(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best household paint & primers

TL;DR -- I did not use a primer, and I did completely paint the inside and outside of both panels. No fitment issues, only issue due to extra thickness from the paint was the screws struggling a little bit during re-installation.

Satin Black

Satin Clear

Those are the paints I used. I did not use a primer. I went with satin on both because I was after a matte look like the main black body on the stick. I didn't want them glossy like the original white panels. I did paint the entire surface of the panels. The only thing I noticed was the screws struggled a little bit during re-installation but that was to be expected and really wasn't an issue. I didn't and haven't noticed any other fitment issues from the paint.

For preparation, all I did was wash the panels to remove any dirt/oils and then used the finest sandpaper I had on hand to sand/scuff up both panels to help the paint stick better.

If I remember correctly, I did two (maybe three? sorry it was a while ago) coats of each the black paint and the clear top coat. You will want to spray a good distance away from the panel you're painting, at least 8-10 inches, and nice smooth motions, you kind of want the paint to fall onto the panel lightly, if that makes sense. It helps to avoid runs and imperfections.

I used a paper clip in the screw holes to help me manipulate and hold the panel up as I was spraying so I avoided finger prints and also keep it propped up during drying so it didn't stick to the cardboard box I was using. Between coats check the entire panel for runs or clumps and if there are any, wet-sand those areas smooth with the finest grit sandpaper you have before you apply the next coat.

Once I was satisfied with the look/finish, I let it dry for 72 hours. I just wanted to be sure that everything was DRY before securing them back on the stick. Obviously, you can still use the stick during this, it just looks weird without the panels.

Doing it this way was not 100% ideal or correct I'm sure, I'm not a painter and haven't had much experience with it to be honest. There are one or two imperfections, which I suppose I could wet-sand and repaint, but I don't notice them. They are small, and i don't feel like doing that process again for one or two small imperfections. I am very happy with the look and outcome of the little project and happy I did it. They look so much better black than they did white.

Hopefully this post is of some help. Good luck, you will be very happy you did it. It is worth it, the stick looks so much better.

You're on the right track. The single barrel UDS upright is really only 4 main parts. You have your drum, a fire basket, grate, and lid. I'm at work otherwise I would take pics of mine and walk you through it. Might be able to still do that later but here are a couple things to look at to get you started. link cross section

I have a heat deflector on my charcoal basket as well. It was cheaper to just make a clover shape deflector out of 3 pizza pans with a bolt through the edge. All about getting creative.

Here's a write up of how I made mine:

1. Burn out the drum - I burned out the drum with a propane weed burner. You can buy one pretty cheap from Harbor Freight or rent one from a local place. I burned out the liner of the drum really well so that the liner didn't come off and end up in my food. Took about 2 hours of good burning and vigorous steel brushing to clean it up to my satisfaction.
   
   
2. Fire basket - I cannibalized an old Weber grill for a bunch of parts for this build. I used the charcoal grate, some expanded metal mesh, and some steel zip ties to form a basket shape. A few inches of threaded rod with some washers and nuts to fasten it to the grate for legs and boom - fire basket is good to go.
   
   
3. Lid - I used an old Weber 22" lid for this so I could have a middle and top rack in my smoker. I flared out the edge and riveted on a piece of tin to make it a little wider since the original size was roughly the same as the barrel and you want a nice fit. You can go with a flat top and add a stack or get creative. Just keep in mind the airflow.
   
   
4. Burn 'n' beer. I was still unsure of the chemicals ending up in my food so I decided to take a break. Loaded up the barrel with some good hard wood and started a hobo campfire. Buddy and I drank some beers and relaxed for a bit while that sucker got spit-jumping hot - as in, we would spit on the outside and it would appear to bounce off.
   
   
5. Air inflow - This was the hardest part for me. I used salvaged black pipe and made intake pipes that went in at the bottom and ran parallel to the drum up to the top where it was finished with a couple gate valves. I liked the valves for controlling the air flow but found that the 2 x 1" pipes weren't enough. So I ended up putting two more "always open" holes about 2" above the bottom. That seemed to fix it and give me the control I wanted.
   
   
6. Paint - you don't have to, but if you're gonna spend the money, you may as well protect your investment. I used Rustoleum High Heat and it worked well. I've seen some people get crazy with designs but that's totally up to you.
   
