A few weeks ago I posted some pics of a "quick and dirty" induction heater I made:

https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/8igobf/gear_shot_yet_another_quick_and_dirty_dynavap/

The heater I built in the previous post worked great, but I wasn't happy that it heated continuously when it was powered on. I decided to add an "on demand" mode, similar to the way the Portside functions: I wanted the induction heater to be energized only when the vapcap was in need of being heated.

I decided to use the same method and hardware that the Portside uses for its triggering mechanism: a small momentary switch at the base of the coil, utilizing the same 12 mm x 12 mm Arduino 'tactile' input switch as the Portside. This switch is normally open but closes (and activates the circuit) when the vapcap is inserted in the induction heater opening and lightly pressed down. I mounted this to a 25 mm square Zip tie "sticky base" using a small dab of hot glue, and ran the wires under the base through a drilled hole. I am happy with how it came out.

I took one other feature from the Portside design and decided to use a MOS FET triggering module to handle the actual power switching, sparing my momentary switch from having to pass enough current to power the heater.

This is the finished desktop unit - pictures, diagrams and some other notes:

https://imgur.com/a/pzRe3SV


PARTS LIST:

12mm x 12mm Arduino Switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My original 'big red switch' was a pull from an Epiphone Valve Junior guitar amplifier, left over from an earlier project. It looks nice, but it's nothing special - any latching (i.e., non-momentary) single pole/single throw (SPST) switch will do. This site has some switches that look pretty good and could work:

https://www.sparkfun.com/categories/145?page=1

Momentary trigger switch base:
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Adhesive-Mounting-Organizer-Management-Fastener/dp/B074279VJG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1527451422&sr=8-16&keywords=zip+tie+sticky+mount

Like the Portside's trigger, I used a 12mm x 12mm Arduino tactile (momentary) switch. Mine is hot-glued to a Zip tie "sticky base", which has the foam removed and is screwed to my board. I kept the stock Arduino switch button and trimmed its edge to fit inside the tube. There is a small segment of 7/16" wooden dowel inside the tube to achieve the correct height.

Pyrex tube:
Iwodevape Replacement Glass Tank for Cloupor Cloutank M3 Vaporizer authentic
https://www.fasttech.com/p/5236304

MOS FET trigger module:
15A 400W MOS FET Trigger Switch Drive Module PWM Regulator Control Panel
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOS-FET-Trigger-Switch-Drive-Module-PWM-Regulator-Control-Panel-15A-400W-NEW/331961560311?hash=item4d4a736cf7:g:7IsAAOSwEzxYeEwQ or similar. Just search for the above part description, you'll find the right one. It's a popular Arduino circuit.

If you plan on using a momentary switch, this is the way to go. Don't make the momentary switch directly supply the heater current.

Heater:
Yosoo 5V-12V ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Power Supply Module With Coil
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C71XKZ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power jack:
If you can solder:
https://www.amazon.com/2-1x5-5mm-Female-Barrel-Socket-Connector/dp/B01M3WBIA3/ref=sr_1_21?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-21&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female

If you can't:
https://www.amazon.com/Sumaote-2-1x5-5mm-Connector-Terminal-Adapter/dp/B0761NL8V6/ref=sr_1_18?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-18&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female . Although, seriously, this probably isn't a good project for you if you can't solder.

I know many of you have these for yourselves and don't need any help or parts lists, but this may help those who need a little more guidance.

Updated to add: the above links are intended to show the correct parts, but may not be the cheapest or fewest quantities available.

Cheers!

I haven't done this myself but I read on here that you can keep the original button and joystick if you buy a push button microswitch like this, https://www.amazon.com/Microswitch-Arcade-Button-Standard-Jamma/dp/B01IJ8VYK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1541467443&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=arcade+button+micro+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZSINy0f9L&ref=plSrch

I'm not sure if that is the right one, but it is something like that to get the button to register, the stock button are all glued up and too much work to clean. You'll also need wire, USB encoder, usb wires. Not sure about the joystick though. The goal is to convert the joystick to USB so it can register in retropie/ raspberry pi.

When you add it all up for what you need to buy and do, it makes much more sense to replace everything like what most people are doing here. I bought a 2 player joystick set with lighted buttons on Ebay for $36. Not the best set but it is a little better than stock and a lot easier to work with.

