(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best rv parts & accessories

I wanted these features:

• reversisble - blow out in the heat and pull in gently in the cold
  
• 10-speed rather than three for finer control and the ability to access a very low speed. Allows for minimal power use and constant use in all seasons for humidity control
  
• thermostat for varying fan speed automagically. I actually don't use this much because it can turn the fan off when it's cool and I want continuous operation
  
• built-in hood so I could run it in the rain without a ginormous doghouse cover on the roof. My van is already 8.5' tall.
  
• remote because my fan and bed are on opposite ends of the 12' living space. I keep it in the console when driving in case I forget to lower it before departure (safe, but noisy).
  
  This led me to the MaxxFan deluxe. It was expensive but completely worth it IMO.
  
  It has a design feature I didn't realize when I bought it. The fan sits down into a mount which is fixed to the roof and sealed. If you need to remove the fan for any reason you can lift it out of the mount and repair/replace/whatever in minutes. This would make repairs or warranty replacement much less of a hassle. I don't know if Fantastic does this or not. Perhaps a FF owner can chime in.
  
  I saved money on this kind of thing by starting camelcamelcamel watchlists on items I knew I'd need for the build. In this example, the fan I bought has varied by $51 dollars in the past year. CCC will alert you when the price drops to a point you specifiy.
  
  I also saved more than $40 on a foam mattress I wanted this way.
  
  Edited to add: I think the Maxx or FF are both excellent fans. Folks in smaller vans could probably do fine with a 3spd manual fan with no cover. There are also marine style mushroom and flat-ish vents with fans in them. There are also wind-powered vents that require no electrons at all. These latter types might fit under solar panels for a neat install.

Hey, good write-up thanks for sharing! I like the comparison chart you did with all the models.

I'd like to give a mention to Ventline fans because no one seems to know about them. They're less "RV" and more "food truck" style, but to someone on a budget, a fan is a fan, right?
Here's the one I have. They can be found as little as $60 shipped on Amazon (I only linked the more expensive one because it had a nicer picture) or $50 shipped on eBay. It's a much smaller fan than the Maxxairs or Fantastic Fans, but definitely worth consideration if you have a smaller space, have a slim power supply (I think it draws 0.5A), or are on a budget (heck, you could install TWO for less than some other brands!) They have other models too, but I think this is the best one of theirs for vandwellers.

I've got a compact RIMS machine that I built into a 19" toolbox. It's roughly the same idea as the one you linked, but all packaged up a bit tidier. I wrote a post about it a while back. Lemme find it.

Found it. Not everything necessarily relevant, but it's got a few details that helped some other folks.

> For something like a RIMS where you mostly just need to hold temperature, 110v is plenty. It's actually useful. The element is just a big resistor it doesn't really know or care what voltage runs through it. When you step down voltage by half, you actually quarter the power output (through the combination of Joule's and Ohm's laws, P=V^2 / R ). That means you can use low density elements intended for 220v operation and run them at quarter power on 110v and get super low watt densities.
>
> It's the wattage and how you distribute that through your wort that are the important parts. You want low density because you want to spread the heat out in your wort as much as possible. Higher wattage and higher density can lead to boiling and/or scorching in your tube. /u/GrizzlyBearKolsch had this problem with his setup. Luckily, his PID controller allowed him to adjust the timing enough to overcome it. I use a 220v, low-density, 4500W element, but I run it at 110v for about 1100W. It takes about half an hour to heat my strike and it fires for about half a second once every few seconds to maintain temperature. It's powerful enough to do the job, but gentle enough that it doesn't burn anything when running flat out.
>
> There are a couple of regular recommendations for PID controllers. Auber makes a well-built, well-documented model that basically the go-to for this kind of thing. If you want to spend a bit less and you're willing to put up with some really badly translated Chinese instructions, the Mypin TA4 also gets a decent amount of use.
>
> I'd recommend silicone tube for just about anything. Either three-eighths or half-inch depending on your preference. It's highly heat resistant, maintains its shape, and it's clear enough to see wort in it.
>
> Chugger or March are the perennial recommendations for pumps, but kind of overkill. I use a 12v DC solar pump for my setup. I've used this style for other builds and it has also worked pretty well. These lower power pumps are a decent fit for this kind of setup because they're compact and they're adequate flow but not so high that you need to bother throttling them.
>
> I use a separate heat stick for my boil kettle because my apartment stove can't quite boil 6+ gallons comfortably. It's a dead simple 1400W element hooked up through some drainage pipe. Just plug it in and it gets hot. Same as any other build you see on the Internet.