7. Racks and Temp Guage - I installed the racks by resting them on self tapping metal screws put through from the outside. Only had to put two in because I ended up adding U-bolts to support the black pipe intake valves and they poked through far enough to rest the grate on. The temp guage that i installed was just a cheapo grill one - nothing special but it gets the job done.
   
   Now I don't move mine far so I never installed the castors that I was planning on using. I had the basic design in my head of using angle iron and basically making a permanent hand truck that attaches to the side of the drum and all you had to do to move it was tilt the drum onto the wheels and you're off.
   
   This is a pretty rough write up and I apologize for the lack of pics. If I can find my build pics, I'll post them here. Let me know if you have any questions or if I can help!

I'm a big fan of Army Painter products. I've had pretty good luck with them so I'm kind of slanted towards them. So I recommend...

1- a set of these brushes.

2- Any of the Army Painter primers are good. But this is my favorite. Coats and covers well. Also works for a lot of different models.

3- A set of these have come in handy for me several times.

4- These clear bases are my favorite. I've rebased several figures with these. Love them for there ability to show the terrain the figure is standing on.

5- And a cheap basecoat sized brush for mixing paints and brushing on quickshades.

This is obviously just my opinion. But I hope it helps.

Harry potter is life

Thanks for the contest!

I think the biggest thing that makes me happy lately are my 2 puppies. They've been there for me through a lot of hard times and are always up for cuddles. I love them and they are pretty awesomleyfantasticsauce! :)

this would make me happy because I love all things chalkboard! YAY!

D

Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.

full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost https://imgur.com/a/5RE2d

STEPS

Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.

Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.

Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.


OVERALL TIPS

With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.

I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.

Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both

PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)

https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/7thl9p/iniki_boost_blackout_oil_based_sharpie_matte/

Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.

I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)



PRODUCT LINKS

Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU322DQ

Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QV7XIS

Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPXF6XG

Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5W4LX4

Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS

Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98
https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6

The paint is probably this color...or close to it.

Honestly I don't think you're going to be able to get rid of the spray paint without ruining the original paint. I know you're also concerned about the original lettering but you already have a big scrape across the top.

Given you said that rust has already set in, I would do a complete refinish on it.

• Take pics of everything as it is.
  
• Next find a similar font to the text on the can and make a template for the letters.
  
  
• Strip the paint off of the can. If you have a sand blaster I'd use that otherwise a wire wheel on a bench grinder will make short work of the outside. The inside you'll have to attack by hand or wire wheel on a rotory tool.
  
  
• Prime the metal. Since you're combating rust I'd use a good rust converting primer like this available at auto parts stores. I'd do two or three coats for durability.
  
  
• Once the primer dries, get your template and spray your text back on and let it dry.
  
  
• Once the text is dry mask it off and then spray the rest of the can your green color.
  
  
• Finish with a flat clear coat like this.
  
  I've finished a few metal cabinets and other metal pieces this way and it works pretty nice. The can will come out good as new. If you want the can to look the way it does now but stop rusting, I suppose you could spray it with some rust inhibitor, and then just use a flat clear over it so it stops rusting.

https://imgur.com/a/QqzTB9s heres my paint job i did the other day. the line at the side is quite scuffed to split the colours due to slightly dodgy tape use and the mouse buttons are a little weird feeling due to messing up my use of primer (spraying too close) but the rest i'm happy with and it feels not too different to the matte finish the mouse game with. the way i did it was i sanded it down just with some sandpaper i had at home, then used one good layer of primer paint ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001W03PSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) then painted on a few layers of paint for each of my colours ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003X1DCJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003X1B9UI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and finished it off with this matte clear finish ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006O6D8FS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). i'm sure you don't need these exact paints but they worked well for me and i've still got loads left for doing more mice if i want which is a nice bonus.

Yes I'm a novice painter. I've done a few rooms in my home. The garage has been the largest project so far (just finished the walls which needed quite a bit of spackling and re-taping). I'll look at that solution you suggested and let you know if I have any questions. I appreciate the response, thanks!

edit

ok i looked at this on Amazon and read the popular reviews (link: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-261845-EpoxyShield-Garage-Coating/dp/B006ZUZ9QE). One question I still have is the power washing. Should I tape plastic drop cloths to the walls so I don't ruin them with the power washer? I can't see how I could possibly power wash inside the garage without soaking the drywall. Also, i have a water filter in the garage with a boot that sits on the floor. Removing this thing is not trivial. I need a plumber if I were to do that. Would I be able to go around it knowing that one spot on the floor will be old/unfinished? I may be able to put a neat square around it or something. What would you recommend for something like that?