Just make sure to look for buttons that are size 30mm since the hole on the unit are for size 30 mm. My set came with 16 30mm buttons and 4 24mm buttons.

I did a thing again.

​

I love Dynavap. I love Nintendo from my childhood. I found a way to combine them. The rough steps I used are:

​

1. Chassis: Disassemble the NES Advantage. (guide). Clean all of the parts in warm, soapy water, because joystick is probably gross after 30+ years.
   
2. Joystick: Take out the joystick. Slice off the "stick" part of the joystick with a dremel. Slice half of the bottom off with a dremel (to make room for the induction heater power supply). Drill 2 holes for the induction coil wire to pass through.
   
3. PCB: You want to retain the PCB so that all of the buttons on the controller can still be pressed. They will be non-operational, but still fun to press. You need to replace A/B button switches. Use momentary switches; I used 2 spare mechanical keyboard switches (Kailh Box Navy), because I'm a keyboard nerd and like switches that are clicky as hell. In any case, drill the PCB to make room for the switches.
   
4. A/B buttons: The plastic stem of the A/B buttons probably will not be the right height for your new switches. Use a dremel to shave off the plastic stem until it is the right height for your switches.
   
5. Induction Coil Power Supply: Bend the two "coils" off to the side. You will likely need to cut the copper coils going to the PCB, and re-solder them back on. The coils will not have enough "slack" to allow you to bend them without modification. Once done, the two coils fit perfectly in two of the joystick mounting posts.
   
6. Power: Install a 12V DC input jack; install an on/off switch for main power.
   
   

   Parts List
   

   
   

• (O) = Optional; (R) = Required
  
• (R) Heating: Induction Heater power supply & coil ($13)
  
• (R) Glass Stem: Cloupor Cloutank M3 Pyrex Glass($4)
  
• (R) Power Delivery: MOSFET trigger module 400W / 15A ($7) <-- you can find this for $1 on eBay; but delivery takes 1 month.
  
• (R) DC Input jack: DC Input jack 5.5mm x 2.1mm, 10 pack ($11)
  
• (R) Switch (operating on/off): [Momentary push button switch]. I chose to use 2 Cherry-clone mechanical keyboard switches.
  
• (R) Power Supply Unit: Kastar 12V 6A Power supply (link). Thank you /u/crossfires for the recommendation! Works beautifully!
  
• (O) Switch (main power, only DC or batteries): On/off toggle ($3) <-- Look for any switch that is single-pole single-throw (SPST) toggle switch. Buy this switch if only using 1 power source. Buy the switch below if you are using both DC power and batteries.
  
• (O) Terminal block: 6-position terminal strip blocks ($12 for 10-pack)
  
  ​
  
  

  Miscellaneous parts:
  

  
  

• Electrical wire
  
• Electrical tape
  
• Various screws, nuts, bolts, etc.
  
• Craft glue
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Scrap craft wood / boards (you can buy this at home depot or craft shops. Look for 1/4" craft wood boards; about $10 per large board)
  
• Tools used: Screwdriver | wire stripper | needle-nose pliers | hacksaw | dremel/rotary tool | soldering iron | drill | drill bits and spade bits Wire everything up, close up the chassis, and you're good to go.
  
  ​
  
  ​

If you can get a good balancing charger and can be responsible and safe with it, a lipo will definitely be better than IMRs as far as performance goes. If you do go with lipos, you should probably get a better rev switch.

Here's a good rev switch:
https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202242&sr=8-2&keywords=15A+microswitch

And here's a great lipo:
https://www.amazon.com/ZIPPY-Compact-1000mAh-Lipo-Pack/dp/B00TDCDKLW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202444&sr=8-1&keywords=zippy+compact+1000mah+3s+25c+lipo+pack

Wow, thanks! Be sure to post any wands you make to r/wandsmith, we’d love to see them and are there to help!
Another thing I bought was a deadman switch so when you hit the floor, and check your pants lol, the lathe will automatically turn off. Also makes it easier to start and stop to see how things are going without having to mess with switches (depending on your lathe)

not after a quick search ( ,_,)

seems like all of the "smart home" products are 15amps

off the top of my head, you could accomplish the same goal using a relay board and some RIBs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KFX63R/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LEUJU6/

but you're venturing towards a rabbit hole of how complicated/expensive do you want this to be :)

maybe someone else knows of a 20amp smart switch, for an elegant solution.