If you intend to run everything (AC, microwave, etc), you'll need a proper 30 amp RV extension cord. The regular cord / adapter will work to get the basics running, but be careful with the AC and other high draw items to ensure you don't overload / overheat it. One like this should work (but compare the ends to ensure that they match your outlet / cord): https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Extension-PowerGrip-Convenient-Carrying/dp/B004809YBE

 

If you're going to be stationary for the winter, and need that much hose, building a heated hose is your best bet. Search "diy rv heated hose" on Google, and you'll find lots of info on them (they're basically heat tape and pipe insulation).

 

The blower motor on the AC sounds exactly like the symptoms ours had just before the motor seized completely (a few days of screeching starts, and a few hand spins, then it seized completely). You'll have to double check the model that you have, but for our Coleman Mach I was able to order a new motor from Amazon for <$120, and change it myself. If I remember correctly, it was a bit of a pain to get it all apart, but it was just nuts, bolts, and screws, with a single electrical connection (be sure to turn the breaker off on to the AC unit first, and if you don't feel comfortable with electric or going on the roof, call a mobile RV tech, or take it somewhere).

 

Most propane places will sell tanks, as will BBQ / Fireplace places, RV dealers, and occasionally Costco. As someone else pointed out, Costco is about the cheapest for propane if you have one locally (and they have propane, not all of them do). If you are going to be stationary you might also check with a propane place about having a larger tank placed near the RV and connected, as it will save you some serious money / time dealing with refills over the winter. You can also check on local Buy / Sell groups or craigslist, but keep in mind that portable bottles have a date stamp and need to be re-certified every 5 years starting 12 years from their manufacture date (stamped on the side of the ring).

 

For the short queen mattress, we replaced ours with a memory foam one from Amazon. There are several manufacturers there that make them.

Amazon has a $25 car air mattress (link) , which fits into the back seat of your car. It would really help you sleep better, and you can get it delivered to an amazon locker since you don’t have an address.

Before I was in a tight money spot myself, I used to buy food or things like the mattress for people in the r/assistance and r/RandomKindness groups. The people there are super helpful, and you should definitely post a link (with other things too if you need). I know sleeping in a car sucks, so even this little thing would make it a little easier!

sure. which parts do you need more detail on?

so take an SCR controller. this one is nice as it has the digital display. that saves you with the bother of an ammeter or voltmeter. this will leave you with a dial control for increasing or decreasing power to your unit.

220 from your wall goes into the SCR. if you want it cheap get the power cord off of a craigslist (etc) free stove or dryer.

power out goes to your hot water tank element. they say that ultra low watt density is best. but low watt fold back ones are usually fine too.

your element screws into one of these . they are available from a number of suppliers.

to prepare the keggle, simply remove the spear, and then cut what is normally the bottom of the keg off (its quietest if you do this with the keg full. you might be able to find a disk to seal the ferrule up with, or even fill with water and then reinstall the spear, and do it upside down) now the sanke flange can be used as a 2" tri clamp ferrule. buy yourself a 2" TC clamp and gaskets

you'll need legs or a stand for the keggle. I'm sure you can figure that out.

now as that is you'll see that your hwt element sticks up the center of the keg from the bottom to about the middle of the keg. so. if you got yourself some 2" copper pipe - the same length as your element and hammer on an easy flange. for that basically you take a ballpeen hammer and work the ends down so that they are flat and 90° to the rest of the pipe. if that's a little thin for the TC clamp to attach to, you can put a hose clamp on it, and melt some solder in to beef it up. file it to shape and for smoothness. even better is if you can add a tee with at least a 1/2" but maybe as much as a 1" connection and then you get a bottom drain as well.

