Reddit mentions: The best safety masks & respirators

A good drill is key. It's silly to stick to one brand (many people have the bs brand loyalty fetish and I'm not sure why). You'll also want to get a variety of drill bits to go with drill. Go to garage sales and start hoarding nails, screws, etc at cheap prices.

My recommendations below are based on at least 5 hours of research and shopping around. There are some things I'd probably add to the list (like a hand saw and dremel) but this takes care of a lot of your big needs. I own everything on the list and am pleased with it all, especially in terms of a performance for value ratio.

The key is know what you want then shop around / wait for the best prices (track prices in spreadsheet). Use google shopping to compare prices and see who price matches plus has best ebates or Ibotta cash back % + consider buying gift cards at a discount on Raise or elsewhere to further maximize savings (or just go with whatever credit card gets best points on particular site). Add Google Chrome app "Honey" to have coupon codes auto applied (eliminates time searching for them).

Also, I'd strongly consider getting a credit card with a decent bonus that will essentially help you get these items for free (assuming you can achieve the bonus spend with money you're already paying on existing bills / monthly purchases - it's a no-brainer in this case) - Chase's Sapphire Preferred is a good place to start ($500 bonus for 4K spend in 3 months)

Consider waiting until Black Friday (and from Jan to end of feb) for the good deals.

Drill (get a decent to really good one - you'll use it often)

• This one goes on sale for $99 on BF though you may be able to find it elsewhere for that price or cheaper now:
  
• Makita XPH102 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2" Hammer Driver-Drill Kit (3.0Ah): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L84A470/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Wv.BzbSZ9FGJH
  
  Circular Saw
  
• cordless is usually unnecessary - this one goes on sale for ~$70 on BF:
  
• Hitachi C7ST 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QESNMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vy.BzbT32M7T2
  
• honestly I haven't used this as much as a muti-tool but many DIY blogs say you need one... not sure I agree but it nice to know I have it
  
  Multi-tool
  
• This one goes on sale for ~$99 on BF - there are cheaper ones but I like this one a lot and it has a lot of power and attachments:
  
• Rockwell RK5151K 4.2 Amp Sonicrafter F80 Oscillating Multi-Tool with Duotech Oscillation Angle Technology and 10-Piece Accessory kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HD4EQTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EA.BzbQ9KM4AQ
  
  Miter saw
  
• I've used this more than circular saw - it's much more accurate and fast for most jobs - went back and forth about getting a saw with a larger blade but ultimately decided 10in is enough for most jobs and I've been correct in that assumption so far:
  
• Hitachi C10FCE2 15-Amp 10-inch Single Bevel Compound Miter Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UF.Bzb0CFWDHT
  
• paid ~$99 by buying on Jet and getting their 15% off first three orders + Ibotta 5% cash back
  
  Respirator
  
• may seem like overkill but don't fuck with your lungs: GVS SPR457 Elipse P100 Half Mask Respirator, Medium and Large
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HD.BzbREVSMX6
  
  Horse (the 'roided out version)
  
• this has come in really handy for me as it often helps to get stuff done without extra help:
  
• Rockwell JawHorse Portable Material Support Station – RK9003 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XRFQKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0E.Bzb9V02GJV
  
  Sander (makes a huge difference): I've seen it in the low $40 range
  
• DEWALT D26441 2.4 Amp 1/4 Sheet Palm Grip Sander with Cloth Dust Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009WRKUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wW.Bzb3CAWTZ9

> The Lathe:

Sounds like you've got this well under control.

> The Tools:

There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)

Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!

You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.

There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.

If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.

Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.


> The Bench Grinder:

The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.

Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.

Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).

> Drill Press?

A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.

The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).

The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.

> Pen turning attachments

• Mandrel savers are a separate purchase.
  
  
• Be warned that barrel trimmers are not universal, they come in different sizes and some pen kits use a sleeve to up-size the trimmer to fit the larger tube.
  
  
• You can use epoxy or CA glue, whichever you prefer to glue tubes. If using CA glue, make sure you buy a spray bottle of accelerator so that you can zap the ends to prevent a dripping mess!
  
  
• Any general sandpaper from a home improvement store will work fine, don't need anything fancy or expensive. Quite a few of us purchased the $40 box from Klingspor's which is enough sandpaper to last me several years.
  
  
• A P100 filter dust mask is a good investment as well for safety gear.
  
  
• FINISH: If you plan to use CA glue as your finish, you need a different viscosity (thin) than what you use to glue the tubes (thick). This means you need to buy two different bottles of CA and look into a pack of MicroMesh sanding pads for polishing the CA finish.
  
  If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.
  
  
• SAW: You need a way to cut pen blanks and trim off excess waste. If you don't own any cutting tools that are sufficient for the job, a cheap miter box will do the job just fine. Make sure you clamp the box and the blank down well before sawing!

I love projects like this. Your furnishings feel much more your own, and they take on a sense of permanence you can't get with big box furnishings.

A heat gun and putty knives work very well to remove the stickers. Use a low setting, don't keep the heat focused on one area for too long and keep an eye out for browning, singeing, smoking, and fire. You've got lots of space to work with so skip around to allow the wood to cool. You'll potentially be removing whatever finish is on the couch if you are too heavy handed and or use too much heat. If you plan on refinishing use the heat gun and putty knife to remove the finish.

You can try just scraping with a razor blade to remove most of the stickers and then saturating the area with full strength degreaser, such as D-Limonene.covering the area with a paper towel to keep the degreaser in place.

A couple of razor tools to consider: 4" wide short handled for large areas with thick layers of stickers. Smaller razor scrapers with metal and plastic blades. Plastic detail scrapers might be useful too.

Instead of using Goo Gone I like pure D-Limonene solution. It's a potent degreaser extracted from citrus peels and contains no petroleum distillates, unlike Goo Gone. It also comes in food safe solution - though to be safe for digestion it really does need to be quite dilute.

Use the putty knife and rags or gauze to clean the adhesive from the wood. Large Woven Gauze Sponges are more scratchy and will give more traction with absorption. Rolled Stretch Gauze Bandages have the same great absorbing properties but they're softer and great for detail work. You'll get to know what you prefer - I'm partial to gauze sponges. They're cheap and I just toss them into the compost bin as long as they aren't too bummed up with adhesive top.


To remove the degreaser dish soap and rubbing alcohol work well. I like Dr Bronner's castile soap diluted for dishwashing. Wipe down with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. You should be good to move on to your next step, probably sanding and smoothing, patching any holes or gouges to prep for staining and finishing or painting.

I linked a whole bunch of products to give you an idea of what will work for certain applications. There are definitely other ways to achieve the same goals, this is just how I tackle this task. Please don't order everything listed here at once, see what works from you. I link Amazon because they have everything but locally owned small businesses are an invaluable resource and great when you get stuck in a project.

Don't forget your PPE'S!

Dust Mask - I like this one as you can vacuum the filters out to extend the life and reduce waste. It has a smaller profile too - my husband actually doesn't complain about wearing it, just puts it on.

N95 Respirator
Replacement filters available on Amazon

Comfortable Safety Glasses or Goggles

Heat Resistant Gloves

Long Cuff Gloves Disposable

Some type of work gloves

Good luck!

I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.

I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!

​

Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.

​

• Airbrush - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQKFAI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Compressor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDNKBMC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (One of the quietest compressors - I use it in the house and my gf can't hear it kick on, and she sleeps in the room right above it.)
  
• Airbrush Hose - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BF7NJ78/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Moisture Trap - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQO8WY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Couplers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TFE7WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Didn't need this big of a set, but if you end up with tools for the compressor they will come in handy.)
  
• Airbrush Cleaner kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3MG6Z4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Respirator - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Extra Filters - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTP9MDO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TJA0S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Thinner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X6DTHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Improver - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QD780G0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Primer I use for minis - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BMZVMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  For the compressor, I keep mine at about 18-20 while doing miniatures and it's perfect.
  
  I do 1 drop Improver, 5 drops thinner, and 6 drops primer and have perfect flow.
  
  ​
  
  Feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
  
  Hvstle

This really depends on a lot of things. The kitchen is usually the primary source of indoor air pollution. I have a PM2.5 monitor and cooking bacon and eggs puts it off the chart. It's extremely important to have good ventilation when you cook (which most kitchens don't have). I've also encountered terrible indoor air quality around town in restaurants, etc.

If you live in Salt Lake and don't want to die young a HEPA filter is a sound investment. They are not crazy expensive and I've verified with my particulate counter that they do work very well. I have purchased probably a dozen of this one because its cheap and effective but there are other options that are more quiet. I have two in my home and the rest around the office or given away to friends. They have an updated model that I have not used here. I will sometimes travel with one if its convenient.

While I'm on the subject. This is unrelated to what you said but here is some more pertinent info about Utah air quality:

Car air filters surprisingly do a good job and I read very low pm2.5 concentrations even when driving down i-15 on an inversion day in traffic, but there are also air scrubbers designed to run off the 12v in your car.

If you're going outside for longer than 15 minutes and especially if you are exercising, wear a P100 rated mask such as this one.

During inversion season I take my air quality meter around and test all over the place and post the results to twitter if anyone is interested. The numbers reported by the state are accurate in the sense that they give a baseline by which to measure trends over time, but they are completely inaccurate in terms of what you will actually encounter when you go outside. You can expect to encounter up to DOUBLE what the state reports. A local hero has set up a network of sensors that will give you a better idea of what is going on. You can find the info at purpleair.org you can also host your own sensor.

Thousands of people are dying each year due to our poor air quality. It is taking YEARS off of our lives. So the last thing I'm going to say is please support initiatives to expand public and alternative transportation, promote clean energy, and to eliminate major sources of pollution in the valley. Demand from your candidates that they make air quality a priority. Other cities around the world have made real positive impacts on their air quality just by trying, so it's not impossible.

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

a post I made last year:

I have tried

• Respro Sportsta
  
• 3M 8511 Particulate N95 Respirator
  
• 3M 8233 Particulate N100 Respirator
  
• 3M 6391 P100 Reusable Respirator Gas Mask
  
  
  The Respro is okay. Certainly the only stylish one i tried. One common feature of the masks is a moldable metal nose piece, that allows you to shape the mask to your face. The one on the respro is both the most durable, and the worst. Its stiffness makes it tough to form and reform. That said, the seal it forms seems to be fine, but getting a really good fit is hard, because it lacks a strap that goes over the ear. I'm sure you can get this style of mask in n99 or whatever.
  
  The 3M n95 is the cheapest (by far), and the lightest. The fit is good, and the seal is adequate, although the seal is the worst of the four. The filter is more stiff like paper.
  
  The 3M n100 is probably my favorite so far. The filter is more flexible like cotton. I generally don't worry about crushing it in my bag, except for the metal nose piece. The fit and seal are both excellent.
  
  The 3M p100 is certainly the most hardcore. It's cost is the highest, but the replacement filters are cheap enough. I haven't used it much, but it's the one that the bicycle collective sells, which I consider to be a good marker.
  
  
  Also I recently reached out to the American Lung Association about masks. Here is the last, most detailed response.
  
  > USEPA sets a PM 2.5 annual air quality standard at 15ug/m3
  This is a rolling 12 month average. There is also a 24 hour limit of 35ug/m3
  These numbers are established for air quality in the air shed and not necessarily in the breathing zone – which is the most item relevant to your question.
  These numbers are not extractable to breathing zone concentrations.
  A healthy person should not have a need for any respirators, the respirator is recommended for those with impaired systems.
  In addition, lung cancer is complex and there are other factors, which include air quality (type of pollutant), genetic disposition, and duration of exposure.
  
  
  > Saying all this, it’s hard to make a recommendation on when to use the N95 disposable respirator to prevent lung cancer (knowing that the three factors above play a large role in the equation and outcome). If in doubt, or if you feel there is a need, wear the respirator (with proper fit) when there are air quality concern days).

I totally understand, in that case here are some things.

