may be a bit ambitious. I wired up three of them on my 20" enclosure, and even with the 92mm fan going (though in fairness, without thermal compound behind the boards) they were putting off a bit of smoke. Upon shutdown, none of the wires look melted, so I think the smoke must have been from the boards themselves. I'm not sure if this is some initial out-gassing, but I'm uncomfortable with it. I'm going to try again with some 20w & 30w ICs. The flicker that Big Clive talks about on his youtube channel wasn't very noticeable to my naked eye.

Links to some of the things I purchased and am happy with:

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station


Hakko FX-901/P Cordless Soldering Iron

NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal

Carviya 12V 24V Heavy Duty 16 AWG 15A 20A Male Plug Cigarette Lighter Adapter

A 12 speaker system is going to need 3 4 channel amps at 4 ohms, and you will want a good dsp with an adequate number of line outs rather than relying on that many rca splitters. And that's without subwoofers. Then replacing those speakers is going to cost a pretty penny too. I would budget about ten times more if you want to use all those speakers

Dsp:

Alpine pxe-0850s- $700

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PXE0850/Alpine-PXE-0850S.html


Amp:

Pioneer gm a6704 or similar - $140x3, $420 total

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMA6704/Pioneer-GM-A6704.html?tp=35782

Speakers:

Infinity reference 6.5 or similar - $75 a pair, 6 pairs- $450

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_473750/6-6-1-2-6-3-4-Speakers.html?tp=78072


Head unit:

Doesn't really matter what you buy with the dsp, as long as it has at least 4 pre outs

Jvc kd-x360bts - $70

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX360B/JVC-KD-X360BTS.html?tp=72310

Install:

You'd need some serious custom work to get 3 amps and a dsp installed, no one makes a wiring kit for that.

Large fuse block - $35

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078SCQJNM/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1

0ga Inline fuse holder - $10

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/inline-fuse-holders/sp/bassik-0-gauge-anl-in-line-fuse-holder-with-fuse/

25 feet 0 gauge power/ground wire -$25

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/bassik-power-wire/sp/bassik-0-gauge-power-ground-wire-red/

100 feet 12 gauge speaker wire - $20

http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/speaker-wire/bassik-speaker-wire/sp/bassik-12-gauge-speaker-wire-audio-cable/

20' 4 channel rca cable - $25

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/karma-v3-rca-cables/sp/karma-v3-twisted-4-channel-coaxial-rca-cable-20-feet/

6x 3' 2 channel rca cable - $1.79 a set, $12 total

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/bassik-rca-cables/sp/bassik-twisted-pair-2-channel-ofc-rca-cable-1-meter-3-feet/

Metra dash install kit - $11

Metra 99-3002 Dash Kit For GM Truck And Van 95-05 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029X1LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ACOHDb99YRAGC

Metra radio wiring kit and antennae adapter- ~~$25

Various fuses, wire terminals, cable management, ferrules, tools etc - $50

Total- ~$1853. Budget $2000 for shipping, taxes, unseen extra costs

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Carviya-Cigarette-Lighter-Inverter-Electric/dp/B01HGO2OIS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=12v+plug&qid=1564598312&s=gateway&sprefix=12v+olug&sr=8-3

Really helpful for testing stuff before installing it.

Accessory wire is the 12v+ that gets current when you put your car key in the ignition and turn it (or, if you have wireless keys, just when ever the radio can play, but not the engine) (accessory has 12v+ with the engine running)

Basically, if you can turn your radio on, the accessory wire has current.

You want to use this wire, because the lights will turn off automatically when you get out the car.

You can tap into the wire using a t-tap like this

Nilight 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit, 2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DXa2Cb03G4FAR

While I totally agree the down side is that OPs vehicle requires a wire harnes that cost almost $100. The nice side is that it does everything.

For some one who's just looking for aux input the pac/isimple style units can work for less.

What are you trying to simulate? RC helicopters can run at a wide variety of rotor speeds depending on blade geometry and performance goals. High performance 3D flight will often see head speeds of 3000-4000 RPM on platforms as large as 600 size. If you're going for efficiency you can get asymmetrical blades and run much lower head speed (~1000 RPM or even lower has been done). Any speed between those two is a realistic speed, so the choice of what speed to use is for you to decide depending on what makes sense in the context of your application.

This is true for collective-pitch helicopters. If you're talking specifically about fixed pitch helicopters then head speed is directly tied to lift, in which case it still doesn't do a lot of good to choose a particular head speed because the chosen head speed will vary based on the lift required at any given time.