I have sold my Gobi rack and RTT. Thanks to the overlanding craze I actually flipped them for a profit.

I switched back to sleeping in the rear of my Jeep JKU 4 door. The seats fold nearly perfectly flat and combine with this.

Jeep JKU Sleeping Pad

It makes for an excellent sleeping space in the rear of the Jeep.

My biggest reason for doing this was I often explore and drive to hiking trailheads after setting up camp somewhere. The requirement to pack up the RTT every time I wanted to go hiking was not worth it anymore.

Lastly I do some rather extreme rock crawling trails and found the Jeep performed very poorly over boulders with the rack and RTT weight all up top. I found I would leave the RTT at home when doing a extreme trail and wish I didn’t even have the rack for those runs.

I've been living in my jeep Cherokee for about 2 months and have this . I have it in the passenger seat floor. Its an actual freezer/fridge, that's nicely low power and battery saver mode. Great for ice cream across Nevada. :-D

If I ever have a passenger its really light and easy to pop in the back and they have a seat.

• does fermcap-s count?
  
• you could fab a hop spider for less than $15
  
• RV style water filter or a drinking water hose
  
• maybe a cool piece of glassware from your favorite local brewery
  
• apple cider from the health food store in a 1 gallon glass jug
  
• 1 lb of gelatin from the health food store for fining
  
• a [turkey baster] for thieving samples and starting siphons
  
• an upgrade for your racking cane to stainless steel
  
• upgrade your tubing to silicone
  
• a nifty ball lock post adapter for cleaning beer lines

Thanks. I really appreciate it.

For sealing the holes, This stuff is super useful. It's expensive, but it'll seal up a hole for sure. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GOM2I8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For sealing the pop-top to the van I used butyl tape between the van and the top, so far no leaks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FHHCU3Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice! I fully recommend a truck bed tent and a truck bed air mattress. You increase the amount of free space in your camp spot tenfold.

I tried the classic way, the way others have suggested and it would just not get the air out of the system. So I bought this and it has worked fantastic for me. I've used it multiple time now on my and friends bike and it works great.

First, my needs:

1. Power 1/2 LED monitors at ~30W each
   
2. Occasionally charge laptop
   
3. LED lighting
   
4. 2 Maxxair fans
   
   
   Second, the components:
   
   Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
   
   Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
   
   Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
   
   Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
   
   2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
   
   Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
   
   Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
   
   Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
   
   Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
   
   Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
   
   Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
   
   Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
   
   Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
   
   Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
   
   Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
   
   Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
   
   Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
   
   Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
   
   
   I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
   
   Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!

I’ve got a rock wood premier, 2018. Assuming they’re pretty similar, I’ve got a bit of a wacky setup for my grey water. For the shower drain, I use this:

Valterra Black T01-0091VP Swivel Drain Connector-90°, 1-1/2" x 3/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MTREC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qignDbNYV2HMN

To connect to a regular hose that I run to this:

Barker (11104) Tote Tank - 22 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B61TPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rlgnDb95MB2C0.

For the sink grey water I connect a brass 90 degree elbow to a 3 foot hose (if the hose is too long your sink won’t drain) to this:

Barker Manufacturing Company 10887 Barker 5 Gallon Tote-Along Drain Water Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B61TP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mqgnDbNK22E51.

The sink 5 gallon tank is too small, I have to drain it every couple of days. The whole setup is a little difficult and I want to figure out a way to run it all to one tank instead of two. Just as a heads up, measure the shower drain pipe, it’s smaller than the one most RVs have, so if you buy a tank with a hose, it probably won’t fit. Might have to look for an adapter of some type.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you’ve got more questions, hopefully I’ve already made all the mistakes and can save you some headache. Also, check out popupportal.com. Lots of knowledgeable folks there.

