(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hobbies

The most important things are a tank and the ability to fill the tank to a PSI above a minimum of 80 or so. A tank makes it so the compressor doesn't have to run constantly, and creates a buffer so the air pulses of the compressor aren't transmitted to the brush where they can cause dotted rather than smooth lines. You want the compressor to be able to put out a higher PSI because you want the tank to hold enough so you can spray for longer at pressures of 60 PSI or below for longer intervals before the compressor has to refill the tank.

For model painting, most of your spraying will be best done at 20-30 PSI. Higher PSIs like 60 tend to be either for cleaning, or stuff like textile paints (i.e. T-shirt artists). The little "fishtank" compressors like the Ninja Jet can only deliver a max PSI of around 15 or so, which is on the very bottom edge of what most brushes can work with. PSIs of 15 and below are mainly used for tiny close-in detail work with highly thinned paint, and going that low works better with brushes that are designed specifically for detail, rather than "jack of all trades" workhorses.

Different brushes require different CFM (cubic feet per minute- a measurement of air volume rather than pressure), and little "fishtank" compressors are bare minimum here as well, so there will be many brushes where they'll make the brush spray poorly because they physically can't provide enough air to keep up at any pressure. A good target CFM rating for a tankless compressor is 1.5.

A tanked compressor can technically get away with less CFM, since it's not supplying the brush directly, but unless you want to have to stop painting whenever the compressor has to top up the tank, you want the compressor to have enough CFM to supply the brush WHILE also filling the tank, which means check your brush manual/documentation for its CFM, and look for a compressor that is specced over that by at least 1/2. The higher the CFM, the faster the tank will fill. Unfortunately I could not find specs for the Patriot that list CFM, but 1.5 is probably still a good start for a tanked compressor.

"Master" and other such Chinese import brand compressors are popular because people think they're cheap, but for very little extra a brand like California Air Tools will get you better QC, support, reliability, and specs. Chinese airbrushes are comparatively cheap, but the compressors aren't really, so there's not much reason to get the Chinese ones IMO.

Avoid regular hardware-style compressors unless you're painting in a very noise-tolerant environment, as even the "quiet" ones are LOUD AF. Seriously: when the descriptions/reviews say "super quiet" they mean by construction site standards, not household appliance standards.

As to fittings: if you live in a particularly dry climate (like Arizona, say), you can get away with not using a moisture trap, but even there it's good practice to have one just in case. If your climate is any more variable or humid than that, you will want a moisture trap. You can just get one from the local hardware store though: it doesn't have to be a special type. Always place the trap last in the air supply/fitting chain before the airbrush hose, so: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush. Or if using a bench block as described below: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> connecting hose-> bench block regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush.

In the US, compressors usually have 1/4 NPT fittings. In Metric countries, 1/4 BSP. These fittings are cross-compatible enough that you can use them together with teflon tape.

For hobby and fine art airbrushing, I HIGHLY recommend a lightweight hose like this over braided hoses. Braided hoses are for industrial-type settings like auto painting shops, where hoses need to be extra hard wearing.

BTW, when painting, loop the hose once around your forearm so if you accidentally drop the brush, the hose acts as a lanyard preventing the brush from hitting the floor. I feel like I'm constantly hearing horror stories about people damaging their brush by dropping it when preventing this is so easy.

A tanked compressor with come with a regulator. These are perfectly usable, but imprecise. It's not strictly necessary, but I do highly recommend using the built-in regulator as a step-down regulator, and getting a 0-30 or 0-60 PSI regulator to chain after it. I use one of these on my setup, and it makes adjusting airflow much better.

If you plan on locating your compressor directly on or under your "workbench" surface, that's all you need. If the compressor is going to be outside immediate/easy reach, it can be good to mount your regulator and moisture trap on a separate "bench block" so you can put it on/under your bench within easy reach. This is what I had to do with my setup (I mounted the regulator and moisture trap on a scavenged heavy steel bookend). In that case, you'll want/need a hose like this to go between the compressor and the regulator/filter block.

There are "extras" you can get like a quick-connectors and MAC valves, but I don't personally recommend them. If you're only using the compressor for your airbrush, you don't need quick connectors on the compressor side of the hose, and IMO quick connectors on the brush side don't actually save you time/energy as it only takes 2 seconds to unscrew a brush from the hose. If your regulator is in easy reach, a MAC valve similarly does not save you any time/effort. Both of these also add lots of bulk to the brush stem, which is undesirable if your instinct is to hold/use the brush like a pen instead of a gun. There are mini-filters that go between the hose and the brush, but I generally don't recommend them for the same reason: too much added bulk on the brush stem: it's better to to add to your main filters if you need better filter performance.

I don't have a Badger Patriot, but my understanding is that it's a good brush. I have two Badger SOTAR models, and if they're any indicator, I'd expect spray performance to be comparable to IWATA, but fit & finish to be more raw and "industrial" outside of the nozzle and needle, so a little fussier to keep clean. It should be much better and more reliable than a 20$ "Master" or "Point Zero" or whatnot.

The threads in the head assembly can be a little "gritty" on Badger brushes OOB. If that's the case, I recommend lapping them with something like Flitz to ensure a good seal. Basically just put a tiny dab of compound on the male threads, then screw them in and out about 20 times to polish off the burrs that are causing the gritty/sticky feeling. Make sure to clean the residue off thoroughly before spraying again.

For maintenance, get a roll of lint-free shop paper towels, a couple packs of interdental brushes from the local dollar store, a box of q-tips, and a box of round wood toothpicks. Use paper towels and q-tips wetted with solvent/thinner to clean the cup and needle, the interdental brushes to clean the passageways/tubes in the body, and use a wood toothpick whittled to a needle taper and soaked in thinner to clean the inside of the nozzle (don't use metal tools to clean the nozzle, as they might scratch it or flare the tip). Occasionally you'll need to inspect the needle tip or nozzle for gunk or damage, so you'll want a high-X pocket magnifier similar to this. Also a stick of wax-based lip balm to help the threads in the head assembly maintain a good air seal (apply a tiny amount to the male threads before reassembly after cleaning).

Get or make a spray-out pot. They're easy to DIY out of a margarine tub or soda/juice bottle, so although nice, it's not strictly necessary to buy one.

Get or make an airbrush stand/holder. This is not for storing the brush, but rather for having a way to set the brush down while in-in use without spilling the paint cup. Again: these are easy to DIY, so you don't have to splash cash on one unless you really feel like it.

Hope that helps!

Bandai is (IMO) the top of the Japanese heap, model-wise - well-engineered, complex but not fiddly. Their Eva offerings are OK, but where they really shine is the Gundam stuff. Currently, they're available as 1/144 HG (no inner frames, decent articulation and detail), 1/144 RG (inner frames and high detail) 1/100 Re/100 (no inner frames, decent external detail, 'niche' MS) 1/100 MG (current ones have internal frames and high detail; older ones, not so much), 1/60 PG (big scale, high detail inside and out), and some 1/144, 1/100 and other 'No Grade' (older, low-articulation, low color separation kits), and some non-Gundam stuff like VOTOMS (we'll get there in a bit). Like everything else, newer kits will have better parts layouts than older kits. You can check Dalong.net, for visual reviews, parts counts, scale comparisons, and so forth.

In HG, most of the kits from Char's Counterattack, Unicorn, Build Fighters/Try and Iron Blooded Orphans on are excellent kits, with prices running from £6 up to £35

In RG, (IMO) the best kit, in terms of detail, design, and durability is the RG Gundam Mk II AEUG, priced at a very reasonable £15.

MG run from £16.75 up (Ball is love; Ball is life) up to the mind-blowing, £95 Sazabi ver.Ka. Yes, it's pricey, but it's one of the best-engineered models you'll ever build. 37 runners of multicolored, snap-fit glory.

PGs are well out of your price range, all well over the £100 mark.

Outside the Gundamverse, Bandai also does 1/20 VOTOMS; but slightly over your cap at £65 They also do Macross kits (the current series is Delta; kits are just now being released), but their transforming requirements make them a little explodey. They also do Yamato and other spacecraft; I don't have a lot of experience with them.

Past Bandai, Kotobukiya does some excellent Armored Core (among other properties) kits; they are a little finickier fit wise, and a little pricier, coming in at around £45 and up. They work best for experienced modelers who aren't afraid of complex painting jobs. Hasegawa does non-transforming Valkyries; they will need glue and paint to look good. Hasegawa also does the love-to-get-grubby, need-glue-and-paint-and-patience Maschinen Krieger line.

Beyond that, you start getting into smaller makers, and resin kits, and imports direct from Asia, and probably out of your area of interest.

Hey there! I got into painting based on the board games I was picking up that came with plastic miniatures. This was a good starting place as the figures aren't super detailed and adding any paint to them seemed to make them better than standard board game pieces.

If the art side if things is more of the draw then I would suggest checking out a starter kit. There are a few "starter kits" out there that are good because they give you the basic necessities to jump into painting without spending tons of money.

I saw a couple good looking kits on Amazon. Here is a DND specific one:

The Army Painter Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Adventurer's Paint Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWMTNDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-QBDDbAFWJSHE

Or here is a generic fantasy one:
Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTMC49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z1BDDbC1DSWE1

I think I'd recommend the second one as it comes with a couple different figures and seems like it's ready to go right out of the box.

One cool thing about painting miniatures is that it is as complicated or as simple as you'd like. There are some great tutorial videos on YouTube to teach the basics. I learned from Sorastros painting tutorials. He does a good job of showing you the basics to get a decent looking figure and then gives you extra steps if you are extremely detailed or want to go to the next level.

As others have mentioned you can get sets of figures to paint from reapers miniatures website. Or if there is a board game out there with a theme your son likes, it may be a good place to start as most games come with 15-30 miniatures with different sizes. Including bigger monsters which can be really fun to paint. Plus you then have a fun game in which to use your art project.

Mice and mystics is a fun family cooperative game with tiny anthropomorphic mice fighting fantasy battles similar to the redwall books. I painted the figures from those and had a great time with the painting and the game.

