(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best car polishes & waxes

My experience, after owning a Jet Black painted car. Others have said black cars are like having another full time job, and I agree.

I've been a huge fan of P21S paste wax. It's easy to apply, and doesn't matter how long you leave on, it's easy to remove. Starts to fade after 3 washes. But the best I've found a few years ago. This is the same wax that Harley uses. Overall a fan. This one is quite fun to apply to a freshly clay-bared car, by hand. No mitt, towel, or applicator pad. You can wax until your hand sticks, then rub hands together to get it to go further. And you have more control. Highly recommend to try this once. Used to swear by P21s wax, until I tried others.

Chem Guys - Butter Wet wax is a liquid, has the BEST wet look, deep tones for black/dark cars, but does not last long. At. All. Attracts the most dust, and creates the most dust while buffing. Looks the best right away, but quickly digresses to failure. Sadness.

Chem Guys - Black Light Hybrid wax. I use this with my Griots orbital and it's sealant & wax. Then I'll use P21S over it the next morning for the ultimate shine/protection. Overall, very satisfied with this. But the only wax I've applied with my buffer thus far. And was easy to remove. Lasted a tad longer than the P21s Wax, assuming it was the sealant properties causing this.

Recently read about Collinite waxes and they have them for boats, auto, and planes. I used their paste wax on my car, and it worked better than my P21S wax. It's been 6 washes in, and the water still beads in the same pattern as when I put it on. After driving for a week, with a few rain days, you can barely tell it's been rained on. It doesn't attract much dust in the garage, nor pollen. you don't notice that lower body water spray after driving, and still feels great to wash with wash-mit.

Griots - Was really disappointed in their Best of Show wax. Went on as a liquid. But did NOT come off easily. Yes I used the least amount possible, but I didn't like this one bit. Only used it once. Bottle is just sitting on the shelf. Didn't hold up very well either. The only way to remove it was with a detailing spray or spray wax. Sucked IMO.

May sound snooty of me, but I stay away from the over-the-counter waxes. I feel most of them have colors added to them, don't have the best protectant. I'd say not to buy the same wax twice. And only use clearer pastes rather than yellowish tinted waxes. Use the kinds that forgive if you get on plastics or that you get in between cracks. But:

NuFinish/Zymol Liquids - I use these after a quick microfiber wipe down, when it's still slightly wet. And then wax/dry it up at the same time. I'd rather use the liquids as they are easier for me to apply when slightly wet, rather than drying fully, than applying carnauba by hand afterwards.

I would like to try waxes by Swissvax, Zymol and more. But over $60 then you are starting to get into dangerous territory and eventually led to something like this. But I have a feeling, for that price, it better last a lifetime, better have 2 coats of clearcoat, and ad at least 50hp to your car. But makes you wonder if it's any different compared to the ones we use.

---

I always, use a spray wax when drying my car. I don't notice much of a difference in these, as long as you have ample of it.

Here's a good link on how to properly wash your car.

Haven't tried Zaino but have heard good things. Not a huge fan of the sealants, but starting to come around to them.

Tl;DR - all wax is great after using it for the first time. But the true test is how it holds up over time and how easy it is to apply/buff. The best looking results are the ones where you wax, let it cure overnight, and then that first wash afterwords is where it usually aesthetically "pops" the most.

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

Here's my opinion

Shampoo- good choice, make sure you're using a washing mitt and not any kitchen sponge, something like http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903374&sr=8-1&keywords=washing+mitt will be fine

Towel- while you can dry with any microfiber towel, it will be best to use one specifically made for drying so you don't have to wring out the towel after every wipe. Also, using a low quality microfiber has the possibility of scratching the paint. My recommendation would be http://www.theragcompany.com/Dry-Me-A-River-26-x-59-Premium-Microfiber-Waffle-Weave-Towel-42009-2659-OW.htm

Wax- I have no idea how much you want to spend, but if you're going to be applying it by hand you generally want to go with a carnuba wax as they are easier to apply and wipe off. My personal favorite is pinnacle souveran liquid wax. Probably out of the price range for a beginner, but it's super easy to apply/wipe off, and it produces amazing results and lasts a lot longer than other carnuba waxes. http://www.autogeek.net/pinliqsouvwa.html If you want something on the cheaper end and can be purchased in auto stores, go with Meguiar's gold class liquid wax. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7016-Carnauba-Premium-Liquid/dp/B0002UNOYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903940&sr=8-2&keywords=gold+class+wax

Applicators- If you're applying wax, go with a foam applicator pad like these lake country applicator pads(make sure they're the red color) with this palm grip

Headlights- If you have a power drill, I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3000-Heavy-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B004HCOE72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405904455&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+headlight kit as it attaches right to the drill and works very well.