Not quite what you want as it requires a lot of assembly, but I'm doing something similar using Hikvision cameras, z-wave, and OpenHAB on an old PC. This gets pretty powerful if you go all-in with automation.

I get a push notification to my phone, and also it grabs a frame from my hikvision camera and emails it to the SMS gateway for my mobile phone. I keep push notification because it's much faster to deliver.

I added a relay to my doorbell to use as a simple contact. I'm connected to a mimolite to connect into my automation. It's just wired in parallel with the existing chime like a second chime.

Functional Devices Ribu1C - Rib Relay, Enclosed 10 Amp Spdt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LESCI2/

My wife works overnights, so I'm also using the mimolite to silence the upstairs chime while my wife is sleeping by switching it to ring the basement chime. I can still hear it on the main level but not on the second. If the front door is not opened within 60 seconds, the house speaks a reminder alert. If doorbell is set to chime in the basement, it reduces volume to 60% for the reminder.

Here's my setup for reference. https://m.imgur.com/a/fzUE3

Bonus, I'm using a node.js service to watch alarm events from my hikvision cameras and relay those events into OpenHAB. This allows me to get notifications on in-camera crossline detection to alert me if someone is on the porch but hasn't rung the doorbell. http://www.ragingcomputer.com/2016/06/hikvision-motion-detection-in-openhab-using-node-js

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  

  
  

  And here's the part list!
  

  
  

  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  

  ---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

After seeing a couple posts of people's custom button boxes on reddit I knew I had found my next project. I've been doing quite a bit of Arduino and small electronics lately, and this was the perfect fit. So off I went to Amazon, ordered a bunch of stuff I thought might be cool / useful and started piecing things together. Took a few weekends of working on it here and there, the most time consuming part just being tediously soldering and wiring the 38 inputs.

​

Was originally going to set it into some sort of project enclosure, but ended up getting impatient and just mounting it to two pieces of plywood with some feet. It added enough heft to it that I can lift the switch guard and rotate the somewhat stiff selector without issue. Eventually I'll get a better enclosure for it, probably grab one off of Hammond mfg or get someone with a larger 3D printer to make one. The Engine Start and black/red button (that I'm going to use for quantum jump) have leds in them that I don't currently have hooked up to the Arduino, but once we get some sort of API into Star Citizen hopefully I can tie them to engine state and jump spool/ready state.

​

The controls are:

Power on, flight ready, 3 misc buttons, zoom rotary encoder, 3 misc buttons, quantum spool, quantum jump

Hat switch + center for shield distribution and reset, engine, shield, and thruster power switches, power distribution profile selector, misc selector

Flare Fire button, flare select, 7 misc toggle switches, self destruct switch, eject switch.

​

I mapped everything to a button in the Arduino code (no rotary encoder as zoom in this screenshot) so that I can easily bind to functions in Star Citizen. Unfortunately without an API this means the switch positions can get out of sync with the actual ship status easily. If by the time of release / they make an API there still isn't a way to read / set state by API then I'll probably make a new version with only toggle buttons.

​

Code Libraries

PCF8574_library for interfacing with the IO expanders
- https://github.com/xreef/PCF8574_library

ArduinoJoystickLibrary for emulating a joystick on windows
- https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary/

​

Useful Instructables

Joystick Library
- https://www.instructables.com/id/Create-a-Joystick-Using-the-Arduino-Joystick-Libra/

PCF8574
- https://www.instructables.com/id/PCF8574-GPIO-Extender-With-Arduino-and-NodeMCU/

​

Parts List

1 Terminal Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGDWJ2V

3 PCF8574 IO Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B95LMLQ

1 Rotary Encoder - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DM2YMT4

1 4 Position Rotary Selector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JN2967L

1 Red Ring Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017ILTX60

1 Engine Start Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MK2394L

5 Heavy Duty Toggle Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KBC5VH

1 12 Position Rotary Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074WMC9C8

1 5-Channel Rocker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K5PFPNC

1 Arduino Micro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFY2S56

7 Red/Black Momentary Push Buttons - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

2 Red Cover Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

8 Small Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013DZB6CO

I ended up building a relay-controlled outlet that I plug an aqualifter in to, and put it all in a project box. The parts including a 5-pack of float switches cost me around 20 bucks total (mostly on amazon). I used this relay (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00843IV06), a flyback diode I had on hand, this project box (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BENLY), a pair of generic float switches, an outlet adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GN61W48) and a couple parts I had on-hand (generic power cord [just cut the end off], and 12v power supply [I broke the brick and fit the parts in the project box, then split the AC in to power both the 12v transformer and passthrough the relay to power the outlet).