These things work pretty darn good too. Not sure for how long and I suggest bringing a roll of good clear packing tape, but comfortable for the most part.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012ZOI44C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are awesome, fairly bright and a nice warm color, low power draw too.

What about Neodymium magnets? we use them all over our van to hold stuff.

oh yeah, and if he slaps one of these on a flat part of his saw, it is great for training a person to get nice, level backcuts and pies.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25543-T-Level/dp/B000EDSSDO/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=52VWB27B15RKJRTB0J66

I used one for log home construction, (cutting in windows) but decided to keep it on my saw because it was fun to check myself to see how level and square i could get my saw.

I also noticed that your rear stabilsers do not appear to have sand pads. These help distribute the load better and you don't sink. I would also recommend one for your hitch. Also, in of itself that wood blocking is going to be rocky.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Stabilizing-Base-Pads-Cross-Frame/dp/B0024E6Z9U/

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-1400700340-Footplate-Pin/dp/B005DLLVMW/


But as another stated, I also use the BAL X chocks and really like them. Although.... a little too much side to side motion in the ocean can cause them to work themselves out. There is a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/

I would get a dash cam for starters. I personally like to keep my interior clean, aside from audio upgrade in the future, I only have all weather floor mats, collapsible cargo storage & cargo net for the trunk. However, I'm planning to do a lot on the exterior since I plan to do a lot of camping & off roading.

What it currently looks like right now: https://i.redd.it/k9lez1u607931.jpg

ARB Awning 2000: https://www.amazon.com/ARB-4x4-Accessories-Awning-2000/dp/B00MI3V7YA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=arb+awning+2000&qid=1562902808&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Awning Clamps: https://www.gziladesigns.com/products/awning-mounting-clamps

Rola V-Tex Roof Basket: https://www.amazon.com/59504-V-Tex-Rooftop-Cargo-Basket/dp/B004R34HDC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=rola+vortex&qid=1562902837&s=gateway&sr=8-2

They make air mattresses specifically for truck beds, this one is $120 and has worked great in my experience 4 times out. You can use a basic tarp to cover the truck bed (Like this ) or you can buy a truck bed tent like this one which is $180. No experience with this one, but the concept is pretty much the same across the board.

I converted a utility trailer to a camper. Not that hard. Some insulation and paneling, carpet for the floor, a little pump sink cabinet with a space underneath for a marine toilet, and some kind of propane heater and stove setup.

I use two gallon kerosene cans heated on my stove for showers. I put them on the roof and run water down inside with a solar shower nozzle and siphon bulb. All you need is shallow wooden pan to stand in and drain the water below. I catch the water in this, so I'm self-contained and I have even stayed in a regular RV park right next to fancy motor homes.

Then put in a cot, cooler, storage boxes for your clothes and other stuff, and that's pretty much all you need.

By far the hardest part is the insulation and paneling, but you have to do it to stay warm in cold weather. So if you can find a trailer or van that's already insulated it will be much easier.

That is, with almost complete certainty, due to air in your lines, Those are classic symptoms. Buy a hand vacuum brake bleeder and bleed your brakes! Might as well replace the fluid whilst you're at it, since you're going to need some on hand in case you need to top it up.

The two jacks in the rear are like this.

The bases for those jacks are like this.

The jack in the front is like [this] (http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m6gEYG4Pn04KSHCR1cztNNA.jpg)

Later on I will try what you said but since it’s the first time I will play it safe plus I’m on a very tight budget.

I saw this cheap on but it also comes in 1/2 inch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ME11FS/

I’m not sure what standard would be.

> Fantastic vent fan insulating pillow

like this?

I can get about an $8k tax credit where i live for this elextric vehicle so just a littlr more expensive. The minivan can plug into a regular household outlet. It just takes 12-14 hours to charge instead of the 2.

I don't suppose that means I can plug into a regular rv hookup. With an adapter like the one below maybe? There are also public charge stations available though I think they are spaced out

Yes, the 33 miles travel limit before it kicks into gas is limited. Is there another electric hybrid that can go further before it uses gas even if it's a little smaller?