Some other good ones are Descent 2nd edition and Starwars Imperial assault. Both come with great miniatures but are a little complex on rules and need one player to be the big bad overlord playing against the heroes.

There is also a series of dungeons and dragons board games that are cooperative and come with lots of miniatures. The quality of these isn't very high but those were my first figures.


If you want to go "whole hog" you could purchase one of the "Warhammer age of sigmar" starter boxes. These miniatures are extremely detailed and actually require you to assemble them from several pieces. They don't come with paint inused but there are entire paint kits to go along with them. Some folks really enjoy putting the GW models together, then priming and painting them. These aren't cheap so it might be best to start elsewhere but you get a lot of figures in the box. I will warn you the theme is fairly dark. Lots of blood and skulls.

Best of luck and I hope you guys enjoy!

A friend bought me this set for my birthday: https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537582745&sr=8-1&keywords=citadel+wash

I haven't found uses for all of the different colors yet, but I have used far more of them than I expected when I opened it. For example, I painted a zombie last night - I used my Vallejo buff to lay out a basic skin tone, then used the citadel flesh wash over it (which made it into a bronzed god!), then went over that with the green wash from that set. That turned the whole thing putrid, so I went back over the tops of the shoulders/head with the buff again to bring them back up to that original flesh tone, which worked out really well!

I'm starting to appreciate that investing in good paints is well worth it. I got some little eye-droppers so that I can pull out a tiny amount of paint onto my easel before painting (so that I don't waste a bunch of it), which has been pretty effective. I really like the bottles that the Vallejo paints come in, but I really like the colors of the Citadel washes.

Looking good so far! As the other chap said, i can't see any seams or nasty bits so well built!

This is where i'd go from here:

Painting wise, I'd go with thinning paints and doing several thin coats, watch this vid, i link it often. It shows how not to be down heartened with thin patchy paint on the first coat.

Get some thin tamiya masking tape to mask the edges between colours, mainly between the bottom grey and the camo upper. You can burnish it down well using a qtip or a tooth pick.

Once painted, spray it with a coat of gloss, I generally use Mr Topcoat gloss, but there are others. Make sure you mask the canopy when you spray it, else it'll fog. Then add the decals, possibly using some decal solutions like micro sol/set which really melts the decals down to the surface. Then spray again with gloss.

Once the gloss has cured, you can have a go at doing things like adding a wash, pigments, so you could make some exhaust and gun soot, streaks along the wings etc. Flory make some nice cheap water based washes that are quite forgiving for a beginner, as per their video here.

You can do some nice tricks with just using a pencil which gives the illusion of preshading, have a watch of this, it's a great video, the guy has a lovely finished model with hand painting!

When you're done, add a matte coat to it to flatten it all down, once again i use mr topcoat matte.

So this guy was the subject of lots of experimentation.

• This is my first time applying a full topcoat. I used two coats of Krylon clear matte acrylic from a spray can. Turned out pretty smooth, despite me not having a proper setup during application. It smudged up a few of my Gundam Marker panel lines, but nothing serious.
  
  
• I messed around with more metallic candy coating. I reckon my Tamiya Silver Chrome undercoat should've been applied in multiple thinner coats, rather than the single coat I brushed on. My brush strokes are pretty visible. :/
  
  
• Instead of lame foil stickers, I painted all the "lights" with Aurora glow-in-the-dark paint. The paint itself has a grainy, toothpasty texture that made it a bit difficult to apply precisely. Some very careful light sanding in between coats, and a topcoat of clear nail polish, and I think it turned out alright. The brightness of the green glow is pretty impressive in-person.
  
  
• I added a couple extra panel lines on the shield using my newly-acquired Tamiya scribing knife. They're a bit rough, but with some practice, I'm sure I could turn out some wicked panel lines on future builds.
  
  
• The radome snapped off one if the sub-arm's connector tabs, so I had to glue it on there permanently. Luckily, I grabbed the Ez Arms kit, so I have a spare backpack, in case I want to reconfigure it with different weaponry.
  
  Overall, super fun, solid build. I learned a lot working on this one.

Not sure your price points but looking on Amazon this Army painter set is a great start to get a quantity of colors you would need and can add colors when you need to, there's also a $25usd kit with less paints but enough to get started.

For brushes I get this from Michaels as it had a lot of brush sizes for different things and starting out you don't need to buy expensive brushes.

This is a great brush cleaner and depending on the figures you decide to paint you need some tools so something like this kit would be easy to have everything in one go.

Did you have any minis in mind you were wanting to get started with? And welcome, I use painting for stress relief as well and it's easy when you have a figure and are just making them look good

There was a fairly recent release of a High Grade Wing Gundam Zero kit, but it looks like he prefers MGs... I think there are a few variations of the Wing Gundam kit, such as the Proto Version, Wing Gundam(EW), Wing Zero(EW). or if you want to be the best friend ever there is the Perfect Grade Wing Gundam.

If he is a fan of the Gundam Wing series, it is worth considering Deathscyth, Deathscythe Hell, or Sandrock, which are other 'protagonist' mobile suits that fight sort-of along side the Wing Gundam.

There is also Epyon and Tallgeese, two 'bad guy' mobile suits from the same series.

If he is a fan of the original Gundam series, the RX-78 or a Zaku kit(there are many variations) would be good as well.

Also, be careful buying on Amazon if you want it to be delivered by the 10th (or shortly after). Quite a few of the sellers with good prices are based in Japan so it can take upwards of a month or more for the item to arrive if you buy it from them. It can be easy to miss that information if you're not paying attention.

My first ever kit: HG Barbatos ($13)
Other easy (and cheap) kits I'd recommend:
HGUC RX-78-2 ($11)
HG Gusion ($13)
HG Graze Kai ($11)

I'd start with those, and based on the suggested products, just go from there! Really, I just like to buy kits based on what I think looks coolest. The HG kits are all pretty beginner-friendly, so it's really up to you!! Hope this helps!! And if you haven't already, subscribe to r/gunpla. It can be a fickle-bitch-of-a-sub when it comes to upvotes (which can be discouraging for new posters), but more often than not people there are more than willing to offer helpful advice. And if you have any questions, feel free to PM me. That goes for anyone reading this who's interested in possibly getting into the hobby as well. Good luck and happy building!

Your best bet is to delete this and post it again on r/Gunpla. They have an incredibly friendly community and they'd love to help you choose a good model to start with, as well as give you some recommendations on beginner tools.


For a more immediate answerm there are three MG versions of the Wing The TV version, the EW Version, the EW Zero Version, and the Proto Zero. The Wing Zero EW is an older kit, but does have the angel-style wings if you're looking for those, and my personal preference is the Wing EW.


Also, while there's certainly nothing wrong with starting with an MG, I highly recommend with either the HG Wing, or the HG Wing Zero. They're both really modern HG's that look great out of the box, and are cheaper too.

At the end of the day, you should definitely check out r/Gunpla for any further questions, or even just to check out some builds you're interested in.

I also have H107L, and have been super happy with these batteries. They are 380 mAh, which I wanted to try before jumping to 500 mAh. I have been super happy with them. I haven't timed it, but it does feel like I get quite a bit more flying time. But of course, the main thing that makes a difference is having five of them :)

Obviously you'll also want a charger. I was going to get the same combo that /u/jackthecat53 mentioned, but some of the reviews made it sound like the charger wasn't that good. So I got a separate charger, which seems to be doing the job, but it feels super cheap, it turns out.

At any rate, I am super stoked about these batteries, and the way-improved flight time I'm able to get.

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

• Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  
• Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  
• Gundam Marker Value Set
  
• Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  
• Bamboo Skewers
  
• Alligator Clips
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
• Styrofoam Blocks
  
  I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.
  
  So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?
  
  Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?
  
  TL;DR:
  
  

• Are the items I have listed a good starting point?
  
  
• Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?
  
  
• Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?
  
  
• Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?
  
  
• Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.
  
  
• What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?
  
  
• What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?
  
  

Patience and practice. Scribe the back of plastic spoons for practice, or any other round plastic objects.

But I do recommend using proper modeling scribing tape like this one instead of Dymo tape. Dymo tape works fine for flat surfaces, but this scribing tape is a lot more flexible and will conform to curved surfaces better. They last quite a while depending on how much you scribe. I bought a roll last year and still haven't run out after 3 MG builds I scribed heavily.

Secondly, if you're using this Tamiya scriber, you might want to change it to something like the Tamiya engraver or something similar. They're much easier to control over a tool like the Tamiya scriber and you can change the blades to suit the thickness you want or need for your kit. Mr. Hobby makes a similar tool that's a bit cheaper I think, and obviously there are BMC chisels which are the top of the line. But there are cheap alternatives out there.

Honestly though, when it comes to precision tools like scribers it might be best to go out and buy the highest quality scribers/chisels you can afford. Buying lower quality tools can actually get you bad panel lines.

Ok. Gonna throw out a couple of suggestions to get you started.

First get a starter paint set.

You can get them from the local hobby shops

A few of them come with the basic supplies you need to get started.

The following ones come with a small set of paints, a brush and a miniature to paint. Often they also come with step by step instructions or online videos to watch

Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Adventurer's Paint Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWMTNDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kTC0Db25P03XH

Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Monsters Paint Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWL5JZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VVC0Db4FCQTAM

Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTMC49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vWC0DbVBYBCNP

Reaper Miniatures Master Series Paints #09970 Starter Set for Mini Figures https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07664WJ3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RXC0DbPXRB07Z

The Army Painter Kings of War Undead Miniatures Paint Set - Highly Pigmented Acrylic Model Paint Set - 10 Miniature Paints in 18ml Dropper Bottles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRYAY5R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FYC0Db3QD8HJT

The above links are only there to show you what to look for.

Citadel also has a great range of paints but they are generally more expensive and don’t come with brushes or models to paint

Please. Buy local and support our FLGS (Friendly Local Game Stores) They are the reason why so many people are into these hobby’s.

Take a little while and find a couple of Nolzurs or Reaper miniatures you like to paint. They are inexpensive and will be great pieces to start with.