The rest seems pretty straight forward (thought a lot of work) based on the first reviewers instructions. I think I can tackle this when the weather warms up.

My only concern is that the negative reviews say this stuff tends to come up after a few months, especially if tires go on it. Have you had any experience with this? Do you know why this might be happening for them?

I would love to see this painted, too. Hell, I'd love to paint one.

I'm not familiar with the material used in 3D printing, but if it's anything like plastic or resin, then it should take Krylon primer or something similar pretty well.

After the primer dries, you can use any kind of craft acrylic paint to give it color. If you're feeling saucy, get the good stuff that wargamers use, like at a local game shop.

Forgive me in advance if you know all this and I'm just insulting your intelligence.

Here’s my out-of-the box suggestion: If you can find the style of shoe you like in a light or neutral color, then you can paint the shoe with Angelus brand leather paint in metallic silver. I have done this several times when I have loved a shoe but couldn’t find the right color, with great results. Tape the soles and parts you don’t want painted with frog brand painters tape. Painting is in three steps: apply finisher and deglazer and let dry, apply paint and let dry, then apply finisher and let dry. Hopefully you can find the right color shoes, but I wanted to put this option out there just in case. If you decide to do this, message me and I will be happy to send detailed instructions.

https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Leather-Preparer-Deglazer-Oz/dp/B00EU322DQ?crid=28ONTX97BK2L&keywords=angelus+leather+preparer+and+deglazer&qid=1540669671&sprefix=Angelus+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-1&ref=sr_1_1

https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Acrylic-Leather-Paint-1oz-Silver/dp/B00HRJPVS8?crid=275059PK4ATA&keywords=angelus+metallic+silver&qid=1540669816&sprefix=angelus+metallic+%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-1&ref=sr_1_1


https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Brand-Acrylic-Leather-Finisher/dp/B00B5W4LX4?crid=28ONTX97BK2L&keywords=angelus+leather+preparer+and+deglazer&qid=1540669751&sprefix=Angelus+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-3&ref=sr_1_3

Brushes
https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Paint-Angular-Artist-Acrylic/dp/B072LRHFTM?keywords=angelus+brushes&qid=1540669936&sr=8-2&ref=sr_1_2

thank you!

It was pretty simple. I used painters tape + an exacto knife to mask the underside, and used two coats of my go-to spray paint.

Blue ring is just as bright as before. I took great care to not directly spray into the crevice, and I think it worked well!

After two weeks, I’ve measure a mean signal loss of 1.2db. In the same timeframe I’ve pushed 6TB of data through it and haven’t noticed a difference.

I’ll most likely be doing this to a few more in the near future and can post a more detailed process with pics, if anyone is interested.

I’m also curious about, and me being me, will likely experiment with aerosol rubber, and vinyl.

I actually just sprayed my Thomas helmet with Rust-Oleum Bright Coat Metallic Finish and, while it didn't come out nearly as good as a chrome would (I wanted to be sure that it would be done by halloween), it does look pretty good. Here's what it looks like with that metaillic spray paint without any sanding which would have done a world of help (don't zoom in too far, I had to crank up the iso since my apartment is so dark, so they're pretty noisy).

Here's the full build album, if you're interested. I've still got a ton more work to do, such as finishing fiberglassing the inside and applying bondo to the outside.

You'll want to use a primer! Don't worry, it took me forever to figure that out. Basically acrylic paint isn't made to stick on plastic, and it'll come off super easy. Primers are paints made to stick on things like plastic. That means that you're coating your model in a material that accepts your acrylic paint better than plastic. You can get primer from any home improvement store, but here's some links to some on amazon. They all work just fine, you just need to make sure it says "primer" somewhere on the can.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249846-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS94/

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/

https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Colour-Chaos-Primer-Undercoat/dp/B000A5CHHE/

Appreciate someone finally responding ha. I wish there was a really good (and active) modding subreddit.

Actually, I found something else that I think is going to work much better. That sand idea was terrible. Instead I found this, which I think is going to be perfect.

I have an extra face plate, so i'll try it on that first and see if it's what I'm looking for.