>What are some ways of preventing theft of the scooter? Does it involve some specialty lock or perhaps being specific about where I park?

I have a [Gorilla Alarm] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3QM4SS/ref=twister_B00WGCGQWQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) on my scoot but sometimes it goes off unexpectedly and it drains the battery quick if you don't ride your scooter often.

I use to use a U-Lock to attach to my wheel but I've almost rode off a couple of times with it still attached so I hardly use it.

You can get one of [disc brake locks] (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469235803&sr=8-1&keywords=disc+brake+lock) that attaches to your front brake disc and comes with a reminder strap that you attach to the handlebars so you don't ride off with it still attached.

But I highly suggest getting full coverage insurance if you don't have it already in case the scooter does get stolen. Scooters are so light that 2 people could lift it onto the back of a truck and take off. The money you get back from full coverage insurance is surprisingly fair, at least with State Farm.

>I live in Houston. The sun is pretty intense and I love the paint job on my scooter. Is there a way to protect the paint with products or is a simple scooter cover the solution?

This is a great question because if you don't protect the body, it will start fading on you.

You can either use a [paste wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05500-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TVW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+wax) or [liquid wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05750-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TX0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-2&keywords=mother%27s+wax) to give you the best protection. Remember to follow the instructions that come with the wax.

You can use a [spray wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05724-California-Gold-Spray/dp/B001MXX5D8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236261&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+spray+wax) which is the easiest to apply and remove but it doesn't offer the same kind of protection that a paste or liquid wax gives.

Btw, I only used Mother's as an example but most of the brands that you find at your local auto parts store should be fine. Also, make sure to always use a Microfiber towel when doing anything on the scooter's body. Microfiber towels scratch the body the least vs. any other kind of towel.

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.

2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash

• 5 gallon bucket of water (w/grit guard)
  
  
• 5 gallon bucket premixed soap and grit guard
  
  
  • Lids for transportation
    
    
• Head down to the local self service wash. The kind with the foamy brush and pressure washer. (ONLY THERE FOR THE WATER)
  
  
• I follow 2 Bucket method above but my process is a bit different since I'm paying for the water.
  
  
  • Clean wheels/wheel wells, exhaust tips, rinse, wet car and remove built up debris/bugs with remaining time
    
    
  • Clean roof, windows, hood, front, rinse
    
    
  • Clean driver side (not bottom), back, passenger side (not bottom), go back and clean bottom of sides, rinse
    
    
    • If time remaining, switch to low pressure for final rinse
      
      
• Dry car and head home!
  
  My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.
  
  I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.
  
  The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.

Thanks!! I dont do anything special really. Just a good hand wash with a soft mit, then dry it, and then a good coat of wax. I did, however, just buy this and this was my first time using it and it is awesome. Really brought out the shine! buffer and since i needed a liquid wax, this is what I got and it worked awesome! wax

For the inside, just vacuumed and cleaned all the windows and your normal dash cleaning stuff.

All in all, I think just keeping up with cleaning it worked best in keeping it looking good. In the winter I made sure to spray it off every week or so to remove any salt.

Hope this helps!!

Its not a big problem if you don't seal your car, It helps protect the paintwork from stains and discoloration a good wax also fills in small swirls and scratches giving you a shiny and wet look.

Some car washes say they include a wax, don't bother with them they last about a week.

You dont need to spend much on a wax: I like Poorboys and Simoniz I have heard good stuff about Turtlewax ICE, its a good idea to wax every couple of months after a wash, or when you notice the wax has gone.

For the clay bar I recommend the Meguiar's kit when claying and use loads of quick detailer as it's easy to scratch/mar your car with a clay bar. But as you are only doing a small area not a whole car you should be fine if you keep the clay warm use lots of detailer.

Look at /r/autodetailing for some tips

I apologize if i'm telling you stuff you already know.
Good luck.

Metal mesh... that's different... never seen one like that. Is there any stamp or marking on the chair? The color tells me it's from the mid-60s, maybe later, but closer to 1965 if I had to guess.

As for the legs, I'd try a gentle buffing with 0000 (superfine) steel wool. It wil remove the rust without scratching the metal. After that's done, you can try a non-abrasive metal polish to give it a light shine. My favorite is a treated cotton wadding polish called "Nevr Dull." It's been around a long time. Rub the metal down with it, remove the excess polish with a clean cloth, and then gently wash the metal with a damp, soapy sponge and dry it.