If you don't already have a set of 1/4" impact bits I highly recommend the Makita impact gold series, three options from $15-$30. Good strong bits good for everything not just impact drivers.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-Gold-Drive-Bit-Set-40-Piece-B-65383/305513416

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-Gold-Steel-Driver-Bit-Set-26-Piece-B-46919/206284602

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-Driver-Bit-Set-38-Piece-B-52370/207104796

Their 1/2" and 3/8" wobble adapters are nice, you can get them by themselves, or in a pack with standard or metric impact sockets. $4-$5 by themselves or $15 with the sockets.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-1-2-in-15-Degree-Tilt-Socket-Adapter-B-35081/203696909

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-3-8-in-15-Degree-Tilt-Socket-Adapter-B-35075/203696899

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-3-8-in-6-Point-Fractional-Standard-Impact-Socket-Set-with-15-Degree-Tilt-Socket-Adapter-9-Pieces-B-34833/203612037

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-3-8-in-6-Point-Metric-Impact-Socket-Set-with-15-Tilt-Socket-Adapter-9-Piece-B-49862/206284603

This Makita Impact GOLD Ultra-Magnetic Torsion Insert Bit Holder is also excellent. $5

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-Ultra-Magnetic-Torsion-Insert-Bit-Holder-B-35097/203696915

How are you set for razor knives? The Milwaukee FASTBACK Compact is my daily and I love it. It does have one flaw, if you hold the blade section in a certain way for detail cutting you can depress the blade release. But once you get used to it it has not been a problem for me. $9

They have a special buy going in my area for the Fastback Flip, Fastback Compact Flip, and 50 blades for $15.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-FASTBACK-Compact-Flip-Utility-Knife-48-22-1906/206994464

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Fastback-Flip-Utility-Knife-Set-with-Utility-Blades-50-Pack-48-22-1901J/302283894

How about pliers. I love these tiny Cobras, they were part of my EDC at my last job. $26

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-5-in-Mini-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-125-SBA/203202210

6" models only $1 more. $27

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-6-in-Mini-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-150/100668977

7" only another $1. $28

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-7-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-180/100668967

Very very tough diagonal cutters. $35

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-10-in-High-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutters-with-64-HRC-Cutting-Edge-74-01-250/100668970

For when you need a bit more oomph than your standard cutters, Mini bolt cutters. $44

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-8-in-Cobolt-Lever-Action-Compact-Bolt-Cutter-64-HRC-Forged-Steel-71-01-200/100668975

The classic Swedish style pipe wrench, always make for an interesting conversation piece. $46

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-12-in-Heavy-Duty-Pipe-Wrench-83-10-010/205944412

How are you set for PPE? I wear this respirator for 8 hours a day 5 days a week and I love it, after a few minutes you forget your even wearing it. And its super easy to just un-latch to speak to people then pop it back on.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Medium-Paint-Project-Respirator-with-Quick-Latch-Mask-6502QLPA1-A-NA/207061064

Without filters at amazon. $19

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IF7RCU6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Home depot does not sell the filters I use, but amazon does. $11

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009POHH94/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are only particulate filters so if you do a lot of painting the set from home depot with the VOC filters would be better.

For hearing protection I had been using a set of 3M Peltor Optime 105's until I upgraded recently to a combo of 3M Peltor WS Alert XP's and 3M Peltor CH-5 High Attenuation Headset. The 105's offer extremely good protection for the money.

3M Peltor Optime 105 $20

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Earmuff-Protectors-Hearing-Protection/dp/B00009LI4K

If there are any specific categories of tools you would like a recommendation on let me know.

Let me just get the safety information since that's super important and a discord server has is on command
>Clear coat
The most commonly used & recommended clear coat here is the USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss Clearcoat found here: https://amzn.to/2O0oZRB
It is also available in Matte and Semi-Gloss and all three types are highly recommended. In general, 2K clear coats will hold up much better than 1K, and will protect your work for years. Use of a standard 1K clearcoat will result in a finish that will wear off extremely quickly from use and leave you with a ruined paintjob.
Note: A couple things you need to know about USC 2K and all other 2K clearcoats.

>1. USC Spray Max 2K has a roughly 48 hour pot life. After this window has passed the clear coat will be unusable, so it's recommended you clear coat in batches.

>2. A can can typically cover 3 controllers, 3.5/4 if you're good about spraying efficiently.

>3. You must use safety equipment when using any 2k clearcoat. 2K clearcoats are HIGHLY TOXIC!*
3a. Wear a respirator, goggles, gloves, and a full body paint suit (preferably with a hood).
3b. Use light layers and work outdoors or in a professionally ventilated workshop (i.e. dedicated garage).
3c. Do not spray or leave to cure in an area where people or pets can breathe the fumes. This includes the full cure time as 2k gives off dangerous fumes until fully cured. Even very light exposure can make you sick.

>Please use the command !ccsafety to see more information
CustomGCC staff and members are NOT RESPONSIBLE if anything goes wrong.

!ccsafety info
>Respirator
Most painters in CustomGCC use the 3M Disposable Organic Vapor Respirator or similar, found here: https://amzn.to/2Nrz10Z
The cartridges on this mask are nonreplaceable and have a max use time of 8 hours before they're inneffective in protecting you, this means you must replace this mask every 8 hours of active use.
The filters also get used up just sitting around in the open air, so make sure you store it in an airtight bag between uses if you want to get the full 8 hours out of it.

>For a re-usable mask and replacement filters these are good options:
Mask
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Comfort-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B01DU2ZPHW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527054681&sr=8-5&keywords=respirator
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JZ1MK6/ref=psdc_2257619011_t3_B00IF7RAP8

>Filters
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-60923-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B00AEFCKKY/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=organic%2Bvapor%2Brespirator&qid=1556003582&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1&psc=1

>Other Necessary Protection
Make sure to wear safety goggles, nitrile or similar gloves, and wear long sleeves/pants to prevent the 2k getting on your skin. Any clothes worn while spraying should be immediately changed out of and washed to prevent any chemical being absorbed by your skin.
A Tyvek paint suit is highly recommended: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VMU2SN4?pf_rd_p=f3acc539-5d5f-49a3-89ea-768a917d5900&pf_rd_r=QCS32SZFBER5RSNBE34X

>For a full writeup on respirators and safety gear please check this link:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/13aNeXXbrsHRQ14O4L9qJy682otQVSmGREF5aQ1I-I9I/edit?usp=sharing

Here are tips:

1. Buy a good mask, not the disposable ones. Something like this 3M Rugged Comfort Quick Latch Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator 6502QL, Gases, Vapors, Dust, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RBS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9NxWDbDR259KX with p100 filters.
   
   
2. For entering and exiting, considering making a air gap room out of plastic and make sure it’s sealed with a zip wall or something on both ends. Plaster dust is very fine and it will get everywhere. They make knock off zip wall zippers on amazon.
   
   
3. What are you doing for the floors? If you need to protect them I would use at least one layer of ram board or better.
   
   
4. I assume you are getting a dumpster. Plaster is super heavy and depending on how strict your dumpster company is, they may charge you more if you attempt to fill the dumpster up more than half way with with plaster. If you can swing it, consider getting a bigger size than you think you need. Usually there isn’t a huge price difference between the sizes.
   
   
5. For actually taking down the plaster, here is my method. I use two black plastic cement mixing tubs next to each other pressed up against the bottom of the wall. I use a crow bar to make an entry point in the plaster and then I use the crow bar to put behind the plaster down the wall, riding the lathe. When one of the bins is full, I empty it directly into a contractor trash bag. They fit perfectly in the bags. Plaster is heavy and messy, and putting in these bags makes it easy to move and/or go through a house with them or throw them out a window.
   
   
6. I usually use a fan in the window blowing out. Make sure it sealed around so it’s actually creating suction and not pulling in any outside air.
   
   
7. For cleanup, broom, more bags, and a shovel. When removing the plaster a lot of pieces will fall into the wall behind the lathe. I usually pick that all out with my hands and clean it up with the shovel. Then I use my shop vac with the filter bags in it for secondary cleaning.
   
   
8. Make sure you cut power to the room first, maybe even rooms around and above or below if you can swing it.

Not sure why you're getting downvoted OP, over exposure to lead is no joke and being concerned about it doesn't make you any less of a man.

I've actually just been doing some research about this myself. I'm no expert but from what I gather, if you take some simple precautions you'll probably be good to go and don't really need to be concerned. If you still are, you can always get your blood lead level checked by your doctor for cheap.

• Try to avoid indoor ranges even if they have a modern filtration system.
  
  
• Don't use regular soap, which studies now show doesn't remove lead from the skin well at all, and according to one study can actually increase absorption of certain forms of lead into the skin. (The tested soap was Ivory, which uses sodium lauryl sulfate as a surfactant like most soaps do -- you can Google for the study). There's a company called Hygenall which makes soaps and skin wipes which were proven to remove most lead from skin; the technology was actually developed by and licensed from the CDC. There are other companies that make similar products as well but I don't know if it's the same CDC-developed formulation. I just purchased two canisters of Hygenall's FieldWipes from Brownells. There a bit on the expensive side but worth the peace of mind for me. The US Military and law enforcement uses them too if that matters to you.
  
  
• Designate a pair of clothes/shoes specifically for wearing at the range, as lead does stick to clothing and regular detergents don't easily remove lead (I think Hygenall and some other companies make special detergents too).
  
  
• You can also consider wearing a respirator while shooting if you want. If you do get one it needs to be either P100 or N100. I just bought one from 3M for $8 on Amazon and it will last me several range trips at least. I may not be able to wear it when shooting my rifle but at least I will for my handgun. It'll probably make me look like a weirdo but who cares? At least I won't be breathing in lead that I don't need to be breathing in.
  
  They also make practice rounds that use lead-free primers (apparently the primers are the biggest source of lead exposure, not the bullet especially if it's jacketed). Check out PMC's eRange line for example. I decided against this -- for now -- because one I'm counting pennies and it was $50 more for 1K rounds, and my rifle rounds have lead primers anyways. Two, I wanted to do more research on what other possible health risks (if any) come from the alternative primer. Three, despite hearing good things about eRange, I read this about DDNP (the lead-free primer that most manufacturers use these days) and decided to hold off on purchasing 1K rounds of the stuff: https://wstiac.alionscience.com/pdf/WQV11N2_ART01.pdf‎
  
  Some of the PDFs I found interesting during my research:
  
  www.dtic.mil/cgi-bin/GetTRDoc?AD=ADA487506
  
  www.hygenall.com/Skin_Absorption.pdf‎
  
  http://www.researchgate.net/publication/239522749_Handwipe_method_for_removing_lead_from_skin/file/e0b4951c1b0eb5ee68.pdf
  
  tl;dr; be concerned, take some simple precautions, but don't go crazy over it, and have fun shooting.

That's very thoughtful of you. I'm not a safety expert and you should read the instructions on anything you purchase, but here's my experience.

The 2 masks I use are a 3M respirator like this and an RZ dust mask like this. The RZ dust mask is much lighter, but it never seems to get a great seal, and the fact that I can still smell sawdust or solvents when using it makes me not trust how protective it is. I really like the 3M respirator and would recommend it over the RZ. I have not tried the Elipse mask yet, but it might be my next purchase just to see if I like it better than the 3M.

Just remember that there are 2 kinds of filters for the 3M - pink ones for dust, and white ones like this or this grey one for filtering chemicals, or Organic Vapors. The dust ones last a while before needing to be replaced. The white/grey ones only last a couple days once you open the bags, because they contain activated charcoal that is constantly absorbing materials from the air until they become saturated. They'll still act as a dust mask after that initial ~48 hours, but if you're painting or applying finish, you should use a new one. Storing in ziplock bags can prolong their life as well I've read.

I've been looking for something similar for three weeks, asking about it on reddit and other places.

It seems the most popular brands mentioned on this subreddit aren't easily available in the UK, and it's easy to think that £100 will get you a good set of speakers (in PC terms, £100 would let you pick among the best keyboards or mice), but for speakers it seems that 95% of the options under £100 are bad.

Speakers are either active (power supply built into them) or passive (needs a separate amp). Cheap / normal PC speakers are active, so I'm assuming you don't already have an amp.

In the UK the most highly recommended speakers under £100 are Whafedale Diamonds.