Personally, I use something like this. I have the flat white not the Ultra Matte version, but similar.

​

> Why can you use Chaos Black as a primer, but not Leadbelcher.

For an army like Necrons or Grey Knights, Leadbelcher might be a great choice.

I would probably find a lighter grey metallic for classic Grey Knights, but for the classic Necron color scheme, Leadbelcher would be a great primer. If you're doing lighter colors or have a lot of flesh in your army, I wouldn't use Leadbelcher, since it would be annoying to have to go over those parts with a lot of layers to get good coverage.

There isn't a way to do it without having seam lines, and you, being the one that made it, will always see them. Some people may not notice them for a while, but upon close inspection they will become obvious.

All props that I have made have peen printed, assembled, finished, in that order. If you want to keep the stainless steel pla visible, there isn't really anything I can think to do. In terms of part assembly I trust nothing but Krazy Glue. It dries in about 10 seconds, and another 30 seconds or so and the bond is stronger than the later bonds of PETG, which is known for its layer strength. Absolute nightmare if you mess up. If you do mess up, or are not confident on the seam, separate immediately.

If you're looking to go the painting route then I would assemble it, fill the gaps with some Bondo. Wait for it to dry, sand it flush, use some Filler Primer, then spray paint it. Once painted, cover in a Clear Coat so the paint doesn't rub off.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask and I'll get back to you.

Since you don't know what you're doing, if it doesn't leak, I'd just reglaze it with something like this stuff and call it a day. They have a brush on version too.


Mask everything off really well if you're going to spray and make sure you have good ventilation. Clean and prep according to instructions. You can't get it wet for a few days so you will have to use your bathroom sink or tub to wash up dishes. Other than that as long as you don't clean with abrasives it should hold up. I did a tub at my mom's house with the brush version of that and 10 years later it still looks good.

You can put a piece of 1/4" plywood or luan or something on the bottom of the cabinet to clean it up. Home improvement stores will cut it for you. I've even seen people use a cutoff of sheet vinyl or cheap vinyl plank flooring for that purpose too.

Paint the cabinets and change the handles out. Don't sand unless you've tested for lead based paint. Caulk all your wet surfaces back up and paint the walls. Maybe have a plumber come out and change the faucet to something a little nicer if you're feeling adventurous. I would let a pro do this if you're going to attempt it though.

Problem is, if it's that old and you take the plumbing or base cabinet out, there will most certainly be some issues found along the way that will derail what would be a fairly simple project. Since you don't own it, what are you going to do if you bust it out and run into some disaster?

I have done work in old houses and found things like water damage, buried electrical boxes, newspaper stuffed into crevices, asbestos, lead paint or rodent damage and more. I've had old fixtures break off and new ones not fit back on without a lot of replumbing. So you never really know what you're going to get into.

I used /u/AgentOrange96's v2 Painting Guide as a base and did a few modifications based on material availability.

Initially I did some light/medium sanding of the rubberised coating over the case so the paint will adhere better, starting with 400gr paper then finishing with 2000gr to finish up. I was a bit worried about not removing the paint completely, but it's cured pretty well without any problems. I then used Rust-oleum White Primer for 3 layers, waiting about 15 minutes between them and coating sparsely. Then did 3 layers of Plasti-kote Matt White leaving about an hour in between. Was touch dry after an hour, did another 3 layers in the same fashion, then left it alone for about 4 days to let the paint cure.

In hindsight, I will probably add a clear coat at some point: although I've been careful to not do anything silly, there is a minor scuff just by the numpad enter key that was caused by something. The matt coat it currently has is pretty tough, but no harm in adding extra protection :)

Thanks! For the Thomas helmet, I started with a chrome motorcycle half helmet as the base. Then I used chrome (mirror) vinyl to cover the visor and stuff (that's the really shiny part).

The chrome spray paint I used on the ear pieces can be found at any hardware store (rustomleum, krylon, etc.--something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7718830-Bright-Metallic-11-Ounce/dp/B000Z8DGXK)--but it's not as "mirror" like as the helmet or the vinyl. It's more "silver" than chrome.

Hope it helps!

I used Rust-Oleum spray paint and this sealant. LOTS of light coats of the white as it can run easily (and it smells like shit!) and then 2-3 light coats of the sealant and 1-2 heavy coats (just enough to see a glassy, shiny surface all over your system). Boom! Success.