Good luck! Nice find!

This isn't a way to prevent them, but it is the best method I have found so far to removing them. Fresh and old bugs.

I live in Oregon and the bugs are horrible here. I have always had an issue with removing them because they get stuck on there pretty damn well. I did a bunch of looking stuff up online to find a good product that works because when I washed my truck last (one month ago) I didn't get a lot of bugs off. I purchased bugs n all and a mckees bug remover sponge, and wow was I impressed. I sprayed it on and let it sit for a minute and used the sponge and it removed everything really easy. Old and fresh bugs! I used it on the bumper, hood, grill, chrome, license plate, and window.

bugs n all

mckee bug scrubber

I wouldn't buy that if I were you.

Check out the ReviewMeta score on those reviews.

For long term paint protection you need to prep the paint with a clay cleaner to get everything off the clearcoat. Once you do that you'll want to use a paint sealer, I'm partial to the Klasse line of products as they have performed the best over time in my experience, have been around for a very long time, and have a great reputation. That being said, there are others that are likely just as good.

The paint sealer will protect your paint from bird droppings, tar, or anything else that will normally pit the clear coat without some sort of protection. It'll help you keep the paint clean as well but the best thing about it is you only need to apply it like once or twice max a year.

If you want to make it really pop you can add a carnuba wax of your choice on top of the Klasse and it looks pretty ridiculous.

Go check out the /r/AutoDetailing to learn more than you'll ever want to know about protecting that paint.

Mine get tons of carbon buildup as well (2013 R60). I have black tips so it's not obvious, but it's definitely there.

Cleaning tips: Get the following items:

• A long, thin wheel brush like this: https://www.amazon.com/Household-Cleaning-Multi-purpose-Motorcycle-Bathroom/dp/B071RYMKVP
  
• Some cheap microfiber towels.
  
• a PowerBall Mini or PowerCone (I like the cone better): https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05146-PowerCone-Metal-Polishing/dp/B001MXTOKQ
  
• Decent all-purpose cleaner like Simple Green
  
• Decent wheel and tire cleaner. I like Meguiar's Hot Rims myself: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G9524-Rims-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B0009IQXM2
  
• Optional: Chrome & aluminum polish: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-California-Gold-Chrome-Polish/dp/B006VU37AS
  
  Start by spraying the wheel cleaner in and around the tip. Let it sit for a minute then agitate with the wheel brush. Spray some water in there after agitation to rinse the crud out. Follow it up with a spray of Simple Green. Place the microfiber towel around the wheel brush and agitate again. This'll get the little bits that the stiff brush left behind. Rinse again.
  
  Then attach the powercone to your drill. dunk the powercone into soapy water. Put it inside the tip and spin it. This gets the inside pretty darn clean.
  
  You can clean the outside with the same products. It typically doesn't need it as bad and a simple wipedown with simple green and a microfiber is usually good enough. You can always shine it up with the chrome polish as well, if it needs it.
  

I did that swipe test because in the video it said to wait about 5 minutes but it seemed to be ready instantly, which made me think it dried too quickly.
I did clean the wipers, was surprised how filthy they were haha.

The wax I used is this :

Simoniz SIM0010A 150g Simoniz Original Carnauba Wax
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003SEXTYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JQGFzbBQCH4YA

Reading the back of the tin it says not to use on glass, lol. But I just assumed any carnauba based wax would be fine if you followed the proper steps.

Maybe try something like Nevr-Dull? I've used it on a bunch of metal surfaces ranging from brass to steel and it generally delivers good results.

Nice Rhino, btw. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine! :)

Get a Megs105 or Ultimate Polish (since its a beater I expect the paint is in need of compounding) $10

If you don't want to compound maybe a wax cleaner, its milder, cheaper and you could probably 1-step your car with it but don't put your expectations high because it only removes mild oxidation and some swirls. $7

If you need a backing plate, go get a 5 inch one $10, you need it

Get an CCS Orange Pad from lake (8-10)

Meguires Gold Class Wax on Target/walmart/amazon $10

I almost forgot but you need to clay before you start the magic and the cheapest one and most awarding one I know is this that's like $11.

Invest a few more dollars and if you want your money back you could always clean your friends car for a few bucks.

Since I'm kind of known for keeping my car clean, I'll share what I have learned over my journey. Let me preface this by saying I live in a condo with a shared underground garage, just like most apartments. Due to this, I have no hose access, unless I go to the self car wash spots.

My favorite product by far is Chemical Guys EcoSmart waterless wash.