Best for under £100:

• Amp: LEPY 2024A Plus (£24)
  
  
• Speakers: Wharfedale Diamond 9.0 (£60)
  
  The best for under £200:
  
  
• Amp: SMSL SA-50 (£53)
  
• Speakers: Wharfedale Diamond 9.1 (£100), these speakers are quite big for a desk.
  
  Also needed:
  
  
• 3.5mm to RCA (£4) or something similar of whatever length to reach from your computer to the amp
  
• 2.5mm multi-strand 432 (2x216 strand), 14 AWG (£6), or any 14 or 16 gauge speaker wire, to go from the amp to each speaker.
  
  The £24 amp isn't great, but should do fine for sitting in front of a computer.
  
  You don't normally need banana plugs or anything fancy, unless you plan on swapping speakers regularly. If you use the £53 amp, check the plug that comes with it, some aren't fused / safe for UK.
  
  Hope this helps, and if anyone has any improvements, please reply, I'll probably be reposting this reply to any other similar UK questions.

I learned about PPE from the perspective of a woodworker, which has some overlap with detailing in terms of PPE when it comes to chemicals. Woodworkers commonly wear half mask respirators (I use this model from 3M) and then swap in filters for whatever they're doing at the moment. I wear that respirator for many hours at a time and it's very comfortable to wear and use. Just make sure to get one that fits your face shape and size, and to keep facial hair to a minimum.

As for filters, I use P100 filters for getting rid of particulate matter, in our case fine wood dust, which might be less relevant for detailing since particulates from abrasion typically get trapped in water or polish. They have some degree of organic vapor relief but it's not good enough if you're spraying paint or working with strong chemicals. For those, I use a dedicated organic vapor cartridge like this one.

There may be some better dedicated filter cartridges to use since 3M has a pretty wide product range, but that respirator's definitely a good one from my experience.

Dust Containment, Dust Collection, Dust Filtration.

First, go to any big box store (I think even walmart may have it) and get a roll of sheet plastic. Try to get at least 6mil thickness. Attach this to the bottoms of the joists and subfloor. Be sure to go up in between the joists to seal that off too. Staples work really well, especially if you reinforce the edge of the plastic with a piece of duct tape on both sides. Wherever your door is going to be, overlap to pieces by about 12-18" to create a usable door flap.

Second, (if you don't already have one) get some sort of dust collection. A simple shop vac will do, though I highly recommend that you get a large one with a 2 1/2" hose as well as some sort of dust separator or you will be buying vacuum bags and filters like crazy.

Finally, get the Wen 3410 for $125. It has plenty of air movement and at full speed will cycle the air in a 20x20 room something like 7 times per hour I think. It's also quiet. The unit is identical to the Rikon and a couple other units at a much cheaper price.

The first two are the most important, but the last will greatly reduce the amount of dust that stays in the air, and more importantly, your lungs. A good respirator would also be a good investment as well. For less than $20, it's a good investment. I like the 3M 650x Quick Latch Respirator. I use one of these along with the P100 filters. If you have to go cheap on the last one, get a $20 box fan and a 20x20 furnace filter. That works decently too.

edit: I too work in my basement. I did the above and do not have problems with dust anywhere in the house, even right outside of my shop.

For flu and most common stuff m95. Gloves. Hand washing. Eye protection. 3m n95 respirator and shooting glasses is a pretty good start. If you want to [test your fit ] (http://www.envirosafetyproducts.com/3m-bitrex-qualitative-fit-test-kit-ft-30.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwlKLHBRDztKr6wMnRthMSJAALcT-sZxr17fC70da1EhE9LwWoDbg-ChAXusbmKQyx7a5MlRoCYbPw_wcB)
This is how you test it. A basic [3m n95] (https://www.amazon.com/3M-1860-Medical-Mask-Count/dp/B000GUP7UC) is what we use in hospitals for airborne precautions. The next step up is a [full face respirator] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002STR86/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491643072&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3m+full+face+respirator&dpPl=1&dpID=51Kt1F9PA8L&ref=plSrch) throw in n95 or n99 cartridges for biological protection or my favorite the n100 and organic vapor cartridge, the [yellow-magenta] (https://www.zoro.com/3m-combination-cartridge-yellowmagenta-pk2-60923/i/G1188686/). This gives you airborne viral precautions, covers pepper spray, and many noxious organic vapors and toxins. Pretty much the best general filter I know of.

If you want coverage more than this with ppar suits you need a Decon room. People to help you don the suits and remove them. This is hard to do in even a hospital. If there is something that can get through an n95... Your best protection is .308 and a good scope.

Yeah I'm pretty sure $300 for a new amp and speakers would get you better sound than using a $300 amp and the old speakers. These little amps are very good for the price if you are only going to be using it with your PC https://www.amazon.co.uk/SA-50-TDA7492-Stereo-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B008Y7S198/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1501368949&sr=8-18&keywords=stereo+amplifier I suggested that amp because the Yamaha has many inputs and functionality that you may never use if you are only playing music from your computer. Regardless I'd suggest getting an amplifier and trying the old speakers first, they'd probably sound pretty good and you might be pleasantly surprised. Then when you upgrade you will be able to appreciate the difference! Otherwise you could also spend the €300 on some nice studio monitors which have built in amplifiers such as these: http://www.audiorumble.com/best-studio-monitors/under-300/

Dust Collector - $239

Air Filtration - $139.99

As far as jointers - I'd stay away from the bench top ones. You'll find them useful for a short period of time, but then you'll realize you should have sprung for a bigger model. Along with a planer, I would look on CL for a decently priced used model. Obviously this doesn't work with your Amazon Gift card plan, but I wouldn't waste them. And buying a good jointer new off amazon is going to be out of your budget.

Jigsaw - $65.99

3M Respirator Mask - $15.97

As far as clamps, I would stick with Bessey clamps. I would price check Amazon vs Home Depot and see what's cheaper. If HD is cheaper, don't waste your Amazon GCs on them. HD tends to run Special Buys on them from time to time too.

Right now, you're just under $500. Do you plan on doing any hand tool work (i.e. chisels, handsaws)? If so, you can spend some on those tools as well.

I had exactly the same issue & did the abatement project myself. The tiles tested between 9% & 11% chrysotile. If you choose to lift them up obviously you want to do so without breaking them but use of a 3M mask & P100 filter suffices for protection this sort of friable (crumbly) material becoming an airborne hazard. I lifted tiles with a tile chipper (not ideal but the adhesive was a real bugger). Next step is liberal use of an asbestos surfactant like Fiberlock for the cleanup.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-6391-P100-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B001NDN29O

http://www.fiberlock.com/asbestos/6450.html

Your local landfill will have protocol for disposing of asbestos and you'll have to contact them. See your local Acklands Grainger type of outlet for the yellow asbestos 6mm poly bags they request you use (often double-bagged is the policy).

Your local industrial lab type place will be able to come and do a spot check & air clearance test to quell your fears about how good of a job you did. I left a table out during the process and left the 3' surface undisturbed while moving it around the work area as required - I had them take the spot test on that table in addition to the air clearance test. All was well below acceptable exposure levels - < .01% particulate matter was asbestos.

Leave them down if possible. The risk is there but it's manageable. The truth is, it's safe material as long as you don't bust the tiles - sealing it really isn't necessary. Something more cost effective (and quicker) than epoxy would be a rolled commercial PCB flooring product which is glued down and glued together laterally at the seams.

Cheers.

Second /u/Grimsterr. A respirator is an absolute godsend in the shop.

I use this kind, with these filters.

They're amazing. The respirator itself is super comfortable. Its silicone gasket is very soft and snugs up perfectly against your face, blocking all air ingress and egress around the edges of the mask. (As an eyeglass wearer, this is a huge deal for me. The disposable ones inevitably send your hot breath straight up around the edges, right into your eyes and instantly fog up your glasses.) The filters block everything. Well, everything you're going to be exposed to in a woodshop. All the dust, and all the smelly finishing-product vapors. It's pretty astonishing what you can't smell while wearing one of those things.

And they're pretty inexpensive, too. If you go through a lot of those disposable masks, you'll break even pretty quickly on a proper respirator.

3m 7500 get the pink discs they are p100 filters. It's a great mask that is comfortable to wear, even for longer periods.

Dust collection is important but even with that a mask will be your best friend.

The 6000 series is what the engineering team uses and they all said it's comfy as well. Uses the same filters as the 7500. They have the 6000 at home depot in the paint section. The best part is you can buy different filters for finishing.

Yay! I hope your life gets better from your plans :)

Helping people online makes me happy. I also like cat gifs, movies, my cats, homemade gluten-free baking, and reading :)

These mask filters would help me.

Ive never in my life heard anyone refer to Yamaha HS5's as not clear. Theyre a very forward sounding speaker on the bright side of neutral.

Presonus are decent to good for the price. Mackie MR series and Adam T5V's are my picks for powered monitors. CR series Mackies are junk and not even worth considering.


Now, on to your actual question. $200 Euros is tight for anything much better. The main benefit of going passives + amp is ease of upgrade. There is no upgrade path for powered speakers.

I would look at something from Q Acoustics QA3010's, 3010's, etc or the Klipsch R14M's if you like clear, bright sound with a good soundstage. Plus these will play loud with ease.

For an amp you could go with a cheap SMSL SA-50 for now.

From SurvivalistBoards, to address the notion that amazon took them down under pressure from US Govt so people couldn't loiter in a tear-gassed location:

"For use specifically against CS/tear gas type exposure almost any filtering respirator will do. CS is not truly a gas but is a micro pulverized particulate which can float in the air like dust. So any good particulate filtering mask will satisfactorily defend against CS. Just be sure it fits well and seals against the face without gaps, then you will need to protect the eyes with snug goggles or use a full face mask. Filters for ordinary paint respirators would work and could be replaced cheaply and as often as you felt necessary to provide good flow, but should last quite long and still work."

Amazon does still have civilian models like this full face mask that would do the trick against tear gas.

1. It's an automatic with lots of plastic moving parts that can wear out, break, less is spent on the part that matter for better sound quality.
   
2. Yes, amplification, speakers and speaker wire. Turntable will include and RCA cable.
   
3. Many options at RicherSounds
   
4. No, put the money towards a better turntable that will already have a better stylus.
   
   Better turntable: The new Audio Technica LPW30TK £269. Manual with less parts than an automatic. Includes a better elliptical stylus instead of conical. Solid wood/MDF plinth instead of hollow plastic. Speed monitored motor for lower wow and flutter and speed variation.
   
   Speakers: Wharfedale DIAMOND 220 on sale £99 £149, Q Acoustics 3020 £129, Mordaunt Short M10 £59.
   
   Amp: Cambridge Audio TOPAZ AM5 £129 or Cambridge Audio TOPAZ AM10 £149. Or lower budget IMG Stageline SA-50 £59 or SMSL SA-50 £63 mini amp.
   
   Speaker wire: AmazonBasics 14-Gauge (50 feet) or similar, then 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow.
   
   Speaker Positioning (with speaker stands for bookshelf speakers): How to position your speakers for great sound and Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.
   
   Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice • Introduction to Audio Components • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides

Hi! Thank both you and /u/redpiano for the replies, I really appreciate it. If you both don't mind I have a couple more questions. Thank you again for taking the time to help me out, it's put me at ease more here and I'm thinking this might not be so bad. (Also pricing HEPA filters because of these posts which is probably a good idea anyway.)

When you say "put an air filter over it", do you mean literally just buying something like this and taping it over the end of the flat slot portion of the tube? I'm a little confused on that.

Regarding thinner, is Vallejo considered safe? I picked basically Vallejo everything just in case there was any cross-brand problems. Also, I take it that alcohol paints and lacquers are considered harmful because of the noxious fumes as well? I use Tamiya spray primer, it's actually what I have the organic vapor mask for, and I know from experience that it's pretty wicked and it sticks around for a long time (I went outside during the summer months and fall but I've had to commandeer the bathroom with an open window in the next room in the past month and a half and just warn people to stay out for a half an hour or so afterwards). I usually end up having to shut the drying pieces in my laundry closet because they are just that potent. (Somewhat related, does anybody know if Stynylrez is any less noxious? I've been trying in vain to find a primer that is as smooth as Tamiya to no avail, but I was hoping that thinning this and spraying it through an airbrush might take care of that.)