However if your gonna look online Miniature Market currently is having their Black Friday sale


https://www.miniaturemarket.com/searchresults?q=black+friday+sale#/?_=1&sort.ga_unique_purchases=desc&page=1&filter.product_tag=Black%20Friday&filter.manufacturer=Army%20Painter

What ever route you’re choose let us know what you did and show us your completed work. There are a lot of super helpful people here

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
---|---
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
------------|------------
Total | $123.97

Amazon is great especially if you get fast shipping. Local hobby shops near you would also sell batteries, but they would be more expensive. However honestly, a local hobby shop most likely would sell batteries with banana plugs, and I don't think pre-made adapters that go from banana plug to XT30 exist premade, while you can easily find XT60-XT30 adapters. You will also need to buy a balance charger to charge your new batteries. These chargers make sure all the cells in your batteries are charged to equal voltages, which is important in terms of safety and increasing the longevity of your batteries. I ordered my own batteries and charger from Amazon and they arrived in a couple of days, so if you're comfortable with using Amazon there's nothing wrong with the batteries there. Heres an example of one https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485569927&sr=8-2&keywords=3s+1300mah

As a few others have mentioned, the MG Sazabi Ver. Ka is the companion kit to the Nu Ver. Ka. Right now it is $85 on amazon, which is $15 above your price range. However, $85 is a great price for the kit considering the lowest price it has been on amazon was $74. As a side note, I have to say the Sazabi Ver Ka is one of the best kits I have ever built.

Another option is the Hi-Nu Ver. Ka. It is an alternate version of the Nu Gundam (the one that you linked). From what I understand, the Hi-Nu is an amazing kit, and is currently $73 on amazon.

Keeping in the same set of kits, you can get several SD kits. They are smaller cuter versions of the full kits and are much cheaper and easier to build. Plus getting three of them will cost about $40. Here are the links:

Nu Gundam SD

Sazabi SD

Hi-Nu Gundam SD

I hope this helped. If you can find out more about which series they like, we can offer more suggestions.

I use gold, silver, and copper paint markers specifically gundam markers and sharpies

For the gundam markers I got the metallic gundam marker set: https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467993243&sr=8-1&keywords=gundam+marker+metallic

The gold and silver from that set is super useful but the other colors less so, they're okay but can be really uneven in the color they put out so I'd suggest for the other colors only for small and very few spots on a kit to lower your chances of getting inconsistent color (again though this is not a problem with the gold and silver they're great)

For the sharpies I used a metallic marker pack that I bought at Wal-Mart that has gold, silver, and bronze: https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Metallic-Permanent-Assorted-1829201/dp/B007QNWC3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467993555&sr=8-1&keywords=Metallic+sharpie+markers (It was like this pack, same markers but only one of each and it was really cheap like around $3-$5)

The sharpies are great they don't really spill like the gundam markers can but the downside to them is that they can kind of streak easily especially on bigger surfaces and they can rub off fairly easily which is great for cleaning areas where you accidentally covered, but can be a little frustrating when the color rubs away on areas that you wanted the metallic color (top coat helps protect the paint)

Here's a quick list of goodies to consider:

Testor's Model Master Glue - works on all of the kit's plastics except clear glass (use Elmer's glue for that). Be sure he scrapes any paint or chrome plating off the parts before gluing.

Tamiya Fine Surface Primer - painting is much easier with a primer coat. It gives the paint something to bite into. This can be used on the body and really any other parts that get paint. Makes it much easier to brush paint on smaller parts, too.

Model Master Black Lacquer - this will give him the base for a great matte black finish.

Model Master Flat Clear - this is a clear, non-shiny protective top coat that will take the shine off the black paint and give him a nice, matte finish.

Here is a build guide - much more than he needs, but the painting process is the same, except he'll be using a flat clear instead of gloss.

Feel free to ask any questions or send him over to /r/modelcars when he gets the kit. Have fun!

Build Pics

Setup details:Monitor: Acer KG271USpeakers: Logitech z506KB: Tecware Phantom w 3rd party keycapsMouse: Razer Mamba Elite & Razer scarab mousepadCase: SM550

Build Details:
MB: Asus ROG Strix B450-i gaming
CPU: R7 3700x
CPU cooler: Cryorig C7G + NF-A9x14
Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200Mhz CL16
PSU: Corsair SF750 Plat
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Gaming XC
Additional Case Fans: 2x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 Pwm

Notes:

1. Inserting MB before fans is easier in the SM550 (contrary to the manual)
   
2. 2x Silent Wings 3 were from previous build but they are waaay louder than the small NF-A9x14
   
3. The motherboard forces fans to go to 100% at 75 degrees, anyway to circumvent this?
   
4. Wifi/ BT antenna on the asus b450-i is kinda ugly, need suggestions for replacements
   
5. 3700x idles at ~50 and ramp up to 70-80 in games. Voltage jumps around 0.9-1.4 in idle but stays above 1.4 while gaming. Before disabling iCUE, Razer Chroma SDK, Razer Synapse and ASUS Aura sync, voltages were contantly 1.4v and up in idle
   
6. Sliger gives an option for:- internal 20pin- USB A and USB C- internal 20pin to USB A and internal type L to USB CGo for the former with an AMD mobo cos they dont have the internal type L socket for the individual type C port like on Intel mobos. Mine got shiped with the latter so I cant use my front type c port :( Need the new silverstone CP14 connected for the USB C port on the front panel or the new front panel IO for it to be useful
   
7. Didn’t add the GPU and supp mobo cables into pslate customs order! Have to wait till he takes orders again
   
   Questions:
   
   
8. Any suggestions on Wifi/BT replacements for this mobo?
   
   1. Currently looking at this antenna from huacam and this unbranded antenna
      
9. Any way to raise the thermal cap of the mobo to more than 75 degrees to stop fans ramping up so often?
   
   1. Stop gap measure is to set case fans to motherboard temperature, but under gaming loads CPU goes up to 80 degrees yikes gonna play more with fan curve
      
   2. Using noctua silent fan adapter works to cap max volume but ramping up is still an issue
      
   3. Noctua fan controller looks abit too big to fit into the case and cablemanagement would be quite messy
      
   4. Tried installing AI suite III and it crashed my com =/ don't really want to pay for software like argus monitor either
      
10. Are the temps and voltages for the CPU normal? Been getting conflicting/ confusing answers on the r/AMD threads
    
    1. TLDR they are normal
       
    2. Tried reducing PPT but temps and voltages are still similar, will look more into it
       
11. Will Sliger cases sell their internal 20pin to USB A and USB C header separately? (SOLVED)
    
    1. They do but will prioritize sending out current case orders first
       
       Overall pretty happy with the build quality and how the theme turned out. Black/gray with orange highlights :) Eagerly waiting the NF-A12x25 and NF-A9x14 chromax fans!!! (If we DO get them lol)
       
       (edit: added more info)(edit 2: added responses and findings)

I’m a tricomb guy, grab a cheep scope off of amazon, https://www.amazon.ca/KINGMAS-Microscope-Jewelry-Magnifier-Jeweler/dp/B00AQAANDS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=mini+microscope&qid=1567317008&s=gateway&sprefix=mini+micr&sr=8-5 Or search mini microscope and pick one

This one is 12$ Canadian and works perfect for this, the tricombs will start clear and then start to get cloudy and then start to turn Amber. I usually check the middle of the main cola on the plant and chop when it’s approx 60/40 Amber to cloudy. it’s a personal preference thing as the high changes depending on ratio. You should be able to find some you tube videos fairly easily that’ll help. The scope is also a must for identifying some pests as well.
Great looking plant, good luck!
I seem to have linked the wrong scope, you should get at least a x45 sorry about that

A great place to start is the mini painting starter sets by Reaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Reaper-Miniatures-08906-Learn-Paint/dp/B00NTMC49G

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N458GBK/

They're not too expensive, and they are a great intro to mini painting. They also come with pieces to practice techniques on, and a lot of paints to work with as well. I'd get those, and maybe some brushes.

I also would recommend a wet palette to keep paints wet between painting sessions, magnifying glasses to help see, and a mini holder.

I also got these brushes, which seem to be working well for me, and have a mix of useful ones.

I like these. http://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Citadel-Shade-Paint/dp/B00KOD3FM8 but always with the knowledge that I can make my own with about a 1:8 ratio of any paints that I have. Use the color wheel as your guide. Cool colors recede while warm colors pop out. Try experimenting with different colors and see what effects you get, and what makes you happy. On faces I use a bit of blue in the shadows to help them recess, while using red in other places to help it come out.

Also, I typically repeat 3 and 4 multiple times.

It is hardly difficult, it simply takes planning and a careful hand. (do not use a hobby knife!!!) I'm all for doing whatever works for you but a hobby knife would be a no go, it will deform the plastic and not actually remove it. A chisel is the way to go. If you are serious about it, I love BMC chisels.

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/list/2119/0/1?word=bmc

Otherwise, Samuel decal posted some pictures of alternative chisels recently that are cheaper.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10153623678411897.1073741978.382602901896&type=3

and

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10153623672411897.1073741977.382602901896&type=3

I have not tried either but they look to be good quality.

The next step down would be a Tamiya scriber for straight lines

http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74091-Plastic-Scriber-II/dp/B002KKBVTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451349163&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+scriber

and a Trumpeter scriber for tight corners

http://www.amazon.com/Trumpeter-Panel-Line-Engraver-Tool/dp/B001JJT9DU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451349199&sr=8-1&keywords=trumpeter+scriber

These two are a super cheap way to go, not cheap as in bad but you certainly get what you pay for in control and uniformity.

As far as stencils go, I either make my own from acetate or just draw my design directly on to the model and use Dymo tape as a straight edge.

In our Wiki we have a list of retailers listed under "Shopping". As a general suggestion from me, Amazon (with Prime shipping, otherwise it might come from Japan, taking a few weeks to a month to arrive) is usually the easiest way to get your first kit. Figure out international shipping once you get into the hobby.

As a beginner, it would be a good idea to check out the rest of the wiki for some useful info before you start.

Also, the PG is considered pretty bad. The MG and RG kits are fairly well regarded. The old HG is outdated but not too bad, might be your best bet for a first kit.

Another option is the SDEX if you like chibi proportions.