For glass, I love Stoner Invisible Glass.

For wheels, I'm a big fan of Chemical Guys Diablo Gel.

For exhaust tips, Mother's Chrome Polish.

This next one may not be for everyone, but I like it. Stoner Trim Shine.

Those are my highlights. The other products I use are pretty generic.

Awesome! Thanks for the research. I too like to research, so inspired by and based on your research, I calculated the price per gram/ounce for each of these:


$0.33/g $9.44/oz AutoGlym Hi Def $49.96 for 150g / 5.29oz

$0.32/g $9.23/oz AutoGyym HDWAXUS High Definition Wax $48.92 for 150g / 5.3oz

$0.09/g $2.67/oz Collinite 915 Marque D'Elegance $31.99 for 340.19g / 12oz

$0.07/g $2.74/oz Nattys White & Blue both $21.95 for 226.80g / 8oz

$0.41/g $11.82/oz RaceGlaze 55 $130.00 for 311.85g / 11oz


$8.73/milliliter Swissvax Divine $3490/400ml

$4.00/milliliter Mystery $799.00/200ml

$4.00/milliliter BoS and Concourso $799.00/200ml


$0.46/g $12.97/oz Victoria Concours $38.90 for 85g / 3oz

$3.67/g $104.09/oz Zymol Vintage $2290.00 for 623.69g / 22oz "with unlimited refills for life"

$0.45/g $12.63/oz Glasur $101.00 for 226.8g / 8oz)

The Swissvax ones list the volume, not weight.


This list is for the price per gram/ounce of each wax. Price per weight is not necessarily accurate to compare waxes because some might be lighter or heavier than others and while having the same coverage and protection. Some include instructions stating to apply it as thin as possible and some state to apply two to three layers for deeper gloss.


An accurate price comparison would be the price per area covered and protected per layer and/or per depth of gloss and/or per amount of protection (perhaps quantifiable by the duration it lasts). All of these seem to be something that would take significant time, expertise, and possibly equipment to determine. I looked at the descriptions only briefly and did not see manufacturer estimates for how much area the waxes would cover at all, let alone how much area it would cover at the recommended thickness to last a specified amount of time. It would be nice if we had an industry standard for this.


Reference:

1g = 0.0353oz

1oz = 28.3495g

Are you going to be doing interior windows? Because tint is on the inside.

I think you should get a few of these Hand Pump Sprayers. Even something like this chemical sprayer. Use it for dedicated tire cleaner like Sonax. Then another one for spray wax or quick detailer. And maybe another for bug remover. I'd consider a good degreaser or heavy soap and apply with chemical sprayer, let it sit for a few, and then do your handwash.

You don't want to be pulling a trigger with your hand for every panel. Also, consider a brush for the tire gel, and then wipe/dab it down to decrease the ghetto shine and sling. But then again, you don't to have to apply and then go back around and matte it down. So less in the first place should be best.

I've used Chemical Guys P40 Detailer Quick Detailer and UV Protectant and even diluted it down a bit to make it last forever.

Don't forget to dry the door jams. And consider picking up some detailing brushes for the emblems and around ugly cracks or crevasses.

I bet, that van looks like an old man's baby to me. Its in great shape.

This is what i use, it's not a ceramic wax but it's good enough (and cheap at walmart)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07NW9X6BX/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the best rated stuff on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Shine-Armor-Fortify-Quick-Coat/dp/B07LHB3B2Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=ceramic+wax&qid=1571072383&sr=8-2

Exact same deal on my red NA. Had a car bra on for who knows how long, though mine is more of an even fade than this kinda splotchy deal.

I've heard Zymol works wonders restoring red Miata paint. I just ordered some today and I'm going to try it out in the next few days. I can let ya know how it goes.

Luckily the original paint is a single stage enamel so apparently you can buff the shit out of it to bring it back to life. So if Zymol doesn't work, a good detailing shop can probably get it looking great again without having to repaint.

Quality isn't awesome, as I'm shooting with my iPhone. Nonetheless, here's a couple more:

Close-up 1

Close-up 2

Maybe I could make them look a little better with some editing, but I'm not well versed in that regard. The second shot came out pretty good though!

Edit: The wax I used was Poorboys Blue Natty, for anyone interested.

I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.

