(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best audio & video connectors & adapters

Ok. SO, a couple points of note.

• This equipment, especially the subwoofer is VERY VERY undersized for the size of the space that you're talking about. That's a HUGE room. I just want you to know that up front so your hopes aren't too high with this. That said, this is free equipment and you'll probably LOVE it.
  
• That Receiver is/was a very nice receiver for its time, but it is now old and sliiiightly outdated. While the receiver will passthrough 4k resolution, it is not compatible with 4k/60fps, it will not pass through HDR/Dolby Vision/HLG. Again, I doubt this will be a problem for you, but I want to mention it.
  
  With all that out of the way, I will address your questions directly.
  
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  > I have gone to sites like Crutchfield in an attempt to learn what cables I should use, and it seems the most recommended cables would be ones with 14 gauge, and banana ends (I think that’s the term). I have seen spools of 14gau wire on Amazon as well as banana ends that are DIY to put on the wire. Should I pick those up?
  
  
  Amazon. Just get oxygen-free 14-gauge Speaker Wire. Maybe even a 100' spool and a 50' Spool. It's not expensive, and it's great stuff. You can even go cheaper with the AmazonBasics brand. It isn't oxygen free pure copper blah blah blah but It's even cheaper at $16 vs $27 for 100'. Your call, you likely won't hear the difference. But I like the peace of mind for $11
  
  Personally, I really like banana plugs. It makes things SO much easier to hookup, move around, plug and un-plug, and ESPECIALLY really helps organize things in the back of the receiver. After trying several brands, MediaBridge is my absolutely favorite. Very easy to use and very secure. $26 will cover every speaker wire, both into the back of the speaker, and into the back of the receiver.
  
  ​
  
  > What about the subwoofer? Is there a different type of wire I’ll need for that? Can you buy PolkAudio power cables for that type of woofer? What should I expect to pay for cables?
  
  
  The subwoofer power cable is basically a generic PC power supply cable. Here is one on Amazon for $7 shipped, prime.
  
  ​
  
  For getting signal to the subwoofer, you need a single RCA male-to-male cable that will go from your receivers LFE pre-out, to the sub. So you'll need to buy a sub signal cable in whatever length you need to get from receiver to wherever you place your sub. In any case they are really affordable. I recommend AmazonBasics yet again. 25' cable for $10 here! They are pretty and very high build quality for the price.
  
  ​
  
  SO, to summarize you could have this all running for say $60 or so, plus whatever HDMI cables you need :)
  
  
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I think that sounds like a very good start. I think the DV62's will do nicely for a 2.0 setup.

>Next up do you think it would be better to add a sub or a center?

I think you should add a sub next unless you feel the dialogue is lacking or if you have off center seating positions. Then you could entertain a center before the sub.

> I'm sure I can find a good tutorial for wiring speakers and setting up a receiver, but do you know of any off the top of your head?

Check online but you should be fine with HDMI in the HDMI inputs, speakers connect to the speaker outputs and you're done.

>I guess I didn't realize that the receiver was going to be able to transfer video also.

Yep that's the point of the AVR. It's does audio and video (AV in AVR) switching. Makes life a bit easier.

>everything w/ HDMI plugged into the receiver and then 1 extra HDMI cable from receiver into the TV? Is that right?

Yep you got it...it's just that simple.

>is there specific quality speaker wire that is needed? Just a quick Amazon search brought this up. Good enough? Any recommendations? Do I need banana connectors that I've heard some people talk about on here?

Nah just get some 16 gauge or lower wire and you're fine. I'm not a wire snob I've used Amazon basics (I know not oxygen free, not prayed over by the Dhali Lama, or energized by the special cosmic dust that unicorns fart) and it's been fine. Banana connects aren't necessary but they do make stuff pretty simple. If you get the screw type you just put together the ends and plug them in. Easy.

I'm pretty sure the cable that Me4Prez linked is a composite cable for a PS2 (the end is proprietary, not HDMI). I'm not 100% sure about HDMI to Composite but I know for a fact that HDMI/DisplayPort to VGA require and active adapter to work. From the description of this "HDMI to Composite" cable it would appear I am correct

> NOTE: This cable functions as a signal transmitter, but NOT a signal converter. Not Compatible with PC / DVD / PS3 / XBOX. Most PCs do not support that feature. If you aren't sure whether your video card / cable box supports this, please do not hesitate to contact us before purchasing.

>NOTE: Since HDMI is digital signal and RCA is analog signal, in order for the cable to function well, Please confirm that the HDMI source output devices support digital to analog signal conversion function. If you aren't sure whether your devices have analog signal conversion function, please kindly check with your user manual or contact us confirm it before purchasing, we will reply you as soon as possible.

If you were to purchase the active adapter you would also need a straight through cable for RCA -> RCA like this AND a regular HDMI cable.

Didn't see anything posted yet by anyone else, but if you want to start any gaming on it right away, I'd recommend ordering some bnc to rca adapters, stereo to mono adapter, and I also recommend some kind of universal adapter with s-video.

This is all to hold you over with any retro consoles until you can fully enjoy the RGB inputs if you choose to go that route. It will still look great over composite, but s-video is an amazing improvement.

I understand. PS2 homebrew can be daunting if you’re not used to it. Anyway, they run in 480p. There is an incomplete game list that I saw before but I can’t seem to locate it now. From what I understand most games work without bugs though.

The easiest way to get a memory card with FreeMCBoot installed is to buy one online. They usually go for around €10 on eBay. When you start the PS2 with the FMCB memory card inserted, the FMCB menu will show up, with a few homebrew apps preinstalled. One of them is uLaunchElf. This is a file browser for the PS2 that allows you to copy, delete and launch apps. Insert a USB with GSM downloaded to it into the PS2. Then, using uLaunchElf, you can follow the tutorial I linked to above to copy it to the correct place on the FMCB memory card. Alternatively, you can buy this card with GSM preinstalled:

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Free-MCBoot-1-966-FMCB-Playstation-2-16MB-Memory-Card-ESR-HDL-OPL-MORE/273485368998?hash=item3facff8ea6:g:fasAAOSwlTFdzX9J

Then you can follow the second tutorial I linked to and start GSM automatically. Alternatively, you can navigate to GSM blind (easy to do, just memories how many times you have to press up or down on the FMCB menu and press X to start it).

Before you get a memory card, if your PS2 is a slim, check the bottom of it for the model number. If it’s SCPH-90004 with a date code of 8C or later, it won’t run FMCB. All other PS2 models will run it.

Regarding the cable, an alternative is to get the PS2 component cable. Get a good-quality one for about €20, or HD Retrovision’s cable if you feel like spending more for excellent quality. Then get a component-to-VGA adapter, plug the red, blue and green wires of the component cable into it, and connect the adapter to your monitor. This will work exactly like the official VGA adapter. This is the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00213KFHW/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You’ll need speakers for sound, of course. I use this cable to connect my white and red wires (there’s two red wires on a component cable) to standard PC speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CZWVQ2G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will allow you to play PS2 games with excellent picture and sound quality. PC speakers are far better than a TV’s speakers.

Recording is very easy with some time and a craptop. Amarec doesn't eat much cpu/ram, but it will give you fairly large file sizes so be prepared. It's pretty easy to use 50GB of spce for a single tournament.

What you will do for basic recording/streaming is getting a entry level capture card like a Dazzle DVC 100. If you can't find a Dazzle because they are discontinued I'd recommend the Hauppauge USB Live 2 as that is what I use. You will also need 3 RCA splitters for stereo and a cable like this. You plug the splitters into the A/V inputs on the TV then run the Wii into the correct splitters and run the RCA cable into the other end of the splitters. You will then run that cable into the capture device. Things change slightly if you choose to use Svideo, Component, or HDMI to record.

Beanwolf's guide is really good for starters. If you want to stream you will need a fair amount of computer power, but something like AMD 860K 3.7Ghz with 8GB of ram and a 2GB newish graphics card should be fine.

I never done the AT, but I take a lot of pictures. I've found that I mostly only care about the pictures with people in them. Take pictures of yourself at cool places. Take pictures of the people you meet. Take pictures of yourself with any friends that you make. A lot of cell phones have adequate cameras for outdoor stills. You only really need a big camera if you want to take artsy pictures. If you use a camera phone, note that the selfie camera often is lower-quality than the main camera.

Put your phone in airplane mode when you don't need calls/text/internet to save power. If you find yourself needing more power, I recommend the Anker batteries. They are really popular with Ingressers.

• Anker 9000mAh (~$37) - Will fully charge an iPhone 6+ or Galaxy S5 about 2.5 times. I use this one; it weighs 218g.
  
• Anker 12000mAh (~$46) - Will fully charge and iPhone 6+ or Galaxy S5 about 3.3 times. Probably weighs under 290g.

Read through the links before you add anything to your cart, the tools at the top are what I personally use and can vouch for, the tools at the bottom are in kits and case save you some money if you only do this once in a while but I can't vouch for the quality.

Crimping tool(17$):

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_piZVAbZZVWPM7

Has a built in perfect cut wire strippers

Connectors(9$):

Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YiZVAb72959BY

Cat5e Cable(25$) (200ft, pre-made but you can clip and make your own out of it)

200FT Feet CAT5 Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable - RJ45 Computer Networking Wire Cord (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XBHM6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RkZVAbZ8D2F00

The cable is actually not that good of a deal because you can get 1000ft for 50$ without any ends, but I was aiming for sub 50$.