There are a couple things I can't avoid using alcohol based paints for (unless anybody knows water based alternatives to things like Tamiya's transparent colours, particularly their red), but I was hoping to just set up a second booth in my other room to do those in short doses.

(Also, this is alright for painting, right, as long as I'm not using stuff with fumes? Like I mentioned before I'd really rather not use up my expensive cartridges for my organic vapor mask too quickly if at all possible.)

A shady area (I'm thinking under trees, not in a garage) may help, but won't stop the resin from curing. If you have a covered area, that may be a better option.

Alternatively, I would recommend getting a face mask to help with the headaches and the smell that's bothering you. I use a couple different kinds when working with materials (from a mask that has a vent filter, to a full on mask with big filters on it, for example: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Disposable-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007JZ1P8A/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=face+mask+for+chemicals&qid=1569175931&sr=8-15 I use a face mask like this with the big pink filters when spraying clear coat and automotive paints and it works great https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-60926-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POHLRC/ref=pd_cp_328_3/146-5296099-0774129?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009POHLRC&pd_rd_r=e038d1c4-898e-46d1-8128-f7cb70c56aa8&pd_rd_w=8t2o5&pd_rd_wg=E6hUd&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=P70GJ26Y4VJQ8F56WTTB&psc=1&refRID=P70GJ26Y4VJQ8F56WTTB ).

by all means , if you dont wanna buy habor freight you dont need to its good enough to start out

these are things i am personally buying for my self

​

small things could be , 2 to 4 of these

https://www.harborfreight.com/35-lbs-rated-4-34-in-heavy-duty-welding-magnet-63798.html

some clamps

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-f-style-welding-clamp-63512.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-c-clamp-locking-pliers-64564.html 2 of these would be nice

some C - clams would be nice tho these are not the best ones , bigger ones are better imo

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-industrial-c-clamps-39610.html

​

if he dont have an angle grinder , this one has great reviews

https://www.harborfreight.com/corded-4-12-in-7-amp-professional-angle-grinder-56435.html

some hearing protection

https://www.harborfreight.com/hearing-protector-64675.html

a face shield for grinding

https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-face-shield-46526.html

soap stones for marking the metal

https://www.harborfreight.com/flat-soap-stones-5-pc-60633.html

​

i have been told by a few people a respirator would be nice

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator-6300-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007JZ1MK6?tag=weldingchamps-20

https://www.amazon.com/3M-50051131070009-Particulate-Filter-2091/dp/B07571LKP4/ref=pd_sbs_469_t_0/134-3850798-5169829?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07571LKP4&pd_rd_r=7bda400a-3de9-4235-8a30-af24291d4f08&pd_rd_w=dkAXF&pd_rd_wg=EX0oJ&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=HWQAFKBFBWKEAJHMKG7V&psc=1&refRID=HWQAFKBFBWKEAJHMKG7V

hope these idea's help

Buy an air filter! I have terrible asthma and my buns' hay sets me off so badly I use a filtered respirator to clean their cage.

I have two air filters and it makes a HUGE difference. I have this one by the buns: Honeywell HFD-130 Germicidal Tower Air Purifier with Permanent IFD Filter, and this one by my bed Sanyo Air Washer Air Purifier.

The bun-filter is a monster. It's nearly 2 feet tall and can be a bit loud on the higher settings, but it's got a washable filter inside. You would not believe the GUNK that comes out of this thing when I clean it. It keeps the dust from the hay down pretty well and provides white noise to keep the buns from flipping out over every passing car too.

The other filter I haven't had long enough to say if it's good or not, but it's fancy and quiet. It shoots out water from the top and has "odor detection". I say get the monster. :)

Honestly, this is a shitty thing to have to do. You should make it as easy for yourself as possible. Get something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449263583&sr=8-1&keywords=respirator

The active charcoal filters actually take away a lot of the smell while the particle filters make sure there's no danger from aerosol particles (can be an issue if noro or rota are involved and also if you're dealing with rodent droppings). I have one like that (different brand) and it's well worth the money. Much more effective and more comfortable than the standard dust masks. Plus, it looks badass.

Exactly $25 is tough to hit, so I'm voting for this.. It is worth your $ to pony up $12 for this:

$37 4Sevens Quark Mini 123


Also since you didn't really mention any deficiencies in your carry, I think we kind of have to pick a replacement or we'll be suggesting something you don't need. As such, I suggest this knife:

$21 CRKT Peck

Mine stays in my pocket and I love it. Great money clip too, if you fold the bill properly (bill disappears behind clip).



$11 Sandisk Cruzer Blade

Face it. That flash drive you have is about to crash. It's old, you'll lose all your data, and you'll be pissed. This is a cheap, excellent replacement/upgrade.



$10 550 Paracord

Think of all the fun things you can do, and survival situations this will help you survive in. Yep. Buy 2 and a half.



$13 or Kelty Triptease is a fun alternative to paracord. Does not have same survival possibilities! Is way more fun.

***

I guess I'll go on and stop there. And I'm not sure upvotes will be helpful. Maybe you should specify one vote per reply. LOL

I think boiled linseed oil would be a good choice. Any finish will wear out over time but with BLO you can simply wipe a fresh coat onto the handle when it wears out. You could also shellac which can also be re-applied when it wares. Shellac won't offer as much protection from sweat though.

I have the 3M 6502 which I like. It's fairly inexpensive and seems to work well. Get some of the pink particulate filters for general woodworking and some vapour filters for finishing.

Look for hardwood dealers in your local area and see what they have. Some places will stock a huge array of exotics and others will stock next to none. If you only need a small amount you could try online hardwood retailers. I've also found eBay to be okay for smallish pieces of exotic or highly figured wood. Go to the Crafts>woodcrafts>wood/materials category and look there. Sometimes you can find good deals.

Elipse P100, hands down.

https://www.amazon.com/GVS-SPR457-Elipse-Respirator-Medium/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=38PFUWYZSPD3&keywords=elipse+p100+dust+mask&qid=1564515575&s=gateway&sprefix=elipse%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-3

I've tried many different dust masks and this is the most comfortable and best value mask I've found. I've tired 2 different versions of the RZ and hate they way they fit. the 3M respirators are ok, and I have one of those with organic filters for painting, but the Elipse is the best for me, especially when wearing other safety gear, like glasses, and over the ear hearing protection.

I decided on this one: 3M Full Facepiece Reusable Respirator 6900/54159

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JZ1M10/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased this cartridge: 3M Organic Vapor/Acid Gas Cartridge/Filter 60923, P100 Respiratory Protection (Pack of 2)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEFCKKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've included the links to them on Amazon which is where I purchased them. I love the mask as it is easy to get a good seal and easy to take off. I have a small goatee and I get a perfect seal with this mask. I treated five different times last year and didn't smell anything or have any breathing issues after using the mask with the cartridges.

From the pictures it looks like you are wearing a simple mask like this Home Dust Mask. If you have another project involving tile or dust like it, or a friend has such a project you should wear a better mask. One like this one would work, and this one would work even better and be more versatile.

On a side note, I bet the dust got to the refrigerator's compressor.

The filter mask is probably good for a start. Some people recommend masks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00004Z4EB

I built a kind of mostly-effective spray booth thing from 2x2s and plastic sheeting with an exhaust fan, but I think my fan is too small to be very useful so mostly it just protects my table. A respirator mask should be good enough, though, and I'll probably pick one up soon myself.

Wear a respirator while doing any work. Not a dust mask, but an actual N100 rated respirator.

Sounds like a horrible idea, but for safety reasons, it's best to keep everything moist as you clean it, to cut down on dust. Use a 10% bleach solution to moisten areas before cleaning, scoop and sweep up all the shmoo and dispose of it.

The smell will go away over time once it's clean.

A respirator is awesome. I highly recommend the 3M 7500 series (e.g. 7502). The vent on the 7500 faces downwards, so if you're wearing a face shield (as I do when running a bench or angle grinder), it won't fog the shield. Amazon Link

The P100 "Pancake" filter are a good match. Low profile and organic vapor relief (i.e. good working with small amounts of solvents). Another Link

Finally, for ear protection, I like earplugs with a string attached. Easy to take in and out and low profile if you're also wearing a faceshield or welding helmet, or whatever. example

Here's what I would do...

Buy a respirator

Turn off the water to the house. Drain the pipes as best you can.

Rip out the tub and the tub walls, including the faucet and handles on the tub. Throw them away.

Clean up any mold you find now that the tun and walls are out. Soap & water and a brush will do.

If there is any wood work that's falling apart from water damage/mold, you may need to get help... It'll unfortunately cost more than you have, but the alternative is for the house to fall down. Hopefully it's not too bad.

Buy one of these and one of these and a few tubes of silicone bathtub sealant.

Now, you'll need some help putting the tub in if you've never done it before. Possible someone here is local and can lend a hand.

It'll end up costing about $800-$1000 - I tried to get you as close to $600 as I can...

I use a 3M quick latch respirator with the pink cartridges (you need to buy the filters separately with the mask I linked). It is reasonably comfortable and does a great job filtering.

The quick latch is critical for me because, thanks to allergies, my nose seems to be always running to a greater or lesser degree. Needing to unstrap to blow my nose or to sneeze would be horrible.

The pink filters are perfect for what I do. They are P100 (meaning they filter 100% of particulates; that's the level you want) and will do enough chemical filtering to be useful in the environment I work in (my shop). For more noxious chemicals or stronger exposure, you can get different filters.

You may want to get two, one permanently for the shop and one for his work vehicle. I know mine would always be in the other place, and I'd probably be too lazy or forgetful to move it.

Sum up the light in a few words:

Name | Battery (type and quantity) | Lumens and mode | battery life (in order of lumens mode) | length | price (rounded up to full dollar)

------------------

The simple one mode guy:

• Coast PX25 | 3x AAA | 208 Lumens | 6.25 hrs | 4.7" | $28 Prime
  
  
  Maybe another setting would be nice:
  
  
• Coast HP7 | 4x AAA | 251/58 Lumens | 5.75/10 hrs | 5.6" | $44
  
  
  ...Or like 30 settings:
  
  
• Fenix LD10 | 1x AA | 120/94/47/9/SOS/Strobe Lumens | 1.5/2.2/6/34/varies hrs | 3.4" | $39 Prime
  
  
  Simple and I hate AAAs:
  
  
• Fenix E21 | 2x AA | 170/54 Lumens | 2.25/11 hrs | 6.5" | $31 Prime
  
  
  I like a sleek slim light with a lot of settings. I don't mind that its twist on:
  
  
• Foursevens P2 | 2x AAA | 160/?/2/SOS/beacon/strobe Lumens | 1/?/23/varies hrs | 5" | $45 Prime
  
  
  ...That and CR123As are my kind of battery:
  
  
• Foursevens Mini | 1x CR123A | 189/40/3/SOS/beacon/strobe Lumens | 1.2/8/150/varies hrs | 2.3" | $35 Prime
  
  
  Tail button FTW:
  
  
• Streamlight ProTAC | 2x AAA | 80/10/strobe Lumens | 1.5/30/5 hrs | 5.6" | $29 Prime
  
  
  
  Tail button and AAs FTW:
  
  
• Streamlight ProTAC | 1x AA | 50/6/strobe Lumens | 1.75/22/4 hrs | 3.9" | $33 Prime
  
  
  
  A little longer gets you 2x the brightness:
  
  
• Streamlight ProTAC | 2x AA | 120/14/strobe Lumens | 1.75/21/4 hrs | 5.9" | $36 Prime
  
  
  Okay lets face it. CR123As are kinda cool:
  
  
  
• Streamlight ProTAC | 2x CR123A | 180/10/strobe Lumens | 2.5/50/6 hrs | 4.7" | $40 Prime
  
  
  
  
  
  Hope that helps!! I have a couple Streamlights and I am happy with them. On a budget (sub $50-80) they are great lights. A lot of people (non-tactical) like Foursevens. Never used one. If you aren't afraid of loosing it they seem like fantastic lights. If you can afford it and you are in tactical or just rugged situations Surefire makes unbelievably good flashlights... but they cost a lot.
  