• 2 Home Depot buckets with grit guards, microfiber cloths & wash mitt, waffle drying cloth
  
• soap -> [Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine](https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=pd_sim_263_2? (you can u_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D8DR0AO&pd_rd_r=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8&pd_rd_w=L1qpT&pd_rd_wg=YSRMs&psc=1&refRID=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8) (I dilute this and use it as the "clay" lubricant as well)
  
• "clay" -> Nanoskin Autoscrub (works well enough, more cost effective than real clay)
  
• seal -> Chemical Guys Jet Seal
  
• wax -> Meguiar's
  
  
  

Nanoskin as in the "clay" replacement? If you're going to use that with Glide or hydroshock, or whatever they recommend to use as a lubricant, you're going to want to either do IPA wipedown or use Eraser. It would suck to skimp out on a $21 product that will do multiple cars, and then have your CQ not bond to the paint because of the Nanoskin lube residue. I've used it before and I'm pretty sure it can be used as a drying aide because it has hydrophobic qualities.

I only used about 1/3rd of my 50ml CQUK kit, it's definitely enough to do 2 cars, depending what Lexus your finacee is driving. If it's something like an RX you might not have enough to do your WRX also.

WRB should be easy to see the product flash. All of my high spots were near the hood, where it meets the bumper, so that might be a problem area for you to concentrate on applying evenly, and buffing off entirely.

I've order this the past 3 times. I get the gallon for about $26, and it lasts quite a long time. I do a quick dry, then spray down half my car, then super dry it completely from there.

It's cheap, plentiful, and smells like bubblegum. Anything, after the weekly wash is better than nothing. I think it helps with the paint feeling smoother after, instead of just a simple dry.

Chemical Guys Amazon Link $26.95. And I keep a few older spray wax bottles, and this becomes part of my weekly routine.

Last I purchased this was in July. Ymmv.

If you like your car, buy this stuff. So easy to use and returns great results.

https://www.amazon.com/Fw1-Cleaning-Waterless-Wash-Carnauba/dp/B009UZ1TE2

Congrats , welcome to the Dark Grey Metallic club. I recommend this product to keep the paint prestine https://www.amazon.com/Shine-Armor-Fortify-Quick-Coat/dp/B07LHB3B2Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=ceramic+coat&qid=1564160157&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFSOU9SQTVCUktYWUgmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxNjY4MTFNMEVRMlRLV05VOUYmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMTAzMDYyNDJQQUtNRk1PWFpPWkEmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Because of the Prime Day deals I decided to pick up a few different products without knowing too much. I bought: Optimum No Rinse, Mothers Clay Bar System, Microfiber Clothes, Liquid Wax Paint Sealant, and Hybrid Wax.

My quick understanding is that the recommended process is: wash > clay > wash > wax. In terms of these products, does that mean:

ONR wash > Mothers Clay (should I use their lube or just the ONR water?) > ONR wash > Liquid Wax > Hybrid Wax

Just want to make sure I follow the right order so I can start to keep my car in good shape. How often should I clay? What about the sealant and the wax?

Thanks!

Detailing noob looking to give my truck some TLC. Would a sealant like this be used instead of a wax? I recently washed it, then clay bar'd it. After the clay, I used this buffer to wax it with chem guys butter wet wax

After reading this popular thread my suspisions that the wax was over-priced and over-smelly were confirmed and have been looking for better options.

Thanks for your feedback - I've read the wikki but I like interaction on these kinds of questions

Had the same issue recently with bugs. Before and after here. My brother who's big in to detailing turned me onto a bug sponge. It won't harm your paint, pretty amazing stuff.

For those interested in prices per quantity, I did some hunting for you.

AutoGlym Hi Def $49.96/150g

Collinite 915 Marque D'Elegance $31.99/12oz

Nattys White & Blue both $21.95 /8oz.

RaceGlaze 55 $130.00/11oz

Swissvax Divine $3490/400ml, Mystery $799.00/200ml, BoS and Concourso $799.00/200ml

Victoria Concours $38.00/200g

Zymol Vintage $2290.00/?? and Glasur $101.00/11.2oz

CarGuys Liquid Wax. It works pretty well, better than I expected when I bought it. I’ve got to find a heated parking garage to wax it again for the winter.

You should use some pure carnauba wax on the boards. Most people recommend Mothers. https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483199201&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+pure+carnauba+wax

I got my board from Muzzies, and Murray suggested that I use https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6. It's a blend, and he finds it works best on his surface.

The best thing I can recommend is this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Fw1-Cleaning-Waterless-Wash-Carnauba/dp/B009UZ1TE2

It shows that it is for cars but I use that stuff on the bike all the time. No water needed. It actually works phenomenally. It gets off anything that is on the bike. I know I probably sound like I work for them but that is just because i'm excited to answer your question.