I used two float switches at two different heights. The bottom is for the actual water level, and I set the top one just below the baffle height in the return section of my sump - if it ever lifts, it cuts power to the pump.


I also have this plugged in to a digital timer with 8 adjustable timer periods as a failsafe. I measured my evaporation in one day and found I lost roughly 1 gallon in 24 hours. I allow the ATO to run for 5 minutes at each of 3/6/9/12 am/pm for a total of 40 minutes per day possible, which is roughly 2 gallons per day maximum.


Google is your friend for wiring the relay. No soldering required since I bought the relay with a socket. Fitting everything in the project box was a little tight, but it worked out. I mounted it to the side of my sump with 3m-backed zip tie mounts (like this - https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cable-2-way-Adhesive-CTB1X1BGA-C/dp/B00745TPY6) - the wires on the float switches were not long enough to have it further from the tank.


Good luck! It was a fun project and should hold me over until I can convince myself to buy a tunze osmolator (maybe next year).


Edit - overall, the project cost me about 35 bucks, plus the cost of a pump, since I had some parts on-hand already.

You can! The best way to do this is to use the ESP8266's GPIO pins to send a PWM signal to your 240v device through a solid state relay. ( https://www.amazon.com/TIHOOD-SSR-25-3-32VDC-5-200V-SSR-25DD/dp/B07PQL4CM6 )

This allows you to use the ESP's 3/5v signal to safely control the 240v device. It's fairly easy too! Hit me up if you want some more pointers :)

Most gas fireplaces today us a millivolt gas value. If your fireplace happens to have a fan switch or 120v available near the fireplace switch you maybe in luck. I used the 120v from the fan of my fireplace in parallel to power a relay and added a Lutron Caseta switch in series to turn the 120v on/off to the relay which in turn opens or closes the contacts for the low voltage solenoid. The added benefit of using a smart switch is being able to add it to my voice assistant Alexa or Home Assistant.

120v White wire -> relay <--> smart switch <- 120v Black wire

..................................coil.................................................................

......millivolt line<-> N.O. <-> millivolt line.......

Some more info on fireplace wiring.

There are fireplace remotes available depending on your fireplace's solenoid.

Alright, ya know what, fine. I'm going with this https://www.amazon.com/PC537-1C-5S-X-2-Ultra-Miniature-Automotive-Relay/dp/B07FP593R4 being controlled by my regulator PCB at 6 volts (on the coil side) and using active braking at the full 7.4 volts for the switch side, throwing a 1N4500 diode between the motor and relay cause I don't know if back EMF can f*** up the relay, and I'm gunna do the same between the relay and the PCB just to be careful because I don't fully understand if I should be worried about that. Happy?

​

Edit: for the sake of those reading-up on this subject later, I installed the relay linked above last night and everything is working well so far! The feed-rate of my magazines is now the limiting factor, though when they do feed correctly, I have indeed seen a noticeable increase in darts-per-second now that the Meishel 2.0 motors are getting all the voltage and current they desire. However, because of the inconsistent feed rate, I can't really estimate how many darts per second I'm averaging after the upgrade.

I'm in a similar situation and have been brainstorming about it for awhile. You have two options:

1. Ditch your current wireless system and run a wire to a converter that changes the millivolt signal to 24V.
   
   https://www.instructables.com/id/Nest-Thermostat-With-Gas-Fireplace-or-Other-Milliv/
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDBP9Q/?coliid=I28F84ZZZ5MVLS&colid=2UT1TBBXYOV2A&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
   
   
2. Build your own wireless transmitter using Arduino and Raspberry Pi/Google Things/etc. I'm trying this option because my current remote has some unique settings. Here's the tutorial on how to get/transmit the wireless signal:
   
   https://arduinobasics.blogspot.com/2014/06/433-mhz-rf-module-with-arduino-tutorial.html
   
   ​
   
   Hopefully I'll be successful and post my results, but more likely I'll give up on being able to adjust flame height via my voice and just go with option 1. Good luck!

> Would it matter which side of the motor circuit I place the relay in?

No

>Do I require any of the auxiliary electronic components like the flyback diode and/or some resistors if I go the route of using a relay?