  EDIT: Formatting.
  

Hello fellow Oregonian! Here in Eugene it got up to 430 air quality index ... that's "Hazardous"! Crazy bad smoke.

I've run up to 150 air quality index (I ran 18 miles in the orange zone.) Made me cough a few times during the run, and I felt like I could feel it impinging slightly on my performance. It wasn't pleasant, but wasn't super bad.

Today I went for a run in this half-face respirator! I looked like a Fallout character, and it was pretty tough breathing through, but it worked for a 1 hour easy run and the air quality was perfect! I wouldn't try running harder or much longer with that thing though.

CDC recommends N95 masks against H1N1. N99 is better than N95, and Measles morbillivirus is larger than H1N1. So I'm not a doctor, but I reckon it will be substantially better than nothing. Can't hurt, anyway. But I suggest you splurge a bit and get a reusable respirator mask with some P100 filters. It's easier to fit-test, and a lot more comfortable for prolonged use. Unfortunately I haven't found any good guidance on how often to change the filters.

If you do use a disposable mask, make sure you're wearing it correctly. Use both straps to fasten it tightly to your head, and bend the metal tab to seal around your nose.

Anti-vaxxers piss me off too... It's going to take a big epidemic before people remember why we have these vaccines. The more advanced and safe modern society becomes, the less people understand the basic realities of the world.

Agree the respirators are your best bet, but I personally find them really uncomfortable and sweat a lot in them. I like these masks for dust protection while woodworking - they have a gasket on the back to form a tight seal and are pretty comfortable IMO. Then use the respirator for painting / finishing to protect against vapors.

Setting aside the question of "Is NBC protective gear worth the expense"... I think the best way to test, would be to wear and tighten the mask to fit, and then use something like banana oil or smelling salts to check for any leaks (assuming you are using P100 or better filters). As this blast-from-the-past website demonstrates: http://www.alpharubicon.com/basicnbc/gasmaskfit.htm

My understanding is that it takes a lot of time and regular training, to properly don NBC gear on short notice. A N95 or P100 dust mask or respirator, would definitely be helpful in the more common disasters (unrest, storms, flooding, etc). NBC protection requires a full suit, gloves, boots, etc. Would you have time to deploy all of that out of your car, before you are affected by a strike?

I don't know if I would trust old military gas masks, because you don't know how old they are, or what the storage conditions were. The savings would likely be eaten up by the uncertainty of getting old, expired, or ill-fitting gear. The stuff is surplus for a reason...

Hm, the first thing that comes to mind is my best friend and I recently moved to an entirely new state. We both have social anxiety but I think she's better at controlling hers so she had to talk me into going to this weekly board game night at a bar downtown. I hate bars, I hate loud noises, I hate too many people being around, I hate talking to strangers...so this was kind of a nightmare for me, but I wanted to make friends so bad. So, she was able to convince me to go and now we've got 3 weeks in a row, I'm actually enjoying it! :-)

Time to end boredom! Happy birthday!!

Oh, and it's juuuust over $19 but I'd love this from my Business wishlist to keep the glitter out of my lungs D: A gift card to go toward that would be awesome and I could totally cover the last couple dollars myself <3

I bought 2 of these for £23 each at the time (on offer) :

https://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/378284/Car-subwoofer-passive-130-mm-80-W-Sinuslive-Bass-Pump-III-8-

As an alternative, these seem to get good reviews on Amazon for much less £££'s :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unknown-Bodyshaker/dp/B002LQAHPE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538384751&sr=8-2&keywords=bass+shaker

​

Along with this SMSL 2x50W amp :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SA-50-TDA7492-Stereo-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B008Y7S198/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538383831&sr=8-3&keywords=smsl+sa-50

These connectors :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00169BIF0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And 2m of audio cable (only available inn 1m atm) :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fisual-S-Flex-Studio-Grade-Speaker-Black/dp/B01L2EK7EG?th=1

​

I have the 2 shakers mounted underneath my Ikea chair on the left & right sides.

They are just screwed into the wood base with some rubber washers on there too for dampening.

I've read that it's better with the shakers mounted on some metal brackets / bars to allow them to vibrate more, but I haven't tried this yet.

​

Currently use a SoundBlaster Z for the main pc sound, and my motherboards' onboard audio to drive the amp/shakers.

​

Works well as far as I can tell - don't have anything to compare it against - and I never need to have the amp above 50% volume, with the onboard audio at 90% volume in windows.

​

For software I use SimVibe, but both Simhub & SimShaker Wheels also work well too. I'd say SimhHub is easier to tweak to taste due to not needing to mess around with .wav files in Audacity.

​

Plus if you want rumble from other games / movies output through the shakers for some added immersion, then use Voicemeter Banana and enable the eq on the secondary output channel assigned to the onboard audio.

Then set the low pass filter @75-90Hz.

​

There's a big thread on RaceDepartment with plenty of more info on setups much more advanced than mine :

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/tactile-immersion-general-discussion-hardware-software.137631/

​

I agree with cyclefreaksix that you'll likely have to spend a bit more than $20 to get a light with enough throw and power for what you're looking for. I personally have a Fenix E21, TK12, and a Xeno E03.

The E21 is a 2x AA light, slim, with a good feel in the hand. Decent mix of flood and throw. It's my go-to light for around the house work.

The TK12 is likely a bit more than you'd wan't to spend at $70, it's a very well built and very bright (compared to Maglites as well as my other two LED lights.) In this price range there is also the 4Sevens Quark 123^2 and AA^2. I use my TK12 in the theater or if I think I'll need more throw out at night.

The Xeno E03 is a 1xAA light, smaller in the hand, but still putting out a good number of OTF (Out The Front) lumens. In this size category there is also the Quark Mini 123 and Mini AA. I carry my E03 daily in my pocket. There are of course more options in all these categories.

Do you have a particular size or battery type you would prefer?

Amazon Link - SMSL SA-50

Has a few colour options

I've had mine for a year now - replaced an old amp sitting under my desk. Sound quality is good, and it's tiny - the size of your hand.

It has RCA for stereo input, and 4 binding posts for stereo output.
This pic from another reddit thread shows just how small it is compared to a monitor (its the little box on the right).

It's loud enough for a small house party (lent it to my sister for a birthday party, worked fine) and stays ice cool when in use (thanks to a class D amplifier circuit) 10/10 would recommend.

Those particle masks will only help so much, in order to be better protected you need a good seal around the face.

Amazon prime one of these and stay safe!

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-6291-Particulate/dp/B000FTEDMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1542411458&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3m+respirator&dpPl=1&dpID=41J7eFCI06L&ref=plSrch

If your company doesn't care too much about obscure rules and is willing to look the other way on you not being certified and cleared for respiratory protection then a 3M half mask is your best bet. P100 dust/ash filtration plus organic vapor using activated carbon to scrub chemicals out of the air or just for odor relief. Use it all the time for changing a relative's cats' litter boxes and I do not smell a thing with either filter.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JZ1N00/ plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007STCT00 (less expensive, wears out and odor breaks through faster than the big filter, but very lightweight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEFCKKY (more expensive, lasts a very very long time, heavier)


If your site is super anal about OSHA rules when it comes to masks then you'll have to stick to disposable masks and not reusable rubber masks with filter cartridges. 3M makes ash/dust protection ones with a thin activated carbon layer for odor relief.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052EA7NY

I don’t know I usually see them used interchangeably.

I have this one: 3M Advanced Particulate Filter, 2297, P100 (Pack of 2 Filters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009POHH94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tr03CbED30NBD

P100 + “nuisance level” odor protection which I think means protects from minor odors / gasses but not at all sufficient for real gas / odor protection.

You can get separate filters to attach to the same mask for strong gas / oil / chemical protection (I think you need the right kind for the right chemical) so for a cheap mask it’s comfortable and accepts all kinds of filters.

They sell it as “disposable” but I’ve had mine for over a year.

I can't really do that because all the guys would know it was me right away since they all are fine with the working conditions except me.


Also we're inspected like 6+ times a year by various organizations. The air quality is never brought into question. It's all just our tools/doors/vehicles/etc. So I feel like it's "just something you accept" with a job like this. Aside from getting a mask, I'm not 100% sure there even is anything you could do about this kind of shrapnel-based air in circulation.


I'll mark that mask recommendation though and I appreciate the link. In my other research I came across the M2 RZ MASK and the M2.5 RZ MASK which seems to be the same thing as the first just minus a strap. I feel like that mask is a good balance between the full-on double tank masks like this or this but is one step above (visually) the one you linked. Yours could be way better performance-wise than the M2 I linked, though. And it's cheaper so I have to take all of this into consideration since I work 7 days a week all day, so I'd probably burn through these things(filters) fast.

Years ago I bought this mask
Https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JZ1MK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G1OVBbMF2VS4Q
About a year ago I upgraded to this one though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RCU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W5OVBbCAGQRCD
it is worth the extra money and then some. (I think they are available at the local box stores too.) The advantage is a quick release latch. Whenever my wife would come down to ask me a question or my phone would ring I’d have to take my headphones, glasses and mask off to answer. The latch lets you drop it down so you’re able to talk or breathe without the mask without fully taking it off. It’s also really helpful on longer sessions when you end up getting hot and sweaty and just want a quick breather.
Added bonus, all the filters I bought for the first mask still work and I just use it as a spare for when family or friends come to my shop they get a nice one now too.
I should also mention I do not have a beard either so I can’t speak to the performance for those fortunate enough to grow a less than pitiful beard

I use this one because it's small, comfortable, and works well:

https://www.amazon.com/GVS-SPR457-Elipse-Respirator-Medium/dp/B013SIIBFQ

I know if I had a big bulky one, I'd be less inclined to actually wear it.

I also really like these disposable respirators because they're comfortable to wear for a long time, and I can toss them if I'm doing something really messy (and this is a good price, too):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YKBV2/?coliid=I187PZ7J0QY9YD

Get some good safety glasses while you're at it:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Virtua-Protective-Eyewear-11873-00000-20/dp/B00AEY4PKS

looks like a great place to get work done! My only suggestion is that you upgrade to a respirator rated for organic vapors. That'll protect you from inhaling toxic fumes, which a dust mask can't do. I even use it when I have to glue or use certain putties.

this is the one I use, and refill cartridges are only like $8 a pop! They last a loooong time.

the problem is, most people uses that kind of facial mask, which is as you said not enough protection but better than nothing.

which is best replaced daily or just after each use.

and yes, the ones I linked originally, the https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Safety/Worker-Health-Safety/Personal-Protective-Equipment/Reusable-Respirators/Cartridges-Filters/?N=5002385+8709322+8711017+8711405+8720539+8720550+8720746+3294857497&rt=r3 stuff should last a lot longer and be reuseable, and is meant for way more adverse environment than the air outside.

and as mentioned P100 would help better, since this is not just common dust but also burned particulates which 99.9 filtering is better.

but, like my coworkers said, they do look ridiculous in an office setting https://www.amazon.com/3M-Personal-Protective-Equipment-51131494904/dp/B00IF7RBS4/ref=pd_cp_200_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=APCTV9YYHGWA8H78Z0DT&pd_rd_wg=FjJaw&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=PQKC6&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=bf2690e6-e919-11e8-93f7-555294ed87de&pd_rd_i=B00IF7RBS4&psc=1&refRID=APCTV9YYHGWA8H78Z0DT

>I would like to know if a normal dust mask would be fine during the sanding, what respirator to get (any brand, but would prefer 3M), and if any filters would be suitable for use during the whole process.

1. Yes.
   
   
2. Based on other's suggestions I purchased this one: 3M R6211.
   
   
3. Yes, the one I linked above is approved for: Particulate matter (dust from sanding, sawing, grinding, sweeping etc.); Odors from chemical strippers, stains, varnishes, paints, pesticides, etc.

If you're going to use a paper dust-mask, you need one with a "down-firing exhaust". But, I'm going to go ahead and suggest you upgrade to a respirator with filters. They're more comfortable, get a better seal against your face, have replaceable filters, and universally have forward or down-firing exhausts. By the time you've used a handfull of dust masks, the respirator is cheaper too.