Total cost: 51$

Additional extras I'd recommend:

Cable tester(8$) tests if the cables and connections you made are good. A great investment for beginners and pros)

Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tnZVAb616Y59H

Cable boots(6$) protect your cable ends from having the tips broken and looks cleaner IMO


uxcell 100 Pcs Soft Plastic Ethernet RJ45 Cable Connector Boots Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K82RNX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qoZVAb54MHXCJ


They also have combo kits like this that exist, I can't speak to their quality but the tools are simple tools so this may save you some scratch

>UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper +100 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug Network Tool Kits (Crimper315) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hqZVAb8RM9GVK

Has the tester and everything, includes a wire stripper which is nice

>Maxmoral 7 in 1 Cable Tester + Crimp Crimper + Wire Stripper + 50 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug + 100 Cable Ties + 100 Cable Cord Holder Clips + 2 Ethernet Connector Network Tool Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S5X6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrZVAb10QP91E

Same deal, has boots though.

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's pretty easy. One minor consideration is that some new 2.5" SSDs are slightly thinner than some older 2.5" HDDs. (7mm height vs your Spinpoint's 9.5mm height ) but almost all slender SSDs will include a stick-on plastic spacer to make sure that your new SSD fits snugly in the old hard drive's location or drive sled. (something that will look like this: https://www.amazon.com/Edge-7mm-9-5mm-Spacer-Adapter/dp/B014LQM6I2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ssd+spacer&qid=1566241314&s=electronics&sr=1-4

) But like I said, most thin SSDs actually will come with that spacer, and often you don't need it anyway. Good Luck!

I see what you're talking about. I'm not so concerned about noise as I am about doing this in a weird/hacky roundabout way.

Why stereo? I get that it's nice, but you're going to double the number of buses used per channel, which seems pretty wasteful.
Or to put it another way, it makes more sense to have 16 completely separate monitor channels than it does to have 8 stereo channels and probably end up sharing them. The logic being, if you're running a large enough event to require 8 monitors, you'll probably eventually need more monitors or buses. It can be a major pain to re-route everything to make it work.


If you do somehow have 16 buses to spare, run them all into passive DI boxes via a gender changer adapter or cable (https://btpa.com/MIC3-XX.html for custom length female to female xlr) and use a TS 1/4in to 1/4 TRS (aka insert cable) to get your individual mixes. This usually works for passive DI boxes, almost never works with active boxes. You'll be buying 16 DI boxes (and probably a couple spares), 16 female to female XLR cables (and probably a couple spares) and 8 insert cables (aka 1/4in unbal to TRS, probably at least 1 spare).

Or, the other route is to use the Shure a85f in-line inpedance matcher (or similar) to get your XLR channels to 1/4in TS https://www.amazon.com/Shure-A85F-Transformer-Female-4-Inch/dp/B0006NMUHW, then use a Y adapter to get to TRS https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP-117-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O54
I didn't bother to spec anything nicer than Hosa cabling here, you probably should look into something nicer if this is the route you take.

**


You can also try not using the DI boxes and losing the impedance matching. Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't. Hard to tell on paper if you'll get away with it. I'd personally try one channel worth this way and if it works roll it out to the rest. It's a much simpler, single cable setup (although technically "wrong"). BTPA.com and others will make you custom cabling, and if your order is pretty large they'll work with you on price if you ask.

My PC is finally starting to hit an age barrier I think. I just bought 3 new Corsair ML120 fans. At first I thought it would be a simple swap in my case (Antec Twelve Hundred) but it seems like it may be more difficult. I was actually able to figure out how to get the old fan and rpm controller out of the HDD bay but my issue lies within connecting the new fans. They require a 4 pin connector. I've read the 4th pin is to manually control the rpm of the fan with software or such however I don't see any 4 pin connectors on my mobo besides the CPU fan. Here is my mobo if anyone can help me find a solution. I found this thing from an older post somewhere else. It seems like if I can find a place to put the 4 pin connector on my board then it could control the speed of all 3 fans which I wouldn't mind at all.

​

Any other suggestions? Thanks!!

My first fightstick was a Qanba Q1. I replaced the stick and buttons with Sanwa parts as per the usual advice. I really dug it. So much so, in fact, I'm thinking about buying a Qanba Drone for a backup stick and adding a Sanwa JLF and Hayabusa buttons(my personal preference ever since I bought a Hori RAP4). I'm also currently planning a custom fightstick build, but thats neither here nor there. If you're set on buying a stick, the Qanba Drone should make a great first one, assuming the quality is on par with the Qanba Q1. Its a bit on the light side but it can be weighted. You can get stick on weights at any hobby store like Hobbytown USA etc. Just remember to switch out the stick and buttons with Sanwa parts. Heres a video guide for switching out the stick and buttons.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sexNFxi38M

Just an FYI for when you're removing the balltop, you twist the balltop off. Do not twist the screwdriver. Thats just for holding the shaft so that it doesn't spin while trying to unscrew the balltop.

I hope you find what your looking for whether you go this route or not

Parts:

https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Drone-PlayStation-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=qanba+q1&qid=1565635749&s=electronics&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2-54mm-Pitch-Female-Adapter/dp/B00W948IDG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-jlf-tp-8yt-joystick/

https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-obsf-30mm-pushbuttons-black/

I have a Razer Blade 15 and I personally use this dock.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T2RW54X/

I originally had a USB-C dock instead of the thunderbolt 3 and whenever I would run anything that used the NVIDIA graphics card it would make the screens flicker. (USB-C is 10gbps while thunderbolt 3 is 40gbps)

This dock runs everything perfectly and is the best I could find for a reasonable price.

Note: if you have non display port monitors you need an active dongle instead of a passive one. I have two HDMI monitors (1080p & ultrawide 1080p) and I had bought two dongles but they were passive so I returned them and got active dongles (linked below).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5DX296/

As for charging, the Razer Blade 15 needs a 200+ watt charger while both USB-C and thunderbolt 3 max out at 90w. I really wanted the single cable setup as well, but the two cables are a must.

Hope this helped fellow gamer

First play through a few and find one that you like. Then play that one a few times and get to where you can play beginning to end without too much trouble.

Watch some speedruns of it. Start emulating those strats into your playthrough and time yourself. ???? Profit.

As far as streaming, cheapest way would be to just emulate, use your keyboard or get an adapter (check Amazon) for your SNES/NES controller, use a wiimote with a bluetooth adapter, ps3 controller, logitech usb, whatever the hell floats your boat.

Use OBS (broadcasting software, google is your friend) to stream on twitch. Look up guides for the set up. It isnt hard, if you have any trouble then report back here.

NOW: if you want to stream from your actual console, here's what you need:

1. Check the tv that you are going to use, see if it has an av OUT port (red, white, yellow jacks and it will say OUT specifically on it) if it does then you DO NOT need a video splitter. Most modern tvs, however, only have av INs, so you WILL need a splitter.
   
   
2. A capture device. These will cost you anywhere from 70 to 100 dollars. HOWEVER, I am a poor bastard and I recently got one of these and while the reviews are a little all over the place I will tell you it works like a charm for me. Well worth the 12 bucks I spent.
   
   
3. If you do need a splitter, I use one of these and you'll want either one of these or a set of these (I personally use the latter but the cord is probably more convenient since its fewer pieces, although they are functionally identical).
   
   If you can't figure it out, all you do is plug the rca (red white yellow cables) from your console into that first adapter i posted. Then plug the the male end of the second cord I posted (or the three separate pieces of the last listing I posted) into the other side of said adapter.
   
   Then you will need two double male rca cords and plug the end of each into the female ends of the cord (or the separate adapters).
   
   From there you just plug one set of the cord into your tv and the other set into the easy cap and the easy cap into your streaming pc. Real easy.
   

I'm not sure of this exact board, but if the plastic seat on the fan lines up with the male plastic on your system fan plug you should be fine. Tons of boards use 4 pin fan connectors so you can plug 3 or 4 pin plugs into them. Sysfan 2 will work just as nicely as sysfan 1. You also have the option to get a small adapter and plug straight into your PSU. https://www.amazon.com/3pin-power-4pin-molex-adapter/dp/B000H25PBK?tag=s601000020-20

1. Take yourself a project box like this.
   
   
2. Get yourself a 12v 10A PSU (or higher Amperage, whatever...)
   
   
3. Get yourself some barrel connectors. (You'll also need some of these to hook up to your various devices. Alternatively, set up the project box to have male outputs instead of the female.)
   
   
4. Get some 20 awg wires or so and some solder.
   
   
5. ???
   
   
6. PROFIT!
   
   Note: I am most definitely not an EE. I can only confirm that this would work, but some of these other folks would have to attest to the safety of such a setup. I do use some of these female barrel connectors in projects I've done, however. I've bought uxcell products in the past, but never anything like the PSU above. Get the PSU you trust and make sure it fits within the project box.

Yea you could just use the line out (or even the headphone out if you take care with gainstaging) and send that to your mixer. And send the guitar to the mixer. and then have the drummers headphones connected to the mixer instead of the interface.

I have done a similar setup once and used a simple behringer amp sim pedal to create the scratch guitar, worked fine. We had the guitar and the bass playing on headphones live with the drummer, but only drums in the room were recorded. If it is any type of authentic rock then I'd listen to steve albini and try to make the band play together live anyway, for a more natural result than overdubbing everything. But that's a completely artistic choice at that point. Theres no one right way to make a good record I guess.

​

As for the DI- solution, no idea, I don't have a DI 100, you would have to try and listen how it sounds and compare it to a real mic input. I'd maybe try to get a low-z to high-z adapter though, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Shure-A85F-Transformer-Female-4-Inch/dp/B0006NMUHW

that has no HDCP support though. I don't know if the Chromecast has HDCP or not though.