That's a Honda Pilot isn't it? Does your finger nail catch when you drag it across the scratch? If so, not all is lost and you can definitely remove the "white-ness" of the scratches.

The best way is to use a very light cut polish with a mildly aggressive pad on a rotary buffer, followed by a glaze and a soft pad, then wax. Assuming you don't have any of those things, I would head to your local auto parts store and pick up something like this and this followed by this

-Trackside Front/Rear stands for easy cleaning

• Degreaser
  
• Chain Brush
  
• Chain Lube
  
• Waterless Wash/Wax
  
• Wheel Cleaner
  
• Wheel Brush
  
  I clean and lube the chain about every 500 miles.
  Never pressure wash your electrical components (I just don’t pressure wash at all). Other than that, just changing the oil per the schedule and making sure everything runs fine.

Not sure how "safe" it is, but when I polished the chrome on my old set I used this stuff and it seemed to do the job pretty well.

Wash Wax All. This stuff is freaking amazing! Used on airplanes. I used this on my Panhead and it looks great! I will never need anything else.

Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax 16... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TH3FXK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used Meguiar's Carnauba Wax. First time doing it myself too.
How do you like your ILX so far? Seems to get a lot of hate here and /r/cars, but I love it

I'm planning a full detail of my car and have a few questions.

1. I'd like to strip all wax off and anything the dealership put on it first. I've heard mixed sources about uses dish soap to do this. So is it ok to would something like this work better?
   
2. I'm still confused on the order of things. I'm assuming I'd strip the car of wax and stuff first using whatever, regular wash, clay bar, then when do I use wax vs sealant? Then polish after all that? or do I polish before wax/seal?

Wash and Wax the plane with whatever, people make a big deal and spend way to much money on this stuff. I bought the Wash Wax Airplane Wash - doesn't work any better than dish soap ....

If you want to buff and polish the paint then use a good product like Jet Seal with a random buffer. Even this stuff is expensive for what it is ...

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_118_16-Anti-Corrosion-Protectant/dp/B001TFE38A/
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_201_16-Butter-Wet/dp/B00FALVU8A/

Then buy a $4 bottle of turtle wax wax and dry - after every flight spray and wipe down all the leading edges and bug laden surfaces.

Once a coat of wax is on there - microfiber cloth and turtle wax will take all the bug and gunk off in a single wipe with minimal pressure ... It will work on oil spray from prop seals too

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-9-1-Step-Dry/dp/B0007TV6M0/


Save the $ for 100LL

There is a product call never dull, for any chrome and steel.

https://www.amazon.ca/Nevr-Dull-L-5-Ounce/dp/B00097CRY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?adgrpid=62792834802&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImszGzczN4wIVzZ-zCh1crgm3EAAYASAAEgLc7_D_BwE&hvadid=310058773424&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1002604&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6306287711392518763&hvtargid=kwd-299414274150&hydadcr=22536_10308499&keywords=never-dull&qid=1563972779&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For black plastic use soft soap.

Hope i help you.

What!? Are you referring to this ONR stuff? http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html

I got some stuff called FW1, I don't particularly care for it. It seemed like it attracted a ton of dust, but I haven't tried it on the car with the fresh wax and all that.

link to FW1 : http://www.amazon.com/Fw1-Cleaning-Waterless-Wash-Carnauba/dp/B009UZ1TE2

I wouldn’t use the bottle, use the pure paste wax. This is the one some builders recommend. I didn’t realize it was that expensive:

Mothers 05550 California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax Paste (Ultimate Wax System, Step 3) - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t6Q3DbSNQ7CHK

I went cheaper; picked up Johnson paste wax for wood at Home Depot. I was 25% the cost. I’m unsure how much better mothers would be over this. This wax did make a big difference in play after a single application. Do the pucks and board.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SC-Johnson-1-lb-Fine-Wood-Paste-Wax-00203/100154748

3M PerfectIt glaze will take most of those out as if they were never there.

I use this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MSWU6 ... note that this is for dark cars, as is appropriate for the pictured car.

You can just hand-rub it and get most of it out, or if you have a buffer, get the waffle pad but be careful because it's easy to burn through paint.

Be aware that the glaze will remove any wax that is there, so you will need to wax again. I suggest Zymol Carbon.

You can try simply waxing the surface of the board and adding pads to the bottoms of the strikers.

I use Mother's pure carnauba wax (amazon), same as on my crokinole board. The maker of Muzzie's crokinole boards recommends Turtle Wax super hard shell paste wax instead (amazon).