My go-to respirator is the 3M 6000 series - they come in small, medium, and large - but you want a medium unless you have really weird facial proportions. You'll need to pair it with some filters, they're available in P95 and P100. Personally I find the P95 filters are more than good enough for me.

There's a whole 3M respirator ecosystem though - I'm going to shamelessly link to a nice-long comment on selecting the respirator components and the resulting discussion.

edit: My wife wears a 3M 6100 (the small) with prescription glasses without issue and I wear a 6200 with generic poly-carbonate safety glasses and find it quite comfortable.

This is the respirator that I have and I love it (maybe more than I should). It's so comfortable that I can go a solid 6 hrs before I need to take it off. I do most of my work in a medium sized garage with poor ventilation (unless the door is open) and the difference in air quality it makes is rediculos. I could be hitting stuff with a grinder for a couple hours straight and the air smells just fine with the thing on, but as soon as I take it off, I would get a big face full of nasty air and put it back on, then open the garage door for a bit to air things out. I also use these filters for pretty much all of my dusty work. They're low profile and fit great under a face shield, but you'd probably need something different if you wanted protection from fumes.

Edit: these are the same filters at a better price

Haha, fair enough. Worst case scenario you get it down to bare wood hate it and you can paint it something else. Hopefully you like it. You never know what to expect on those.

with the heatgun, dont do it till the paint comes off on its own as that will for sure burn the wood. Just pick an area maybe 1/4 to 1/8 of the face of the guitar, and heat it, keeping the heat gun in motion. As the paint gets soft, scrape it off with a putty knife. Once its mostly off, it will be easier to sand the oddball remnants off, probably with 180 grit or so using a hand sanding block. Then hit it with 220, 300, and maybe up to 600 if youre just going to oil it.

Also, for the love of all that is toany, get a respirator. You can get a decent one for $25 on amazon, I use this and it works quite well.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00004Z4EB/. Also do this outside.

All in all, If the paint isnt scraping off easily it needs more heat, but always err on the side of farther/more motion than less, and dial in the distance slowly so you dont burn the wood.

Good luck man!

That respirator is this model exactly: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator-6300-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007QY8X2K/ (3M 6000 series half-facepiece respirator)

It comes in 3 sizes (model numbers in parenthesis). Small (6100) /Medium (6200) /Large (6300). Small fits my tiny girlfriend very well. I wear a medium and have an average to largeish head. Small is a pale grey, medum is medium gray, and large is almost black.

This model in particular is made of a TPU plastic which is... not that comfortable, to be honest. Wearing it for a couple hours will leave you with marks on your face (ridge of nose primarily) that take a day or two to go away.

For a few dollars more you can get the 7500 series, which is miles more comfortable because of the silicone face seal: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B008MCUT86/

Then all you need is a pair of replaceable filters, which you should purchase based upon your work or the potential hazards wherever you are exploring.

For most UrbEx type situations i'd imagine a P100 filter will suffice (P means oil and non oil particulate and 100 is the percent it filters out - realistically its 99.97%, but close enough... don't risk your health with anything lower than 100).

These are my favorite particulate filters (high flow and nuisance organic vapor releif): https://www.amazon.com/3M-Advanced-Particulate-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POHH94/

For really sketchy stuff you'll want a combo unit which has multi-gas and particulate filters (which you shouldn't do anyway): https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-60926-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POHLRC/

To summarize: So yeah, get yourself a mask that fits well and filters for the specific job/location you're doing/visiting.

> if you have a suggestion that has worked for you I would love to hear it.

I've found this to be a lot more helpful, even if it's a little bulky. A full P100 mask is a big step up from an N99 Vogmask for me. It's also more comfortable to me. I just wish there was one that doesn't make me look like a bad Bane cosplay.

https://smile.amazon.com/GVS-SPR457-Elipse-Respirator-Medium/dp/B013SIIBFQ/

The easiest recommendation is to have an actual particle mask fitted well like this one NOT A PAINT MASK, and do it outside. Make sure you don't sand through any traces!

If you cannot go outside for some reason, do it in the bathroom with the hot shower running. this lets water bind to the particles and settles them quickly, but they'll still be in your house, so I'd really recommend you go outside.

The flip side is just sand or melt the plastic a bit. I never modify PCBs, I just modify the case :)

definitely get some info before you spend money on tools.

if 99% of what he does is PVC and PEX and copper, you can save a lot by not buying the pipe wrenches.

if he works with black iron or galvanized, he'll need the pipe wrenches.

a decent bag can go a long way to help too, but that's such a personal item it's hard to buy for him.

a good lunch box is a life saver.

a nice half mask respirator and some p100 filters is like $25 and can go a long way to encourage him to wear proper PPE. demo work is dirty. the box stores only carry medium or small, have to order online for a large.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator-6300-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007JZ1MK6/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10cs-5-packs-3M-2091-particulate-filter-P100-for-6000-7000-series-respirator-US/123730577150?

the filters are 1/5th the price if you get them online VS the store. and he'll only need the p100 filters, not the cartridges, unless he's having to solder in restricted airflow environment, then he'll need cartridges.

his shop should provide PPE, but most small outfits seem to hand out crappy paper masks.

So there IS the sidebar, but I'm not going to be a dick about it.

I've been building Gunpla for a while now, but I myself don't delve much into painting. I will give you my setup.

Hand Painting:
-Testors Enamel or some other brand paint
-Respective thinner
-Small brushes
-Something to mix paints in, or to pour your paint on. I use little metal tins and a small glass plate.
-Sticks for your parts to dry on. I use packs of kebab sticks from the grocery store.
-Something to put said sticks in. I use random boxes and poke holes in the tops. Currently using a SD kit's box and a pizza box. Most people buy foam/styrofoam cubes/slabs, I'm just cheap.

Spray Painting:

-Spray cans of your choice. I recommend you learn the differences between lacquers, acrylics, enamels, and different top coats. I prefer Krylon, Krylon Short Cuts, and Tamiya spray cans. I also prefer Kryon for primer.
-Somewhere to paint. IE your garage/patio.
-Newspaper to cover said area.
-Sticks to put your parts on. Again, I use cheap ass kebab sticks.
-Something to put the sticks in. Again, I use random boxes with holes on the top.
-I HIGHLY recommend a respirator of some sort. Not just one of those paper masks, but a respirator. I use this - http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457993861&sr=8-2&keywords=paint+respirator

As far as airbrushing, I can't help you there. I haven't done airbrushing at all, and don't plan to until I buy a house. That way I can setup permanent painting area.

Amazon is good for that right now. Look for N95, N100, or P100. The "P" means it also works for some oil-based particulates and also some organic vapors, whereas N is just 'normal' particles. 3M is a good brand.

3M's website has an awesome search interface for finding what product will work for you, disposable or otherwise, though since this is becoming a yearly thing, I just invested in a reusable mask:

$25 - 3M Half facepiece reusable respirator

$15 - 2-pack 3M NIOSH-approved P100 particulate and organic gas filter

(post-apocalyptic Winco trip incoming)

I have a set of worktunes with bluetooth for hearing protection. They're excellent. I love listening to music while working, and with a bluetooth connection, I wear them all day and listen to music that's on my phone. They don't get super loud, but that's by design; they're hearing protection after all. ;-)

This mask is great since it has the unlatching without removing feature. I use these filters when sanding or cutting wood, and these filters when spraying finishes.

Monitor Audio MR1s, they're quite a bit better than the Miccas too. There's also a larger 6.5" model (MR2) for £40 more. They're not powered thus not "plug and play" but you just need a small amp and a bit of copper wire. They're really pretty good.

If you must have something powered you can get these but don't expect the same sound quality.

As in, while acrylics are not generally as toxic in chemical composition as enamels and lacquers (though this is open to debate, see below), breathing aerosolized particles of paint is still not ideal. Ever stand in a room when someone used too much hairspray and there are clouds of it floating around? Or women's perfume counter? You get the idea. Or clouds of sanding dust in a construction site?

The recommedations I've gotten for good respirators are P95 type respirators, which are not cheap but come with replaceable cart filters.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1410634742&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=airbrush+respirator

Or, at minimum, an N95 dust/facemask. It's not nearly as effective, but it's better than nothing.

It's also open to debate how much safer acrylics really are. The truly water based/low VOC/low toxicity stuff is fine, but see e.g. a tamiya acrylic bottle, it will warn that you are spraying gylcol ethers.

See also MSDS materials safety disclosure sheets for particular brands of paint, if you're really concerned about it. Thinners, lacquers, and cleaners tend to be some seriously nasty stuff, as is cement, which in many liquid iterations contains Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or MEK.


MSDS sheets for multiple brands:

http://www.stanbridges.com.au/safety-data-sheets

Here is the one I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007JZ1MK6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

You still need filters, but those shouldn't be more than 15$ a pair or so. The mask is super comfortable to me. The only real upgrade I can think of is the eye protection.

I would recommend a better facemask. If you are using the cheap one, your breath is exiting the top of the facemask into the googles. Get something like one of these 3M respirators -- they come with all sorts of filters. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MCUT86/

They are pretty comfortable, and more importantly they prevent fogging by creating a good seal with your face. At least that was my experience. The other day I tried a cheapo face mask laying around, but after 5 minutes immediately switched it out and the fogging went away.

I like the 3m half face masks. They are more comfortable than disposable masks and you can get all kinds of cartridges for them. I used them for years along with full face masks. They are quite comfortable for a 12 hour shift.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B00AR63G12?th=1&psc=1
They also come apart quite easily so you can wash them in the sink.

Edit: then these filters for particulate, mold, fiberglass, they also cut down on welding gas odor https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007STCT00/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51R34JRMdfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&psc=1&refRID=F8BB7CR4DEB60NEMYRZP

Amazon order 3m ff401 I think. Then get a few of the combo cartridge filters organic/particulate. Should run you around 200 but your lungs can’t be replaced. If you don’t want to go full face, the the pale blue half face respirator that 3m makes. Both of these are serious business and work very well. Don’t buy small it’s like made for a child. Most people wear medium so start there unless you know you’re face is largehuge.


Edit: seriously don’t downvote me this is actually helpful :-(

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MCUT86

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009POI1V2

Less than $100 if you get next day. Comfortable enough to wear all day.

Local exhaust - vacuum system, fans more likely. Wearing a tight fitting ANSI-approved respirator with p-100 particulate filters. Receiving appropriate training with the respirator is key - knowing how to achieve a good seal is everything, being clean shaven is a must.

If the exposure is frequent enough, you may ask your employer to sample for total dust and respirable silica for an 8 hour time weighted average of your exposure. However, if this is only happening once a day for a short period of time I can almost guarantee your exposure will be under the OSHA limit for silica which is .05 mg/meter cubed.

Even in my work(mining, drying, screening strictly silica in fine cuts) over-exposures are rare.

Either way - protecting yourself while doing the dusty tasks is just smart. The links below are for the respirators I wear/provide my people. The half mask is rated to protect over 10x the exposure limit, while the full mask is rated over 25x the exposure limit. Also linked are appropriate p100 filters

1/2 Face Respirator

Full face respirator

p100 filters

>Whether it's actually lead or not, you should wear a good mask with an actual filter (not just one of those cheapos).

For those of us in the cheap seats, just watching this conversation and trying to learn what they can, when you say "good mask", are you talking about something like this.

Or a something that covers the entire face, like this.

Yeah... Zinc-Oxide is shitty.

Where I work they give us 3M reusable respirators with "cookie" filters:

Respirator

Filter

Notice the cost: 40-50 bucks to get started... I change my filters twice a day for the pink cookies (4 hours per set), and use a pair per day if I'm using higher quality organic filters. P100 filters clog up pretty quickly and they aren't meant for much more than minor exposure.

Make sure you shave before using your filter - that's pretty important. In my opinion, you should be wearing a respirator for any welding your doing. Iron oxide and other welding particulates are not good for you. For some fumes, the health effects are up for debate on hazard levels, but I'm not gonna breath the stuff to find out when I'm 60.