I had a similar issue of no HDMI support on my el cheapo projector, but mine allows for a component connection via the D-sub vga connection as well, so I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVNUAEI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 to concert from HDMI to component, then just a simple adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00213KFHW?keywords=component%20vga&qid=1457799452&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

My projector is only 720 though, and I can't say I really like the hdmi/component convertor... it works well enough, but has a tendency to "blip" and act like it's had it's signal reset. it usually happens quickly and you don't really miss anything, but it's just kind of annoying. I'd like to find a better solution still.

I'm renting and I just recently upgraded to banana plugs. They are great! Mediabridge and Amazon are great resources for this. This is what I use, great quality and price.

Mediabridge Banana Plugs - 12 pair (used in conjunction with surround speaker wire, below)

Mediabridge 12AWG 6FT Speaker Cable with Banana plugs (Front LCR)

Mediabridge 14AWG 100ft speaker wire (surrounds)

Mediabridge 6ft subwoofer RCA cable

Those are BNC connectors, and they're commonly used in security and professional applications. Something like this will allow you to plug in a composite source.

If you can get this for cheap for free, I'd say go for it. S-Video is a pretty good input.

For AC power, I use a [$24.41 Simran VM1898 Universal AC to DC Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NNFECS//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) set to 8.4V output and plugged into a DC coupler/dummy battery like [this one] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=361941920069&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg).

If you need to run the camera for long periods without access to AC power, you can plug the coupler into the 8.4V output of this [$135 50aH external power pack] (https://www.amazon.com/IIDEE-50000mAh-Aluminum-Portable-External/dp/B01N0D2WCL//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a 6' length of [$7.49 cable] (https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises-2-1mm-5-5mm-Adapter/dp/B01BKSZ7NA//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and run the camera all day. This power pack is equivalent to 40+ Panasonic DMW-BLC12 batteries.

If you'd like to spend a little less money, you can get this [10aH external power pack with 8.4V out for $12.99 (on sale)] (https://www.amazon.com/ECEEN-Waterproof-Battery-Charges-Smartphones/dp/B00NFK46CU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20). This power pack is equivalent to 8+ BLC12s.

Hope this is helpful and good luck!

You'll need a small RF adapter to use it on a modern TV: https://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

I'm sorry for your loss, but I hope you can enjoy the 2600 and have some happy memories!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but are your fans 4-pin (PWM)? Before you make a decision on getting a new mobo, look at this:

https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16812162059

Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XKKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474271788&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=pwm+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=31CHO8viz1L&ref=plSrch

~It's a fan splitter cable. I'm trying to find one that would take power from the psu instead of the mobo; still looking. It'd be better to have the power coming from your psu (you would be able to control the fans because it would also connect to the mobo. Aah, found it just as I was typing this & would recommend this if you don't want to deal with buying a new mobo & moving the cpu:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DYQRFY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474272092&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pwm+splitter+that+plugs+into+psu


However, you could use the 2 cables mentioned before for your case fans & the other slot on your mobo for the cpu cooler. Hope I helped a little. What do you think?

EDIT: Try what /u/hashbinbash said down below first. They seem to be talking from experience which is much better than my guesswork and it doesn't require you to buy anything.

This is a bit of guess work but here's what I think you need to do.

Short answer: Find a way to connect the atari to the top antenna connector. I can't identify it but can you plug the female part of an RCA cable to it? If yes, then it's simple a male RCA, a female-female RCA coupler would bridge the gap. SInce RCA is mostly associated with composite cables, you'll often find them in this format at your local "1-dollar shop" next to cheap earbuds and usb cables, I'm 90% sure theres nothing in the rubber between each coupler and you can just cut it to make it fit.

If a Female RCA cable doesn't fit... I don't don't what it is. Tell me and I can try to help you solve the mystery but without dimension or reference it's pretty hard to start looking.

Long answer: The two plugs on the left have the "antenna" symbol, so your atari is sending the right kind of signal for those connectors. These plugs are made to receive analog antenna signals, disregard anyone talking about composite and component signal, that the common fix but not the one your TV needs.

Now, I'm not sure exactly what the 75 ohm means, but normally those tell you the impedence the device must have. I'm really rusty on this and I,m not sure what impredence is anymore, but basically if your device doesn't have the right impedence, it doesn't work. The 75 om connector is probably for a less common type of signal which the atari doesn't produce. The atari has a "normal" antenna signal which should be compatible with the top plug.

Just so you know, the RL2455HM can natively handle YPbPr via a breakout cable. Use something like this StarTek breakout adapter and you're all set.

I've also done a hardware mod for native HDMI from the GameCube with success: https://twitter.com/jbvh_/status/641633023750897664

In the end, I prefer the Wii + Component Cables + StarTek adapter. Just significantly easier. The other setups are cool. I enjoy my modded GameCube, but from a practicality standpoint, the Wii is easier to use and software mod.

EDIT: For audio, I usually route it separately, but you can just as easily get an Y-female RCA-> 3.5mm male and route it to the BenQ.

Should be any 2.5" SSD like this 250GB Samsung. You might also want a spacer so that it seats properly since the SSD is likely a bit thinner than your HDD.

Data transfer is the challenge, assuming your SSD is smaller than your HDD. If you can start fresh then that's a good way to go, otherwise you'll need to use some software to transfer the system. EaseUS has a nice suite of programs both free and paid.

i got my wire and plugs from amazon and they work great.

wire
https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-100ft-Speaker-Touch/dp/B01CSZAYF0

plugs
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9BJU

got all of my subwoofer cables from Amazon as well. cheap and easy. Cable Matters and Amazon basics brand sub cables.

other than that, R/L/C should be a simple straight forward process. have all of your sources going into your receiver and HDMI out from your receiver to your TV.

Here you go! A spacer, you should have a mounting bracket and an SSD SATA connector adapter.

OHHH WAIT, I think I got it. I thought you needed a spacer because your 2.5 in drive was 7mm instead of 9mm. BUT now I see, you want to add a second nvme m.2 SSD! Here's a vid.

It's easy to do, like ram.

I need sleep haha

The advantage of using Ubiquiti stuff is the amount of info available: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ubiquiti+nanostation+ptp

PtP means Point-to-point, which is the kind of link you want to do. You will need some outdoor ethernet cable and a crimp tool + connectors. A simple cable tester would be useful too to make sure the cable is OK.

Also, Ubiquiti uses passive PoE. Plug your injector correctly or it will fry your computer's network card!

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions!

Have you considered getting an external battery? I have one since I travel a lot for work and it's great, much easier to deal with 1 of these than multiple phone batteries. Plug it in at the beginning of your work day and it should be charged by the end. It'll charge an iPhone like 4-5 times over. This is the exact one I have, it's great.

http://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-9000mAh-External-Technology-Smartphones/dp/B00DMWV3EU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1397071782&sr=8-9&keywords=anker

ok, so it has the RF out of the stari, correct? you have 2 options, you can find an old school TV/Computer switch http://www.bestronusa.com/images_products/TV-311.jpg

OR, you can do what i did. I don't use Coaxial in for anything on my gaming TV, aside from my NES toploader. I got a RF to coaxial adapter, and get a really clean looking signal out of my Atari 2600. http://vintagegamingandmore.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/IMG_3748-1024x766.jpg

this seems like a good bet, though i'm sure you can find one pretty cheap at a radio shack if you still have one locally.

https://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

I have a Mayflash F500 that I use between my PS4/PC/Raspberry Pi/Switch and it works perfectly.

HOWEVER, there are a few things to consider.

1. It is a cheaper stick. Everything is swappable, which is good. But it only took a day before the stock buttons start squeaking. I've already swapped the buttons with Sanwas and have a Sanwa stick on the way as well.
   
   
   
2. To use it on your PS4, you'll either need to keep a PS4 controller plugged in to the front USB port of the F500 or buy Mayflash's ~$20 PS4 dongle. I have the dongle and it works as advertised.
   
   
3. By the time I bought Sanwa buttons/stick and the dongle, I'm pushing $150 in total spent on the F500. This is the cost of a brand new Hori RAP/etc. However, I did not want to buy one Hori stick for my PS4/PC/Raspberry Pi (does the Hori work on a Pi?) and then a second Hori stick for my Switch. I figure if my F500 PCB dies, I can buy a second F500 and still come out cheaper than having bought the two Hori sticks. However, if I wind up having to buy a third F500 for the PCB...
   
   
4. If you get an F500, and you want to use better sticks (Sanwa, etc), you'll need to buy a 5 pin harness as the stock stick does not use one. Amazon link to the 5 pin harness.
   
   All that said, I'm very happy with my purchase.
   
   The stick itself has usable stick/buttons but it doesn't take long to see the need to upgrade, in my opinion. And the upgrade process is simple. To me, it made sense to go the Mayflash route as I only need the one $150 purchase to use across all my gaming platforms. I just hope this thing doesn't start burning through PCB's as I do not want to have to buy and store two different sticks.

I just bought this one and it comes today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YOVKWQS?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image (Rankie)

And I've been using this one with intermittent success:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNF0KF0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title (Cable Matters)

Definitely hoping to resolve all the hiccups and artifacts though... I've had a feeling it was the adapter giving me some issues I've noticed, but yours is the first dedicated post I've seen address it.

NVME vs SATA is only substantially faster in large file transfers. For use cases like booting OS and launching apps it's marginally faster than SATA, and that's on PCIe 3. Unless you're dealing with large file transfers, I doubt PCIe 4 SSD is a meaningful upgrade.