You don't need a strobe though, and tachs aren't that expensive.

I got a Wolo Badboy off Amazon, and I replaced my high-tone (driver's side) with it.

It was very easy and I didn't have to run a relay. Though I did have to make an extension wire because the factory wire wouldn't reach.

As for the horn itself, very satisfied. It's not only loud, but it makes an urgent sound that grabs your attention. Only downside is you can't really toot at people at red lights without sounding really obnoxious.

Forgot to mention...

A good SWR meter is always advisable. Never trust the radios built in SWR meter.

SWR is short for, Standing Wave Ratio. It's basically a measurement of resistance from your radio thru the cable and thru the antenna. You adjust your antenna by either lengthening it, or "trimming" it down. The Solarcon A-99 antenna has tuning rings to make this process easier.

Here is a good link that explains more on this;

https://www.rightchannelradios.com/blogs/installation-guides/18428275-understanding-swr

Also here is my meter and jumper cable;

Astatic PDC1 100 Watt SWR Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ULN610/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dvYqDbTM72D6M

RG58A/U COAX CABLE 3 foot Jumper for CB / Ham Radio - Workman CX-3-PL-PL -Made in the USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IDVKR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uvYqDb81KE2D4

I've heard those called Vampire taps before. It doesn't seem right to call this a "brute force" mod. It's quite simple, elegant, and non-destructive.

EDIT

I guess vampire tap just refers to the old 10BaseT networking thing. Found these "T-taps" on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B07CP987BN

I don't know how much you consider "stupid expensive" but I got something like this, and I'm sure if you look at ebay they're even cheaper than this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo-Laser-Tachometer-Contact/dp/B001N4QY66

These are 12v, so you just need to make sure the cigarette lighter in your car can handle the power. So for example most late model hondas have the main/front cigarette lighter rated at 180w (the rating is screen printed right on it) which is more than enough power for an IH like these. I run one of my homebrews on the cigarette lighter in my car - just by plugging a 15A (180w) fused cigarette lighter connector (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGO2OIS/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_8RkADbX5XY409) into the back of the unit (obviously you have to put the correct sized DC power connector for your IH at the other end).

I think you and I use very different devices then. I've seen plenty of glass fuses on circuit boards and thermal fuses that self-reset.

Anyways, to OP's question, I do not believe you should install a switch like that without a 3 amp or less fuse inline, even if it's one of those glass fuses in a "container" it'll make sure your switch doesn't get overloaded.

https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-5x20mm-Holder-Inline-screw/dp/B00VLBAF84/

ahah didn't see your tag before; I used to live near GR. heres one looks like the cost of a horn is between $30-60. You can probably find tutorials yourself on how to do it, I'm sure most of them just hook up to the wiring of your current horn system.

The tach can still be off. Laser tachs are pretty cheap.

What RPM are you looking to idle at? 700?

> they give off gases that may be dangerous. Is that anything to worry about if I have a roof vent fan and another fan running inside while I sleep?

Nah. Even if you were to leave a dead battery charging in the sun, or a full battery depleting in the dark, you'd notice the gas (smells like rain) before it'd become an explosion hazard, and it's gases that'd wake you up and make you feel uncomfortable enough to start changing something before they could hurt you from breathing them. It's not like Carbon Monoxide, which will make you sleepier while killing you or anything. One has to kinda try pretty hard to enclose it (made even more difficult in a vehicle), with way more battery, to get an explosion or fast enough asphyxiation with that kind of stuff. Just ventilate all the time, even if passively, like you said.

> I'm confused as to how I hook up 12v outlets to my charge controller so I can actually charge things.

I know some controllers have load monitoring, but I find that feature pretty much useless, and it's the only reason I can see to hook up loads through the controller. Maybe put your fridge on it, in case your battery bank takes a dump, so you don't also lose a fridge full of food, but otherwise, I prefer to run the solar charger straight to the battery, and run all loads off of the battery. I like to use one of these as my positive bus bar and "main" distribution, right off the house bank. One fuse for alternator charge circuit, one for solar, one for inverter, and one for less-demanding loads through a guy like this.

Do you have the BLIS system?

These are the ones I got for my 19' STX and they are extremely bright.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPIYDWU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here you go these sound great, and install with stock wiring. I put them on my 2001, no more wimpy beep, more like a BMW

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FXMGLY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! Would I use this to connect to the outlet? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGO2OIS

> I'm looking more for what, if anything, is needed in the wiring behind the socket.