I used fusion black satin and it came out great. Dries super fast.
here

I am looking for a white wireless mechanical keyboard with RGB lighting (I prefer software control for increased customization). I would be aiming for in order of preference TKL > Full > 60% with arrow keys (65%?). I have been surfing some of the resources but the sheer quantity and lack of brand knowledge is daunting so if anyone has time to help that would be amazing.

My current board is BlackWidow Chroma Ultimate 2014 which while I like the RGB and switches, I really don't love the color scheme/massive cord/size.

I'm not extremely concerned with the switch type but I currently use green switches so I believe the non-razer alternative is blue? So blue would be consistent with what I'm used to.

If what I'm asking for is not possible or completely nuts level of expensive I am also looking for paint brand suggestions for painting my current one white, I was looking at these: Rustoleum Matte White and Rustoleum Matte Clear (top coat) but wasn't sure.

Thanks!

This build will be able to play anything at 1080p 60fps high settings:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $79.44 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B250M PRO-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $54.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Windforce OC Video Card | $216.89 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.97 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $605.05
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $595.05
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-07 00:58 EDT-0400 |

If you want 4k 60fps high settings, you're going to have to significantly increase your budget:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $124.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card | $514.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Define Mini C with Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $72.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1148.69
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $1138.69
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-07 01:01 EDT-0400 |

Edit: Here is the stuff you'll need to paint your case orange:

https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Assortment-Automotive-Furniture-Finishing/dp/B01MZALAD9/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502082191&sr=8-5&keywords=sandpaper

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-280715-Primer-American-Accents/dp/B00KZ6LLZW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502082223&sr=1-1&keywords=white+primer+spray+paint

https://www.amazon.com/280698-American-Accents-Orange-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LVUW/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502082246&sr=1-2&keywords=orange+spray+paint

https://www.amazon.com/Oleum-280702-American-Accents-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LYMM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502082271&sr=1-1&keywords=spray+paint+gloss+finish

Try using the same product but from a can. Spray it lightly in order to seal up the edges of the older paint. A few coats may be enough. Once the edges are sealed up, you may decide to use the mixed product for a thicker application in order to better match the surrounding areas. Good luck.

Same stuff, but thanks for the suggestion. I'm actually using it, and just erasing the ghosting w/ a Mr. Clean magic eraser every once in awhile.

Meanwhile I ordered this dry erase paint, which I'm going to apply in coats with the proper sanding and primer. Will report back here in a week or so--hopefully this works!

Here is a link to the original submission


http://www.reddit.com/r/GunPorn/comments/2dibda/noveske_spr_and_colt_6020_carbine_builds_xpost/


Here is a comment by the original submitter

• Right Side
  
• Left Side
  
• SPR Targets
  
• Album (all 3 pictures)
  
  
   
  
  Noveske
  
  Lower
  
  
• Noveske Gen 3 Billet Lower
  
• Geissele SSA-E Trigger
  
• Rock River A2 Stock, painted with Aervoe 8343 Coyote Brown
  
• Magpul MOE + FDE Grip
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Battle Arms Ambidextrous Safety Selector
  
• Seekins Precision Magazine Release Button
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T0 Buffer Spacer
  
• Harris S-BRM 6-9" Bipod
  
• American Defense AD-BP Bipod Mount
  
  Upper
  
  
• Rainier Arms 18" UltraMatch Shilen Barrel, 1:8 twist, ratchet rifling, with mid-length gas system
  
• Rainier Arms Low Profile 'Match Grade' Gas Block
  
• Rainier Arms UltraMatch Billet A4 Upper Receiver
  
• Geissele 15" SMR MKII Rail
  
• Rainier Arms Nickle Boron Finish Bolt Carrier Group
  
• Rainier Arms Raptor Ambidextrous Billet Charging Handle
  
• Lantac Dragon Muzzle Brake
  
• Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP MOA-MOA Scope
  
• Vortex SV-2 Switchview Throw Lever
  
• Vortex Bubble Level Anti-Cant Device
  
• Butler Creek flip-open scope caps, size 18, and size 43
  
• American Defense AD-RECON-30 Quick Release Scope Mount
  
• Knight's Armament Micro Flip-Up Rear Sight 200-600m
  
• Troy HK Style Flip-Up Front Sight
  
  
   