5700XT on PCIe 3 is 2% slower than on PCIe 4.

All this to say that PCIe 4 today is a gimmick that won't come to fruition for a few years. You may be better off with B450 board, unless you need other X570 features like better VRMs for overclocking or built-in WiFi.

Front USB-C header is supported by very few motherboards. You can get an adapter from internal USB 3.0 header to front USB-C header. It can be used if motherboard has 2 internal 20-pin USB 3.0 headers (like X570-P you picked)

You can get Speakon to Banana Plug Cables -

https://www.amazon.com/MCSPROAUDIO-Gauge-Speaker-Cables-CABLE/dp/B01FSVOP5Q/](https://www.amazon.com/MCSPROAUDIO-Gauge-Speaker-Cables-CABLE/dp/B01FSVOP5Q/

You can also find the internal wiring of a Speakon Connector on Google Images and make your own cables -

https://www.edis-audio-visual.com/Wiki/images/c/c5/Tg-output-typical1.gif

Most Speakon connectors have Four Contacts, so they can accept two wire pairs, but you only need to use the default two connections for a single wire pair.

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Speaker-compatible-Neutrik/dp/B00LW8VLRU/

Here are some easy to install Sewell Banana Plugs that don't require any tools to install -

https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-SW-29863-12-Deadbolt-12-Pair/dp/B007QUYQSY/

Mediabridge are also good Banana Plugs -

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9BJU/

Depending on the distance, any 14ga or 12ga Copper speaker cable will be fine -

https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Speaker-Wire-Audiophiles-Systems/dp/B07BBRQ5YT/

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Access-Gauge-Conductor-Speaker/dp/B001WHQ9C8/

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-113716-Conductor-CMP-Rated-Speaker/dp/B017SDE22S/

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-14AWG-2-Conductor-Speaker-White/dp/B00N18VBSI/

Thanks for chiming! I too have a scar, the one with the 1070 in. I bought this: Rankie Mini DisplayPort (Mini DP) to DisplayPort (DP) Adapter, 4K Resolution Ready, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00YOVKWQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JXUxDb7NG002F and saw done people said it was fine, whilst others had issues at higher refresh rates. I'd quite like to use the USBC port if it meant it was more stable.

> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-Lithium-Ion-High-Capacity-Lithium-Battery-Pack-4-0Ah-2-Pack-P122/204321540

Ah, I see! I was hoping to use something a little bit more "smoother" for my guys to be able to hook up on the go and charge fairly easy.

What do you think on a setup like this?
Battery Pack

Then using this cord here to run from the battery to the PoE injector?

Would a 20V/3amp setup be to much power to run to the Nanostation from the PoE Injector?

Forgive my rookiness on all of this. Still fairly new subject for me.

The 2-port version lets you share the love. I can tell you from experience, this is a sure-fire way to make friends. ;)

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DMWV3EU/

I found this thread via google, then decided to go against your recommendation and get a splitter, and I want to say that you're totally right, a splitter doesn't seem to work. I bought this and with my PS3 going into one of the two male jacks and the other plugged into the Echo Dot, the Echo can play sound but the PS3 is silent. If I unplug the jack from the Echo then the PS3 sound starts playing immediately, so it's obviously not a physical problem with the cable.

So I'm strongly backing up your recommendation, a passive splitter will not work with the Echo Dot. Hopefully anyone else who finds this thread via Google can learn from my mistake.

You can get something like this - http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Splitter-Connector-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B00DYQRFY6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394158865&sr=8-2&keywords=pwm+splitter which will allow you to connect to a fan header on your motherboard and give you fan control via software. :)

Nice, thanks for this info. Really appreciate it. This all sounds great (no lag, dumb switch, no conversion). I'm familiar with US consumer connections, but the professional world is new to me.

 

Any recommendations on break out cables to convert component / composite / s-video to and from BNC? Would something like this work?

 

Currently, I have an FV310 (and picking up a second tomorrow, but that's another story). I believe it only has 2 component connections, so at some point, I know I'll want more than that. I'll likely have SNES and Genesis over component, NES over composite, N64 over S-video. If I ever manage to get a PVM/BVM, I'll convert what I can to RGB. Some preliminary research suggested RGB mods are a thing for NES and N64, but I don't think this helps me if I don't have a display that accepts RGB.

Yeah, TVs definitely dont have that anymore. Lol you can get a little adapter that converts it to an RF jack. They cost like 3 or 4 bucks. I've posted a link to one on Amazon. Or if you have a local retro game store you can go to they usually have them.

Atari 2600 RF TV Coaxial F Plug Female Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g4m4BbXQ2Q7ED

Great job on this one! it looks awesome!

I´m trying to mod my mayflash f500, I just bought a Sanwa joystick from amazon, but I´m not sure if I need this piece to attatch it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W948IDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Could you give me some tips on it? thank you!

It looks like you have one slot for the CPU fan and another for a system fan that's located right by the 24-PIN connector. The other fan can be connected directly to the PSU via molex. Something like this will do the trick.

Aside from form factor. I can't justify buying something like this for $65 $36 with only 1400mAh, when I've used the Anker® 2nd Gen Astro2 9600mAh for literally half the price $32, and it works awesome.

edit: I got my rewards mixed up. I still stand by my point.

You need the dazzle and a couple splitters (if you want to play on the tv). With that you can use obs (open broadcast software) to stream.

edit: I doesn't have to be a dazzle. Cosmo uses this one for n64:

http://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415515983&sr=1-1&keywords=i-o+data+gv-usb2

the splitters can be found at:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H4L6UO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with the splitters you will need a male to male av cables:

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Audio-Video-Composite-Cable/dp/B001VJ465O/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KV4BF0YP4E0PYEC1A0T

To get the capture card to work on obs, you create your scene and source a video capture device. You need to make sure all the drivers are installed for the capture card.

Other than the capture card linked, elgato makes good ones, dazzle, and there are probably others. DO NOT BUY CHEAP CAPTURE CARDS. They are shit, trust me.

I have a 9000mAh Anker; I got the generation with PowerIQ. Mine charges my phone really quickly, on par with the wall charger.

If it was me, I'd get the second-gen version. The only benefit I see to the first-gen is the built-in cable. Either way, Anker makes solid stuff and you should end up happy with it :)

It won't shorten your battery's lifespan any more or less than charging from the wall.

Yep, all you need is an RCA to BNC plug adapter, https://www.amazon.com/Sienoc-Male-Female-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00KX17NGU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521254104&sr=8-3&keywords=rca+bnc, plug the adapter into one of the composite inputs, plug the RCA composite onto the adapter and away you go.

Using S-video can also be a good option if you want to be able to use pretty common cheap cables but still get quite a bit better quality than composite.

Howdy partner.

In addition to the Balanced vs Unbalanced issue, the other issue is impedance. Pedals are designed for High Z inputs. You would need a device like this: Shure A85F Transformer; Low Z, Female XLR to High Z 1/4-Inch Phone Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NMUHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UJTtDbTBKTBW2

This would make sure you have a good damping factor which in turn will give you good signal.

Looks like it uses a 2.1mm barrel plug (but I can’t be sure from that product listing, there’s a chance it’s a less common 2.5mm barrel plug).

If so you can easily use any 12v battery pack with a 2.1mm connector. Here’s one that uses AA batteries.

Alternatively you can use a rechargeable one with a 2.1mm male to male cable.

Hi there,

I just bought the LSR305 + LSR310 combo.

I thought I would also get the Audioengine B1 to send music via Bluetooth and I did not realize the whole balanced/unbalanced story that that entails, so now I'm totally confused, and I don't have the right cables.

Should I:

1 Buy a RCA to XLR cable to connect the output of the DAC to the input of the LSR310s?

2 Use the RCA to RCA cable what comes with the DAC and use this directly plugged into the sub?

3 Forget about the Audioengine B1 and get something different, and if so, what? Having a bluetooth connection is tempting, but I'm open to having something else.

Appreciate any tips, thanks!

Heads up if you plan on putting a Sanwa joystick into the Mayflash, you have to order this cable!

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2-54mm-Pitch-Female-Adapter/dp/B00W948IDG/

Sanwa does not give you this cable with the joystick, and it's necessary to plug the stick into the Mayflash board. This is actually nice since instead of having to solder the four direction trigger wires or plug individual wires into the pcb like in other sticks, all you and I have to do is plug one end of this cable into the stick, and the other into the board. Done and done!

you are a saint. Thank you.

​

I was just going to go the cheaper route and pick up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GXM-133-RCA-XLR3M-Adaptor/dp/B000068O4D/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K5WY0ZCWHY4C3GN0CWJA. And then spend a few bucks on building a good balanced cable for the output.