If I bought a fuel based vehicle, I'd probably buy a used one. It was the electric aspect and the large battery that attracted me to this vehicle.

EDIT: Yeah, that 33 mile range is a real killer. Gonna have to look at some other electric vehicles.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00192QB3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502808578&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=15+amp+to+30+amp+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41d6fEwak1L&ref=plSrch

Here you go!

RV Boat Recessed Ceiling Light 4 Pack Acegoo Super Slim LED Panel Light DC 12V 3W Full Aluminum Downlights, Warm White (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012ZOI44C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tfOQybKENJ2DE

I've had good luck sealing sliced-open metal roofing with eternabond
tape. It copes with thermal movement of the panels and has stayed waterproof for years.

This. +1 for the boom attachment that lets your put your camera almost anywhere.

Also it doesn't hurt to attach a cheap bubble level to your rig so you can confirm that your camera is horizontal.

Add a hairband and a binder clip to attach your tether cable to your shirt to ease the tension of the weight of the cable pulling at the back of your head and you've pretty much nailed my setup.

My biggest discovery for the interior mods has been with molle attachment systems, including molle seat covers. I also have these for either side's roll bars

Teraflex cargo rack

Trailgater

Xprite sleeping pad

More than anything it's been with the molle gear though, because it makes storage work very easily.

I have a Dometic CF-35 that draws 4 Amps when running (48W) but it only runs 1/4 or less of the time, so that would come close to your requirement.

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX-35US-Portable-Electric-Refrigerator/dp/B00T36NUYA/

But, it's pretty large.

The CF-18 is somewhat smaller outside: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-018-D65-B-Portable-Refrigerator-Personal/dp/B0136TQ65Y/

The CF-10 is smaller, still: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-018-D65-B-Portable-Refrigerator-Personal/dp/B005X97OHA/

Probably your best bet:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005X97OHA/

That won't work, unfortunately.
A solar panels' 'nameplate' power is only produced in cool weather and the panel pointed to the (overhead) sun.

Enter San Diego into http://pvwatts.nrel.gov/, change "DC System Size (kW):" to "0.1" (100W), and change "Tilt (deg):" to "" (horizontal), on the last page you'll see the monthly" production under "AC Energy (kWh)", divide by 31 to get the daily numbers (the juli/aug 16kWh is 500Wh/day), and your 60W cooler needs 60W x 24hr = 1440Wh/day (thermoelectric coolers are very inefficient).
More expensive are compressor coolers, 3A average according to "customer comments", and (they say) it will 'freeze' stuff in 1 hour, if your "need to keep something cool" can handle ambient temperatures like can/bottle beverages you can install a timer to run it only at let's say 11:00-13:00 for lunch and 16:00-22:00 for dinner.

>so I have decided to use whatever I will have for solar system as my starting battery

Bad choice, a 'starter' battery is designed to give a very high 500A? 'starting' current (thin plates for a very large surface area), a 'deep cycle' has fewer but much thicker plates for a current of ~1/10th the capacity (12A from a 120Ah battery).

There are ways to charge the 'domestic' battery from the car alternator, example (pdf) uses diodes, to find out if a particular setup will damage the deep-cycle I suggest you google-fu RV/boat-users websites (the -shops* only want to sell things).

If you like electronics, or know someone (highschool tech dept.?), a small CC-CV buck-boost converter's input can be connected directly (via a fuse) to the (12V) panel, the output, via a diode, to the starter battery, the "CC" (constant current) will limit that to whatever you set it (0,5A?) and the "CV" can be set to 13.8V? (max starter battery voltage), that will keep it 'topped up' from the solar panel without draining the domestic battery.

You do need a 'battery charge controller', an MPPT is recommended.

Edit: word

We are most likely going to roll the dice with a generator. I have had good experiences with them in the past so I hope it hold up.

But, this is the 50' that was recommended to me in the RV community... Your RV will come with 25' already and no one reported needing more than that last year from what I read, FYI.