  
  
  Colt
  
  
• Colt 6920 M4 Carbine (started as a stock Magpul edition)
  
• Geissele SSA-E Trigger
  
• Battlecomp 2.0 Compensator
  
• Eotech XPS 2-2
  
• Primary Arms 3X Long Eye Relief Magnifier Gen III
  
• Primary Arms Quick Detachable Flip To Side Magnifier Mount (Standard Height)
  
• Troy Industries MRF-C FDE BattleRail
  
• Magpul MOE FDE Grip
  
• Magpul CR123X2 Grip Core
  
• Magpul CTR FDE Stock
  
• Magpul Enhanced Rubber Buttpad
  
• Magpul AFG2 Grip
  
• Magpul MOE Trigger Guard
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Troy Rear Folding BattleSight
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Streamlight TLR1S Weapon Light
  
• Badger Tactical Charging Handle Latch
  
• Noveske QD end plate
  
  xpost from /r/ar15

A car part??? that's insane I would definitely ask for a refund. My scuffs weren't too bad, i got this spray paint to fix them, it matches the finish perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QD7J7I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’m sure there are plenty of great options for doing it yourself. We did it ourselves with no experience and used this kit from Rustoleum. You definitely don’t want to run out of product. This kit claims 2.5 car garage and it barely covered our 2 car garage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZUZ9QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zU26CbXC4QSZC
There are some surface inconsistencies where the flakes were sprinkled a little heavier in some places, but other than that we are very pleased with the result for the cost. As for your concrete being “a mess”, are we talking dirt and grime or damage? We had a lot of grease and spent a lot of time prepping the surface with a sturdy wire brush and a degreaser. It must be free from grease and oils before starting the process. Hope this helps!

I seal my acrylic alters with two coats of this to prevent flaking or scratching. It does the trick.

If there is any increase in thickness, it's entirely undetectable.

Also, it gives the finished product a more even appearance. Transitions from non-painted to painted surfaces on the card are less noticeable when the light hits the card from an angle that might cause a glare. I think that's largely due to the matte finish of the spray.

Hope that helps.

Because it is!
They make paint that will turn any surface into a chalkboard. It really works too, when I was little my parents painted a whole wall with it and it was pretty neat.
Here's a link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006BAEI6

I used rustoeleum spray paint. Sanded the body down first and then applied 3 coats. The black looks great. I also used a glossy red which hasn't held up nearly as well. PM me for a picture.

I also use Rust-Oleum, the Universal Bonding Primer. I've tried a bunch of different cheap primers from walmart/hardware stores and this is the best one I've found, hands down. It dries very quickly.

Hasn't been in stock on Amazon in a while, but this is what the can looks like:
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-285011-Stops-Rust-Universal-Bonding-Primer-12-Ounce-White/dp/B00SVWJ8U2/ref=cm_cr_othr_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8

1" Wood discs + Black Primer = instant bases in bulk.

Use painter's tape and put it sticky side up on a cardboard mount - an easy way to do this is wrap painters tape sticky side out around an empty box so it also sticks to itself and stays on the box. Stick rows of wood discs on the tape, spray black. Let dry, flip discs, spray again, let dry. Remove discs, throw box away.

Glue Minis to bases with a couple small drops of crazy glue. Really simple, really fast, nice and neat looking.

Seconded (thirded?). I bought a can of high heat paint off amazon for a rebuild that I ended up letting a buddy use on his Sporty's pipes. disassemble the whole shebang and tape over the ends, paint it on a nice day, let it totally dry. This stuff goes on almost like primer so it didn't need much prep work either.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248903-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B003CT4AKC/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375303554&sr=1-3&keywords=grill+spray+paint

I am linking this Chalkboard Paint. And I think it would be just fabulous because it is currently snowing in NY (which one could argue is just colder rain) and I am in the mood to paint a fun & functional wall somewhere in my house. I also kind of want to paint a big chalkboard for my office for the kids to use. They definitely don't have real chalk boards in school anymore. Plus it's under $10 and prime eligible.