The charge time really isn't all that bad. It'll charge back up in 10-15 minutes. I really thought it'd bother me but I'm totally okay with it. This is the perfect starter copter to learn how to fly these things.

If it's really a deal breaker and you're okay with spending more, one of the cheapest way you're going to get significantly improved flight time would probably be a Hubsan X4, a 5 pack of batteries, a simple charger, and a prop guard for about $70 before tax.

I'd call that step 2 in the hobby though and would absolutely recommend the Cheerson CX-10 as step 1.

Well, the only things you really need to build a kit are a pair of hobby clippers and motivation. Everything else is optional, depending on how much effort you wanna put into making your model look as best as possible(hell, I used nail clippers of all things with my first gunpla because I didn't want to invest in tools before actually building one for myself and knowing if this was a hobby I wanted to pursue or not).

For this one I actually got a modeling toolkit, some Gundam markers for panel lining and a small cutting mat through amazon(although you might be able to find them at local hobby stores as well). I can't really speak for other tools, but these ones worked pretty well for me. If you're worried about costs you can always start with just some basic tools and slowly build your toolbox up from there as you build more models. Hopefully you have as much fun with your first gunpla as I had with mine!

P.S. Remember I'm also a newbie so take all of this with a grain of salt

Thanks! Honestly I just kind of winged it. The parts that are rusty were done with the Sophisticated Finishes rust set. It's a 2 step process. You paint the area you want rusted with an iron solution, then paint it with a bluish watery substance that actually rusts it.
Everything else was done with these. Most of what you see is the orange rust. The seats have the gray, which I think does a good job replicating aged vinyl. All off the engine parts are covered in the oil stain, along with the inside of the windows.
And, of course, a good old brown/black wash on everything.

Looks great! If you want to get those straight, freehand lines nice and crisp, I would suggest this product. I use it on my Iron Warriors to give those perfect, straight hazard lines. It also won't peel up any paint when you remove it like other tapes are reported to do.

I bought this LED lamp with a magnifying glass back in January and, up until last week, it’s been my only source of light besides whatever is overhead in the room.

Brightech LightView Pro Flex... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K10XA1O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This lamp is great. However, I found that because it was so bright, it was basically the only source of light my res could see on the model and it cast pretty harsh shadows, making it difficult to really paint well and straining my eyes.

So I purchased this lamp last week as a “fill” light:

RMJ Dimmable LED Desk Lamp... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714KST8G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And it’s been such a wonderful addition. The “study” setting is perfect daylight hue and it fills my workspace with enough light so that I’m not straining my eyes and have relatively even lighting over my models while I paint.

Hope that helps.

I used these:

Makerfire 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RP-SMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7E-8AbSHNSN3C

Way better than the standard ASRock one on my Z370 Fatal1ty and much smaller, too. Don’t ask me how that’s possible. 😂

5GHz is especially good with these. Ask me tomorrow and I’ll check what my link speeds are, if it’ll help. FWIW, I’m behind a 6’ tall mirror and two interior walls, plus a hallway. In total, maybe ~25 feet away from a Synology RT-2600ac with both bands active on a 100Mbps Spectrum package.

>black is fine I use citadels shade "nuln oil" this can make any paint job look 2x better

Can a black wash be used on any color? How do you use a black wash on a light-colored figure?

I see that the Citadel Shade Nuln Oil is $8.60, but I could get a batch of 8 Citadel washes for $34.50. Would you recommend the batch of washes, or is the black all I need for a beginner.

I also have the Army Painter Strong Tone Quick Shade that I have been using, but it is a pretty dirty shader, only good for all my zombies I think.

tamiya ts 80

​

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TS-80-Clear-Spray-100ml/dp/B000ZVO3YS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tamiya+top+coat&qid=1568355627&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

is that a good alternate top coat? mr top coat is nowhere in stock... and apparently the super clear is lacquer based and no good over decals and panel liners? so that leaves me the taimya one? is that ok to use?

I use the Lightview Flex.

It's not the cheapest in the world but it is very bright and you have the magnifier if you need it. The flexibility of the gooseneck is great and the desk clamp is quite strong. The weighted base has good heft and doesn't move on the desk.

The downside is that the gooseneck isn't extremely long, so that could be an issue for you. I have no problems due to how I brace my elbows on my desk.

That is a good recommendation above, but the best bang for your buck would be this tool set.

http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74016-Basic-Tool-Set/dp/B000BMYWXI/

It's got cutters, a knife and a file, along with some screwdrivers if you ever build Action Bases.

As for starter MG's, I'd suggest the MG Aile Strike Ver RM.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Strike-Gundam-Action/dp/B00C0NRVKW/

It comes with its own stand and usually sells for around 40-50$.

If you're not a seed fan then you can't go wrong with the RX-78-2 version 3.0.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q/

It doesn't come with an action base but its still one of the best MG's out there.

From my own experience with Gundam markers, they usually dry in a few minutes, but I only use them for small detail painting. They do not need primer, but a topcoat will help protect them as they can get scratched fairly easily. The Basic and Metallic sets are both very useful, along with the three panel lining markers.

Ooooh thanks! I'll have to watch that video! I just ordered the Citadel set as well. I'll do a couple of side-by-sides and post the results. Hopefully this weekend, since I'm still waiting for them to come in the mail.

Thanks for giving me the motivation!

Yeah. Here's an Amazon link to the basic games workshop set.
Amazon

Essentially the paint is super watery and will suck itself down into the crevices of a model. It's nicknamed liquid talent because it just instantly and drastically improves your model.

I've used shades on a 0.1mm layer height print before. It's usually fine, any bigger layer height and it starts getting wonky because if the nature of 3d printing. It makes rings around the model. It looks like you should be fine though.

That thing looks awesome. How did it fly? My first "multirotor" was this micro heli that I got it from Amazon in 2012 when they were first starting to put gyros in the micros. The little guy still flies really great too. Since I've watched quadcopter tech advance so quickly I wonder how much better the helis have become since 2012. I haven't heard anything about them in recent years. I'll have to look into them and see if they've gotten into FPV now.

Hey, I’m also pretty new to the hobby. I picked up one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DWMTNDJ/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AU2FNATHSFHNB. And I have been pretty happy with it. For some reason my local hobby shop had it a little cheaper than amazon so if you have a store around you that might sell this stuff I would check it out. It comes with a decent selection of good paint, #1 brush and a miniature for you to get started.

Your receiver has to be the same protocol as your transmitter.
The battery you chose must have the same plug as your ESC (I use XT60, probably the most common). You can actually solder new connectors onto your battery or ESC but this can be a bit dangerous if you're inexperienced.
Those are pretty much the only two compatibility issues you may run into. Use a known powerplant (motor/prop combo) if you're inexperienced as pairing motors and props can get a bit complicated (kV, prop, power, battery voltage all are factors). The 2200kv turnigy motor with a 6x4 prop plugged into a 30A esc on 3 cells is tried and true.
For example these would work together: motor, ESC, Battery.
Good luck.

A few particular items of interest from Amazon :

• Dungeons & Dragons Starter Set (Six Dice, Five Ready-to-Play D&D Characters With Character Sheets, a Rulebook)
  
• Dungeons & Dragons Core Rulebooks Gift Set (Special Foil Covers Edition with Slipcase, Player's Handbook, Dungeon Master's Guide, Monster Manual, DM Screen)
  
• Art & Arcana : The artistry of D&D through the years.
  
• Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Adventurer's Paint Set
  
• Cup of Wonder / Cup of Illusion / Cup of Plenty : 5 Sets of 7 Premium gaming dice (Note: I purchased the Cup of Plenty for my group last year, with each member & DM getting a set of dice & the DM keeping the cup/box it all came with)
  
• Do you or your friends have children? 1-2-3's of D&D / A-B-C's of D&D
  
• Mimic Plush Dice Bag. Not your speed? How about an Owlbear instead?!
  
• Do you or your friends use the various D&D Card Sets? Get them a Spell Book to hold the cards!
  
• What's the Holidays without receiving socks?
  
  A few items & vendors from Etsy :
  
  
• PaolasPixels : A great assortment of pins, clothes, and stickers for all RPG types (Note: I have several of their pins in my collection)
  
• TheGrumpyUnicornCo : Enamel pins of all sorts for DND & other RPG.
  
• AetherwoodGaming & EldritchArtsUS : Dice boxes big enough to hold one full set dice. Want you fave set to travel in style? Here you go!
  
• AdventurersWoodworks : Specialty dice, dice trays, and other trinkets for your gaming pleasure (Note: I have their Skull & Moon Flower dice sets. Amazingly beautiful)
  
• LoftAndLegend : D20 Bath Bombs. After a long day of adventuring, sometimes you need a hot bath, you know?
  
• SilverwingArmoury : Keep your notes & character stats in style.
  
• MimicryMetals : High quality productions of D&D items. (Note: I attempted to convince my wife to let me have the Ring Of The Ram as my wedding band, but failed my "Persuasion" check)
  
• Level1Gamers : Gaming themed coffee mugs and other trinkets. These are the guys that made the Mug Stat Card Mug.

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Wing-Gundam-Version/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=pd_lpo_21_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z7C2JSX8Y465QD7G8Q0X
Your love of wing is as great as mine this is a solid and beautiful rendition of the Wing Zero so I would recommend this or this
https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-GUNDAM-VER-Ka-Master-Action/dp/B00030EUTY

I'm planning on top coating some HGs. I'm also using gundam markers for small details and the pour type markers for panel lines. Which top coat would be better: tamiya, mr. hobby top coat, mr. premium top coat spray, or mr. super clear, or maybe anyone have other recommendations?

MG Jesta. Amazing articulation, can use an LED, Just an all around amazing grunt suit kit. Also Amazon has it on sale with Prime for only $47. This really is a no brainier :D

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Jesta-Model-Kit/dp/B00B596V6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405955484&sr=8-1&keywords=mg+jesta

Or if you want a great upgrade to an old school kit, get RX-78-2 MG 3.0, $45 with prime.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405955604&sr=8-3&keywords=mg+jesta

This kit looks great, and it IS great! I have it on my shelf, and it's really solid, although it doesn't stand out much.