LINKS FOR EVERYTHING

2 Way SLI - 780 Ti Superclocked edition

Intel i7 3820 3.6GHz

Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performace Liquid CPU Cooler H100i

2 packs of Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz (PC3 12800) Memory

Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 Motherboard

Samsung 840 EVo 250GB SSD

Beats Pro Over-Ear

Skullcandy Aviator Headphones

Male White Fiberglass Mannequin Head

Oculus Rift Development Kit 2

Deluxe Triple Monitor Stand Desk Clamp

Seagate 1TB Barracuda

Seagate 3TB Barracude

Corsaie Air Series SP120mm Quiet Edition

Rosewill 1000Watt Bronze Certified PSU

NZXT Phantom 630 Gunmetal Edition

Three Acer H236HLbid 23" LCD IPS monitors

Wallart USA Panorama New York

Blue Snowball Microphone

Flexible Gooseneck Microphone Holder

Microphone table clamp

Philips Fidelio DS3000 Speaker Dock

Razer Lycosa Mirror special Edition

Razer Abyssus Optical PC Gaming Mouse

Razer MAnticor Aluminum Gaming Mouse Mat

HP G62-219WM 15.6" Laptop (Pretty Old and outdated)

Xbox one controller

IKEA Tables (both 73" and 96" are used)
IKEA Table legs (8 used)

Sleeved cables used

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

heh.. boob ^

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036ORCJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pretty much what TeachingRetro said. Get a normal single av cable (the one I'm using was a stereo audio with red and white that I split apart to just be one cable) and plug one end into the console and the other end into an adapter like this. You can't use an auto switching rf adapter like what was on the NES.

Lots of cool monitors. The easiest way for you to find out if they work is to get a BNC to RCA adapter. You would just plug that adapter into the line A "video in" line and then plug in any RCA video cable(the yellow cable from the usual yellow, red, and white cables) from any game console, VCR, or DVD player.

Are you interested in keeping one for yourself for gaming?

Sorry it took so long to reply, I was at work.

The only thing that differs are the two Corsair 140mm fans that I'm replacing the Silverstone Ap123's with. (The Silverstone fans are fantastic, but I want a little more airflow). Also if you wanted to add a second graphics card eventually you would need a beefier power supply since the 620w model I have is only enough for one GTX 770 (something like 750-850w would be perfect).

Also not on the PC Part Picker list are the sleeved cable extensions I used which I will list below:

• 24 pin mobo-power
  
• 8 pin mobo-power
  
• 6 pin PCI-E for GPU
  

• 8 pin PCIE for GPU
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $329.00
  CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | Purchased For $99.99
  Motherboard | Asus GRYPHON Z87 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | Purchased For $169.00
  Memory | Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $114.99
  Storage | Sandisk Extreme 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | Purchased For $103.19
  Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $66.99
  Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card | Purchased For $419.99
  Case | Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $104.99
  Case Fan | Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.99 @ NCIX US
  Case Fan | Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.99 @ NCIX US
  Case Fan | Silverstone AP123 31.4 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $13.00
  Power Supply | SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | Purchased For $89.99
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8 Professional (OEM) (64-bit) | Purchased For $20.00
  | | Total
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1563.11
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-13 01:10 EDT-0400 |

Display port to hdmi cables usually only support 1080p.

You want an active converter. I have this one. It works quite well

The best way to troubleshoot to diagnosing each part. Like using the power adapter and tv switch with a known working atari. Also, one thing you can do to eliminate tv issues is buy one of these suckers:

http://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

I would almost say it's required for the 2600 now a days just because of how much the switch boxes suck. You can get two at radio shack for a few bucks.

If you don't have access to another atari, you can use a voltmeter to check the power source. Touch the two tips to the two rings on the power cord while the plug is in the wall, the meter should show around 9v. You might be able to look up ways to diagnose the board itself with a voltmeter. Taking it apart and looking for components that look bulged or broken might help too.

Worst case, there may be some services that you can ship your atari to for a tune up, but I've never used them before. Good luck!

Short term? Nothing, your fans would most likely just not spin.

Long term? Might damage the header.

I have done some research, the general rule is that a single pwm header supports 1 amp, which are 12W, which is actually a lot. Fans like the ones from Noctua do not consume even 1W.
Considering that there are loads of 3 way splitter sold without an additional power connector i think its totally safe.

I think your best bet would really just to get a PWM splitter with an extra Sata or Molex connector to draw the power fom the PSU and not from the Mobo, this would eliminate all problems.

http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Splitter-Connector-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B00DYQRFY6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1407081487&sr=8-6&keywords=PWM+Splitter

What motherboard model do you have? Many of them will have several 3-pin and 4-pin connectors for case and CPU fans.

You can read about the use of 4-pin (PWM) fan connectors and related here https://www.ekwb.com/blog/what-is-pwm-and-how-does-it-work/ - they allow for variable fan control that a 3-pin will not.

If you don't have a 4-pin on the motherboard you can consider a 3-pin to 4-pin adapter like this one for a few bucks.

Battery backup on the rack for your servers.

Scratch the pre-maid cat cables and just learn crimp your own cabling.


Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p7Q2AbHFZP2YW

Network Cable Repair Maintenance Tool Kit Set 11 in 1 Portable Phone Cable Crimper 8P8C 4P4C 6P6C Connectors RJ45 RJ11 Cat5 Cat6 Cable Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756SN86D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o5Q2AbBW77GFT

I also recommend an anti-static mat if you are a builder:

StarTech.com 24x27.5-Inch Desktop Anti-Static Mat M3013 (Beige) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009XT3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_e9Q2AbGZVFVJ2

If this is a builder workbench I would also recommend a good surge strip:

Bestten 12 Outlet Heavy Duty Workshop Metal Power Strip Surge Protector, 15-Foot Long Extension Cord, ETL Certified, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MY384H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l-Q2AbTXDXJAX

Lastly, how is your lighting in the room?

True, that's a good point. You NEED display port 1.4 so it can handle it.
Choose one that handle 4K/60Hz and you should be ok.
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOVKWQS
Take a look on reddit, there is other topics about this

It should have come with a 4 pole 3.5mm to RCA then go to a Female to Female RCA then finally the HDMI to RCA. You might also need a full size to mini HDMI adapter. That's a lot of adapters, haha. You're probably better off buying a monitor with an HDMI in next time.

Looking at the manual, I see there's a USB type 3 header at the bottom right corner of the motherboard, but I don't see one for the 3.1 gen 2 header the case wants.
There are adapters you can get that should allow it to work, but you won't get the maximum possible speed out of it. Here's one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/

Edit: the cable from the front panel looks like this, right? https://linustechtips.com/main/uploads/monthly_2018_07/image.png.cbfb5d2faf80198ec52145639ef23a21.png

So for the most part you'll probably just want to get a set of RGB SCART to BNC breakout cables. These will hook up to the RGB inputs on your monitor and have a standard SCART plug on the other end.

Luckily for you, I believe the PAL N64 actually supports RGB output unlike the version that was released over here in the US. The Dreamcast and PS1 also have native RGB SCART output.

I believe the Retro Trio only outputs composite video or HDMI, so for this you'll want to buy a BNC to RCA adapter, and plug the yellow video cable into it on the Video A or Video B input on your monitor.

Older / Blurry photo but hope it helps give you an idea here.

https://i.imgur.com/2FoCCxo.png

Basically what these are, are speaker wall plates. The person who built the house hid all the wires inside of the wall to a central location where the AV Receiver goes.

You then get banana plugs that connect to your speaker wire and they just plug into the wall plate as shown in my photo above.

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-2-male-Y-splitter/dp/B00D683FR8

If I am to believe the comments, this won't work the best.

At this point, my best bet may be to just make the actual switching process more convenient.

Thanks for the suggestion

I'm positive. Take a look at this review of the 390.

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/09/21/xfx_r9_390_double_dissipation_8gb_video_card_review/10#.VqvkhZorJQI

The total system power draw is 419 watts, with the GPU overclocked. That system also has an OC'd i7-3770k. You will not be overclocking your CPU, which uses less power than the 3770k to begin with, and even if it did go up to 419 watts, you would have over 100 watts of overhead on the PSU. Also:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story2&reid=440

There is 45A on the 12V rail, adding up to 550 W of capacity on your main power rail.

Oh, and about your fan situation, you could use either just a molex to 3 pin, 3 way splitter, to power your fans from your PSU, or if you have 4 pin PWM fans, you can get something like:

http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Splitter-Connector-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B00DYQRFY6/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31FUIjPEfbL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1V15RQ2WE0B2EWP8J5JQ

It will power the fans with molex, but control the fan speeds with PWM. Not sure if your case comes with PWM fans. If it doesn't its not a big deal - the fans will just run at full speed the whole time.

Molex connects directly to the psu, they look like this: https://www.amazon.com/3pin-power-4pin-molex-adapter/dp/B000H25PBK

Note that connecting it this way will make the fans run at full speed. Personally what I would do is either A) Just use the three fans you have in your case (those will be quite fine and get the job done) or B) Get yourself some Y-cable and connect two fans to one header ( You honestly don't need any more case fans than the three you already have, maybe add another for intake if you'd like).

Two intake fans and one exhaust fan is just fine. What case are you suing?

I just picked up these: MT-VIKI 8 Ports 8-In 1-Out AV RCA Splitter Selector Switch Adapter MT-831AV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jNy4xbXK6ZT6T

C&E Premium 3 RCA Audio Video Composite Cable 6 Feet Black, VF-34-RCA-RCA-CBLE-06-4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VJ465O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kOy4xbHZ2QAYZ

NES AV Cable "Simulated Stereo" Audio Video TV Cord for Original Nintendo System replaces RF Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006457FUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xPy4xbP6JF30T

Sega Genesis 1 Standard AV Cable (Bulk Packaging) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FY0CM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DPy4xbXCD658S

The Dreamcast, GameCube, etc. already came with the AV cords. These will have to do for now, at least they beat RF units even if only by a little. I can't afford mods to make these consoles HDMI compatible. Like you said the Gamecube HDMI cord goes for like $300 on eBay. For a 7yr old I think he'll be fine with these for now until proper funds come in to upgrade so many consoles. I doubt many kids his age would notice the difference unless it was on some huge TV.