Putting a flyback diode and some suppression caps near the motor might be a good idea to reduce noise/EMI since electronics are present, but the relay contacts don't need either any more than a direct-acting switch does. The coil which is being driven by the solid-state power stage should have a flyback diode.

>Since I'm running 2 fangs for the motors, but only a M2.0 for the pusher, and both connect to ground separately, that means I only need to find a relay that can hold up to the stall amperage of JUST the M2.0, not all 3 combined, right?

Yes

>or perhaps this: https://www.amazon.com/PC537-1C-5S-X-2-Ultra-Miniature-Automotive-Relay/dp/B07FP593R4 ?)

That would work:

• 5V coil
  
  
• SPDT: you need that for active braking of the motor
  
  
• 100A make 40A break at 14VDC is definitely sufficient for a M2

Thanks for the links. Thanks for letting me know layers are not accessible from USB that narrows my options. To clarify my non USB option was to solder a set of wires to the boards next to one of the ALPS switches and run the wires from those ~4 switches down to a row of foot switches so I can press the modifier with ether the keyboard or my foot. https://www.amazon.com/Etopars-6Pins-Momentary-Switch-Guitar/dp/B07519FJM7/ref=sr_1_130?ie=UTF8&qid=1525493883&sr=8-130&keywords=foot+switch something like this in a box with a hing for each and a piece of sheet metal over them as peddles. Or I could splurge on something like 4X of these: https://www.amazon.com/Philmore-LKG-Momentary-Foot-Switch/dp/B004GIIYK0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1525493691&sr=8-14&keywords=foot+switch

It comes pretty good. I do really like side snips - https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B076M3ZHBV/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1519155543&sr=1-3&keywords=side+cutters

And if you are shopping I would swap the part fan and thermistor:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermistor-Reprap-3D-Printer-Extruder/dp/B01DCFJBCC/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519155599&sr=1-2&keywords=m3+thermistor&dpID=51tiPDgI0ZL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a14112600ux0241-Brushless-Sleeve-Bearing-Cooling/dp/B016XMK6SE/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519155631&sr=1-4&keywords=24v+blower+fan&dpID=31iOokGKhLL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The thermistor I would swap right away. Lastly don't buy monoprice filament. Look at AIO Robotics, Esun, Hatchbox, AMZ3D, etc.

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

I've been teaching myself Python & C (well, the Arduino variant), IoT stuff (Arduino stuff, Node-RED, MQTT as a communication bus, etc), and have always been interested in networking...and this all meshes together wonderfully! At the moment in addition to the pihole project, I run a local wiki (dokuwiki), which is a surprisingly useful thing to have on your LAN too. Oh, and NTP properly configured to exchange locally among all the Linux boxes (with the primary external connection being time-c.nist.gov via a pfsense-based router).

The Raspberry Pi as a small GNU/Linux Debian computer is an amazing piece of kit for the price...

If you have any interest in programming, robotics, etc I'd highly recommend adding another ~$10 in parts to your Raspberry Pi:

Something like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SL0U3RG

with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01981EBBA

Or: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UACD13Q

You'll soon be buying soldering irons, and LEDs, and relays, and actuators, and sensors...oh my...

You can drive I/O through the Raspberry Pi's GPIO of course, but then it's tied up in some physical monster and you can't take advantage of the TREMENDOUS depth and breadth of the Arduino as an environment.

> g

I've been using this one on a Petsfang for 4 months now:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016XMK6SE

Works great, part quality is awesome. I mostly print with Sunlu PLA+ or Hatchbox PETG.

1. Don't kill yourself. ( educate yourself on being safe - assume nothing.)
   
   
2. A compressor can have a pretty high starting current so you should pick a device with higher rating than the load current. 3 to 5 x IMO.
   
   Example

If you have a soldering iron, you can get the parts to make something like that yourself - like technocraft/bolanrox mentioned, you can tap the 9v line going into a pedal, add a resistor to an LED to keep from overdriving the LED, and wire inline. Myself, I'm thinking of using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ulincos%C2%AE-Latching-Button-Suitable-Mounting/dp/B017KP67GI/

Camera
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078XV2MRH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This camera is sold only on amazon.ca, but u can get better cameras that are cheaper than the one i got.