If your shop is having you work with galvanized materials, buff the galvanizing off of the weld area (and the backside, too!) to minimize exposure - don't worry about removing the zinc, because the welding arc does that anyway. You'll also get cleaner welds and less likelihood of wormholes caused by zinc oxide gassing out through your puddle. Ask your employer to provide adequate protection. No vent system in the world will allow you to weld that stuff without inhaling even a little of it. Here is some info about welding galvanized materials.

I'm not sure if you can force your employer to provide respirators - you might want to look into OSHA regulations (if in the US, obviously) about it... You might also ask /r/legaladvice or something - maybe there's an attorney there who specializes in industrial health who can help you.

Definitely decent hearing protection and a respirator, I use this one and it works great. Save your lungs and your ears.

If by "dust mask" you mean one of those white paper things, then yeah - get a nice P100 respirator:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FTEDMM/

Less than $17. Maybe $25 in-store? A pack of disposables probably costs at least half that, and the difference between the two is night and day. You won't smell a fart in the $17 respirator. A disposable mask should be disposed of, rather than used for some imagined protection. (OK, it does block 95% of non-oil-base airborne particles - better than nothing, and better than a rag. But that means it lets 5% through, and is only guaranteed if you have a good deal, which you won't. The respirator will block 99.97% and has a comfortable silicone seal.)

Note that I am saying this purely as a general advice when working with dusty stuff: I have no idea if there's something especially dangerous​ about the finish. The clear coat is probably a urethane, no special danger. The paint might be lead if it's old.

Also, if you have a lot of it, run it through a thickness planer instead of sanding. You may have to sharpen (or clean gummed up) knives afterwards, but the shavings are large, lower dust, and relatively easy to clean up, you won't go through acres of sandpaper, and it's so much faster and easier. And in theory, there are no nails.

A lot of people like to think that using non-toxic acrylics means you don't have to worry about air safety. Inhaling atomized paint down to your lungs is just as deadly as any other kind of paint. Get yourself a good respirator whether you get a booth or not. Just make sure the filter cartridges you get are for organic vapors, like these.

I use this one. It does a great job, but in my experience it helps if you are clean shaven. Throw some of these on it and you'll be hot to trot. I don't get any extra goggle fog than I do just wearing my goggles on their own.

I don't if I'm rough turning green wood, but usually do wear one if I'm turning dry wood, and always when sanding. I use this one from 3M, which fits under the face shield pretty nicely and isn't too uncomfortable.

Thanks for the response. My company will reimburse me for respirator stuff but I didn't know that when I initially bought it so I'll have to see if they can do it without the receipt which is long gone. Did you mean this purple one? I was going to get these ones:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Advanced-Particulate-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POHH94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487640450&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+2297

Would these be the best option for silica/floor dust?

Easy:

SMSL SA 50 (£56) + Wharfedale Diamond 9.0 (£40!) + Speaker cable (£6) + 3.5mm to RCA cable (£8.5) = £110.5

PS: Those speakers usually sell for more than twice the sum. That is a great deal (probably clearing out sale).

I purchased an Electric Lead Melting Pot and then went to a couple tire shops in my area and asked for their old lead tire weights. I brought them an empty 5 gallon bucket and they gave me a full one. Tire weights are dirty and made with other materials so when they melt you have to scrape the cruft off the top. I then poured the clean lead into Ingots. Then when I was ready I would melt the clean lead down and make my jigs. They worked great and the cost was way cheaper than buying my own. If you look at the site that I got the stuff from they have many different options for molds. It is time consuming but rewarding.
NOTE You are working with lead. Wear a Respirator

What I consider essential on the fabrication side:

Huge air tank and hoses. Lots of air tools (glue sprayer, paint sprayer, saws, cutoff wheels, air chuck, nail gun, etc). Seriously, this gets a ton of use and is absolutely necessary IMO.

Table saw. Must have a sturdy fence and be able to rip at least 2 feet wide. Rockewell is basically the cheapest one I know of that's decent. Take a look online, lots of people selling higher end ones, used, for a few hundred.

Router with circle jig and the appropriate bits.

Decent quality drill with spare batteries (I'm currently using the 20v lithium Dewalts, they've been great). Jig saw (I like the Skil brand with laser guide), reciprocating saw. Various drill bits, unibits, and saws.

Palm sander, and pads with various grits.

Bench grinder (wire wheel and stone if possible). I keep a full size angle grinder around as well, with some flap and cutoff disks.

Bench vise.

Propane torch, preferably, with easy-start (no striker/lighter, a button start of some sort)

A decent quality dust mask. I use these. Trust me, it's WAY better than breathing in fiberglass dust, or even just MDF dust.

Tons of latex gloves, "chip brushes", and cheapo tupperware for resin work (mix in tupperware, let it dry, bend to crack out resin, re-use until it's destroyed).

Sawhorses, or at least, durable garbage cans.

Shop vac.

Razor blades. I buy single-edge 100 packs and just throw them away as soon as they're not sharp. For cutting carpet, vinyl, etc. it's much better than scissors.

A decent quality hot glue gun and lots of glue sticks (this is how you position rings for custom doors, dashes, etc)

I just picked up one of these too and it works great. I like the fact that the exhaust vent is down-firing so it doesn't fog up my safety glasses. The only problem I had was that I found it nearly impossible to figure out which set of filters/attachments I needed from the various pages I read online. I eventually, after two rounds of purchasing, ended up with:

• 3m 7500 series mask
  
• 6000 series cartridge filters
  
• 502 filter adapters
  
• 2000 series big pink P100 prefilters
  
  Having read all the instructions it seems like there is a way to skip #2 and #3 and just connect up the big pink P100 filters to the respirator, maybe with another adaptor in between, but I'm happy with what I ended up with.

I second this. I bought a 3M respirator from Amazon (this one I think), and it's worked great. Looks like I need to change my filters, though; didn't know about the 30-day limit. (I've only used it about eight times, for a few minutes each, so I'm way under the forty hours of use limit...but if it's whichever comes first...it's been well past a month.)

Ah, good question. I use 3M 7000 series Half-face Respirator, it's the top of the line model and is only about ~$30 US with filters if you get a good package deal.


I've used a few different filters and there are notable differences and exactly what you would expect. The big bulky OV/P95 Cartridges impact breathing the most, the 3M 2297 P100 filters are a significant improvement in ease of breathing, and lastly the 3M Advanced 2291 P100 filters are the least impactful as their are purposely designed for ease of breathing. I started with them in that order and have transitioned to the 2291 filters, a vast improvement and likely more than adequate for pollution considerations. The OV/P95 Cartridges are overkill and are what professional painters and chemists use, plus they're more expensive.


Yes, you will get lots of condensation buildup, but I don't find that to be too problematic.

I have this 3M one and I use these filters on it. Honestly, I've used it only a handful of times in the 8 years I've been exploring. Once in a place full of black mold, another in a place where all the insulation had fallen onto the floor and created a dust cloud as you walked. It's kind of a personal judgement call. If you feel more comfortable wearing one all the time, go ahead. Just don't get a gas mask unless you want to look silly (or like a bioterrorist).

Thanks for the links. At the moment those are a bit out of my budget. But you have given me something to think about to try and decide what I want to set up.


For now I've just ordered an SMSL M3 because the interference I'm getting through the headphones is driving me crazy. I might at some point pair that with something like the SMSL SA-50 to power my speakers, but I need to think about that, do I want to have something to run a sub-woofer?

 

Happy to ditch the Z3's just looking for a budget start option for now, unfortunately doesn't look like that sub is available in the UK.

 

Thanks again.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MCUT86/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

(exhaust air is directed down so it doesn't fog up hood)

With

http://www.amazon.com/3M-2097-Particulate-Filter-Organic/dp/B00328IAO0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=04H4DZQFZJ44T79AV2TD

Not gonna provide the best vapor protection but it would help and it fits easily under a hood.

We’re talking about these, right? I’ve seen them get hit and pieces fly off. Not the vent, but the plastic shell bit. I don’t know if those are the exact model I’ve seen or if there are stronger versions available, but I wouldn’t trust them as face protection.

Get a full face respirator. I am so glad I bought one years ago. I've used it many times. It's the best dust mask and eye protection you'll ever own. And a good one with the right kind of filters will even keep foul smells out.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002STR86/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1452636278&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=respirator

Money well spent, and not just for your diaper changes.

Well if you don't mind puking your brains out for a day or two, by all means weld away bud! BREATHE DEEP! lol Trust me man, don't do it...you will regret it, death is probably favorable over the sickness you will experience.

Just grind off the galvanizing in the area and make sure you are in a well ventilated area and out of the smoke plume. I would probably wear one of these too.

Go for the 3M 7500 Half Face series. It's silicone so it gives a really comfortable fit over long periods of time and make sure you buy the correct filters. Here are some links:

Filters:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000U749VE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1A7ASPLKOD0I6

Mask:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008MCUT86/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P01X9KQVX701

You do not need pants. I just use jeans, and the the apron over a jacket. Here is what I use:

Get one of these for sure.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Face-piece-Reusable-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B000FTEDMM/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y
+
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00328IAO0/ref=oh_details_o03_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gloves - I bought a few pairs. You will use them up at first, till you learn what not to hold on to :) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MRQAJG/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jacket has some options. Sleeves and an apron:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AKIRIA/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
+
http://www.amazon.com/Welding-Sleeves-Leather-Elastic-Resistant/dp/B002GI9A3C/ref=pd_sim_hi_48

or a plain jacket, but look around. This price on amazon seems high. You might be able to find something like this locally for less.
http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770488-Leather-Welding-Jacket/dp/B002VECL3W/ref=pd_sim_hi_42

And I use this :http://www.amazon.com/Miller-Genuine-Leather-Indura-Welding/dp/B003IL2RCM/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1382001569&sr=1-10&keywords=miller+jacket

A respirator.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Comfort-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B00IF7RCU6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457082707&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+quick+respirator

Filters are $4

The straps are adjustable to fit your head, the size only matters to determine how much face the mask part covers. I have a big head and this fits me nicely. If you have a small face you might want a medium. It's nice because you can flip a quick latch to drop it away from your face easily

I like this one from 3m, it is inexpensive but i feel like it does a good job.

Like others I also use the 3M, I have a 6503 with the 2097 filter. I'll just add that it works great for other things as well. I have a great dane that was taking some medicine that didn't sit well with him. Lets just say that I had a lot to clean up, twice, and the only way I was able to do it was by putting the mask on and getting at it. I recoil even now as I think about it but there was no odor that came through the mask which was of immense help.

Lmfao, even a N95 respirator will only protect your lungs.
What you need is a fucking gas mask with 60926 filter to properly protect your eyes and skin

In the past, I've found that this mask works well in protecting one from spray and gas used by police during more, shall we say, extreme protesting situations. As for pepper spray in your eyes, nothing works as well as anti-fog scuba goggles. Are you going to look strange? Yes. Will you be able to see and breathe? Also, yes.

I'm still working on taser resistance. For the time being, thick clothing is your best defense. Jeans often won't do the trick, but I've seen thicker cargo pants do the trick and a thicker jacket, one that can prevent the barbs from coming into contact with your skin, work well enough. Layers help too, and considering how cold it is in many of the protest areas, it just makes sense.

I made a thread about this in another subreddit and got some good responses from u/yogabagabbedlygook who lives in the West - where we typically have our forest fires:



>I use 3M 7000 series Half-face Respirator, it's the top of the line model and is only about ~$30 US with filters if you get a good package deal.
>
>I've used a few different filters and there are notable differences and exactly what you would expect. The big bulky OV/P95 Cartridges impact breathing the most, the 3M 2297 P100 filters are a significant improvement in ease of breathing, and lastly the 3M Advanced 2291 P100 filters are the least impactful as their are purposely designed for ease of breathing. I started with them in that order and have transitioned to the 2291 filters, a vast improvement and likely more than adequate for pollution considerations. The OV/P95 Cartridges are overkill and are what professional painters and chemists use, plus they're more expensive.
>
>Yes, you will get lots of condensation buildup, but I don't find that to be too problematic.

So would this pack of N95 Respirators be good for me to keep some in my car, at home, etc?