You need an Automotive Receptacle, and an Inline Fuse (2A is plenty) to protect it.

> But I'm wondering if there is some other interference on that battery and the wiring that I'm going to need to address.

What else do you have hooked up on the Leisure Battery and how do you charge it?


-------


Automotive Socket:

https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Marine-12-Volt-Power-Outlet/dp/B003EET3XY/

(IIRC 12V and 24V use the same physical socket, though you might want to look for a 24V specific one if you don't want to risk it)

------

Inline Fuse (Actual Fuse Not Included):

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400ATCFH16-5-Fuse-Holder-Gauge/dp/B008CVPE8C

And to think i was going to get this, that shark fin is totally interesting now.

I have been debating buying one of these for my router table. I was hoping someone could tell me if there is a way to connect some kind of tachometer to the motor to display RPM.

edit: Nevermind. Apparently they make this thing

Be Heard!

They sound like a 90's F250 Horn.

You mean like using one of these from the local car parts depot !

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5DQWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope that link works...if not, it's the
Wolo (419) Bad Boy Air Horn - 12 Volt

It was pretty easy to install. Had to install the relay as well. I'm no electrician and not much of a mechanic, but the instructions were all there, ezpz

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SzyZDbW15NCS6

Are these the correct ones? I just want to make sure before I buy. I might look on eBay to see if I can just get a couple since I don't need so much lol

For reference, I have around 14,000 miles on my 18" Michelin MXM4 tires that came with the car (and around 7,000 on separate winter tires). When I checked the tread last they were all between 5/32nds and 6/32nds. I don't usually drive too aggressively but EVs are notorious for wearing out tires quicker due to the instant torque. Remember that the factory tires have a treadwear warranty that will get you a discount on your next set.


Also, it's cheap and easy to check your own tread depths using a tool like this that you can find in the automotive section of Walmart or in an auto parts store www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F5N55B0

5x20mm AGC Fuse Holder Inline , something like this. Maybe not such heavy leads.

To wire in, one side would connect; Power in, and pin 2 of both SSR's.
The other side; Controller pins 1, 5, and 7.

AH sorry missed that. May have to make up your own for that. Not a big following on those. You can buy general kits taht you can modify as you need to. Just make sure and get one that has the correct plugs for your bulbs.

Somethign like:
https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Ceramic/dp/B00H5JFHR0

The bypass harness was for behind the stereo. Almost an "adapter" so to speak as well as a bypass. This is what I bought and what is now attached behind the stereo to the corresponding wires:

PAC RP5-GM11 Radio Replacement Interface With Built-In OnStar Retention/Steering Wheel Control Retention/Navigation Outputs for Select GM Class II Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHUA9VA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LAdoDb36VCBBW

cool, so would this do the trick -
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400ATCFH16-5-Fuse-Holder-Gauge/dp/B008CVPE8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493947984&sr=8-1&keywords=16+gauge+fuse

A lot of people will tell you to do the penny trick, but I hate it. Coins wear and that is not an accurate measurement for something like tires, which are a safety device. A tire depth gauge like this is less than 5 bucks and will always give you accurate results. Buy one for each car and one for the house so you always have one around. I would replace around 4-5/32nds myself as I see you already did.

https://www.amazon.com/GODESON-88702-Smart-Color-Coded/dp/B01F5N55B0/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_2/137-8617068-0944230?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01F5N55B0&pd_rd_r=a036bac7-2c6f-44e1-ba76-7d40b8a30394&pd_rd_w=Kn0A9&pd_rd_wg=VVTGw&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=2ATS0B6FGE716G022FK6&psc=1&refRID=2ATS0B6FGE716G022FK6

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You can usually pick on of these up at an auto parts store for a few bucks.

Generally speaking, around 4 or 5/32 you've got a dry-weather-only tire, and they're legally bald at 2/32

Pair Square 5''x 7'' Led Headlight High Low Beam Headlamp for Jeep Wrangler YJ Cherokee XJ Trucks 4X4 Offroad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0733G5QLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_kBVCHVpJQCQgW

Dual High Low Beam Headlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H5JFHR0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm running these two and it's amazing

the only other thing I see that you should consider getting is a swr meter

http://www.amazon.com/Astatic-PDC1-100-Watt-Meter/dp/B004ULN610/

when your dealing with low watts system like a CB matching your antenna to the CB can make a major difference on your transmit and receive, as much as a few miles.

I put a Stubby on the day after I bought the car and I've had zero issues with GPS, AM/FM, or Satellite.