Rust-Oleum 206540 Chalkboard Brush-On, Black, 30-Ounce by Rust-Oleum http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006BAEI6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3SYetb1J8HNJV




The old man in snoring

Krylon Maxx https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K09188000-COVERMAXX-Primer-White/dp/B00PSO6YZI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=krylon+maxx+primer+white+matte&qid=1565359919&s=gateway&sr=8-1

i did not pay 20$ for it lol, i got it for like 4$ at my local art store thats shutting down

Nice job! You can bring it to a mirror finish if you use some rouge on a buffing wheel. Also, you might want to get a rust inhibitor like this one from Rustoleum.

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Skeleton-Spray-Primer/dp/B005C3CYV8/ref=mp_s_a_1_31_sspa?crid=2WHXKM2XDP6BW&keywords=army+painter&qid=1550518189&s=gateway&sprefix=army+pa&sr=8-31-spons&psc=1&smid=AU2FNATHSFHNB

Just be sure to use it lightly, it sprays pretty thick

Sure thing!

Lower

• Noveske Gen 3 Billet Lower
  
• Geissele High Speed DMR Trigger
  
• Rock River A2 Stock, painted with Aervoe 8343 Coyote Brown
  
• Magpul MOE + FDE Grip
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Battle Arms Ambidextrous Safety Selector
  
• Seekins Precision Magazine Release Button
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T0 Buffer Spacer
  
• Harris S-BRM 6-9" Bipod
  
• American Defense AD-BP Bipod Mount
  
  Upper
  
  
• Rainier Arms 18" UltraMatch Shilen Barrel, 1:8 twist, ratchet rifling, with mid-length gas system
  
• Rainier Arms Low Profile 'Match Grade' Gas Block
  
• Rainier Arms UltraMatch Billet A4 Upper Receiver
  
• Geissele 15" SMR MKII Rail
  
• Rainier Arms Precision Match Grade Nickel Boron BCG
  
• Rainier Arms Raptor Ambidextrous Billet Charging Handle
  
• Lantac Dragon Muzzle Brake
  
• Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP MOA-MOA Scope
  
• Vortex SV-2 Switchview Throw Lever
  
• Vortex Bubble Level Anti-Cant Device
  
• Butler Creek flip-open scope caps, size 18, and size 43
  
• American Defense AD-RECON-30 Quick Release Scope Mount
  
• Knight's Armament Micro Flip-Up Rear Sight 200-600m
  
• Troy HK Style Flip-Up Front Sight
  
  Obligatory target pic
  
  
• Handholds at 100 yards

Does anyone know if this would be a good finish to go over the paint?

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-11-Ounce-Clear-Finish-Aerosol/dp/B001HWCLK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422148850&sr=8-1&keywords=krylon+clear+matte

this would work better. The high heat needs really high heat to "bake" on and cure.

What I have in my home office.

What I'd recommend if you're not in a permanent place.

I put down white pain about 5 layers to make it look go (go as glossy as possible) Then i used Clear Whiteboard paint that i got from Homedepot
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-White/dp/B000PGBCOC.

Used 3 layers of that.

I did it in January and they lasted until the end of the year. USing the fine markers made clean up way easier. Each student had their own cloth and my class at the end of the day wiped them down. You might have to replace em every other year id think. I put down some decals aswell and covered them in the clear paint to (coordinate plane 15x15, multiplication table, numberline). Kids picked at the stickers and ruined another teachers desk who did it too but mine stayed great cause i laid down the rules early on that if they messed em up id mess them up.

Thank you! I've put some of this on.

Alternatively, if you can make a speech bubble out of another material more easily, you could then paint it with whiteboard paint. Just a thought.

I think rust oleum has a "chrome" can.

Like this

This is what I've been using recently. (I get it for like $10 a can from Walmart)

http://www.amazon.ca/Krylon-Clear-Finish-Aerosol-11-Ounce/dp/B001HWCLK2

As for how it looks, my Duel & Buster were sprayed with it so you can check them out below

http://imgur.com/a/HmPeu

I was considering covering the top in something like http://smile.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-On-White/dp/B000PGBCOC/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409768795&sr=8-1&keywords=whiteboard+paint

it would always be on, but would serve a similar function.

To add to this suggestion, this paint works well:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003CT4AKC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_alFVCbDETHETK

I used Rustoleum Pro line flat black on mine. No peeling. I don't know if that is what you are looking for though.
EDIT: Don't know if that is the texture you want, and it does chip after a while. Look into getting an etching primer before you lay down the bed liner, it might stick better

Link to Amazon with reviews

I haven't tried it yet, but the artist who I've been following most closely as I learn about sculpting uses Krylon matte finish spray (this one I believe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWCLK2/ref=twister_B004JLA2OU?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1), and her stuff doesn't seem to be shiny. Her name is EmilySculpts if you want to check her out.