Camco Heavy Duty RV Auto Extension Cord with PowerGrip Handle, Includes Convenient Carrying Strap - 50ft (10 Gauge, 30 Amp) (55197) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004809YBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c96UBbE4B439Y

Okay so question because I’m currently hooked up at a family members house with our first rig. In her backyard (where were parked) she has a septic system with two outlets (both on separate breakers, both 20AMP). One of the outlets is for the alarm and other for the pump. So I have our rig plugged into the alarm (20AMP) breaker. I run a 50ft Camco 30AMP extension cord from there (connected to the outlet using a 30AMP to 15amp small adapter, like no cord just a small 2” or so box) to the extension cord coming from the TT. Is this unsafe? If so what should I do to remedy it? I can’t get an 30AMP outlet installed here. And we won’t be staying long term, but we have to run the AC (on low) while were gone for the pets. We haven’t had an issue, just when we need to use something power heavy well turn something off in exchange. Like if we need the water heater, turn off the AC, need to microwave then turn off the water heater, etc. been here for about a month now and have only popped the breaker twice (both instances from leaving the AC while taking a shower and the water heater kicked on).

Edit:Links and formatting (took me a minute lol)

The black ones definitely let in less light, but if you are simply looking to insulate and block light cheaply and without installing anything these work great.

Ya, I got this maxxfan, and its awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2UU8RSRECPQHN&coliid=I2LUBUXBM72U8S&psc=1

I sat and watched it through a bad thunderstorm in Tennessee, and no rain came in. Love this thing.

What's that? I've only had my rover for about a week, so I'm still new on all the options.

This is kind of the awning I was looking at for an awning. https://amzn.com/B00MI3V7YA

Any suggestion is appreciated!

Is that like a normal fridge with Freon and a compressor, or is it the gas absorption style like what you'd find in an RV? Just curious since Dometic makes portable gas absorption refrigerators/freezers that look similar to what you've got. https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-080AC110-Portable-Refrigerator-Capacity/dp/B005X97OHA?th=1 Not sure what the 11 liter one draws, but the largest one draws 7 amps at 12VDC

I am using these round flush mount LED fixtures. I have seen numerous other builds with them as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012ZOI44C/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am also using some warm led strip and red led strip in a few places

How about 330$? Ive had this for 3 years now, works a champ. I keep it as a fridge but for a few months i cranked up to freezer temps and could even keep ice cream solid.

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-018-D65-B-Portable-Refrigerator-Personal/dp/B0136TQ65Y

I still had 3 or 4 bars of charge left. I think it's not pulling the 240v with the second adapter. It seems like it's taking 2 hours for a quarter charge.

Something like this should work for a sedan: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CDF-11-Smallest-Portable-Refrigerator/dp/B005X97OHA

Lived in Madison, WI last winter in my RV. You will need heat tape around your black water tank and piping. As for the water hose, heat tape with insulation for that or buy an extra fancy hose with it already inside. There is also black tank antifreeze we used that we found at Menards for a couple bucks. To go around the outside of the rv you will need either some sort of skirting, or insulation panels. The goal is not to let wind gusts under your rv. We used clear duct tape and white tarp around our entire trailer held down with PVC pipes and cinder blocks. Inside if you have a patio door you will need to heat tape around it because it will freeze shut and the only way to open it will be with a blow dryer. Plastic window shrink wrap all windows, and put a blanket over doors you don't use. Use these vent pillows.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024E6QX0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509510577&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rv+vent+pillow&dpPl=1&dpID=31oBzadZDDL&ref=plSrch.

Make sure your heater works (ours had a frog in it and had to be replaced). This will get you through a winter with sub zero temps.

If its above freezing during the day and barely below freezing at night you won't need to be this extreme. Heat tape and/or leaving the water run just a bit would do the trick.