Switches
https://www.amazon.com/yueton-Terminals-Position-Toggle-Switch/dp/B013DZB6CO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523136755&sr=8-3&keywords=DPdt

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LZVASTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pins
https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Female-Connector-Terminal-2-54mm/dp/B0146DJR9Q/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523136919&sr=8-6&keywords=male%2F+female+pin+connector+terminal

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0156C5538/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Female Rca
I used my old female rca cables that were just laying around but any female rca jack will work
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-RFIF2SW-Speaker-Adapter/dp/B00G352P2C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523137091&sr=8-5&keywords=female+rca+connector

It kinda depends on what kind of buttons the arcade cabinet uses. The switches can range anywhere from real MX style switches to something like a HAPP Microswitch or even a Sanwa Microswitch.

Either way if its not a cherry mx switch, you'd have to build everything from the ground up such as designing keycaps for the switches and creating a pcb/plate/case for it as well.

Thanks again, would this be an acceptable relay to use.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Channel-optocoupler-Support-Trigger/dp/B00LW15A4W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G3S0E83TCCD6FZ78SFFW

or this one.

https://www.amazon.com/TinaWood-SSR-25DD-Solid-State-5-200V/dp/B07F3WGRP4/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=5+volt+dc+relay&qid=1566485708&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Would something like this be good?

Looks ljuat like a the momentary foot switch I bought yesterday to switch between the clean and overdrive on my amp. Momentary Foot Switch : 30-17090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GIIYK0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This is the relay I bought when I setup my doorbell sensor last month. It's worked great so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LESCI2/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What you are describing is using one heating system for stage 1 and second system as stage 2. You just need to connect an isolation relay for stage 2. Then configure it as 2 stage heating in ecobee and set the thresholds. An enclosed relay like this one is probably best. Functional Devices RIBU1C Enclosed Pilot Relay, 10 Amp Spdt with 10-30 Vac/Dc/120 Vac Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LESCI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KRF2Db7WPP7H5

Well my Stryfe has a pair of MTB Rhino motors instead of the stock ones. They're 12v instead of the 6v stock motors, and run on a 3S LiPo battery instead of the four AAs in series it normally takes.

1.5v * 4 = 6v max vs the LiPo at 12.6v max

I made this to help it fit.

Keep in mind that you need to redo the wiring with something thicker to keep from burning it out. And replace the stock trigger switch with something heavier, I think I used one of these.

I put a little voltage meter on connected to the jam door as well, so I know when it's running low.

So basically I've completely replaced all of the electrical components but it sure hits a lot harder now. You can actually get some decent range from it.

If I wanted to mess with it further I'd probably replace the flywheels with something that could grip a bit better, but the problem I ran into messing with it last time was if they grip too hard they shred darts.

Ah okay, thanks

So is really any push-button compatible for an external power button? For example this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KP67GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_TBY.BbXEG0FKM

Thank you so much. I was on and off the phone with ecobee earlier and they couldn't give me a straight answer.

I had already purchased this relay and have it ready to install.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LESCI2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I will give it a shot later this evening. Thanks again.

Yeah I'm thinking the same thing. I did a little research and apparently Chinese fakes are very common with this particular converter and they don't work with the legit drivers or windows 8/8.1/10.

I ordered a 2102 as well. Thanks!

Funny thing, I just bought this one off Amazon to have around for some future project: http://www.amazon.com/Mushroom-DPST-Emergency-Button-Switch/dp/B0094GM004?ie=UTF8&keywords=emergency%20stop%20button&qid=1462997004&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3.

hey man, about to build my first heater tomorrow, I have a list of parts I ordered based on several threads and stuff you and others recommend I came up with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060U92FS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NCKQFW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G00GHQY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNSO3OM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


aside from wires, a box and tools (Ill get tomorrow from work)

am I set or do I need anything else, also if any of those things I bought incomatible?

I have a gas (millivolt) furnace and no 24v wiring in my house.

It’s a bit ugly, but I have this plugged into a wall outlet, which steps down voltage to 24v for a Nest Thermostat. It also has millivolt leads to connect to the switch terminals on your furnace. It was designed specifically for this sort of application.

Works perfectly so long as you don’t lose power, which happens to me frequently in the winter. My current solution to that is just a piece of wire I manually use to jump the furnace switch when I need heat. I’ll eventually replace it with a zwave thermostat that has a backup battery.

A cable tie is pretty reversible. A foot-operated dead man switch would help, safety-wise, something like this...