I think Jobby's torso issue is only his kit, or at least I haven't heard about it until now- That part is incredibly solid on my kit.

You can get this kit on Amazon!

Tools like this or this are used for scribing custom panel lines. Just sand the lines after scribing to flatten the raised plastic that resulted from the scribing.

If you check out the Repository of useful links and threads on the sidebar, you'll find almost all the answers to questions you'll have.

EDIT: There's also this Big List of Gunpla Tutorials & Resources with tutorials to everything. It used to be in the repository, I think, but may have been removed. Anyway, good thing I bookmarked it before. Enjoy!

Well, if you're thinking about doing it get some mylar paper from goulet and go slow and use super cheap nibs. You will break your first 4-16 nibs.

I personally like to do it on my dremel at low speeds using a finer grit spinny thing :) The way you do it is keep a vision of what the nib should look like at a very detailed level and just go slow and light with the grinding and check it with a loupe often. I use a 60x loupe (this one, it's amazing) and check the shape of the nib OFTEN. After every few seconds of work I'll check it till it's in the shape I want, then I'll take some fine files and smooth it out a bit with different sticks between 3200 and 12000 grit. I'll usually move up from 3200 and just keep going until I'm on the 12000 grit stick. I usually have the nib I'm working on in the pen by the stick tuning part but I do take out the nib when I'm using the dremel.

Now that I've gotten pretty proficient at it, it usually only takes about 5 minutes to do a nib unless it's below a F, in which case it'll take up to 10 since you really have to go slow with those because you want to keep as much material on the nib as possible, but just shape it into a finer point where the paper touches it.

Thank you. I will say that it definitely helps to practice a lot and have good materials. Learning how to highlight a face is a must and there are a ton of videos and tutorials about that. I recommend a good set of brushes (about 2-3 different sizes), I use thePsycho by Army painter and I have used it for the last 2 years for those fine details. I am also beginning to use a wet palette which helps create layers, I usually do about 3-4 different shades. Finally, using a set of magnifying lenses helps a lot. I can give more details, but those are the biggest tips I can give.

Album Link

This is the Velka 3 v1.1 in Grey

---
This is my very first SFFPC build. I am coming a Fractal Design Nano S. This Velka 3 is Tiny! I did some small amount of basic modding to make it look like I wanted it. I replaced the 16mm Anti-Vandal switch that came with it for one that has an led for power. I wrapped the psu cables in an automotive cloth wiring harness tape so you couldn't see the bright psu cables from the original. I taped over the Velkase Fans to hide the colors of the stickers and cables as well. I also used the small quadcopter antennas.

---

Specs:

| Part | Price | Purchased at |
|:-----------|------------:|:------------:|
| Ryzen 5 1600| $65| hardwareswap
| MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC | $130| Amazon
| 8GB x 2 Crucial Ballistix Sport 3000MHz | $66| Amazon
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC 6GB | $110| hardwareswap
| FSP 400w Flex ATX PSU | $90| Amazon
| Reeven Vanxie 34mm Tall | $20| Newegg
| Samsung EVO 970 250GB| ($70 otherwise)| Previous Build
| Velka 3 Grey| $80| Velkase
| 2 x VF-8010-PWM 80mm x 10mm| $20| Velkase
| Velkase-LiHeat 300mm Riser | $40| Velkase

---

Notes

Replacement Power Switch

• For the Replacement LED I chose this one from Amazon in White color. I snagged this to create the harness. Using Shrink tube and Cable Sleeving and some solder to attach it to the switch.
  
  
• For those of you interested in the space that the PSU has heres a close up with how close it to the power switch.
  
  

  CPU Cooler
  

• I chose this cooler just to try. This was way before the Black Noctua NH-L9 Released. I replaced the fan with a Velkase fan because its all black and has the same dimensions and also has a higher RPM. So far the temps have been good. My CPU isn't stressed while gaming (1080p 60hz). I think I turned on game mode in the bios and the CPU is at 3.4Ghz on all cores. The cooler is rated for 65W TDP.
  
  

  Case Fans
  

• For those interested in the 80mm x 10mm clearance heres a photo of close they come with the motherboard
  
  

  Velka 3 Sidenotes
  

• So just a small side note the case came with plenty of M3 Screws BUT I noticed that some are different styles. There are two types. Ones that are longer, and have a smaller phillips socket. And ones that are shorter and a larger phillips socket. The shorter ones actually are shallower and they don't protrude on the sides of the case as much. I used these for the exterior panels. The longer ones I used for mounting all the internals as they had more "bite" to hold everything together
  
• It also came with a prototype of the pico psu blanking plate for the PSU. Response from Michael on this exactly "the PSU cover is just an experimental part with limited use, so it is not mentioned anywhere. If the direct plug in HDPLEX 200 (not yet tested) physically fits into the case, then the PSU cover can be used with it. A PicoPSU from MiniBox can be used as well, but only if you correctly drill two small holes around the smaller circular opening in the plate."
  
• One thing I want to point out is with my particular case it had a blemish on the side panel. Not sure why but its noticeable when looked at closely. There's one on both sides in the same spot but this on is the most noticeable and more noticeable in person

What is the best set of things to start out with weathering? For instance, is this a good set? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M66FM86/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1XI8QH3DQRFDA&colid=3BT0B9K6OKTMQ

What are good brushes or other items I would need to weather my sets? Thanks a lot!

The model is of Minsc and Boo, and it comes with the Nolzur's Marvelous Pigments Adventurer's Set. It's like a D&D/Army Painter colab for newbies (like me!).

The model is pretty cool tho.

Alright. So. I'm just starting to watch Gundam, and started with Mobile Suit. I really dug Rambal Ral's suit for some reason, and I think I'd like it to be my first build. But to someone who has never done this, it's really intimating. I know I'd want to go for the HG kit here as a first time build? And I was looking at this tool set here. Seem like a solid plan so far? And about how long does a usual kit take, give or take on experience? I know this sounds like a "please solve my problems for me" post, but there's a lot to take in. Help, please?

GSI Creos AMS 121 Gundam Metallic Marker Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IeLzDbZJT2579

I used all the colors but the silver (was worried about the metallic red but pleased with how it turned out), and I would highly recommend these. Not too bad price wise about $10 for the set.

As far as weathering goes, these will do wonders: https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Weathering-Master-6-Sets-Japan/dp/B00M66FM86

Super easy to use and look great.

Quick question, as a complete noobie to Gunpla, I was wondering if these would be the appropriate sprays to use for top coating, both for the gloss, so I could pannel line, and then do the decaling and weathering and obviously then the matte coat.

So would these work for the gloss and matte coats, or are there better options out there. Obviously price isnt to much of an option, as long as its the best bang for the buck.

The first one I've found is the gloss its by Mr.Hobby, called Mr.Super Clear Gloss and the second one was the matte final coat by Tamyia Color called Tamiya Color TS80 Flat Clear

So this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681521&sr=8-4&keywords=paint+wash

or this?:

https://smile.amazon.com/Nontoxic-Miniature-Washes-Dropper-Bottles/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681988&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=army+painter+wash&psc=1

For primer is there a benefit to using paint on, vs spray? I think the bases will be separate from my pieces. So I would think a spray can of like, white, grey, and black would be my best bet?

I use this, the base could use a little more weight, but all in all it is great.

Brightech LightView Pro Flex 2 in 1: Magnifying Glass LED Lamp - Lighted Magnifier with Stand & Clamp - for Desk, Sewing, Table - Bright Light for Rea https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K10XA1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hJbqsNahY9meL

1. for Primer, I have been using the Tamiya Fine Gray spray can. This works great, as the particles are smaller than hardware store or craft store primers and preserve the details of the pieces. Other hobby primers work well too, such as the Mr. Surfacer line but I personally have not used those. Refer to this primer guide for which color you should choose for priming.
   
2. You typically use a gloss black coat if you intend to bring out shiny / glossy layer of the paint on top. If your end game is a flat / matte topcoat, I would say this step is unnecessary. I have NOT observed a significant difference in color between a build with glossy black base and gold top paint layer versus. just a gold top paint layer when I matte coat it at the end.
   
3. Your ordering is CORRECT. For the number of layers, my go to procedure:
   

• Prime in 2 coats. I do a flash coat (quick spray bidirectional, there will be missing spots). Wait for 15 minutes and come back to do a 2nd coat to completely fill in. Wait a whole day.
  
• Spray desired paint layer, 2 coats. Same idea as the primer.
  
• Glossy coat to preserve the paint. I handbrush Pledge / Future Finish on and it works, but I am very patience with this step as I can overcoat and this will fill in the panel line. One thin coat is sufficient
  
• Decal hell. Every kit, every time.
  
• I top coat with Krylon Matte Finish. You can use the hobby stuffs like Testors Dullcote or Tamiya Flat Clear or Mr. Hobby Top Coat Flat, but I am a student with a part time job and these damn cans are damn expensive. The Krylon works sufficiently for me, I just have to spray it more carefully than the hobby ones.
  
  Good luck!

Battery: Floureon 2 Packs 3S 11.1V 2200mAh 25C RC is too heavy and too weak. Your 4 motors + 5045 triblades will draw up to 24Ax4=~100A of current and battery nominal capability is up to 2,2x25C=55A. Look for 1300mAh 45C or even better 65C.
For instance this Tattu battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/
Or even better this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9SYC0/
These batteries are really good ones, will give you more punch than Floureon ones.

FC: Naze32 is a bit yesterday. If it is your first quad then probably you can use it. Better use SP Racing F3, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Makerfire-Flight-Controller-SPRacing-Deluxe/dp/B01JS1Z38A

If you're painting a model kit, try your best to acquire paints and topcoats specifically for plastic/plastic models. If you're in the US, Testors, Tamiya, and even Krylon can work as good flat coats and each brand has a respective gloss and semigloss spray.

I’m also over 40 here and my eyesight just tanked as well. I recommend this instead of a mounted magnifying lens.

YOCTOSUN Head Mount Magnifier... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H8808H6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Comes with several lenses of increasing magnifying strength and doesn’t get in the way of handling things. They look goofy but I’m well behind caring at this point.