Edit: The Element TV I got my son, listed in the OP was an open box and I had to return it base was broke. However all the consoles worked on it. I bought a Westinghouse 40"1080p TV to replace it, it was pretty cheap: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/westinghouse-40-class-40-diag--led-1080p-hdtv-black/5452800.p?skuId=5452800

I just hope all the consoles will work with this TV as well. I noticed some consoles will work on some TVs but not others? Example, his Dreamcast will work on my LG Plasma in my living room but not my LG LED in my bedroom.

Sure, Regular Wii component cables into one of these types of things (I have the 2 eBay ones, the Amazon link looks way better quality)

eBay 1

eBay 2

Amazon

Okay so heres my new plans for the design:

250FT Stranded UTP Cat6 - $45

Cat6 Connectors for UTP Stranded - $11

12 Port Vertical Mini Patch Panel for Cat6 - $20

8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch - $29

10 Pack Wall Plate 2-Port Keystone Jack - $10

10 Pack Keystone Jack Cat6 - $14

Total: $129, but previously $131 (100ft cat6 + connectors + wall jacks) and this does much more. Would that be good?

Bulk wire will certainly work fine. I like these though....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CYGMCGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or you can make you own with....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFC9BJU/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I11337DI9LWRDB&colid=2J1UH21WVBLBX

and

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UNGJF6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IP7LNMDFIYPZK&colid=2J1UH21WVBLBX

I think you can connect fans directly to the PSU with a molex to fan connector (something like this, assuming your fans use that 3-pin connector).

Apparently this will cause the fans to run at full speed all the time, so I'm not sure how much of a good idea this is, maybe someone more knowledgeable can tell us. But you might already have these connectors with your PSU.

I had bought this when it was available a couple of years ago.

Recharges my Nexus 5 battery at least 2.5 times, and looks super cool with the circular Iron-man-esque battery capacity display.

If you only use USB Type-C and won't be needing your USB 3.0 headers, you could pick out any motherboard with a 3.0 header and use an adapter like this to convert it to 3.1: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter-USB-3-0-3-1/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/
However, you'll be limited to the USB 3.0 speeds. There are some adapters that claim to combine two 5Gb/s headers into a single 10Gb/s 3.1 header, but the ones I've seen have less than stellar reviews, so if you really need that you may have to hunt around to see if there's a trustworthy model out there.

other than "not using the front panel USB-C" you can look for a different board? Or those other cases if you don't want dead ports.

You can also use an active header adapter, but I think by the time you're spending another $25, you'd just be better off with a higher-end board. https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/keywords=usb+c+header+adapter

The professional way to do this, is with a DI box. I think these are the best:

Radial Pro DI Passive Direct Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A8J3N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gNYlDbW95JSWJ


But in a budget, an impedance marching transformer will do the trick:

Shure A85F Transformer; Low Z, Female XLR to High Z 1/4-Inch Phone Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NMUHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GJYlDb4PE0T99

Edit: didn’t want to leave out the a solution.

I believe you may be looking for an adapter like this?

Your board has 2 internal USB 3.1 Gen 1 connectors that this can plug into. You won't be getting Gen 2 speeds of course, but the port will be functional at gen 1 speed.

And your board most definitely has a front panel audio header.

Is the cable just one end Displayport, one end HDMI? If it is, then it looks like it is passive.

And idk how Windows does it.

This is the adapter I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5DX296

Please note that I'm currently experiencing tearing on my 25UM58 and I cannot conclude if it is due to this adapter or if it is due to Linux. Tearing is noticeable when watching videos or playing games.

ok, so will i need an adapter(like this one: https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41 ) to use the usb 3.2 gen 2 type-c port on my nzxt h210i?(this case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T7L74D5/ref=twister_B07WWZKL8W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 )

Thanks!

hdmi won't matter, this is using the normal output. you won't be able to tell the difference if there even is any.

this is the cable you will need http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-Premium-Digital-Microsoft-equipment/dp/B0030CGMAC/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1345857433&sr=8-1&keywords=xbox+vga+cable

then for the audio you will need an rca to micro plug adapter
something like this http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1345857518&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm with these to bridge the cable http://www.amazon.com/Female-to-3-RCA-Coupler/dp/B002B8WVVU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1345857578&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+female+to+female



or you could use something like this http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Go-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1345857518&sr=1-5&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

i would then run the 3.5mm cable through the input on my computers soundcard and have windows listen to that and output through my default output. that way I could control the sound with my keyboard. since I had 2 monitors, and the one I was using had a dvi and vga input, I would just switch the input in the monitor settings (on the actual monitor, not within windows) and it would display the game on my main monitor and I could still use my second monitor to look things up on my computer. now since I have DaS for PC, I don't need to do that anymore, just running it in windowed mode :D

Something like this one maybe.

Or this one although it takes a USB port.

Not sure if they work, but I don't see why it wouldn't.

Either way I'm glad Asus provided 2 HDMI ports as current gen VR headsets use HDMI for video input — even if they did include the USB Type C connector for future VR headsets.

A lot of people will tell you to get a Dazzle DVC 100. It does the job for standard definition. They can be had for $30.

Whichever you get, you'll need 3 RCA splitters and 2 male-to-male RCA cables if you want to output to both a TV and to your PC.

That's fine for standard definition (anything Wii or lower), but if you want to capture HD and have it look good, you're looking at spending at least $100.

Extremely easy, you just need a crimp tool and a couple extra heads.

Then just follow a wiring diagram.

(Some are wired differently, if you have it plugging into a switch or a router, just make sure the order matches the order on the other end of the cable)

The dual 8 pins are not strictly nessecary, you can actually use only one 8 pin, or only one 4 pin. Since it wasn't difficult to route the extra 8 pin cable I figured I would give the CPU as much juice as possible. I haven't overclocked too much, only 4.3 GHz so it shouldn't really need it.

As for the flat cables, I love them for how easy they are to hide coming right out of the PSU, but I agree they are a big pain to route elsewhere. I am thinking about getting a couple of these in black and maybe the matching motherboard connector to clean up the look a little bit.

I think that's a selector to switch between different inputs which won't do the job (it'd only go out one). Splitters like these or these will do the job! Make sure you have two RCA cables to connect from the splitter to the projector and CRT!

Ahh, the connectors I bought say stranded, so that may be it...


It has inexplicably started working 100% on its own for now at least, but if i replace the connectors with some meant for solid cable you think it will probably resolve the issue?

Would this one work?

BENFEI Active DisplayPort to HDMI 4K Adapter, DP to HDMI Ultra HD Converter Male to Female Gold-Plated Cord Supporting Eyefinity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5DX296/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Dp0xCb991GVQ8

Well, there are adaptor cards for both of you.

You could buy an expansion card like this with the connector and your wife may adapt it to the internal 3.0 header (e.g., won't be as fast but it at least it would be usable) or use an expansion card with the internal header :)

A small piece of plastic like this:

https://www.amazon.com/EDGE-7mm-9-5mm-Spacer-Adapter/dp/B014LQM6I2

would help.

If it were my T420, I wouldn't want to risk it.

Thanks. Something like this, right? https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-2-male-Y-splitter/dp/B00D683FR8

Would something like this or this be any good?

Thank you for the links!

I actually bought the male version of that today from Radioshack. I hooked it up using a Female to Female adaptor like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Aleratec-Female-3-RCA-Coupler/dp/B002B8WVVU

But all I got was static when I tried to use line in. Any ideas?

I highly recommend getting a Displayport to MiniDisplayport adaptor. It literally just changes the form-factor, it doesn't convert anything to another format.

Something like this

Edit: Check your laptop box (or any GPU box you might still have) for one of these. The one I'm using came with another video card.

All the cable splitter that you linked to does is split the source of the cable wire so you could plug it into two devices such as hooking up a cable box and a cable modem at the same time. however that will NOT allow you to hook up two devices to one port on your tv. If I were you I would do the following.

1. You have the cable box properly connected to the cable source coming from outside. So now you need to connect the cable box to the tv. The easiest way if you don't have an HDMI cable or the cable box doesn't work with HDMI would be to take one of the RYW cables like this and that should take the audio and video feed from the cable box and display it on the AV input on your tv.
   
   
2. Now to hook up your antenna just simply screw it in as normal and this will show up under the regular cable or antenna input on the tv. so now instead of screwing and unscrewing wires you just change the input selection on the tv.
   
   I have a Vizio and it would display something like this:
   
   AV input = Cable box;
   TV input = Antenna

So, I'm guessing the GPU can 'power' the KVM, but the KVM can't 'power' the monitor ??
Would something like this work - if I plugged the DP end in to the KVM and then an HDMI cable to the monitor ?
Adapter

I think things are getting overly complicated here. The TT already has a built in phono pre so he wouldn't need to buy that stage so even coming out the rca's it would be ready to go into an aux on a receiver or in to powered speaker. So all he needs are the rca to xlr adapters (Hosa GXM-133 RCA to XLR3M Adaptor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YHBFybZ9QHVWQ) for his speakers. The speakers themselves have volume control on them so I don't think this rca to xlr converter box is necessary. So, as long as his TT is switched to line on the back, the flow ought to look like this:

TURNTABLE OUTPUT --> RCA TO XLR ADAPTERS--> MONITORS

A very cheap and simple fix for bypassing the unnecessary USB stage.