I live in mid-Missouri, so I've seen a mixture of small city, urban, and rural areas since the install.

Edit: Link to the antenna I purchased.

http://www.amazon.com/Wolo-Model-419-Black-Design/dp/B000F5DQWY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1312389757&sr=1-1

Tachometers are overrated. If you need to 'calibrate' a variable speed knob, pickup one of these;

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo-Laser-Tachometer-Contact/dp/B001N4QY66/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523578148&sr=8-4&keywords=tachometer&dpID=511BEAxqKFL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

This is what I have

https://www.amazon.com/Astatic-PDC1-100-Watt-Meter/dp/B004ULN610/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=ham+swr+meter&qid=1568150950&s=gateway&sprefix=Ham+swr&sr=8-8

You would have to make a cable that goes from a cigarette lighter plug to the molex connectors used on that board. A molex pigtail is provided with the board, and you could combine it with this to make a power cable.

Through the remote monitoring device: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo-Laser-Tachometer-Contact/dp/B001N4QY66/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549557310&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=laser+tachometer&psc=1

Probe all day . More accurate and more precise

Adapter for USB to female 12v cigarette lighter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J67JIOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eAp9ybMD0SJ91

Huh.. I did the opposite and put this one on my car.

Here's a Stebel Nautilus knock off that will be just as good...
http://www.amazon.com/Wolo-Model-419-Black-Design/dp/B000F5DQWY/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1341946366&sr=1-3&keywords=stebel+nautilus+motorcycle+horn

Nope. USB only.

Edit: which brings up a point I didn’t think about....

Must be an adapter.

ARECORD USB A Male to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Female Converter (Max Output 12V 0.8A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J67JIOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xn9QCbE2H2WK2

You should always tune the antenna. You will need a SWR meter to make the adustments.

I keep this one in my Jeep for when I hit something and need to check tuning:

http://www.amazon.com/Astatic-PDC1-100-Watt-Meter/dp/B004ULN610/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1425314724&sr=8-6&keywords=swr%2Fpower+meter

It will get the job done.

I installed this one on my beater truck. Looks to be available for under $100. Also there's a youtube video on how to install it. Just wire it into one of the backup lights (I used a T-Tap) and it will only come on when you put it in reverse.

RioRand Dual USB 12v to 5v 3a transformer; Scosche 16ga fuse holder with two right angle usb cables from startech.com

That chime may not be coming from the stereo itself, there are adapters for the stereo that add this functionality. I recently installed an ilx-107 in my car and left out the chime module from the adapter as it was obnoxiously loud.

Adapter like this.

I bought the Bad Boy horn from Wolo, it mounts in the same place as the stock horn and is only slightly larger. It's pretty freaking loud. Just make sure you use a relay otherwise you will blow a fuse if you use the horn and brakes at the same time

http://www.amazon.com/Wolo-419-Bad-Boy-Horn/dp/B000F5DQWY

From my Google doc:

• gsxr front end
  
• protek ll-45 lowering links (at stock height, from previous owner)
  
• delkevic 320mm ss tri-oval slip-on exhaust (w/o baffle)
  
• vortex v3 keyless gas cap
  
• oem sv tank pad (990D0-16G00-PAD)
  
• generic mirror plug blanks
  
• mzs black shorty levers
  
• yamaha r6 throttle sleeve
  
• speed bleeders f/r
  
• targa fender eliminator
  
• targa mini oval turn signals
  
• sbl ba9s led turn signal bulbs
  
• generic led flasher relay
  
• sbl lsc-100a brake light strobe module
  
• opt7 fluxbeam cree h4 led headlight
  
• vortex steel 520 sprockets 15f/47r (15/45 stock)
  
• rk racing gb520xso chain
  
• svracing captured rear wheel spacer kit
  
• smartmoto dealer mode tool
  
• tps adjustment (set to ~1600 rpm)
  
• sv1000 air snorkel (13891-16G20)

I have a blackvue DR590-2CH with a "power consumption avg. 290mA (3.48W at 12V)". The camera comes with a cigarette lighter plug. I'd like to use the Model 3 USB outlet (5V/2A) instead. Also, this post.

Do you think this converter will do the job? My basic concern is knowing enough to be dangerous and breaking something expensive or setting something on fire.

And it's really border-line emergency at that point. 2/32 is the minimum by law. It's not going to work so great if wet or snowy. Tires should be replaced around 4/32, before they degrade too much in slippery conditions.

I recommend getting a depth gauge to throw in your glovebox. Under $4 on amazon.