Hi there! Great gift idea. My gf actually picked out my first kit for me recently and chose a HG Barbatos model for my studio. Definitely would recommend that. http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Orphans-Barbatos-Iron-Blooded/dp/B0129DW0WG

From a pure aesthetic perspective, the MG Shin Musha Gundam is fucking DOPE! Nothin screams wifey material more than buying yo man a robot samurai lol... Def next on my buy list. http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-BAN153804-Shin-Musha-Gundam/dp/B0018P09QQ

collecting robot action figures. Cheapest way to get into it is buying kits you put together yourself, most of which are models from the Gundam sci-fi universe. There are a lot of factors that go into collecting including articulation, color accuracy, stability, materials, and price point, but that's not terribly relevant in the beginning!

if you want to try it out, all you need is a pair of wire cutters or an xacto knife! I'd recommend the high grade Gundam Barbatos or the high grade Burning Gundam. High grade means smallish and easy to put together in an afternoon, so for less than the cost of snacks and a movie you can put together your own little shelf buddy.

I was able to assemble my entire core set plus 11/12 expansions with these items:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N6ODS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D1JYXKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The clippers are still going strong and the files work nicely. I have no mold lines or excess glue on my minis and I filled in some gaps with green stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Strip-RPR-75006/dp/B001BR8AU8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1498688095&sr=8-10&keywords=Green+stuff

You can usually find it a bit cheaper. Hopefully, that helps!

I can relate to that. I've never really had a SAL package go missing or get damaged, but its worth the peace of mind to go for the more expensive options on more valuable purchases.

I actually purchased my Sazabi Ver Ka locally (even though it was 60$ more expensive) because I was mortified that the box would get dinged up due to its sheer size, so I wanted it to travel as small a distance as possible.

I purchased this set a while ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M66FM86/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been very happy with them and the results I get from them. It's also a nice selection of colors/tones, though of course you can just buy one of the cases instead of this entire set to save money.

I feel you. I just suggested them to another user, but you should check out these. They come with a panel lining marker, and the metallic ones are great for accents and the like.

It's not necessarily beefy, but what about the Gran-Daddy gundam himself? RX-78-2 http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417067802&sr=8-2&keywords=Gundam+MG

Or try the Sandrock http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Sandrock-Master-Grade/dp/B005ED3PAU/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1417067871&sr=8-24&keywords=Gundam+MG

Good luck in choosing your kit!

In my experience those two finger turning adjustable types are garbage. They never last for very long and are dificult to manage.

I purchased these two years ago and it's all I've eve used.

[1] (https://www.amazon.com/KINGMAS-Pocket-Microscope-Jeweler-Magnifier/dp/B00AQAANDS/ref=pd_sim_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KEDEDRG711YM9A2DM25Y) 60x LED and adjustable. Is great for looking at trichomes.

2 40x fixed. Is great for everything else when you don't need to get as up close and personal.

Can anyone tell me if this top coat would be the appropriate kind to use for a gunpla? This would be my first time top-coating and want to make sure I get the right stuff! Wanting to find a good "matte" top coat as been recommended on this sub to me.

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Master-Action/dp/B002BRUGI6/ref=sr_1_5?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1485290673&sr=1-5&keywords=master+grade+gundams

these are just my personals as they are fairly light weight in terms of armor and weapons but they do great. i especially recommend the 3.0 but its abit fragile but it poses, articulates and has alot of movies pieces.

Well, good news, you can get them in HG! :)

​

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Orphans-Barbatos-Iron-Blooded/dp/B0129DW0WG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hg+barbatos&qid=1555211105&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Barbatos-Blooded-Orphans/dp/B018TGV2TE/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=hg+barbatos&qid=1555211105&s=gateway&sr=8-9

I would honestly buy them separately. A helping hands like this one, and a lamp like this.

Gundam Paint Markers - https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RVZRSVSK61CSZE7G2MTB

I used these to gold plate an A-wing. Not the most precise, but looks pretty good. I'll add a picture when I get home.

If you are looking at kits, here are two versions of the original Gundam:

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=rx-78-2+gundam&qid=1575079694&sprefix=rx-78-2&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-RX-78-2-Gundam-Real-Grade/dp/B003KX5OXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=rx-78-2+gundam&qid=1575079764&sprefix=rx-78-2&sr=8-2

The MG is larger and more complex, the HG is smaller. Both are good, detailed kits! And those are just the Gundam itself - there are lots of other kits from the original series, too! For instance, the Zaku I And Zaku II, Gouf, Gelgoog, GM, and more. If you want some more suggestions, you might try the r/gunpla subreddit, too.

Edit: You could also just look for kits labeled HGUC - that means High Grade Universal Century. High Grade is a type of model, Universal Century is sort of the “main” Gundam series - so, the original series and its sequels.

TURN THAT FROWN UPSIDEDOWN, FRIEND! D: ---> :D

I think this rc heli would cheer you up! :3

> walkera ladybird prop

Get these(amazon or banggood) and the frame that I linked.It will fly way,way better then with that poly frame that you have.Guaranteed!

Here is the female connecter needed for your board.Amazon/banggood also has the 380/400 mah,which I think is the best size for your build.

http://www.rc-drones.com/HubsanWalkera-Style-battery-Connector-MaleFemale_p_1049.html

http://www.amazon.com/Keenstone-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00S8VEH3E/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462406040&sr=1-2&keywords=380+mah

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462406040&sr=1-4&keywords=380+mah

There are a few different ways to fill seamlines, with my preference being Tamiya Thin Plastic Cement. Filling seams should only be done if you want to paint, as you get to paint over the filled seam. As for masking, any small measuring tool is helpful. In addition, good Masking Tape can also help.

What kind of capacity do you need? Maybe buy or make a 3sXp Li-Ion battery that has however many in parallel you want to fulfill your physical size/capacity requirements.Great Scott has a really great video on him making this but you can buy pre made packs too like these:
(Note that with any of these packs you will need a balance charger or a BMS that has charging function)
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=3s&qid=1572316137&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/FLOUREON-Packs-1500mAh-Battery-Truggy/dp/B074PPMFMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_24_sspa?keywords=3s+lithium+ion&qid=1572316188&sr=8-24-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUSEcwSDg5RFlGQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRJZD1BMDI1NzY2ODIxM0IwTURRTlU3MlcmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDg3MjQwNjM4VkJGREQ1QVpNQTQmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I started recently and did a lot of research.

I like Vallejo paints. Something like a set from Amazon is $40 and you get 16 colors. Depending on your paint color needs you can get game colors or a normal set.

Game Color Intro Set (16) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000PHCTRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k97VCbDME38CK

Vallejo Basic USA Colors Paint Set, 17ml https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B009162PWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I-7VCbD1ETA5H

That is unless you're painting terrain. Use craft store paint on terrain. You can paint with craft store paints if your on a real tight budget. But I think it's significantly more challenging.

Also I recommend getting a nul shade from citidel. Don't get any of their paint pots, they are a pain.

I got this set and found it very handy to have all s
The washes I could want. Used some odd colors on my dragon and fire fox.
Games Workshop Citadel Shade Paint Set https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lc8VCbEMS1X69

Hope that helps!

IIRCC, Tamiya has only a glossy clear spray. The only ones I know are these:

• Testors Flat Spray
  
• Testors Glosscote Spray
  
• Tamiya Clear Spray
  
  I've used Tamiya rattle cans in the past, and they are pretty fool-proof. And the Testors products are used by a lot of people, so I doubt they're much harder to use.

What you're noticing is oxidation from the ambient air. It may give it a bit more sheen, but you could use a clear flat spray lacquer such as this to minimize the erosion over time.

As far as bringing it back - You could tumble polish the brass, but that would more or less restore it to it's unfired state, not fired. As such, leaving it as is would be my recommendation.

I bought one of these a few weeks ago and it's so much fun. Great gift. I'm ordering one for my boyfriend this week.

I ended up buying these tiny antennas from Amazon. Performance has been the same as the stock antenna so far, but my PC is in the same room as my router so signal strength isn't really a problem for me. Aesthetically, they are perfect in that they are so tiny as to be basically hidden amongst the cables plugged in the back.

You're probably looking for PS-55 or TS-80 from Tamiya as well. I personally never used these but I asked a mate I know and he said they're great

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300087030-Masking-Tape-6mm/dp/B0000WRZZQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1479390004&sr=8-7&keywords=tamiya+masking+tape
Use this / they also have a tape for curves. It helps a ton and has low adherence so you don't have to worry about pulling paint up. I really enjoy the profile and the model itself looks cool to me but it's all preference. I do have to say it was the easiest tag to put together that I've done.

After you finish building and doing the primary paint, put on a coat of Future (that is the brand)- it will be shiny, but this will help protect the model and let you decal and weather it easier. After you get the decals on and your weathering (including panel lines), you can go shiny with another coat of Future, or go matte (normal) with a spray matte finish ($few at your local model store, or here is the one I like).

This is slightly different from what you have above, but if you're using a cell phone and you want to get macro shots, give one of these a try. You can just hold it up to the back of your cell phone camera lens, and then directly over the coin. It's great for getting macro shots of specific parts of a coin.

Something like this? I love these things.

Yes, I use Tamiya weathering kits (the kit with burnt red and oil stain is good for droids/ships and the kit with sand/mud works well for troopers)

https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Weathering-Master-6-Sets-Japan/dp/B00M66FM86/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1N6QTK4IN8LCH&keywords=tamiya+weathering+kit&qid=1571267105&sprefix=tamiya+we%2Caps%2C608&sr=8-1

How many Gunpla kits have you built? If you think your skilled enough, and want one that is kick-ass and has a ton of pieces, check out the MG Sazabi Ver. Ka, or the MG Sinanju OVA. You could do a lot of cool custom stuff with the Sazabi. This one is really well done. You could also do something like Syd's custom Sinanju

Oh no, you didn't get extra batteries!. If I may, let me pass down some wisdom:

• Your first instinct will to fly it as high as you can, ignore this instinct or you will be buying another one very soon
  
• Take it outside and try to make it hover. Once you can make it hover, try landing it on a specific item (tree stump, electrical generator box, etc).
  