1. Rub a small amount on the board (do only a quarter of the board at a time otherwise the wax will harden on the surface in patches while you do other sections).
   
2. Use a buffing/microfiber cloth to spread the wax evenly in circles. The surface will become a little cloudy.
   
3. Important: after the whole board is waxed wait at least 20 minutes for the wax to cure.
   
4. Use a different side of the cloth to buff the wax off. Note that this whole process seems to work best in hotter temperatures.
   
   Under the strikers I put teflon stickers (amazon). Other people seem to have good results with Scotch felt pads instead (amazon).
   
   I did this to a new-ish board with two coats of wax and the striker movement was so slick, the game was difficult to play until the surface got some wear. The results won't be so dramatic with a well-worn board, but it goes to show that a bit of waxing will make a difference.

I think I understand what you're trying to ask. My suggestion is to get Meguiar's cleaner wax http://amzn.to/21qSmhK . I'm assuming you're a novice in detailing. This product is perfect for that maintenance job of just lightly polishing the surface.

I'm just going to wax the car for some minimal protection from bugs, etc. . I ordered this wax from car guys, based on the positive Amazon reviews:

https://smile.amazon.com/CarGuys-Liquid-Wax-Ultimate-Protection/dp/B01FTT92HS

Anyone have experience with a 'long term' wax on their Tesla?

Nevr Dull cleaned that right up for me. Also works great on the bumpers.

Is it okay to just keep piling layers upon layers of wax on the car? I waxed my car with this about 2 or 3 weeks ago but I want to give this carnauba wax a try. It'll be fine if I were to wash my car next week and apply that wax on even though the Meguair's wax was applied not even a month ago, right?

I personally use this and swear by it. Best waterless wash ever.

Personally, I'd be too lazy to take on the job of stripping the clear coat or varnish of an aluminum frame, and then having to polish it. Instead I'd just use auto products like a liquid cleaner/wax:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Cleaner-Wax-Liquid-Protects/dp/B0002NYE5M/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=meguiars+cleaner+wax&qid=1557325079&s=automotive&sr=1-7

It cleans off most crap, hides fine scratches, and overall does an awesome job of making bikes finishes look newer.

You're so close!

The subreddit you want is /r/autodetailing

That said, a product from 3M called "Swirl Remover" is just strong enough to cut water stains and absolutely will not hurt your paint.

You'll need to re-wax the car after using this product. It will remove wax along with the water stains.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-PERFECT-IT-SWIRL-RMVR-DARK-COLOR/dp/B0002MSWU6

My dad swears by Mother's Carnauba Cleaner Wax, it's nice because it also works as a cleaner and polisher as well as a wax, but stay away from plastics with it.

SECTION | CONTENT

--|:--
Title | How to Remove Paint Scuffs On Your Car (Paint Transfer)
Description | How to remove paint scuffs from your car. Learn how to safely remove paint transfer from your car's paintwork without causing any damage to the paint underneath. Foam Abrasive: http://amzn.to/1r4wgDj Dash Camera I use: http://amzn.to/22BezJu WD40: http://amzn.to/1X1Expk Clay Bar: http://amzn.to/1XUcwiN Wax I recommend: http://amzn.to/1XUdviU Compound: http://amzn.to/1TYJpIw Remove Scratches from Wheels: https://youtu.be/9WQiqYlpxoY?list=PLDD611CFB36FC65F2 Top 10 Car Cleaning Mistakes: https:/...
Length | 0:06:05






****

^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

Maybe my secret Santa got me some ;)

This is more urgent though. I just bought some Butter wet wax after watching a Chemical Guys video on this subject.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FALVU8A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I bought and used the Zymol recently and was rather pleased. I haven't put anything on after that yet though.

This is the exact wax I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O

You just want to make sure and get pure carnauba wax. Nothing with cleaners or abrasive elements in it.

Is it this stuff? If so, how are you applying it? Cleaner waxes are not meant to just wipe on and wipe off. You have to work them in then let them haze - because they're not just a pure wax. They're meant to remove oxidation/very light marring and leave protection behind.

Where are you getting your microfiber from?

Mothers 05500 California Gold Brazilian Carnauba Cleaner Wax Paste - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U1TVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7JoTDbPRSRBJ9

Is this what you got?

Tape off the entire fretboard with masking tape so only the frets are showing. It's also a good idea to tape off the neck pickups so the dust doesn't go to the pickup magnets. I would also tape off the sides of the neck to be extra careful in-case you accidentally scratch it with sand paper.

Then use sand paper to polish the frets. I work my way up 400, 600, 1000, 2000 grit. You only want to gently sand the surface to take off any scratches from the wound strings or fret rust.