Maxxair 00-06200K MaxxFan Ventillation Fan with Smoke Lid and Manual Opening Keypad Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WmimDb9JE62K0

It is likely that they are also standard duplex outlets at the power box along with the 50 amp plug. In the rare instance that this isn't the case at any RV supply store you can purchase a converter to go from a 30 amp or 50 amp circuit to a standard outlet. Shouldn't be more than $2-3. Just make sure to bring a strip plug along with it as it will be the only outlet.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55233-Electrical-PowerGrip-Adapter/dp/B00192QB3I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410314617&sr=8-1&keywords=30+amp+to+20+amp+adapter

[MaxxFan 6200k](maxxair 00-06200k maxxfan ventillation fan with smoke lid and manual opening keypad control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nHrRCbC04J1EH)

I like using a hose specifically designed for drinking water. I have one on my RV and the water never tastes like "hose" even when the water sits in the hose for days.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-22783-TastePURE-Drinking-Water/dp/B004ME11FS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495550996&sr=8-2&keywords=camco+water+hose

Stumbled across this post while ensuring I had the cable I needed to power our RV. There's a 50 foot that uses the connector specified by Insomniac on amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004809YBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The guy at my rental place said there's no issue with plugging two cables together except to be mindful of the amount of power draw due to the cable length (e.g. don't run microwave, ac and a hairdryer all at once).

First off you don't necessarily want to use any screws... With the maxair, you cut a square hole and fit in the trim piece. To cut a hole you just need tinsnips and a screwdriver/knife and a hammer/rock to make the first hole. I wouldn't let anyone take a saw to it and put metal shavings all over your house... Just go buy some tin snips, $5.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-straight-cut-aviation-tin-snips-90718.html . Cuts through like butter. Power tools are not always better.


Trace your hole and cut, as long as you have your butyl tape and dicor sealant and fan you will see that spending $375 is wholly unnecesary and hazardous imo. You could end up with a bunch of leaky & unnecessary screw holes, metal shavings all over, a hole cut too big, they probably won't know how to work with the ribs correctly... You need to cut it like this: http://www.seanstoops.com/img/build/build_3_.jpg so that it will sit flush with the roof. Very simple and clever. More leakproof design. http://www.seanstoops.com/2016/01/26/roof-vent/

Unless you live in the desert I suggest a maxxair. I'm getting this one. It lets in light, works in the rain, even while all the way down.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Get a drinking water hose. Makes brewing outdoors a lot more convenient.

Garden hoses give garden hose flavors. You need to purchase a [food grade water hose.] (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22783-TastePURE-Drinking-Water/dp/B004ME11FS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419776783&sr=8-1&keywords=Food+grade+water+hose)

30 AMP Extension Cord: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004809YBE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could attach an awning to your roof rack. There are different sizes and styles available.

It needs to be a cable with a thick enough AWG to handle 30A and it needs to have the correct connectors on it. This is an example of what (I am assuming) is needed.

I use one of the drinking water hoses... http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22783-TastePURE-Drinking-Water/dp/B004ME11FS/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1419784454&sr=1-2&keywords=drinking+water+hose

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-4x4-Accessories-Awning-2000/dp/B00MI3V7YA

I literally posted this thread yesterday:

https://www.reddit.com/r/CampEDC/comments/biwoof/hey_rv_campers_just_a_reminder_if_you_bought_the/

You will need one, they will not have it there for you. The onboard may not be long enough.

Yes, buy one.

https://www.amazon.com/acegoo-Recessed-Ceiling-Aluminum-Downlights/dp/B012ZOI44C?th=1

This is what I found.

Thoughts?

Power Cable

This is strange. At every campground I've ever been to the power pole at the very minimum has a standard 110 (15 or 20 amp) volt outlet. Usually there is also a 30 amp outlet and less often a 50 amp outlet too. Maybe ask them for a photo of their power connections.

Otherwise you can use and adapter such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55233-Electrical-PowerGrip-Adapter/dp/B00192QB3I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495037845&sr=8-4&keywords=rv+30+amp+to+15+adapter

My grandmother lives in a town that has no public chargers. I would probably have to get one of these, drive around to the back of the house, open the basement window, and plug into the dryer outlet. (I have really thought about this.)