• As soon as possible, get comfortable with higher rate mode (press down on the right stick)
  
• Once you can hover and land, work on flying it in circles. Practice flying it with the nose towards you, it's very very hard at first.
  
• Once you can do circles, move on to figure eights.
  
• Now you're ready for a 250mm size quad like the ZMR 250 or the WarpQuad

The fourth attempt was worth it. Eyes look great!

Testor's / Model Master matte varnish. - Hit 'em with summa dat!!

This set of shaders right here is the most important thing you can buy. If you don't want to invest that much you can just buy Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade individually and be fine.

If you already have acrylic paints you can just use what you have - just make sure to thin them until they are almost as thin as milk. Thick paint will cover up detail.

You will also want Krylon Matte finish or Testor's Dullcote matte finish to seal the mini.

I recommend watching Sorastro's painting guides, his Zombicide series starts from the most basic techniques.

I know we all have our own preferences but I still think Lusterless Flat Lacquer is the best matte finish out there.

So i just got back from Asia and got a haul of HG and one RG and MG. I'm just getting back into Gunpla after a 10~year hiatus, and want to take a step up in to beginner level painting/panel lining/etc instead of just straight builds.

Some 1/144s I got that I want to start working on:
HGBF X-1 FullCloth (the one Lucas used in BFT)
V2 AB
HG Wing0
HGBF Wing Honoo? (Its a red.... Wing gundam?)
HD X Divider

I dont know the first thing about painting, and have watched some tutorials here and on youtube.

1. Will the Gundam Colour markers be enough for beginner level of painting and cover most generic colours? I do have painting brushes/trays from my wife's painting tools.
   
   Gundam Marker basic set
   
   Gundam Marker Metallic
   
   
2. I also brought a... thickish? panel line marker instead of a fine tip one. I think its GM301/302 or something. Lets just say i made a mess trying to panel line a SD (Gundam Base limited Musha Godmaru if that matters? ver Clear colour). Is this not used for panel lining? I bought this with recommendation from the staff at Tokyo Gundam Base (using Google Translate...)
   
   
3. I randomly bought a Gloss spray from a shop in Akihabara? I believe that is branded Mr.Hobby? Should it be used because i paint/panel line? I've seen some say before but some also after? or should a gloss coat be done with paint instead of spray?
   
   
4. I browsed around the web and see a "add-on" for HG V2 with the Wings of light effect, but can't seem to find it anywhere? Is there a way I can purchase this? I live in Canada Toronto if that matters.
   
   Thanks in advance for the random questions.

My favorite magnifiers as someone who does bench work, beading, wire wrap, stonework:

http://www.amazon.com/SE-1013FL-Helping-Magnifier-Light/dp/B000Z7GGJC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1405451223&sr=8-6&keywords=helping+hands

http://www.amazon.com/Microscope-Jeweler-Currency-Magnifier-Adjustable/dp/B00AQAANDS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1405451254&sr=8-9&keywords=jewelers+loupe
(this thing is so much fun, and I keep one on me when running around goodwills)

http://www.amazon.com/Housweety-Professional-Jewelers-Lighted-Magnifier/dp/B005VIG6TA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405451281&sr=8-1&keywords=jewelers+magnifier

None of these are expensive and all are very useful.

Amazon makes a huge difference, price wise. What is your budget on a battery/charger?

Cheapest LiPo Charger- $22

3s 45c LiPo - $14

This a really cheap setup that will give you all the power you need.

You can get a scriber to make panel lines. It takes patience and a steady hand, but very doable. People use label tape to help provide solid lines to follow.

> Eachine Wizard x220

Tattu makes some good batteries, both 3s and 4s.
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495748569&sr=1-6&keywords=3s+lipo+battery

I have 3 Lumenier lipos and each one is great. Mine are 1850 3s, 2250 3s, and 2250 4s. For your size I wouldn't go past 1850 (and even that's a little long), they get pretty big and heavy after that. Worked good on my 280, but obviously that much bigger than a 220.

I got this guy: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Scriber-II-Tools-Tamiya/dp/B002KKBVTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398719674&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+scriber+ii

I scribed the first couple of pieces today, definitely a skill to be learned! But I'll keep the WIPs coming! :D

I just searched on youtube for guides on eliminating seam lines, not sure who exactly but all the big youtube personalities pretty much have tutorials I believe.

Got it on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MRI1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0mIYCb2A9PYTP

Got the lighted magnifier there too. It can be free standing or clamp on. The ones locally available look like junk. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K10XA1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TpIYCbFB0MCVR

Thanks!

Literally metallic gundam markers haha

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539539201&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gundam+markers&dpPl=1&dpID=51CMzZ7y7VL&ref=plSrch

Theres a link to them!

It should of came with one. Did you get the $200 one? Best bet would be Amazon 3 days.

(3 s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858191&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3s+lipo+battery&psc=1]

(4s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RSEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858270&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4s+lipo+battery&dpPl=1&dpID=41BMq3RoUYL&ref=plSrch]

Yeah, I wasted so much paint on my partchment paper pallet prior to buying the wet pallet. I dunno what I was doing... I was planning on making one out of tupperware, but couldnt find a sponge at Michaels, so just bought it instead.

I actually purchased a jewelers headset that I love, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H8808H6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has a light and interchangeable lenses from 1x to 3.5x

is there a difference between these two gold gundam markers? if there is, what gold do you think would look best for painting the antennas/v fin on the RG unicorn gundam? i am asking because i dont want to use the gold foil sticker for that piece

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-GM04-Gundam-Marker-Gold/dp/B00750J0EA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=golda+gundam+marker&qid=1564335050&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

and the gold in this pack

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gold+gundam+marker&qid=1564335062&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I use these. I frickin' live in them when doing electronics. They fit over my glasses, and work really well straight out of the box.

I got back into painting after about a 25 year hiatus, and got the following:

this primer,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWORRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this paint kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWMTNDJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this wash:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0189BIERC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Really happy with all these products.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Sazabi-Version-Model/dp/B00EOEBG2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417304074&sr=8-1&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka

Here you go :D well it's not really a store but better than nothin :D

Barbatos (HG 1/144)

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Orphans-Barbatos-Iron-Blooded/dp/B0129DW0WG

I did paint the sword and the red marks rather than use stickers as well as the gold accents and panel lines and did the usual matte top coat.

Almost finished with my G Self as well just need the top coat.

$20 RC mini helicopter!

My brother got one and its pretty cool flying around with precise control

I think these might be more of a challenge. Hope the links work. http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Sazabi-Version-Model/dp/B00EOEBG2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005374&sr=8-1&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Unicorn-Gundam-Ver-Ka-Master/dp/B005QKF860/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005374&sr=8-9&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Sengoku-Astray-Gundam/dp/B00HD4ILWK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005701&sr=8-2&keywords=Sengoku+Astray+Gundamhttp://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Model-Astray/dp/B0042VJ018/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005374&sr=8-12&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka

$6 More and you can get a Remote Control Helicopter!

I have 2 of them. They're great!

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Yellow/dp/B004A8ZRB0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347027157&sr=8-1&keywords=helicopter

I bought these ones and they've worked out really well. They are slightly thicker than the OEM ones, but I haven't had a problem getting them in or out. I agree capacity-wise they generally don't provide much more flight time than OEM, but I've found I get significantly more time if I charge and then immediately use. Even charging in the morning for evening flying seems not quite as long. It's not just the aftermarket ones either.

I’ve been using this for detail work and it’s been great! Depth perception alteration takes some getting used to but I found the switch to this to be fairly painless.

Get one of these:

https://hlj.com/1-144-scale-rx-78-2-gundam-first-grade-ban72385

Prime it with this:

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/finishing/fine-surface-primer-l/

Mask with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-USA-TAM87030-Masking-Tape/dp/B0000WRZZQ

Hand paint with these:

http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=400

or

https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/categoria/hobby/mecha-color-en/

Or spray with these:

https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/tamiya_spray/kit85001.htm

http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=169

And top coat with either this:

https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/85080/index.htm

or

http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=268

Once you're comfortable painting, get a cheap compressor & airbrush and experiment with various acrylics, lacquers, etc.

These are the ones I use on my Gigabyte Aorus B450i mobo - 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RPSMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4a5ODb60E28V4

Works very well

i want to start painting the pilot figures. i'm thinking of buying a magnifying glass desk lamp. do you guys use such things? is it worth it? if so, any recommendations?

from my cursory research, seem this one may be decent value for relatively cheap price point.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K10XA1O?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=4WEDB459278EGVMBZEX9

unfortunately i live in somewhat of a countryside and need everything shipped...

https://www.amazon.ca/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525997806&sr=8-1&keywords=testor%27s+dullcote+spray

this looks a lot more reasonable but I've seen some people saying it melts your gunpla or something...? have you had any experience with this one?

edit:

nevermind, this looks like a very good alternative

https://www.amazon.ca/85080-Spray-TS80-Clear-100ml/dp/B000ZVO3YS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525998118&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+flat+clear

Halloween Hijinxery

Gotta love a tiny remote control helicopter!

> So it can be easier to work with but it's not a huge difference as the idea is still the same.

Completely disagree

Painters tape and modeling tape are WORLDS apart. Modeling tape is thinner, has less tack, leaves a sharper edge and is also slightly flexible.

I highly recommend Tamiya Masking tape

http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87030-000-Masking-Tape-6mm/dp/B0000WRZZQ

Use it on the edges and then you can use regular masking tape to mask the rest of the part

Haha, that makes much more sense.

It's not hard at all, just takes a little more patience. You put masking tape over the parts you don't want colored, paint, then remove the tape. Repeat for each color. Just be sure whatever you are taping is completely cured or you might peel it up.

Regular old masking tape (The paper-like brown stuff) works fine, but I recommend stuff specifically made for modeling/painting like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300087030-Masking-Tape-6mm/dp/B0000WRZZQ. It's smaller to begin with and has a smaller risk of ruining the paint job.