Also, now that you've taught me so much and I'm researching everything is there any advantage/disadvantage to having at least one of the P100 Respirators on hand?

What common things would a P100 be better for than an N95?

What things would you use your N95 on to prevent wasting your P100?

I'm currently using this one

https://www.amazon.com/3M-7162-Full-Facepiece-Spray-Respirator/dp/B0002STR86

It's pretty good, it blocks pretty much all the fumes. I believe when it comes to your health you shouldn't be cheap about it.

2097 is pretty great. Cheap and compact.

The 60926 however is their "everything" filter. Organic and non-organic vapors, oils, odors, chlorine... I recently had to use one in a room flooded with toxic ozone. Couldn't smell a thing, never got lightheaded. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009POHLRC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well FWIW this mask and this mask both exceed military standards for CBN protection. So that could, if you weren't in a direct blast area, help you get somewhere to safety within 40-80 hours. Just don't expect to be eating or drinking in those things. Or having facial hair if you need to use them. I might have to spring for the goatee look. *Sigh* And also get my eyes lasered.

Edit: For clarification, if you're concerned about CBN stuff and you go with the 3M mask these are the filters to get. You want P100 Acid/Gas filters.

Do yourself a favor - buy a respirator. They're like $15. Your future self thanks you.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FTEDMM/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_KusXtb04P8EKT

• If you're going to weld a lot, use a respirator, at the very least a disposable one but I'm using this one from 3m and it's worthwhile, although the filters can get expensive.
  I had fume extraction at my welding school and it still didn't do the job, although stick is even worse than MIG. Nowadays I'd never weld without a respirator.
  
  
• If you're doing stringers in T joints, rest the nozzle on the bottom plate and they will come out perfect
  
  
• If they have synergic and non synergic machines, use the non synergic ones or you won't learn to set up the wire feed and voltage separately, I find I've learned more with older machines that you have to fine tune to perfection than with newer machines that will run smooth almost no matter what you dial
  
  
• Don't hold any questions for yourself, be annoying if you have to, but get the most out of your teachers now in school and later when you work try to stick around the good welders and ask a lot of questions

All modern steel contains manganese to some degree, which has been linked to parkinson's disease. In addition, the ceramic wool refractory material used in propane forges releases small particles during use, some of which are known carcinogens.

Your best bet is to get a full facemask with P95 or greater filters. Actually, I'm about to order either this one, or these two in conjunction:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-7162-Full-Facepiece-Spray-Respirator/dp/B0002STR86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394061955&sr=8-3&keywords=3m+full+face+respirator

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=pd_sim_hi_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0J14BMVRM3HQVZ9R6XRV

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DPG82-11C-Concealer-Anti-Fog-Safety/dp/B000RKQ1NI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

Hi again, I have been doing some research, but I haven't reached a conclusion so I decided to wait and buy after christmas.

I have a new contender :
http://www.amazon.es/Magnat-Monitor-Supreme-100-reflector/dp/B001GNC0JY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450343392&sr=8-5&keywords=magnat

I have found a lot of nice reviews about them in spanish audio forums. They are from germany and available in amazon spain. The problem is than I haven't been able to find measurements about them. Where do you usually search measurements?

These are pasive so I suppose I would need an amp. I have been seeing cheap amps, what amp do you recommend?

I have 2 amps in mind :

• Lepy LP_ 2020A for 27 euros : http://www.amazon.es/dp/B00O0QUH94/ref=twister_B00QA2QZJ2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• SMSL SA-50 for 70 euros : http://www.amazon.es/SA-50-TDA7492-Stereo-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B008Y7S198/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450343659&sr=8-1&keywords=SMSL+SA+50
  
  

3M 6502QL Rugged Comfort Quick Latch Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator.

I could never get into using the disposable dust masks, so I was honestly surprised how much I liked this one.

As far as fogging up glasses, I haven't had any issues (granted only wearing safety glasses), but it is designed so the air you exhale goes downward specifically to reduce fogging issues.

And I keep my beard shorter, so I can't speak to how well it works with a larger beard.

i hear ya. props to you for caring.

chemicals are an issue. i try to avoid them as much as possible. consistent daily cleaning, elbow grease, a good scrubby or steel wool, and good old fashioned soap can do most of the work and keep those ovens shiny and new looking. if you think you definitely need the chemicals daily, buy a couple respirators and filters, (they arent expensive, like 20 bucks) as well as goggles and gloves. make it policy to wear them anytime they use harsh chemicals and enforce that policy. sleep soundly.

respirator-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MCUULW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that being said, there are a lot of respiratory land mines in the kitchen- smoke, grease in the air, flour and other particulates can all cause problems as well as chemicals.

This one is actually quite popular for people who want a mini amp.
Also it sounds good, which is really one thing you should look out for.
I guess the price in pound will be 65 pounds or something. Maybe it's cheaper in the UK.

Edit: 50 GBP

Safety glasses and a big face shield are critical. If I'm grinding a lot or grinding ANY thoriated TIG electrode I'll add a respirator with the pink P100 filter cartridges. Don't forget hearing protection! If you wear earmuffs then behind the neck ones like these will fit with all the other gear.

Even the same exact pile of powder will have scoops varying as much as double/half due to how you scoop it. I use the Gemini-20 which is pretty reliable as long as you use it properly and weigh in the neighborhood of 20-30mg+ and dilute volumetrically; you're not going to get any more reliable unless you chip in at least $2-300. Controlling air currents is still pretty important and if you're really particular, you can grab particulate filters but meh, I've gotten comfortable with it. I actually trust my vendors a FUCK TON more than I do street drugs, both in purity and a feedback system of other people that know what they're doing, who sometimes send it for GC/MS testing for everybody.

Edit: Made an info thread for more info on respirators here.

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Mask (better named as respirators if they filter) needs to be rated for N95 filtration or above - regular surgical masks do not filter the microscopic particles harming your lungs right now. Aside from that, the MOST important part of wearing a respirator mask for filtering PM2.5 particles (from the wildfires) is ensuring a proper face seal - without it, effectiveness is reduced to that of a non-filtering surgical mask of something like ~60% filtration, which is crap.

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If you're using the disposable versions, make sure you adjust the metal nose strip properly - mask should cover all of your nose up to the bridge, and down to a bit of a lip around the bottom of your chin. Feel for airflow around the edges as you breath in and adjust accordingly. Shave facial hair if you have any, it prevents sealing.

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If you're buying a better respirator for a better rubber face seal (and an expectation that CA will be on fire again in the near future), try a 3M 7500 Respirator with a corresponding N95 or higher cartridge.

Yup. Anything that says VOC rated.

Incidentally, I bought myself & my gf masks that vent downwards, which was huge for me, as they don't fog up my glasses. Also, the silicon is a lot more comfortable than the rubber ones. This is the first I've owned that I don't find irritating.

Can you tell me about VOC and respirators? If I was applying a liner that is 2.6 VOC, what does that even mean? Is something like this enough to be safe?

I am out of my element.

While those would be good for sanding or yard work in dusty conditions, I was talking more about something with more applications and a close face fit. Last summer I was spray-staining a fence, and an n90 wouldn't be good for something like that. With this I was unable to taste or smell any of the aerosolized oil stain until I took the mask off.

I probably wouldn't consider being in potential asbestos or lead environments without a fully-sealed face mask either.

Despite what people say you should always use a respirator and not a dust mask. Atomized acrylic paint and air brush cleaner are no where near save to breath. I would suggest this one, or this one.

It is save to say that they are non toxic when used with your paint brush, but you don't want to atomize it and breath it in. Like you don't want to huff anything out of a spray can.

I have a beard and I really enjoy this 3M mask. Picked up a couple 2097 p100 Filters. What's nice is I can swap out the filters depending on what I'm doing.

Looking into getting into airbrushing and getting the necessary equipment. I'm carefully looking through respirator masks since I want to work with enamel/lacquers and don't want lung cancer and saw in the tools wiki this mask.

Would replacing the default cartridge and using this organic vapor cartridge, organic vapor cartridge be what I would have to do? Thanks!

N95 and N100 masks are appropriate for fire/smoke particulates but not for gasses or carbon monoxide/dioxide. They are also only good for about 8 hours of heavy usage before they need to be replaced.

I walk a lot, so I picked up a couple of these when the air quality was creeping up on 200 the other day during the worst of it. Didn't end up needing them, but keeping them on hand since these burns are a yearly occurrence.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MCV43K

This is also nice to have bookmarked (air quality map with multiple sensors):

https://www.purpleair.com/map#12.29/34.07144/-118.3271

Something in this range is perfect. Paired with P100 mask filters.

3M Rugged Comfort Quick Latch Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator 6503QL/49492, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RCU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fLg-AbK2NCQJZ

To add to u/King_Creepalot, though a military surplus mask and filter would work for you, I would suggest something more like this with these filters.


These are commonly used in applications like painting and shop work. Though a military surplus mask would work, that might be overkill as those are designed to deal with everything from tear gas, to chemical weapons, to biological agents.


The big benefits here are:

1. Milsurp filters can often contain dangerous chemicals and require through research to make sure they're safe for use.
   
   
2. These light use masks are a lot cheaper and lighter.

I personally like the N100's. I hate dust boogers, and the N100 is the only one that will block out mold, which I am very sensitive to. If you are getting good lumber that has no lumber mold on it the N95 should be fine however. You probably don't need the P as you will just be dealing with particulates. However, I have the half face respirator with these pink P100 3M filters. The fit is a lot better than a disposable, and the replacement filters are like 12 bucks for a 2 pack, not too bad as they will last a decent while.

For anyone else reading, you don't need an $80 mask, any NOSH P-100 rated particulate respirator will do just fine, including this one. Just make sure you have a good seal on your face and shouldn't be an issue.

These 3M masks are pretty descent, and have several different filters for various safety hazards (e.g. paint, asbestos, etc)

3M makes all kinds of good masks, but in general they come with 'attachments'. So you buy the filters and screw them on both sides.

I have both particulate filters (non gas) and gas filters (that also do particulates) but there's a huge range of different ones for different purposes.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MCUT86

This is a very common model and works well.

https://smile.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-60926-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POHLRC

Here's an example of filter 60926 which does gas & vapor, organic, acid gas, ammonia, methylamine, and formaldehyde. Would most likely cover pepper spray too.

Do you know what kind of respirator to look for? Something like this is common. I have one like this and it does the job. As you can see you don't need much money. Hell, I'll buy it for you if you seriously can't afford one. Seriously.
Once you get into welding and making coin, then start looking into spending the money on a nicer respirator. Personally, I still use the ol' 3M because I work in the field.

Go to a local safety supply shop and they can give you a couple tips to make sure you're buying the right size.

For now at least wear a dust mask. Especially when you have grinding to do.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B00AR63G12

try this one it's better

with these for dust
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00328IAO0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00AR63G12&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05RTG7C32WSA7VDPJ52J

I have glasses and yes it does make a difference because glasses fog up and it's always a pain.

keep in mind once you open your cartridges filters they are really only good for about 30 days.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/565206O/3m-cartridge-and-filter-replacement-faqs.pdf?fn=CartChangeFAQ.pdf

For scope: get a used tek on craigslist

For function generator: this kit

For iron: Hakko 888

You probably want a bench PSU as well: Korad 3005D

You need safety gear too!

• Respirator - half face with P100 filters
  
  
• Goggles
  
  
• Gloves
  
  Don't forget blank PCBs and etchant, breadboard, jumper wires, etc.

Read this.

Then get one of these (ensuring that you get an air-tight seal with the right size, best bet is to go to a hardware store and try a few on, holding the inhalation valves closed (shown here)) with a few sets of these filters, as they will need to be changed regularly.

This mask combined with these cartridges will let you walk through tear gas like you're invincible.

3M also makes a half-face respirator that just covers the nose and mouth.

This kind of respirator is less comfortable than a full-face respirator, because it presses on one's face - not suitable for long-term wear. It also doesn't filter as well as the full-face respirator. But it filters a lot better than just wearing one of those cloth masks.

It's not sexy, but if you want proper protection and comfort, go for a respirator. For smoke protection, you really want a P100 filter.