That sucks. Get some good paint to repair it and it shouldn't happen again.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CT4AKC/

If you want it black I suggest high temp paint

That's so awesome. I invent new paints for a living and have made a few aerosols before. I think art like this needs to be supported more and people need to distinguish between this and someone putting up their dumb tag. One of the problems is that the 2 largest aerosol manufacturers don't make an effort to support true artists that use their products and lump everyone into that same "vandal" category.

p.s. Don't buy that idea paint dry erase fake advertising post on the front page. They are all hype and sell their product at a ridiculous price. I think they wanted something like $80/quart. here is a cheaper product: http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-On-White/dp/B000PGBCOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420211762&sr=8-1&keywords=rustoleum+dry+erase

Coyote Brown 12 Oz. Spray Paint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPH4SMU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

They make dry erase paint!

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-White/dp/B000PGBCOC

It's chalkboard paint.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush--White/dp/B000PGBCOC/

Yeah, I thought about that too after I posted my reply. Another possible option would be some flat black automotive exhaust system paint.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7578838-Professional-Performance-15-Ounce/dp/B000PIEWLA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1398391364&sr=8-5&keywords=black+spray+paint

It's painted on. You can make the board any size, shape, etc. I plan to do this for our son when he gets older.

This is it. It comes in black, white, gray, and red.

A can of black Grill Paint will tolerate the heat and cover that mark.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248903-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B003CT4AKC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414706936&sr=8-2&keywords=grill+paint

You just have to Jeep Proof your garage

What about chalkboard paint?

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-206540-Chalkboard-Brush-30-Ounce/dp/B0006BAEI6

This would keep the doors movable for any repairs, but would make the space look more purposeful with a contrast color.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-White/dp/B000PGBCOC

Which one of these sprays should I get to coat it?

1. 2, or 3?

Rust-Oleum 280882 Specialty Tub and Tile Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T82712Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_suZdBb0V6XJ8A

Also available in quarts.

just spray paint them

Awww yeah

Instead of that $130 kind, I used this $20 alternative which works fantastically. I made a table for D&D, and the entire tabletop is painted with this stuff. Used permanent marker to make a 1" grid via vertex dots, and the dots only sometimes come off when I use a magic eraser, which gets EVERYTHING else up.

Rust-Oleum 241140 Dry Erase Brush-On Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PGBCOC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_8PRPub0PB2RT0

I would suggest using some of that whiteboard paint or chalkboard paint for the top. Minimizes the number of pieces that can be lost by the drunks.

Clean your screen as good as you can. Cover everything but the screen and lightly hit it with this clear coat spray until you get a clean finish. It will fill in all of the cracks and give you a new finish. It will last for a couple months too while providing protection against further damage.

There is no way to permanently fix scratched glass.

I made one but I decided that I was going to go balls deep and try one of the most difficult designed mau5 heads out, the disco head. Long story short it cost me about ~$300 to make, not counting 2 others that I messed up on.

Materials:

-Head

-Eyes

-Head Mount

-Mouth Mesh

-[2] Led lights for coloring the eyes

-Superglue for mouth

-[2] Plastic glue for Headmount

-About [6-10] Rhine stone glue bottles

-[3] bags of Rhinestones

-Foam Ear material ---> With Ear template

-Washers -[4] Threaded Rods -Wing nuts

-Chrome Spray paint

-Lastly, Insulation Strips [White]

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Stuff I had: Dremel, stubbornness, no life, sharpies, too much free time.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Use any of the above tuts to get the general idea.

The template for the ears, (mine are huge).

Once the mouth is cut and you accounted for the eyes (pop the eyes in half and trace them on.)

Spray paint the whole head chrome, in light mist layers. The more layers the smoother the finish.

Once that's done, enjoy the 90+ hours of putting each rhinestone on, one by one.

Profit.

1. Acquire this.
   
2. Tape some shit
   
3. ???
   
4. Profit

make some chalkboards and have plenty of colored chalks.

linkin logs are way more fun than makes any sense, and very low mess. hurts less to step on than lego, and can be used as fuel in case of emergency.