You might have to use a paper towel to wipe off the metal dust in between.

After 2000 grit the frets will be very smooth but dull. Then I finish off with Nevr-Dull metal polishing compound. It takes off any remaining metal dust and brings it to a shine.

https://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Dull-NEVER-DULL-POLISH/dp/B00097CRY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478898952&sr=8-1&keywords=never-dull+metal+polish

I got this method from Davey4557 on youtube. He repairs guitars for a living. He also doesn't recommend using steel wool on your guitar, search for steel wool to find out why.

https://www.youtube.com/user/davey4557

As long as you tape off the fretboard, are gentle, and patient I don't think you could screw it up using this method.

here you go!

I used this, and not much else... BUT, it did take two goings over to make it look that blue.

which speed wax do people prefer? meguirs or lucas


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT5JVQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYE5M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Somebody nicked your door with something red. Not a big deal. You should be able to buff it out with a cleaner wax and a wax applicator.

Is this the wax you use?

Jescar Power Lock Polymer Sealant + Collinite 845

the same as ?

CG Butter Wet Wax + CG JetSeal?

It's a Meguiar's G18211 Ultimate Paste Wax.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18211-Ultimate-Paste-Wax/dp/B004HCS4PK/ref=pd_lpo_263_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M7805T52TAJVD12A5CAY

I have used the car wash, it does a good job. Sometimes you need to add a little more than they rec if its got stuck on stuff. The wax is amazing in my opinion.

It also cleans as it goes and it smells great. I have the quick detailer for spot cleaning but I find it to be a bit of a pain top wipe off evenly.

WARNING: The post above is full of referral links.

Here's a copy with all of OP's referral links removed:

CART

• WEN 7300 Utility Cart
  
• Tornado Hooks of Various Sizes
  
• Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Washer
  
• Basic Wood Screws
  
  
  PRODUCTS
  
  
• CG Best Selling Products Kit
  
• CG Honey Dew Snow Foam
  
• CG Butter Wet Wax
  
• CG Diablo Wheel Gel
  
• CG V7 Hybrid Quick Detailer
  
• CG Jet Seal
  
• CG VRP Dressing
  
• CG Bug and Tar Remover
  
• CG Glossworkx Glaze
  
• CarPro Iron X
  
• Shine Society Glass Cleaner
  
• Black Mamba Black Gloves
  
• Zwipes Waffle Weave Towel
  
• 50 Pack of Microfiber Towels
  
• Detailers Brush
  
• Wheel Brush
  
• Viking Wheel Brush
  
  EQUIPMENT
  
  
• Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Washer
  
• Sun Joe Pressure Washer Extension Cord
  
• MATCC Snow Foamer
  
• Extension Cord 50ft
  
• TORQ Orbital Polisher
  
  
  

No. That's a Cleaner Wax. You want the wax without the cleaner. It says Step 3 on the car and has a blue band on it. https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=asc_df_B0002U2V1O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312279483767&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14297052339886462749&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006600&hvtargid=pla-422424326058&psc=1

Very basic question, but has anybody ever compared the two most common paste waxes?

Mother's California Gold Carnauba vs. Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus

I'm going to use the Mother's first, but I don't feel like buying the other until I totally use up the first can.

It was Meguires Gold. It was my first time using it, I think I put it on a little too thick, it was a pain to get off. But it turned out well.

Amazon reviews are worthless when it comes to enthusiast products; you'll see extremely high reviews for some of the lowest quality stuff because the yardstick is essentially dish soap and a kitchen sponge. As for whether Shine Armor is legit.....Review Meta flags a full 50% of their reviews as suspect. Still a high rating without it? Yeah, but I wouldn't put a premium on them. Might tell you what you need to know about a company that needs to pay for at least 50% of their reviews though.

https://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Dull-NEVER-DULL-POLISH/dp/B00097CRY6

This shit right here. Wear gloves.

First of all, lay off the racism. Second, that is spray paint. Try using cleaning wax and see if that takes it off.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-A1216-Cleaner-Wax-Liquid/dp/B0002NYE5M

hey! sorry for the crazy long delay in responding. lost access at work, and since i do IT, i just never feel like sitting down at home.

I have a hilinski board. bought it early last year. he recommended pure carnuba, so i picked up a can of the mothers carnuba wax (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O)

i generally put on a coat, wait 15 or so min then wipe it off. i have a feeling i'm applying it too heavy, but i don't know, it just never slides right. John said yours were crazy fast, and thats obviously what i want.

next week, right?