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9080-Billy-Switch-Deadman/dp/B000LJNJOE/

Managed to get nearly all of my printed components designed and printed on my ender 3 in PETG. Went with 0.2mm layer height and 7 shells. The corner brackets can take a hanging load of 200lbs with no deformation so I think it will be strong enough.

Think I'm going to have to go with a 310x310mm 110v bed heater. Anyone have experience controlling that with a 24v board? I'm thinking of using this.


Ogrmar SSR-25 DA 25A 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC Solid State Relay and Heat Sink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FT4VXB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hz83DbVV5T3YP

Is there any reason I couldn't use a spare pc power supply to power the board and hot end? I have a 650w laying around from an old pc build.

> something like this may be cheaper if you've got the equipment to properly crimp female spade terminals/quick connect terminals to your wire.

I do have a whole box of wire terminators and I do have those type so that would work.

>You want a relay with a nice excessive contact current rating, since DC motor loads are fairly harsh on relay contacts.

What kind of numbers should I be looking for then? The actuator draws up to 5A max. I did a search on Amazon (I try to order everything I need off there because I earn points!) and found this on but there are lots of options available:

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-General-Purpose-PYF08A-Socket/dp/B00843IV06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495645982&sr=8-1&keywords=DPDT+relay

Just need yourself a deadman switch and you're set! I have one of these for my proxxon, so much more productive to just hit a pedal and you're ready to rock.

MLCS 9080 Billy Pedal Foot Switch, Deadman Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LJNJOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L-AxDb30R8P11

Unfortunately Nest doesn't directly support reverse logic systems like yours (Y1 is used for cooling vs. yours needs to be not heating). Nest also doesn't like stranded wires.

​

Installing a simple relay at the valve would help change the logic so that you would have a W1 instead of a Y1 for heating.

Foot pedal switch from Amazon, my dude.

Rocking, thank you /u/DrkMith that's what I was hoping to hear. I have a 24vac isolation relay (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LEUJU6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_LyXQDbS071NWR) already hooked up to the stove.
Regards to the "C" wire, currently there is nothing hooked up to the nest C wire terminal. Looks like when I plug the Relay Coil wire into the "C" terminal, the Nest is throwing an error about no power to "Rc".

momentary switch $8.79 (for 25, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/

induction heater $12.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/

project case: $12.98

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107WU67M/

mosfet: $7.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J78FX9S/

power plugs $9.99 (you need only 1 pair)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YP4CP6/

test tubes $6.02 (cut in half, you'll break a couple until you get one you like)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKMWZOA/

on/off switch $6.50 (for 15, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2U8PK0/

​

in addition, you'll need some 18-20ga wire & solder, and a 12v/6a to 10a power supply

Also maybe you can ssh/vnc or use tx/rx pins with some uart usb adapter to it then use this:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/usb-to-vga-adapter?rmvSB=true

then with xrandr change screen output to that usb2vga

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K67YO8G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3G3SQGWUPUX9W is a switch I've seen used. As long as your batteries don't rhyme with schmustfires.

what about this? https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G

internal shot

Parts list:

• Pelican 1120 Case
  
  
• Induction Coil Module
  
  
  
• Mosfet
  
  
  
• Momentary Switch
  
  
• Power indicator light
  
  
• Toggle Switch
  
  
• Power Supply
  
  
• Glass Test Tube
  
  Tools:
  
  
• Glass Cutter
  
  
• Connectors I only used 2 of the prong connectors for the toggle switch
  
  STL for 3d printing:
  
  All three files
  
  Wiring diagram:
  
  Terrible MS paint Diagram

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9080-Billy-Switch-Deadman/dp/B000LJNJOE/ref=pd_sim_328_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000LJNJOE&pd_rd_r=TJS35078VTZT2MM39N06&pd_rd_w=jg3Wa&pd_rd_wg=1byKr&psc=1&refRID=TJS35078VTZT2MM39N06

this is the one I have, it's 15 amp

You might consider a Deadman Switch if you don’t already have one.

I must be confused about how switches are rated. This was is listed as a 15A rating. Which should be adequate right? Or maybe you were meaning that for the given size of the switch it could have a higher amp rating?

> adaptive controller

OMG I had no idea this device existed.. Now I want to use this footswitch as a Pharah Jet, Winston leap, or D.Va thrust. I need this!!