Source: I'm a sound engineer and a collector of vinyl for over 25 years.

edit another comment posted something similar, the one I linked seems to be well reviewed, may work better idk


If your motherboard has a USB3.0 or 3.1 gen 1 internal header you can convert it to USB 3.1 gen two (USB c) with this

https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C5QGGWEPBJH07AZYMC6M

Won't get gen2 speeds on gen 1 tho (5gbs vs 10gbs)

> I have been looking for a solution like this for a long time

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-2-male-Y-splitter/dp/B00D683FR8

There you go

Interesting items here -

https://www.amazon.com/ModTek-4-Pin-Molex-Connector-Connection/dp/B00MYA3A4C#Ask
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812198025
http://www.outletpc.com/jz1592-lightblue-molex-to-3x3-pin-cable-bb.html?gclid=CKL8hpH5rdICFQmBswodlhYCdQ
http://www.koolertek.com/computer-parts/pc/Adapters-Extensions-c169.htm
http://www.kingwin.com/cooling/fan-controllers/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B00STNUB04/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488121475&sr=1-3&keywords=SATA+Power+Adapter+Cable
https://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-Triple-Adapter/dp/B00HVBOSCW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488122582&sr=1-2&keywords=BitFenix+Alchemy+Multisleeved+20cm+4Pin+Molex+Male+to+3x+3Pin+Fan+Male+12V+Adapter+Cable
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Splitter-Connector-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B00DYQRFY6
http://www.evercool.com.tw/categories/global/cables/fancablesadapters/ec-df001/ec_df001.php
https://www.amazon.com/Evercool-EC-DF001-Braided-Splitter-Multiple/dp/B009D3KQ54/ref=sr_1_4?m=A18K25N425Y52T&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1488123956&sr=1-4
http://www.microcenter.com/product/221360/TX3_Fan_Power_Splitter_Cable
https://www.coolerguys.com/products/evercool-fan-cable-5-pwm-fans-cb-ec-df001
http://www.evercool.com.tw/categories/global/cables/fan_cables_adapters.php
https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Black-Sleeved-Splitter-Computer/dp/B01GZPEQW6/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W321Y22MPQZY3QRKQX5C#Ask
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8770/ele-419/FrozenCPU_Deluxe_Multi_Power_Port_-_12V_7V_5V_OF12.html?tl=g12c34s275#blank
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c121/s424/list/p1/b33/Swiftech-Fan_Accessories-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIACJF5497353&cm_re=4_pin_to_3_pin_fan_adapter-_-9SIACJF5497353-_-Product
http://www.deepcool.com/product/dcoolingaccessory/accessory/index.shtml
https://www.newegg.com/Internal-Power-Cables/SubCategory/ID-2820

May not be this exact one since I don't know the size of their/your connector, but something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises-2-1mm-5-5mm-Adapter/dp/B01BKSZ7NA/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=5.5x2.1+mm+male&qid=1568210023&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Power supply for about $12
http://www.buy.com/pr/product.aspx?sku=212635986&sellerid=24218560

R/F adapter $4

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Coax-Cable-Video-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

plug that into the back of the system, them use a regular coax cable to the tv. Radio Shack also carries it, 278-290 is the part number. You will have to open the case to access the R/F port.

It's a simple repair job. He'res a video that explains how easy it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_CoVw-P0xc

THIS if youre only looking for the type of adapter you had before.. then just grab 2 male to male 3.5 mm cables to connect to your computers output..

edit: or THIS to save you having to get extra cables

Yes you can split/combine them as longs as only one is playing at a time.

You could also simply get a: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GXM-133-RCA-XLR3M-Adaptor/dp/B000068O4D

To convert the AES input to coaxial.

You could try connecting both amps to a female to 2 male stereo y cable, then connecting that to a male to 2 female stereo y cable, then connecting headphones into the 2 available female jacks.

If your amp only has a 1/4" output jack then you can get 2 3.5mm to 1.4" adapters as well.

I use a 2 male to 1 female y splitter so I can connect to my amp and my computer at the same time so I can play along to songs off my computer and it works flawlessly.

It looks like the original hard drive is 9.5mm in height and there are "spacer adapters" that you can purchase for 7mm drives so any drive 9.5mm or less in height.

I googled "ASUS 302 upgrades" because I knew that Crucial would have an upgrade listed for the laptop. The upgrades included a 7.5mm high SSD and a 9.5mm spacer adapter.

The best way to connect it up so that you have Internet is to get a switch with enough ports to handle all of the jacks, and then wire patch cables coming off of each one of the cables going into that block. You will need a punch down tool ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a2sgzbNSBBEK7) a rj45 crimper (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5PT7G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R3sgzb0GCQ5SN) some rj45 connectors ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m5sgzb3KQHCC8) and some CAT5 cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034XBFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6sgzb9E3ZTQ4). You strip the wires on both sides. One side gets punched down onto the block (make sure that the colors match) and the other side is terminated with a rj45 connector (make sure that the cable is long enough to reach your switch!). Once they are all terminated, you plug them into the switch, and have your switch hooked up to your Internet modem, and then all of the jacks will have Internet access.

I'm using an adaptor on my Legion Y540 (Rtx 2060).

Rankie Mini DisplayPort (Mini DP) to DisplayPort (DP) Adapter, 4K Resolution Ready, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00YOVKWQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MVqiDbEJ0CC55

That's what I've got and works fine.

If it's just the adapter, there are hundreds of them available on retailers like Amazon. A mini-DP to DP adapter isn't unique to the Rift S.

I'm quite fond of Anker products and so I'd recommend the Anker 2nd Gen Astro2. It's lasted me for over 6 months now, which is longer than I can say for other products.

This has had such a huge impact. I have a crappy phone now (soon to change) where the battery dies maybe 3/4 of the way through the day. I picked up this pocket-sized 3200mAh battery for pretty cheap. It charges my phone to full from empty at least once, after accounting for charging limits and power loss and such, and is pocket sized. I got a bigger version for my work bag, in case I'm at a client site for a couple of days and don't have access to an outlet. It's a pretty good conversation starter too, come to think of it.

It's made me a lot less afraid to live the untethered life.

So I'm a super cheap college student and am trying to find a way to start streaming Resident Evil 4 on the GC. I went ahead and bought this and this in hopes that I would be able to capture the video without having to shell out the money for a high quality capture card. Is there any software i could use to capture the video, or is this just wishful thinking?

Was thinking into something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Port-Internal-Controller-HB-INTR/dp/B0794V75LB

Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_oRFYDbA7545N5

Not sure if it would work or if it's even worth it...

Get a cable that is 3.5mm stereo jack on one end and 2 RCA on the other. Something like this then get 2 adapters that are either RCA to 1/4" or RCA to XLR, doesn't matter which.

Use the green jack on the PC, which is the main L/R output.

Hopefully Neutral, Side, and Down-B don't need to be overlap if fundamentally Smash is no different than doing something like this StarTek breakout adapter](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00213KFHW/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B009GUQYBO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TDXGK7QP4AFY487JY8Y) and you're all set.

Hi, my Atari 2600 is not modded in any way and I have done this and I use a VCR and an RF Adapter

Open up the Atari and remove the cable, now Take a composite yellow wire and plug in one end....

and take the other end of the cable and plug it into the back of the RF adapter..now screw the RF adapter into the back of the vcr

Turn on the vcr and set it to channel 3

Now take a set of composite cables and run them from the vcr out to the AV to HDMI adapter

congrats atari in hd

I think something like this would do the trick - YPBPR output of the PS2 goes in one end, the other end plugs into the monitor. You'll want someone else to confirm that, though, because I'm not 100% sure about this line:

>Note: This cable requires a video converter or output device that can process a YPbPr signal through an HD15 (VGA) port.

EDIT: Based on some forum searches, it looks like that won't work :(

EDIT2: This might work, but it's a bit expensive.

Thanks. I just went down the rabbit hold of USB naming conventions. I might stick with the Tomahawk Max and use this adapter.

Would something like this be enough?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NMUHW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Did the case come with any adapters? Usually fans are female so they can plug right into the male power sources on the board, or there will be molex adapters for them. Otherwise you would need something like this

The RCA connection on the back of the Atari is a combination audio/video jack and it needs an RF converter. If you want to use a coax connection, you'll need something like this to convert it to coax:

https://smile.amazon.com/Coaxial-Female-Adapter-not-machine-specific/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=coax+atari&qid=1555814729&s=gateway&sr=8-1

If your TV’s coax connector is broken, you can use an old VCR to convert coax to separate RCA video and audio (yellow/red/white connectors on the back of the TV if you have them).

If you’re decent at soldering, you can modify your Atari to use standard yellow and white RCA connectors for audio and video instead of the combo RF signal that comes from the built-in port. You’l need to know which Atari 2600 model you have before you order a kit and make the modification.

https://www.instructables.com/id/ATARI-2600-Video-Composite-mod/

Otherwise, you might want to see if you can get the coax repaired on your TV and just use something like what’s linked above.

The cable on the left is two 6 pins to a single 8 pin. You plug the 8 pin into the GPU and two 6 pins from the power supply inside the cable.

I'd suggest using the 8 pin cable directly from the power supply though to power the GPU, not using that adapter.

Or is the cable too short and you need a longer one? In this case something like this maybe: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-PCIB/dp/B00B46XJ7K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519201404&sr=8-3&keywords=8+pin+pcie+extension

Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-2-male-Y-splitter/dp/B00D683FR8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1457853357&sr=8-5&keywords=audio+splitter+jack

Okay, now I'm not sure if I actually bought mini-DP to DP, because it looks like Apple only sells Belkin mini-DP to HDMI.

I looked at my monitor, and I'm apparently using the first one I bought--the cheap one. I now remember that it started working after I moved (roommate brought a different router). I'm not sure what happened to the Belkin one. I may have returned it.