Yep, the real thing packaged in a factory box. It does not come with a battery though. I recommend the tenergy 380's on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1421780800&sr=1&keywords=tenergy. Also spend $7 on a 4 port charger: http://www.amazon.com/ThinkMax%C2%AE-In-Battery-Charger-Hubsan/dp/B00LGWQ4FG/ref=pd_bxgy_t_img_y

Sure, maybe check out this one: Bandai Hobby Wing Gundam Zero Version EW 1/100 - Master Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6KmCCb1YYNJAD

I think it would look really nice with a glossy look.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

these

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These have worked well from me, and are pretty small

I use ones that are used for drones. My gigabyte z390 mini itx has the the connectors close too. 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

No problem with antennas at all. I mostly use Ethernet so wasn’t concerned about the look. Good luck.

I have this headlamp and I love it.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H8808H6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

MG Sazabi is a beast of a kit, and it's just barely under $100 on Amazon at the moment.

Any version of the Unicorn Gundam is a good pick, though I'm not sure on Prime availability.

HG Kshatriya with Prime is ~$60.

Maybe a variation on the Sinanju? Stein, Ver. Ka, or Animation Color

I personally recommend Tamiya's clear coats, as they spray thin and cure fast.

I haven't used it myself so I can't recommend on experience, but Mr. Hobby is another well-liked brand for clear coats.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004QPCLQG?pc_redir=1407141650&robot_redir=1

That's what I use, but I'm sure the other stuff would work just fine.

Don't be sorry man. I'm feeling just like you. It had been years since I had build the 1/144 models I got from toys r us as a kid.

it's the master grade wing zero kit. I got it from a local store but I've seen it on Amazon and Gundam USA store.

Usa Gundam store :
https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/bandai-hobby-wing-gundam-zero-version-ew-1-100-master-grade

Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Wing-Gundam-Version/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=master+grade+wing+zero&qid=1575140321&sr=8-1

Honestly... at face value the kit looks okay but it probably comes with a lot of cheap crap you might not care about. I saw this in the similar section and I reckon that's enough if you wanna save a few more bucks and are keen on a set.

But if you're already willing to spend $20-30 then you can get what I suggested within that budget along with the knife you linked to (this and this, there's a few sellers for each you can get via Prime). That and some sandpaper from your hardware store and you'll be good to go dude.

Ultimately don't worry too much about the tools. You can make do with just sandpaper, a hobby knife and a crap pair of wire cutters and still do fine. Hell, that's all I had when I was a kid lol :P

Start by getting a line-of-sight drone and see if you like it first.

hubsan x4 (comes with a controller)

batteries

charger

prop guards+props

$55 to see if you like it.

When you break that, try repairing it. If you don't like that, then the hobby may not be for you.

I use this on my Gunpla and have gotten some great results.

https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Weathering-Master-6-Sets-Japan/dp/B00M66FM86

I use this battery for my stryfe with hellcats and it has worked great for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497552006&sr=8-1&keywords=tattu+3s

After the thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/MTGLegacy/comments/6k77zx/buying_duals_is_terrifying/ I figured I'd try to disprove the rumor that the text is the biggest give-away (hint: it's not), and bring some degree of confidence to those who do want to buy duals (hint: just buy a $5 loupe!)

 

Here's the loupe I use: https://www.amazon.com/KINGMAS-Pocket-Microscope-Jeweler-Magnifier/dp/B00AQAANDS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1498759657&sr=8-11&keywords=jewelers+loupe

I think the stock X4 comes with a 280 mah battery but I read that the 380's were a good compromise of performance and flight time. I'm going to go with these from Amazon.

Most people swear by Tamiya masking tape (in various sizes), I picked some up from my local hobby store and it works pretty well.

I reccomended cool gunplas that familiar like this

Not sure where your are looking to find them 'too expensive'.

Pin Vise

Tamiya Basic File Set

Tamiya Plastic Scriber II

Those are cheap and or par the course for finding them elsewhere. I don't think going with used tools is a good idea when you can get them new for very reasonable prices on amazon.

I got this and it’s perfect. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K10XA1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pazQBbKS6AWWN

Finally got a useful "spam" email from Amazon, here are some of the kits that appear to be on sale.

MG Sandrock - $42.64

MG Heavyarms - $42.40

MG Deathscythe Hell - $48.90

MG Wing Zero Custom - $43.66

MG Shenlong - $41.49

MG Deathscythe - $41.79

MG Wing Ver.Ka - $47.95

MG Wing - $44.29

MG Buster - $47.50

MG Nu Ver.Ka - $72.07

Reaper makes Learn to Paint kits. I've used them to reinforce some of what I've learned at local painting meetups and I've liked them. I ended up grabbing a large Army Painter paint set and then had a wet palette and a Winsor & Newton brush recommended to me from a Zombicide painting group. They also pointed me to a head-mounted light/magnifying glass and some brush soap.

In terms of how to paint them, I would do Mephiston Red → Evil Sunz Scarlet → Wild Rider Red with Carroburg Crimson shade for the armor and then do a standard Citadel gold progression for the trim. After that I would recommend using weathering powders and standard "chipped" armor techniques. Good luck!!

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Yellow/dp/B004A8ZRB0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323554972&sr=8-1

The most fun i've had for $27 in a really long time

Not necessarily CC, but this product may help you get the crispest lines possible, for a bit of effort:
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300087030-Masking-Tape-6mm/dp/B0000WRZZQ

Thanks! I went with Testors lusterless flat. Decent price for what it covers!

The gear I used for this, plus the kit itself, I all got from Amazon.

A Basic Modelling Tools Kit and the Gundam Marker Value Set.

Do you know if the Testors is any good? I've also had people tell me you can't use lacquers over acrylics, is this true?

I use these. They are tiny but work well, my router is on the floor above me and I've never had a problem with these

Looks pretty good! This gives me hope, that I can do something similar. I have this startet-painting set, but did not find the courage to give it a try yet.

Unlimited Fun @ $19.75

After I did a decent bit of research a few months back I ended up getting this one and enjoy it quite a bit.

I got this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

and this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N149M/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

my two favorites 15 years ago

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?

Gundam

Glue

Marker

Tweezers

Knife

Cutters

Mat

More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

My boyfriend really wanted this for his birthday, but I lost my job and I couldn't afford it. Yes, he is a child at heart. He's really 25, and he said he would take a "derp" photo.

edit: um... he's 26 now, hence the birthday. woops.

this stuff right here turns any gloss finish into a very nice flat finish https://www.amazon.com/Lusterless-Flat-Lacquer-Clear-Testors/dp/B004QPCLQG

If I were to panel line via Gundam Marker, is a topcoat necessary?

Also, assuming the two don't overlap, can I panel line and apply decals/waterslides/etc?

And in that case, would this do? Or is a glossy topcoat more recommended if only doing one topcoat layer?

I have these. They're pretty nice but way too heavy for the small little nose piece. I have to take breaks from them. I think I'm just going to a regular old magnifying glass and light on a stand for my desk.

That would probably be the Sazabi Ver. Ka bestie.
Though I hear the ZZ Ver. Ka which recently came out gives it a good run for its money.

Here is a cool site to look at detailed reviews at majority of most kits out there bestie (click on the MG, RG, so on at the top). It’s in Korean, but they shows tons of pictures to give you an idea of the kit, and you can always translate the page to see what is said if needed.

Let me know if you have any other questions (Gundam or Gunpla) bestie I’ll answer them for you.

I also bought Tamiya weathering material. I'm really excited!

If I remember it right, ver. EW kits are Katoki's redesigns based on Endless Waltz manga, not the OVA/movie. I guess they're very close to original anime designs there.

EW movie versions usually have 'Custom' or 'Kai' suffix.

For the gundam that he likes, depending on your budget...

HG Wing Zero (~$30):
http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Endless-Gundam-Custom/dp/B0006N148I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407976011

MG Wing Zero (~$50): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=26F7AFGMYHONY&coliid=I19JHH8DW71UF9

PG Wing Zero (~$170):
http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Custom-Perfect-Grade/dp/B0009GVE7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407976011

Note that the PG is considered one of the worst perfect grades, I'd personally go with the Master Grade if you plan on getting him a kit rather than just tools/accessories.

This is another popular option: https://www.amazon.com/KINGMAS-Pocket-Microscope-Jeweler-Magnifier/dp/B00AQAANDS/ref=pd_sim_201_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AQAANDS&pd_rd_r=T85T5H6TCG8FQT8Q80XR&pd_rd_w=mh4B9&pd_rd_wg=9WA7H&psc=1&refRID=T85T5H6TCG8FQT8Q80XR

Multiple vendors sell that same one for multiple price points.

GSI Creos AMS 121 Gundam Metallic Marker Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1gUYzbAK0T5FT

Keep it a secret okay? ;)

It's currently at $90 on Amazon.

As for the Gatling Guns, those are a third party add on. Made by Playwright

This.
Everything else on my list has some purpose or use... this... well I just thought "I want a helicopter!"

Testor's Model Master Lusterless Clear Coat.

https://www.amazon.com/Lusterless-Flat-Lacquer-Clear-Testors/dp/B004QPCLQG/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1527601268&sr=1-1&keywords=lusterless+flat+lacquer+clear+coat+testors

If you don't have a hobby store nearby, I recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Lusterless-Flat-Lacquer-Clear-Testors/dp/B004QPCLQG

A handheld for checking trichomes, I like these little cheapies: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQAANDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But checking for broad and russet mites, the USB plug-in is the way to go.

Which batteries did you get? I like the TEnergy Batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter/dp/B00HS5Y6G4

As opposed to these I found on banggood:

http://m.banggood.com/5-X-Upgrade-25C-3_7V-380MAH-Battery-For-Hubsan-X4-QR-Ladybird-p-69895.html

Is this deal worth it? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1JYXKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IR1NAb14D22A5
I feel like I'm letting the kits down with my current tools and was wondering if I should get it.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/

It was another amazon find for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K10XA1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Fh9FMsyEilKRq Its not too bad. I dont really use the magnifying glass though

Ooh! I got these recently and they've helped SO MUCH! The light goes right where you need it, and you can direct it slightly up or down, too. I also never realized how helpful magnification is until getting these. My stitches are so much more even!