I think this is the cheap one I bought and am now currently using. Again, it works perfectly. It just may cause issues with connecting to WiFi (although I'm having no issues now).

Also, I'm using a 2014 MBPr 15", but there shouldn't be many differences.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_u4P-Ab7PCV57Z

Get one of these. It's a billion times easier than the game box switch.

You could get one of these and it should work.

EDIT: Alternatively, this should work and only need the one item.. And the total cost would be cheaper, and easier to return if it doesn't work.

Looks like this is what you want: https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/

Hi, I currently have a pair of Overnight Sensations that are connected to a Lepy 2024A+ amp connected to a fiio e10k connected to my computer. I would like to add a subwoofer to my setup, but I have a question about connecting it. The subwoofer only has RCA input, while the lepy amp only has speaker output. Should I use a Y splitter to split the input from the fiio e10k to the amp and the subwoofer? Or should I remove the amp and connect the speakers to the sub using the speaker out of the subwoofer?



Here are the cables I'm looking at:


https://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021804&p_id=665&seq=1&format=2


https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-2-male-Y-splitter/dp/B00D683FR8/ref=pd_sim_23_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D683FR8&pd_rd_r=Y4RGW8JW7DMCHVRK4ZNZ&pd_rd_w=NKLQu&pd_rd_wg=7qOpE&psc=1&refRID=Y4RGW8JW7DMCHVRK4ZNZ


And this is the sub:

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA

So that model does support Component input through the VGA port, so you'll need an adapter if you wanna use it, and then the audio is plugged into the Side AV port. The TV would of come with a cable which plugs in there and provides three connectors, Yellow, Red and White.

Example of the VGA adapter

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Cable-Adapter-Component-HD15CPNTMF/dp/B00213KFHW

I have a pair of silverstone 6+2 pin black sleeved extensions (http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-PCIB/dp/B00B46XJ7K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464139833&sr=8-2&keywords=Silverstone+sleeved+extension+black); If you're interested, I can provide some time stamps.

I had the same issue with the h210. You have to buy one of these adapters. LINKUP USB 3.0 (3.1 Gen 2) Internal IDC 20 Pin Motherboard Header to A-Key 20 Pin Female Header Active Converter for Type C Panel Mount Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2dg3DbJ86EQ81

To make it go from usb 3.0 to USB 3.0 gen 2.

I stole them from OsamaBeenModdin's build, along with most of the rest of it.

[–]OsamaBeenModdin[S] 1 point 7 months ago

I bought the extensions from Amazon, they are made by Silverstone.
Links to cables I bought:

• [24 pin mobo-power 300mm]
  (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ3E/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• 8 pin mobo-power 300mm)
  
• 6 pin PCI-E for GPU 250mm
  
• 8 pin PCI-E for GPU250mm
  
  Edited for formatting...

If youre using that you might as well get this for battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MF70BPU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496248458&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+talentcell&dpPl=1&dpID=41HeiyevgvL&ref=plSrch you will just need this for it to reach the totem,https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BKSZ7NA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1496248567&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=5.5mm+x+2.1mm&dpPl=1&dpID=41iLYJEmDiL&ref=plSrch, if your totem is longer than 6 feet youll just need and extension for the wire

Do you NEED a switch box, or would the RF to coax adapter work? Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

You can get 8 pin PCIe power extensions that allow you to hide the original split cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-PCIB/dp/B00B46XJ7K

I would recommend using these Mediabridge banana plugs instead. They are so much easier to install

These will fit.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2-54mm-Pitch-Female-Adapter/dp/B00W948IDG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=jst+5+pin&qid=1573893202&sr=8-4

Thank you, this absolutely worked for me. MSI GT73VR, with this DisplayPort to mDP adapter.

Thunderbolt is physically and signal compatible with mini-displayport. So just use a mini-displayport to full size displayport adapter, like this one that at least one Steam community forum user said worked with their Valve Index.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOVKWQS

Mentioned in this thread:

https://steamcommunity.com/app/1059530/discussions/0/1640916564842431910/

https://www.amazon.com/EDGE-7mm-9-5mm-Spacer-Adapter/dp/B014LQM6I2

You mean something like that?

Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5DX296/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YB6hzbWC7VZKF

Something like this might work if you have the old USB 3.0 board header.

If the case has got the new A Key motherboard connector then you'll need to use something like this to connect it.

The motherboard for my brother's new build only has one connector for a case fan, what's the best option to get the second one powered? I was looking at something like this but I really have no idea if that would work - or if it's even the right idea in the first place. Looking for advice!

Dummy here. Just picked up a Sony PVM-1354Q and realized my GameCube component cables do not fit in the RGB/Component inputs on the back of the set.

Do I need something like these to convert component to BNC?
https://smile.amazon.com/Sienoc-BNC-Female-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00KX17NGU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541209906&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+female+to+bnc+male

Back photo for reference:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/BaQAAOSwK3ZbdeDQ/s-l1600.jpg

If you had ATH-M50x, I would just suggest buying an additional cable, and connecting the one you require to your cans. Why don't you by two male to female 2.5mm cables and connect them to your PC and WiiU? Then you can use your M50s's by just plugging it into those.

I would suggest something like this: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-2-male-Y-splitter/dp/B00D683FR8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1413378219&sr=8-7&keywords=2.5mm+male+to+female+audio (but I don't know how good those are).

RJ45 tester

wall plate mounting bracket

keystone wall plate

keystone f/f jack

CAT6 ends

The setup from your diagram should work.

Edit: the wall plate has various options for the number of jacks.

The Wii isn't capable of utilizing the full potential of that monitor but it can do 480p. You could actually hook a Wii up to that monitor! First get the component cables for the Wii.
Then get this
Component to VGA Adapter.
Finally, you'll need a RCA to Mini Stereo adapter,
this will merge the 2 RCA stereo (White and Red cables) from the Wii Component cable to a mini stereo jack that will plug into the audio input on your monitor. The games will look much crisper and cleaner as supposed to an old 480i CRT TV.

https://www.amazon.com/Coaxial-Female-Adapter-not-machine-specific/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=asc_df_B0028MXOF6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312068849209&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14230188814681617814&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030206&hvtargid=pla-525295857810&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=67623312452&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312068849209&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14230188814681617814&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030206&hvtargid=pla-525295857810 RF to coax is generally the best way to do this. The picture won't be great but with the system as old as it is, it probably doesn't matter all that much.

Mediabridge Banana Plugs - Corrosion-Resistant 24K Gold-Plated Connectors - 12 Pair/24 Banana Plugs (Part# SPC-BP2-12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFC9BJU

I meant these. They hold any size cable well.

Only use drives on their supported drive list. That one is one of them. It is a 7.5mm SSD, and cinema cameras are built to use 9mm SSDs. I have used these spacers Edge 7mm to 9.5mm SSD Spacer Adapter for 2.5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014LQM6I2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XuNBDbBD985JC exactly once for one shoot and they worked well. Haven’t worked with a cinema camera since.

You can also get a USB adapter for standard vocal mics, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Icicle-XLR-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B001EW5YQS

There may be a mismatch between your standard vocal mics and your sound card, possibly an impedance difference. Are you plugging them into a mic input or into a guitar/instrument input? The latter are high impedance and most vocals mics are low impedance; you can get an inline matching transformer if that's the case.

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-A85F-Transformer-Female-4-Inch/dp/B0006NMUHW/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1525360831&sr=1-2&keywords=impedance+matching+transformer&dpID=31UaWFK-RUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I don't see why it wouldn't work if you have the adapters. However, you might lose some sound quality by going down to the 3.5mm jack. I found 2 different adapters on Amazon that go from RCA to XLR here which I personally think would be the better option here

i don't have the box that came with the pong console, so i wanted something that i can plug it into than that goes straight to the coaxial: http://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

Ok, so your motherboard has 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 internal ports, all you need is the adapter to convert from a standard type A USB 3.0 internal port to a type C internal port. That's the first part you linked from ModDIY.

This might be the cheapest one of those: https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/

The one on ModDIY says it does 10Gbps whereas this one only claims 5Gbps, idk if that matters to you.

This is it on Amazon. I got mine at Skycraft in Orlando.

It'll work in a pinch but it is not technically correct; what you're describing requires a balun, it's a matching transformer to connect your unbalanced end to a balanced connection.

You should still use a shielded cable, the 'green' goes to the shield to prevent interference.

Is your impedance matched correctly? What is the actual microphone you're using? You may need a circuit which also matches impedance. Here's an example.

Go with a battery pack instead of a solar charger (unless you are using your phone a lot, for GPS or something..) You can get 3 charges out of this for only $35. Cheaper solar panels don't last long and work very well this time of the year.

No prob. You can get an 8pin cable extension to clean up the look of it. Lots of them out there but this is the basic idea: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJ7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EtpTCbKBTNTKP

Get a TRS to XLR and then this: https://www.amazon.com/Shure-A85F-Transformer-Female-4-Inch/dp/B0006NMUHW

I ordered this as well...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H25PBK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-6-Inch-Component-Breakout-Adapter/dp/B00213KFHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458058589&sr=8-1&keywords=component+to+vga

Cable adapter - RCA breakout - HD15 (m) - component (f) - 6in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00213KFHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ouJWBbNX00MZR

As someone else mentioned, I think you can use one of these to plug component into your VGA port. StarTech.com 6-Inch HD15 to Component RCA Breakout Cable Adapter - M/F (HD15CPNTMF) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00213KFHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eYKezb55FXWM0